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Old 07-12-2022, 07:14 PM   #1
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Drives: 2012 Yaris SE
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1
2012 Yaris SE Hatchback Instrument Cluster diode stuck on

Hey everyone.

So, long story short, I forgot to disconnect my battery when I was swapping out my alternator, I know really really stupid . I was in a hurry and just didn't do it. Lesson learned.

So here is what is going on.

When I went to pop off the little grey cap that Toyota puts on the charging nut location, I was using a screwdriver and some how shorted and or arc'd power back through the positive side of the power system because it blew the 120A Fuse on the fuselink. I replaced the Fuse with the correct one for my model Yaris.

Well, something was causing my alternator to constantly get voltage even when the car was not on. It was hot to the touch just sitting there not running. I decided to cut the alternator harness and re-solder the 4 wires to a new harness. I used the correct flux, and solder, and heat-shrunk them for water and oxidation protection.

At this point my battery light is not on in the cluster.

I take it to toyota to have them diagnose why the alternator is hot, and they said one of the pins was in the wrong spot on the harness connection end. Ok, sure, maybe it was, I can't tell for certain. I still don't think it was though. . Toyota said that the voltage regulator wasn't working because it not putting out the correct voltage range. They put on a "re-manufactured" one, swapped the pins to the correct spots in the harness connector, and off I went back home.

I wake up the next day, and my battery light was on. Hmm, ok. It wasn't on for the 12 minute drive back home, but came on next morning. sigh.

I took it back to them, several times no less, and they have managed to diagnose the battery light diode in the "combination meter" aka instrument cluster as "shorted" because it doesn't come on full brightness, and it doesn't go off.

Can I repair this? My only alternative is to spend $310 on a new cluster, and then labor for them to program it with Techstream software.

Can I just replace or re-solder a new diode on the board?

Suggestions please? Thanks.
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