Dashboard Clock goes off?

[sven337]

It's a buck module, not a linear power supply, you can adjust it without a load.
The VFD is only useful for testing, if you're doing my repair you don't need it you just need to set up the buck module for about 1.5V.

Removing the SMT components is easy. Chisel tip, 30W or more, add a bunch of leaded solder, heat up like crazy (you don't care you're removing everything) and the transistors will slide right off.

As for the VFD socket, I actually soldered the output lead of the buck module to the base of the VFD connector. Not soldering sounded like a potential issue with vibration.

[adsb]

Right hand drive model repaired, thanks to sven337 for the instructions.

Photos of MP1584EN device, testing with DMM to obtain correct output of 1.5v, more photos of the existing transistors and after removal (a few pads came off in the process) , close ups of buck regulator in situ and wiring to pin 1 of VFD connector.

I disconnected the battery negative terminal before removing cluster.
Used a 12v 1.2ah battery from commercial intruder alarm panel as poor mans lab psu for testing.

I noted that there were 5 transistors not 6 for my model.
That ribbon cable is a right PITA to get back in to the slot and close the latch on the connector !

Sorry if the photos are in the incorrect order.

Thanks again sven337 !

[sven337]

Thank you for the excellent pictures that will, no doubt, help people implement the fix.

[NOLF]

Sorry but i can find dashboard pinout, can you post it for me. I can't test me dash, i don't no where is positive and negative.

[sven337]

https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...test_setup.jpg
+12V top right
GND bottom left

[sven337]

Someone asked me to repair their clock, I took a better picture of the fix + the test setup.

[Sumi]

Is there anyone out there who managed to fix it by replacing the transistors? I'd need the dimming feature.

[Sumi]

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

[worm6666]

Hi folks.

I have another option - after successful measuring of all transistors - all were good - I cleaned the paths and returned back originals... And it works again.

And have created a cooling pad - from aluminium piece of thin sheet connected with heat conductive paste to transistors - like for pc repairs











hope it helps somebody...

It looks like only the soldering under the marked 3 transistors were burned...

[bubinio]

Hi guys,

I tried sven337 solution but with 1,5V the clock is not bright at all. When i adjust it at about 2,7V to be brighter then the red lines appear. When the lights are turned on, the clock is not readable!

Great work though for sven337 and all the rest!!

[Sumi]

Originally Posted by Sumi

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

Died today again.

Any ideas how to do the boost converter mod with retaining the dimming feature?