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Old 03-14-2021, 03:25 AM   #1
mjl1297
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 18
2014 Toyota Yaris charging issue...

I have a 2014 Toyota Yaris with 181,000 miles on the odometer. Recently I've been hearing some intermittent squealing under the hood which goes away after a bit. Since that is the original serpentine likely barking at me I know it could do with replacing which I am going to do.

However, I'm posting in reference to something that occurred during my drive home from work the other night. When I pulled out of the parking lot, I noticed the battery indicator light was on--and it stayed on all the way home. My commute one way is about 75 minutes and I didn't notice any odd behaviour until the radio started cutting out occasionally as I drove into my hometown.

Even now the car cranks fine. I'm thinking it's the alternator. Battery voltage reads good (around 12 volts) but when I start the car it doesn't change appreciably. I'm using an analogue multimeter but I don't notice the needle jumping. I have checked the following fuses:

ALT-S
MET
GAUGE

and they check fine for continuity. I cannot figure out how to remove the HTR fuse. What is the method? Is it even necessary to remove it since through the clear port it doesn't appear to be blown?


I checked the fuses on the positive battery cable and they appear fine as well. I'm planning on having one of the local auto parts stores verify my alternator diagnosis today but I just thought I would post here for any input.

Many thanks.

Last edited by mjl1297; 03-14-2021 at 03:44 AM.
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Old 03-16-2021, 12:49 PM   #2
Neinris
 
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 217
I've just checked my alternator's output, trying to hunt multiple codes, but no CEL.

Go start your car, let it warm up, remove negative terminal from the battery, then test your alternator's positive terminal to ground for voltage. I was having problem getting the plastic cover off, I just stuck the multimeter lead behind it, and she made +14VDC. It should be 13-14VDC, ideally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts, 12 might be acceptable, but I think it's creeping towards failure.
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Old 03-27-2021, 06:02 PM   #3
mjl1297
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 18
Thanks Neinris for taking the trouble to post.

You were correct. The voltage regulator had failed. I purchased a new alternator and then set about--unbeknownst to me at the time--the nightmare of a DIY installation. Designers at Toyota have put extra effort into making what should have been a fairly straightforward procedure on the part of the car owner an absolute and unparalleled torment. You can't tell me it wasn't deliberate.

Once I finally broke the lower 14mm bolt on the alternator (which must have been torqued to a 120 ft/lbs at the factory) and then loosened the bolt on the bracket opposite (also torqued to 120 ft/lbs and nearly impossible to reach in cramped quarters) so that I could remove the aforementioned and very long 14mm bolt, things proceeded pretty much without incident. Well there was one other thing, I had gotten the wrong serpentine based on the Auto Zone website information and it ended up getting wedged behind one of the pulleys (don't even ask) and the only way to remove the offending belt was to cut it. Things went immeasurably better when I took possession of the right belt! Believe me when I say I used a few words during this installation that I didn't even realise I knew!

Once everything was in and tightened down the moment of truth had arrived. So I started the engine, crossed my fingers, and...no squealing, no squeaks, and NO red light!
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:17 PM   #4
Neinris
 
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 217
So glad you were able to sort it out.
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