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Old 02-10-2021, 06:37 AM   #1
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 15
Clutch Low biting point

SOLVED

We have a 1.3 VVT-i 2008 Yaris mk2

Ever since we've owned the car (second hand) the clutch biting point is right at the floor, the garage we purchased it from said it has a new clutch... but I take that with a pinch of salt. You really have to mash the pedal into the floor or risk crunching gears 1st and reverse.

I've bled the brakes number of times, cant see any fluid leaking from master or slave, the fluid is good and topped up so make me think not hydraulic, scanning through online I see other posts with the same issue but no one either sorts it or comes back to post what the resolution was, some have reported they changed the clutch to no effect... which brings me to post this.. I was looking at changing the clutch but cant work out why the biting point would be low for a warn clutch sounds more like a fork or pressure plate spring to strong no releasing?

Has anyone else had this and found the culprit ?

Last edited by Rich_UK; 02-17-2021 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 02-17-2021, 08:23 AM   #2
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 15
The Fix

For those that face the same issue as I couldn't find anyone post online with the answer but found people changing clutches but to no avail!!!
I had no leaks anywhere etc and this has saved me dropping the gearbox and checking the fork and clutch etc.. Hope this helps someone else.

So after searching for a replacement clutch master cylinder to try I noticed there was a newer version on the later cars this has a metal hex shaft with a lock nut so you adjust the biting point.

I decided to opt for one from a breakers from a 2013 Yaris, I thought it gives me the ability to test if mine is faulty but also to attempt the adjustment!

And it worked!!! the master cylinder internals has a plastic piston in side so with that the wear may not hold pressure on the fluid or maybe the new/after market clutches are stronger with different release bearing travel and require more pressure/further travel.

So to sum up if you are experiencing the low biting point then it could easily be the master cylinder its not to hard to change remove spring, pin and clip for the peddle in the foot well and then under the bonnet undo the feed and pressure pipe (8mm flare nut spanner) from the master cylinder (you can bend the feed up higher then the reservoir just hold it with some mole grips) finally remove the 2 nuts in the foot well that hold it in place 12mm deep socket would be ideal (I didnt have one so it was spanners & took a long time!) refitting is simple but I would advise if you get an adjustable one put them both on the bench and adjust it there maybe make it 1/4"-1/2" longer than your current one as its harder to do in place but still able with spanners I had too re-adjust.

Correct adjustment procedure I've no idea but should be written somewhere as toyota would have to do it on these adjust able ones I just didnt search I just adjusted it to make the biting point halfway up the travel (note make sure the clutch is not slipping with foot off)

Note:
You'll need to bleed your clutch afterwards and it takes a bit having air locked in there I find 2 people is the best method someone pushes and holds peddle down the other undoes the bleed nipple at the lave cylinder (with tube on to catch fluid) just a bit then does up again the person in the car then releases the peddle and repeats all again until all air is out, it takes a good 40 or so before fluid and air is through so be patient, also once the slave cylinder extends don't open the nipple for too long once the the slave pressure drops and it moves halfway back do it up if you allow it to travel all the way you can introduce air back in.

Hope this helps someone.

Last edited by Rich_UK; 02-17-2021 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 06-30-2021, 06:14 PM   #3
Harros
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Drives: Yaris MKII 1.3 vvti
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Brno
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_UK View Post
The Fix

For those that face the same issue as I couldn't find anyone post online with the answer but found people changing clutches but to no avail!!!
I had no leaks anywhere etc and this has saved me dropping the gearbox and checking the fork and clutch etc.. Hope this helps someone else.

So after searching for a replacement clutch master cylinder to try I noticed there was a newer version on the later cars this has a metal hex shaft with a lock nut so you adjust the biting point.

I decided to opt for one from a breakers from a 2013 Yaris, I thought it gives me the ability to test if mine is faulty but also to attempt the adjustment!

And it worked!!! the master cylinder internals has a plastic piston in side so with that the wear may not hold pressure on the fluid or maybe the new/after market clutches are stronger with different release bearing travel and require more pressure/further travel.

So to sum up if you are experiencing the low biting point then it could easily be the master cylinder its not to hard to change remove spring, pin and clip for the peddle in the foot well and then under the bonnet undo the feed and pressure pipe (8mm flare nut spanner) from the master cylinder (you can bend the feed up higher then the reservoir just hold it with some mole grips) finally remove the 2 nuts in the foot well that hold it in place 12mm deep socket would be ideal (I didnt have one so it was spanners & took a long time!) refitting is simple but I would advise if you get an adjustable one put them both on the bench and adjust it there maybe make it 1/4"-1/2" longer than your current one as its harder to do in place but still able with spanners I had too re-adjust.

Correct adjustment procedure I've no idea but should be written somewhere as toyota would have to do it on these adjust able ones I just didnt search I just adjusted it to make the biting point halfway up the travel (note make sure the clutch is not slipping with foot off)

Note:
You'll need to bleed your clutch afterwards and it takes a bit having air locked in there I find 2 people is the best method someone pushes and holds peddle down the other undoes the bleed nipple at the lave cylinder (with tube on to catch fluid) just a bit then does up again the person in the car then releases the peddle and repeats all again until all air is out, it takes a good 40 or so before fluid and air is through so be patient, also once the slave cylinder extends don't open the nipple for too long once the the slave pressure drops and it moves halfway back do it up if you allow it to travel all the way you can introduce air back in.

Hope this helps someone.
Hi, thanks a lot for this information! Did you buy this master cylinder? https://automator.pl/api/media/stock...2-458632-1.jpg
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Old 10-22-2021, 02:16 PM   #4
snipsnap
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 1
Thanks to Rich_UK I also fixed it, but in a different manner. I used only the metal hex shaft of a second hand clutch master cilinder. Just by removing the pedal I could change the original plastic shaft for the metal one. Putting the pedal back in place and building a little tension with the nut it was fixed.

https://ibb.co/9Zp2YXR

1 carefully lift up the white plastic slider (do not remove it completely)
2 provide continuous back pressure behind the joint of the plastic shaft (e.g. with a small pointed screwdriver)
3 now completely remove the white plastic slide, while maintaining pressure
4 replace the plastic shaft for the metal one, while maintaining pressure
5 now push a little harder with the metal shaft so that you can place the white slide back
6 put back the white slide

Good luck!

Last edited by snipsnap; 10-22-2021 at 02:17 PM. Reason: picture wasn't showing up
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Old 11-01-2021, 09:46 AM   #5
Reklaw-79
 
Drives: Yaris TR
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by snipsnap View Post
Thanks to Rich_UK I also fixed it, but in a different manner. I used only the metal hex shaft of a second hand clutch master cilinder. Just by removing the pedal I could change the original plastic shaft for the metal one. Putting the pedal back in place and building a little tension with the nut it was fixed.

https://ibb.co/9Zp2YXR

1 carefully lift up the white plastic slider (do not remove it completely)
2 provide continuous back pressure behind the joint of the plastic shaft (e.g. with a small pointed screwdriver)
3 now completely remove the white plastic slide, while maintaining pressure
4 replace the plastic shaft for the metal one, while maintaining pressure
5 now push a little harder with the metal shaft so that you can place the white slide back
6 put back the white slide

Good luck!
Can I ask what year car has the updated version please Iím struggling to find one
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Old 11-22-2021, 08:17 AM   #6
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 15
Apologies ive not been on i need to get notifications turned on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harros View Post
Hi, thanks a lot for this information! Did you buy this master cylinder? https://automator.pl/api/media/stock...2-458632-1.jpg
I'm not sure which one it was, I purchased a second hand one from ebay for a 2013 car I think they changed master cylinders around 2012 try looking up your model on here
https://toyota-europe.epc-data.com/

then look at a 2012+ for the same part (makes sure its not an auto )

@snipsnap: Yea I guess you could do that as long as you're careful as you could end up with a footwell of clutch fluid and the seals!
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Old 11-22-2021, 08:25 AM   #7
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 15
UPDATE:
So the master cylinder still works but now another 10 months down the line im teaching my daughter to drive in the car so the clutch is getting some more than usual abuse!

So I thought I would fill you guys in, the clutch biting point is good but yea 2nd gear (only when cold) and reverse sometimes are notchy to get in so I though the only thing left would be the pressure plate spring or worn clutch so i decided to change it!

I changed the clutch (took around 4 hrs I can post my procedure if anyone wants but i didnt take any photos) the clutch didnt look heavily worn but coul d be old and weak springs on the pressure plate, So when refilling the gearbox oil I had previously used 75w90 this time I used Toyota straight flat 75W from the owners manual, The clutch is still adjustable via the newer master cylinder and feels much better and the crunching gears are also pretty much gone now!
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