Who has installed Megan Coilovers?

[kapo]

DId you used another nut on top metal spacer?

[Thirty-Nine]

Originally Posted by kapo

DId you used another nut on top metal spacer?

No. I beileve that spacer is actually used as a stop for the only nut that I used.

Did you use the stock strut mount bearing?

Also, you don't by chance have any pics of the shock towers after the install?

[Thirty-Nine]

Out of curiosity, can someone explain to me why the shock pistons on my Megans raise up through the towers, but the OEM ones don't?

[staticorex]

My OEM ones do with just the new springs.

[Thirty-Nine]

Okay, I finished the project last night! A big thanks to all that helped, especially 03Z33! It's very simple once you figure out what parts you need! I couldn't believe it, really. This whole thing could've been avoided and done (with hand tools and two people) in around an hour or less if I had known exactly what parts I needed.

Here's the deal (I took a pic, and will post it later): For the front Megan struts, you must reuse three stock parts: The strut bearing, the nut on top of the bearing, and the rubber support assembly (The big black rubber donut on top). Basically take the strut as you recieve it from Megan, take the stock strut bearing and press it in place (yes -- use the little metal sleeve, too), tighten it down with the stock nut, and then put the stock rubber support on top of that. Then you can install it as you would any other strut assembly. I'll compose a detailed write up later.

I drove home (with a ton of tools and stuff in my last night), and I will say this: even on the "full soft" setting, these are very stiff. However, the car now feels like a go kart! The steerig response feels so much better! Although these are probably not for people looking for a soft ride, they should be great for autocross and/or track use! I can't wait to do my favorite twisty road with these. It feels like a racecar!

I'll give you more info next time I'm able to drive it more.

Cliff notes
Use OEM strut bearing, nut and large rubber donut on top
Ride is stiff, improved steering feel

[kurokoma-kun]

CONGRATULATIONS!

Man what a struggle. I've been interested in your progress, but could not help.

I'll look for your writeup, but think if I get these I am having the mechanic install.

[nqd]

Originally Posted by kurokoma-kun

CONGRATULATIONS!



I'll look for your writeup

+1

[nqd]

cograts man...hope you enjoy those coilovers...ill prob be picking them uup too later on...

so..an hour project became, what like a 3 or 4 event?

[CKMotorsport]

megan brand. is it made in TAIWAN or china?

[Thirty-Nine]

Originally Posted by CKMotorsport

megan brand. is it made in TAIWAN or china?

Taiwan.

It's actually made by this company http://www.bcec.com.tw/. The quality seems very high. Just remember: just because something is made in Taiwan doesn't mean it can't have good quality control.

They also allegedly make A'pexi's stuff, too.

[CKMotorsport]

Originally Posted by Thirty-Nine

Taiwan.

It's actually made by this company http://www.bcec.com.tw/. The quality seems very high. Just remember: just because something is made in Taiwan doesn't mean it can't have good quality control.

They also allegedly make A'pexi's stuff, too.

I tried D2 brand (taiwan brand) on my Honda Jazz. but i do not recommended for you guys to use it (for street or circuit use). first, it's very stiff for street use,the shock absorber very hard even after I put it to soft, but it's too soft for track use. 2nd, tried to use it for practice on the track probably 4 or 5 times. shock absorber starts leaking.

so I decided to buy Japanese brand (J's Racing) the shock absorber made by CRUX Engineering, it's the best coilover kit i ever tried. I use it for Practice and Race for the past 2 years, and still in good condition until now (never been overhauled).

after you tried this kit can you give me the review. because after what's happen, I never trust any taiwanese product. but I heard megan in this forum a lot, so I'm just wondering "is it a very good product or just their low price?"

thanks

[Thirty-Nine]

Yeah, I started it it at 11:00am on Sunday. Got the rears done in about an hour (after trying to figure out which OE parts I needed to use). The fronts took 3 days!

What I don't want to do is give the impression that these are difficult to install. They are not. What was difficut for me (I'm no engineer) was determining what parts from the OE struts needed to be reused.

Now I know that, I could probably do the entire install in 3-4 hours (which includes taking off all of the stuff in the engine bay).

[dsc_pat]

do you have mechanic experience ?

[Thirty-Nine]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

do you have mechanic experience ?

I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've done suspension installs on several cars before including two xBs, which is why I figured I wouldn't have a problem with this car.

I can't stress enough that the install is NOT HARD. What was tricky was finding out what OEM parts needed to be used, which is NOT listed in any literature. However, now you all know!

Originally Posted by CKMotorsport

after you tried this kit can you give me the review. because after what's happen, I never trust any taiwanese product.

Well, I wouldn't judge an entire nation's products based on one bad experience.

Let me get some seat time in this car, and I'll let you know if it's too stiff. I want to crank the dampning up to see how stiff this thing really can be.

[kapo]

Thirty-Nine.. maybe you know..

1. to lower or raise the car.. we need to turn the cylinder? or the top spring perch (as your drawing)? can you measure from the bottom until you touch the threaded cylinder please? also, that inside from the bottom there is not thread... is not a problem that if you turn the cylinder?

2. if you don't adjust the stiffing (thats a word?).. starts in 0 (cero) from factory?

[Thirty-Nine]

Originally Posted by kapo

Thirty-Nine.. maybe you know..

1. to lower or raise the car.. we need to turn the cylinder? or the top spring perch (as your drawing)? can you measure from the bottom until you touch the threaded cylinder please? also, that inside from the bottom there is not thread... is not a problem that if you turn the cylinder?

2. if you don't adjust the stiffing (thats a word?).. starts in 0 (cero) from factory?

1) To lower/raise the car you turn the entire cylinder. You loosen the bottom red stop, and then turn the entire shaft accordingly. If you adjust the upper perches, you're going to increase/decrease your suspension travel, which is a whole nother adjustment.

2) I don't know where the factory settings were. I turned mine all the way to "S" or soft.

[kapo]

how you turn the cyliiinder? by hand i guess.. but I can't do it.. :(

[Thirty-Nine]

Undo the bottom red perch. If it still doesn't move, take a jack and put it under the conrol arm to take some tension off. I found that worked. I was having a hard time turning mine, too at first. This helped. And yes -- you do it by hand (wear gloves!).