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10-27-2008, 09:31 AM | #19 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 266
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CTScott, thanks for the pix! I'll get a print of it and show those morons that it's not ok to assume something is fixed just by installing a new unit. |
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10-27-2008, 01:01 PM | #20 |
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Well Lita, they're not exactly morons -- the directions indicated to use the incorrect wires from the start. That's why me and Scott had created the same issue for ourselves. They did exactly what they were supposed to, it's more or less the companies fault for putting out the wrong instructions.
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10-27-2008, 01:06 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 266
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Well, I think I could call them morons considering that they immediately thought that just by changing the unit the problem would be fixed, and didn't even bother to test it after switching the unit 2 times. If they're not morons, then they are still missing something. Even if they followed incorrect instructions, after knowing about the issue and being requested to fix it 2 times, I think they should have at least tried some troubleshooting, instead of just leaving me stuck with a unit that not only has the same problem, but works worse than the first one they installed.
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10-27-2008, 01:31 PM | #22 |
╚══════════RN
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Well fortunately, all they have to do is change one simple wire over.
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10-27-2008, 02:00 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 266
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Hopefully they'll understand that, otherwise I'll try to get my money back.
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10-27-2008, 08:42 PM | #24 | |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 899
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Quote:
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10-27-2008, 08:57 PM | #25 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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10-28-2008, 12:23 PM | #26 |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 899
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10-29-2008, 05:52 PM | #27 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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i skipped alot of reading... but just so you guys know. if you lock the doors with the powerlocks (keyless or door switch), toyota has made it so that the door switch will not unlock any doors after the door has been closed. I last tried the system, it would still not unlock, even if you didn't use the switch to lock the doors, 1 min you have opened and closed the the door.
it is a security feature so that people cannot unlock the doors by sliding through the window and pushing the button. so.... if your aftermarket keyless entry is wired to the switch, then it's done wrong. btw, for those who haven't noticed. if your car come with factory power door locks. using your key to unlock from the driver's side TWICE unlocks all the doors, or passenger door with the key once locks/unlocks all the doors. and driver's side with key locks all the doors. Those are probably the wires you should wired to (my guess is those wires Scott's picture is showing us) |
10-29-2008, 09:13 PM | #28 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Correct on all accounts. And, your explanation answers the question as to why the system behaves as it does when the wrong wire is used. |
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10-29-2008, 10:05 PM | #29 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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that's because for years, see decades, keyless entries has been wired this way.. with the lock/unlock switches.
back in the days, keys did not activate the door locks. OH WELL!!!! |
11-03-2008, 01:38 PM | #30 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Deland, FL
Posts: 266
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Thanks everybody and thanks CTScott and Sodium Duck, just an update, I went to the dealership saturday because not only my issue continued with the Audiovox unit, but it had more problems, it even stopped locking at all, so I just told them to fix it or reimburse me. So they call me back like 5 hours later saying they couldn't fix it and that I will be getting a refund.
I feel better now, I'd rather not have keyless for a while than having one that aggravates me constantly. Now I just need to find a good unit to purchase once I get the refund, I'm thinking about getting not just keyless but maybe also an alarm, I'll search around the forum for additional info. Thanks again everybody! |
11-03-2008, 03:18 PM | #31 |
It's the illusion you see
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Aero Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brossard, QC
Posts: 3,888
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get a python or a viper alarm+keyless entry instead. that way, you also get a rebate on your insurance also.
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11-03-2008, 10:53 PM | #32 |
viper alarms i say are the best in my book and thats all i ever install
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12-23-2008, 10:52 PM | #33 |
I've made a post!
Drives: 95 Corolla, 94T MR2, 94T MR2 Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1
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Valet 712T Keyless Entry Install into 94'T MR2
I have come from the MR2 forums, searching the net for help on installing a Valet 712T into my MR2. It has factory security (TDS), but my TDSE security got corroded. I am trying to figure out how to wire into the factory 20pin TDS harness, since it probably has what I need for keyless entry.
I have the wiring diagrams for the 94-95 mr2's. The thing is, I have the factory alarm harness and TDS system accessible. Which means I have the 20-pin harness that connects to the factory TDS/TDSE system. Where I am lost is that the Valet 712t system has a bunch of wires that are used for unlocking and locking the doors. Here is a list of the wiring for the Kit: 712t Wiring [Pin] [Color] [Description] H1 RED +12V CONSTANT POWER INPUT H2 BLUE (-)200 mA SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT H3 BLACK/WHITE-1 INPUT DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION RELAY #87 H4 BLACK/WHITE OUPUT OF DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION RELAY #30 H5 GREEN/BLACK LOCK # 30 COMMON OUTPUT H6 WHITE/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY CLOSED H7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) H8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT) H9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) H10 WHITE (+/-)PARKING LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT H11 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT H12 BROWN (-)HORN HONK OUTPUT H13 LT. GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM H14 WHITE/BLUE (-)200 mA CHANNEL 3 VALIDITY OUTPUT H15 YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT (ACC) H16 ORANGE (-)500 mA GROUND-WHEN-ARMED OUTPUT H17 BROWN/BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED H18 RED/WHITE (-)OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2 Wiring on 20pin harness on MR2 (located in the passenger side B Panel, behind seatbelt): [Pin] [Color] [Function] [Description] 1 Blue/White Trunk Key Unlock Switch 2 None 3 Green/Yellow (FLL) Not sure but guessing lock Left Door 4 None 5 White/Red (L/UL) Not sure but guess unlock all doors 6 Grey +12V ACC 7 White/Black (E) Not sure, but guessing Earth (Ground) 8 Red/White (-) Anti-Theft Siren 9 Green/Black (-) Steering Horn 10 Black/Yellow (-) Key Unlock Doors 11 Black (-) Key Lock Doors 12 Blue/Orange (FRL) Not sure but guessing Right door lock 13 Red/Green (CTY2) Not sure but connects to Front Trunk hood switch, Engine hood Switch, and Rear Trunk Light. 14 Red/White (CTY1) Not sure but connects to LH and RH door courtesy switches. 15 Blue (KSW) Not sure but manual says unlock warning switch 16 Yellow (IND) LED light 17 Red +12V Constant Power 18 Red/Black (SRLY) goes to Starter Relay Coil/Relay 19 None 20 Red/Yellow (RTR) Retract Relay Control (Headlights and Taillights) Lastly, whats weird on the 712t is that the VIOLET and VIOLET/BLACK become ONE WIRE!!! It comes together at a fuse, then come out as VIOLET/BLACK only. Now if a reallly skilled alarm guy can tell me if I can use this harness. If so, could you tell me what wires to connect to what? Also, should I leave the factory TDS connected, while this alarm is connected? I just learned the main ECU is in the passenger Side B Panel area, while my rusted/corroded ECU is an addition to the TDS ECU. Thanks, zee |
12-24-2008, 01:42 AM | #34 |
I just want to add my story to this thread....
I had Keyless entry added to my bill as well when I purchased my brand new '08 LB Yaris. Well, turns out my dealership shunned me off to a 3rd party place to have it installed (Car Toys). While it took them forever to install it, I patiently strolled through their store and noticed I was paying $250 for keyless entry, but at Car Toys, the unit they were putting in only cost $110. So I figured something was amiss. When the guy was finally done putting my keyless in (took him just over an hour). I of course tested it out and noticed it wasn't working correctly (I push any button and nothing locks/unlocks). Long story short, I went back to Car Toys and ended up talking to the guy that did the actual install. Turns out he was a super nice guy. Why was he a super nice guy? Because he did what I wanted! After he spewed me some bullshit about how the keyless was "installed the way factory keyless was installed," I gave him a big line about how he was full of bullshit and he should fix my problem. 5 min later, he programs my remote like his own car, and how it should be done. So now I have an expensive keyless done the way I want it. When I hit the Unlock button, all doors (include the hatchback) unlock and the lights blink (inside and out). When I hit the Lock button, all the doors lock and the lights blink (inside and out). When I hit the Lock button again, The lights blink and the horn beeps. Oh, and the horn goes crazy when I hit my little yellow panic button. Cheers. |
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12-24-2008, 12:46 PM | #35 | |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 899
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Quote:
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12-24-2008, 12:57 PM | #36 |
help! my Yaris shrunk!
Drives: 12 Hot Lava iQ/07 Jade Vios Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,748
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With my alarm, only the driver side doors open. And they told me that it's for safety reasons... which if I'm only saving myself is a pretty good excuse. I have to hit it twice for all the doors to open.
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