DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap

[Yoda]

drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm

[jkuchta]

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape.

The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance.

[tk-421]

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!
Yup... Happened to me too... Still haven't fixed it, but don't really have to either

[Yoda]

Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.

Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)?

Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in god shape.

yea i did use the o ring. Gonna try and dyno it on Monday cause i don't really notice a diff really
I an attempt to figure this out i sarted reading
http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/Engine%20Control.pdf
search 2103

[jkuchta]

Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.

[Yoda]

yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it

[Yoda]

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last

[t0m4s]

cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last
cel gone, oscillated gone and stock idle... and u havent touch the idle screw, right?

[jkuchta]

The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road.

If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back.

If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims).

PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!).

Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap.

[MGargano]

If you turn the idle set screw out about a turn and a half, all of your problems will go away.

So I should turn it all the way in, then back out 1.5 turns? If not, what's the 'correct' procedure for adjusting the idle screw?

[tk-421]

So I should turn it all the way in, then back out 1.5 turns? If not, what's the 'correct' procedure for adjusting the idle screw?


Turn engine off
Adjust the screw to your liking
Turn engine on and test for oscillation and high idle
If you need to modify the value, go to step 1
If you're satisfied with the setting, throw some epoxy in there and let dry (optional, but recommended)

FYI, I've read that it's better not to try adjusting the screw with the engine on, or else the ECU might need to be rebooted one last time to reset the values.

I had no idea which direction to turn to or anything like that... All I did was turn clockwise until I found the best setting after the second try. I guess I got lucky, because the damn screw got stripped at a very decent setting, so I didn't need to do any tweaking afterwards. :biggrin:

I also let the gasket maker do its thing for at least 4 hours IIRC, with the battery disconnected the whole time. I also did the coolant bypass, but didn't need to burp it afterwards.

No big oscillations, no CELs, and a pretty decent 2.5K idle... could've been a bit better, but I'm not complaining.

[Yoda]

I am gonna watch it over the week or so. My cold idle is 1.5k. and i didnt touch the screw. If it comes back the i will look into it but for right now its running great. I had to install the orignal TB back on to get the drill to drill out the rivets and forgot to reset the ecu when i replaced it with the 1zz. Then i drove it a bit not too hard. Then turned it off for 5 min or so. when i started it up again oscillation gone. Drove it again. Turned it off. Started up cel gone:iono:
Think my ECU went to college:biggrin:

[Yoda]

Turn engine off
Adjust the screw to your liking
Turn engine on and test for oscillation and high idle
If you need to modify the value, go to step 1
If you're satisfied with the setting, throw some epoxy in there and let dry (optional, but recommended)

FYI, I've read that it's better not to try adjusting the screw with the engine on, or else the ECU might need to be rebooted one last time to reset the values.

I had no idea which direction to turn to or anything like that... All I did was turn clockwise until I found the best setting after the second try. I guess I got lucky, because the damn screw got stripped at a very decent setting, so I didn't need to do any tweaking afterwards. :biggrin:

I also let the gasket maker do its thing for at least 4 hours IIRC, with the battery disconnected the whole time. I also did the coolant bypass, but didn't need to burp it afterwards.

No big oscillations, no CELs, and a pretty decent 2.5K idle... could've been a bit better, but I'm not complaining.

I thought you were suppose to do it while the engine is on. Look at it like a clock and turn buy 2 each time as you find the sweet spot(form 12 oclock to 2 or from 12 to 10 and so on) At each turn let the engine settle at the new position for 3 min if not the right idle turn it again. Not sure if its the same for our car tho.

[jkuchta]

Re-read post #78 in this thread.

If you adjust the idle screw while the car is running, then the ECU will compensate to run a preset idle speed, and you won't know if your adjustment worked or not.

[MGargano]

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?

[tk-421]

So after adjusting the idle screw I should be around 700-800rpm at warm idle? Will adjusting the screw have any effect on the high cold idle?
It will, but it will always end up higher than stock. I settled on a 2.5K cold idle, which isn't too much I think.

[jkuchta]

So I should turn it all the way in, then back out 1.5 turns? If not, what's the 'correct' procedure for adjusting the idle screw?

No...turn it 1.5 turns counter-clockwise from the stock Corolla position (where it is when you first get the epoxy off).

[jkuchta]

Just thought I'd repost this:


Hey everyone:

I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance!

First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though.

1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak.

2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation.

3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling.

4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration.

These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving.



On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal.

BIG DIFFERENCE!

1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down.

2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness.



Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm.

Note: The idle speed in the last 1500+ miles has settled down to 600-700 rpm, which I would attribute to ECU trimming.

Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much.



A note on setting the idle:

Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out).


Driving impressions:


1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB) above 2200 rpms.

2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts).

Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive!

As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right.




A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)!




Side note:

I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

[MGargano]

No...turn it 1.5 turns counter-clockwise from the stock Corolla position (where it is when you first get the epoxy off).

I got the epoxy off, but stripped the head of the screw trying to turn it. No matter which allen I tried, none seemed to fit correctly and I ended up rounding the edges of the hex off. Ideas for removal/replacement?

[jkuchta]

http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/view.2/app.detail/params.aol_refer.false.tpl.detail.msn_refer.false. item.V28297.ref.GBA?cm_ven=GOOGLEBASE&cm_cat=For%20the%20Home&cm_pla=Tools&cm_ite=V28297

I have a set of these, and they work pretty well. I got them at ACE Hardware.

[MGargano]

Thanks... will try that on my next day off.

[MGargano]

Now that the head is totally shot, should I replace the original screw with something else?

[jkuchta]

Yes...take it to ACE and get a standard metric allen socket head cap screw (I think it's an M3 diameter with .5mm thread pitch...but I'm not 100% sure). I think you'll want something about 40-50mm long.

[marcus]

remind people thats gonna do this to play around with that screw before to put it on!!

[eii]

And eii, if you want to go for a ride in a yaris with the 1zz tb install that was done correctly, PM me.

Oh I was just kidding, hehe :wink:. I based my install on the guide post you made earlier in this thread (thanks btw) so I'm sure I did it correct. I just get that < 1 minute 2.5k-ish cold idle start. Other than that it works great, I was just wondering what happened to demon. I just did the coolant bypass this morning, its more responsive and I definitely feel some more power. Cool stuff :thumbsup:

[jkuchta]

Right on!

[MGargano]

I finally adjusted the idle screw and haven't got thrown a CEL yet and the start-up oscillation appears to be gone, but now the engine does a weird thing at idle. The RPMs drop very low (around 400) and the car starts to shudder like it's gonna stall out, then the engine revs itself up to about 1,500 RPM for a second. It keeps doing this over and over until I finally turn the car off for fear it's gonna stall. It's even worse when I'm idling with the A/C on. Also getting some jerkiness in the pedal when it enters DFCO.

[jkuchta]

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

[MGargano]

turn the screw clockwise a half turn with the engine off. That should make it better. Also, if a half turn isnt enough, keep turning in half turn increments (with the engine off).

I gave up on the 1ZZ for the 2nd time. No matter how many turns I gave the idle screw, after a while the engine would settle back down to around 500 RPM, shake/shudder, rev up to 1,000 RPM, and then repeat the process until I either started moving or turned the car off in frustration. I hate all the problems I'm having since the performance of the the 1ZZ really is noticeably better than OEM, but I can't take the way it idles. I was also getting the heavy jerking whenever I took my foot off the gas.

[PETERPOOP]

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

[MGargano]

you might have gotten a bad throttle body. maybe you should order the one through cali yaris.

I don't think it's that, since the TB was working perfectly until I disconnected the battery. I wasn't getting any oscillation, jerking, weird idling, or CEL... then I pulled the battery cable and all these problems came out of the woodwork. I might try the swap again down the road sometime. Where can I get the Micro Image one? I don't see it listed on his website. Is it new or used/refurbished?

[jkuchta]

It's a 1zz TB, with the Yaris chip module already swapped on...also, we remove all of the epoxy on the idle set screw and make a preliminary adjustment to get you in the ballpark.

[PETERPOOP]

finally installed my 1zz tb after months of it sitting in my room. no CELS. warm idle at 2500rpms, then within seconds drops to 2k rpms, and then idles smoothly at a warm idle of 585 rpms. Didn't adjust the idle screw, and I didn't switch the chips; I think i've lucked out....

Drove the car after and ran it hard and conservatively, no problems! niceee

edit: Still running good. I don't really notice an increase in power? I remember looking at Yoda's dyno sheet that he did after he added the 1zz TB, and he got a gain of 3 whp. Unless I got less of a gain, I can't really feel 3 whp added to the existing. However, if the car keeps running with no problems for a couple of weeks, I plan on taking it to get dyno'd. Now that I have my 1zz injectors, I will be able to successfully do three pulls and hopefully hit 140whp now with the 1zz TB! :)

[blacksandiegovitz]

I got my TB yesterday & cleaned and polished it...I need to go get a coupler for the intake to TB, is it a 2.25" - 2.5" I need?

Anything else I need for the swap?

I'm thinking I'll just do the straight swap like PETERPOOP and see what I get before swapping chips...

Cheers

I just did this swap today and Its feels a lot stronger. I was able to make my aem coupler strech over the corolla tb .
you'll also need either 6 rivets and a rivet gun or 6 x small bolt and nuts for the "chip swap "

[jkuchta]

I used 6-32 allen head cap screws and jet nuts on mine. Makes for a realy clean job and the jet nuts are self-locking, so no worries about the screws coming loose.

[whooppee777]

where the hell did the diy go?

[PETERPOOP]

t-sport is at it again; deleting everything he posts. i wouldn't think he'd delete this!

[mikenacarato]

why did he do that?

[whooppee777]

ditto

[Kioshi]

why did he do that?

Wants to be the only one w/ the setup/s...or it backfired on him...or something else? :confused:

[jkuchta]

I've got close to 10,000 miles on my chipped 1ZZ TB, so I don't think it went bad on him.

[PatrickJohnson]

I'm hoping he just removed it because so many are having issues and not because he is being a pissant...

[whooppee777]

i just did a swap last night from the stock throttle position sensor to a scion tc throttle body. i havent put the throttle body on yet to see it worked though. my corolla throttle body didnt set any cels when i installed it as is

[PETERPOOP]

my 1zz throttle body that i put on without switching the chip or adjusting the idle screw and was running perfectly for the last two weeks has just turned gay on me. It started oscilating the other day, and i unplugged the battery, replugged it and it was fine. However, again it is now back to oscilating and i can't disturb it by tapping the gas to interupt it. my only hope now is to do a chip swap; but i don't think i want to.

[eii]

I'm hoping he just removed it because so many are having issues and not because he is being a pissant...

Na, he always does this. We're not sure why he does though.

my 1zz throttle body that i put on without switching the chip or adjusting the idle screw and was running perfectly for the last two weeks has just turned gay on me. It started oscilating the other day, and i unplugged the battery, replugged it and it was fine. However, again it is now back to oscilating and i can't disturb it by tapping the gas to interupt it. my only hope now is to do a chip swap; but i don't think i want to.

Why wouldnt you? I didnt even bother trying it with the stock 1zz chip since I heard almost everyone's problems being fixed by a swap. Swap it!

[blacksandiegovitz]

Why wouldnt you? I didnt even bother trying it with the stock 1zz chip since I heard almost everyone's problems being fixed by a swap. Swap it!

Just do the damn swap already Peter:thumbsup:

[jkuchta]

Also...adjust the idle set screw and the problem will go away.

[fuji]

I would have to agree Peter, I have been running the throttle body with the chip swap with no issues yet. Never had a cel

[whooppee777]

i swapped the chips from the stock tb to a Tc tb. set a CEL the first day and had oscillating revs and high revs on cold engine starts. after 4 days cel went away and rev issues fixed itself. chip swap ftw

[mick.wheelz]

since OP is a douchbag and removed his shit, I will post my experience with this....

IMO, the 1ZZ TB upgrade is one of the best bang-for-buck mods that us yaris owners can do... What else can you pay $50 for performance wise and actually feel a difference?

Anyway, onwards with the DIY.

NOTES:

From my expirence you MUST do the chip swap... don't be a lazy fuck, just do it! If you dont, it will idle like a pig and oscillate.

Also, the idle screw NEEDS to be adjusted, but be careful, if you cock it up and strip your idle screw like i did, you will need to drill it out and tap in a new one. (You don't want to have to do this.)

Steps;

1. You need to remove your 1NZ TB, its held on by 6x 10mm nuts, and 1x 10mm bolt, you will also need to disconnect the cable that goes into the chip, as well as the coolant lines (be sure to clamp these if you don't want to lose coolant. also, now is a good time to do a coolant bypass.)

side note: for the coolant bypass, all you need to do is take one of the stock coolant lines, disconnect the other at the engine and connect the remaining one on, creating a loop.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3301/4582403617_74228e17f6_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4583032870_6891464218_o.jpg

2. Remove the stock TB, you will note it does not have a gasket. there is an o-ring in the plenum that it seals against.

3. Here are some comparison pictures of the 1ZZ and 1NZ TB's

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4582403327_f965b233d1_o.jpg
1ZZ

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4582403353_851b7a1c41_o.jpg
1NZ

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4583033018_9d289af8b5_o.jpg
Side by Side

4. Take your stock TB and drill out the rivets, also do this with your 1ZZ TB.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4582403419_88c085ac5c_o.jpg

5. Pull the 'chip' off the stock TB and attach it to the 1ZZ TB.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4583033076_45f5e2d422_o.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4582403473_85125388a4_o.jpg

6. Get some small bolts to hold the new TB chip to the TB

7. Remove the glue from the idle screw and make sure you can adjust it before fitting it to the car.

8. Put the TB back in the same way it came out.

9. Reconnect all hoses and fittings. If you are still using the stock hose/airbox you can simply turn it around (be sure to use some grease to get it to fit on the new TB flange/airbox... you will also need a new PCV hose as the old one will now be too short.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4582403563_1d8139767f_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4582403653_a390de4284_o.jpg

10. If you have not done already, pull the negative off the battery and reset the ecu (just stand on the brake pedal for 30-60sec)

11. Wind the idle down a tad (wind the screw out) and try and start the car, it will fast idle quite high and settle down, ones it has, fiddle with the idle until its back to factory (or close)

12. You are done. The car may oscillate a tad at first and the idle might require re-adjustment, but after 100kms or so, it should be right.

Hopefully this helps :)

[tk-421]

Thanks for posting this info again. :thumbsup:

What's the best way to replace a stripped idle screw? It was pretty worn when I bought the TB, and I ended up stripping it completely after a while. I don't think I can drill it (without hurting the TB) since it's pretty much level with the enclosure already.

I'm pretty much used to the high startup idle @ ~2.5K, but it goes down after 20 seconds or so. Not a huge deal, but I might fix it just to make it perfect.

As far as the bang-for-buck comment, I agree this mod is one of the best candidates out there for the Yaris.

[mick.wheelz]

Thanks for posting this info again. :thumbsup:

What's the best way to replace a stripped idle screw? It was pretty worn when I bought the TB, and I ended up stripping it completely after a while. I don't think I can drill it (without hurting the TB) since it's pretty much level with the enclosure already.

I'm pretty much used to the high startup idle @ ~2.5K, but it goes down after 20 seconds or so. Not a huge deal, but I might fix it just to make it perfect.

As far as the bang-for-buck comment, I agree this mod is one of the best candidates out there for the Yaris.

All I did was get a big ass drill bit (~10mm) from memory, and drill the whole screw/etc out and tap a new thread.

edit: a pic

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4582647147_af151a5a94_o.jpg

You can see the bolt used here. Once i got it right i putt a little glue down it to set it in place.

[tk-421]

Thanks!

I'll probably rethread the sucker once I get the TB spacer installed in the next week or so.

[marcus]

hmmmm...tb...part#

[Astroman]

If you can find a TB with #22030-0D030. I didn't have to do a darn thing. :biggrin:

[suckerface]

If you can find a TB with #22030-0D030. I didn't have to do a darn thing. :biggrin:

Do you happen to have the info of the car it came off of? (year, model, etc)

edit: nvm, found answer in other thread (05 corolla, right?)

[marcus]

can anyone confirm if this tb will work.. 1zz-fe part# 0d110

http://www.khengine.com/servlet/the-14/22210-dsh-0D110-Throttle-Body-03/Detail

[Astroman]

Sorry that TB won't work for your Yaris, you need one thats DBW (05+).

Yup, mine is from a '05 Corolla. :smile:

[bobolinko]

My Motor is a 2ZR-FE

Is there anyone with knowledge about a TB Swap For My Motor ?
I'd be really interested to find any information to that end!

Thank you guys!

[weapon5]

sorry a bit confuse where is the chip?

[Yaris_That]

2006 Yaris Hb RS 4 door 5speed.
So I did the tb swap yesterday. What a difference it has made. I drove 200km last night with no noticeable problems, just when I shift the rpms hold for about a 1/2 second and on cold start engine will start at 3000rpm then 20sec later it goes to 2000rpm and once fully warmed up idles at 557rmp. NO check engine light. During installation battery negative side was disconnected. I did not do the chip swap yet, I did not do coolant bypass because here in Canada Ottawa it's cold. To be able to hook up coolant lines I had the lengthen ONE of the two coolant lines. The one that goes to the right side of engine. I did adjust the idle screw 1 1/2 counter clockwise and then an other 45 degrees counter clockwise. As for the TB I made my own gasket that is fitted around the ends of the TB I did keep the stock o-ring/seal in place. As for the chip swap I will wait a bit, don't really see a need to swap it yet. I do plan on installing an inline catch can with filter due to the increased air flow. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

[tk-421]

Nicely done! Extra points on the DIY gasket. :thumbsup:
I'm thinking the chip swap is not necessary, although it may depend on the TB serial number... Still, I wouldn't touch it if there's no CEL

[Yaris_That]

Nicely done! Extra points on the DIY gasket. :thumbsup:
I'm thinking the chip swap is not necessary, although it may depend on the TB serial number... Still, I wouldn't touch it if there's no CEL

Only thing I'm wondering is, will it solve that 1/2 second rmp hold when shifting. As for the 3000rpm at cold start doesn't bother me at all.

[Yaris_That]

As for the people who are having problems with the idle set screw, this is the hardest part of the TB swap in my opinion. Getting the screw to turn, Position the TB on a vise DON'T tighten the vise to much or you might crack the TB hosing. I chiseled away as much of the epoxy as I could using an assorted set of precision flat head mini screwdrivers and mini hammer. Try to get as deep as you can into the taper at the base of the screw, After that I covered the ends of the TB and sand blasted the idle screw area. Then I got a T10 torx bit and hammered it into the head of the screw until seated to the bottom of the head, making my own thread pattern that is a way tighter fit and less likely to strip when trying to remove with intended Allen key. I tried with Allen key and was starting to strip. Also the hammering action helps to free up the threads by cracking away any remaining epoxy stuck in the threads. I would NOT recommend this but I also applied a bit of heat to the screw using a small flame torch.
In the end I wanted to be as careful as possible not to damage the idle screw for I did not want to have to tap and die in a new idle screw and possibly cause an other problem.

[tk-421]

Only thing I'm wondering is, will it solve that 1/2 second rmp hold when shifting. As for the 3000rpm at cold start doesn't bother me at all.
It most likely will not. You might want to look into getting a throttle controller (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23314) to tweak that to your heart's content. :thumbsup:

[Yaris_That]

It most likely will not. You might want to look into getting a throttle controller (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23314) to tweak that to your heart's content. :thumbsup:

Really, never thought of getting one. I noticed that your using the NTD Throttle Controller, has it helped with that problem?

[tk-421]

I've been using it for months and it's great. The throttle lag is almost completely eliminated now.

[fase4]

My yaris is 1st gen so my TB is drive by wire and not chip, besides the 1zz TB it's linkless tipe so I doubt this mod will work for me... Any idea of what I can do?

[tk-421]

Well, DBW does have the advantage of having no lag at all, so I can't think of anything as far as the 1st gen throttle body is concerned... Something like an upgraded intake should yield slightly better throttle response, however.

[fase4]

So this mod its not suitable for me? I think the 1zz TB is better for having a larger diameter but there is more concept here?

[Goosecreekjoey]

Way cool

[ikenty]

I know that I am late to the party but I just did mines.

2008 Toyota Vitz RS
JDM 1NZFE with Rocker Arms & EGR
Ported intake to match throttle body.
1ZZ Throttle body part no: 22030-0D031

I haven't done the chip swap as yet but I bought three throttle bodies to experiment so if needs be I will swap the chip using my spare 1nz throttle body and one of the other 1zz throttle bodies.

First start was 4500rpm dropping back down to 2000rpm so I drove it away so as not to wake the neighbors. After it got warm the idle was oscillating between 1000rpm and 2000rpm then it dropped to 800rpm idle.

After the first spirited drive about 50 kms the car idles at 800rpm. No CEL thus far.

I have a blitz throttle controller and the list of vehicles which it fits have 1nz, 1zz, 1az, 2az, 2zr, 3zr.

The 2zr and 3zr throttle are options for 1nz throttle upgrade aswell.