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Old 01-23-2021, 09:01 PM   #19
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 156
I am going to mark this thread and two others that are related as tentatively SOLVED, although I seem to have forgotten how to mark a thread as SOLVED. Thanks to everybody who replied to this query and in the two related threads.

I managed to get the back seat bench (lower part) out and to remove the black metal brace it is attached to. I used a hex simple ratchet wrench with an attachment for a hex nut and I also used the ratchet wrench with an E10 Torx attachment. These bolts were tight, but I hit the end of the ratchet wrench handle lightly and they loosened up.

I was quite concerned about stripping the bolts as I had been warned by another poster. So I tried to be careful not to be too aggressive. I only attempted to unloosen these bolts after putting PB Blaster penetrating oil on them and tapping the bolts lightly with a hammer multiple times over several days as suggested by one of the other posters.

I also bought a manual impact driver with an E10 Torx impact socket wrench attachment and an impact adapter to allow the E10 Torx socket to be attached to the manual impact driver. These three were obtained from Harbor Freight Tools, parts number 64812, 67898 and 61991. Total cost about $25. I used this setup on one of the Torx bolts, but I am not sure it helped to loosen the bolt or not. I think it takes some experience to use one of these manual impact drivers, but I think they are great tools for some people and cheaper than a battery operated impact wrench. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXWiS8sDZX8 and see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKZqNcn3Cvc . As I said, I think it takes some experience to use this tool; it seems that using a large hammer and tapping slowly (to achieve displacement) is better than using a small hammer and hitting it mightily. I think this may be because you need some displacement of the handle "downward" towards the bit head, because the tool is spring loaded.

The rear carpet is up and the underlying pads are out and have been in the oven at a temperature of about 125 degrees Fahrenheit drying. And I am putting old towels and newspapers under the rear carpet to dry it out. My plan at this point is to reinforce the black weather stripping on the roof by running a bead of silicone rubber cement along either side of the strips; and I am going to use 3M Window Weld Ribbon Sealer 3/8" x 15 ' to reinforce the tail light gaskets; and I will use windshield (British "windscreen") sealant to seal cracks in welds between metal pieces and also perhaps the rear hatch gasket. These strategies are advised in two related posts.

More info is in these related posts: Repair manual needed, I think and Rear seat removal instructions needed for 2008 base model Yaris hatchback.

I'll try to include some pictures later.

Thanks again to everybody,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 01-24-2021 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:23 AM   #20
mega-air
 
Drives: Yaris 2009
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Aruba
Posts: 2
I had the same problem. water in the spare tire issue. Driver side. I have fixed it by sealing the seam under the tail light. You have to remove the rear bumper.
Seal both sides as you have the bumper removed.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ldd...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 01-29-2021, 03:47 PM   #21
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by mega-air View Post
I had the same problem. water in the spare tire issue. Driver side. I have fixed it by sealing the seam under the tail light. You have to remove the rear bumper.
Seal both sides as you have the bumper removed.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ldd...ew?usp=sharing
Yes, thanks mega. I was aware of that problem as other people have posted it on this forum, see 2009 Yaris Hatchback Trunk leak .

Thanks again,

R.
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