"Parmas" Motor [Archive] - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

rob323

03-03-2010, 06:10 PM

If you have a compression tester, you can easily tell if it's the rings or the valves which are causing the problem. Run the compression test as you would normally and take note of the reading.
Then remove the compression tester fitting and drop a teaspoon of oil (any normal mineral oil will do, castor oil, motor oil, doesn't really matter as long as it is thin (ie. not gearbox oil)) down the spark plug hole and then repeat the compression test. The oil you put down the combustion chamber helps the rings to seal better. If the reading is the same as before the oil was added, then the problem is in the head (valves, valve guides etc). If the reading is dramatically better than without the oil, then you look towards your pistons and rings for the problem.
If the reading is only slightly better than before you added the oil, but still low compared to the other pistons, then you possibly have a bent rod.

cali yaris

03-03-2010, 06:41 PM

A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test.

Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.

cali yaris

03-03-2010, 06:42 PM

Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.

What was the compression in each cylinder, and was this information given to Parmas? (in which case, Parmas you can post the information).

cdydjded

03-03-2010, 07:05 PM

Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.

Yes they are both proper test & the compression test is done before the leak down. But the compression test cannot pinpoint the problem like the leakdown can. A compression test tells you about your engine's ability to generate cylinder pressure, and a leak down test tells you about it's ability to hold pressure. Another way to think of it is that with a compression test you are seeing how much pressure the engine creates, and with a leak-down test you are seeing how much pressure it loses. So if while doing the leak down you have air blowing out the exhaust you have an exhaust valve issue, out the intake you have intake valve issue & out the pan is a ring problem.

Parmas

03-04-2010, 03:46 PM

The problem is probably a valve because if it was a piston ring the breather will show a considerable amount of oil coming out.

Finally the good news is that the authorities confirmed that there is no expense to change the engine (an amount that was thought to be near $2000). So now with these money I am going to fix the compression problem, port & polish head, lighten flywheel?, new seals and maybe a block guard.

Is there a brand that makes sales of a block guard for our 1NZ? Do you have for sale garm?

cali yaris

03-05-2010, 02:15 AM

If the motor is sleeved properly there is absolutely no need for a block guard on our motor.

If you are going to drag race, don't get a light flywheel. For other types of driving or racing it's a good modification.

Parmas

03-29-2010, 10:29 AM

I am making an estimate of all things I need...... I wish anyone who can help to post some useful info.

The tuner gave me this estimate of parts to replace\upgrade:
Parts marked are thought to be left out

- Toyota OE Overall Gasket Set
- Toyota OE Crank shaft Bearings Kit
- Toyota OE Trust Bearings
- Toyota OE Timing chain kit ?

- Arias Rings Set - Where to buy? Prices ?
- Block Guard Custom made ? What about sleeves? Cost? Need new pistons?
- Steel Head Studs - Thinking of AJUSA or ARP. Where To buy?
- Knife edge crankshaft ?
- Full bottom end Balancing
- Flywheel Lightening + faces ?
- Head Porting - There are different stages, can anyone explain in detail?
- Cometic MLS Head Gasket - Does AJUSA have better head gaskets?

If I am missing something please post reply...

cali yaris

03-29-2010, 02:31 PM

I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.

Parmas

03-29-2010, 04:26 PM

I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.

Head studs are the same it came with the engine which are probably stock ones.

I read the post 257 but I don't know where I can find for our 1NZ. Also what kind of issues I might get into if using the same pistons?

Garm I would appreciate any comments on the other parts mentioned aswell. Which in your opinion I might need or not...

cali yaris

03-29-2010, 06:06 PM

stock head studs are not a good idea. We had to custom make a set, but there is a company overseas making them. Can't vouch for the quality though.

Parmas

03-30-2010, 08:02 AM

there is a company overseas making them. Can't vouch for the quality though.

What company are you referring to?

cali yaris

03-30-2010, 12:56 PM

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/yaris-performance-mods/412-head-bolts-yaris.html

You posted that the link doesn't work for you, but I just tried it and it came up ok.

yaris-me

03-30-2010, 01:33 PM

Parmas

03-30-2010, 03:58 PM

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/yaris-performance-mods/412-head-bolts-yaris.html

You posted that the link doesn't work for you, but I just tried it and it came up ok.

Still getting broken link ...

Although I got some news that AJUSA head bolts are similar to standard Bolts or else equal. I will be probably getting them custom made from DP.

What can you tell about porting? Is it worth doing it from experience? What is the average increased hp?

What about Knife edging crankshaft? What are the pros and cons of it?

What about doing upgraded sleeves? At what power they are really needed?

Come on is only Garm helping here... where are the experts :help:

CtrlAltDefeat

03-30-2010, 04:02 PM

http://downforeveryoneorjustme.com/importperformanceparts.net works for me and downforeveryoneorjustme.com says its up

cali yaris

03-30-2010, 07:42 PM

I sleeved my Yaris block because we knew we were going for 20+ pounds of boost.
I would sleeve it if you intend to throw 15+ at yours.

Porting/polishing increases airflow. The effect and increased hp is amplified when you throw boost at it (more air trying to pass through, obviously). I would do it.

I am using stock crankshaft, and I like the results I'm getting so far.

rob323

03-30-2010, 10:11 PM

What can you tell about porting? Is it worth doing it from experience?
If you have the head apart, then you may as well do it. NA motors benefit from it more so than forced induction motors (the pressure from the turbo helps negate some of the inefficiencies in the intake).

What is the average increased hp?
Impossible to say, it varies with each and every car and how the porting is done.

What about Knife edging crankshaft? What are the pros and cons of it?
It reduces the reciprocal weight of the crank shaft, good for high revving motors (8000 rpm upwards). I wouldn't worry about it on your motor as you will have to fully rebalance the motor once you have done it. (Then again, if you are replacing the pistons, then you should fully rebalance the motor anyway).

What about doing upgraded sleeves? At what power they are really needed?
I haven't heard of anyone cracking a sleeve yet? Maybe some of the Scion boys have though as they have been putting boost through these motors longer than most?

Parmas

03-31-2010, 05:38 AM

Ok so porting will be one on my list.... Then what about stock valves and springs? Are they capable of 20+ boost?

I made some more research on knife edging the crankshaft. They usually make it on Honda engines but since it doesn't cost that much I would probably do it.

RE: Sleeves... My Power intensions are somewhere near 300Hp. Considering that I am using a turbo GT28 and using street pump low grade octane fuel (Below 90) the engine would need about 25psi of boost to get into that range. The tuner said, if going to do sleeves, the pistons could need to be replaced to match new sleeves... so it would cost me a fortune to make this happen!

changchewsoon

03-31-2010, 06:07 AM

hi parmas,

im too getting my head ported as well. at the same time, i fully agree with what garm said. the more air you could flow, the better. and results will be amplified when you boost it. you should go ahead and get a "head job" :)

im also having my cams welded and grinded too, and the valve springs will be changed as well.

as for the AJUSA bolts, i could only comment that the bolts are much more heavier than the stock ones. however, heavier does not mean they are better. i can only tell you this much, and until my cylinder head is back i don't have further inputs on that.

im currently keeping my crankshaft stock though, tuner did not recommend me to have them knife edged so i did not pursue that.

Parmas

03-31-2010, 06:46 AM

cali yaris

03-31-2010, 11:57 AM

RE Knife edging crank, Did you asked your tuner the reason not doing it?

rob explained this point quite well.

I'm about to tune upwards of 25 psi, on stock crank and stock valve springs. I just don't see the need to spend money there when it's not necessary.

Parmas

03-31-2010, 01:37 PM

What fuel octane are you using Garm?

cali yaris

03-31-2010, 01:59 PM

91 with water/meth injection. Should be able to run 25 psi on pump gas. :biggrin:

Parmas

03-31-2010, 02:23 PM

91 with water/meth injection. Should be able to run 25 psi on pump gas. :biggrin:

I thought you have a better (directly from pump) octane than 91 there!

rob323

03-31-2010, 05:28 PM

Stock valve springs are designed to work with the stock rev limit and the stock lift and ramp angles on the cams. If you change any of those, only then do you need to look at a heavier valve spring.

cali yaris

03-31-2010, 05:53 PM

I thought you have a better (directly from pump) octane than 91 there!

I can get 100 down the street, and I can buy buckets of any race gas I want, but I don't need it with the meth injection.

cali yaris

03-31-2010, 05:54 PM

Stock valve springs are designed to work with the stock rev limit and the stock lift and ramp angles on the cams.

Correct. Although I will say we are doing fine up to 7200 so far, all valve parts are stock.

rob323

03-31-2010, 06:23 PM

That's good to know there's some head room left in the valve train, thanks Garm.

cali yaris

03-31-2010, 06:52 PM

don't worry if they float, I'll post it! :eek:

rob323

03-31-2010, 06:56 PM

Do they float/ bounce?

Parmas

03-31-2010, 07:10 PM

Correct. Although I will say we are doing fine up to 7200 so far, all valve parts are stock.

I thought you rev limit to 6500? Can you give more info on the 7200?

Does it increase power or remain constant between 6.5-7.2?

changchewsoon

04-01-2010, 08:14 AM

Thanks for the info changchewsoon

What valve springs are you intending to use? Regarding cams I think I leave them stock don't want to mess everthing at once

RE AJUSA bolts, heavier doesn't meen better but the quality of metal used. Do you know if they match exactly the stock bolts? I mean no rethreading etc..

RE Knife edging crank, Did you asked your tuner the reason not doing it?

i just got a call from my tuner that my cylinder head just came back, im gonna go snap pictures tomorrow and i'll ask him about the valve springs.

reason why the shop that was working on my head changed the valve springs is because we told him that we wanted to increase the rev limit to at least 8,000 rpm or above.

the AJUSA bolts does match the stock bolts, the only think im not able to comment is the quality until we use it.

as for the knife edging crank, i did not asked him why we do not need to do it.

Parmas

04-01-2010, 11:31 AM

i just got a call from my tuner that my cylinder head just came back, im gonna go snap pictures tomorrow and i'll ask him about the valve springs.

reason why the shop that was working on my head changed the valve springs is because we told him that we wanted to increase the rev limit to at least 8,000 rpm or above.

the AJUSA bolts does match the stock bolts, the only think im not able to comment is the quality until we use it.

as for the knife edging crank, i did not asked him why we do not need to do it.

Wow man 8000rpm seems too much for a 1NZFE although I wish you all success in your project. I think in your case, knife edging the crank will help you more reach that goal.

Keep us updated :thumbsup:

cali yaris

04-01-2010, 12:10 PM

we wanted to increase the rev limit to at least 8,000 rpm or above.

Looking forward to your dynos, that will be really cool!

@ Parmas: we have the limiter at 7200 but if you've looked at my dynos, it quits making power about 6500.

It MIGHT make power up higher with the new custom intake manifold. Next tuning session will tell us a lot more.

Parmas

04-01-2010, 01:27 PM

@ Parmas: we have the limiter at 7200 but if you've looked at my dynos, it quits making power about 6500.

Yes I saw that before but I thought you got it making power till 7200 after that.

BTW I heard some ppl saying that water injection reduces power output when used. I mean if you run the same setup with for example 16psi with water injection and dyno compare it without, it will result to a slight power decrease. Is this true?

eTiMaGo

04-01-2010, 01:30 PM

possibly, any volume taken up by water vapor is not filled with air/fuel mixture... Not sure how big of a difference it would make, but it's a small compromise to be able to run on pump gas!

cali yaris

04-01-2010, 01:52 PM

BTW I heard some ppl saying that water injection reduces power output when used.

"some people saying" means nothing to me. Show me some results and I will be very interested, although I'm not trading away the ability to run high boost on pump gas - that is way too much fun to give up!

Parmas

04-01-2010, 02:39 PM

"some people saying" means nothing to me. Show me some results and I will be very interested, although I'm not trading away the ability to run high boost on pump gas - that is way too much fun to give up!

In my opinion Water Injection is used to cool mixture and to be able to run higher boost values but with that said, doesn't mean it gives you power by itself. Is that right?

I happen to be in a forum to discuss these things before commiting myself into it. I am not saying they are right or wrong, I just want your opinions like Etimago commented and I am sure all good things have their bad things.
I don't carry lots of cash to try these things, I am here to knowledge myself more and prevent disappointment for future upgrades..

cali yaris

04-01-2010, 03:11 PM

^ I'm here for that too, have learned a lot. Yes, I would agree that water doesn't add power by itself. But at cooler intake/cylinder temperatures (which is what the water does), more fuel is in the available air, and that makes more power. This would be true whether or not there is boost.

A good example of this is that a Cold Air Intake adds power to a stock car (n/a), simply by cooling down the incoming air. Water injection does the same thing, to my understanding.

What I meant was "some people saying" doesn't help any of us. Doesn't it depend on who said it, when they said it, and what they were talking about? So my request, respectfully is to be more specific in that regard.

Parmas

04-01-2010, 04:41 PM

A good example of this is that a Cold Air Intake adds power to a stock car (n/a), simply by cooling down the incoming air. Water injection does the same thing, to my understanding.

I understand your thought so I ask what is the better?

- Having a very good intercooler that keeps the air as cold as possible

OR

- Cooling Mixture with water injection

In my opinion cooling the air without water injection by having a better intercooler is the point were you will see power gains without compensating with extra boost (less wear and tear). What are your opinions on this guys?

cali yaris

04-01-2010, 05:06 PM

It's just as easy to do water/meth injection and get the octane boost from the alcohol. I wouldn't bother with all the effort for just water.

Parmas

04-02-2010, 09:17 AM

It's just as easy to do water/meth injection and get the octane boost from the alcohol. I wouldn't bother with all the effort for just water.

Can you tell us by how much the water injection on your setup lowered the intake temps ?

cali yaris

04-02-2010, 11:50 AM

No, (1) because we changed the manifold too and (2) we haven't tuned on the dyno yet (wastegate failed last time).

Hoping for a new appointment next week!

changchewsoon

04-04-2010, 05:50 AM

Parmas

04-04-2010, 11:49 AM

thanks a lot garm and parmas, it is because of people like you guys all over the world inspires people like to me to want to push the 1nz-fe further! :)

i too can't wait to see garm's latest update and also parmas's build....man just thinking about them gives me goosebumps!

i've learnt a lot just by reading both your threads.

That is why we post here my friend !

Of course we are many here and I think there are more than just us building the ultimate 1NZ so please contribute your info :thumbsup:

Parmas

06-10-2010, 05:04 AM

Update:

Let me revise the situation.... During the last months I had my tuner claiming that the problem of the tune up was coming from a loss of compression. Since there were too much money to repair and buy the extra parts I decided to hold the project until I had further cash in my hands.

During the time, I came accross one of my friends who is an expert on this and decided to help me out on this. Of course we began by checking the compression again and duhhh it came out that it is good on all 4 cyclinders. We retried again the test and still no problems.

Seeing this out he told me to change the tuner and retry the tune again. I went to talk with the new tuner and he told me that we need to check all the necessary wiring in case the previous tuner messed up something. We indeed found some wiring not matching with the ecu instruction manual regarding VVT connection so this might be the problem.

The other thing that might mess up with the tune is that the ECU supports VVT but not VVTi. There is an option to activate the VVT at a certain rpm and switch it off at another rpm. I contacted the ecu company for more info on this and he said that the ecu was tested and tuned succesfully on a 1ZZFE VVTi engine.

I booked a tuning session for next week so until then crossed fingers

cali yaris

06-10-2010, 12:40 PM

ooh, exciting! I'm very glad you checked the compression yourself, proving the first tuner to be wrong, making excuses like that for his lack of skill.

Good luck and we're all waiting to see how she does!

Parmas

06-17-2010, 12:00 PM

Today I went to my tuner to discuss how we can get this right....

Well there is some issues we need to face and we are unsure whether the management used is capable to tune VVTi correctly.

1st problem: Mode selection

- On the ecu there are 8 Modes one can select, from batch fire with single coil mode to Full Sequential mode. The only problem I am seeing is the Crank Trigger. If you refer to the attachment you can notice Mode 6 - Phased Sequential with multicoils, Crank Trigger 36 -1 input, no TDC (which is my current setup). According to H3ilton, our engine crank trigger is 34. If he is right, (and we will check about this to confirm) the ecu will not support this crank trigger and so tuning cannot be done efficiently.

- 2nd Problem: VVTi control

The ecu surely support VVT with an on and off rpm setting but since now we cannot find a way in the ecu's software that can tune on a range of degree angles. We only can signal the camshaft timing plunger at a certain (still unknown) pulse modulation frequency at a set RPM number. Still, when signaling the plunger we don't know for sure how the cam will react in terms of degrees but we are assuming that when not signaling the plunger the engine is fully retarded and when singaling the engine is fully advanced. At this point, if we are assuming right, the midrange power will be affected drastically. If I am right our engine varies timing within a range of 40Degrees.

In order to solve this problem, my tuner recommended of eliminating the VVTi by making the stock camshaft fixed (if it can be done) or else upgrading the cams.

- 3rd Problem: Ignition Coils

I was thinking of putting the stock ignition coils as members of this forum suggested but when talking with my tuner he said that the ecu do not support the stock 4wire coil with igniters. In order to work we need 2wire coils that are capable to work with the ecu. (Refer to attachment) First wiring diagram shows my current setup while the other shows the wiring diagram for full sequential

- 4th Problem: Installing TDC - Currently not used

According the Toyota Engine manual page 40, the stock ecu use the camshaft position sensor (TDC) to make the VVTi work efficient. Our ecu supports this feature and it could be installed without problems. So I ask, is the TDC a must to have it installed to make the VVTi work properly on a standalone management?

Any suggestions are apprectiated

cali yaris

06-17-2010, 12:19 PM

I've asked my tuner your question, Parmas.

But what did GoTech say? Since it's their tuning computer, they should be able to answer most of your questions.

Parmas

06-17-2010, 12:27 PM

I've asked my tuner your question, Parmas.

But what did GoTech say? Since it's their tuning computer, they should be able to answer most of your questions.

I am awaiting response from them but certainly many engines that work with pulse modulation frequencies vary from engine to engine model. I think at this point it is more a Toyota thing than Gotech but thats just me.

What does the tuner told you about this Garm?

Parmas

06-17-2010, 12:46 PM

Here is a link for the sake of the people who don't know what we are discussing about: Pulse width modulation frequency

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Performance-Electronics-Part-2/A_2574/article.html

cali yaris

06-17-2010, 01:18 PM

The AEM EMS has a wizard for Toyota motors, I believe it automatically sets parameters for VVTI. So I'm not sure I'll be able to answer your question, but Art is going to look into it further.

Parmas

06-17-2010, 01:28 PM

The AEM EMS has a wizard for Toyota motors, I believe it automatically sets parameters for VVTI. So I'm not sure I'll be able to answer your question, but Art is going to look into it further.

You are a life saver thank for your support and God Bless your management:thumbsup:

Current Setting are :

- Frequency @ 60Hz = 3600rpm / minute

- DutyCycle @ 7.1% = 4.25s / minute

What do you think about the other issues I mentioned apart PWM?

rob323

06-17-2010, 05:02 PM

Parmas

06-17-2010, 05:49 PM

To me, it sounds more likely that the problem is the engine management, than the engine. Might be cheaper to use something like Adaptronic which utilises all the factory sensor & igniters and has continuously variable control over the vvti.

I'll pm you an email conversation I had with Adaptronic recently.

I checked the specs of the e420c and seem that VVTi isn't mentioned but as you sent me the pm it seems it can eventually.

I am going to give the last try to the present management if tuning fails again then I have to change it to another that accepts VVTi or I have to consider removing VVTi completely like many honda removing Vtec.... will see what comes up next

rob323

06-17-2010, 06:23 PM

Yes, that was why I emailed them. To make sure.
I haven't played enough with these motors to find out just where the cam sits when the vvti solenoid is unplugged but maybe that is the best way for you to do it now unless you can get the continuously variable control working.

cali yaris

06-17-2010, 06:57 PM

^ we know that works too. Just not as much control in tuning.

Bluevitz-rs

06-18-2010, 12:24 AM

rob323

06-18-2010, 12:28 AM

So does the vvti just retard the cam, or advance it?

Parmas

06-18-2010, 05:48 AM

So does the vvti just retard the cam, or advance it?

The VVTi retard and advance the camshaft angle based on the engine:

- RPM
- Temperature
- Load

If you see the image below you can notice that the camshaft is being advanced or retarding according these factors. Although there are six diagrams of camshaft angles, three of them are matched with others. I marked them for you to understand with ease.

It is hard to notice correctly if the overlaps are the same but if you see accurately, the camshaft angle figures are labeled with a 7-digit number. Some of them are actually the same label so it makes me think that infact they are at the same position.

So lets make a summary of this:

Camshaft Angle 1 - Fully Retarded

During idling \ Light Load (1a) = At Low Temperature (1b) = Upon Starting \ Stopping Engine (1c)

Camshaft Angle 2 - Fully Advanced

At medium Load (2a) = In low to Medium Speed Range with Heavy Load (2b)

Camshaft Angle 3 - Retarded but more advanced than Angle 1

In High Speed Range with Heavy Load

Still.... if you notice the 2nd and 3rd diagrams you will notice that the valve has only two ports and not three, which I am thinking are Angles 1 and 2. So that makes me think, where would the valve be at Angle 3?

Yaris Hilton

06-18-2010, 08:10 AM

Got a link to that 1NZFE Spec Details.pdf document?

Parmas

06-18-2010, 08:18 AM

Got a link to that 1NZFE Spec Details.pdf document?

http://www.autoclub72.ru/forum/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=1552

Parmas

06-18-2010, 08:24 AM

The AEM EMS has a wizard for Toyota motors, I believe it automatically sets parameters for VVTI. So I'm not sure I'll be able to answer your question, but Art is going to look into it further.

Garm I have an idea..... if we connect an oscilloscope on the signal wire of the valve timing control on a stock 1NZFE with a stock ecu, we could know eventually the frequency and duty cycle at all rpm ranges.

The problem is I don't own one damn... or else someone could check with a toyota expert on this .... maybe H3ilton :rolleyes:

Edit: I found a waveform of the camshaft timing valve here on page 33 http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/Engine%20Control.pdf

Can anyone translate it in terms of frequency or duty cycle?

I uploaded some pages of the manual that relates to VVT information

cali yaris

06-18-2010, 11:05 PM

wow, now that is over my head, sorry!

Parmas

06-19-2010, 12:21 PM

I told this to a friend and he said that from the look of the waveform he concludes that it is at:

Frequency 1000Hz because frequency = 1 \ t and since the waveform shows 1ms\div so = 1 \ 0.001s = 1000Hz

Duty 33% because the waveform shows 3 pulses each about a bit longer than each division. Since there are 10divisions and 3 pulses (each a bit longer) ......... so 1pulse = 1.1 x 3 = 3.3.... 3.3div out of 10div = 33%

Garm can your tuner confirm this?

cali yaris

06-19-2010, 01:13 PM

I haven't heard back yet :frown:

Parmas

06-19-2010, 01:24 PM

Explained more in detail from where these values came.... if there is a mistake don't hesitate to post why and of course the right answer :)

By the way previous tuner set these values to 60Hz and 7.1% in which if the "new" values are correct, with the present values I have on my ecu there is a high possibility that the valve is never being activated and it is always on the most retard state at all loads and rpm!!! that explains roughy state etc...

rob323

06-20-2010, 05:58 PM

I don't think your frequency value is correct. If each division is one millisecond (which isn't entirely clear), then each pulse appears to be about 3.5 milliseconds apart, which correlates to approx. 285Hz. I agree with the 33% duty cycle amount though.

Yaris Hilton

06-20-2010, 08:13 PM

Thanks for the link, Parmas!

Parmas

06-21-2010, 06:42 AM

Update:

Today I went to my tuner and we began to check the Stock Crank Trigger in order to configure the ecu accordingly. We found out that the stock toyota crank sensor has a sense config of 37 -3 (Please anyone confirm this) in which the present ecu do not accept this triggering. Infact the ecu is configured to 36 -1 which do not represent my setup....

Please garm or anyone can you confirm this 37-3 triggering?

rob323

06-21-2010, 05:03 PM

I can confirm from my Echo manual that it has 34 teeth, so your 37-3 config might be correct.

Parmas

06-21-2010, 06:09 PM

I can confirm from my Echo manual that it has 34 teeth, so your 37-3 config might be correct.

Thanks rob that relievs me from doubts!

Anyother who wish to confirm this trigger feel free especially garm :smile:

Bluevitz-rs

06-21-2010, 10:10 PM

It's actually 36 minus 2.

This is info coming from a Toyota Canada Technician Trainer.

Edit: So there should be 34 teeth, but only minus 2, not 3.

Parmas

06-22-2010, 05:37 AM

It's actually 36 minus 2.

This is info coming from a Toyota Canada Technician Trainer.

Edit: So there should be 34 teeth, but only minus 2, not 3.

As of Bluevitz post we decided to re check again and count the teeth again. I didn't mention before but we have not opened the motor to count it directly but we are counting them from the crank sensor hole so there is a possibility we counted 1 missing tooth more.

It is strange the uneven number of 37 so we conclude that the trigger is effectively 36 -2 as Bluevitz-rs mentioned

Parmas

08-07-2010, 09:17 AM

I have a problem regarding the IDLE control connection. Do anyone knows where I can find a diagram showing the idle control connector and it's terminal connections.

The connector is 3 wire : Red/Black Yellow/Black Brown

I need this to connect it to the standalone ecu.

Parmas

08-12-2010, 08:27 AM

UPDATE:

Wiring is almost ready .... the only things remaining is Launch control and Table switches to wire up. Also changing some oil and water braided pipes to some anodized color threads which look awesome for me.

I didn't bother taking pics since you would only see a mess of wiring which still needs to be organized.

Stay tuned!

cali yaris

08-12-2010, 12:21 PM

I want to see the mess of wiring! Pictures always! :smile:

Parmas

08-13-2010, 06:35 AM

I want to see the mess of wiring! Pictures always! :smile:

YOU WANT PICS HERE THEY ARE :biggrin:

By sequence:

1. 4 x Haltech Igniton modules . 1 Ignitor per coil for maximum energy efficiency

2. Honda CBR600 Coil with custom made rubber cushion at the top. Grommet of a stabilizer link haha

3. Coil Setup. Please note that coils are not tighten, that's way there is a gap!

4. Front View.... still way to go for a clean setup

5. The box of my dreams :smile:

6. Ohhh myyy ... a day of work to clean the mess

Cheers

changchewsoon

08-13-2010, 12:54 PM

parmas nice work! and i can see you're running the haltech platinum sport ecu! good choice...

Focus_Sh1ft

08-13-2010, 01:10 PM

Tbh, my head exploded looking at that last picture.

cali yaris

08-13-2010, 01:15 PM

LOL, that's the easy part!

Thanks for posting, that makes it fun to check the thread!! :bow:

scioncrew

08-13-2010, 05:07 PM

that remines me of your car Garm :)

cali yaris

08-13-2010, 05:14 PM

^ YES!! :biggrin: see the influence you've had?

Parmas

08-13-2010, 05:38 PM

Thanks for the comments I really need to cheer up since the most irritant part is coming..... Organizing all the mess! By the way this time I am doing all my way, no tuner is involved here, it's only my work of art. Then up on the dyno goes to the professionals and I am hoping for some nice numbers.

As a brief all the sensors, idle control, injectors and ignition is wired up. Tomorrow I will begin testing out the setup beginning from the coils. If ignition shows good spark I will give a try to start the engine at least, then tune it on dyno.

Looking into the Haltech software shows much more details... from gauges to 3D graph maps. Main Settings are unlimited which can probably control any type of engine out there. It also support Ivtec or VVTL-I at full setting with fuel and ignition maps only for them. Will take pictures of software as soon as all is done.

Parmas

08-14-2010, 12:50 PM

Update:

Spent a day working on wiring and on the engine bay part wiring is complete although I need to figure out a nice plate to hide the side wiring.

Also arranged inside wiring but ran out of cable ties so I had to stop :mad:

Spark was tested on all 4 coils and ignitors with the help of my gf cranking the engine :smile: . All gave a good spark so ignition is ok.

Next.... still need to complete in car wiring and installing launch control toggle switch. If there is more time I will try starting the engine and prays god all goes well :bow:

Stay tuned!

changchewsoon

08-16-2010, 03:38 PM

hi parmas, now that you're using the haltech platinum sport ecu may i entice you with this?

it plugs straight to the ecu via a single vnet cable and it displays everything the ecu sees...

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QajCrfAmxEU
Link 1: http://www.viosturbo.com/2010/04/stage-2-turbo-project-haltech-iq3_24.html
Link 2: http://www.viosturbo.com/2010/05/sneak-preview-haltech-iq3-display-dash.html

im very sure you'll definitely fall in love with it :biggrin: :biggrin:

cali yaris

08-16-2010, 05:14 PM

mmmm... I'll do a digital dash in the future for sure.

Parmas

08-17-2010, 01:34 AM

The display is cool but now I am not in the mood for more expenses.

If the engine reacts well with the combined ecu I will sure invest more on the car.... if not ( and prays god nooo) I have to sell the engine and go back to stock.

changchewsoon

08-17-2010, 03:47 PM

parmas don't give up yet, garm and i and lots of other people have been getting positive outcomes with the 1nz-fe engine.

we're here to help and share if you ever need anything man!

pimp my yaris

08-17-2010, 07:39 PM

Holly heat wrap batman. That looks like an awsome project. Sweet display.

Parmas

08-18-2010, 02:14 AM

parmas don't give up yet, garm and i and lots of other people have been getting positive outcomes with the 1nz-fe engine.

we're here to help and share if you ever need anything man!

I appreciate this comment. People like you make me struggle for success :smile:

Parmas

08-23-2010, 03:25 PM

Today changed engine oil and coolant and installed the "NEW" Teflon braided pipe for the turbo water line. Also all in cabin wiring is finished and arranged it like it never been there :smile:.

During the turbo water line installation I came to notice that the idle control on the throttle body has the coolant pipes missing (In and Out). Then I understood that these were being used to feed coolant to the turbo from the beginning. So I ask are these essentially needed for the idle control to work fine also since I changed the engine management? What are the consequences of these removed?

Also I need to know some information on the Idle control like frequency and normal operating conditions. I attached a screenshot of the page of the ecu software to set this up

cali yaris

08-23-2010, 05:28 PM

I know I'm not using those on my TB

Parmas

08-27-2010, 09:44 AM

Today I tried to start the engine but it seems there is something blocking the startup since it is stopping cranking after only few seconds.

I tried to increase fuel on the rpm range but still no start. After I came across this describtion of the starter on the manual and it says :

"IN CASE THAT THE STARTER BEGINS TO OPERATE, BUT CANNOT DETECT THE ENGINE SPEED SIGNAL, THE ECM WILL STOP THE STARTER OPERATION IMMEDIATELY"

Then I began to think that since I am operating the starter through the stock toyota ecu and I disconnected the engine speed signal (which is the Crank Trigger Sensor) and connected it to the Haltech Ecu, the stock ecu is surely not detecting the crank trigger and is probably stopping startup. I am not sure about this but it could be plausable.

Now I decided to eliminate the starter by using an external relay and a push button.

Although I am not sure about this so Garm or any other that has changed their ecu should tell if this is true or not.

Parmas

08-28-2010, 08:11 AM

Here is the current setup

Parmas

08-28-2010, 03:58 PM

I would like the experts to confirm with me about the Triggering of the engine in relation to Camshaft position.

Main needs are:

1. Trigger Angle

2. Tooth Offset between crank trigger and camshaft trigger

3. Trigger / Home Edge

Parmas

09-15-2010, 02:59 PM

All is ready and prepared for the dyno tune. It is scheduled to be within the next week so cross hands all goes well to jump to some nice numbers.

I think I finally earned this after 2 years owning the engine it has not passed 500miles on it!

The only thing remaining is putting on the bumper in place and we are ready to go.

pimp my yaris

09-15-2010, 03:58 PM

Looks good. All Business.:drool:

changchewsoon

09-19-2010, 12:39 PM

time to make some serious power parmas, can't wait to see the numbers on the dyno!

cali yaris

09-19-2010, 12:59 PM

CLEAN - you are ready!

Parmas

10-28-2010, 02:08 PM

Car was brought to the tuning facility for tuning.

For a change we had trouble keeping the engine on idle and was misfiring as hell. The tuner said that probably it is something related to the camshafts \ VVti activation position etc...

We brought another standard engine to compare values of crank triggering versus camshaft positions etc... which are still working on it.

Tomorrow will check the intake manifold and throttle body for leaks just in case. Also need to change the oil turbo feed line since the tuner said it is too wide than normal condtions.

I would like to know what happens to the camshaft position if you disconnect the Cam timing plug (near the alternator) . Would it become fully retarded or fully advanced or a certain degree?

This answer will help the tuner much with his issues!

Bluevitz-rs

10-28-2010, 04:04 PM

^ unplugging the VVTi solenoid leaves the cam at 0°. So no advance.

advocate

10-29-2010, 01:48 AM

Parmas,

That haltech digital dash is absolutely stunning.

I saw one of these in a rally car the other day and figured I would never be able to have anything nearly as cool as that in my car so seeing it in front of your dash has made me really excited to start working on my engine once the funds become available.

Keep going strong man we're rooting for you.

Parmas

10-29-2010, 09:56 AM

cali yaris

10-29-2010, 10:57 AM

^ Me neither but I would like to do a digital dash, right in front of me (where it belongs? LOL), someday.

Parmas

10-29-2010, 12:18 PM

I brought the car to my tuner that specifically recommends Haltech ecus. He worked about 2 days trying to start but the engine persist to misfire and cannot remain idle at all. We checked the triggerring signal and it seems to be inconsistent everytime we try to start the engine. He also tried to vary filtering levels but invain.

My tuner is about sure that the problem might be coming from an issue specifically related to the 36-2 + 3 Sequence Toyota use.

Garm, did you had any issues with your AEM ecu regarding triggering?

cali yaris

10-29-2010, 01:45 PM

^ no problems at all, sorry!

Parmas

10-30-2010, 03:39 AM

cali yaris

10-30-2010, 03:07 PM

oh man that is tough -- so sorry you've gone through so much to get this far, but it's SO close now!

Parmas

11-20-2010, 01:43 PM

ITS ALIVE IT'S ALIVE

A fu*king ignition module was the reason. Thanks to haltech support I was able to solve the problem after they got me replaced with new coils instead. Now it idles like a sweet girl smiles at you and rev up like never before and this only with a map sent from haltech!!

Now I need to install the last few bits:

- NST 3x pulley kit
- Nitto torque damper
- Celica 2ZZ-GE intake manifold + 2ZZ-GE 72mm throttle Body

Also I noticed that from the output hole of the turbo (that goes into the intercooler piping) it leaks some oil from it. It happens when revving much the engine. Could be the seals of the turbo that need replacement or should I leave it?

What I need to do? Is it expensive to repair it? What are the items needed?

cali yaris

11-20-2010, 01:52 PM

congrats that is awesome

Parmas

11-20-2010, 02:51 PM

congrats that is awesome

What do you suggest about the turbo oil leak problem garm?

Yoda

11-20-2010, 04:43 PM

What's your oil pressure like when u rev it?

Parmas

11-27-2010, 04:26 AM

And look what arrived yesterday!

A 2ZZ intake with a 70mm throttle body! Tried fitting on spare engine and there are only minor issues to solve :

- To mate the 1NZ intake flange with the 2ZZ intake
- Some clearing issues on the front ( It could be that the intake hit radiator piping)
- Right Mounting holes
- Increase length of right intercooler pipe due to throttle body at an angle

If this works I cannot say what are the gains but at least I can show that it can be done!

Parmas

12-07-2010, 03:13 PM

Please check this thread.... http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=539932#post539932

Blown_xa

12-12-2010, 09:26 PM

The problem is about sure that is a software issue but we need Haltech support to solve it before we continue.... sooo the car goes back again into my fu..ing garage.

If haltech will not solve it within the next month I have no choice but to make custom triggering wheels for the crank and the cam using Haltech Hall Effect sensors.

I hope this would be the last issue as I am really pissed of about this engine and it is making me sick.

they (haltec), may have told u this already, the crank trigger settings are the same as the scion tc (they flew to our shop to create basemap on our dyno). are you using the sport 1000 or sprint 500? if you ever run into the issue of accelerating hard thru the gears and then the car hits a "cut", pm me and ill tell u the fix, has to do with the crank trigger voltage and filter settings.
cool build!

Parmas

12-13-2010, 09:19 AM

they (haltec), may have told u this already, the crank trigger settings are the same as the scion tc (they flew to our shop to create basemap on our dyno). are you using the sport 1000 or sprint 500? if you ever run into the issue of accelerating hard thru the gears and then the car hits a "cut", pm me and ill tell u the fix, has to do with the crank trigger voltage and filter settings.
cool build!

Hi man, the issue wasn't the triggering but the ignition modules. Haltech replaced them with built in ignitor coils and worked like a charm.

Now I am tuning the engine myself and till now I done mapping of the engine with 9psi boost and 5000rpm [with AFR LOW 14 / HI 10.5 (boost) ]. This week I am preparing the car for the final tune which is the 2ZZ intake. If all goes fine, I have to retune the engine for the larger o/d of the 2ZZ intake Throttle Body (70mm) and runners :biggrin:

Blown_xa

12-13-2010, 08:15 PM

Hi man, the issue wasn't the triggering but the ignition modules. Haltech replaced them with built in ignitor coils and worked like a charm.

Now I am tuning the engine myself and till now I done mapping of the engine with 9psi boost and 5000rpm [with AFR LOW 14 / HI 10.5 (boost) ]. This week I am preparing the car for the final tune which is the 2ZZ intake. If all goes fine, I have to retune the engine for the larger o/d of the 2ZZ intake Throttle Body (70mm) and runners :biggrin:

sweet, love that haltec software i bet. It is really nice. That 70mm throttle body should open up a lot of power.

fnkngrv

12-13-2010, 08:45 PM

the human head weighs 8 pounds

Parmas

12-15-2010, 05:15 AM

sweet, love that haltec software i bet. It is really nice. That 70mm throttle body should open up a lot of power.

After my experience with this unit, I can say it is worth the money and since now I seen no issues with it. Solid rock ecu, full of description on all option tabs ( a must for beginners ) and reliable performance. Also to consider that it is good for almost any engine and features latest cam control technology + stock sensor compatability.

I am no expert on tuning, and with this unit I was capable to tune a reliable 9psi boost till 5000rpm (at least for now :) )

I am hoping better response with this intake. Let's be straight, If any would tell you what do you prefer between a custom intake or a Toyota proven one, I vote for Toyota and here it is! :biggrin:

I hope it will be ready for a christmas present to my self :smile:

cdydjded

12-15-2010, 01:02 PM

I am hoping better response with this intake. Let's be straight, If any would tell you what do you prefer between a custom intake or a Toyota proven one, I vote for Toyota and here it is! :biggrin:

Can you explained to me what is your logic on using a manifold from an engine that is 1.8 liters & revs 8000rpm on a 1.5 liter that revs 6300rpm? Are you aware that intake manifolds are designed to work within a specific RPM range? I dont get why you would think that the factory manifold from the 2ZZ would be a manifold than a custom one engineered to work for a specific engine combination.

Parmas

12-15-2010, 06:11 PM

1. Can you explain to me what is your logic on using a manifold from an engine that is 1.8 liters & revs 8000rpm on a 1.5 liter that revs 6300rpm?

2. Are you aware that intake manifolds are designed to work within a specific RPM range?

3. I dont get why you would think that the factory manifold from the 2ZZ would be a better manifold than a custom one engineered to work for a specific engine combination.

1. I am no expert in intake manifolds but I am sure this manifold will definetly show more gains than the stock one. Since it was used on a 1.8L engine which revs 8000rpm it will surely be a plus with a 1.5L turbo engine.

2. I am sure it is the case, but who cares now that I am turbocharged. The stock intake wasn't designed to be used with forced induction.

3. The only answer for this is the price. The 2ZZ manifold + 2ZZ TB cost me half or lower than a quoted custom intake manifold only!

Bluevitz-rs

12-15-2010, 07:57 PM

Do you have any pictures of the progress on the manifold? Is he just custom fabricating the upper portion of the manifold so it fits the 1NZ head and the lower part of the 2ZZ manifold?

cdydjded

12-15-2010, 08:12 PM

1. I am no expert in intake manifolds but I am sure this manifold will definetly show more gains than the stock one. Since it was used on a 1.8L engine which revs 8000rpm it will surely be a plus with a 1.5L turbo engine.

2. I am sure it is the case, but who cares now that I am turbocharged. The stock intake wasn't designed to be used with forced induction.

3. The only answer for this is the price. The 2ZZ manifold + 2ZZ TB cost me half or lower than a quoted custom intake manifold only!

1)Again you yourself admit no expertise on intake manifolds. So your logic makes no sense. You are going to waste your time & money.
2)You are correct about the stock manifold, but no one has reached the max limits of it. And the 2zz was also never designed for boost.
3)You will never get anywhere by cutting corners, especially price. Cheaper is never better. There are many reasons custom intake manifold are expensive.

Bluevitz-rs

12-15-2010, 08:51 PM

1)Again you yourself admit no expertise on intake manifolds. So your logic makes no sense. You are going to waste your time & money.
2)You are correct about the stock manifold, but no one has reached the max limits of it. And the 2zz was also never designed for boost.
3)You will never get anywhere by cutting corners, especially price. Cheaper is never better. There are many reasons custom intake manifold are expensive.

Well, the way you're giving advice you seem to be an expert on intakes manifolds. So how would you go about improving forced airflow without spending 5 grand on design and testing until you have the best possible flow you can have?

cdydjded

12-15-2010, 09:27 PM

I dont & will never claim to be an expert, but thx for the compliment ; )

I can tell you that long manifold runners are not made for boost, short runners are. So a manifold with shorter runners would improve airflow on boosted application. But there are many factors that need to be taken in cosideration such as:
Turbo size
Boost level
Cylinder head flow
Intended use (street or strip)

Im going to read over all of Parmas posts to give you my thoughts on the matter....

cdydjded

12-15-2010, 09:59 PM

Bluevitz-rs

12-15-2010, 11:49 PM

well the 2zz manifold does indeed have shorter runner than the 1nz, so I don't see why it wouldn't be better.

Parmas

12-16-2010, 06:11 AM

After reading 21 pages of post all I can see is an engine that makes 250hp & that Parmas cant stop adding parts to his car. He need to stop making adding thinga & tune & dyno the car as it is. Thats my 2 cents...

I asure you this "adding thinga" is about to stop as this is my last engine upgrade I intend to do on the car. From the beginning, I never been proud having that plastic intake manifold and I always thought of something to replace it. The problem was the costs and when I saw this intake I was actually in love.

If this intake shows better or even a slight difference in response, I would never say it was money wasted because I like the setup more with this intake rather the stock one.

I am sure a custom one specifically for the setup would better but I don't have that kind of money to waste more on engine parts. After all finished, I intend to dyno the car to get the results.

cali yaris

12-16-2010, 11:12 AM

After reading 21 pages of post all I can see is an engine that makes 250hp & that Parmas cant stop adding parts to his car.

wow. Do you enjoy trying to make people feel bad about their projects?

Yoda

12-16-2010, 11:19 AM

^rofl lol

cdydjded

12-16-2010, 12:52 PM

wow. Do you enjoy trying to make people feel bad about their projects?

Cmon are you kidding me! What part of what I put was not true? I didnt insult him & he repeated what I stated. He said:
"I asure you this "adding things" is about to stop as this is my last engine upgrade"

If one is not aloud to give an opinion or states facts here then what is this forum for?

He can do whatever he want. I nor anyone has the right to stop him. But I can advise him on what I feel is a waste of time & $$$. If Im wrong then ILL be the first to admit it.

Parmas

12-16-2010, 06:53 PM

If one is not aloud to give an opinion or states facts here then what is this forum for?

He can do whatever he want. I nor anyone has the right to stop him. But I can advise him on what I feel is a waste of time & $$$. If Im wrong then ILL be the first to admit it.

The fact that matters is how you put your opinion in a forum and to think before jumping to conclusions. I don't won't to say you are right nor wrong on this intake subject but yet you can't aswell.

I don't know you, nor what do you own but if you ever got a chance to put a 2ZZ intake on our engines and proved that on dyno that would not worth the money then you have all rights here. But since you are putting all words just like a matter of theories and no plausable real numbers, you can never say I am wasting time and money!

If I had the money I would dyno with the stock intake and after with the 2ZZ intake. At least I am one of the people who take risks on their project to succeed. If not, go rewind and all what there was goes go back again!

cdydjded

12-16-2010, 07:15 PM

Parmas

12-16-2010, 07:18 PM

cdydjded

12-16-2010, 08:18 PM

Sorry didnt understand what you said.....

Parmas

12-17-2010, 03:19 AM

Sorry didnt understand what you said.....

To prove you wrong, I need to do a custom intake, dyno it and after getting results.... remove the custom intake, replace with the 2ZZ intake, dyno it and compare.

But never mind, I don't have that time or money to do such thing

cdydjded

12-17-2010, 11:29 AM

Sounds like I convinced you that what you are doing wont work. Please forget all that has been said here & just install the 2zz manifold on the 1NZ like you planned. Prove me wrong just with that manifold. I want you to succeed. I want you to prove me wrong on your initial idea.

BTW you are aware that weapon R has a sheet metal manifold for the xB? It would be alot easier to modify that manifold to our car.....

Bluevitz-rs

12-17-2010, 11:34 AM

BTW you are aware that weapon R has a sheet metal manifold for the xB? It would be alot easier to modify that manifold to our car.....

His car's a first gen, so it would be bolt on.

cdydjded

12-17-2010, 02:24 PM

His car's a first gen, so it would be bolt on.

Good point, there you go, there's a low cost logical option : )

Parmas

12-17-2010, 05:56 PM

Good point, there you go, there's a low cost logical option : )

Low cost? I just went to the weapon r website and the price is as high as $600 + $? shipping. The 2ZZ intake + throttle body + shipping was $300. Add a $50 job to make the adjustments + $80 intake flange.

For about $430 I get an intake with only welding on the flange, a 70mm throttle body which the weapon -r don't include and if I am not mistaken the runners of the 2ZZ are shorter which is better.

Also I can add $20 for polish and spray the intake as shiny as the weapon-r and that would be all.

I done my homework :smile:

cdydjded

12-17-2010, 08:34 PM

1) Whats on their website is retail, no one pays retail.
2) Here is the intake for $478, just $48 more than what you think you cost of modifictions will be http://www.airintakeheaven.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Intake-Manifold/Default.aspx?gfid=p2735-c125825
3) I find it hard to beleive that you are only going to pay $50 to make the 2zz runners match the 1nz ports. The pic you post clearly show that the ports do not lin up at all. There is at least a 1/2 difference between them

Like i said please prove me wrong. Theory (homework) vs practice (actually doing it).......

Parmas

12-18-2010, 05:02 AM

$478 dollars should be a good deal if it includes shipping costs, duty charges and a throttle body!

Don't get me wrong but I forgot to tell you that one of the main reasons I decided for the 2ZZ intake, is that I like to own unique parts for my build.

As regards to not believing in paying $50 should be understood from here. The person in charge of this, worked all the stainless intercooler piping, exhaust manifold, turbo downpipe, rear mounting hardend and full exhaust on my car. Since a lot of work was done, he is ready to take off some $ from the total as I was a fellow customer through out these years. Cheers

turboecho2005

12-18-2010, 08:24 AM

IMO your wasting you time & $$$. It doesnt matter if you accept it or not. I know what I know & what you are doing has no logic. All I can say is prove me wrong. I want you to succeed. I will be the 1st person to say I was wrong. Good luck : )........

Putting any money into a car is a complete waste.

Turbocharging these econoboxs is a complete waste also.

And really who cares about time. Building a car isn't about who can make their car faster, sooner. Its about learning and enjoying the time working on the car. I've been working on cars for about 20 years and hope to keep my echo for atleast another 20 years. My ultimate plan for my echo is to make over 1000hp (since over 500hp is currently not enough :iono:). But this is also a HUGE waste of money. As long as you know you are wasting money then its ok.

Sure its great to have a car and modify it. I have an 89 Isuzu imark Rs. I have spent $5000 restoring the body of the car to have it 100% flawless. The car is bone stock though. Its just my summer daily driver. The car has a book value of maybe $2000. In the end i am sure i am near $7k or $8k from start to finish. Why did i do it... because i love isuzus and have been working on them for over 10 years now. But I don't plan on ever selling it either. Having a car project is about working on a car... enjoying the time spent... learning new things... getting satisfaction out of it and then moving on to another project.

As long as parmas enjoys working on his car. Gets satisfaction out of it. Who cares about how much money and time he spends.

Focus_Sh1ft

12-18-2010, 12:39 PM

Turbocharging these econoboxs is a complete waste also.

Sorry, but I completely disagree. 8 psi doubles the whp on these cars, so if anything these are arguably some of the smartest cars to turbocharge. If you're suggesting fuel economy goes in the crapper afterwards, I'd have to disagree again. With a good tune, I haven't noticed a loss in fuel economy at all.

In fact, everything you're saying ends up being a contradiction. Spending money on modifying a car is NOT a waste if you thoroughly enjoy what you're doing. If you're out to impress others, then you're pissing away a ton of money. Especially because there's always going to be people who are never impressed (aka jealous as hell).

cali yaris

12-18-2010, 01:14 PM

^ If you take his post in its entirety and don't cherry pick one sentence, you can see that what he meant by "waste" is that you don't get your money back out of the investment in a tangible way.

turboecho has spent more than most of us on his projects and was happy to do it. You can see by the last sentence that he is cheering Parmas on.

carlos, you have 633 posts -- is there one where you admit you're wrong, about anything?

Go for it Parmas, keep at it - your build has taught me a few things.

I think a Mod should delete all this crap - including mine.

changchewsoon

12-29-2010, 10:33 AM

ah, i've been out of action for a while due to frequent business trips. i see that parmas has made improvement and progress! kudos bro!

well, i've been adding parts non stop to my car too and it has made zero horsepower so far because the built isn't finished yet.

so, i guess i need to start feeling like sh*t now because somebody here thinks by doing all these mods and adding all these parts its a waste of time eh?

i've learned so much from this site because there are good people here whose willing to share, and i hope to be able to return the favor in the future as well.

heh, parmas i think you should ignore all those nay sayers and just go ahead and complete your build. do what you want with it, and we thank you for sharing it with us.

Parmas

12-30-2010, 04:39 AM

johnny_vitz

01-01-2011, 01:16 PM

Awesome build parmas, don't let anyone tell you different. Did you make a final choice on which intake to go with?

Parmas

01-01-2011, 10:42 PM

Awesome build parmas, don't let anyone tell you different. Did you make a final choice on which intake to go with?

Still working on fitting the 2ZZ intake although we stopped due to holidays. Updates next week....

Parmas

01-14-2011, 04:35 AM

Today I woke adventurous and tried to explain myself why this oil leak is happening.

Since the turbo is behind the engine, compactly placed between the rear of the engine bay and a squid form long manifold it was always like a taboo for me since it is out of reach. I managed to reach the lower inlet part of the turbo and got a nice black oil leak on my finger. If I could explain more exactly, it was exactly at the Big Circlip on the lower intake side (The upper side is dry)Attachment 2743Attachment 2742Attachment 2741. A walk with my finger around it feeled wet (but not much with oil).

During my adventure I noticed the turbo oil feed and drain. They are not exactly in a vertical position (feed north and drain south) but they look more (feed NorthWest and drain South east). Apart of that, the drain is fixed with a 45 degree fitting and then slanting (not vertical) downwards.

The last picture posted why the turbo was mounted this way up because if we tilted more it would hit the engine top cover. So I ask, is there a way to clock the turbo right to get a vertical feed to drain? Also When clocking the turbo will it move only the center bearing housing?

cdydjded

01-14-2011, 12:00 PM

This might answer most of you questions:
Oil Drain
In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient
for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole
in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking
of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil
outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level
ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that
oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:
Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
Draining into oil pan below oil level
Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft
When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel
to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within
15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

BTW are you using an oil inlet restricter? If not you might have to much oil pressure going into the turbo. That will cause leaks.

Parmas

01-14-2011, 02:16 PM

Thanks cdydjded...

The drain is about double the size of the feed that is sure.

What do you mean by scavenge pump?

I don't know exactly what do you mean by oil inlet restrictor but the turbo feed fitting has an inner hole diameter of about 2~3mm

I know ball bearing turbos don't need much oil to work efficiently but how can I know I am giving the right amount of oil flow/pressure?

cdydjded

01-14-2011, 02:48 PM

haschel

01-14-2011, 08:37 PM

Oil pressure in the turbo must be:

Idle hot: 5 psi
Maximum load: 25 psi

Idle hot min. flow: 0.1 gal/min
Maximum load: 0.5 gal/min

Parmas

01-15-2011, 01:48 AM

Oil pressure in the turbo must be:

Idle hot: 5 psi
Maximum load: 25 psi

Idle hot min. flow: 0.1 gal/min
Maximum load: 0.5 gal/min

From where did you get this information? Is it a general rule on ball bearing turbos?

haschel

01-15-2011, 03:48 PM

Yoda

01-15-2011, 06:21 PM

Dont worry about the scavenge pump. It really doesnt apply to your issue. You oil feed line should be a -3 or -4 hose & your oil return should be a -8 or -10.

Here is a pic of the oil feed pressure restrictor:
39382

This lowers the oil pressure going into the turbo. You dont need any more than 30-40psi of oil to go into the turbo.

Question. What if the restrictor is placed not on the turbo itself but from the feeding source and the the feed line run from it to the turbo. You should get the same pressure through the line to the turbo right. Reason i ask is that it would be a real pain and much labor for me to take out the turbo to put the restrictor on it. I would rather put it on the source.

cdydjded

01-15-2011, 07:53 PM

Question. What if the restrictor is placed not on the turbo itself but from the feeding source and the the feed line run from it to the turbo. You should get the same pressure through the line to the turbo right. Reason i ask is that it would be a real pain and much labor for me to take out the turbo to put the restrictor on it. I would rather put it on the source.

The position on the restrictor (on the turbo or off the oil feed log) doesnt matter. Either way will lower the oil pressure to the turbo.

cdydjded

01-15-2011, 07:57 PM

I take this information in the book Maximum Boost from Corky Bell

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295120802&sr=8-1

A very good book for custom turbo kit builder :)

As good as that book is, you cant take everything from it literally. It was written 15yrs ago & ALOT has changed.

Parmas

01-19-2011, 01:37 PM

And here is a nice view of the intake almost finished with the 70mm throttle body flange.

Still need polishing and cleaning metal residue and we are good to go!

cali yaris

01-19-2011, 04:36 PM

looks familiar :smile:

cdydjded

01-19-2011, 05:55 PM

carlos, you have 633 posts -- is there one where you admit you're wrong, about anything?

Just for you, Post 309
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30308&page=18

Parmas

01-20-2011, 01:18 PM

I couldn't resist not to take a picture on the car with the engine bay looking messy but man Fu*k me I'm happy with this intake already. It looks gorgoues and I hope it feels better than it looks like!

This is estimated to finish this week as I am doing a custom catch can (Finally ! ) , re-routing of the first & last part of the intercooler piping and some minor issues with the exhaust hitting the frame chassis.

Prays god this will not give me hard time to settle the engine ones again ..... we have some tuning to re-do!

Scubaru Steve

01-20-2011, 01:31 PM

questions...
where did you get that?
how can i get one?
will it fit under the stock plastic cover?

Parmas

01-20-2011, 01:48 PM

questions...
where did you get that?

From a great guy nicknamed Zisco

how can i get one?

Unfortunately its custom made job, not exactly available for sale

will it fit under the stock plastic cover?

I don't see why it shouldn't

Cheers

cdydjded

01-20-2011, 03:11 PM

Looks good....

Yoda

01-20-2011, 07:50 PM

i want dyno

scioncrew

01-21-2011, 12:56 AM

i like the way it looks :thumbup:

johnny_vitz

01-21-2011, 10:53 PM

That is one sexy intake!

Parmas

01-22-2011, 07:27 AM

Intake setup was finished today. The engine started and ran without even needing a tune.

Also re-routed water lines and intercooler piping (which I need to re-spray though).

The only issue I have is that because of the larger throttle body the idle is at a still on 2000 rpm which is much. The TPS and Idle control connectors match perfectly but I cannot get the idle control work in order to slow idle as I need.

The throttle body is of the 2ZZGE used on Celicas and Vibe GT series cars. I would need the car owners manual to check what is the exact frequency of the idle control motor.

Also made a stainless custom catch can but still needs to setup the fittings.

Next up is the NST crank pulley and we are done!

cali yaris

01-22-2011, 11:32 AM

:clap:

so nice

Yoda

01-22-2011, 11:33 AM

sweet. its been a long time coming and you are so close. Happy for you man

CtrlAltDefeat

01-25-2011, 07:22 AM

zexy!

pimp my yaris

01-25-2011, 09:39 AM

That is one tight engine compartment. All Business! It will make any car owner thinking of running against you, think twice.:w00t:

Parmas

01-25-2011, 12:35 PM

That is one tight engine compartment. All Business! It will make any car owner thinking of running against you, think twice.:w00t:

Yes it is tight and pretty annoying working on it since you have to remove several pieces to reach some things but I am happy with that as long as it works :biggrin:

Update .. working on a 3 gauge setup of oil pressure/ temp / water temp. Still need to arrange wiring and will post a picture of them as soon as I have time.

xbgod

01-25-2011, 01:00 PM

Lookin good dude. Thank god your turbo'd, cause I don't think that intake manifod will work right on a N/A cars. Not quite sure it's mathamaticly correct by designe. My buddy Chris at Weapon-R went through two designes before it made power instead of loosing it. Looks good though dude. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

XBG

cali yaris

01-25-2011, 02:57 PM

xbgod

01-25-2011, 06:18 PM

I do like the color combo. Haven't seen that combo done.

XBG

Parmas

01-26-2011, 04:09 AM

^ it's good for a turbo app, looks pretty much like mine. He'll make power in the higher end with it and probably lose some torque in exchange.

Longer runners will make more torque, but you gotta do the math, as xbg said.

I didn't try it hard on gears but it seems that for slow running the major difference is throttle response. As soon as I get the gauge setup ready I will continue on my tune...

BTW I found this on ebay/...

I think the problem of the Oil Turbo leak is because I am using a Journal Turbo Fitting instead of Ball Bearing one.

Yoda

01-26-2011, 02:49 PM

How boost you gonna run?

Parmas

01-26-2011, 04:19 PM

How boost you gonna run?

I am trying to tune the engine myself so I am trying to make a nice tune on 9psi only for now and with the Cam timing disconnected so Fully retarded.

After I get the numbers with the 9psi tune, I will activate the VVti and play around again for the best numbers I could achieve.

After that I will leave the VVti on and up the boost 1 psi and tune until I am satisfied with the power end :)

Yoda

01-26-2011, 06:23 PM

Nice taking your time with it. I gonna try to get mine tuned tomorrow have to call around for the right price

Parmas

02-19-2011, 02:53 PM

Here are the latest updates of the engine bay.

- Complete Oil Custom Catch Tank
- Turbo Oil Pressure Gauge
- Added a 3 Gauge Interior Setup

Tuning is almost done. The only thing that remains is tuning on variable camshaft positions

For now I kept low boost (11psi) to verify that the engine holds easily up to 6500rpm. But I am feeling that off boost the engine can improve much more since the camshaft is rather retarded than advanced.

I didn't dyno the engine yet and didn't even try a track time so I cannot post any exact numbers. Also still need to install the much awaited NST crank pulley. The mechs are a bit busy lately so I have to wait for next 2 weekend for another update...

cali yaris

02-19-2011, 04:19 PM

that looks nice.

So you have a separate oil pressure for just the turbo? That looks like a lot of adaptors stacked up! :)

pimp my yaris

02-20-2011, 01:06 PM

Love that intake!

Focus_Sh1ft

02-21-2011, 03:00 PM

Looks great man. :thumbup:

Nexus1155

02-21-2011, 03:08 PM

That looks like a lot of adaptors stacked up! :)

Everything looks so clean! I'm just wondering if it leaks.

Parmas

02-24-2011, 04:50 AM

Everything looks so clean! I'm just wondering if it leaks.

For now it isn't leaking and I am not worrying that it would eventually.

Thanks for the comments :drinking:

Parmas

03-03-2011, 02:30 PM

The idle problem was solved! Last night I dreamed that the idle motor of the 1NZ is the same like the 2ZZ and well it was infact!!!

The problem was the idle control motor not working for a reason now idles like a charm!

Dyno date is expected to be within about 3 weeks and I hope it will be the final tune! I am eagerly waiting for numbers!

turboecho2005

03-04-2011, 07:24 PM

Looks great! You've come a long way with this project. Cant wait to see the dyno numbers.

Parmas

03-08-2011, 06:55 AM

Yesterday I had my car started and noticed it was running different without changing the base map. Noticed the AFR showing stoich on all loads and rpm.

Done a free-air calibration and it could not get it calibrated. Checked with the manual and it is probably the sensor damaged.

The manual stats that for turbo charged engines the sensor must be mounted 12-16 inch from the turbine outlet. Could it be the issue?

Sensor was only used for 2 months.

What are your experiences?

Bluevitz-rs

03-08-2011, 08:15 AM

It could be because it's too hot any closer than 12-16 inches. Was the reading changing at all?

Yoda

03-08-2011, 12:46 PM

What kind of afr gauge you have? You can pull it out and test it.

Focus_Sh1ft

03-08-2011, 02:10 PM

Check continuity maybe?

Yoda

03-08-2011, 03:46 PM

i kno for my aem you can test it with some carb cleaner and a rag

Parmas

03-08-2011, 06:02 PM

The sensor is connected directly to ecu and I can see the values on the Ecu software.

The sensor is Haltech, like the ecu and the reading change slightly from 14-15 on all loads and also when engine is off.

Bluevitz-rs

03-09-2011, 10:04 AM

If it's still reading 14-15 with the engine off, either your software is clamping the sensor or it's gone bad.

Scubaru Steve

03-10-2011, 12:59 PM

Parmas

03-12-2011, 02:49 PM

mine is 4-5 inches from my turbo in my wrx, its worked for 2 years, i believe i need a new sensor now.

as for the sensor reading when the car is off that is normal. the exhaust the piping is that afr, if you leave it on it should slowly slowly dissipate.
free air calibration requires you to remove the sensor from the down pipe in fresh air.

can always try replacing the sensor, i believe most use the 5 or 7 wire bosch. can get them at a decent price mostly.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I tried the free air calibration and didn't change at all. Contacted Haltech directly and he needed a log file of the AFR reading vs Sensor voltage. After he send a reply that from the log it seems that the sensor needs replacement!

I hope the next one will at least be good for one year and not 2 months!

In the meantime I am trying to solve the last issues and installations which are:

- Oil leak from the turbo compressor discharge area
- Need new oil gauges as I have issues with them
- Installation of the NST torque damper
- Installation of the NST crank pulley
- And finally off to the dyno and hope will be ok for long time!

The main thing that is making me nervous is the oil leak from the turbo to the discharge/boost piping. I was thinking that the turbo seals were gone but I went to a Garret distrubtor and checked shaft play and seems fine. He said that for turbos it is normal to have a slight oil leak from the discharge area but I am not sure about it after I read this http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/Garrett_Turbo_System_Optimization.pdf

11 Point Checklist for Turbo Best Performance and Efficiency.

1. Application Information – target horsepower, intended use of vehicle, etc.

- Street / Drag racing. Target Hp 300Hp

2. Air filter sizing - determine size for application needs

- Air filter piping is the same size of the inlet compressor housing

3. Oil Supply - restrictor for ball-bearing turbo

- Ball bearing turbos use 1mm restrictor ( which I have it installed recently )

4. Oil Drain – proper size and routing

- The Drain size seems enough visually but I am not sure how much is the inner diameter. Although I have a suspect in this case.... Since the turbo is behind I can only touch and feel the area and cannot see it with the engine on the car. I am sure I felt a short 90 degree angle fitting exactly after the turbo fitting and it could be there is a bottle neck there. I am trying to re-route the drain to a straight line as possible

5. Water Lines - set up for greatest thermal siphon effect

- Siphone effect means water IN must be connected to lower level than Water Out if (I read well the document in the link). I am using the water lines that were connected to the Idle control motor but I didn't know which is IN or OUT ?

6. Charge Tubing – determine diameter for application needs

- Charge Tubing is 2" which is the same size of the charge outlet of the turbo. I don't see an issue about that.

7. Charge-Air-Cooler - determine core size for application needs, design
manifolds for optimal flow, mount for durability

- Intercooler is a little big but I prefer to have some lag than having high intake temps. Lag should be gone after I increase more boost.

8. BOV – VTA for MAP engines and by-pass for MAF engines

- HKS SSQV BOV seems fine for me

9. Wastegate – connect signal line to compressor outlet, smooth transition to
external wastegate

- Using internal wastegate, no issues with that

10. System Testing – pressurize system to check for leakage, periodically check
clamp tightness and the condition of couplers

- Here is the problem :mad:

11. System Monitoring – proper gauges/sensors to monitor engine for optimal
performance and component durability

- A turbo speed gauge. Is it really needed?

Focus_Sh1ft

03-12-2011, 03:31 PM

Parmas

03-12-2011, 07:24 PM

The location of your oil drain looks fine...

Out of curiosity, what is your cold idle RPMs? I had a lot of blow-by during idle when I had a 1ZZ TB on. cdydjded pointed out that the higher RPM at cold start was causing excessive oil pressure because the polymer strands haven't had enough time to warm up and expand. Hopefully I explained that right. More importantly though, when I put the 1NZ TB back on and effectively lowered the cold idle RPMs, blow-by seemed to have disappeared.

I set cold idle to be above 2000 rpm until it reaches 50C it quits to 1400. I set this high rpm as noticed many factory cars use the same technique to warm the engine quickly to operational point. Mine warms up within a minute or two on idle.

I don't think this is related to the oil leak since when the oil is cold it is thicker than when it's hot so if it leaks at 2000rpm when cold it should also leak when at 1400rpm when hot!

Also I was thinking that maybe the engine needs to breath more through the Top Cover. I was thinking of maybe making bigger inner diameter fittings and a larger breather on the outside. Could it be one of the issues?

Parmas

03-27-2011, 06:51 AM

I got the turbo checked by a specialist regarding the compressor oil leak and he said it is fine and there is no play with the shafts and it must be something with the drain.

So I am arranging the drain setup to a straight line and a bigger o/d pipe to try to solve this forever.

In the meantime I done some works while the turbo and manifold are out.

Will post some pics of the drain new setup when it is ready

ilikerice

03-27-2011, 07:31 AM

quick question.. i know the reasoning behind the exhuast wrap, but is it nessissary on the yaris for safty or are you just doing it for added performance?

Parmas

03-27-2011, 01:53 PM

quick question.. i know the reasoning behind the exhuast wrap, but is it nessissary on the yaris for safty or are you just doing it for added performance?

The reason is both.

1. Prevent heat to damage or wear any parts like gear cables, hydraulic tubing and any other thing in its vicinity. (Especially for our small engine bay this is one to take care of) . I already replaced 2 gear cables because of this btw!

2. With the Thermal barrier paint plus the Exhaust wrap I am hoping to obtain lower engine bay temps to at least 10C lower as advertised. Also with the wrapping you are keeping the exhaust gases as hot as possible. The hotter the gases, the better they flow and with all going to the Turbo you might sense a better or earlier spool up.

Parmas

03-31-2011, 03:32 AM

Finally installed the NST crank pulley set. No issues yet....

Yoda

03-31-2011, 04:44 PM

And there won't be.

Parmas

04-01-2011, 07:24 AM

And there won't be.

Today I had some time to fix the power steering and alternator belt in place. With the power steering belt had no issues at all.

Although with the Alternator Belt I had issues with it. I have all 3 pulley NST set and the belt matches perfectly the alternator pulley while in the crank pulley it is a little bit tighter. Infact the belt curves through the edges of the crank pulley. Pushing it with my finger with some force it sits ok while on the alternator pulley it sits easy.

Is there anyone having this issue?

Could the belt slip if I try to run it like this?

Bluevitz-rs

04-01-2011, 10:01 AM

maybe a picture might clear this up better.

pimp my yaris

04-01-2011, 04:12 PM

I have my aem wideband in the same location as yours. Did U find out why yours stopped working? Mine is working good. But the stock sensor that was located right next to it is fried. Mabe heat? I dont know. I had to lengthen the wiring on the stock sensor so it would reach. Engine compartment looks sweet!

cdydjded

04-01-2011, 04:29 PM

Parmas

04-01-2011, 05:58 PM

To blue vitz - I will take one tomorrow. Probably I have to remove it again and modify the width of the pulley where the belt fits.

As regarding to the sensor, AEM and any brand that make widebands recommend at least 14 inch down from the turbo. So by rule mine is located wrong and I am thinking of doing it the right way they recommend.

To cdydjded - I already have 2 sensors in stock ready to install but thanks!

Parmas

04-02-2011, 05:50 PM

I couldn't get a good picture for you to review although I managed to fix the pulley by machining a bit from one side. Now the belts hook fine with no problems

Bluevitz-rs

04-02-2011, 07:39 PM

:thumbsup:

Parmas

04-03-2011, 05:15 PM

Drain fixed to a straight line with bigger inner tubing. Wrapped the tube with titanium since it is passing through lots of heat there.

Sorry but picture was taken by my mobile..

johnny_vitz

04-03-2011, 07:53 PM

Have you put the manifold back on since the wrap went on? It looks like you might have a hell of a time trying to get a couple of the bolts done up:iono:

Parmas

04-04-2011, 04:40 AM

Have you put the manifold back on since the wrap went on? It looks like you might have a hell of a time trying to get a couple of the bolts done up:iono:

Yes infact the middle bolt of the manifold flange needed to be replaced to a shorter one because of the drain going down exactly infront. Took me about 10min to fix that only bolt in due to lack of space.

johnny_vitz

04-04-2011, 07:46 PM

Yes infact the middle bolt of the manifold flange needed to be replaced to a shorter one because of the drain going down exactly infront. Took me about 10min to fix that only bolt in due to lack of space.

Oh, ok :biggrin: Looked a bit tight in there...
Wrap looks good, I just bought some to do my header...eventually.

Parmas

04-05-2011, 01:45 AM

Oh, ok :biggrin: Looked a bit tight in there...
Wrap looks good, I just bought some to do my header...eventually.

I hope you have my patience cause you really need with it. Good luck :thumbsup:

Parmas

05-24-2011, 04:02 PM

Yes I'm late posting.... I have been busy with lots of works out on going project and this is finally the last mod since there isn't any other space available now LOL!

Summer special tune.... Idividual Twin Radiator setup. The aftermarket rad is fitted after the turbo line in order to prevent unwanted heat from the turbo affecting engine temperature... I was seeing 90C and over with the fan on. Also I installed another fan on the front which is visible on the picture as an add on!

I also installed the Torque damper with lots of custom work to make it fit and also an exhaust motor that cuts the exhaust from the middle. Next thing up dyno although the engine is pretty quick with only 12psi boost. I am almost sure it is above 220Bhp now .... hope to make it up till 300Bhp at 16psi!

Will post pics and vids on the dyno next up!

rob323

05-24-2011, 09:19 PM

Did the extra radiator help? And where are you measuring your water temps?

cali yaris

05-24-2011, 10:51 PM

My radiator runs full width, it's really too good, the car runs a little too cold when the ambient temps are under 80 degrees outside.

Bluevitz-rs

05-24-2011, 11:26 PM

time to move the battery to the back of the car. It'll help to offset some of the added weight and free up an additional 1 cubic foot of space for more stuff :headbang:

rob323

05-24-2011, 11:34 PM

. I was seeing 90C and over with the fan on.
The highest I've seen is 104 degrees C. Are you running an oil cooler Parmas? That should help the water temps a bit too.

Parmas

05-25-2011, 12:17 AM

Still not tried the setup yet cannot tell for now that the extra rad and fan how much they are better. The Water Temps are measured after the water outlet of the engine.

No I love the battery there and I really need to stop modifiying the engine cause I better put some cash on brakes and suspensions!

No oil cooler, the oil temps are about 60 - 70 C the max I seen. That is already good that way. Also I don't want to have pressure loss....

rob323

05-25-2011, 01:40 AM

Also I don't want to have pressure loss....
That's an urban myth and isn't a problem if it's done right.

I'm surprised at how low your oil temps are, especially if your water temps are high.

Yoda

05-25-2011, 03:57 PM

+1 on the suspension.

Parmas

05-25-2011, 04:36 PM

I'm surprised at how low your oil temps are, especially if your water temps are high.

I confirm the oil temps are seeing maximum of 65C Degrees under load.

Today I tried the engine on street and pushed it on gears above 6Krpm. I can notice a great benefit with the extra radiator and fan. The max temp seen 91C Degrees and cooled down quickly to 85C in just a minute of the fans on.

I need to fine tune the fuel map and Cam timing and then off to the dyno to check powerband and torque accross the rpm range. Cross Fingers! :headbang:

Yoda

05-25-2011, 05:55 PM

If you don't mind me asking how much did u sink in this thing already?

Parmas

05-26-2011, 10:38 AM

If you don't mind me asking how much did u sink in this thing already?

If you are referring to money ...well all I can say is that I spent much more than I expected but I have more than I thought aswell!

johnny_vitz

07-14-2011, 11:47 PM

Any updates, or dyno numbers?:biggrin:

Parmas

08-02-2011, 06:18 PM

Any updates, or dyno numbers?:biggrin:

Dyno is scheduled on 29 August and I hope some good numbers at the wheels.

I am a bit worried how much boost and revs I am going to give her because of the stock head so if any would give a heads up of a limit just post it here...

During the time I found a good deal on a set of D2 racing shocks. They are extremely sensitive on street and I can feel every little bump on the street (not comfortable at all) but at least rock solid on street corners.
Also I am having less wheelspin when giving her full throttle from a stop sign :biggrin:

Here is the update:

Blown_xa

08-02-2011, 08:33 PM

Dyno is scheduled on 29 August and I hope some good numbers at the wheels.

I am a bit worried how much boost and revs I am going to give her because of the stock head so if any would give a heads up of a limit just post it here...

During the time I found a good deal on a set of D2 racing shocks. They are extremely sensitive on street and I can feel every little bump on the street (not comfortable at all) but at least rock solid on street corners.
Also I am having less wheelspin when giving her full throttle from a stop sign :biggrin:

Here is the update:
Boost as much as your fuelling is good for! I have stock head and head bolts too. 7300 rpm has been just fine. I can vouch that the stock head can withstand past 8000rpm as I accidentally found out twice ( dropped it in 2nd instead of 4th on the dragstrip.. whoops ). I wouldn't set it at 8000rpm though lol. My factory tach won't read past 8000rpm so Im not too sure what it went too. Is It bad when the 1nzfe sounds like an F1 engine? jk.
Set it at 7300 if it still makes power.

I just looked at your picture few posts above... make sure your pipes are bead rolled or the dyno session may get pricey if they have to keep putting back blown off intercooler pipes. May be fine at the boost you're at now........

cali yaris

08-02-2011, 09:29 PM

I'm excited for you, looking forward to some great numbers!!

Bluevitz-rs

08-03-2011, 12:54 AM

Boost as much as your fuelling is good for! I have stock head and head bolts too. 7300 rpm has been just fine. I can vouch that the stock head can withstand past 8000rpm as I accidentally found out twice ( dropped it in 2nd instead of 4th on the dragstrip.. whoops ). I wouldn't set it at 8000rpm though lol. My factory tach won't read past 8000rpm so Im not too sure what it went too. Is It bad when the 1nzfe sounds like an F1 engine? jk.
Set it at 7300 if it still makes power.

I just looked at your picture few posts above... make sure your pipes are bead rolled or the dyno session may get pricey if they have to keep putting back blown off intercooler pipes. May be fine at the boost you're at now........

I can say for certain that the valve train won't keep up for long past 8000. I did the same thing once only I was on a road trip passing a couple gravel truck and somehow managed to pull it to second from the limiter in 3rd. Motor went to 8600 and sounded like someone through gravel inside the engine. 3 bent valves was the result. Luckily the motor kept running and I made it there >another 200km. The funniest part was that it didn't even set a misfire code or anything.

So wouldn't go past 7500 on the stock top end.

Parmas

08-03-2011, 08:11 AM

Thanks for the help guys but I really care about this motor and I prefer being safe than having a wrecked motor for just a few more rpm.

I am thinking of let it run from 6500rpm till 7000rpm and see if it will keep making power and torque on the stock head.

I am thinking of boosting till 16psi for now and see how it goes after trying it on the drag strip.

The main issue in this country is fuel octane since you don't get constant octane from the station. I will be using the Lucas octane booster to tune and keep giving her every refuelling to be safe.

The other issue is tire traction and wheel spin from a stop. The tires are Toyo R888 rally semi-slick tires but still having wheelspin above certain rpm launches. I am trying to set a launch control switch to help with this issue.

Parmas

08-29-2011, 01:35 PM

Today was the dyno day and we succesfully managed to get 210WHP @ 6800rpm and 184 torque at 5000rpm on the wheels with only 10psi of boost. We had some trouble with the AEM tru boost controller which wasn't increasing boost as it should be. I am sure that with 14 psi we could have managed 250WHP with stock cams / head internals.

The car was tried on street and got wheel spin issues till 3rd-4th gear. Now I need some serious rubber and I am thinking of a an AVON/Mickey Thompson slicks. I don't know if the drive shafts will hold the load on the drag strip so any feedback from boosted yaris owners with slicks are likely appreciated! Also what rim + tire size should I use to combine it with the C160 6spd 4.5:1 transmission?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jCzU3sU53w

cali yaris

08-29-2011, 01:54 PM

cali yaris

08-29-2011, 01:54 PM

managed to get 210WHP @ 6800rpm

What did the curve look like up top?

Parmas

08-29-2011, 02:37 PM

First of all CONGRATS on reaching this landmark! I know the project has been a challenge but your persistence is paying off!

You should be able to burnout and launch in 2nd gear for best drag results. Does your management allow you to program a 2-step?

I'll go check what wheels/tires I am running for drag racing, I think they work really well.

Thanks garm I really appreciate your feedback.

Yes the ecu is capable of a 2 step launch control and there is actually a switch installed on the handbrake to enable it when I want to. This was never tried since it was installed recently so I am not sure which are the correct ignition retard timing and enrichment settings for a good launch on the strip.

I would probably try your advice of 2nd gear and begin with launch control from 5000rpm -20 Degrees ignition till I get it right.

Next friday I booked for a Japs nightout drag strip so I am trying to get an average quarter mile time.

cali yaris

08-29-2011, 03:01 PM

my two-step is programmed to flood the exhaust mani and build boost for launch at 16 psi. I don't think we changed the timing just for that.

I launch at 5500, but 5000 will probably be fine too. The slicks change things a LOT, you can launch much harder. I'm still getting used to that. :frown:

Parmas

08-29-2011, 03:41 PM

What did the curve look like up top?

The curve inreases gradually until reaching 6800rpm. Above that range there wasn't any gain on power just a constant peak 211BHp till 7000rpm.

I should be able to get a curve printout for your reference.

What slicks brand are you using and rim size/profile/wide measurement?

Parmas

09-26-2011, 03:43 PM

I came across a friend which have a new race gate (external wastegate) for sale on a bargain price. He intended to put it into his own but scrapped the idea.

The race gate is 38mm and with an unknown spring pressure = unknown lowest boost pressure, BUT that is not a problem right now.

The problem is LIMITED SPACE to put it in mate to exhaust manifold and downpipe which is really a complicated thing to do....

This gate would cost me the price of its own + fabricating custom work + hassle of bumping into other fuel / oil / water / cable components so after all this I ask >>>

1 . IS IT WORTH THE HASSLE OF DOING THIS?

2. WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THIS GATE VS INTERNAL?

3. WOULD THE ENGINE BE AT ANY RISK OF BOOST SPIKES BY KEEPING THE INTERNAL WASTEGATE?

CHEERS