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Old 08-15-2009, 01:49 PM   #19
matthewboii
 
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Well i will be going in next Saturday, because im at 27k and really at this point NOTHING should be wrong with my car its still brand new and i take WONDERFUL care of it, so i will post what the verdict is.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by matthewboii View Post
Well i will be going in next Saturday, because im at 27k and really at this point NOTHING should be wrong with my car its still brand new and i take WONDERFUL care of it, so i will post what the verdict is.
Can you make some kind of audio recording of this or a video of the problem?
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:47 PM   #21
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True, and they might start pointing fingers at your DC Header and try to charge you to take a look at the problem overall ~_~.... they'll bust me for my Fujita CAI :P

I'll let you know IF i get this problem again..i see corrosion building up again on the terminals~~~

EDIT: Thanks Matthewboii, update us next Saturday...it will be of great help ^_^
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:08 AM   #22
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they'll have to prove one of my installed parts caused the problem which is impossible because this happened more times when the car was completely stock.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:23 AM   #23
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Yeah, but they'll still be persistent about the bolt on mods on our cars...service advisers are just lame like that in California.... :(

Maybe replace the battery terminals w/ new ones? If it did it when it was stock, mine did it before i had CAI and under drive pulleys....

I'll wait for matthewboii's response back to this..
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:31 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talnlnky View Post
If you have a manual and you don't fully press down the clutch sometimes it'll stutter cause you are riding the fence so to speak.

sounds like battery or alt not charging properly.

just wanted to quote above and point out that the inability to start without clutch on OUR standard transmission is purely due to a switch that is mounted on the top of the clutch pedal. It is on or off, allowing an instant signal to be transmitted to the ECU to crank, no in between or "riding the fence" due to that safety feature.

I know this because I do not press the clutch pedal while starting the car, ever. I have removed this switch and soldered the wires together for a remote starter.

I would however like to see if the OP ever got this resolved.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:43 AM   #25
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Forgot to add, when this problem occurred A LOT, i had the battery checked and the mechanic (3rd party) said the battery is charging. but it could be the alternator not charging like you said Alex... would the underdrive alternator pulley have something to do w/ this??
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kioshi View Post
Forgot to add, when this problem occurred A LOT, i had the battery checked and the mechanic (3rd party) said the battery is charging. but it could be the alternator not charging like you said Alex... would the underdrive alternator pulley have something to do w/ this??
if it is the underdrive pulley, then it would be the first case of this that i have heard of. It is unlikely, however if the alternator is just barely putting out enough amperage to match drain, then running any extra electronics would seem to have the opposite effect of a "trickle charge", more like "trickle drain". making the output of the battery weak at all times, but you would not notice during driving, because the alternator is supplying just barely enough to sustain ignition and battery amperage.

if that makes any sense. then the underdrive pulley would make it even harder to charge. but no, not directly caused by the pulley, just revealing a pre-existing issue.

the alternator and wires need to be checked; the alternator for output, and the cables to ground/battery checked for connection secure-ness and corrosion.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:52 AM   #27
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I hope its the latter. I have all 3 pulleys and dont want to take any out :( i will take a close-up pic of my terminals to further progress this thread for you guys...

My negative terminal is cracked very little, but can be replaced easily...might be a factor in this problem?
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:55 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kioshi View Post
I hope its the latter. I have all 3 pulleys and dont want to take any out :( i will take a close-up pic of my terminals to further progress this thread for you guys...

My negative terminal is cracked very little, but can be replaced easily...might be a factor in this problem?
cracked? I would replace it. I have had "secure" (not really tight) battery connections cause intermittent cranking, however when properly secured, (tight, not able to wiggle, move, etc.), the problem went away. not this car, fyi, but an issue I have seen regardless.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by AlexNet0 View Post
cracked? I would replace it. I have had "secure" (not really tight) battery connections cause intermittent cranking, however when properly secured, (tight, not able to wiggle, move, etc.), the problem went away. not this car, fyi, but an issue I have seen regardless.
The terminals can be as tight as you like, the real issue is whether or not they are clean. Not the outside - the inside that contacts the post on the battery. The only way to find out is to remove the terminal clamps from the battery and clean the insides of them, along with the battery posts, using sandpaper or a wire brush. Get both inside the clamps and outside the posts perfectly clean and shiny. If there are any deposits left, scrape them off with an old knife or something. Coat the surfaces with Vaseline and tighten the clamps. You might need new bolts and nuts.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:00 AM   #30
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The terminals can be as tight as you like, the real issue is whether or not they are clean. Not the outside - the inside that contacts the post on the battery. The only way to find out is to remove the terminal clamps from the battery and clean the insides of them, along with the battery posts, using sandpaper or a wire brush. Get both inside the clamps and outside the posts perfectly clean and shiny. If there are any deposits left, scrape them off with an old knife or something. Coat the surfaces with Vaseline and tighten the clamps. You might need new bolts and nuts.

Same issue I was getting at, just forgot to mention it, all about the contact.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:17 AM   #31
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yeah corossion on the battery will kill the battery faster draining voltage and amps overnight creating a weak start. Espcially if it only happens on a cold morning. Altenator is charging fine because you would have a battery light on.

Another possibility to hard start is carbon buildup inside the engine and manifold. Carbon absorbs the fuel and also gums up everything making it much harder to start. Especially if you are using low quality discount gas without any detergents to keep the engine clean then you probally do have a bit of buildup which is why it takes little longer to start the car.

Maybe time for a fuel system service.
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