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Old 07-01-2007, 11:04 AM   #1
staticorex
 
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Dyno again. F5air.

Well since my first dyno, stock, two weeks ago, I've installed a Fujita CAI. So why not? I got it dyno'd again.

About 5-7 pulls with the fog cap on and 4-5 with it off. A couple runs after pulling the battery for 30+ min to try and reset the ECU.

Results: Nothing. In fact a power loss on most of the pulls. It's running leaner now though. So more gas millage.

All in all I'm happy with it. A nice cosmetic upgrade and the sound is incredible for a 1.5l. I can't get over how nice it sounds compared to my other car- a 2.5l- and my friends' cars with the same intake. But hp gains? Well I wasn't expecting much from it anyway.

Just wondering where the 4whp is the F5 got. :)


Okay: edited per request. The second dyno run. I only printed the lowest and highest for comparison.








Here is the link to the first run, stock.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6338
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Last edited by staticorex; 07-02-2007 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 07-02-2007, 01:08 AM   #2
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There are a few things to keep in mind when dyno testing.

1. Before and after dynos should be done on the same day to keep the weather and humidity in check. Doing a dyno today and then going back in a couple weeks will change these conditions and can lead to inacurrate readings.

2. How does your area under the curve look? You should plot the before and after lines on the same page to look at the area under the curve. Peak numbers are over rated and don't mean as much as the behavior of the power and torque curve.

3. Did you use the same dyno? Was this dyno recalibrated or were the settings changed in any way during the two weeks that you were away? These can also change the readings.

4. etc. etc. etc.


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Old 07-02-2007, 04:25 AM   #3
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Please post the new one.
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YarisGuy View Post
There are a few things to keep in mind when dyno testing.

1. Before and after dynos should be done on the same day to keep the weather and humidity in check. Doing a dyno today and then going back in a couple weeks will change these conditions and can lead to inacurrate readings.

2. How does your area under the curve look? You should plot the before and after lines on the same page to look at the area under the curve. Peak numbers are over rated and don't mean as much as the behavior of the power and torque curve.

3. Did you use the same dyno? Was this dyno recalibrated or were the settings changed in any way during the two weeks that you were away? These can also change the readings.

4. etc. etc. etc.


.
Almost all dynos will automatically correct results based on weather conditions to ensure that results are accurate despite being taken on different days. You are right, though... the area under the curve will tell you if you have a faster car or not.
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Old 07-02-2007, 09:21 AM   #5
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All valid points Yarisguy. I realize the difference of hum/temp will affect it. Same dyno, wasn't modified. about 10 degrees cooler that day. I'll get the new one scanned in a bit.

UP THERE. :)
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Last edited by staticorex; 07-02-2007 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinoCharles View Post
Almost all dynos will automatically correct results based on weather conditions to ensure that results are accurate despite being taken on different days. You are right, though... the area under the curve will tell you if you have a faster car or not.
i'd still rather do a run, install the intake, and run it again twenty minutes later than do it a week later and rely on computer corrections. not saying it would be inaccurate data, but it just eliminates another variable. it's good practice.
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Old 07-02-2007, 01:19 PM   #7
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Also though the ECU has to have time to adjust. Just slapping it on just makes it run leaner until it corrects.
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:22 PM   #8
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it looks like there are less dipps in it compared to the first one, so id say its a more constant power=faster
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Old 07-02-2007, 08:45 PM   #9
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The graph layout is a bit different. So its hard to compare the curve,one is mph one is rpm.Check out the air/fuel ratio though.

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Old 07-02-2007, 09:24 PM   #10
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going leaner =

watch how low that AFR goes... there is only so much correction in the stock ecm... Not worth running lean IMHO, even if it gives you 1 or 2 more MPG.

Even if it is lean though, the ECM will eventually correct the AFR to as close to the stock setpoint as it possibly can, negating any milleage increase you may have gained. Also keep in mind, that if you have a cool or cold morning and the ECM calls for more fuel because of the denser air, you wont be getting it = even more lean = burned pistons!!!

Just my 2¢

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Old 07-02-2007, 09:40 PM   #11
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If you notice the graph actualy shows a richer A/F. The smaller the number the richer. The A/F on the cold air intake run is actualy very good. Stock is very lean. On N/A car you typicaly want it around ~12.5-13.5,on a F/I car you want to run it even richer to be safe ~11.5-12.5

When you go to rich you start to wash the oil off the piston rings,when you go too lean stuff gets hot,butts rings together and cracks piston tops or flat out burns a hole right through the top.
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:28 PM   #12
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on a perfect day(whatever that is) you would want your air-fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. this will give you the best burn; in terms of smog, performance and fuel comsumption as a total.

heres more info if needed.air-fuel ratio
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead6T5 View Post
If you notice the graph actualy shows a richer A/F. The smaller the number the richer. The A/F on the cold air intake run is actualy very good. Stock is very lean. On N/A car you typicaly want it around ~12.5-13.5,on a F/I car you want to run it even richer to be safe ~11.5-12.5

When you go to rich you start to wash the oil off the piston rings,when you go too lean stuff gets hot,butts rings together and cracks piston tops or flat out burns a hole right through the top.


good answer.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:10 AM   #14
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hahaha, thanks ;)

I understand how it works (see signature ;)) but I couldnt read the dyno sheet on my work computer.

All I saw was that one of the previous posts said the mixture went leaner.

My bad ;) I stand by what I said though, even if it didnt apply to the situation :D

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Old 07-03-2007, 02:07 AM   #15
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hahaha, thanks ;)

I understand how it works (see signature ;)) but I couldnt read the dyno sheet on my work computer.

All I saw was that one of the previous posts said the mixture went leaner.

My bad ;) I stand by what I said though, even if it didnt apply to the situation :D

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Old 07-03-2007, 10:14 AM   #16
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Thanks for putting the two next to each other and adding your 2cents. Much appreciated. I doubt my car will run too lean or rich by adding the CAI though, so I feel I'm safe. :)
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:48 PM   #17
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Thanks for putting the two next to each other and adding your 2cents. Much appreciated. I doubt my car will run too lean or rich by adding the CAI though, so I feel I'm safe. :)
Looks perfect to me,the dotted line on the a/f graph is the target ratio.
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