Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > DIY / Maintenance / Service
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-10-2012, 11:53 PM   #1
RUBBERDIPSTICK
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris Base Sedan
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 36
Help! Right side lower control arm removal

Help! When I was replacing my wheel bearings and damaged the boots on my lower ball joints. Long story short, I am trying to remove the lower control arms. The left side came out no problem. Right side not so much. The front bolt on the lower control arm hits the engine/oil pan before it can come out. I checked the manual and it tells you to remove a ton of stuff including the whole suspension crossmember! Thats crazy! Does anybody know of an easier way??


2007 sedan, 145,000 miles
RUBBERDIPSTICK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:42 AM   #2
RUBBERDIPSTICK
 
Drives: Toyota Yaris Base Sedan
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 36
A little more background info:

I started out this project to replace the front wheel bearings. I bought some timken bearings and figured I would take the steering knuckles to a local machine shop for the press work. In order to remove the steering knuckles from the car, it is necessary to break the lower ball joint apart as well as the steering tierod ball joint. I did this with a 'pickle fork' which damaged the rubber boots on all the joints.

So, with the knuckles off the vehicle, I took them to the machine shop and had the bearings pressed in. Iwas expecting to be able to pick up a couple rubber boots for the ball joints and be good to go. Turns out nobody sells the boots, and nobody sells the joints either. The whole control arm is only sold as a unit.

I figure no problem, it's probably time to do this anyway.

But when I tried to remove the passenger side control arm, I got stuck. The front bolt will not come out because it hits the oil pan. Has anybody dealt with this???
RUBBERDIPSTICK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 07:29 PM   #3
CoryM
 
Drives: 2009 5-door, 5-speed
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 686
I don't recall exactly how much room there is, but I would see if you could pull the engine mount bolts and carefully jack up underneath the engine (use a rubber or wood block to keep from damaging anything). I'd guess you can get enough room that way, but not sure.
CoryM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 11:38 AM   #4
Absolutely Red 12
Asshole
 
Absolutely Red 12's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 and 2013!
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
I can't help you with that specifically.
But for others doing this, the ball joint will separate with just a rap with a hammer, on the outside of the knuckle, where the ball joint stud goes through. Its not pressed, it's an interference fit. The vibration from the impact will loosen the stud.
Same goes for tie rod ends.
__________________
Cheapest DD I could find!!
Absolutely Red 12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2012, 11:44 AM   #5
Absolutely Red 12
Asshole
 
Absolutely Red 12's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 and 2013!
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Your moms house.
Posts: 392
Now on to your problem, yes the whole ball joint is available, check Rock Auto. Moog makes them. $10 each.
They are clipped and pressed.
Remove the circlip.
You can then hammer them out, and rent a ball joint screw press to put them back in.
__________________
Cheapest DD I could find!!
Absolutely Red 12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2018, 02:53 AM   #6
toyotavios_11
 
Drives: Toyota Vios
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MY
Posts: 49
i have the same problem to remove right hand side control arm bolt which is blocked by oil pan. can someone enlighten me?
toyotavios_11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2018, 08:48 AM   #7
dogsridewith
 
Drives: 2007 2-door hatchback
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: USAnotCA
Posts: 750
Cracking ball joints from steering knuckle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolutely Red 12 View Post
I can't help you with that specifically.
But for others doing this, the ball joint will separate with just a rap with a hammer, on the outside of the knuckle, where the ball joint stud goes through. Its not pressed, it's an interference fit. The vibration from the impact will loosen the stud.
Same goes for tie rod ends.
An old Chevy manual wants a big hammer head or something held against the opposite side of the knuckle before the hit. ("bucking" might be the word) Worked for me. Obviously lowers stress and bending going further through the system. Have seen mechanic just wail away w/ the hammer. (Not my current guy, who is the best.)
Today, I would probably have trouble holding the buck w/ one hand and swinging the hammer w/ the other. There may be a puller that won't hurt the boots like a pickle fork. (Pep Boys used to loan the whole tool kit for free w/ no charge on the credit card if the kit came back.)
dogsridewith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2018, 10:53 AM   #8
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,930
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyotavios_11 View Post
i have the same problem to remove right hand side control arm bolt which is blocked by oil pan. can someone enlighten me?
You need to jack up the engine slightly on the passenger side which will give you clearance to remove the through bolt from the control arm.

You will have to unbolt the passenger side motor mount to do this and use a block of wood under the oil pan when you jack it up
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2018, 03:05 PM   #9
Jason@SportsCar
 
Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
All we did was remove the trans dog bone (the mount that goes from the cross member to the trans), then you can rock the engine enough to get the control arm bolt out.
__________________
2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion
2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion
Jason@SportsCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2018, 10:26 PM   #10
toyotavios_11
 
Drives: Toyota Vios
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MY
Posts: 49
some say disconnect hydraulic mount, some day disconnect crossmember mount to jack up the engine. im so confused now..
toyotavios_11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2018, 11:00 PM   #11
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,930
More than one way to peel a banana, pick your poison.

Jason's way sounds the easiest but the motor mount is also not too hard to do either
I'd recommend starting with Jason's way, simplest and most straight forward
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2018, 11:00 PM   #12
toyotavios_11
 
Drives: Toyota Vios
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MY
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
More than one way to peel a banana, pick your poison.

Jason's way sounds the easiest but the motor mount is also not too hard to do either
I'd recommend starting with Jason's way, simplest and most straight forward
thanks for the guidance, thumbs up
toyotavios_11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 11:43 AM   #13
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
I had that problem during my 2zr swap. Put the engine back in before the control arm then couldn't get the control arm bolt in. I ended up lowering the subframe a bit. Backed the bolts out a bit on the left side and completely removed the right side bolts while supporting the subframe with a jack. That gave me enough room to get the front control arm bolt in. That was easy for me cause I already had the subframe out and knew the bolts wouldn't give me any problems.
myfirstyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 01:06 PM   #14
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,930
Quote:
Originally Posted by myfirstyota View Post
I had that problem during my 2zr swap. Put the engine back in before the control arm then couldn't get the control arm bolt in. I ended up lowering the subframe a bit. Backed the bolts out a bit on the left side and completely removed the right side bolts while supporting the subframe with a jack. That gave me enough room to get the front control arm bolt in. That was easy for me cause I already had the subframe out and knew the bolts wouldn't give me any problems.
Why did you remove the control arms for your swap?
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 01:45 PM   #15
myfirstyota
3 Yaris and counting..
 
Drives: 07 Yaris rs 3 door 2zr swaped
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 672
I removed just about everything for my swap. Im a lil odd that way lol.

I used a high mileage donor car. (Ill elaborate on that in my swap thread) Full and complete 2011 xD. Even drove it before I bought it. Anything that I thought could have been better built for the xD or was in better shape rust wise, was swapped over.

Thought i read somewhere the xd subframe was a bit stronger, it but looked identical to me. Either way, the xd subframe was was in better shape rust wise and it was swapped over aswell.

Almost everything that was reinstalled in the Yaris was hit with a wire wheel, rust converter and paint.

Only plan on this being my summer daily driver so no sense in putting rusty parts back in...my blue 3 door current daily driver... That's another story. I treat that car like a read headed stepchild. But I still maintain it. 285k and purrs like a kitten.
myfirstyota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 02:29 PM   #16
tmontague
 
tmontague's Avatar
 
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,930
I see, makes complete sense
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
tmontague is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cruise control install 2009 Yaris 3 door PeteZNY DIY / Maintenance / Service 124 09-25-2021 08:30 PM
DIY - 2009 Cruise Control for $10, without pulling the steering wheel and airbag CTScott DIY / Maintenance / Service 306 05-11-2021 11:37 AM
Cruise Control - Again! CB900F2 DIY / Maintenance / Service 47 06-17-2010 07:29 PM
Cruise control vs MPG YarisOwnersDad Fuel Economy Forum 15 05-29-2009 04:55 PM
Are the optional airbags worth it ? avenno2g7 General Yaris / Vitz Discussion 46 12-07-2008 03:40 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:51 PM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions Inc.