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Old 04-05-2014, 12:42 AM   #73
Drives: 2008 Liftback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 56
I (like everyone else) has the sagging hatch problem too. On a lowered car, I find it's quite easy to bump my head unless I take the time an manually push the hatch up and help it all the way to the stopping point.

Thanks to everyone for posting their findings, part numbers, and videos. All your work is appreciated.
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:45 PM   #74
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Drives: Decepticon - Ravage
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,464
I just installed 90# struts. Its much much better than the 5 year old stock ones. I have no idea if those went bad, or its always been like that, cuz of the extra weight in hatch from sound deadening material.

After playing with the hatch a bit, i want to go with 100#, because it still cant push the sound deadened hatch up smoothly without a little tug at the start (after pushing the lock button). I dont have the bounce that others have posted. Would the iQ hatch popper mod be a solution, the thrusters would push it first then the struts take over?

Check out my Build thread:
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Old 06-14-2020, 03:51 PM   #75
Drives: Yaris
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: France
Posts: 33
Necroing this thread - I changed the cylinders for new ones that were sold as compatible. Their ejection force didn't seem to be off the charts, at least for a few months the hatch opened *normally* again.
But yesterday, a weld point broke.

The part with the round nipple attaches to the cylinder, and it is welded in two points to the hatch, one of them broke and tore the sheet metal a little.

I'm looking for ways to fix that. I'll call the body shops around here tomorrow, but I fear they'll just tell me to replace the hatch, and that would be a waste.

Any ideas?
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:55 PM   #76
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Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,361

Look to the second half of thread where fix was achieved with rivnuts.
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