Looking at seats...

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

more than a few -- I've heard Toyota techs wait 20 to make sure the SRS system resets (it has it's own battery, btw)

I figured that out first-hand. I pulled the battery for about 10 minutes, reconnected, and still nothing. It's been pulled about an hour or so now. Think it's time for a second attempt?

[MGargano]

Is there a definite answer for how long it takes the SRS ECU to reset itself with a battery disconnect? I want to make sure all the SRS reserve power is drained before trying this again.

[CTScott]

Here's what the SM says:

Wait at least 90 seconds after the ignition switch is
turned off and the negative (-) terminal cable is
disconnected from the battery before starting the
operation.
(The SRS is equipped with a back-up power source, so
if work is started within 90 seconds of disconnecting
the negative (-) terminal cable of the battery, the SRS
may be deployed).

[MGargano]

I disconnected the battery overnight (about 13 hours or so) and tried it this morning... still nothing positive. All dash indicators are still lit.

[CTScott]

Try reading the codes from the SRS again.

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Try reading the codes from the SRS again.

Same as before- 32, 55, & 56

[CTScott]

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

[DorytheYaris]

Originally Posted by MGargano

I'm looking to upgrade the front seats in my 09' hatch but I'm honestly not really sure what's out there, especially since some of the websites I checked out are crazy expensive. I'm just looking for something with good support, OEM function (sliding, reclining front and back, folding to let passenger's in back), and something lower to the ground.

I see these on fleaBay, but I'm not sure of the quality or fitment: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...Q5fAccessories

Appreciate any help I can get with this.

If you get rid of your seats I WILL GLADLY buy your stock passenger seat from you! I need one desperately!!!!! and I am in NJ!!!

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by DorytheYaris

If you get rid of your seats I WILL GLADLY buy your stock passenger seat from you! I need one desperately!!!!! and I am in NJ!!!

If I do decide to sell the OEM passenger seat it will most likely be without the four weight sensors. I haven't made up my mind about getting rid of the OEM seats yet though. I want to get the new ones working 100% before I get rid of the old ones. I'll definitely keep you in mind though.

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

Ok I'll give this a try ASAP. Thanks for posting the instructions.

[DorytheYaris]

Originally Posted by MGargano

If I do decide to sell the OEM passenger seat it will most likely be without the four weight sensors. I haven't made up my mind about getting rid of the OEM seats yet though. I want to get the new ones working 100% before I get rid of the old ones. I'll definitely keep you in mind though.

Thank you :)

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

Ok this is either impossible or I'm doing something wrong. It's really hard to read, interpret, and follow directions in 2-4 seconds. Also, the light is coming on solid immediately after disconnecting the jumper, not after 2-4 seconds so I'm not sure what's up there.

I thought I had it at first and was down to only code 32. Then I probed one of the weight sensors (still nothing!) and checked the codes again. Now I'm getting 32 and 55, but not 56. WTF?

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper from TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

I'm getting stuck right at the beginning. The SRS light should come on solid after 3 seconds, but instead it comes on solid immediately after the jumper is disconnected.

[CTScott]

You might want to try two jumpers, where you can leave them on the pins and then connect them while your hands are up in visible range of the display.

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

You might want to try two jumpers, where you can leave them on the pins and then connect them while your hands are up in visible range of the display.

That's actually what I tried. I have one pin in each connector and am connecting the two with an alligator-clip wire but it's still tough. That aside, it doesn't seem to be going the way the directions indicate it should with the flashes, solids, etc.

[MGargano]

Ok, trying your idea I'm 99% I successfully cleared the codes. Well, codes 55 & 56 are gone, but code 32 remains flashing.

[CTScott]

Cool. At this point you must feel like your defusing a bomb.

Code 32 is the OCS. The issue right now is the lack of a base load on the sensors. They are calibrated for the weight of the empty seat.

Are you still measuring no voltage on the sensors?

[MGargano]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Cool. At this point you must feel like your defusing a bomb.

Code 32 is the OCS. The issue right now is the lack of a base load on the sensors. They are calibrated for the weight of the empty seat.

Are you still measuring no voltage on the sensors?

I was measuring no voltage on the sensors with all the codes still flashing but I haven't tried it now with only code 32. Maybe they won't receive voltage if they don't sense any weight at all? The sensors are plugged into the system, but are just laying on the floor in the car.