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#235 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 gray Yaris Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3
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#236 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 gray Yaris Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3
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Thanks again for your quick response. |
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#237 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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#238 |
![]() Drives: Wife's Red Yaris 2007 AT 5D Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 4
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Missing Connections for Remote/Alarm
Dear CTScott;
I have successfully installed a 2 Way - RadioStart remote starter on a 2007 5 door HB automatic w/o inmobilizer. It does locks and unlocks the doors and starts the car. I do still have more than 17 cables to connect. That's why I need your help on finding them and if possible pictures of their location and colors. In theory as it is right now you can drive away when the car is started via remote, so I need to connect more inputs to ensure safety since the car will be driven by my wife. Questions: 1- Are the two green wires on top of the break switch a +12V signal when break is depressed? Conn A13 Pin 1 as per your DIY manual (very hard to measure voltage due to accessibility) 2- Is there any unique cable that goes to ground when any door is opened or that goes to 12V when any door is opened? 3- Ignition Input of Key Cylinder (+) Ignition wire that provides +12V when Ignition is on and while cranking the starter. Green Conn 8 Pin 1. There is already a cable from the started connected to this one. Should I tap the input to the remote to the same cable? 4- If I inject ground to Conn D4 pin 13 white wire or inject +12V to Conn 4 Pin 29 Green will either action turn on the same lights (Parking Lights)? 5- Are the Parking lights the same as Hazard lights and turning lights? Thanks! |
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#239 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring. I am installing just a keyless entry (viper 211hv)
1. For the dome light output coming from the viper harness, what wire do I tap into on the 4k connector? I looked at the Toyota wiring diagram and from my understanding it would be the pink wire. I'm still learning how to read the diagrams so it'd be great if someone with experience can confirm this for me. I know the dome light input goes to a ground so that one is easy. 2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off. 3. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? From my research my understanding is to connect it to the brown doors lock wire, is this correct? 4. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough? Thanks guys
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#240 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Got in all wired up. Unlock/lock works, dome light goes on for 1minute when unlocked.
However there is no horn when locked or when panic is pressed. I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to signal for the horn but nothing happens. My horn works fine if I press the steering wheel. Also my parking lights do not flash either. Any ideas on what I should be checking?
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#241 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Just tried to start the car. As soon as key goes to start a click is heard and all power dies. Only way to get power back on is to disconnect , battery and then the same thing will happen again.
Here is a summary of what wires I connected to what: H1/1 Red- connected to male bottom terminal in under dash fuse panel (the viper module is receiving power) so this wire is good H1/2 blue- not connected H1/3 black/white- connected to ground (works as dome light turn on/off w/ keyless unlock) H1/4 black/white -connected to pink wire in 4K connected in underdash panel (works as dome light turns on/off with keyless unlock) H1/5 green/black -connected to brown lock wire on CTScotts guide (works because the keyless fob locks the doors) H1/6 white/black- not connected H1/7 violoet/black- connected to ground (works because lock function works on fob H1/8 blue/black- connected to green unlock wire on CTScotts guide (works because unlock function works on fob) H1/9 violet- connected to ground H1/10 white- connected to parking light (-)flask white wire in CTScott's guide on the headlight switch connector H1/11 black- connected to ground H1/12 brown - connected to black horn wire in CTScott's guide H1/13 -not connected H1/14 -not connected H1/15 Yellow- connected to the white ignition accessory wire in CTScott's guide (I disconnected it and the car still shuts off all power when you try and start it as I thought maybe this wire was the culprit) H1/16 -not connected H1/17 -not connected H1/16 - not connected only have the lock and unlock function working as well as the dome light (goes on for 1 min when car is unlocked using fob) parking lights do not flash and horn doesn't beep when locked 2x. Horn works when pressing the steering wheel button. When panic is pushed I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to set off the horns but the relay under the hood isn't triggered. When the car is turned to start a click is heard and all power is shut off from the car. It stays this way until the ecu is reset by unplugging the negative battery terminal. This seems to be an immobilizer issue that is doing this. If anyone sees an issue with my wiring or sees that I wired to a wrong wire please let me know. I'm out of town for a few days but am hoping to have the car up and running when I get back. Any help is appreciated...
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... ![]() Last edited by tmontague; 12-26-2015 at 06:26 PM. |
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#242 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
1. Dome light is the pink wire of the three wires in the connector to the lower left on page 3 (labeled: power connection) 2. For keyless entry you do not need the transponder key bypass module (or the connections for it) 3. For progressive unlocking you don't need a second output - You just have to pulse the unlock wire twice with the keyless entry system (if it supports that function. If not, you would connect the second output to the same wire as the first output). 4. I would need to see the book for the unit to verify, but unlock on ignition off should not require anything more than sensing the ignition losing power.
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#243 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
For the parking light flash, are you using the + or - flash?
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#244 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
See my comments above in red.
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#245 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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thanks CTScott for taking the time to answer my Q's. I understand where I made the mistakes now.
Can you explain to me what you mean about the horn wire? If it turns out that I have the connector that needs a + parking light pulse than what does that mean for my horn connection? What other wire would there be to tap into the horn and what determines if I need to use a different wire? Can I tap into the green ignition wire instead of the pink? Both are 12v ignition and the thicker gauge of the green makes it easier to tap with my t taps due to their sizing I'm curious as to what caused the immobilizer to shut everything down, obviously a wrong wire I tapped into but what specifically causes this? It happened when I installed my HID's as well until I put on a proper functioning ballast (the original one was defective) Thanks
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#246 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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#247 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Great, thanks
I'm assuming the black wire is the horn wire on the connector you were talking about? As for the immobilizer is makes a sound like a fuse blowing or something and instantly all power is gone as if the battery is disconnected. The car actually never starts cranking because as soon as you turn the key power goes off. The only thing that allows power again is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then it's back.
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#248 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
The second part is definitely wrong and is definitely not the immobilizer.
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#249 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I just saw your post above about the horn connector, I missed it earlier.
I think it has something to do with too much power going to the ecu and it shutting d power to not incur any damage. I just checked all my wires. My ignition and my horn were wired wrong. My parking light one was correct on the white (-) wire as I don't have the green wire it is white/black. Not sure as to why the parking lights aren't triggered. I will check the tap as my taps are rated for slightly bigger wires so it takes a little extra time to ensure proper connection. When I'm back in town in a few days i'll re tap the incorrect wires and purchase some smaller t taps. Hopefully that'll fix the issue. I recently wired in superspeed horns that must have a lose connector or ground somewhere as they sometimes work and are as of right now not working. The relay clicks so I can tell if the viper is triggering it or not. I'll have to remove the bumper and look at the horn connections once everything is done.
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#250 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Just reconnected the 3 wires properly horn now works with the second press of the lock. However my parking lights still are not blinking.
The parking lights do work when switched on, but the key fob does not trigger them to blink. I checked the t taps and they have tapped into the wires properly. Am I able to tap into the turn signals instead instead the the lights? I'd like to try that since the parking light wires don't seem to be triggering the lights. Any ideas?
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... ![]() Last edited by tmontague; 12-30-2015 at 05:23 PM. |
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#251 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Verify that your remote starter is pulling the white wire to ground to flash them. You can do a quick test by simply jumping from the white to one of the white/black wires by sticking a piece of wire into the back of the connector.
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#252 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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I'll be looking at it again tomorrow.
So if I take a wire like say a paperclip and stick it into the back of the module connector to connect the white wire to a white/black (ground) wire I should see the parking lights switch on correct? I just want to clarify before I go about troubleshooting it tomorrow Fwiw, the power shut off during start up was due to my not tightening the negative terminal when trying to start it. This caused no issue during light power load but during heav load such as the starter it caused a short and powered everything off. Same issue is seen with the corroded negative terminal or wire.
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