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Old 07-28-2006, 08:17 PM   #1
Chris07LB
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TANABE DF210 Spring Install [pics]

*NOTE TO INSTALLERS*
This is just a GUIDE for the general way of doing the install. This is NOT a bible, you may find an easier way and much quicker way to do the entire procedure. Please add your notes and findings if it will be helpful to others.
Do NOT F*CKING BITCH if you dont know right from left, loose from tight!
Enjoy.


Just finished the install today.

Special thanks to C2AUTOSPL! for hooking me up!! After you see how easy this was, go ahead an order up a set from Jay.

Total time, with finding correct sizes, removing tires, jacking up, positioning jack stands, etc., was just under 2 hours, including cleanup, and taking these pictures and notes.

Your times may vary.

Before doing any spring installs, I like to measure each corner, to compare later the drop given. I was at 15" at all four corners. This is always the way I measure... bottom of wheel well, in the center to center of wheel


AFTER measurements were 13" all around!

Starting off with the easiest part first, the REAR Springs.
We will be doing both sides at the same time..
Break the lug nuts loose, then jack up the car. Position jack stands, and remove wheels.

Tools Needed for rear:
9/16 deep socket; 1/2 drive
9/16 box wrench

Remove the lower shock nut & bolt. Remember to do both sides before continuing. This will give the most "play" in the suspension, to drop the springs out.



Once both lower shocks bolts are out, you can press down on the rear axle's, and the spring will just fall out.

Comparing the Tanbe DF210's to the Stock Toyota.


Be sure to re-install the top rubber coil dampener, so that the spring sits in the pocket. NOTE make sure the Tanbe DF210 logo is right-side-up!!


Tanbe sends this plastic cover for the bottom of the last 4 coils. I was told its to prevent any kind of chatter, being that area is compressed so close, that the coils may rub a little. PITA to wrap it all around, but it's for the best.


Rear Tanbe's installed. Tighten shock bolts, install wheels, and torque lugs to 75 Foot Pounds. Rear Complete!


Moving on to the fronts. I did one side at a time up here.

Tools Needed for Front:
9/16 socket; 1/2 drive
19mm deep socket; 1/2 drive
17mm box wrench
6mm allen key
Hacksaw

We need to remove the (2) Sway Bar end links, (2) Strut bolts, and (1) Brake bolt.
Follow the bolts with sizes marked, and remove.. any order is fine.


Should say LOOSEN and tighten below..


Once all is removed, the only thing holding the strut/spring assy., is the upper nut.
Open the hood. Remove the entire windshield wiper plastic cowl. Stay with me, its easier then it looks!

First, the wipers need to come off. Remove the cap, and with a 9/16 box wrench, remove the nuts.


Next, bend wiper arm, and rock it back and forth, while pulling straight up to remove it from cowl. NOTE, I marked the wiper and threads, to make sure I re-installed it back later in the same place.


Remove these (3) plastic push pins. And just set pieces out of the way.


[IMG]PICTURE MISSING![/IMG]
[IMG]PICTURE MISSING![/IMG]


Next, pry up the rubber dust cap.


Under the cap is a nut holding the top of the strut assy., to the shock tower of car. Get your 17mm box wrench and loosen the nut while HOLDING the center from spinning, with a 6mm allen key.

Once loose, remove enitre assy., from car.


Again, not needed, but I marked some reference points.


Loosen the top hats nut a LITTLE with your 17mm and 6mm from before.


Get the strut assy., in a spring compressor.


Compress spring, and now you can SAFELY remove top hat, followed by the dust boot.


Comparing the Tanbe and Toyota springs.


Bump stop time.. You will need to shorten your bump stops, so that your not "riding the shocks" from your decrease in height.
Cut against the plastic center ring, to make a nice straight cut with a hacksaw.
**** NOTE ****
Follow your spring makers instructions, and search or call to find out how much if any needs to be cut if installing springs/struts OTHER then what is shown in this DIY.




Top hat and new, shortened bump stop.


Time to re-install the strut with the new Tanbe Spring, being sure to have the bottom of spring, inside the struts stamped groove.
Spring compressor not needed to install new spring. Tighten the top hat all the way (you can compress the spring assy., to see where it bottoms out).


New strut ready to install.... Reverse earlier steps,....... and installed!



I'm loving the new stance!

Enjoy the How-Do, I hope it helps!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg AFTER 003.jpg (60.3 KB, 5774 views)
File Type: jpg AFTER 004.jpg (45.5 KB, 5600 views)
File Type: jpg AFTER 006.jpg (44.2 KB, 5509 views)
File Type: jpg Nuxen H4 007.jpg (68.6 KB, 5498 views)
File Type: jpg Nuxen H4 006.jpg (80.9 KB, 5464 views)

Last edited by vodkalush; 07-20-2007 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:37 PM   #2
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Look forward to after pics . !!!
Meaured the distance from teh guard to the center of the wheel yet? :)

One question though .... Surely chopping a 3/5 of the bump stop off isnt the best thing to do??? Ive done this once on a mates Lancer teamed with Hotbits coilovers, purely to get another 1" drop. The ride however was a lot worse with the shortened bump stop, and shocks ended up squeeking badly after a few months.

So in effect, u chopped the bump stop instead of buying shorter shocks to stop the shox from riding ... right? Any idea if there are aftermarket shortened bumpstops ? Is the ride bouncy at all?

Would u consider replacing the bumpstop with a factory item and just buying shorter shocks for better ride quality?
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33dY
Look forward to after pics . !!!
Meaured the distance from teh guard to the center of the wheel yet? :)

One question though .... Surely chopping a 3/5 of the bump stop off isnt the best thing to do??? Ive done this once on a mates Lancer teamed with Hotbits coilovers, purely to get another 1" drop. The ride however was a lot worse with the shortened bump stop, and shocks ended up squeeking badly after a few months.

So in effect, u chopped the bump stop instead of buying shorter shocks to stop the shox from riding ... right? Any idea if there are aftermarket shortened bumpstops ? Is the ride bouncy at all?

Would u consider replacing the bumpstop with a factory item and just buying shorter shocks for better ride quality?
Very tired right now, but ill answer what i can...

1. The new measurement number is posted.
2. You NEED to cut the bump stops if using the stock shocks.
3. Tanbe USA, who I spoke with today, said the DF210's were designed to work with the stock shocks, and stock sway bar links.
4. When these shocks wear out, I will replace with Koni's.

Thanks for your concerns...
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Old 07-28-2006, 09:24 PM   #4
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you rock, can't wait for the after pics!
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Old 07-28-2006, 09:41 PM   #5
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Great work and post Chris... I can't wait to see those pictures.
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Old 07-28-2006, 10:27 PM   #6
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NIce write up. This needs to be stickied. BTW, i got your lower bar here, just need to get the right box for it.
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:00 AM   #7
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WERE NOT WORTHY WERE NOT WORTHY
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:04 AM   #8
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By the way C2AUTOSPL , need to clear your PM's, I need to ask you a question about some parts...
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:06 AM   #9
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sorry....PM box cleaned.

BTW, both DF210 and NF210 now instock.
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:12 AM   #10
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Nice write-up. I was installing mine earlier and the backs were a breeze. However, when doing the front I didn't need the allen wrench on the sway bar link and I also only undid the top bolt then swung it out of the way. Oh yeah, one more thing...

WEAR GLOVES

When attempting to undo the top of the front strut, I couldn't get a good feel with my gloves on. So I took them off. Upon applying pressure to my wrench, my hand slipped off and slid cleanly across that sharp aluminum cover that runs across the top of the engine bay. Blood across my engine cover and exposed bone has postponed my front spring installation until further notice.

Just a fair warning to others out there.

<- Idiot
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ran Kizama
Nice write-up. I was installing mine earlier and the backs were a breeze. However, when doing the front I didn't need the allen wrench on the sway bar link and I also only undid the top bolt then swung it out of the way. Oh yeah, one more thing...

WEAR GLOVES

When attempting to undo the top of the front strut, I couldn't get a good feel with my gloves on. So I took them off. Upon applying pressure to my wrench, my hand slipped off and slid cleanly across that sharp aluminum cover that runs across the top of the engine bay. Blood across my engine cover and exposed bone has postponed my front spring installation until further notice.

Just a fair warning to others out there.

<- Idiot
Wish I was closer, Id button the front up over a beer or two for ya.

Feel better bro!
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Old 07-29-2006, 10:20 AM   #12
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Just wonder.. do you need to use spring compressing tool for putting back the rear spring?
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Old 07-29-2006, 01:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boo
Just wonder.. do you need to use spring compressing tool for putting back the rear spring?
Follow the DIY above, there was no mention or need for a spring compressor in the rear.. there is no strut, of shock thru the center.. Its a completely different ballgame back there.
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Old 07-29-2006, 02:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2AUTOSPL
NIce write up. This needs to be stickied. BTW, i got your lower bar here, just need to get the right box for it.
Thanks Jay.. I look foward to getting it!!!
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Old 07-29-2006, 02:19 PM   #15
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Is everyone able to see all the pictures above in the How-To?? Just want to be sure knowone's getting an error mesasage of sorts.
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:27 PM   #16
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can see all pics fine, and nice job on the write up ;)

cant wait for my springs to come in :)

oh, and maybe you should update your siggy, with the new lower yaris? :)
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:27 PM   #17
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Great job chris, glad you did the how to instead of me. You didnt miss anything. Im also very happy with mine. Ride is just a tad stiffer but car corners a whole lot better. i didnt cut my bump stops and it hasnt bottomed out yet..knock on wood.
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamDaYarisMan
i didnt cut my bump stops and it hasnt bottomed out yet..knock on wood.
I only cut mine, just because over the years every car i've lowered, said to.
I called Tanbe USA just to ask and be sure, and they said to cut them as well.
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