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Old 02-10-2021, 06:37 AM   #1
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 10
Clutch Low biting point

SOLVED

We have a 1.3 VVT-i 2008 Yaris mk2

Ever since we've owned the car (second hand) the clutch biting point is right at the floor, the garage we purchased it from said it has a new clutch... but I take that with a pinch of salt. You really have to mash the pedal into the floor or risk crunching gears 1st and reverse.

I've bled the brakes number of times, cant see any fluid leaking from master or slave, the fluid is good and topped up so make me think not hydraulic, scanning through online I see other posts with the same issue but no one either sorts it or comes back to post what the resolution was, some have reported they changed the clutch to no effect... which brings me to post this.. I was looking at changing the clutch but cant work out why the biting point would be low for a warn clutch sounds more like a fork or pressure plate spring to strong no releasing?

Has anyone else had this and found the culprit ?

Last edited by Rich_UK; 02-17-2021 at 08:38 AM.
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Old 02-17-2021, 08:23 AM   #2
Rich_UK
 
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 10
The Fix

For those that face the same issue as I couldn't find anyone post online with the answer but found people changing clutches but to no avail!!!
I had no leaks anywhere etc and this has saved me dropping the gearbox and checking the fork and clutch etc.. Hope this helps someone else.

So after searching for a replacement clutch master cylinder to try I noticed there was a newer version on the later cars this has a metal hex shaft with a lock nut so you adjust the biting point.

I decided to opt for one from a breakers from a 2013 Yaris, I thought it gives me the ability to test if mine is faulty but also to attempt the adjustment!

And it worked!!! the master cylinder internals has a plastic piston in side so with that the wear may not hold pressure on the fluid or maybe the new/after market clutches are stronger with different release bearing travel and require more pressure/further travel.

So to sum up if you are experiencing the low biting point then it could easily be the master cylinder its not to hard to change remove spring, pin and clip for the peddle in the foot well and then under the bonnet undo the feed and pressure pipe (8mm flare nut spanner) from the master cylinder (you can bend the feed up higher then the reservoir just hold it with some mole grips) finally remove the 2 nuts in the foot well that hold it in place 12mm deep socket would be ideal (I didnt have one so it was spanners & took a long time!) refitting is simple but I would advise if you get an adjustable one put them both on the bench and adjust it there maybe make it 1/4"-1/2" longer than your current one as its harder to do in place but still able with spanners I had too re-adjust.

Correct adjustment procedure I've no idea but should be written somewhere as toyota would have to do it on these adjust able ones I just didnt search I just adjusted it to make the biting point halfway up the travel (note make sure the clutch is not slipping with foot off)

Note:
You'll need to bleed your clutch afterwards and it takes a bit having air locked in there I find 2 people is the best method someone pushes and holds peddle down the other undoes the bleed nipple at the lave cylinder (with tube on to catch fluid) just a bit then does up again the person in the car then releases the peddle and repeats all again until all air is out, it takes a good 40 or so before fluid and air is through so be patient, also once the slave cylinder extends don't open the nipple for too long once the the slave pressure drops and it moves halfway back do it up if you allow it to travel all the way you can introduce air back in.

Hope this helps someone.

Last edited by Rich_UK; 02-17-2021 at 08:38 AM.
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