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Old 05-26-2020, 02:18 PM   #1
Desircustoms
 
Drives: 06 Yaris RS MT, BMW E83 6-MT
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Jeff's DIY turbo build

Long story short, I bought a turbo Yaris a few years ago, crashed it a month later due to a sticky drum and my stupid driving. I loved it because it was fun and cheap on gas, it's usually one or the other.

I've decided to learn the basics and do it myself instead of paying someone to work on my build. 3 years ago I had no idea how it all works. I studied a lot, bought a couple welding machines, and now I'm anxious to put it all together...

I'm going to start with the downpipe and the whole exhaust system. I've started welding the 180 bend, I'm going to bring the car inside the garage tonight or tomorrow and start dismantling the exhaust.

I'm hoping to have her ready in a week or so. I say a week because I've never welded an whole exhaust system, and I'm only halfway on my 1st 80cf argon tank, I don't have a lot of hours with the tig torch but I love it already. The original plan was to mig weld everything, but I scratched that plan and bought the cheapest tig welder at my favorite store "PA" on black Friday 2019.

The car is also starting to be somewhat of a rust bucket, so I'll fix all the rust and give her a fresh paint.

I found a Garrett gt1752 off a 2003 Saab 95 yesterday at the scrap yard, no shaft play, looks like it has low mileage. I already have a Mitsubishi td04 13t from a Subaru that I'm going to use 1st.

I'll post a part list eventually, I'll install everything, and post some pictures along.
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Old 05-26-2020, 05:43 PM   #2
CrankyOldMan
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
 
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Good stuff!

The orientation of the last two pictures threw me off, made me want to ask what lathe model it was. =D
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Old 05-26-2020, 09:23 PM   #3
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^ + 1 Will be following for sure.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Good stuff!

The orientation of the last two pictures threw me off, made me want to ask what lathe model it was. =D
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
^ + 1 Will be following for sure.
Lol, I wish I had a lathe, one day... I took the pictures with my phone, and sometime the orientation changes when I upload on here....

The gt1752 was a waste of time, I can't even unbolt the exhaust side, will bring it back to the scrap yard ASAP for a store credit... And they're less reliable than the td04, newer Saab 95s have them, with the same t25 flange, will wait for another one to come up at the scrap or Kijiji.
For sure I'll try the Saab td04 15t, maybe a 19t upgrade whenever I find something.

Hopefully I'll have time to weld the wastegate inlet tomorrow, it's cast, so it'll crack if I don't preheat it to 500f, I have a spare exhaust/outlet flange in case I mess up.
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Old 05-31-2020, 01:26 AM   #5
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Finished the exhaust outlet flange earlier today, it was quite a task... Not pretty welds, but they should hold up, will probably give the welds a last touch/pass.

I fought with the internal wastegate flapper for awhile, I should have used a rotary tool with a small cutting wheel but I was impatient and did all the cutting with a grinder.
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:11 PM   #6
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I'm finally almost done, welded to the whole exhaust, routed the intercooler piping and intake piping.
The exhaust was not as easy I thought it would have been, the car is on ramps so I had to mark and take the whole exhaust off in order to tack weld every pieces I added, I didn't not feel comfortable tacking from under the car.
The intake was really hard to route, I'm afraid it will break one of the brake lines going to the rear, will post pics soon.
I want to finish this asap, get her out of the garage and start tuning.

Only thing left is injectors, spark plugs, all the vacuum hoses, and tapping the block, I'm thinking of doing like Peterpoop, but maybe .5 inches lower. Let me know what you think about about his tap location.
https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...t=31838&page=2
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Old 07-11-2020, 05:06 AM   #7
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Been driving her for the last 3 days, everything seems fine. Bleeding the coolant system was ridiculously long, probably 2x2hrs session, most likely because of the added turbo coolant lines.

I ditched the 45 degree 10an aluminum fitting for a 90 degree fitting from home depot, I was worried the axle might rub against it or worse. I really think the best spot for the drain hole is where "kou" drilled his.

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...t=38453&page=3

I had to trim/shave off some aluminum off the compressor housing as I couldn't screw in the o2 sensor. The sensor's wires are rubbing against the compressor, I hope it'll be ok.

The .32" spark plugs and 1zz injectors are great for this. Been doing some live data records and I've seen around 12 afr @33k rpm. I'm scared to go past 4k until I can add more fuel.

Will do a proper write up and total budget whenever I have more time on my hands, I wish we were on a 36hrs planet, never enough time here, lol.
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Old 07-11-2020, 06:22 AM   #8
06YarisRS
 
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Wow! What progress! This is a true diy build. Amazing what you've done. I am away from home atm, so can't see the pics as well as I'd like too - small cell phone screen. I was at a car meet of sorts last evening and spoke with many knowledgeable folks. I think my decision to move away from the AEM F/IC is pretty much solidified. Although my car runs well, I want better closed loop fueling control. However, your lamda values look really good. I see 0.82. Is this at full throttle boost or partial throttle? I'm really anxious to hear how you make out with the FIC. I spoke with a tech at ECUMaster, and it seems that I can run one of their standalones along side my factory ECU, having the car's ECU control everything other than the engine.

Again, super impressive build. I think it was very smart to add the turbo coolant lines. I was lucky, in that mine burped fairly quickly.

Edit: I am still on the stock Yaris fuel pump and have good fueling right up to full boost. It was the first thing I asked my tuner about. At Wot (when the car does go into open loop)and about 7-8 psi, I read 11.5:1.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 07-11-2020 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 07-12-2020, 05:15 AM   #9
Desircustoms
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Wow! What progress! This is a true diy build. Amazing what you've done. I am away from home atm, so can't see the pics as well as I'd like too - small cell phone screen. I was at a car meet of sorts last evening and spoke with many knowledgeable folks. I think my decision to move away from the AEM F/IC is pretty much solidified. Although my car runs well, I want better closed loop fueling control. However, your lamda values look really good. I see 0.82. Is this at full throttle boost or partial throttle? I'm really anxious to hear how you make out with the FIC. I spoke with a tech at ECUMaster, and it seems that I can run one of their standalones along side my factory ECU, having the car's ECU control everything other than the engine.

Again, super impressive build. I think it was very smart to add the turbo coolant lines. I was lucky, in that mine burped fairly quickly.

Edit: I am still on the stock Yaris fuel pump and have good fueling right up to full boost. It was the first thing I asked my tuner about. At Wot (when the car does go into open loop)and about 7-8 psi, I read 11.5:1.
Thanks! It took more time than i hoped for, but it was worth it...

I paid 250cad for the fic 6, i hope it'll be good enough until i decide to do a motor build. I had an e-manage ultimate on the other turbo yaris i had, but i didnt have a clue how it worked 4 years ago, wish i had at least saved the files on there, it was a great tune.

The 0.82 lambda is right before the 62sec mark, where i paused the "time cursor", it seems to add fuel when i go off throttle. At least the ecu is still advancing ignition timing so that should mean its not sensing any detonation... I'm waiting on my boost gauge, should be here next week. I googled how to convert the MAF readings "g/sec" into psi, but no luck, it seems you cant convert mass flow rate into pressure, lol. I wish id took advanced physics in high school.

Here's a couple more different screenshots from my laptop.

I thought you had the closed loop figured out from what ive read a few weeks ago on your water/meth thread...
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Old 07-12-2020, 09:08 AM   #10
06YarisRS
 
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Thanks for the high res pics. I will check them out in detail shortly.

My experience with the FIC is that no matter what you do, the ECU seems to figure out what's going on and learns out the changes. I studied the o2 mapping tuning videos, but could never get an actual 'linear' fuel trim corrections as per voltage input. The miniscule changes I made in o2 voltages ultimately result in significant AFR swings. It seems as it's gotten worse. I think if I could collect good data on trims per voltage change, I could then accurately adjust the fuel table and it might fool the ECU. But, it seems that with tiny input voltage changes, the ECU tends to got to +20. Now, it may be that the car's OBD2 is not reporting correct fuel trims. My car's OBD2 AFR readings also differ from those of my dedicated wideband.

I do have a method of driving the car that results in smooth power application, but if I'm, say cruising on the highway with cruise control on, start climbing a hill, when boost reaches a certain level (in the 3 - 4 psi range), I may get some mild bucking with AFR swings. It doesn't like staying in a particular boost range for more than a few seconds. If I slowly keep depressing the gas pedal with steady acceleration, it won't buck at all. This may correspond with a load or TPS position that triggers the car into open loop, or I've just hit a section of the fuel map the car likes better. I think that if I spent more time and did more troubleshooting, I might be able to get a more refined tune. I'm sure that my water injection system is adding another variable as well. Everyone I speak to that knows this stuff says go standalone. I met up with a bunch of guys this past Friday. There was one guy in particular that I spoke with that really spelled things out for me. He has a 1990 BMW with a 370Z engine swapped in and he's running the ECUMaster Classic. He had owned the FIC and shortly thereafter went standalone. He said that if I went standalone, I would ask myself why I hadn't gone that route in the first place. Taking the car's factory ECU out of the equation makes things easier. The BMW guy said it's as simple as telling the car. "at this load and boost, I want 12.0 AFR and that's what you get...every time". He did also refer to the F/IC as "dangerous". I don't know that that's true as I've read about many successes with the F/IC. Have you seen the "Fried Rice Banzai" material? Here is an example: http://friedrice.blogspot.com/2014/0...h-o2-maps.html Here is the AEM produced video that I followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCeMaLC0Dqo

In some ways, I've become tired of trying to work with the FIC. Someone smarter, such as yourself, might be able to figure it out and get it working perfectly. All of the above said, I did find a vacuum leak yesterday, repaired that but haven't road tested the car yet. I'm not buying a standalone computer tomorrow, so I may do some more fiddling with the FIC. I loved the build and love the car, but I think I was very lucky and things went very well for the most part. My attention span for the tuning part - with the FIC - seems shorter than with other aspects of the build. I may just be at the point where throwing some $$$ at it is the solution. I also have lots to learn about data logging and interpreting the data collected. You have Tech stream which looks pretty comprehensive to me. I'm going to message you through your profile with a question. Thanks!

EDIT: I'm thinking I'll try doing some data logging in the next day or two. I recently got my wideband (Prosport with Bosch 4.9 sensor) feeding into the F/IC software. I'll see if I can post up my logs. Maybe you could glance at them and see if anything pops out at you.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-12-2020, 01:50 PM   #11
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You definitely need to do some logging to see what's really going on. The bucking seems to be a fuel delivery issue, but I'm far from an expert, the logging would help you figure it out, without it it's all guessing...

Yes I've read fried banzai's blog, great info... He says that closed loop tuning is not easy and that you have to disconnect the battery often so your LTFT don't affect your tune.

When I'll have some tuning experience, I'll be able to shim in more.

And how much of a difference between the OEM sensor and your wideband? I'm hoping I can tune with only the OEM sensor.
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:46 AM   #12
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
You definitely need to do some logging to see what's really going on. The bucking seems to be a fuel delivery issue, but I'm far from an expert, the logging would help you figure it out, without it it's all guessing...

Yes I've read fried banzai's blog, great info... He says that closed loop tuning is not easy and that you have to disconnect the battery often so your LTFT don't affect your tune.

When I'll have some tuning experience, I'll be able to shim in more.

And how much of a difference between the OEM sensor and your wideband? I'm hoping I can tune with only the OEM sensor.
I did some logging last night. Unfortunately, the F/IC only produces a notepad document and the alignment is terrible. Columns do not match data at all. I tried word wrap, it got worse. I did open it in Excel, but it actually combined columns and the formatting was brutal. This is pretty sad. It's basically unusable. I may invest in TechStream, like you did.

My wideband and OBD2 are, on average, one full point off. For example if the aftermarket wideband (Prosport Pro gauge, with Bosch 4.9 sensor) reads 14.7, the OBD2 (via Torque) will read close to 13.8.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-17-2020, 06:18 PM   #13
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Thanks Jeff for directing me to AEMLog in the AEM resources. Here's a pic of some very brief data logging. I only displayed 3 variables this time. It's SO much easier than trying to interpret data in notepad or excel format. You can also do an overlay. This will help me, no doubt, in future tweaking of my tune. I didn't see MAP or boost as an available data point. That would be most helpful in comparing boost to AFR, for example.

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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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Old 07-19-2020, 02:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Thanks Jeff for directing me to AEMLog in the AEM resources. Here's a pic of some very brief data logging. I only displayed 3 variables this time. It's SO much easier than trying to interpret data in notepad or excel format. You can also do an overlay. This will help me, no doubt, in future tweaking of my tune. I didn't see MAP or boost as an available data point. That would be most helpful in comparing boost to AFR, for example.

Great to hear! I'm starting to get frustrated with this fic, it doesn't seem to even communicate properly to the ECM... I'm starting to understand why people say it's a piece of shit, anyhow I don't think I can deal with this for more than another week.
Car hesitates whenever I go full throttle, and Afr don't seem to be muchly affected by my fuel map.
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:05 PM   #15
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For the 1st time I opened the gauges on the aem software and saw that the rpm was not accurate, so I calibrated the rpm and TPS and it seems to have fixed the hesitation on full throttle, it did hiccup once after the calibration but not as much as before.

I think its the maf readings, will try to do a maf map, but I only have "stock engine" live data from techstream and it doesn't show voltage of the maf, only gm/sec.
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Old 07-20-2020, 12:49 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
For the 1st time I opened the gauges on the aem software and saw that the rpm was not accurate, so I calibrated the rpm and TPS and it seems to have fixed the hesitation on full throttle, it did hiccup once after the calibration but not as much as before.

I think its the maf readings, will try to do a maf map, but I only have "stock engine" live data from techstream and it doesn't show voltage of the maf, only gm/sec.
You should be able to see MAF in and out voltages in the FIC software. Did you clamp your MAF at 5V? I really think there are much better alternatives to the F/IC. I'm still considering an ECUMaster ECU. Have to do more research first though.
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Old 07-20-2020, 01:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
You should be able to see MAF in and out voltages in the FIC software. Did you clamp your MAF at 5V? I really think there are much better alternatives to the F/IC. I'm still considering an ECUMaster ECU. Have to do more research first though.
I clamped to 5v, it gave me a maf low voltage CEL, still runs ok, i think I need to add more fuel on the TPS map for better quick throttle response... I'm really hoping the fic can help make decent power safely...

The ecumaster seems like the way to go, saw a video on hpacademy last week on how to cold start tune using the ecumaster black, for the price it's the best standalone outhere according to hpacademy, check on YouTube...

I was thinking of buying a 2009 rs and eventually do a motor build on the 06, but now I'm thinking of buying fiesta ST and tune it with hptuners, seems like a more viable option.
Will keep my 06 project but will stay conservative with the mods, I'm not sure if I want to pour a bunch of money on the yaris anymore, so hopefully I can make this fic workout.
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Old 07-20-2020, 04:04 PM   #18
06YarisRS
 
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Originally Posted by Desircustoms View Post
I clamped to 5v, it gave me a maf low voltage CEL, still runs ok, i think I need to add more fuel on the TPS map for better quick throttle response... I'm really hoping the fic can help make decent power safely...

The ecumaster seems like the way to go, saw a video on hpacademy last week on how to cold start tune using the ecumaster black, for the price it's the best standalone outhere according to hpacademy, check on YouTube...

I was thinking of buying a 2009 rs and eventually do a motor build on the 06, but now I'm thinking of buying fiesta ST and tune it with hptuners, seems like a more viable option.
Will keep my 06 project but will stay conservative with the mods, I'm not sure if I want to pour a bunch of money on the yaris anymore, so hopefully I can make this fic workout.
Yeah, the F/IC is probably really a bandaid solution. My friend in Oregon installed the kit with the F/IC in his Corolla. He swears by it. Says that it works flawlessly. I'm going to talk with ECUMaster again this week and maybe my tuner too.

If decent AFRs are the only safety net needed, then I'm ok in that respect, I guess. I added my water injection as a safety measure. I really want to remove the car's ECU from fueling inputs. Standalone looks like the way to go. However, did you see the EcuMaster Det 3? Apparently it can control injectors in batch fire mode. It is a piggyback, but if it could take complete control of fueling, it might be a cheaper option that the Black or Classic. Would have to do some more research there.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
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