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Old 11-15-2020, 09:55 PM   #55
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hamilton - New Zealand
Posts: 41
A little update. We've started on the exhaust and found that the megan Racing headers I had put on the car some 5+ years ago have not aged well. Lots of cracks in the runners and welds, so now I'm either in the market for a new set of headers, or failing that maybe we can use the main flange and rebuild the manifold.
If anyone has a line on a decent exhaust manifold that's going to last more than a few years I'm all ears. All the old shops I used for parts in the past seem to have closed (mirco image etc)

Really hoping to get something underway before christmas.
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Old 11-17-2020, 03:35 PM   #56
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Location: Hamilton - New Zealand
Posts: 41
Here's what the old headers look like



In the interest of getting something sorted before the end of the year I've ordered a new set of "OBX" headers from ebay which look like they rolled off the same assembly line as these.

One other thing I noticed is that the port alignment with these headers was TERRIBLE. approx 5-6mm out at one end of the flange, so that won't have been helping.
Will be checking the alignment on the new set before we install them.

ETA Dec 6-30th. Gotta love living at the bottom of the world (hey well.. least we don't have any Covid down here)
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Old 11-17-2020, 08:40 PM   #57
mannycheckers
 
Drives: 2009 Yaris 2dr Liftback
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Those headers look toast! Let me know what you think of the OBX headers. I have been looking for some aftermarket headers lately. Many people swear by DC Sports Headers.
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:52 AM   #58
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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one two miss a few... woopsiedaiseys now it's June.

Still.. some progress!

New headers arrived.


They're a banana



So off that went to the machine shop to get machined.
Meanwhile my tame mechanic has been practicing with the tig..


















hmm.. sexy..

Then came the intercooler issue. Turns out the "same side" intercooler was a little restrictive and dropped my boost from about 13psi to about 9..

So that's gone in the bin and I've got a straight through one. it's the same size, but just passes straight through.

So mounted and plumbed that up.







Had to replace the factory fan with a slim line one which fitted up nicely.



Then put it all back together.




with a little tweaking the bumper even went back on!

This bumper was pretty trashed so I decided not to care about the hole for the intercooler. I'll (probably) get a replacement at some stage and then get it cut out a little more nicely but for the meantime this is fine.



So with the new intercooler on, the boost was still sitting around 10-11psi, which is a little lower than I wanted. I guess just cooling the air makes it more dense/less boost. Given it was running about 15psi, with some rough calculations the intake temp could be as high as 170c it's reasonable to expect a significant pressure drop with air temps coming down to.. well.. lower. I have mounted an open element IAT sensor inside the manifold now, and on some lower boost runs (6-7psi) the intake temp didn't get above 30c, so .. that's good!
I have bene pretty hesitant to push it too much as with the new exhaust and intercooler the thing's running pretty lean (14:1 is the richest I was seeing on the wideband)

Anywyas, 10psi isn't enough so a quick trip to a friends garage to borrow a pulley puller...



The puller actually wouldn't clear the headlight support so we undid the engine mount and jacked the motor up so it would clear.

Off with the 3.0" and on with the 2.8" to give it a little more boost. Again being pretty dainty as it's leaning out, but I saw the boost hit about 13psi at higher revs so hopefully seeing a bit higher at full revs/throttle once the tune is fixed.

Speaking of I'm booked in with my tuner for a dyno session on tuesday, so will post results once that's done.

Hopefully the new exhaust, intercooler and extra sensors (AIT and wideband) have a net positive result.

Before I sold the car the first time it was makine about 90wkw, but falling way off at the top end due to hot air and tiny exhaust. I'd like to make 120wkw, but.. at the end of the day I'll get what I'm given. Also this is a different dyno (rolling road) and definitely seems to measure a little lower than my old tuner (I moved down country a few years ago).
That said the aim isn't to make a rocket ship, just a good fun little car which, as long as it doesn't grenade on the dyno, I can't see if failing to achieve.


Anyways. that's enough for now.
More after the dyno session. Only two sleeps to go!

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 06-13-2021 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:30 PM   #59
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Looks great! Shame about the banana plate on the manifold.
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Old 06-15-2021, 05:14 AM   #60
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Well.. dyno day is upon us.

A few minors but the car successfully did a dyno run.. just.. the one mind.


So that was a initial run with no real work in it, no VVTI timing.. so, I feel like there's plenty more on the table.

The second run however was a lot less successful.




It appears the crank pulley had come somewhat loose and sheared it's rollpin. (It didn't fall off, this was after we removed it)
So tomorrow is for a new pulley and pin, then back to the dyno hopefully friday to finish it off.

Needless to say I'm extremely happy with the power result. This dyno calculates the power at the crank but even so I think we're already at or above my stated goal of 120wkw and it feels like there's plenty left.
The fuel system seems to be holding up so far, so fingers crossed it makes it. my my calculations it should be good to at least 200whp.

More to come.

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 06-15-2021 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 06-16-2021, 04:53 PM   #61
CrankyOldMan
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Yep, went through a few pins and a few aluminum crank pulleys with the Blitz. The pin shearing off like that is intentional--don't replace it with a hardened/solid pin or you risk having to replace the whole crank next time.
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Old 06-18-2021, 12:35 AM   #62
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Well we acquiring a new crank pulley.. then realised it didn't have the pulley for the PS pump. *sigh* Fortunately you don't need PS for a dyno, so off it went!
The results after a dyno and road tune were a good bump in mid range power, but no more peak.


Still I'm very happy.. Very roughly speaking that's about 130wkw (compared to 90wkw before) so a fantastic gain.
It's possible the crank pulley we got was smaller (haven't measured them back to back yet) though as boost seems to have dropped with that on, (was 0.8 bar and now a bit below that at higher revs) so it's possible it'll pick up a little more boost with the right pulley fitted.
Also of note is the tuner didn't get any VVTI action. Something's not quite right and it's causing the VVTI tuning to just be.. weird. It's possible the ECU itself doesn't understand it, but also possible something isn't mechanically right. I'll look into it at some stage, but.. until then I'm pretty happy with the power.

There's a lot more to do on the car. Lots of general tidy up, a couple of little oil leaks. Some bushes are shot, the sway bar linkages we got don't fit properly, it needs an alignment, etc etc.
I've also picked up some bride reclinable seats and some rails but they need a bit of modding to fit them up.

So I guess more to come!
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Old 06-18-2021, 12:43 AM   #63
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Yep, went through a few pins and a few aluminum crank pulleys with the Blitz. The pin shearing off like that is intentional--don't replace it with a hardened/solid pin or you risk having to replace the whole crank next time.
Weird.. This has been together for 8 years making up to 1bar of boost (that's 14.5 barley corns for you americans) and it's been fine. I think it just came loose.

How much boost were you running through your blitz?
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Old 06-18-2021, 09:58 AM   #64
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwanttobeamole View Post
that's 14.5 barley corns for you americans
HA! I love Matt Parker!
Quote:
How much boost were you running through your blitz?
No more than 6 or 7 lbs, the Ogura compressor (TX-07) is only about 700cc/rev. The real damage was done by the magnetic clutch pulley turning on and off because there's no auto-tensioner to absorb the sudden change of tension on the belt. Here's a video of a high-performance car under acceleration that has one: https://youtu.be/5NnMuyifPA4
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Old 07-05-2021, 11:05 PM   #65
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Posts: 41
well... shit.



Clutch stopped disengaging the other day and I knew what was wrong.
Pulled the gearbox and found this horrible CI (Clutch Industries) piece of garbage in place of the lovely exedy I had installed ??? years ago.
It was of course in it's natural state of "in bits" so.. that's gotta go IN THE BIN!

New clutch collected today and flywheel machined, so hoping to get that back on this weekend, and then more whining!

Before the clutch desided to commit hari kari however the car drove very nicely. Still a little loud for my liking, but puts the power down well (except in the wet) and all the daily drive tuning is very smooth on account of the excellent tuner.

I still have all the tidy up to do, but will potter away at that in the not too distant future.
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Old 09-06-2021, 03:40 AM   #66
iwanttobeamole
 
Drives: 2000 Yaris 1NZ-FE Supercharged
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Posts: 41
Soooo.. Update time.

new clutch arrived and I've fitted that up, along with various seals etc. I got it all back together and then discovered the gearbox leaking from the passengers side drive shaft oil seal. I guess I must have knocked it when installing the drive shaft. a bit annoying but an easy fix.
Also it turns out the VVTI solenoid had taken a knock at some stage so the housing was moving under pressure and squirting oil down the front of the engine and all over the belts. So fixed that and I think that's all of the leaks sorted! I think..

So.. Story time. It's a stupid story, but this is what I learnt.
  1. With my original setup in the red vitz, I had the stock supercharger on the stock manifold with no bypass. That setup did 50000+ km's and was absolutely fine, but obviously with an ECU that was tuned to deal with it .. etc.
  2. When I had the supercharger off, I decided to block up the "silencer" holes in the supercharger to make it make more noise. This caused the supercharger to make a LOT more noise, and.. to be honest.. I hated it, specially as it was always making noise, as there was no bypass. At low revs it sounded like a gearbox bearing had shit the bed.
  3. To remedy this, I decided to reinstall the bypass valve, so it would no longer try and pressurise at low throttle/boost as the bypass would be open when not making boost. This .. worked to a degree, but the supercharger was still WAY too noisy ( there's various vids on my youtube with the supercharger being noisy)
  4. As it happened I had stuffed up the gasket sealant stuff (red gasket goo) when I first re-assembled my supercharger, so had to pull it off again. I decided then to remove the silencer bungs and quieten the thing down,

    4B. - side note, as it happens I think the intercooler setup actually lets out a bit more of the supercharger whine and now with that in place, but no silencer bungs in, the supercharger sounds perfect!

  5. WIth all that done, I was making just under 11psi, and that's how it was tuned making 200hp.
  6. Since then I had the thought.. I wonder if the bypass valve causes a boost leak.. I had done some research and that suggested that a bypass valve that didn't seal properly didn't matter, as the volume of air that was going into the engine was so great a small leak wouldn't make any notable difference. that said.. I had a feeling. I found the old plate I made years ago to block off the hole in the manifold where the bypass valve fits up, and managed to slip that under the bypass.
  7. Now I didn't use any sealant and it's pretty leaky as it is, (the idle is a bit inconsistent as a result but meh.. testing) but on testing it, I'm now making 12,5-13psi, and the car feels AWESOME!. A really noticeable increase in power, and that's with the plate being leaky.
So.. the TL:DR.
  • Don't block silencer holes on an M45. It might sound cool on a larger supercharger, but it sounds terrible on the m45.
  • If you're running an aftermarket ECU (and probably need larger injectors which you should have anyway) you can safely block off the bypass valve. This should net you a few extra PSI.
Since blocking it off my crank pulley came loose (again) and I'm now waiting on some replacement rollpins before I refit it and tighten the bejesus out of it while using a large amount of red loctite.
I do of course plan to pull the intake pipe and and bypass assembly off and seal it up properly. I'll probably leave it in place but just remove the vacuum line to the actuator for now.

Hoping to have that sorted out in the next few days anyways..

Here's a little vid of a 0-100..ish.. with the bypass blocked.

Last edited by iwanttobeamole; 09-06-2021 at 03:51 AM.
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