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Old 04-25-2021, 01:12 AM   #19
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 51
Wonder if you could share that printing for the throttles... I bet a few would snap that up
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Old 04-29-2021, 04:58 AM   #20
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
Yeah maybe once I've finalized it and am happy with it.

I'm thinking about reprinting another version with the throttles flipped the other way up.

So the linkages etc arent visible from the top. However this wouldnt work for a high mount alternator setup of the non hybrid motor.

Speaking of which, I've printed a prototype for an alternator bracket that mounts it where the AC pump used to go.


and a crappy tensioner, work in progress.


I cant really see any other good options for it.

I've translated the plans into a set of drawings which can be lasercut, then welded together. Will be made from 6mm and 10mm alloy plate.

A friend also kindly gave me some 2ZZ injectors to use.
So there arent very many pieces of the puzzle left to solve!

Nearly ready to start pulling the old motor out.
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Old 04-29-2021, 01:00 PM   #21
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 51
are the 2zz injectors too much?
if memory serves;
1nz- 180-200cc
1zz- 260-280cc
2zz- 315-330cc
i did the injectors on my mr2, and the ecu could compensate but i don't think the 1nz computer could cover that much difference. ... as i typed that i remember you are using the Link ecu so not a problem for you

also, smart alternator mount , i was wondering if the rear power steering mount would work too
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Old 04-29-2021, 09:17 PM   #22
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
The main issue with any injector is that they are difficult to control at very small opening times. (So long as you've got an ECU to set them up correctly)

If you've got the correct injector data then you can get something like a 1000cc injector idling fine on a 1500-1600cc 4cyl motor.

But pushing the limits a bit, past that.

If you use E85 where the required fuel volume is higher, then your minimum opening time increases so you can get away with larger injectors. But then you also need larger injectors to keep up.

On my 2NZ motor with the standard 195cc injectors and ITB setup.
At 7000rpm I am reaching 75% duty cycle.

Generally you dont want to exceed around 85% duty cycle, for an NA motor I prefer to keep maximum around say 50-60% so you can adjust the injector timing if needed.

So if there are any strong reversion points in the rpm range you can adjust the injector timing to stop it spitting the fuel back out.

In other news, I've made some slow and boring progress.

My alternator bracket is getting lasercut from some flat 2D shapes, will then be welded together hopefully next week some time.

I've also not wanted to bother with an electric PS pump, and a manual rack came up for sale so I've grabbed it. Keeps it simple!

With such a light car I cant see there been a massive need for PS.

However if I decide later to fit an electric column assist, I would have needed a manual rack anyway.

Will start pulling the 2NZ motor out possibly this weekend.

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Old 05-03-2021, 05:02 AM   #23
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
So I got the motor out


Then pulled the clutch fork out and went to bolt the new motor and gearbox together...

Ahhh man, I wasnt expecting the top bellhousing bolts to be all wrong.
My understanding was that if you swap the sump over, everything lined up.

180920660_155188799879644_7792811869289981424_n (1).jpg

The position of the dowels on the motor and gearbox were fouling each other, but it works for both if you have them in this position.


The only real solution is to drill through the engine block.
Then there's only really 1 small and 1 large bolt that arent going to work.

181156552_3969638646459838_9149382746867095638_n (1).jpg

It's not the end of the world but I probably would have started with a normal 1NZ block, then fitted high comp pistons if I knew the pattern was so different.

Realistically though it should be fine.
Just caught me off guard I guess.
It's still nice having such a new and low km motor that's so clean.

I just need to file/slot one of the holes a little more, then It'll be about ready to put into the car.

However I also need to figure out my steering rack situation before I can put the motor back in. A few unexpected hurdles but that's always the way!

Cant wait to fire it up.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:19 AM   #24
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
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Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
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Loving the 3D printed prototypes! I'm sorely tempted to get a printer for my garage/shop for that sort of thing. I've got milling machines and lathes so I can fabricate the "real" components once the design is solid but that would make figuring out the shapes a lot easier!

Bummer about the bell housings. I'm not sure anyone has documented trying to mate a C150 to a Prius 1NZ-FXE before, so you're in Lewis and Clark Territory ;)

What's the donor for the steering rack? I've got a few Yaris power steering columns in my parts rack if you need pictures or dimensions.
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:51 PM   #25
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 51
well shit!
i would have thought the other guy (zedicus?) would have mentioned that... maybe toyota changed the block? or wrong bell housing?
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:59 AM   #26
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
I managed to get the bellhousing situation sorted, after lots of drilling, filing, measuring, and pulling the gearbox off and on about 20 times.

Also the manual rack swapped in.
If swapping to a manual rack, you also need this part and the rubber boot otherwise it wont work. It saves around 5kg switching to a manual rack.
And it's much easier to work on anything behind the motor now.

I also had troubles with the motor side engine mount, when trying to use the Prius bracket.
It just wanted to sit the rubber mount too far forward.
So I pulled them both out and compared.
They're quite different!


It looks like a normal 1NZ bracket is required here, but then one of the bolt holes wont work (The one that's not the 3 in line)
However there's not really another option, so I'll source one of these.
Feels good to have the motor sitting in there though!


So a few unexpected issues but still good progress, still hopefully on track for engine fire up on the weekend.
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Old 05-05-2021, 11:03 AM   #27
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 51
I'm excited to see(hear) it fire up. I get my echo tomorrow, so I'm pumped too.
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:51 AM   #28
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
I've been making some more progress.

I swapped the engine bracket to the normal 1NZ engine mount bracket, so now that all bolted up in the engine bay fine.

Since the 1NZ block is a little taller, my trumpets on the intake now hit the bonnet. So I'll need to remake those to suit.

The Aqua engine only has a 2 pin engine temp sensor, where as the NCP10 has a 3 pin sensor - so you just swap them over. (back of the head, at the top near exhaust side)

Then in the Link ECU I just adjusted engine size to 1500cc, and adjusted injector size for the 2ZZ injectors, and it fired up first pop!

Obviously without coolant situation sorted yet, but a good milestone.

The water hose situation has been easy enough, I've got a bin full of random radiator hose sizes so I just mixed and matched until something worked.
However the outlet positions on the engine mean you cant reuse the standard 2NZ / 1NZ hoses, or the 1NZFXE ones.
There's also an issue where the heater outlet off the thermostat housing is very close to the starter motor solenoid wire.
Not quite touching, but I'm not sure if you could get the plug out while that hose is in place.
Could be annoying.

I'll be fitting a temperature sensor on the cold water pipe from the radiator, so I have a measure of both radiator and engine temperatures. Just for interest's sake, but it might also be an interesting metric to set the water pump speed by.

For the waterpump wiring, I've decided to wire it into the fusebox.
As there's unused fuse and relay locations.
Looking at the Aqua fusebox diagram, it runs a 30 amp fuse to the pump.
So I've done the same here.
I will have the pump relay triggered on with the ignition key 12v supply.
Then as soon as the ECU comes online, it can tell the pump to stop via the PWM pin.

So it's a fail safe mode in case that wire breaks or whatever.

I'm still waiting on my alternator bracket to be completed. However something else I need to do is pick the engine loom apart. The alterantor wiring is baked into the bundle of wires that runs high up with the injectors etc.
However because of my low mount alternator, I need to separate it out. Also I need to remove some redundant wiring for the MAF, power steering, aircon, IACV, old TPS, narrowband oxy sensors, and maybe one or two other things.
So I might try make it look a little tidier while I'm at it, but I might run out of patience before then haha.
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Old 05-11-2021, 03:39 PM   #29
Drives: |Mr2
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 51
nice that it started.
i'm kinda surprised about the little differences, ie. motor mounts
what part number is that intermediate shaft for the steering rack?
i am wondering how much the water pump accounts for power wise, the first gen prius uses the same set up as the 1nz, belt driven water pump... but the alternator would be easier, no custom set up
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:50 AM   #30
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
A mechanical waterpump only consumes a fraction of a horsepower - that's why it's important on economy cars.

If you are trying to optimize your power at full throttle it's an irrelevant amount.
However if you are trying to optimize cruising conditions where you make 15hp, then 0.5hp is a lot of difference.

Anyway, I got the pump working well, and I got the motor going.

With still no trumpets on, very conservative ignition timing, and completely standard exhaust for now - this thing sings!

Highest I've revved it to is 8600rpm and feels like it's happy to keep going.
But I know it'll blow the rods up if I carry on like that.

The C56 gearbox is a bit clunky but the new ratios and final drive are delightful.

VVTI isnt working yet, it needs some trumpets, and some ignition timing...

But even so, it's great right now

Here's a comparison on the same section of road with:

Blue line - 2NZ with intake

Green line - 2NZ with ITB

(Both of these are rpm limited by valve bounce)

Then red line is my very early state of tune with the 1NZFXE


Very happy with how things are coming along, but there's still a lot left in it!
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Old 05-21-2021, 06:48 PM   #31
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Sounds awesome.
2014 Yaris LE 5 Speed - Netz emblem, fog lights, TRD sway bar, Blitz ram air, JDM tails, TRD short shifter, 15-17 radio, SE/RS spoiler, weeb stickers, projector retrofit, SE cluster, NST crank pulley, MR lowering springs, SE rear bumper - Daily driver

2007 F150 STX 4.2L 5 Speed - towing mirrors, Back Rack, weeb stickers, chrome bumpers, Lariat grille, Mark LT headlights - Pampered workhorse

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Old 05-21-2021, 11:11 PM   #32
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So good
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Old 05-30-2021, 12:29 AM   #33
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 30
So I found the VVTI problem, it wasnt to do with the valve springs overpowering the cam pulley. Although that's still possibly an issue at higher rpm.

It was that the locking pin was stuck in place, so the cam couldnt advance.

So I remedied that, and... hit valves into pistons when I advanced the cam.

I'd seen someone else using prius pistons with VVTI and this same cam, so thought it would be fine. However the issue is that the Aqua motor has significantly smaller valve cutouts than the earlier 13:1 pistons. So this works fine with a standard cam, but not the JUN 9.5 / 264 deg.

early vs late.jpg

Something else interesting I've learned along the way, a lot of people having issues fitting the head stud kits, where you have to still use a normal head bolt where the VVTI solenoid goes.

The Aqua part number VVTI solenoid is physically shorter, but has all of the oil galleries in the same location. It doesnt protrude into the head as far.
So it's possible that using this, will allow people to use the full head stud kit without issues.


So the plan from here, since I've found this motor likes to rev. I will fit some stronge rods so I can run to 9k if needed without any stress.
Then either machine deeper cutouts into the Aqua pistons, or buy a set of earlier pistons to fit at the same time. So I can have full VVTI range.
Then also get an LSD sorted as this definitely needs it now.

So probably some slow progress from here, but will stick at it.
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Old 06-17-2021, 12:13 PM   #34
Drives: Yaris 2002 NCP10 2NZ Mt
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Macas - Ecuador
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Awasome build Roman, could you give me the piece number of the shorter vvti selenoid, maybe you know if ARP Head studs for 1nz fit on 2nz ??
2002 NCP10 2NZ (Walbro 255, AEM Wideband, Cat-delete, Front brake kit with drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads, Stainless steel brake lines, Tein S-Tech lowering springs)
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