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Old 04-16-2021, 06:58 PM   #1
RomanDave
 
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
Join Date: Dec 2020
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RomanDave's Prius C swap

Hi,

I managed to find some great information on this site from other users, mainly Zedicus' post about Prius C engine swap.

So thought I'd share some extra details of what I've been doing.

The basic plan is:

Low km Prius C motor
Silvertop 4AGE ITB setup
Link G4+ ECU
BC valve springs
JUN 264 / 9.5mm cams
4kg flywheel
Exedy clutch
C56 gearbox / helical LSD

Into a 2005 NCP10 3 door Echo.
Currently running a normal 2NZ with ITB and saw great results.

Progress posts to follow.

DSC07717.jpg
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Old 04-16-2021, 07:04 PM   #2
RomanDave
 
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So first thing was to start collecting some parts.
The gearing sucks so I managed to find a C56 from a Vitz RS.
Then 4kg flywheel from Japan.
Exedy clutch.
Some BC valve springs from Ebay.
Then a normal 1NZ sump to swap over.
Then at this stage I just had some normal 1NZ cams to swap in too.
But because it's heaps of work to swap over the cams while the motor is in, I figured I may as well just cut to the chase. So ordered some JUN cams which are still on their way.

168404282_10158351887127198_2171414234416335031_n.jpg
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Old 04-16-2021, 07:10 PM   #3
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I managed to get a 30,000km old 1NZFXE, everything looked amazingly new and fresh.

So started stripping it down and decided to swap the sump over first.

Then once I'd done that, I decided to get the old valve springs out and replace with the BC springs.

Bad move! Dropped one of the retainers down an oil passage, into the sump.
So had to take it off again.

173134392_770974303559712_3179763851958112171_n.jpg

It turns out that it was impossible to try fit the new stiffer springs with the head in place, so I removed the head and took it to the local engine shop to sort out.

Once I took the head off, holy moly this motor looked yuck inside.
I'm hoping it's all deposits from EGR, rather than blowing past the piston rings. I'm not keen on swapping out rings or removing rods and pistons at this stage. But if the motor blows a lot of smoke, I guess I'll have to.

I spent a while cleaning up the pistons and combustion chambers just with petrol and a toothbrush. Hopefully it will self clean a little more when being run without EGR.

173475557_315783719969206_7920177359922194883_n.jpg

So I got the head back but I need to order some more head bolts before I can put it all together again.
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Old 04-16-2021, 07:19 PM   #4
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Next up is to see if I can get the electric water pump going.

173879036_756769391692638_7001629810685832613_n.jpg

So its pretty simple if you have the loom/plug.

The 4 wires are:

Ground: White with black stripe, heavy gauge
12v supply: light blue heavy gauge
PWM pump speed control: small blue wire
pump speed return signal: small green wire


So if you are retrofitting and want a simple install, if you connect just the 12v and ground wires, the pump will run full speed constantly. So you could just wire this to a relay that controls the fuel pump perhaps.

If you earth out the PWM pump speed control pin, the pump completely stops. If you pulse the signal with a varying duty cycle, it can lower or raise pump speed.

Then the return signal wire outputs a square wave (as seen on laptop screen) which you can wire to a digital input on an ECU to monitor pump speed.
So this way you can tell if the pump has failed and setup some warnings, rather than waiting for the motor to overheat. So that's handy.
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Old 04-16-2021, 07:36 PM   #5
RomanDave
 
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For the ECU install, since mine is a 2005 model it has the 4rows of pins on the ECU. Earlier models with 2 row pins you can buy a DIYBOB or other adapters as it is the same ECU pinout common with some Hondas and other cars.

No such thing available in this case, so I chopped the plugs out of a spare ECU to make an adapter loom. So it could revert to the standard ECU if needed (at least initially, while it had the standard manifold etc on it)

120747876_684250735836824_1175225593040431551_n.jpg.de153393623626adfac4e7f59d60bee4.jpg


Then the ITB manifold was 3d printed from HIPS material then covered in some carbon fibre for a bit more strength. Has now been on the car for about 6 months with no issues, (with the 2NZ currently)

130721088_716943965693546_1747835185761600852_n.jpg

126985763_10158031647752198_4786409791080352050_o.jpg
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Old 04-17-2021, 12:06 AM   #6
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Wouldn't be surprised if you get 150whp out of that setup.
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Old 04-17-2021, 12:41 AM   #7
remcafee
 
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i love it i love it i love it! im a sucker for pumped out all motor itb engines, you should get a nice linear and smooth power increase too which i love over forcced induction
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:00 AM   #8
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-17-2021, 02:23 PM   #9
speedworxs
 
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i'm picking up a 05 hatchback , i was intending on this very swap.
not as electrically smart for the electric pump, but i was debating some cams (254) with it too. i wouldn't go for the itb's but might do a corolla throttle.
will the factory ecu run fine with the increase in compression? i wish there was a way to increase rev limit
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Old 04-17-2021, 07:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedworxs View Post
i'm picking up a 05 hatchback , i was intending on this very swap.
not as electrically smart for the electric pump, but i was debating some cams (254) with it too. i wouldn't go for the itb's but might do a corolla throttle.
will the factory ecu run fine with the increase in compression? i wish there was a way to increase rev limit
You can increase the rev limiter if you overclock the factory ECU, but you have to be careful, too much will give you serious problems. But that is one "ghetto" way of doing it. Of course, a proper piggyback or standalone is a far better route.

Premium will be a must at minimum with that kind of compression and stock timing.
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Old 04-19-2021, 05:02 AM   #11
RomanDave
 
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
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JUN cams arrived today, and I'm happy to report that everything fits up fine, including the cam gears.

Thankfully the Aqua shares the exhaust side part number of the 2004+ normal 1NZ motor, and the intake side will work fine too.

Sometimes one of the gears ends up out of alignment, depending on the combination of bits you started with.

It's quite hard to turn the cams over by hand, definitely a lot stiffer springs than standard or my 3S motor.

Need to get a feeler gauge and shim these and see how far out it is. (or not)
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:01 PM   #12
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I can't wait to hear this thing at full throttle under load
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:10 PM   #13
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With the cams make sure you have it fully advanced when testing fitment, I know PTV clearance was really tight when I tested myself. Also watch out for ring flutter, I had some issues with that when running over 7k rpms with the ultra low tension prius c rings.
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Old 04-22-2021, 06:11 AM   #14
RomanDave
 
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Progress.

The head is back on properly, cam clearances all within spec after 2-3 goes of juggling the existing shims around.

I pick-a-parted a front pulley, so now I can start on an alternator bracket.

Funnily enough the light weight alternator kit for my 3S motor, that saves 4KG.
Uses a 1NZ alternator.
So there's some irony in stealing the brackets from that, in order to mount a 1NZ alternator to a 1NZ.
I'll just need an intermediate plate to bolt to the side of the block and stick these on, hopefully.
Not the most light weight solution but I'm more about just getting this going for now.
Looks like underneath the waterpump will be the place for it, and no AC anymore.

One of the now superfluous water outlets was a hose barb that sat with a tapered thread into the back side of the block. Which I replaced with a drain block off bolt I pinched from a dead 3S motor. Easy fix.

Also note how the dipstick on this motor nicely bends out of the way, rather than being between number 1 and 2 throttles. Excellent.

DSC08424.jpg
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Old 04-22-2021, 09:33 AM   #15
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very cool
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Old 04-24-2021, 07:03 PM   #16
speedworxs
 
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hey! i meant to ask, how are you doing the power steering pump (if your car had that)
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Old 04-25-2021, 12:06 AM   #17
RomanDave
 
Drives: 2NZ ITB NCP10
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I'm not sure yet.

I am hoping to keep the factory PS arrangement though.

But it will depend on how difficult the required brackets are.

Just sorting the alternator side first.
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Old 04-25-2021, 12:07 AM   #18
RomanDave
 
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I've got the intake on it now though, a fair bit more clearance now that dipstick tube and alternator isnt an issue!

So I might reprint my manifold so the throttles are the other way up.
This way it wont have the ugly linkages and throttle cable on top.

(They're not fitted for pic)

176962968_127102146071794_930146381247609613_n.jpg
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