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Old 09-12-2020, 07:54 PM   #37
06YarisRS
 
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Welding started

I discovered something interesting and probably explains why this rotted so badly. I pulled a large piece of foam (like mattress foam) out of the wheel well. This quarter panel had been impacted and repaired. Despite the holes drilled in the door jambs for rustproofing, the oil soaked into the upper part of the foam, none making it down to where it was really needed.







First brace



Heavy gauge strip welded underneath. Two more braces will be added toward the outer edge. They will be welded on to the two inner pieces of metal visible. All the factory supports that I'm welding on to are very strong. They just rotted at the very bottom where water pooled.



Second brace



Rebuilding pinch weld seam. The outer panel skin will form the outer edge of the rocker seam. I will mold in water drains.



Temporary primer. After the two additional braces are added, I am going to weld an approximate 3 ft long piece of heavy angle iron behind the rocker pinch weld seam. This will tie into just forward and aft of the repair area. In it's current state, it's already strong enough to support a jack under it. With the two addirional braces, the angle iron behind the pinch seam and the outer panel skin, I could probably lift the entire car from this point.

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-13-2020 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:34 AM   #38
06YarisRS
 
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Rebuilding continues

My welding has improved a lot. I now have 4 heavy gauge braces that connect the rocker pinch weld with the inner substructures. Shortly, I will be able to weld on the outer quarter panel skin that I cut out. I will weld tabs on the inside edges of the rectangular hole I cut out, then fill the gaps from the cut lines. Will add pics to this post as I make progress.



All welds will be ground down, primed and sprayed with bedliner.



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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-13-2020 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 09-13-2020, 04:34 PM   #39
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This is an impressive level of rust repair. I commend you on your efforts. 👍

I'm not sure I would have gone ahead and bought the car knowing that. But on the positive side it was a great deal to be had if you could fix it. 😎

I plan to get more experience welding. It's was something I intended to get a degree for in school after I finished up automotive classes.
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:58 PM   #40
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarsofcarma View Post
This is an impressive level of rust repair. I commend you on your efforts. 👍

I'm not sure I would have gone ahead and bought the car knowing that. But on the positive side it was a great deal to be had if you could fix it. 😎

I plan to get more experience welding. It's was something I intended to get a degree for in school after I finished up automotive classes.
Thanks, man! Yeah, although I did a fairly thorough investigation, the extent of the damage wasn't readily apparent. I really had to start busting pieces off to see what was involved. I might just have passed on it too, had I known. Had I been able to demonstrate the extent of the damage, I probably could have had it for considerably less. That said, I have always wanted to do this kind of repair and now I am learning. I like the challenge of figuring out how to go about providing an adequate support structure. Kind of like a low grade engineering. In one way, it's almost been worth it as now I have a very thorough understanding of the inner construction of this generation of Yaris.

The power train and suspension etc seems in pretty good shape. I don't think I'd make a dime on it if I was going to flip it. I do have to replace the rear axle bushings and that will be a bit of a job for sure. But, when this job is done, most of the major stuff will be complete. Next summer, likely, the car will get a repaint.

I don't regret the purchase, especially since it's an RS trim. I am partial to those and they are pretty rare around here.
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Old 09-14-2020, 08:16 PM   #41
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Almost ready to re-weld outer quarter panel skin

Final outer support strip. Each end just past the support strip will serve as a water drain. The areas will be ground and filed smooth, treated with phosphoric acid, primed and painted. I did a little mockup of the 'drain caps' that I will fabricate and weld on. This will keep water and crap from entering underneath but allow easy draining from inside. There is another support strip welded behind what you see in this pic. There will be about 3/16" of jacking thickness when this is done. I may even weld another strip behind at the jack point. Overkill, but I have the metal and it only takes a few minutes.



Out panel attachment plate. I have two options when re-installing the panel piece that I cut out:

Option 1: Tack weld it to the support piece, then apply seam sealer on the outside.

Option 2: weld a strip to the quarter panel piece and drill holes in it, then apply a bead of seam sealer between it and the support plate and rivet it together. The upper portions of the panel piece will be tack welded, welds ground down and then a thin layer of body filler applied. I think I may go with option 2.



Just to check the integrity of the repair, I jacked the car on the repair. It is solid as a rock. The entire inner area will be saturated in Fluid Film or similar before I button it all up. This may be another reason to go with Option 2 above as I'd hate to start a fire in there welding the final quarter panel seam. The beauty of the RS is that the side skirts cover everything, so any painted rivets and seam sealer would be invisible anyway.

Some more bracing:

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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-15-2020 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 09-16-2020, 08:34 PM   #42
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Buttoning things up

This was a very difficult welding job due to the fairly large gap between the patch and the hole. I basically had to weld a small blob on each side of the crack (cut line) and then join the blobs. The patch is extremely solid. I ground the weld nubs down, degreased the metal thoroughly, then squished in and smoothed off some JB Weld. Unfortunately, I ran out of JB Weld, so will pick some more up tomorrow. The final job will be to attach the patch panel to a piece of angle iron which will be welded to the pinch weld. I think I'll put a bead of seam sealer on the angle iron and rivet the bottom of the patch panel to the angle iron. This part only needs to be securely attached and does not have to offer any structural support. When the JB Weld cures, I'll sand it down and decide whether or not I'll skim the repair with body filler. It may not need it since the car has the RS side skirts.



My rustproofing gun arrived today, so I will press that into service once all the repairs are done. I'll start with a liberal application of used ATF, then after it soaks in to all the cracks and crevices, I'll spray in some thicker stuff, probably Fluid Film.

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Old 09-18-2020, 02:04 PM   #43
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oh my god - i've seen guys let otherwise mint classic cars sit and rot because they needed LESS work done like this - but heres this yaris getting super-re-fortified and ressurected - pretty sure once you get it on the road its gonna come to life like herbie/christine cuz of all the love it got
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Old 09-18-2020, 02:56 PM   #44
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Quote:
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oh my god - i've seen guys let otherwise mint classic cars sit and rot because they needed LESS work done like this - but heres this yaris getting super-re-fortified and ressurected - pretty sure once you get it on the road its gonna come to life like herbie/christine cuz of all the love it got
Indeed. The time and effort put into this is nothing short of amazing.

It is red, like Christine.
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Old 09-18-2020, 03:55 PM   #45
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Be sure to give us your impressions of that gun. I know you will. Does not review very well for applying higher viscosity material.
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:21 PM   #46
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohms View Post
oh my god - i've seen guys let otherwise mint classic cars sit and rot because they needed LESS work done like this - but heres this yaris getting super-re-fortified and ressurected - pretty sure once you get it on the road its gonna come to life like herbie/christine cuz of all the love it got
Haha! Yeah, I think I've gone a little overboard. This has been a great learning experience for me and should prove useful in the future in other projects. I guess this little car can't say it isn't loved. Lol.
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:26 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leegamer View Post
Indeed. The time and effort put into this is nothing short of amazing.

It is red, like Christine.
Thanks, Leegamer!
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:30 PM   #48
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Be sure to give us your impressions of that gun. I know you will. Does not review very well for applying higher viscosity material.
Will do. I too read that it didn't spray FF very well. If it doesn't, I'll either heat the FF or thin it down with - as recommended by Fluid Film - some vegetable oil.
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Old 09-19-2020, 04:15 PM   #49
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Undercoating/Rustproofing Gun Review

One word review: Crap!

Ok, so I'll blither on a bit about it... My theory is that the hose diameter is too large. The gun gurgles and spits. We have the same kind of gun by a different manufacturer in our school shop and it has much narrower tubing. It sprays beautifully and uniformly. I think what's happening with this one is the air pushes past the oil/product and sort of airlocks. I'm going to downsize the fitting and see if it works, but I'm not optimistic that it will make a big improvement as I still have the tip that's designed for the larger tubing. If you cycle the trigger on and off, you can get a spray of product, but it's not uniform and it has a tendency to splatter. I only tried a mix of motor oil and transmission fluid on my neighbour's truck, so no experience yet with a thicker product. Oh well, I guess that's what I get for cheaping out. Should have spent the extra $30.00 - $40.00 and got the better one.

I'll have some pics of the final rocker repair soon. I'm getting close to priming it. I'll put some rockguard on it, let it cure and then start dumping in the rustproofing. I'll probably do a combination of spraying with the crap gun as well as a few cans of FF I have and maybe also my extractor pump (ATF).
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:49 PM   #50
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More grinding and JB Weld skimming

I am getting ready to sand everything, prime it and apply the bed liner.

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Old 09-23-2020, 01:13 PM   #51
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What's going on with the RS Restoration saga?
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Old 09-23-2020, 01:24 PM   #52
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What's going on with the RS Restoration saga?
I'm guessing not a whole lot since schools are now back in session. That, and the past few days no doubt prepping for the arrival of Teddy.
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Old 09-23-2020, 09:06 PM   #53
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Hello gents! It is true...school is back in session. However, enthusiasm remains high, while time is sparse. Next job is to drop the rear axle and replace the bushings. I can't for the life of me find the second bush that I'd bought way back, so I'm awaiting the arrival of the second. After that, I'll attack the few bubbles on the rear quarter panels as well as a few small door dings. The full repaint will happen during this upcoming summer, but I hope to have a good chunk of the bodywork done before the snow flies. I think I'm going to go with a single stage Urethane this time as it's a solid color paint - not metallic. Other than that, I believe, all that remains is the seat slider fix and the cleaning, freeing up and greasing of the rear hatch key lock. Oh yes, and the passenger side axle (or just boot) replacement. I'll do an estimate of costs so far below.

Car $1000.00
ebrake cable $80.00
rear drums and pads, hardware kit ~$90.00
door catch $10.00
axle $50.00
Bushings 2 x $40.00 $80.00
Various shop supplies ~$60.00

Anticipated costs:
Driver's seat track assembly $35.00
Paint, primer and supplies ~$300.00

I'm not even going to think about the number of hours that will ultimately be spent rebuilding this little buggy. It's been really fun so far.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-23-2020 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 09-27-2020, 04:04 PM   #54
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Another Issue

I checked behind the engine as I thought I heard a very slight exhaust noise. Well, indeed the exhaust manifold needs replacing. Fortunately, I have one. Getting the manifold off is going to be quite a job.

Check out the gobs of muffler cement or epoxy whomever repaired this used. Shameful! This is after I pulled great chunks off.



Wiper tray removed. Glad to say that I'm a pro at doing this as I did it during my swap, my turbo build and during my coilover installation.



Thr right upper stud came out fairly easily with several applications of penetrant and then some heat applied.







Upper center bolt came out with the same process.





Upper left stud came out fairly easily as well.


Here is where the fun begins...

The two lower bolts are going to be very difficult. I got a socket on the lower right bolt nice and tight but the socket just spun.

I attempted to weld first a nut, then a bolt to the manifold bolt. Because of the limited space and the curvature of the welder gun, I couldn't get good contact. First I tried grinding to bare metal to weld to. I used my pneumatic die grinder.



Hopefully there is enough bolt head left to get an extractor on. I ordered a set of socket bolt extractors which I will pick up this week. If that fails, then I'll grind off the bolt head flush and drill and use a splined or spiral fluted extractor. I also picked up a new bi-metal recip saw blade. I'm going to cut the manifold runners off to make room to work.



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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 09-27-2020 at 04:24 PM.
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