Powering a dash cam

[Exscotticus]

I'm driving a 2009 Yaris 4DHB. I'd like to install one of those dash cams that mount below the rear view mirror. I searched the forums for ideas on how to power it. I don't want to snake a wire all the way around since part of it would be visible. The idea of snaking another wire through the A or B pillar sounds great, but it's not something I could or would do on my own. I wouldn't mind hiring someone to do it if I could find someone I trust, but I already have bitter experiences hiring "professionals" who screw things up. Finally, my wife doesn't want me to do anything that can't be easily undone.

The solution I have in mind is to take advantage of the fact that there's already wiring to that area to power the dome lights. It's simple to snake a wire from this recessed area to where I need it for the dash cam perhaps six inches away. Although I'm comfortable splicing and soldering, I want to honor my wife's wishes and not alter the car in such a way that I can't return it to the way it was. If someone can help me identify the female connector that's being used, and if I can acquire its male counterpart, plus another female connector, then I can make an adapter that simply attaches to the existing connector, provides the same connector to the light module, plus a third wire that powers the dash cam.

[CTScott]

You would be amazed as to how easy it is to tuck a wire behind the A pillar cover and under the edge of the headliner to get to the mirror. The map light does not have ignition switched power, so the camera would always be powered.

[Exscotticus]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The map light does not have ignition switched power, so the camera would always be powered.

Hmmm. That is a problem. I could add a manual switch (or even commandeer one of the light switches), but all it would take is one forgetful moment…

I might be inclined to try using the A pillar if I saw a video of someone doing it. But what I've read--airbags, clips that break--drains my confidence.

[bairjo]

I ran the wires for my ONSTAR mirror with no problem. I threw together a YouTube video when I did it and you can see how easy it is to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Fzksq80Emk

[ezhacker1]

You can tuck a wire push it in between the pillar and rubber trim easy. The foam headliner is easy to work with as well.nothing at all to more expensive cars that aren't built like legos lol

[Exscotticus]

Originally Posted by bairjo

I ran the wires for my ONSTAR mirror with no problem. I threw together a YouTube video when I did it and you can see how easy it is to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Fzksq80Emk

This video was very inspiring. Thank you!

I had searched for videos like this but probably missed it since my search terms were dash-cam-oriented. But this video applies to anyone wishing to power anything in that area.

[09GLH]

I ran the wire above the windshield and under the rubber trim around the A-pillar, under the carpet to the socket under the radio. I can swap between cars for road trips, and dont have to worry about taking my car apart. Keep it simple, IMO.

[UberSilver]

A lot of dash cams were made to always have power(parking mode), as a motion sensor will activate a one minute recording.

Originally Posted by Exscotticus

Hmmm. That is a problem. I could add a manual switch (or even commandeer one of the light switches), but all it would take is one forgetful moment…

I might be inclined to try using the A pillar if I saw a video of someone doing it. But what I've read--airbags, clips that break--drains my confidence.

[UberSilver]

Your post inspired me to use the map light power. works great, and only draws .15 amps with camera on.

Originally Posted by Exscotticus

I'm driving a 2009 Yaris 4DHB. I'd like to install one of those dash cams that mount below the rear view mirror. I searched the forums for ideas on how to power it. I don't want to snake a wire all the way around since part of it would be visible. The idea of snaking another wire through the A or B pillar sounds great, but it's not something I could or would do on my own. I wouldn't mind hiring someone to do it if I could find someone I trust, but I already have bitter experiences hiring "professionals" who screw things up. Finally, my wife doesn't want me to do anything that can't be easily undone.

The solution I have in mind is to take advantage of the fact that there's already wiring to that area to power the dome lights. It's simple to snake a wire from this recessed area to where I need it for the dash cam perhaps six inches away. Although I'm comfortable splicing and soldering, I want to honor my wife's wishes and not alter the car in such a way that I can't return it to the way it was. If someone can help me identify the female connector that's being used, and if I can acquire its male counterpart, plus another female connector, then I can make an adapter that simply attaches to the existing connector, provides the same connector to the light module, plus a third wire that powers the dash cam.

[CTScott]

150 mA more than doubles what the car draws when off, so be careful when leaving your car parked for a period of time. With the camera plus the standard parasitic drain, you will be lucky to be able to start your car if you leave it parked for more than 2 weeks.

[ezhacker1]

i have my mirror dvr on 24/7 recording on a loop. the delay in motion/vibration mode even if instantaneous isnt enough to catch whatever is going on prior to what you really had hoped to record.

I keep the dvr showing the rear feed when driving (camera placed where the rear water spray nozzle is) to see my blindspots etc. I just turn off the screen while parked.

[47_MasoN_47]

I added a second cigarette lighter port (12v port if you prefer) in the panel under the steering wheel. It turns on with the car via a relay connected to the existing 12v wiring. I plugged one of those 3-port USB charging adapters into that (this way I can swap out the adapter if a new format comes out) I've got a wire ran up through the dash to my RAM mount to provide charging for my cell phone and also run my dash cam wiring from there.

[UberSilver]

Originally Posted by CTScott

150 mA more than doubles what the car draws when off, so be careful when leaving your car parked for a period of time. With the camera plus the standard parasitic drain, you will be lucky to be able to start your car if you leave it parked for more than 2 weeks.

Total draw at the battery is .195 amps with the car off. Camera is most of that, then alarm.

When I leave town, the yaris go's on one of these.

http://www.granitedigital.com/aiodc-2.aspx