HELP! ABS & BRAKE LIGHT ON SIMULTANEOUSLY!

[mizhgolightly]

I have a 2007 Yaris which I just bought less than two years ago and yesterday when I started the car the brake light & ABS brake light went on simultaneously. The speedometer is working fine. There was an incident 2 days ago when I was driving and an ambulance ran a red light but didn't turn its siren on so I had to brake very hard and abruptly which made the brakes screech a bit.....also, there is alot of snow here right now so I'm not sure if that affects anything? I have winter tires....but I was just wondering a couple of things:

-what could possibly be the problem?
-will it be expensive to fix? If so, approximately how much?
-I have the toyota extra care protection - will this cover it?
-is it still safe to drive around the city in it? I have an appointment at my Toyota dealer in three days but I need to run some errands with my car before then....

PS. I don't know ANYTHING about cars....

[voodoo22]

Check out this thread in the Canada forum

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11533

[PetersRedYaris]

Check the level of the fluid in the reservoir, if it's full and your brake pedal is firm (as in normal, it hasn't gone soft or squishy), I'd say your safe to drive it...

[tetzyamis]

ABS light of my 2003 Corolla went on when both of the tail lights were out.
Brake light of my 2001 Prius went on when the brake oil was low.
Yours probably is caused by something else if it happened after you braking hard, but just FYI.

[Jem_hadar]

Check out this thread in the Canada forum

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11533

!!!!

Check this thread.


Jem

[mleon4740]

Guys... here a new dissatisfied Toyota 2007 Yaris customer, had the ABS and Emergency Brake lights ON since yesterday, my warranty expired six months ago, has anyone heard of a change in Toyota's response to this type of problems?

[JBougie]

Why would you be a dissatisfied Toyota customer if you have a 2007 and the ABS and EBrake light just came on yesterday?

[41magmag41]

Had the same problem with my 2007 sedan at about 75000 miles. It was winter time and the brake and ABS lite came on, but went out a day or so later. About two weeks later the same thing happened and both lites stayed on. I took it to the dealer and was told the abs wiring harrness and sensors on the rear tires were corroaded and shorting out the system. It took the dealer 7 weeks to get the replacement parts to fix the car and the cost was about 700 PER tire on the rear, i.e. 1400.00 dollars, to replace the sensors and wiring harness. I was lucky enough that I had purchased the toyota 100,000 mile warranty on the car and got the work done for nothing.

Toyota is aware of the problem and has know about the problem since 2008 with the ABS on the yaris and has refused to issue a recall. There is a TSB on the issue but only if the customer calls attention to it within the warranty period. Do a quick search at this site and you can get the TSB number as well as a lenghthy thread on this very issue.

[lrondeau]

Happened once last winter and almost every day since the beginning of this winter.

Both break and ABS lights have been turning on when weather is -10C and off after driving a few kms and the car is warm. I sometimes hear weird noises like something is detached in the back wheels.

I thought my snow tires were lousy and was sometimes having a hard time engaging first gear and today, the lady in the car behind me notified me that my right wheel at the back was locked ! Driving on snow and ice, I didn't realize it. I turned around and went directly to the dealer. They didn't seem too concerned but I'm wondering what would have happened had I been on the highway, driving at 100kms instead of on a country road at 40km?

I'm a rental at 60,800 kms and 3years and 10 months so not on the warranty anymore. Dealer has offered to pay part of the bill but I still have to fork out 500$. I have to get the repairs done before I return the car next year.

But the parts are back ordered. They can't get them anywhere - Ontario or California (they say). They disconnected the ABS brakes and ordered the part. Now boht lights are on continuously. How do I know that everything is safe? I am loosing faith in Toyota!

I am definitely filing a complaint with Transport Canada.

[swidd]

Check the stop light switch on top of the brake pedal, you only have to remove the cover under the steering wheel. Place a piece of tape on top of the pin that gets pushed by the pedal, or wrap tape on top of the pedal thing. Problem solved. Its just a lose switch.

[brg88tx]

yet another reason i'm glad i got a bare bones yaris. less crap to break.

[bcolwill]

I have a 2007 Yaris which I purchased from my mother-in-law in December 2009 with only 3500 KM on it. Not long after I had the same problem as many here. Brake lights on and disabled ABS when driving in salt & slush. I was able to obtain the code pointing to a rear speed sensor. This past summer I purchased some dielectric grease at CDN Tire, removed the connectors at the rear wheels, filled the stationary end full of the grease and plugged them back in. Since I have done that I have yet to see the problem appear again.

[chr1s]

Hi all,

I've got the dreaded ABS light and Brake light illuminated together...
I've managed to remove the outer cover for the sensor plug but i can't get the actual plug off. Does anyone know how this connector comes off?

[CTScott]

Hi all,

I've got the dreaded ABS light and Brake light illuminated together...
I've managed to remove the outer cover for the sensor plug but i can't get the actual plug off. Does anyone know how this connector comes off?

With the outer cover off, just squeeze the back part of the flat side and pull.

[chr1s]

With the outer cover off, just squeeze the back part of the flat side and pull.

Got them both off, thank you.
The nearside is humped...the pin has broken off and is stuck in the connector so will need to replace both the male and female ends...wonder how much this wil cost :frown:

[mkegmn]

My wife came home last night and said that when she left work, her ABS and Brake light came on. She didn't notice a difference in the way the car was driving until she was almost home. She said that when she was just a few blocks from the house, when she tried to stop, the ABS instantly engauged which made it almost impossible to stop, also, the speedometer was stuck at 20. It only done it once, she had stopped at a gas station cause it scared her. She turned the car off and let it sit for a minute and then restarted it, which helped with the ABS engauging instantly. When she restarted it, the lights went out but as she was driving, they came back on but no issues with stopping. When she got home, I went to drive it to see if I could try figure it out. When I started it, the lights were on. I went and drove it around the block and I kinda crammed the breaks a couple times, not too hard and the lights went out and have been out ever since.

I used to work for one of the biggest dealerships here in Indianapolis and from working in the shop, I dealt with a lot of techs. One big thing they told me and I have seen for myself, is, gunk and buildup can coat one or more of the sensors and keep them from reading correctly, hense, the ABS and Brake light. We have been having alot of snow, ice, etc. We have lots of salt that has been thrown on our roads and alot of buildup. If this happens to you, it would be a good idea to take your car through a good carwash and a heavy pressurized underbody, I prefer Mike's Car Wash, to clean the undercarriage and get those sensors cleaned off. We are supposed to get rain within the next day or so, so I'm hoping with that, it will clean the buildup off. I hope this helps!

[vk2193]

Hey guys, i've got the same problem, ABS and Brake light came on on one snowy day... after reading ur comments i took my yaris sedan 2008 to the mechanic, he cleaned the connections and the light came off... i left my mechanic's parking lot and the the lights came on again! i came back he looked at it and said drive for one week look how it goes and if problem is still there come back. i came home and ht lights came off!!! not sure what the problem is, i will try to wash the underbody of the car, i never washed it there before...

[vk2193]

Hey guys, i've got the same problem, ABS and Brake light came on on one snowy day... after reading ur comments i took my yaris sedan 2008 to the mechanic, he cleaned the connections and the light came off... i left my mechanic's parking lot and the the lights came on again! i came back he looked at it and said drive for one week look how it goes and if problem is still there come back. i came home and ht lights came off!!! not sure what the problem is, i will try to wash the underbody of the car, i never washed it there before...

[chrisgblues]

I had the same problem last year (spring 2014) and after reading this forum I figured the ABS sensor must have had some moisture or corrosion in it. I decided to tackle the problem myself with good results. Be aware that I am NOT a mechanic and I can't even raise my vehicle off the ground, but I managed to get rid of the issue.

I laid down underneath the car with a can of WD-40 and sprayed a LOT of it in the area of the ABS sensors. I did this on all 4 wheels. It's not easy to get in there but I managed to soak all the sensors as much as possible hoping the WD-40 would soak in the small gaps where the contacts are.

It didn't work right away, but probably within a week the ABS light and the brake warning light went off. It came back on for a brief period then went off again. It's been about a year and the light hasn't come back on. I intend to spray it again with WD-40 later this spring for preventive maintenance. This may or may not work for you, but it worked for me. Good luck.

[IllusionX]

Wd-40 is not a lubricant.

[chrisgblues]

Wd-40 is not a lubricant.

You are 100% correct! WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's a "Water Displacement" product. Which is exactly why I used it on the ABS sensors, to displace the moisture that got in there and shorted the contacts which caused the error code. And it seems to have worked. I guess there's always a chance it was just a fluke, but it makes logical sense to me.

JMHO.

[Exiwolfman]

to resolve this problem that is common on Yaris and other Toyota's ...for Yaris u will need to scan the car find out if one or both abs harnesses need to be replaced this may solve the problem but for most part on the older cars u will need the wheel bearing hub replaced and harness .

[Maranda]

to resolve this problem that is common on Yaris and other Toyota's ...for Yaris u will need to scan the car find out if one or both abs harnesses need to be replaced this may solve the problem but for most part on the older cars u will need the wheel bearing hub replaced and harness .

Is there a way to know if only the harness are to be changed, or the hubs?
I want to take advantage of the nice weather to check it tomorrow.

I did a scan, and in my case, I have the error codes for the 2 abs in the rear.

[Exiwolfman]

If u have code for rear abs it should show side left or right or both ...could be harness but I find its the hub sensor in that case u need to and should always replace both

[CTScott]

Is there a way to know if only the harness are to be changed, or the hubs?
I want to take advantage of the nice weather to check it tomorrow.

I did a scan, and in my case, I have the error codes for the 2 abs in the rear.

You can easily tell which needs to be replaced by disconnecting the connector from the sensor in the hub. If the sensor's pins are intact you just have to replace the cable. If the sensor's pins are severely corroded, then the sensor will likely need to be replaced.

[Exiwolfman]

Very true Scott just find in areas with winter both are done . .but definitely worth the look and do harness first

[ntokozo]

Hi guys

I posted yesterday as well about the ABS light and handbrake light switching on after I changed the CV joing of the yaris 2007. in addition to that was the speedometer could not read. the safety belt alarm is not ringing when the belt is not fasten. today in the morning I realise there engine light is now on. the car is getting worse by day. and all I did was replacing the cv joints.

when I went to the mechanic about the faults, he indicated that the sold me non-abs cv joints. howeve I went back to the spares shop. they gave me my old cv to show that it did not have the wheel tone. to my wonder is but how was the speedometer reading before I changed the cv joints? a part of me was maybe the wheel tone is on the bearings. I checked where the abs sensor on the wheels is pointing. it seems to be pointing on the CV. I am now confused more. please help:
where is the wheel tone in 1.0 Toyota yaris 2007? bearing or cv joints?

[Edmontonian78]

I have a problem with my right rear speed sensor. I went and replaced the wiring harness which was visibly damage myself and I still have the error code 210(right rear speed sensor).

I have the bluedriver scan tool(highly recommended for the price!) which can read abs problems. When I try to clear the abs fault with it says it can't clear permanent codes. I have also tried to clear it using this youtube method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD1V6pv2ej0 which also doesn't work. I'd like to be able to clear it initially at the least.

I'm thinking I may have to replace the hub assembly as well which would be a pain since I went and gobbed a bunch of silicone around the connector area so no water gets in.

[Edmontonian78]

You can easily tell which needs to be replaced by disconnecting the connector from the sensor in the hub. If the sensor's pins are intact you just have to replace the cable. If the sensor's pins are severely corroded, then the sensor will likely need to be replaced.

You can take some sewing needles and use them to check for continuity on the wiring harness with a multi meter. On the 2007 sedan model if you push down the back seat so you can see the inside of your trunk; the connector for the speed sensor wire is right inside the plastic trim and you just need to remove a plastic pin that holds it in place.

[MUSKOKA800]

Hey guys, i've got the same problem, ABS and Brake light came on on one snowy day... after reading ur comments i took my yaris sedan 2008 to the mechanic, he cleaned the connections and the light came off... i left my mechanic's parking lot and the the lights came on again! i came back he looked at it and said drive for one week look how it goes and if problem is still there come back. i came home and ht lights came off!!! not sure what the problem is, i will try to wash the underbody of the car, i never washed it there before...


Mine also cycled on and off for a long period until I attempted to pull the plug off for inspection and likely doing permanent damage as the light stay on constantly now. Solution = install new rear wheel bearing (with ABS) and possibly also the wiring harness. OR drive with the warning lights on and no ABS.

[killacam64]

I have a 2009 yaris sedan. when I pull the codes im getting a C0210, C0215, and C0278. My question is are both my rear speed sensors bad, or am I getting that code because of the ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit problem. Im going to test the voltage on the sensor this weekend and try troubleshooting the relay circuit. Thanks

[crpt2008]

Hi all
Another Toyota Yaris 2007 D4D with ABS and Traction control lights on.
Damn awful situation since EU control (MOT) failed and if road authorities catch it pull the license plates so can't be driven.
Repair is stupidly expensive here in Norway.
But other than the lights on and inoperative ABS + TCS the car behaves normally and brake well as usual.
Very sad client...:mad::mad::confused::confused:

PS: Worth mention the brakes act better in snow and ice without the ABS ON.
In those conditions the ABS is a bit "hysterical" and mess in way too much. :o)

[400 dollar yaris]

happened to me today :thumbdown:. of course it is 8 degrees out. There was a lot of snow and ice build up around my wheels this morning, but thought nothing of it as I have never had a problem before, but as I am pulling out of the driveway of course both lights appear. so after reading multiple threads and watching youtube videos, I will begin my troubleshooting with the rear skid sensors. The plan is to disconnect them and use electrical contact spray on them to hopefully get rid of dirt and corrosion. will need to do both sides since autozone and O'reilly cant pull the codes to tell me which one and the dealer will charge $100. next the plan is to remove front speed sensors and clean them with a rag. Ill let you know the results. If anyone has any tips it would be greatly appreciated. I will take pictures of all four sensors as well to try to help others on here experiencing the same issues. not really wanting to spend the money as nothing was wrong yesterday and after reading about how the dealerships are screwing people that will be my last resort. wish me luck.

[400 dollar yaris]

well the lights are gone. no pictures really as it was a very straight forward fix for me. so being 10 degrees outside I decided to run up to harbor freight and get a few things before I freeze to death trying to do all four wheels. got a code reader and some electrical contact cleaner. after returning home, I hooked up the reader to see what I was dealing with. basically it was throwing codes for both rear sensors as well as one for debris on the right rear sensor and high or low voltage reading. so I just disconnected both sensors coated them in a good amount of contact cleaner and let it dry. next I carefully reconnected the sensors and cleared the old codes using the diagnostic reader. after turning on the car and taking it for a spin lights were off and no more codes so we will see if this did the trick. good luck to anyone experiencing this problem and I hope this post will help. from now on I will be checking wheel wells for excessive snow and ice in the mornings before leaving the house to help keep these areas clean. I suspect that there was dirt and snow/ice in the sensors causing them to fail. when it is warmer out, I may use some spray insulation on these sensors to hopefully avoid this issue for winters to come. as of now no lights on and I'm calling it a win. now if I can just find time to get these recalls done.....

[dogsridewith]

well the lights are gone. no pictures really as it was a very straight forward fix for me. so being 10 degrees outside I decided to run up to harbor freight and get a few things before I freeze to death trying to do all four wheels. got a code reader and some electrical contact cleaner. after returning home, I hooked up the reader to see what I was dealing with. basically it was throwing codes for both rear sensors as well as one for debris on the right rear sensor and high or low voltage reading. so I just disconnected both sensors coated them in a good amount of contact cleaner and let it dry. next I carefully reconnected the sensors and cleared the old codes using the diagnostic reader. after turning on the car and taking it for a spin lights were off and no more codes so we will see if this did the trick. good luck to anyone experiencing this problem and I hope this post will help. from now on I will be checking wheel wells for excessive snow and ice in the mornings before leaving the house to help keep these areas clean. I suspect that there was dirt and snow/ice in the sensors causing them to fail. when it is warmer out, I may use some spray insulation on these sensors to hopefully avoid this issue for winters to come. as of now no lights on and I'm calling it a win. now if I can just find time to get these recalls done.....
Happy for your fix and thanks for the great write-up. (Good use of an older thread.) I'd be interested in a part number or any description of that particular reader.
Did an earlier post in the thread mention reassembly w/ dielectric grease to protect connector contacts?

[zoidberg444]

Weird. Never saw this old thread. I actually have a history code in the brake control module for a rear wheel speed sensor (although it never turned the light on). I drove it in the summer with the live data graphing on my scanner for all 4 wheel speed sensors and I didn't detect any problems. So I thought i'd monitor it. Then a few weeks ago we had really bad snow in the UK which was pretty unusual. I drove to work as usual during that week and one morning my ABS and (!) light came on while I was driving and then went off after about 10 minutes. I have wondered if some salt or moisture got in the connector for one of the wheel speed sensors or some snow/ice/grit got up in the gap between the sensor and the ring and caused an issue.

When i get it up on the jack stands for its service in April i might do some further investigations and clean out some of the plugs with contact cleaner and make sure there are no crusties in them.

[tmontague]

well the lights are gone. no pictures really as it was a very straight forward fix for me. so being 10 degrees outside I decided to run up to harbor freight and get a few things before I freeze to death trying to do all four wheels. got a code reader and some electrical contact cleaner. after returning home, I hooked up the reader to see what I was dealing with. basically it was throwing codes for both rear sensors as well as one for debris on the right rear sensor and high or low voltage reading. so I just disconnected both sensors coated them in a good amount of contact cleaner and let it dry. next I carefully reconnected the sensors and cleared the old codes using the diagnostic reader. after turning on the car and taking it for a spin lights were off and no more codes so we will see if this did the trick. good luck to anyone experiencing this problem and I hope this post will help. from now on I will be checking wheel wells for excessive snow and ice in the mornings before leaving the house to help keep these areas clean. I suspect that there was dirt and snow/ice in the sensors causing them to fail. when it is warmer out, I may use some spray insulation on these sensors to hopefully avoid this issue for winters to come. as of now no lights on and I'm calling it a win. now if I can just find time to get these recalls done.....

Throwing in some dielectric grease in between both connectors would be a good idea next time you have the wheels off. Keeps the moisture out and will help avoid this issue again. Glad you were able to fix it

[400 dollar yaris]

Happy for your fix and thanks for the great write-up. (Good use of an older thread.) I'd be interested in a part number or any description of that particular reader.
Did an earlier post in the thread mention reassembly w/ dielectric grease to protect connector contacts?

Yes it did which I will do as soon as its a little warmer and I don't have to lay in the snow as I am without a garage at my current apartment, but I believe the grease would definitely help to keep these exposed contacts safer. Also, the reader I got was from harbor freight, Zurich OBD2 ZR11 63807 it was a little expensive for me at 140 dollars but it seems like a very nice piece of equipment that will last me a long time. They had another one there for 190, but I chose to get the cheaper one. I highly recommend if you need one right away. Good luck to everyone with their cars and I'm glad to have found this thread. :drinking:

[clintblackx]

I just happened to come across this site when I was searching for a solution to my ABS and Brake lights coming up. It is a very slushy and cold day up here in Michigan. I guess I need to take my car in to a car wash!

[seatech30]

I had new tires installed yesterday. Today, did the alignment at Meineki, they took 4 hours "because they had to wait for some shims to come in". I drove off and did some laundry then drove to McDs for food. When i got out of McDs and turned my car on and was driving, I noticed the brake light was on and quickly checked to make sure I hadnt left the E brake on, but it was off then I noticed the ABS light was also on. I pulled over and played with the e brake, but nothing. I scanned the error codes with my generic bluetooth odbii and nothing is reported. Did a error code wipe and nothing. Then I found this thread. I had to have bigger tires installed because costco didnt have my size, however, i get the feeling that meineki did something wrong when installing the shims in the rear. Any thoughts?

[zoidberg444]

I wonder if they damaged one of your ABS sensors or the harness when they did the alignment? I don't know HOW exactly they managed it (talented i guess?) but i doubt its serious. My brake and ABS light were on for a while in the winter (and then went out) and it never caused me any bother.

My Autel MD802 scanner reads my brake module (codes and live data), i think there is a slightly cheaper one that only works on Asian vehicles.

Probably the cheapest way is if you have an old laptop (windows XP or Windows 7 32 bit) you can get a knock off Toyota Mini VCJ J2534 cable which may just by coincidence happen to have a virus containing copy of Toyota Techstream with it from China... *cough cough* The factory software will read all codes and modules and display live data. I think i got mine for $13.

[seatech30]

I wonder if they damaged one of your ABS sensors or the harness when they did the alignment? I don't know HOW exactly they managed it (talented i guess?) but i doubt its serious. My brake and ABS light were on for a while in the winter (and then went out) and it never caused me any bother.

My Autel MD802 scanner reads my brake module (codes and live data), i think there is a slightly cheaper one that only works on Asian vehicles.

Probably the cheapest way is if you have an old laptop (windows XP or Windows 7 32 bit) you can get a knock off Toyota Mini VCJ J2534 cable which may just by coincidence happen to have a virus containing copy of Toyota Techstream with it from China... *cough cough* The factory software will read all codes and modules and display live data. I think i got mine for $13.

It doesn't seem that the brakes are dragging, and they feel the same as before the lights, so I think it will be alright to keep going as is. It just psyches me out every time I look over while driving.

Unfortunately the laptop I have with me is ubuntu and windows 10. Ill do some digging on that though, thanks for the advice. I do have the torque app paid version, not sure if that makes any difference. Thanks for chiming in!

[zoidberg444]

It doesn't seem that the brakes are dragging, and they feel the same as before the lights, so I think it will be alright to keep going as is. It just psyches me out every time I look over while driving.

Unfortunately the laptop I have with me is ubuntu and windows 10. Ill do some digging on that though, thanks for the advice. I do have the torque app paid version, not sure if that makes any difference. Thanks for chiming in!It will probably be ok till you get home. Worst case it might just prevent your ABS from working. I don't know if any of the autoparts stores that do free code reading have scanners which read brake codes. Might be an idea.

I'll probably get in trouble for talking about it on here. But i got my cable and software from ali express. You see them on ebay as well. I installed it on a shitty old Samsung NC110 netbook. The software probably has viruses and malware embedded in it but all i use that laptop for is techstream and my hantek scope software. I'd never put it on any of my main machines. The software seems to work well enough and could access all the modules on the CAN.

Safe travels mate. Keep us updated.

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

[dogsridewith]

I had new tires installed yesterday. Today, did the alignment at Meineki, they took 4 hours "because they had to wait for some shims to come in". I drove off and did some laundry then drove to McDs for food. When i got out of McDs and turned my car on and was driving, I noticed the brake light was on and quickly checked to make sure I hadnt left the E brake on, but it was off then I noticed the ABS light was also on. I pulled over and played with the e brake, but nothing. I scanned the error codes with my generic bluetooth odbii and nothing is reported. Did a error code wipe and nothing. Then I found this thread. I had to have bigger tires installed because costco didnt have my size, however, i get the feeling that meineki did something wrong when installing the shims in the rear. Any thoughts?
Where on the car structure are shims used for this alignment?
(Gen 2 Yaris wheel alignment rear shims torsion beam axle)

[seatech30]

zoidberg444, I did ask an Autozone if they could check with theirs when I dropped off my oil, it didnt read anything. Thanks for the info, ill have to get a set. So far the car has behaved the same in all regards. Fingers crossed.

dogsridewith, I have no clue. The tech seemed confused that the shims didn't go on the way they should he said something about the numbers going on the outside which isn't what he was used to seeing. Apparently they'd been putting shims on and it would fail alignment or something. They didn't really give me details. I'll take a wheel off when I get a chance and take a look.

[scgoodie]

Thank you all for your input! My 2012 Yaris 5 door (base model W/AT)had the brake light, ABS light and Traction Control icon stay on at startup. Everything seemed to work ok so I stopped after driving 5 miles, shut car off and restarted. Lights went out. Has happened a couple of times since (within 2 weeks) but once had actually gone out on its own. I put an OBD reader on the car and came up with no codes (lights were off), but will try if lights come back on. I will check the connections for my ABS sensors. Car has only 190,300 miles on it and I drive it one week then my 2018 Tacoma the next week. Great car, a pleasure to drive.