Beefing Up my Yaris

[Loren]

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why, with the given goal of 130-140whp, you don't just go with a readily available and proven supercharger kit. You'll end up spending more on a custom turbo kit in the long run.

Expand your $2500 budget to $3000-3400 and you get a plug & play kit that meets your goals without trial and error.

If you want MORE power than that, then you need to go through the trials and tribulations of a custom turbo kit, fuel management, possibly forged internals, lower compression pistons, yadda yadda. But, if all you want is 130 hp...

[cali yaris]

^ these are good points.

Meth kit is about $300, and a gallon will last for weeks, just to be clear.

I'm not saying its necessary, either. You'd have to tune for it, which means management.

I don't think it is needed for 130-140, probably can do that with a Stage 0 and no water/meth.

[H3LlIoN]

Originally Posted by Loren

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why, with the given goal of 130-140whp, you don't just go with a readily available and proven supercharger kit.

A couple things regarding this....

First, the blitz will not put down a buck thirty by itself. "Turbo" magazine installed it and only got to 119hp. Link Here.

Secondly, there is very little upside to the blitz. If you want more boost, you first have to convert it to fixed pulley, instead of electronic, which is unproven ground as, to my knowledge, noone has done it. Then, you have to drop to lower comp pistons, since more boost on our factory 10.5:1 pistons will cause issues. Past that point, the s/c is capped at a (roughly) 9 to 10 psi on the housing before you leave the safe operating range.

At the very least, you would need to run s/c with additional bolt ons.

[RacerFreakXXX]

1. A BOV is not a must for a stage 0/1... there are plenty of stock turbo cars w/o them, however I may get one.

2. I know I'm going to do an internal wastegate.

3. I already have a front mount intercooler.

4/5. The return line and pump are probably going to happen with this build and I may also use a fuel pressure regulator too.

6. I am planning on a clutch and a diff but those are not part of my turbo build, I was planning on that before I decided to go turbo.

I'm not planning on boosting like crazy, I just want something that can get me to my power goal. I'm not planning on winning any races or anything fancy like that. The Yaris just feels like it needs more power so I'm not always going through the gears to get the car up to speed.

My price is for a turbo build, not tuning and all the supporting mods. I am pricing this like a turbo kit. The average turbo kit is 3-3.5k with piggyback EMS and intercooler.

[cali yaris]

1. A BOV is not a must for a stage 0/1... there are plenty of stock turbo cars w/o them, however I may get one.

Right. On some STOCK cars, which is not what you are building.

Um, since you already got an intercooler (see #3 above), you are building a stage 1. Right?

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event.

[kou]

Just buy the hks turbokit for the xa/xb and modify the downpipe $2700

[PETERPOOP]

Originally Posted by kou

Just buy the hks turbokit for the xa/xb and modify the downpipe $2700

don't forget to tell him that noone has done this yet.

[Parmas]

RacerFreak why don't you try to find a 1NZFE TRD edition if you want only 130HP. It comes turbo standard with factory management and wiring.

Check this link http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2166

I know ppl who done this in our country and reached 150HP without much complications

[Nexus1155]

What pump are you talking about?

and what FPR? I thought these were returnless fuel systems or whatever, need to modify it to use an FPR?

Also you can just run off the internal wastegated pressure, usually around 7-9 psi in most cases. Look up an SR20 turbo, it will fit the GT28 flange.

You can go to the junkyard and get a recirculating valve which you should get or even a BOV from a stock turbo DSM with the piping as well that comes with it. Very easy to take off and get.

If you are running intercooler piping, might as well, right?

[RacerFreakXXX]

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

don't forget to tell him that noone has done this yet.

I know no one has done this, not even the xb guys. I am better off with chinese turbo kit than I am a hks kit. I'm going to go with garms well built parts and get custom piping locally. Also, buying an engine is out. If I had a garage I would just buy a spare engine and build it and then swapp it, but I'm going to still consider it if I can find a place to do the swapp.

For EMS... I'm probably going to go with greddy, seeing as it has been proven.

In all honesty I am going to get a greddy RS BOV unless I cant fork up a coupple hundred dollars.

For turbo's, I think Garrett is going to be my best bet for the price. If I can find a new turbo for $400-$500 then maybe, but I doubt I will find a dual ball bearing water/ oil cooled T25 turbo for that much.

Garm if/ when you make a downpipe, you should have the option to put on a bung for a/f sensor.

[cali yaris]

My downpipe will have TWO bungs. One for managemenet, one for a gauge, and tuners love an extra bung for dyno day.

[RacerFreakXXX]

Nice... look at you thinking ahead, making life easier. I don't get why manufacturers make parts so expensive but they still need to be modded. I look forward to your kit... will you be making piping for a front mount intercooler?

[RacerFreakXXX]

what are your opinions on the 16g turbo? I was thinking something small like this:

http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/pro...cat=166&page=1

[rob323]

A Mitsi 16G turbo is a 300+ hp turbo (both small and big 16g's) and don't really start to get efficient until 17+psi. Waaaaaay too big for your application.
Even a standard 14b Mitsubishi Galant VR4 (DSM Talon/ Eclipse) turbo is a 200hp turbo and might be too large considering it's designed for engines with a capacity of 2litres. A TD04 off an auto version would be better suited but you would need to find one second hand and have it rebuilt just to be safe.

I can't think of any Mitsi turbo's that would be "ideal" for your application and would probably stick with a bb Garrett, or, dunno if you get them over there, one of the small IHI turbo's off a late '90s Subaru WRX, they were quite small and guys use them as big upgrades on Starlet GT's over here as they are plentiful and cheap.

[Parmas]

4/5. The return line and pump are probably going to happen with this build and I may also use a fuel pressure regulator too.

Just noticed that I missed that you must upgrade your fuel rail to accept the return line.

[RacerFreakXXX]

I'm going with the perrin fuel rail, as listed in my first post. My main concern are the oil likes and vacume lines and all of that little stuff. Should I tap the oil pan or buy an aftermarket?

[cali yaris]

We don't really have an oil pan, it's more of a plate; you would have to tap the lower block (like I did). Or get a deeper oil pan, but then you will have the worry of clearance issues when driving around.

[H3LlIoN]

IIRC one of the turbokit manufacturers makes an oil pan cast with a hole for turbo oil, so check greddy, hks, etc...it's billed as for the xB, but engine is same.