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Old 06-11-2006, 01:07 PM   #19
stuffy
 
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i've been driving manual since i got my license about 16 years ago, and i have always downshifted when coming to a stop, and i have only replaced a clutch once,but what i would like to know...

...what the hell is rev-matching? i've never heard that term before (car illiterate to some degree),
does this mean that as you slow down you just continue to drop it into the appropriate gear so the engine rev doesn't increase?
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Old 06-11-2006, 05:02 PM   #20
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rev matching w/o using the clutch Lets say in 2nd gear at 20 mpg your at 3k rpm. You can put it into 2nd gear w/o the clutch by reving the enigne to 3k rpm while in neutral and off the clutch. Dont try it at that speed or rpm, i dont knwo the rpm spots of the yaris stick but its less wear on the clutch if you can get used to double clutching. If you do it wrong it wont go in or it'll grind.

Double clutching is for less wear on teh syncros (the things that make it so the gears dont grind). Lets say your in 5th at 40 mph. If you stick it in 1st its gonna fight for a second to go in w/ the clutch down, those are the syncros spinning up the trans part of the clutch to match the required engine rpm. To double clutch, pop it in neutral off the clutch, rev the engine to 5-6k rpm, then real quick hit the clutch and pop it in 1st, should go in smoothly.

Basically you want to rev the engine to where you think it should be when putting it in a gear and you must be off the clutch and in neutral to spin up the trans.
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Old 06-11-2006, 06:08 PM   #21
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The whole reason synchromeshes were invented for manual transmissions was to eliminate the need to double clutch...However it can save wear on the synchros if you are driving in a manner (aggressive) that puts heavy wear on them...I have driven previous cars in my youth being hard on the clutch, and all I can say, is that I still got 200k kms out of those original clutches with 1st and 2nd gear tire spinning etc...

Cheers
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Old 06-11-2006, 06:23 PM   #22
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thanks for the info guys, i would like to try that sometime, maybe i should go to driving school to learn.....
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Old 06-11-2006, 08:21 PM   #23
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In my experience, the general rule of thumb is to use brakes as the primary way of slowing the car down. I heel-toe all the time, but I almost always have the brakes doing A LOT more work than the engine is.

The clutch will not experience any abnormal wear and tear when downshifting correctly(via rev-matching), but it is the tranny that is taking the load when engine braking.

Bottom line, what's more expensive to replace? Brake pads and rotors or a transmission?
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Old 06-11-2006, 10:06 PM   #24
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I just put the clutch in and coast using brake to come to a complete stop. I see it being pointless to keep downshifting through every gear until you stop, its just not necessary, and wears your clutch more. I dont care how good you rev match, your still using your clutch more. And to me, more clutch usage means it wears faster.
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:01 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leenis24
I just put the clutch in and coast using brake to come to a complete stop. I see it being pointless to keep downshifting through every gear until you stop, its just not necessary, and wears your clutch more. I dont care how good you rev match, your still using your clutch more. And to me, more clutch usage means it wears faster.
Keeping the clutch depressed for long periods of time also wears out the clutch quicker.
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:17 AM   #26
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With proper driving you should not need worry about the trans. You will go threw many brake jobs first.
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:06 AM   #27
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i usually downshift if im in a rush. most of the time i coast so i can give my car a lil break from the damage i do to its engine when i driving.
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
However it can save wear on the synchros if you are driving in a manner (aggressive) that puts heavy wear on them
Yea i'm speaking from experience with a '97 6-speed Trans Am 5.7 liter tho

But if can get good at shifting w/o a clutch it puts less wear on the clutch which will need to be replaced in the future reguardless of how you drive it.

Quote:
and i have only replaced a clutch once
I'v replaced on my TA, ahem:
clutch
throwout bearing (a 30 mile drive w/o a clutch really sucks :)
stock gears once
4.11 gears twice
transmission once

Fun but sometimes not worh the money
BTW she ran low 13's in the 1/4 mile (or 400 meter) and a top speed of 160 mph (or 260 kph), talk about a rush =D

Last edited by pennystocks; 06-12-2006 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:41 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuffy
thanks for the info guys, i would like to try that sometime, maybe i should go to driving school to learn.....
If you want to have some real fun while learning, try the race driving school at Shannonville (aka Nelson International Speedway). They have different programs at different pricepoints, covering everything from defensive driving techniques, to actual learn to race days. I've done one of the motorcycle race days, and it was first class!!!
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:30 PM   #30
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I just started driving manaul again when I got my Yaris. I normally leave the gear in neutral and use my break to stop but some of my friends says that it is dangerous especially in the winter time because your wheel will slide easier if you don't have the car in gear. I just wanted to know if anybody knows if this is true or not. And also does the car stop faster if it is in gear or in neutral?
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:23 PM   #31
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thanks for the info ricko, i am definitely interested in taking a class or two!
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:47 PM   #32
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If you have ABS then pop it in neutral, the ABS along side the EBD will work fine.

If you dont have ABS then keep it in gear. It will be alot harder to lock up the tires when its got resistance from the engine. If you engine does die tho make sure you quickly hit the clutch, cause the engine will keep the tires locked.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:53 AM   #33
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Guess it's time for us older folks to chime in.

We have been driving mostly stick-shift cars for the last 45 yrs - including 3 ALFA's, 3 VW's, a Ford Fiesta, Datsun 510, Dodge PU, Ford Explorer and a Ford Ranger.

We have kept out cars for long periods, replaced very few clutches and required very few brake jobs. Our last two vehicles ('97 Explorer & '98 Ranger) had 114,000 and 90,000 miles respectively and both had the orginal brakes and clutches operating properly when sold. The '79 Fiesta was finally wrecked by our daughter at 180,000 miles and it was still pretty much all orginal. It was the most like our Yaris - very fun to drive.

We brake by downshifting and NEVER coast in neutral. My dad told me at a very young age that you have no control over a car running in neutral. (This was in the early 1950's, and I recently learned he had been an auto mechanic in San Diego around 1914, before he was an airplane mechanic in the Navy in WWl, which was before he was a minor star in silent movies in Hollywood - an interesting man.)

The secret is driving SMOOTHLY. As my wife says, when you are doing it right it's like a dance. As others have said, brake going in, rev up, back-shift and accelerate out. The Yaris is very quick thru tight turns.

I am currently experimenting with driving styles and gas mileage. Got 37MPG on last tank driving more spiritedly.

Must note thet we have had problems with two of our manual transmissions - both the result of towing, not normal driving. It's also the reason we now tow with a 2006 4Runner V8 - with an automatic transmission.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:18 AM   #34
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Thats the key smoothly. Well said.
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