TANABE DF210 Spring Install [pics]

[Chris07LB]

*NOTE TO INSTALLERS*
This is just a GUIDE for the general way of doing the install. This is NOT a bible, you may find an easier way and much quicker way to do the entire procedure. Please add your notes and findings if it will be helpful to others.
Do NOT F*CKING BITCH if you dont know right from left, loose from tight!
Enjoy.

Just finished the install today.

Special thanks to C2AUTOSPL! for hooking me up!! After you see how easy this was, go ahead an order up a set from Jay.

Total time, with finding correct sizes, removing tires, jacking up, positioning jack stands, etc., was just under 2 hours, including cleanup, and taking these pictures and notes. :smile:

Your times may vary.

Before doing any spring installs, I like to measure each corner, to compare later the drop given. I was at 15" at all four corners. This is always the way I measure... bottom of wheel well, in the center to center of wheel
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=898&stc=1&d=1154133331

AFTER measurements were 13" all around!

Starting off with the easiest part first, the REAR Springs.
We will be doing both sides at the same time..
Break the lug nuts loose, then jack up the car. Position jack stands, and remove wheels.

Tools Needed for rear:
9/16 deep socket; 1/2 drive
9/16 box wrench

Remove the lower shock nut & bolt. Remember to do both sides before continuing. This will give the most "play" in the suspension, to drop the springs out.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=899&stc=1&d=1154133331
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=900&stc=1&d=1154133331

Once both lower shocks bolts are out, you can press down on the rear axle's, and the spring will just fall out.

Comparing the Tanbe DF210's to the Stock Toyota.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=901&stc=1&d=1154133331

Be sure to re-install the top rubber coil dampener, so that the spring sits in the pocket. NOTE make sure the Tanbe DF210 logo is right-side-up!!
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=902&stc=1&d=1154133331

Tanbe sends this plastic cover for the bottom of the last 4 coils. I was told its to prevent any kind of chatter, being that area is compressed so close, that the coils may rub a little. PITA to wrap it all around, but it's for the best. :smile:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=903&stc=1&d=1154133331

Rear Tanbe's installed. Tighten shock bolts, install wheels, and torque lugs to 75 Foot Pounds. Rear Complete!
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=904&stc=1&d=1154133331

Moving on to the fronts. I did one side at a time up here.

Tools Needed for Front:
9/16 socket; 1/2 drive
19mm deep socket; 1/2 drive
17mm box wrench
6mm allen key
Hacksaw

We need to remove the (2) Sway Bar end links, (2) Strut bolts, and (1) Brake bolt.
Follow the bolts with sizes marked, and remove.. any order is fine.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=905&stc=1&d=1154133331
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=906&stc=1&d=1154133331
Should say LOOSEN and tighten below..
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=923&stc=1&d=1154133638

Once all is removed, the only thing holding the strut/spring assy., is the upper nut.
Open the hood. Remove the entire windshield wiper plastic cowl. Stay with me, its easier then it looks! :biggrin:

First, the wipers need to come off. Remove the cap, and with a 9/16 box wrench, remove the nuts.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=907&stc=1&d=1154133331

Next, bend wiper arm, and rock it back and forth, while pulling straight up to remove it from cowl. NOTE, I marked the wiper and threads, to make sure I re-installed it back later in the same place.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=953&stc=1&d=1154356788

Remove these (3) plastic push pins. And just set pieces out of the way.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=910&stc=1&d=1154133881
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=908&stc=1&d=1154134052
PICTURE MISSING!
PICTURE MISSING!


Next, pry up the rubber dust cap.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=912&stc=1&d=1154134115

Under the cap is a nut holding the top of the strut assy., to the shock tower of car. Get your 17mm box wrench and loosen the nut while HOLDING the center from spinning, with a 6mm allen key.

Once loose, remove enitre assy., from car.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=909&stc=1&d=1154134115

Again, not needed, but I marked some reference points.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=913&stc=1&d=1154134115

Loosen the top hats nut a LITTLE with your 17mm and 6mm from before.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=914&stc=1&d=1154134115

Get the strut assy., in a spring compressor.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=915&stc=1&d=1154134115

Compress spring, and now you can SAFELY remove top hat, followed by the dust boot.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=916&stc=1&d=1154134115

Comparing the Tanbe and Toyota springs.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=917&stc=1&d=1154134115

Bump stop time.. You will need to shorten your bump stops, so that your not "riding the shocks" from your decrease in height.
Cut against the plastic center ring, to make a nice straight cut with a hacksaw.
**** NOTE ****
Follow your spring makers instructions, and search or call to find out how much if any needs to be cut if installing springs/struts OTHER then what is shown in this DIY.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=918&stc=1&d=1154134115

Top hat and new, shortened bump stop.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=919&stc=1&d=1154134358

Time to re-install the strut with the new Tanbe Spring, being sure to have the bottom of spring, inside the struts stamped groove.
Spring compressor not needed to install new spring. Tighten the top hat all the way (you can compress the spring assy., to see where it bottoms out).
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=920&stc=1&d=1154134358

New strut ready to install.... Reverse earlier steps,....... and installed! :biggrin:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=921&stc=1&d=1154134358
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=922&stc=1&d=1154134358

I'm loving the new stance!

Enjoy the How-Do, I hope it helps!!

[Sp33dY]

Look forward to after pics . !!!
Meaured the distance from teh guard to the center of the wheel yet? :)

One question though .... Surely chopping a 3/5 of the bump stop off isnt the best thing to do??? Ive done this once on a mates Lancer teamed with Hotbits coilovers, purely to get another 1" drop. The ride however was a lot worse with the shortened bump stop, and shocks ended up squeeking badly after a few months.

So in effect, u chopped the bump stop instead of buying shorter shocks to stop the shox from riding ... right? Any idea if there are aftermarket shortened bumpstops ? Is the ride bouncy at all?

Would u consider replacing the bumpstop with a factory item and just buying shorter shocks for better ride quality?

[Chris07LB]

Look forward to after pics . !!!
Meaured the distance from teh guard to the center of the wheel yet? :)

One question though .... Surely chopping a 3/5 of the bump stop off isnt the best thing to do??? Ive done this once on a mates Lancer teamed with Hotbits coilovers, purely to get another 1" drop. The ride however was a lot worse with the shortened bump stop, and shocks ended up squeeking badly after a few months.

So in effect, u chopped the bump stop instead of buying shorter shocks to stop the shox from riding ... right? Any idea if there are aftermarket shortened bumpstops ? Is the ride bouncy at all?

Would u consider replacing the bumpstop with a factory item and just buying shorter shocks for better ride quality?

Very tired right now, but ill answer what i can...

1. The new measurement number is posted.
2. You NEED to cut the bump stops if using the stock shocks.
3. Tanbe USA, who I spoke with today, said the DF210's were designed to work with the stock shocks, and stock sway bar links.
4. When these shocks wear out, I will replace with Koni's.

Thanks for your concerns... :rolleyes:

[spacemanoeuvres]

:clap:

you rock, can't wait for the after pics!

[Yaris_PR]

Great work and post Chris...:coolpics: I can't wait to see those pictures.:w00t:

[C2AUTOSPL]

NIce write up. This needs to be stickied. BTW, i got your lower bar here, just need to get the right box for it.

[ChinoCharles]

:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

WERE NOT WORTHY WERE NOT WORTHY

[Yaris_PR]

By the way C2AUTOSPL , need to clear your PM's, I need to ask you a question about some parts...:biggrin:

[C2AUTOSPL]

sorry....PM box cleaned.

BTW, both DF210 and NF210 now instock.

[Ran Kizama]

Nice write-up. I was installing mine earlier and the backs were a breeze. However, when doing the front I didn't need the allen wrench on the sway bar link and I also only undid the top bolt then swung it out of the way. Oh yeah, one more thing...

WEAR GLOVES

When attempting to undo the top of the front strut, I couldn't get a good feel with my gloves on. So I took them off. Upon applying pressure to my wrench, my hand slipped off and slid cleanly across that sharp aluminum cover that runs across the top of the engine bay. Blood across my engine cover and exposed bone has postponed my front spring installation until further notice.

Just a fair warning to others out there. :frown:

<- Idiot :thumbdown:

[Chris07LB]

Nice write-up. I was installing mine earlier and the backs were a breeze. However, when doing the front I didn't need the allen wrench on the sway bar link and I also only undid the top bolt then swung it out of the way. Oh yeah, one more thing...

WEAR GLOVES

When attempting to undo the top of the front strut, I couldn't get a good feel with my gloves on. So I took them off. Upon applying pressure to my wrench, my hand slipped off and slid cleanly across that sharp aluminum cover that runs across the top of the engine bay. Blood across my engine cover and exposed bone has postponed my front spring installation until further notice.

Just a fair warning to others out there. :frown:

<- Idiot :thumbdown:

Wish I was closer, Id button the front up over a beer or two for ya. :frown:

Feel better bro! :smile:

[Boo]

Just wonder.. do you need to use spring compressing tool for putting back the rear spring?

[Chris07LB]

Just wonder.. do you need to use spring compressing tool for putting back the rear spring?

Follow the DIY above, there was no mention or need for a spring compressor in the rear.. there is no strut, of shock thru the center.. Its a completely different ballgame back there.

[Chris07LB]

NIce write up. This needs to be stickied. BTW, i got your lower bar here, just need to get the right box for it.

Thanks Jay.. I look foward to getting it!!! :biggrin:

[Chris07LB]

Is everyone able to see all the pictures above in the How-To?? Just want to be sure knowone's getting an error mesasage of sorts. :smile:

[johnnyfive]

can see all pics fine, and nice job on the write up ;)

cant wait for my springs to come in :)

oh, and maybe you should update your siggy, with the new lower yaris? :)

[SamDaYarisMan]

Great job chris, glad you did the how to instead of me. You didnt miss anything. Im also very happy with mine. Ride is just a tad stiffer but car corners a whole lot better. i didnt cut my bump stops and it hasnt bottomed out yet..knock on wood.

[Chris07LB]

i didnt cut my bump stops and it hasnt bottomed out yet..knock on wood.

I only cut mine, just because over the years every car i've lowered, said to.
I called Tanbe USA just to ask and be sure, and they said to cut them as well. :iono:

[Chris07LB]

can see all pics fine, and nice job on the write up ;)
cant wait for my springs to come in :)
oh, and maybe you should update your siggy, with the new lower yaris? :)

Thanks Johnny. :smile:

As soon as I figure out this damn camera, ill do a nice update with my new look I have coming.... :wink:

[Moose]

I only cut mine, just because over the years every car i've lowered, said to.
I called Tanbe USA just to ask and be sure, and they said to cut them as well. :iono:

I've lowered countless cars, and I always cut the amount off of the bumpstop that the car is being lowered (cut 1.5" off of the bumpstop if you are lowering the car 1.5"). That way, the strut travel stays exactly the same as it was while stock springs were on the vehicle, and leads to longer strut life, and thus more time to save up for Koni reds. :laugh:

[paultyler_82]

I second that, when you're working on your car ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES! I learned that nasty lesson the hard way when I changed the knock sensor on my I30 without removing the upper intake manifold... apparently it has this nice sharp little seam edge that's hard to see and razor sharp, I'll leave the rest to your imagination... Anyway, I used to have a nice pair of Mechanix gloves but I tore them to hell so I purchased a pair of Damascus cutproof gloves from the Galls Law Enforcement catalog at work they're meant for officers to use on patdowns, but they do really well for protecting against all the sharp little things lurking in an engine compartment as well. Oh! And looking good with the new springs, I've never used Tanabe, guess I may have to start!

[Boo]

Nice write up :thumbsup: .. I really wish my car can come soon.. so I can install a new set of spring and strut.

[Chris07LB]

BTW, I wore gloves, just not while holding the camera. :wink:

[Chris07LB]

MODERATORS (if any exist on this forum ever!) PLEASE MAKE THIS A STICKY!

[Tanabe USA]

An excellent writeup Chris! Please let us know your initial impressions on the ride quality, handling, etc!

Out of the three new sub-compact cars (Yaris, Fit, and Versa) the Yaris exhibited the best handling qualities and ability to easily rotate when we tested all 3 during R&D. The car should be a bit more fun to drive now :D

[Chris07LB]

An excellent writeup Chris! Please let us know your initial impressions on the ride quality, handling, etc!

Out of the three new sub-compact cars (Yaris, Fit, and Versa) the Yaris exhibited the best handling qualities and ability to easily rotate when we tested all 3 during R&D. The car should be a bit more fun to drive now :D

My pleasure! :smile: I enjoy doing How-To's that will help the community here.

I am getting ready to leave for work soon, which is a 120 mile trip each way, so I will report back tomorrow with my results.

Side note, the wife took the Yaris out before, rather then the Nissan Armada, and she said she LOVED the way it drove!

Chalk one up to the new ride quality of a slammed Tanbe Yaris! :biggrin: :clap:

[OxyG3nE]

many people told me to not cut the bumpstop ... i dont know what to do ... if i dont cut it .. is it bad? ;p

[Ran Kizama]

many people told me to not cut the bumpstop ... i dont know what to do ... if i dont cut it .. is it bad? ;pDepending, it could ride on the shock which will drastically decrease the lift span of it. If you're really worried about it, save up and get some TRD or Koni shocks to accompany your springs. :smile:

[slvryaris]

many people told me to not cut the bumpstop ... i dont know what to do ... if i dont cut it .. is it bad? ;p


Thats the bottoming out we are talking about in the other forums. Lowering your ride brings the shocks and everything down also. Cut the bump stops to keep from slamming the suspension on the bumpstops. They will still do their job just cut off as much as you lowered the car as explained earlier. This is what I have always been taught.

[Chris07LB]

many people told me to not cut the bumpstop ... i dont know what to do ... if i dont cut it .. is it bad? ;p

Well I could explain until i'm blue in the face... seems im almost there anyway on this subject.

When in doubt, call the manufacturer of your springs. :smile:

I have been doing this for a looong time, and this is how I (and others that also replied) do it as well with lowering springs.. choice is yours though. Find out, and do it right the first time, or else you will have great practice at removing everything again. :clap:

[OxyG3nE]

ok thanks :p ill do the way u said to! :) wont ask u anything again lol i know i can be annoying sometime :p

[slvryaris]

Well I could explain until i'm blue in the face... seems im almost there anyway on this subject.

When in doubt, call the manufacturer of your springs. :smile:

I have been doing this for a looong time, and this is how I (and others that also replied) do it as well with lowering springs.. choice is yours though. Find out, and do it right the first time, or else you will have great practice at removing everything again. :clap:

Practice makes perfect :thumbup: It is really looking good. Do you have any problems making that kick ass turning radius???? If it doesnt rub with the stock 15's then 17's on mine should be fine..Great job and notes are excellent:bow:

[Chris07LB]

ok thanks :p ill do the way u said to! :) wont ask u anything again lol i know i can be annoying sometime :p

LOL.. no not at all. Its just sometimes I feel like a broken record. If I took the time to do a How-To, I wouldn't do ya's wrong! :smile:

[Chris07LB]

Practice makes perfect :thumbup: It is really looking good. Do you have any problems making that kick ass turning radius???? If it doesnt rub with the stock 15's then 17's on mine should be fine..Great job and notes are excellent:bow:

Turning is still "kick ass."

No rubbing WHAT-SO-EVER! :thumbup: Full lock, and going over a bump, or up a driveway, no rubbing of fenders, or scrubbing of bumper.

Thank you, it took a while, but IMO, the How-To came out great. :smile:

[Sp33dY]

Chris07LB ... only just realised ud updated page #1 with after exterior pics .... Looks nice and low! Just wondering if you are able to measure the car at the lowest point underneath ? I dont know about the US, but in AUstralia a car cannot be less than 100mm at the lowest point. ;) Am just trying to consider my options for when my sedan eventually comes. Cheers!

[Chris07LB]

Chris07LB ... only just realised ud updated page #1 with after exterior pics .... Looks nice and low! Just wondering if you are able to measure the car at the lowest point underneath ? I dont know about the US, but in AUstralia a car cannot be less than 100mm at the lowest point. ;) Am just trying to consider my options for when my sedan eventually comes. Cheers!

Not a problem... Ill go out to the garage......give......me.....a........minute...... . :cool:

[Chris07LB]

Not a problem... Ill go out to the garage......give......me.....a........minute...... . :cool:

Here ya go... tape tells it all. :biggrin:

[OxyG3nE]

inch or centimeter?

[Sp33dY]

6 inch = 15cm! That still way higher than it looked in the pics on page 1! I'd of thought part of the undercarriage or side chassis sills/frame would sit lower than the front bumper! Thanks Chris :)

[Chris07LB]

6 inch = 15cm! That still way higher than it looked in the pics on page 1! I'd of thought part of the undercarriage or side chassis sills/frame would sit lower than the front bumper! Thanks Chris :)

Crap, there is the lower plastic "skid plate" that does hang a bit lower... its the plastic pannels that keep junk from coming up into the engine bay.

[07WYarisRS]

What about needing a front end alignment?

The last car I installed struts/springs on was my 88 beretta and it needed an alignment badly when I was finished.

[Lizardboy]

Chris07LB, how is the ride compared to stock? That's my only concern. I know it'll be harsher, but how much harsher?

[slvryaris]

Here ya go... tape tells it all. :biggrin:

SWEET. I measured mine today stock and I have almost the same exact measurements on the S. and from the front ground effect from the ground is 8 almost 9 inches. So if lowered it would be almost 6 to 7 like your LB. I thought that was weird.

[johnnyfive]

got my springs in today, long work day tomorrow, but ill try and sneak out early and throw them on, otherwise ill have measurments, and photos of them on the S sedan sunday after noon :)

[slvryaris]

got my springs in today, long work day tomorrow, but ill try and sneak out early and throw them on, otherwise ill have measurments, and photos of them on the S sedan sunday after noon :)


Right on. I got my wheels and everything now. Just waiting to put them on. Let me know how it goes and we definitley want to see some pics. I wanna see how low these things are gonna ride.

[johnnyfive]

install on the S Sedan is done, with one thing to add. If you have ABS you will need to desconect the abs sensor clip from the rear torsionbar to get the travel needed to remove the rear springs (the sensorline on the front is removed with the breakline clip)
the clips are attached just infront of the brake drums, and use a 10mm bolt
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/johnallar/absclip.jpg

another side note, wear gloves...i have always thought that "gloves were for wussys"?... and have always prefered the greater feal of hands on working. but i got a fairly serious cut in my palm when a wrench sliped removing the top nut, and hand slid onto the sharp surface of the wiper cowel area (not bone revealing though :thumbup: ) would have probably worked better if i was using a box wrench with a droped box (not sure how to explain it) instead of using a combination wrench with just the slightly angled box end.

but 4 stiches later and the job is done, and the bottom of the front lip sits just 5.5" from the roadway, get full lock to lock turning, and no tire rub at speed, or on rough road, and the stance looks 100 times better

before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/johnallar/06-10-06_2047.jpg

after:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/johnallar/08-06-06_1840.jpg

next thing on my list is buying a pair of mechanics gloves :)
ohh, and then rims :)

[Lizardboy]

install on the S Sedan is done, with one thing to add. If you have ABS you will need to desconect the abs sensor clip from the rear torsionbar to get the travel needed to remove the rear springs (the sensorline on the front is removed with the breakline clip)
the clips are attached just infront of the brake drums, and use a 10mm bolt


another side note, wear gloves...i have always thought that "gloves were for wussys"?... and have always prefered the greater feal of hands on working. but i got a fairly serious cut in my palm when a wrench sliped removing the top nut, and hand slid onto the sharp surface of the wiper cowel area (not bone revealing though :thumbup: ) would have probably worked better if i was using a box wrench with a droped box (not sure how to explain it) instead of using a combination wrench with just the slightly angled box end.

but 4 stiches later and the job is done, and the bottom of the front lip sits just 5.5" from the roadway, get full lock to lock turning, and no tire rub at speed, or on rough road, and the stance looks 100 times better


next thing on my list is buying a pair of mechanics gloves :)
ohh, and then rims :)
So what is the ride like? How much harsher is it than stock.

[Chris07LB]

Will be updating original post with my ONE WEEK, 600 Mile later review with AFTER pictures, of the Tanbe DF210's.

Stay tuned. :cool:

[ChinoCharles]

Hot.

[Chris07LB]

< > BUMP 4 Updated AFTER Pics in Original Post < >

[03Z33]

Just finished mine tonight... thanks for the helpfull write up! :thumbsup:

I actually didn't have a 6mm allen key that can fit under the metal tray, so I ended up removing the wiper motor and metal tray to get full access to the strut cap from the top... it doesn't take very long at all and I was able to quickly pop the struts out using the impact :smile:

Pics coming soon. :biggrin:

[slvryaris]

Just finished my NF drop up yesterday with the 215/40/17 tires. There has been no rubbing at all with just me in it. Me and a friend installed them and if we didnt bs all day it probably would have took about an hour and a half. Chris the write up was very very very helpful and was crazy cause it was like word for word. Here is an after pic.

[Chris07LB]

Just finished my NF drop up yesterday with the 215/40/17 tires. There has been no rubbing at all with just me in it. Me and a friend installed them and if we didnt bs all day it probably would have took about an hour and a half. Chris the write up was very very very helpful and was crazy cause it was like word for word. Here is an after pic.

HOTT YARIS BRO! :eyebulge:

Glad the How-To was useful... I enjoy doing them. :smile:

[03Z33]

Just finished my NF drop up yesterday with the 215/40/17 tires. There has been no rubbing at all with just me in it. Me and a friend installed them and if we didnt bs all day it probably would have took about an hour and a half. Chris the write up was very very very helpful and was crazy cause it was like word for word. Here is an after pic.

Looking good! It's funny that we both ended up installing them on the same day :biggrin: Your drop actually looks about the same as the DF210's on my Hatchback... and the Axis wheels fit the car VERY Well :w00t:

[manborn]

DF or NF for s sedan? 1st priority is ride. so which 1?

also with these springs, what tire/wheel setup is best for no rubbing even with 4 seats used (170lbs per person)?

[paultyler_82]

if the ride comfort is 1st priority, go with the NF's

[vodkalush]

Just finished my df install (well about an hr ago....) nothing like putting your yarr back together with a halogen lamp..

I'll snap some more pics tomorrow morning and post them.

[Chris07LB]

Just finished my df install (well about an hr ago....) nothing like putting your yarr back together with a halogen lamp..

I'll snap some more pics tomorrow morning and post them.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

[vodkalush]

Pics of before and after (your ognna have to deal with my crappy after pics due to rain...)

[FoEKuZ]

^^^^^

lookin sharp dood, lookin sharp...:headbang:

[vodkalush]

thanks :thumbsup:

[Lizardboy]

Vodkalush, how much harsher is the ride compared to stock?

[vodkalush]

it is a little rougher, but the handling improvement makes up for it.

and honeslty I dont notice all that much, as its alot more fun being able to take turns at 60+ :smile:

[Lizardboy]

it is a little rougher, but the handling improvement makes up for it.

and honeslty I dont notice all that much, as its alot more fun being able to take turns at 60+ :smile:
Cool! I haven't been able to decide between the DF's or the NF's. I use the car to commute about 90 miles roundtrip 5 days a week. It's nearly all freeway driving though so maybe I won't notice too much either.
Thanks!

[FoEKuZ]

it is a little rougher, but the handling improvement makes up for it.

and honeslty I dont notice all that much, as its alot more fun being able to take turns at 60+ :smile:


im with vodka..the ride is rougher a bit..but it looks badass...

and making hard turns aint shyt either....

[Lizardboy]

im with vodka..the ride is rougher a bit..but it looks badass...

and making hard turns aint shyt either....
Yeah, I hear ya. The only thing I can't stand about my car is the fender gap.

[FoEKuZ]

Yeah, I hear ya. The only thing I can't stand about my car is the fender gap.


Fender Gap...It was the first thing that had to go...my two cents for you....it doesnt matter what you choose.. nf or df....as long as its dropped.

with the df's though, i have had to be EXTRA careful on dips..and actually have to pay CLOSE attention to the road when driving...

[Chris07LB]

Cool! I haven't been able to decide between the DF's or the NF's. I use the car to commute about 90 miles roundtrip 5 days a week. It's nearly all freeway driving though so maybe I won't notice too much either.
Thanks!

I have a 120 mile round trip, all highway, and its perfect. :smile:
Go get a set, and install 'em yourself, its C-A-K-E! :thumbup:

[Lizardboy]

Fender Gap...It was the first thing that had to go...my two cents for you....it doesnt matter what you choose.. nf or df....as long as its dropped.

with the df's though, i have had to be EXTRA careful on dips..and actually have to pay CLOSE attention to the road when driving...
Dropping it is definitely my next upgrade. One way or the other. I got the windows tinted first(kept me alive in the Palm Springs heat of the summer), then got the air horns so I wouldn't be run out of my lane again! Now I just wanna lower it and I'll be good for a while. I'll probably just wait a while to upgrade the intake and exhaust.

Fender gap SUCKS!!!

[Lizardboy]

I have a 120 mile round trip, all highway, and its perfect. :smile:
Go get a set, and install 'em yourself, its C-A-K-E! :thumbup:
Alright! You guys sold me! I'll drop her with the DF's! They're cheaper anyways! :smile: She's gonna be DANG sexy!!! I'll just have to be a little more careful when we take her camping the next time, driving in the dirt. LOL!

[FoEKuZ]

Alright! You guys sold me! I'll drop her with the DF's! They're cheaper anyways! :smile: She's gonna be DANG sexy!!! I'll just have to be a little more careful when we take her camping the next time, driving in the dirt. LOL!



good to hear....:clap: :drinking:

[Lizardboy]

One more question guys! When you put on your DF's did you upgrade your shocks? I thought I read a thread somewhere on here that with the DF's you should really upgrade the shocks since they would be compressed more than with the stock springs or even the NF springs.

[slvryaris]

Nope... Consult Tanabe for any questions you may have. Or ask Chris who has talked to them directly. They are cake to install and will save you some good money.

[Lizardboy]

Nope... Consult Tanabe for any questions you may have. Or ask Chris who has talked to them directly. They are cake to install and will save you some good money.
Will do. Thanks!

[slvryaris]

I have the NF springs on mine and the stock shocks perform ok still. I am sure that it does cause some premature wear but not enough right off hand. My NF's feel like I am floating on a cloud. I would dare to say that my NF's feel better then the stock suspension.

[Lizardboy]

I have the NF springs on mine and the stock shocks perform ok still. I am sure that it does cause some premature wear but not enough right off hand. My NF's feel like I am floating on a cloud. I would dare to say that my NF's feel better then the stock suspension.
Better than stock? That's sweet! I guess I'll take a chance with the DF's. I'm hoping that if they're too stiff for me I'll be able to sell them on Yarisworld or on Ebay if need be and downgrade to the NF's. I think it's time for me to MAN-UP!:laugh: I've got the tint that I can't see through at night and the horns that make grown men jump when I put them on blast! Might as well keep going! :biggrin:

[Chris07LB]

it wont be too stiff, ecpically with the stock struts/springs. It works perfect with the stock components.

I on the other hand, would still like to get firmer shocks/struts and finish the rest of my suspension mods (sway & rear strut bar).

[YamilR]

it wont be too stiff, ecpically with the stock struts/springs. It works perfect with the stock components.

I on the other hand, would still like to get firmer shocks/struts and finish the rest of my suspension mods (sway & rear strut bar).


I installed my DF210 today. HOLY CRAP WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! I swear they feel better than stock. I use this DIY a couple of times as a reference and couldn't be any better. I also installed a Tanabe Medallion exhaust and AEM CAI I will take pics tomorrow if I get my rims installed, so Thank You Chris07LB
:headbang:

[Chris07LB]

so Thank You Chris07LB
:headbang:


Welcome buddy! :thumbsup:

I bet she sounds mean with your intake / exhaust combo huh? :drool:

[YamilR]

Welcome buddy! :thumbsup:

I bet she sounds mean with your intake / exhaust combo huh? :drool:
She does have a "pair" :burnrubber: right now

[johnnyfive]

just a update after i have had DF210's on my sedan for some time now.

definetly love the ride, and the handeling is wonderful, and the stance is very nice, would have liked the body to sit a little lower to the ground, but what are you going to do?

but the one issue i have had with them is that when i have someone in the back seat the tire deffinetly scrubbs on the plastic inside the wheel well, not a big enough issue for me to do any cutting, but it is deffinetly noticable, and sometimes scares people in the backseat...

but overall i would recomend DF's to anyone that asks me :)

[sillyyaris]

I just got some Tanabe NF210 for my sedan and my friend and I have already installed the rears. We're having problems installing the front. I was wondering how tight the nut is on top the nut that is compressing the spring? We can't loosen it or nudge it. We're even tried holding it down with an allen but the nut still wont move. Any suggestions?

[mrrock]

any feedback on the TRD or the Eibach springs compared to the above

[vodkalush]

I worked at the damn thing for prob 20mins... but then again I dont have the best tools and I was working with a spot light; If you where to take off all the plastic pieces around the windshield wipers I bet it wouldnt make things easier.

[YamilR]

If you where to take off all the plastic pieces around the windshield wipers I bet it wouldnt make things easier.

If I remember right Theres only 2 pieces plus the wipers

[ChinoCharles]

The TRD springs are nice... they aren't quite as low as, say, the NF's, but they still provide an ample drop. The shocks drastically change the handling. Say goodbye to any hopes of a smooth ride, say hello to cornering 90 degrees at 30-40 MPH. Fun stuff.

[the_saint]

I just got some Tanabe NF210 for my sedan and my friend and I have already installed the rears. We're having problems installing the front. I was wondering how tight the nut is on top the nut that is compressing the spring? We can't loosen it or nudge it. We're even tried holding it down with an allen but the nut still wont move. Any suggestions?
You do have the spring compressed right? If not, you NEED to compress the spring before removing the upper strut mount from the strut.

Just remove the strut and spring together and take it to a NAPA or some other autoparts store that has a strut spring comperssor, or maybe a shop can do it for you. Either should charge you around $40 per strut to R&R the spring.

[hystria]

nice DIY :smile:

do you guys had to (partially) remove the etire wipper support to get access to the bolt on the shock tower ? (pic is for a hb canadian model)

[hystria]

any idea how to remove this 17mm nut ? Can't put the 17mm socket and the allen key in the same time as the nut is "deep" :iono:

[Chris07LB]

Look at my pictures again.. i didnt remove anything but the plastics out of the way, and a long 17mm box wrench and long allen fit just fine...

It is a bit of a pain to get the right angle, and bite, but after a bunch of baby step turns, its DOES go tight or loose all the way. :thumbsup:

[hystria]

however the normal 17 box wrench doesn't fit down to the nut, as the nut sits deep down in the black metal part around it... dit you used a deep offset box wrench :iono:

[Chris07LB]

however the normal 17 box wrench doesn't fit down to the nut, as the nut sits deep down in the black metal part around it... dit you used a deep offset box wrench :iono:

Make sure you have your jack under the side you are working on, with some pressure on it. This will compress the spring/strut, and make removing the nut a lot easier.

Look at my pictures, its a regular box wrench. Maybe take a trip to the store, and look for something thats better/deeper then what you're using. :iono:

[hystria]

thanks, indeed that whas too deep, dont know why but it was... even with the side completely jacked. finally I put a normal socket and grip it veeery solid with the wisegrip then turn it - that worked :smile:

just to help a bit, when removing the whipper arms, a nice idea is to tap on the bolt that retains the arm while pulling with the other hand on the arm - this should make it easy

[Kaotic Lazagna]

planning on getting DF's for my S. i mainly use my car for transportation (freeway most of the time), so DF's would be a good choice, right? keep in mind, i do have 3 passengers with me at times with some luggage in the trunk.

[vodkalush]

ummm, after the springs got "warn-in" I seem to get some rubbing at times with a full trunk, crap in the back and front seat passanger.... but as long as I go over bumps slowly (say in and out of some parking lots, missing pot holes) everything seems fine for the most part.

[07typeS]

Hey guys I just recently installed the nf's and they turned out great, handling is improved ride is just a tad stiffer than stock, and it looks 10 times better, and even better once i get some 17's on it. I had some things to add to the How to as well.......

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually
2. Before undoing the shock bolts there is what looks to be a vacuum line bolted to the arm.....If you look at picture 7 you will see a black threaded stud next to aluminum looking clip, unbolt the vacuum line from the arm because the line will get real tight when you undo both shock bolts...

Front
1. Yes you can reach the top bolt with just undoing the trim and wiper blades.......but i undid that plus the motor and metal bracket that goes across the back side of the engine bay...free'd up a lot of room and made it very easy....

the back took 45 minutes which included opening up the springs and grabbing all the tools i needed, very simple.....

the front took a bit longer, always with a strut mounted spring. Once you get that first one done you know exactly what to do on the second one......

Chris07lb, if you want to add any of this to your tutorial by all means, and hope its ok i referenced to one of your pictures........the write up was great and helped me out.......

anyone in socal need any help whether its verbal or literally a hand, let me know.......

I will work for beer lol....

[Nimble]

Hey guys I just recently installed the nf's and they turned out great, handling is improved ride is just a tad stiffer than stock, and it looks 10 times better, and even better once i get some 17's on it. I had some things to add to the How to as well.......

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually
2. Before undoing the shock bolts there is what looks to be a vacuum line bolted to the arm.....If you look at picture 7 you will see a black threaded stud next to aluminum looking clip, unbolt the vacuum line from the arm because the line will get real tight when you undo both shock bolts...

Front
1. Yes you can reach the top bolt with just undoing the trim and wiper blades.......but i undid that plus the motor and metal bracket that goes across the back side of the engine bay...free'd up a lot of room and made it very easy....

the back took 45 minutes which included opening up the springs and grabbing all the tools i needed, very simple.....

the front took a bit longer, always with a strut mounted spring. Once you get that first one done you know exactly what to do on the second one......

Chris07lb, if you want to add any of this to your tutorial by all means, and hope its ok i referenced to one of your pictures........the write up was great and helped me out.......

anyone in socal need any help whether its verbal or literally a hand, let me know.......

I will work for beer lol....


I think that "line" is your ABS, and most of us do not have that, but good point either way.

[Chris07LB]

Rear springs
1. Position the jackstands as posted in the picture and worked real well for me was positioning my jack underneath the center of the arm and jacking it up or down to my needs, rather than each side individually


Read your owners manual.. its is said to NEVER jack up the rear of the car, by the center of the beam, connecting both rear wheels.

[07typeS]

lol dude i put a block of wood across the whole arm, forgot to mention that.......that simulates what the car is doing on the ground so its no big deal........i can agree not to have all that stress on the center but i had it spread evenly.......

and thanks for the info nimble, yea i didnt remember seeing that step in the how to so i looked and saw that he didnt have the line but had the stud for it......

[OgDogg]

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

[Chris07LB]

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

No. You have to use it to at least remove the old springs from the struts... not needed so much to re-install the shorter Tanabe springs.

You can rent one from your local parts store for 10 bucks. Do it the SAFE way, get a spring compressor.

[largeorangefont]

No. You have to use it to at least remove the old springs from the struts... not needed so much to re-install the shorter Tanabe springs.

You can rent one from your local parts store for 10 bucks. Do it the SAFE way, get a spring compressor.


If you have air tools you can get the stock front springs off without a spring compressor. Have a friend secure the strut on the ground with his foot. Give yourself about 15-20 feet in case anything goes flying, and make sure no one is standing in front of the strut. Use an impact gun to remove the strut nut. The spring will pop off about a foot, and some of the little parts may scatter, just keep an eye on everything. I did mine this way and the nut rolled away. everything else was right there.

Use common sence and safety and you will be fine without a spring compressor. If you are stupid, using hand tools, or don't have the proper room to do this, get a spring compressor.

Ashley

[Chris07LB]

Do you think this would be possible without a spring compressor?

$10 .vs. risking getting hurt. Your choice.

[07typeS]

yea chris07lb is right........i think i bought my spring compressors for like 20 bucks at harbor freight and have paid for themselves no doubt......

that whole holding onto the top of the spring works but you better hope you trust the guy holding it, make sure the spring is going to slip, lots of things to worry about.........

but you definately dont need it putting the spring back together, theres almost no compression, theres a little.....but hardly any....

[FoEKuZ]

$10 .vs. risking getting hurt. Your choice.



paid $40.00 at auto zone for the spring compressor...when i took it back, they refunded my money... :smile:

[07typeS]

paid $40.00 at auto zone for the spring compressor...when i took it back, they refunded my money... :smile:

lol stickin it to the man baby..........too funny.......its actually a good tool to have, especally if you got a lot of friends that are into cars.....

["G"]

Nice write up, 2 things real quick. That's the incorrect way to measure ride height. Also are you sure that is a 9/16" & not metric ? Or you just not have the correct metric size ?

[Chris07LB]

Measurement was a guide to show a before and after.

And if you search around, thats how its done all over the place..

Bottom of center of fender, to the center of wheel.

YES, if will vary from Yaris that come with 16's or guys running aftermarket larger wheel setups, but like mentioned, it was to gauge the drop on your car, during your install.

[BokChoi]

just did the install today but im hearing a very high pitched noise. thought it was the brakes at first then i realized it was coming from something else. what did i do wrong?

[Chris07LB]

No idea. Doesn't mean its directly related to your spring install.

Only thing I can think of is, on the passenger side, when you removed the strut, did you let the spindle flop out and down away from the car's wheel well?

This happens sometime, but with our car, the shaft will pop out.. chances are it didnt happen, because you would notice a problem right away once you put the car in gear.

[BokChoi]

could it be that i didnt firmly tighten the nut above the bushing. my bushings are seated a little bit above the metal, they were seated firmly on the metal with the stock springs. is this normal?

[Chris07LB]

Thats normal after the spring install.

..... not the noise, the top cap space.

[BokChoi]

ahhhhh what do you think i should do?

[Chris07LB]

Well being none of us did the install, or are there to hear the noise, I dont know what to suggest to you.

[07typeS]

That high pitched noise, is it a metal on metal sound? do you hear it constantly? do you hear it every 1 wheel rotation? do you hear it when the cars running only, or in gear as well? Some of those answers may help.

[BokChoi]

i believe it is only coming from the passenger side. its a very high pitched squeak that happens when the car is moving slow either in drive or reverse. when i get to higher speeds the sound stops. i dont know how to describe the sound. it is very very high pitched and loud sounding almost like a car with bad power steering.

[Chris07LB]

See if you bent your dust cover while working that side. You may have bent it just enough to be touching the rotor slighty.

Im thinking here... im thinking... hummm...

Your belts are all on the passenger side as well..

[BokChoi]

ill have to wait until 2morrow to diagnose the problem, thanks for the info.

[BokChoi]

problem fixed!!! the dust guard was rubbing against the rotor just as Chris had predicted!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[brickhardmeat]

Chris is the MAN.:thumbsup:

[Chris07LB]

Glad to help, and glad it was something simple to fix. :thumbup:

[07typeS]

glad you got it fixed. I had that same problem on my brothers older accord. It was just so old and the metal got so flimsy that I just took it off. It was a very annoying sound, that I do remember.

[Chance]

Thanks, great instructions.
I used Sprint performance springs (claimed 1.75 inch drop) and the car actually rides better than before. I will post pic soon.

[Slummy]

DIY was a great help. just a note' i found using a deep offset box end wrench worked very well for the removal of the strut tower bolt.

Thanks, B.

[MrJester]

I would agree with that if only I could find a shop that sold them I have checked everywhere around here. Freakin newbie I thought that would be an easy tool to find.

[YamilR]

I would agree with that if only I could find a shop that sold them I have checked everywhere around here. Freakin newbie I thought that would be an easy tool to find.

Let me recommend a craftsman set, lifetime warranty is a must and you have all the tools that you need. No complaints here

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Tool+Sets&pid=00933263000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Mechanics+Tool+Sets&BV_SessionID=@@@@2127946133.1179446868@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccghaddkmfellkicefecemldffidfno.0

[Chris07LB]

I would agree with that if only I could find a shop that sold them I have checked everywhere around here. Freakin newbie I thought that would be an easy tool to find.

Jester - you still need one? Ill send you one.

[churp]

I welded a rod onto the side (towards the top) of a cheap socket and it worked fine. Just gotta have a cheap welder!

[MrJester]

I mean I could use one but I got my springs installed so I am good.

[cali yaris]

THANK YOU for the diy, it was really (really, really) helpful.

Took two of us about 3.5 hours, but we messed with the plastic and metal under the hood for a while. I had to remove the metal shroud there completely to get to the top of the front strut bolt. Just went super slow and careful, I"m always afraid I'm going to break or lose something.

I would say air tools are a big plus. We used an air tool on the top front strut bolt, so we didn't need the allens wrench in there. I couldn't get a box end on there solid enough to loosen that one.

Didn't need to compress the rear springs at all (the rears as SO EASY).

Anyway, thanks again for the DIY, and the DF210's are a PERFECT drop for this car. Pictures forthcoming (it got dark while we were working...)

woo hoo, gonna go drive it around now!!

[nsmitchell]

Hey Chris07LB, you should put in your required tool the Spring Compressor. If someone (complete noob) tries to do it without one, they will get one hell of a suprise and maybe a trip to the hospital. Just my 2 cents.

[Chris07LB]

You should read the DIY again.. its not only shown in the pics, but also mentioned a few times. :smile:

This is only a "guide" to help with the install/removel process.

[brickhardmeat]

I think he's trying to call you a NOOB KILLER, Chris. :laughabove:

[Chris07LB]

:redface:

[nsmitchell]

Holy Shit! These Megan springs are excellent. I just got finished installing them tonight (pics tromorrow) and I went to fix a friends computer. Coming home I went down a road that has been torn to crap, like a 2 foot wide ditch was dug in the middle and patched really crappy. With my regular OEM springs I could only take a few seconds of my right tires riding over that crappy patch job, but with these new ones, it was like budduh. I swear I could hardly feel them. The patch job goes on for like half a mile and I paid very close attention to the feel of the road and it was incredibly smooth feeling compare to the OEM springs. :thumbup: :w00t: :thumbsup: AWESOME!! Thanks Chris and BrickHard!!!

It dropped from 26.5" (measured from ground to fender) to a little under 25". 1.5" drop like they claimed. Looks real gooooood!

BTW - I went to sears and got one of these Craftsman 17 x 19mm Wrench, Deep Offset Box End for the top strut bolt. It works like a champ!

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00944366000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

[brickhardmeat]

Holy Shit! These Megan springs are excellent. I just got finished installing them tonight (pics tromorrow) and I went to fix a friends computer. Coming home I went down a road that has been torn to crap, like a 2 foot wide ditch was dug in the middle and patched really crappy. With my regular OEM springs I could only take a few seconds of my right tires riding over that crappy patch job, but with these new ones, it was like budduh. I swear I could hardly feel them. The patch job goes on for like half a mile and I paid very close attention to the feel of the road and it was incredibly smooth feeling compare to the OEM springs. :thumbup: :w00t: :thumbsup: AWESOME!! Thanks Chris and BrickHard!!!

It dropped from 26.5" (measured from ground to fender) to a little under 25". 1.5" drop like they claimed. Looks real gooooood!

BTW - I went to sears and got one of these Craftsman 17 x 19mm Wrench, Deep Offset Box End for the top strut bolt. It works like a champ!

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00944366000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Glad you are happy with the feel. I definately prefer a stiffer, shorter travel feel over that OEM stuff. Measure in a few weeks after they settle. Have you measured from the bottom of the hub center to the fender also? Not sure what tires you are on I'll check your garage. Churp says he didn't get quite the drop that Megan advertised but he seems very please with them also. Bet you like the look better without that huge gap.

anyway your measurements add up, cool

[nsmitchell]

These springs don't feel that stiff. I have not had them on the highway yet though. Going to work tomorrow on the crappy Cary St. in Richmond should reveal a lot about these. I am also getting an alignment ASAP! Like tomorrow if possible. I'm just amazed at how they soaked up that bumpy crappy road. I'm still in disbelief. I looked at the patches, and it was night time, but I don't think a crew has smoothed them out yet. I think the springs did! I recommend these to anyone who wants a smooth ride that looks cool too. Not necessarily Megan but anything besides OEM!

[churp]

Glad to here somone else finally put them on! I think they're great but have nothing to compare to besides stock....I think they're quite a bit stiffer than stock but softer than an RX7 I have, and have never bottomed out.

[nsmitchell]

Hmm.., mine feel supple. Takes bumps better, a lot better! Very Nice! High Five!

[redyaris]

Where would one locate a 'spring compressor'? Im thinking of doing this mod. You've finally talked me into it. Can I rent one from AutoZone as a loaner tool?

And no, i'm not buying one as I will never use the freaking thing again!

[nsmitchell]

Where would one locate a 'spring compressor'? Im thinking of doing this mod. You've finally talked me into it. Can I rent one from AutoZone as a loaner tool?

And no, i'm not buying one as I will never use the freaking thing again!

Autozone will "loan" it to you by selling it to you and then refunding your ca$h when you return it. My spring compressors were brand new. I'm returning mine today. Also see of they have a deep offset 17mm wrench to "loan" to you. REALLY helps with getting the top nut off the strut. (hey, that rhymes!)

BTW - The only drawback to lowering I've seen is some rubbing on the inside of the wheel wells when hitting big bumps. But then again, what did I expect??

[nsmitchell]

I wonder if my bumpstops may be farting. Apparently you are supposed to line up the grooves to the holes... I may remove my struts and glue my bumpstops back together with Gorilla glue. Then make sure I line up the bumpstops correctly.

[WRBlue]

Nice write up, 2 things real quick. That's the incorrect way to measure ride height. Also are you sure that is a 9/16" & not metric ? Or you just not have the correct metric size ?

Theres nothing SAE on the car.

The correct sizes are 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm.

The Strut to spindle bolts and nuts are 19mm
The end links are 17mm
The brake bracket are 14mm
The top nuts are both 17mm
The cowl is held down with 10mm's

Figured I'd add that today so someone can edit the first post to make it right.

Using the SAE sizes WILL lead to rounded over bolts, especially once the car gets some age and rust...

[Chris07LB]

I will update the original post later.

[driver centric]

I wonder if my bumpstops may be farting. Apparently you are supposed to line up the grooves to the holes... I may remove my struts and glue my bumpstops back together with Gorilla glue. Then make sure I line up the bumpstops correctly.

What does the noise sound like? I've noticed a weird noise coming from my driver side when the suspension is compressed and I didn't know there was any lining up to be done with the bump stops...this may be what I've been hearing too!

[Jerkratt]

What does the noise sound like? I've noticed a weird noise coming from my driver side when the suspension is compressed and I didn't know there was any lining up to be done with the bump stops...this may be what I've been hearing too!


+1

[nsmitchell]

Mine has quieted down now, but it did literally sound like a small but powerful fart at full compression. My springs take bumps great, like speed bumps, no problems. Only a shallow dish shaped hole will make it bottom slightly. I have located the 3 places on my daily trip that caused these bottoms to occur and now I hit them a tad slower and no problems at all.

[Jerkratt]

ahah yeah i was comming back from bellvile picking up my friend and i realized if i do like 80-90 and the road changes... like rasied or lowered and the car u know like sinks and comes back up... if i slow down a bit i dont get it anymore

[driver centric]

Like you guys I've noticed a couple places on my daily commute where I can guarantee the noise will happen. They're usually like you said, a dish-shaped hole where the suspension is unloaded and then compressed. I don't feel like tearing the suspension apart to realign the bumpstop so I guess I'll live with it. At least now I know what the likely source of the noise is.