DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap

[Yaris T-Sport]

.

[eTiMaGo]

wow excellent idea! :thumbsup:

[tk-421]

Awesome info! Thanks

[WolfWings]

This bit of info let me dredge up something that might explain why earlier folks had fewer issues with the throttle-body swap.

Some Corolla's came with throttle bodies with ID #22041 on the chip housing. Others have that problematic chip-housing with ID #0D031. What'cha wanna bet the #22041 chip is special in some way? :-)

[yarstar]

DUDE YOU ROCK!!!

Thank you for solving this issue for us. I can now finally install mine without a CEL coming on.

Does this also solve the high rpm when cold problem?

This is great. I am so stoked to get this on the car. It truly makes a difference that can be felt.

:bow:

:headbang:

[tk-421]

Do I need to drill through the bolts in order to crack open the TBs? Is there a better/safer way to accomplish this?
Also, what is the best way to trim the intake tube to fit the new diameter?

[AlexNet0]

I believe they are riveted, so you will most likely have to drill them out. or be really careful prying them out


Edit, nevermind, he beat me to it.

[yarstar]

Cool. I'll take the high rpm at cold idle if we can get rid of the CEL.

Thanks again T-Sport. This made my day.

[AlexNet0]

mind if i make this a pdf for sticky posting if the mods want it?

[Arkhangel]

ok so bigger TB means more air coming in? What is the performance gain with it?
Good? i have stock intake with K&N Drop in filter, do i need to change my intake?

[mikenacarato]

can anyone confirm after driving over 100 miles that no cel comes on?

BTW this thread is awesome! thanks for doing this!

[gwasabi]

no CEL over 100 MPH

[LtNoogie]

Good work on figuring this out. Where did you get a 1zz tb? At a junkyard?

[PETERPOOP]

this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-THROTTLE-BODY-COROLLA-MATRIX-1ZZFE-05-06-07-FUEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQitemZ310114345300QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPar tsQ5fAccessories

http://i3.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/29/68/731b_1.JPG

[FunctionSpec]

I've had my 1ZZ TB on for over 20K miles and never had a CEL or oscillation of any kind.

You probably got a defective junkyard TB and swapping out that casing fixed whatever problems you were having with it before.

[eTiMaGo]

that's another possibility, but it would be interesting if you could look at the model number on yours, to test WolfWings' theory!

[yarstar]

this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-THROTTLE-BODY-COROLLA-MATRIX-1ZZFE-05-06-07-FUEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQitemZ310114345300QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPar tsQ5fAccessories

http://i3.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/29/68/731b_1.JPG

That is it. I bought it from this guy here in Georgia. Really straight up guy and the price was way lower than what I found elsewhere. They get all there parts used off of totaled cars. Back in January when I got mine, he said he had 4 more.

[mikenacarato]

no CEL over 100 MPH

lol i didnt mean 100mph, i meant 100 miles of driving

[BLAZINBLUEVITZ]

This bit of info let me dredge up something that might explain why earlier folks had fewer issues with the throttle-body swap.

Some Corolla's came with throttle bodies with ID #22041 on the chip housing. Others have that problematic chip-housing with ID #0D031. What'cha wanna bet the #22041 chip is special in some way? :-)

ID#22041 is for vehicles with vin number starting with a LETTER (jap built)
ID# 0D031 is for vehicles with vin starting with a number (american built)

im guessing our cars do not like TB"s from american built cars.....

[mikenacarato]

on both cars the throttle bodies came from japan. there is no american built TB on either car. the chassis may be built here in the us but the parts may not be. i opened up my corolla tb and my yaris tb and both are made by denso japan.

[Yaris T-Sport]

car is running great with the new tb set up, no cels what so ever at this point

[BLAZINBLUEVITZ]

on both cars the throttle bodies came from japan. there is no american built TB on either car. the chassis may be built here in the us but the parts may not be. i opened up my corolla tb and my yaris tb and both are made by denso japan.

REALLY, toyota parts catalog lists 2 different TB's for corolla/matrix based on vin numbers. my findings were already posted.......

[LtNoogie]

Where do you see your gains? Low end? Top end?

[mikenacarato]

ok so you found 2 part numbers..good job. my yaris throttle body pn is different than the 08s, was my car made in the usa? i dont think so. denso japan is made in japan.

[BLAZINBLUEVITZ]

ok so you found 2 part numbers..good job. my yaris throttle body pn is different than the 08s, was my car made in the usa? i dont think so. denso japan is made in japan.

:laugh: im sorry MR KNOW IT ALL. i guess you can't comprehend what i wrote and i refuse to explain it to you. unsubscribed......

[FunctionSpec]

#22030-0D030

Mine must be uber special ;)

[mikenacarato]

please feel free to explain it to me, ill listen. you said american made throttle body. the throttle body on that car is not made in america. the chassis and body panels are, but electrical and most engine components are still made in japan. go look at the sticker on a new camry or corolla and it says the percentages and what was made where. if they dont have that sticker on it, then ask them and they will go get it

[tk-421]

Where do you see your gains? Low end? Top end?
Gains are reported to be in the mid- to high-end of the spectrum. I still have to install it to see for myself.

[whooppee777]

wait wait wait.

people with the 1zz tb were getting cel's? i never got one. i did get some oscilation but only in temperatures below freezing.

could u swap the chips from the yaris 1nz to a scion tc tb? because i noticed a greater gain in power and response using the tc TB except i got thee CEL from it.

[yarstar]

Whooppee - you just got lucky. The rest of us had major CELs issues. Mine came on no matter what I did.

The gains seen with mine was major pickup mid to high end. The car really jumped @ 40 mph and continued excelerating from that point on, much stronger than stock.

Drilling out these rivets is a pain, but I'm working on it. I see you also used a allen key bolt so you keep the bolthead size to a minimum. There's one spot of the six that is super close fitting for an 'other than rivet' attachment.

[whooppee777]

i'd rather b lucky than good.

im thinking about taking apart my tc throttle body. it sounds like something is loose inside of it. could something b broken inside of it? the 1nz throttle body sounds solid when u shake it, no noises or feelings of movement from the inside

[Gideon]

Well, I'll see if I have any CELs when I receive my TB next week. Won't bother with the chip swap at first and see what happens.

[yarstar]

Okay. I just performed this excellent DIY with my 2 TBs. Everything looks, feels and sounds awesome. I'll report back if I get a CEL or not. This is an excellent mod for the money.

:w00t:

[hatchbackkid82]

how much do these go for and where can i get one from

[yarstar]

how much do these go for and where can i get one from

See post #19, this thread.

[hatchbackkid82]

Thanks just bought one from the same guy

[FunctionSpec]

So what is the point of this DIY thread? To fix your broken junkyard 1ZZ TB? Why not return it and get another one?

[yarstar]

The mod is to replace the OEM throttle body off the 1.5L engine with a TB from a 1.8L. The 1ZZFE TB (1.8L) give you alot more air flow. The benefit is definitely felt in the mid to upper acceleration range. The car basically has alot more torque.

The problems with this mod have been numerous. The engine ocillates for some time once the new TB is installed. A high (3000rpm) idle is seen at cold starts. Usually within a few miles of travel, the Check Engine Light comes on (CEL). The ocillation problems seems to fix itself as the ECU learns the new TB, but the high cold idle and CEL issue remains. By changing out the chip, we are seeking to solve these issues.

[PETERPOOP]

But the chip changing won't change the high idle when the car starts.

[yarstar]

You are correct Peter.

Since the re-install, the high cold idle seems to be significantly shortened. It now only idles high for @ 2 minutes. It then goes down to a regular idle once the cold light is off (its currently 50-60F here). That may be due to the current temp and nothing to do with the TB.

On the other problem, I got a CEL again today. I don't know why. I followed this DIY to the letter. At this point, I'm gonna live with it. I took my car over the mountain today (very curvy roads), and couldn't BELIEVE how much torque the car has! I nearly lost it more than once. I think this mod really works well with a header. My car drives and sounds like a roadster now, not an econobox. I don't think any damage is being done with the CEL. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd appreciate the input. Can a car get too much air?

[PETERPOOP]

I will definately be doing this in the near future.

[yarstar]

I will definately be doing this in the near future.

You will not regret it.

[Nexus1155]

I'm also interested in this let me know what that cel was from please ill probably go junkyard hunting this week to see if they have any or grab one off ebay, hopefully that cel is from something completely different! Autozone and etc do free obdii checks! Ill post up again when I get back from vegas

[hatchbackkid82]

Yeah but it gets rid of the check engine lights

[mikenacarato]

no it doesnt. myself and someone else above still have lights, mine has come and gone 3 times since the chip swap.

[lilredrocket]

What is the code that comes up?

[mikenacarato]

idle control. same as it was with the original chip.

[Lafiro]

What do you mean, you almost lost it?
How could this one mod change the HP/Torque so much? Well to add more to this, there is no proof like dyno numbers.

Hmm it does seem like a good idea, like changing this out and getting a SRI or CAI?

[mikenacarato]

you dont almost lose a CEL. its either a code or its not. once a car goes through a driving cycle (50-100 miles, many starts and stops, etc...) it will reset the system making the light go off. if it is really a fixed problem it stays off, if it doesnt get fixed it comes back on. the code does not get fully erased from the computer unless its completely fixed. so while the light was going off for me, the code is still active in the bank and is not fixed and will not pass emissions as long as it is stored in the bank.

[PETERPOOP]

With that sad, do you regret putting it on?

[mikenacarato]

nah, i know i can just swap TBs a week before emissions and it will be fine.

[eTiMaGo]

for those who have the Idling Control CEL (P0505), a question:

Have you tried to reset the ECU? (by disconnecting the battery for a little while or removing the appropriate fuse). I am looking through the repair manuals about this specific trouble code, it happens when the idle speed does not match to the learned air intake volume. i.e. this bigger throttle is letting in more air at idle, more than the ECU remembers from the original throttle, thus it throws a code.

So, letting the car idle for a long time when it is warmed up is one way to "re-learn" the idle airflow, or resetting the ECU is potentially risky but should be faster.

On the other hand, the high warmup idle, I'm not sure anything can be done about that, but in itself it should not be throwing any malfunction codes.

For reference:

DESCRIPTION
The idling speed is controlled by the ETCS (Electronic Throttle Control System). The ETCS is comprised of:
1) the one valve type throttle body;
2) the throttle actuator, which operates the throttle valve;
3) the Throttle Position (TP) sensor, which detects the opening angle of the throttle valve;
4) the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor, which detects the accelerator pedal position; and
5) the ECM, which controls the ETCS. Based on the target idling speed, the ECM controls the throttle actuator to provide the proper throttle valve opening angle.

MONITOR DESCRIPTION
The ECM monitors the idling speed and idling air flow volume to conduct Idle Speed Control (ISC). The ECM determines that the ISC system is malfunctioning if the following conditions apply:
• The learned idling air flow volume remains at the maximum or minimum volume 5 times or more during a drive cycle.
• After driving at 6.25 mph (10 km/h) or more, the actual engine idling speed varies from the target idling speed by between 100 rpm and 200 rpm, 5 times or more during a drive cycle.

Example:
If the actual idling speed varies from the target idling speed by more than 200 rpm* 5 times during a drive cycle, the ECM illuminates the MIL and sets the DTC.
HINT:
*: Threshold idling speed varies with engine load.


Just a theory, really, but worth trying!

[FunctionSpec]

I bet whoever is getting CELs are running the same CAI system. The upgraded TB probably disrupted the balance of being more free-flowing and not throwing CEL for specific CAI systems.

What kind of CAI are you guys running?

[mikenacarato]

Ive let me car idle for a very long time and i have also reset the ecu by doing the battery thing as well.

i am running a trd intake

[yarstar]

AEM CAI.

[PETERPOOP]

Can T-Sport chime in and confirm he still has no CELs after the swap?

[Yaris T-Sport]

yes, I don't have any cel at this point since the swap, I'm thinking maybe the different intake tube/pipe? I'm using the OEM one.

[yarstar]

That could be it. I've got a CEL and I have a Cold Air Intake.

[Nexus1155]

does anyone that uses a CAI have the stock one to toss back on to try it out? T-Sport is the bottom of your stock intake gutted? or is it completely stock?

[Lafiro]

Can anyone dyno their car to prove what this TB swap really does.

So far no asnwer to this question, and it just seems like everyone is jumping on something that just makes the engine rev qierdly and pull "harder" but ok.

[Nexus1155]

well i mean its an easy concept, larger mm throttle body = more air. to get the most out of it you either need a tune or be FI.

[mikenacarato]

well i have put almost 100 miles on it since my last post, the light has been gone the whole time. maybe it had to relearn after the chip swap...idk, but its gone. if it does not come on during my drive to work today then the problem is solved.

[Lafiro]

well i have put almost 100 miles on it since my last post, the light has been gone the whole time. maybe it had to relearn after the chip swap...idk, but its gone. if it does not come on during my drive to work today then the problem is solved.

And how much faster is your car now honestly? I would really like to know.
I do know the larger TB makes a big difference on some cars, and this is why Im making it such a big deal to learn what a difference this makes to the Yaris.
Thanks.

[Yaris T-Sport]

does anyone that uses a CAI have the stock one to toss back on to try it out? T-Sport is the bottom of your stock intake gutted? or is it completely stock?

I'm running with Blitz SUS POWER Air Intake with the OEM intake tube

[Jerkratt]

would the TRD CAI fit over the TB opening or would i have to "Lip" it?

[dallas]

How much bigger is the new throttle body opening than the intake it bolts to, as the intake side may become the restrictor? From the picture it looks like it has a step so you can't really port match it to the new throttle body.

[Yaris T-Sport]

would the TRD CAI fit over the TB opening or would i have to "Lip" it?

I'm very sure you can, the other memeber has an TRD intake and he has been running with the new tb.

How much bigger is the new throttle body opening than the intake it bolts to, as the intake side may become the restrictor? From the picture it looks like it has a step so you can't really port match it to the new throttle body.

the pic of the my OEM tube has already been ported .25" bigger

1nz = 2"

1zz = 2.25"

just a report back it's been 11 days since ,my chip swap, cold start idle is around 2000 RPM instead of 3000 before, drops down to around 1000 in a couple of mins, when the car is fully warmed up, it idles at 750 RPM, no CEL the whole time, very happy with the extra mid-nigh end gain, can definitely feel the difference by my butt dyno even off the line, much better mod than an intake or exhaust if you can find one cheap, perhaps I couldn't even feel a difference when I upgraded my intake nor exhaust alone by my but dyno expect the increase of engine noise, but this one, I surely CAN.

[YarisSedan]

How much bigger is the new throttle body opening than the intake it bolts to, as the intake side may become the restrictor? From the picture it looks like it has a step so you can't really port match it to the new throttle body.


I am thinking the same thing. :iono:

[AlexNet0]

would the TRD CAI fit over the TB opening or would i have to "Lip" it?

you need a flared silicone rubber adapter

[hatchbackkid82]

Doing this today, wish me luck:biggrin: Hopefully i won't get any CEL. :burnrubber:

[hatchbackkid82]

I have the AFE intake. Mine just went right over the TB, of course it took a lil muscle but it's on there, snug fit didn't even have to tight the clamp too much.

would the TRD CAI fit over the TB opening or would i have to "Lip" it?

[tk-421]

I have the AFE intake. Mine just went right over the TB, of course it took a lil muscle but it's on there, snug fit didn't even have to tight the clamp too much.
I was not able to do this at all with the OEM hose + Simota SRI. Did you get the hose wet in order to make it more flexible?

[Saggio]

I'm thinking of buying one of these... for those of you that have installed one, in your opinion is this a good worth while mod?

TIA

[Gideon]

The TB was $60 off of fleabay for me, and I think it was money decently spent.

I have not done the chip swap on mine, and I also just rerouted the cooling hoses to connect together and not through the TB. (Reason being I had it on before checking the angles the hose inlets and outlets and didn't feel like removing the TB and move them into the right area to connect.)

My favorite part to be honest is the higher idle. Previously my car would sit at 640ish (or so sayeth my Defi HUD) and now it's more like 900, which is a bit higher than I would like, but it makes the car more forgiving when leaving a stop.

I DO have the CEL if you're wondering, it appeared and then disappeared after 50 miles after installation and then reappeared like 200 miles ago, so whatever. Oscillation occurs at start up occasionally, but goes away in a minute along with the high idle. (~2300 is what it sits at when the cool light is on)

Butt dyno says no major increase in acceleration or power at lower RPMs, but near redline in 2nd and at WOT in 3rd the change in power is noticeable.

I can't imagine it doesn't give you an increase in power as it's been stated by other members that the ECU only allows the TB to open 80% at WOT. So with this larger TB you'd see an increase at least at WOT I would think.

Also here's a comparison of the stock TB and the 1ZZ TB I took before installation:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w49/jinxca/img080.jpg

[Saggio]

Thanks Gideon! I think I'll be getting one and trying this out.

[yarstar]

I strongly recommend this Saggio. I really have felt a difference with this mod. I have taken the TB back off and installed the original (trying to fix the CEL) and couldn't stand the power loss so I re-installed the 1.8L TB. CEL comes and goes, but who cares.

[blacksandiegovitz]

I strongly recommend this Saggio. I really have felt a difference with this mod. I have taken the TB back off and installed the original (trying to fix the CEL) and couldn't stand the power loss so I re-installed the 1.8L TB. CEL comes and goes, but who cares.

I had planned on picking one of those tb up this weekend from the same ebay guy , and your statement just made me 100% on getting one :thumbup:

[yarstar]

Just like Gideon, I even like the high rev cold idle. My car sounds like it has a turbine engine when it fires up. The idle goes down once the cold light goes off. High idle only for about a minute.

[blacksandiegovitz]

Just like Gideon, I even like the high rev cold idle. My car sounds like it has a turbine engine when it fires up. The idle goes down once the cold light goes off. High idle only for about a minute.

Before the yaris , I owned nothing but beastly dsm's and mk3 turbos so i'm use to loud cars with rough idle . Imo the yaris was wayyyyy to quite when I first got it . I'm sporting aem w/fujita filter , megan header, nitto mid, hks axle back , nst 10% ud pulley running on 91 and i'm very surprised at how "peppy" this little 1.5 yaris has become . Modds planned are the Tb swap , coolent bypass , tb spacer (for S's and G's and I'm gonna do before and after dyno test for proof good/bad) and my friend is starting on a 1-off long tube header for me(similar to Richard's design)

[jkuchta]

Hey everyone:

I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance!

First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though.

1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak.

2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation.

3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling.

4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration.

These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving.



On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal.

BIG DIFFERENCE!

1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down.

2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness.



Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm.

Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much.



A note on setting the idle:

Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out).


Driving impressions:


1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB:smile:) above 2200 rpms.

2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts).

Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive!

As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part:wink:), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right.




A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)!:bow:




Side note:

I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.

[blacksandiegovitz]

Hey everyone:

I did this swap this last Sunday...and man what a differeance!

First off I installed the 1ZZ TB stock (no idle screw adjustment or chip swap). Cold idle was high (around 3K) and fluctuated, like everyone has mentioned, though my warm idle was around 850-900rpm, with a pretty bitchin' roughness (think bigger cam). There were definate problems though.

1) CEL: came on intermittantly with P0171 (iirc) lean condition, especially while transitioning from idle to part throttle, though once cleared, this CEL would not come back while driving or coming back to a stop, which makes me want to rule out any sort of air leak.

2) Throttle response was lacking, and pretty disconnected..i.e. while shifting the engine would over-rev 500-1000rpm, and the car seemed to lack any real grunt anywhere in the powerband. I have a scangauge, and could see I was getting full throttle operation.

3) When the car went into DFCO it would feel like I had just released the 'chuts! With the OEM TB DFCO is almost inperceptable, but with the unadjusted 1ZZ TB it was pretty uncomfortable feeling.

4) Heel-toe downshifting was pretty much impossible as well due to lack of fine rev control, and a wierd over-rev/under-rev (the car stalled itself twice) on deceleration.

These symptoms were consistant over more than 3 hours of driving.



On Monday afternoon, I removed the 1ZZ TB and swapped out the chip with the OEM 1NZ chip. I did this without disconnecting the battery, as I wanted to see how big a difference this swap would make, all other things being equal.

BIG DIFFERENCE!

1) High Cold idle lasts about half as long. Also, there is no ocillation. The rpms just go straight to 2500-2700, and then slowly taper back down.

2) The idle is also much more stable (like stock), with no (albeit cool) roughness.



Now I got to work setting the correct idle speed. For some reason, the epoxy over the idle set screw on my 1ZZ TB came off nice and easy, an in one piece. After a few minutes idleing, the engine settled to about 1K rpm, which set off a CEL (I think P0220 iirc(TB stuck open)). I adjusted the screw to the point of killing the engine (which triggered another CEL (P0505...bad idle)). I then screwed the idle set screw back in about half way, which when the engine was turned back on, gave me an idle of about 850 rpm. I then shut the engine back off and adjusted the screw back out about a turn, which (when the engine was turned back on) gave me a nice stable (and smooth) 720-750rpm.

Based on the manual, this is as high as you can go without running the risk of getting a "bad idle" CEL. This idle rpm also makes leaving stoplights a little better in that the engine doesn't bog quite as much.



A note on setting the idle:

Adjustments should be made with the engine and ignition off, as doing the adjustment with the engine running will only cause the ECU to compensate to maintain the idle speed, almost regardless of the idle set screw position (took me 10 min. to figure that out).


Driving impressions:


1) Throttle response is better than stock, and the car pulls like a motha' (well....way more than with the stock TB:smile:) above 2200 rpms.

2) Heel-toe downshifting is better than stock (rpms come up a little faster, and with a little more "control" (i.e. a little tap gives a few hundred rpm (great for the 5th-4th shift), and a bigger dab gives about 1000 rpm (great for 4th-3rd, and 3rd-2nd shifts).

Once the idle was set there have been no CELs of any kind, and the car is a riot to drive!

As far as I'm concerned...this is a must-do mod for anyone with the stomach to do the chip swap (drilling out that first rivet is mentally the hard part:wink:), though the idle adjustment is pretty much a requirment to make this thing feel right.




A big THANK YOU to T-sport for the diy (and having the nuts to do this in the first place)!:bow:




Side note:

I also did the TB coolent bypass. My other mods are as follows : Simota Carbon SRI (the big box), WR header, Thermal axle-back, and nology hotwires, running Shell V-Power and Motul 300V 5W-30.


^^^ Very good write up , now i'm really ready to do this modd ! What did you need for the Tb coolent bypass? Just checking so I can buy the right parts the first time .

[jkuchta]

Double barb 3/4" union (Home depot). I reused the OEM hose clamps (they are in pretty much A1 shape).





Kustom, I got the TB from TheBarber, but eBay is also a good source.

[Nexus1155]

jkuchta that was a sick review, how many miles have you put on the TB since the chip swap? If its not many i might want to wait a bit to grab one. But it seems like its spot on!

[blacksandiegovitz]

Double barb 3/4" union (Home depot). I reused the OEM hose clamps (they are in pretty much A1 shape).





Kustom, I got the TB from TheBarber, but eBay is also a good source.

Thanks man:thumbsup: I bought mk3 supra parts from the ebay seller in the link in post #19 and he was legit , I plan on getting the tb from him too .

[dallas]

Great write up Bravo, if you live in a cold climate don't do the coolant bypass, in the winter it will ice, great mod for summer as it reduces intake temps.

[hatchbackkid82]

Ok so looks like i'm part of the CEL club. Installed it w/o a hitch except for the brass fittinh i had to buy, didn't want to bypass the coolant line through th TB. Started the car up, and had the high idle for about a min. or so. Oscillated for a few seconds before it finally started to taper off and idle normal, slightly higher idle than stock. Drove the car around, has great midrange and top end. After driving it for about 2-3mins i got a CEL:thumbdown:. Disconnected the battery for a few mins CEL was off again after a few miles came right back on. I've swapped the chip over from the 1NZ TB. I hate CEL:thumbdown: Good mod for the money just hate seeing that CEL light on. Also the car does feel like when shifting it's holding on to the revs, instead of the rpm's dropping it feels like it revs at whatever rpm you were at before you shifted. And when coasting in gear maybe it's just me but it seems real jerky at time. It will hit a certain rpm where it does that

[hatchbackkid82]

No water or anything. Just used my guns:biggrin:. But really yhtough the coupler on the AFE intake is flexible a lot more than the oem tube

I was not able to do this at all with the OEM hose + Simota SRI. Did you get the hose wet in order to make it more flexible?

[hatchbackkid82]

Anyone know how to get that expoxy off to adjust the idle control?

[Nexus1155]

i dont think anything makes epoxy soluble, the only way to do it is either burn it off, or pick it out

[Saggio]

Freeze Spray or pick it out.

http://www.psl-equip.com/userfiles/E1022.JPG

[jkuchta]

The only experiance I have is with the Corolla TB, so that's the only one that I can say for sure fits.

Dallas,

The TB can't ice up, as there is no fuel passing through the TB. To get normal intake air to ice up you'd need to run it through a really small venturi to get the pressure low enough.


Hatchbackkid, do you know what the DTC associated with the CEL is? Sounds like you have an air leak. Don't forget that the silicone sealent has to sit for a few hours to harden enough to resist the vacuum at idle.

[dallas]

I thought that is the only reason why they run hot coolant lines into the TB, in our cold climate if you bypass it you will have issues around zero, with rought running etc everyone around here calls it icing, do you know whats actually happening! I agree for ulimate performance you don't want it hot as a cooler air is more dense,

The only experiance I have is with the Corolla TB, so that's the only one that I can say for sure fits.

Dallas,

The TB can't ice up, as there is no fuel passing through the TB. To get normal intake air to ice up you'd need to run it through a really small venturi to get the pressure low enough.


Hatchbackkid, do you know what the DTC associated with the CEL is? Sounds like you have an air leak. Don't forget that the silicone sealent has to sit for a few hours to harden enough to resist the vacuum at idle.

[jkuchta]

As far as I can tell, the TB is heated to give better fuel economy. Why a cold charge would cause those problems is beyond me.

I've flown injected piston aircraft is sub-zero conditions and they just seem to run stronger!

[jkuchta]

Hey Nexus the TB has been on for 260 miles, and no problems, and the improvement is still there!

[Saggio]

Hey Nexus the TB has been on for 260 miles, and no problems, and the improvement is still there!

Is your TB still heated?

[AlexNet0]

it would make sense around here because it gets very cold (0 or lower) consistantly in the winter, and on the off day it will be cool and very damp. so cool and damp, temp drops, condenses on butterfly flange, engine cools down, butterfly freezes. makes sense to me for this area at least

[jkuchta]

Saggio, my TB is not heated.


Alex, it would have to be REALLY cold and VERY humid for ice to form in the TB. When a carb freezes up it is caused by the fact that fuel requires energy to vaporize...thus when fuel vaporizes it super cools the air it's in, thus causing the water vapor in the air to turn to ice. Because there is no fuel passing through the TB on our cars, there is no way the air can become supercooled enough to form ice.

The cold weather problems people are running into with unheated TB's may be caused by there being too little heat in a less-than-fully-warmed-up engine to fully vaporize the fuel in the intake port of the cylinder head, causing rough running (caused maybe by the resultant lean condition, or an over-rich ECU compensation).

This is just a theory of mine, and may not be totally correct, but I think its at least a pretty good guess:wink:

[AlexNet0]

yours makes sense, it was just what seemed logical to me

..Because there is no fuel passing through the TB on our cars, there is no way the air can become supercooled enough to form ice.

welllll, maybe I should not bypass anyway, lol, because a future mod planned WILL supercool the intake air

[MGargano]

Will this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-THROTTLE-BODY-COROLLA-MATRIX-1ZZFE-05-06-07-FUEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQhashZitem310128305343QQitemZ310128305343QQptZMot orsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories work with the '09 3-door HB? I'm planning to do the DIY listed in this thread, but I want to make sure this is the correct TB first.

[Gideon]

Yup, that's the one. Great seller too, bought mine from them.

[MGargano]

Yup, that's the one. Great seller too, bought mine from them.

Thanks, Gideon. So, if I'm reading this thread correctly, all I need is the 1ZZ-FE TB and the chip from my stock TB? Anything else needed to get everything working? I'm not looking to do the coolant bypass or anything.

[MGargano]

For those of you who did the coolant bypass, did you plug the tubes on the TB or just leave them open?

[mikenacarato]

i actually pulled the tubes out with some pliers for a cleaner look and polished it up. so yes they are open.

[marcus]

WOULD THIS WORK FOR CANADIAN TB 1.5,...well im assuming it will.i may try this out...

[AlexNet0]

WOULD THIS WORK FOR CANADIAN TB 1.5,...well im assuming it will.i may try this out... as long as the stock is a 1nz-fe engine

[marcus]

aight..i guess i got a new project to do...

[MGargano]

i actually pulled the tubes out with some pliers for a cleaner look and polished it up. so yes they are open.

I capped mine. Think that's gonna make any difference?

[AlexNet0]

^no, not unless you also capped the hoses.

[MGargano]

^no, not unless you also capped the hoses.

lol no I used one of those barb couplers. I finally broke down and did the chip swap and coolant bypass. I have the gasket maker setting overnight and look forward to testing it out tomorrow morning.

[tk-421]

lol no I used one of those barb couplers. I finally broke down and did the chip swap and coolant bypass. I have the gasket maker setting overnight and look forward to testing it out tomorrow morning.
Good luck! Hope that gets that problem solved on your end. :thumbsup:
I'm also considering capping the (now useless) tubes... What did you use for that?

[MGargano]

Good luck! Hope that gets that problem solved on your end. :thumbsup:
I'm also considering capping the (now useless) tubes... What did you use for that?

Just a few inches of rubber tubing with a little brass plug on the end. I found the plug's at Lowe's in the same section as the barb union coupler.

[t0m4s]

did everybody trim the OEM TB gasket to allow more air flow as t-sport did?

[marcus]

[QUOTE=jkuchta;275971]As far as I can tell, the TB is heated to give better fuel economy. Why a cold charge would cause those problems is beyond me.

im assuming the high rev on cold start is due to oil being cool has to warm up ..

[MGargano]

No good so far. Oscillation is way worse at cold start up than before the chip swap and I got a CEL within 10 minutes of driving :(

[marcus]

No good so far. Oscillation is way worse at cold start up than before the chip swap and I got a CEL within 10 minutes of driving :(

darn it!!

[AlexNet0]

im assuming the high rev on cold start is due to oil being cool has to warm up ..its due to the open loop during warm up, a preset throttle position untill its warm and then it uses the sensors and activly adjusts it. the opening is 30 percent larger so the preset is automatically that much higher

[tk-421]

its due to the closed loop during warm up, a preset throttle position untill its warm and then it uses the sensors and activly adjusts it. the opening is 30 percent larger so the preset is automatically that much higher
Do you think that will have an impact on engine life and/or MPG in the end? I really like this mod, but I may not keep it if it's doing any damage...

[jkuchta]

I'm still getting 37-38mpg per tank with the 1ZZ TB...and I've had it on for nearly 1000 miles so far.

[AlexNet0]

I think you meant open loop during warm up.:thumbup:

lol yup *duh*

[MGargano]

Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I'm putting the stock TB back on tomorrow. I can handle the CEL but the oscillation is a little scary. After the chip swap, it oscillates very heavily from 2k to 3k for almost 2 minutes.

[Yaris T-Sport.]

Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I'm putting the stock TB back on tomorrow. I can handle the CEL but the oscillation is a little scary. After the chip swap, it oscillates very heavily from 2k to 3k for almost 2 minutes.

do this, put the stock TB back and drive it for over a week with out doing and or trying anything at all and then swap the chip back to 1zz and try it again, this helps your ecu to remember the normal setup, then give it a fresh try after that. it worked for me.

[yarstar]

I concur with T-Sport. Giving it a 2nd try made it work for me too.

35-38 mpg now for 3k miles with new TB. No issues at all, except high cold idle. I really think it's worth it.

[MGargano]

I love the performance of the 1ZZ but the harsh oscillation is a killer. So I should reinstall the stock TB & chip for a week or so and then start over with the 1ZZ and chip swap?

[yarstar]

I love the performance of the 1ZZ but the harsh oscillation is a killer. So I should reinstall the stock TB & chip for a week or so and then start over with the 1ZZ and chip swap?

That worked for me. You may be getting ocillation due to an air leak. Make sure you did the gasket maker correctly and really let it set up a long time (I let mine set up overnight). Check also the intake for leaks.

I pulled mine back off, waited a week, did the chip swap again, and re-installed and have had no probs since.

[MGargano]

That worked for me. You may be getting oscillation due to an air leak. Make sure you did the gasket maker correctly and really let it set up a long time (I let mine set up overnight). Check also the intake for leaks.

I pulled mine back off, waited a week, did the chip swap again, and re-installed and have had no probs since.

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

[mikenacarato]

i just want to stress a point again. anyone who just did this mod you have to drive it for a good 2 days or so for the ecu to learn the now tb. it will oscillate bad until then.

[MGargano]

i just want to stress a point again. anyone who just did this mod you have to drive it for a good 2 days or so for the ecu to learn the now tb. it will oscillate bad until then.

Oh I was under the impression that the chip swap made the oscillation and CEL go away immediately. Think I should leave it on for a few days?

[marcus]

i guess time will tell

[jkuchta]

Yes....I would leave it on and see what happens.

[MGargano]

That worked for me. You may be getting ocillation due to an air leak. Make sure you did the gasket maker correctly and really let it set up a long time (I let mine set up overnight). Check also the intake for leaks.

I pulled mine back off, waited a week, did the chip swap again, and re-installed and have had no probs since.

Did you get CEL and oscillation the first time you did the chip swap?

[mikenacarato]

i did after the chip swap for a day or so. give it some time.

[MGargano]

i did after the chip swap for a day or so. give it some time.

I'm gonna leave the stock one on for a week or so and then start over with the chip swap. Glad to hear I wasn't the only one having this problem.

[mikenacarato]

:) mine still cold idles high for a min but it goes down to normal after that

[severous01]

ok.......

here's the deal....again...for you who will listen now

you can stop the oscillation in less than ten minutes.


after the swap, pull the plug on the battery, drain caps by hitting brakes and turning on lights

plug in batt

start car AND LET IDLE FOR 10 MINUTES

you have to re-learn the iac sensor to the new throttle body...it is oscilating to learn the position of the iac motor....unless you have a vac leak somewhere.

[MGargano]

ok.......

here's the deal....again...for you who will listen now

you can stop the oscillation in less than ten minutes.


after the swap, pull the plug on the battery, drain caps by hitting brakes and turning on lights

plug in batt

start car AND LET IDLE FOR 10 MINUTES

you have to re-learn the iac sensor to the new throttle body...it is oscilating to learn the position of the iac motor....unless you have a vac leak somewhere.

Yeah I did that... didn't help at all. I disconnected and drained the battery before I even removed the TB.

[bxrich]

quick ? guys what's the diameter on the 1zz tb is it 2" & half or 3"

[yarstar]

Mine's on the car, so I can't really measure it right now.

Do a search. It's on here. I think in the Performance Mod section. There's a picture of both TBs and the exact measurement of each.

[bxrich]

Mine's on the car, so I can't really measure it right now.

Do a search. It's on here. I think in the Performance Mod section. There's a picture of both TBs and the exact measurement of each.

will do thanks

[marcus]

been 2 days anyone got rid of the issue..

[jkuchta]

I never had the issue.

I think you have an air leak somewhere in the system. Best bet is to pull the TB, and reapply the sealer and let it sit overnight to set up.

[MGargano]

been 2 days anyone got rid of the issue..

Reinstalled the 1ZZ w/ chip swap this morning with gasket sealer and coolant bypass but didn't disconnect the battery so we'll see if anything changes later today.

[marcus]

well................anyone.

[MGargano]

Good so far. Got oscillation on the first & second cold start but so far I'm 2 days oscillation free. I got a CEL today but took care of it with the Scangauge. I'm just glad the oscillation's gone.

[PHXDEMON]

Can't wait to get my TB in the mail :bow:

[MGargano]

my CEL kicked off today so we'll see how long that lasts for

Mine came on this morning too... got minor oscillation at cold start this morning also but nothing major.

[marcus]

bump for update...

[jkuchta]

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

[BLAZINBLUEVITZ]

9 PAGES and i still see a CEL.......

[MGargano]

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

P0505- Idle Malfunction. No, I haven't adjusted the idle screw.

[jkuchta]

^

That's why you get a CEL. You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL, as it's a result of the ECU having to over-adjust to hit a target idle RPM. Re-read thread #78, and you will more than likely get rid of the CEL for good.

[mikenacarato]

no you dont. i didnt touch my idle screw, its still covered in the hard crap. all i did was the chip swap, nothing else.

[eii]

Cool thanks for the diy.

I got my 1zz tb from crxgames. I removed the rivets, swapped the chips, screwed them on, and added some rvt gasket maker. Plugged in the new 1zz tb with the 1nz chip and started her up. This was after I had disconnected the battery for an hour. So it started to oscilate from 2-3k like many others have mentioned. I waited for exactly 10 minutes and it ended up idling at around the same rpms as the stock tb. Drove around a bit and no cel. I didnt mess with the idle screw cause the idle was just fine. I had to run some errands and every time I started up my car no problems or cel. I have yet to start my car during a cold start up so I'll chime back in here with results. The ecu hasnt learned the changes completely yet, my auto keeps shifting too early still. I can tell theres gonna be a ton of power over 3k. I'm not sure thought, but i think i'm feeling a lot of increase in low end...@_@

Getting some headers worked on right now, should compliment the TB very well.

[jkuchta]

Mike, Mgargano's specific CEL is more than likely caused by the idle screw not being adjusted.

[cali yaris]

You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL

right -- read the whole sentence above, it's to get rid of a CEL. If you didn't get a CEL, you don't have to adjust it.

[eii]

quick ? guys what's the diameter on the 1zz tb is it 2" & half or 3"

stock yaris 1nz tb is 2"
1zz tb is 2.5"

[t0m4s]

stock yaris 1nz tb is 2"
1zz tb is 2.5"

i think 1nz tb is 2.25"
no?

[marcus]

bumpin..

[eii]

i think 1nz tb is 2.25"
no?

Pic of my 1nz tb now a paper weight on my desk <3

http://www.inimi.org/images/1nzfetb.jpg

[PHXDEMON]

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.


http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m218/PHXDEMON/img1241578910054.jpg

[mikenacarato]

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

[MGargano]

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

I have my 1ZZ installed with an AFE intake also. I bolted the TB to the intake manifold first, then slid the coupler onto the TB as far as it would go, right up to the studs. I couldn't fit a hose clamp on there either, but I've driven it about 1,000 miles with no problems. The coupler is wedged in between the intake and TB pretty tightly, so I don't think you'll have any problems with it moving/leaking. I know others are using the same TB & intake with no hose clamp, so I think you'll be fine

[MGargano]

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

I tried to use a hose clamp when I did the install the first time. It stayed on for bit, but once the engine got hot, the clamp popped right off. The neck of the TB isn't long enough to clear the studs & fit a hose clamp.

[Yaris T-Sport.]

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

[MGargano]

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

[Yaris T-Sport.]

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

maybe use a few zip ties?

[MGargano]

maybe use a few zip ties?

lol that thought actually occurred to me as I was typing my previous post. Like I said, I haven't had any problems not having the clamp, but if I do I'll use a strong zip tie

[PHXDEMON]

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

[mikenacarato]

get 3 more bolts like the one lower left bolt and replace the 3 studs.

[PHXDEMON]

Just finished the install and holy fucking oscillation :cry: form 1000-3000 rpm from a cold start. I tried driving around a little bit and it started jumping up to 4k on idle :frown: and a CEL. How long does it typically take for the oscillation to start smoothing out? It's too late here (9:15) to mess around with it more. Don't want to piss off the neighbors. Any suggestions?

[MGargano]

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

[PHXDEMON]

I am doing to leave the battery disconnected overnight incase 2 hours wasnt enough.

[PHXDEMON]

It took about 2 days or so for the oscillation & CEL to finally go away

Did the oscillation slowly smoothe out or did it just stop out of nowhere? How much driving did you do in 2 days?

[MGargano]

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

[PHXDEMON]

I got oscillation at cold idle as well as intermittent CEL for the first two days, then both just went away completely. All I get now is the high (3,000 RPM) cold idle and better performance. I only did local driving during those first few days, no highway or any heavy pushing.

Damn I was still gettingm oscillation and my motor was getting pretty warm. Is there an an idiot light that turns on if it starts overheating?

[PHXDEMON]

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation :bow: Hopefully it stays that way. I didn't want to even take it around the block because I have had about half a beer and their are mad cops out for cinco de mayo. Hopefully I will have a nice drive to work tomorrow :burnrubber:

[MGargano]

WTF I just hooked the battery back up and started it up again and my idle was perfect with no oscillation

Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.

[yarstar]

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

No clamp for months now on mine and no problems.

[PHXDEMON]

Don't be surprised if the oscillation comes and goes for the first couple days. This happened to me and I thought everything was fine, then I got oscillation on the next cold start. Just be patient and give it a few days to work itself out.

Yeah it came back :frown:

[eii]

Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling.

[PHXDEMON]

Just out of curiousity, are you guys doing the coolant bypass? I was considering doing so unless this changes the way it idles. The 3k cold starts for 1 minute is all I want as far as weird reving goes. Dont want the bypass to screw with my fine idling.

I did do the coolant bypass. Drive to work today was great :burnrubber: . I actually don't experience the high cold idle everyone else is. My cold idle is around 2k RPM just like stock. I did hower buy my TB from M911gt on here so he may have fine tuned the idle screw. I think if anything doing the coolant bypass will make it idle better :iono:

[eii]

I did do the coolant bypass. Drive to work today was great :burnrubber: . I actually don't experience the high cold idle everyone else is. My cold idle is around 2k RPM just like stock. I did hower buy my TB from M911gt on here so he may have fine tuned the idle screw. I think if anything doing the coolant bypass will make it idle better :iono:

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

[MGargano]

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

I plugged the tubes on the TB, but I've heard others have left them as-is. And yes, you just have to use a barb union to join the two hoses together.

[PHXDEMON]

Just to clarify things, the coolant by pass i just just hooking up together the two coolant hoses that connect to the TB, right? You dont do anything to the little metal thingies on the TB the hoses were connected to? Just leave them be?

Correct others have plugged them I just left them as is. Just go down to a lowes/home depot/etc and get a coupler barb for 3/8 inch ID vinyl tubing and you are food to roll. Stock clamps work and everything just need the barb.

[eii]

Cool thanks guys. I'll probably stop by lowes once my paycheck arrives, hazzah!

Also, I'm using the simotoa carbon charger CAI. Buy a 2.5" silicone coupler at your local auto parts store and that should work perfectly.

[hatchbackkid82]

So judging by the 186 post, no one has figured this out yet. I had this on my car and could not figure out how to turn the CEL off. I just came to the conclusion that just b/c a part fits on my car doesn't mean it belongs on there. I think there are only a handful of members that have done this mod sucessfully(i.e. No oscillation, no CEL)

[marcus]

hey guys would the 1zz-fe from toyota matrix works as well???

[AlexNet0]

^ same one as the corolla

[jkuchta]

Kustom...what is the CEL code?

[PHXDEMON]

I am still getting oscillation like a motherfucker (1-4k RPM) but no CEL. Hey kustom I'll trade you my oscillation for your CEL. I pulled up next to a STI yesterday and looked like some faggot ricer revving my engine. I am debating just throwing my stock exhaust back on so it isn't as obvious that my engine is revving.

[marcus]

I am still getting oscillation like a motherfucker (1-4k RPM) but no CEL. Hey kustom I'll trade you my oscillation for your CEL. I pulled up next to a STI yesterday and looked like some faggot ricer revving my engine. I am debating just throwing my stock exhaust back on so it isn't as obvious that my engine is revving.

lolz.. this thing can get you in trouble..imagine lining up with a copper on a stop light...

[PHXDEMON]

lolz.. this thing can get you in trouble..imagine lining up with a copper on a stop light...

I started killing my engine at stop lights :laugh: I bled the coolant today and it didn't make a difference. It seriously seems like the oscillating is getting worse and it is pissing me off. I am going to make one final attempt to reseal/remount the TB and let it set for 24 hours while the battery is disconnected and if it is still giving me crap after a couple days I'm just pulling this fucker off. Also I tried the whole rev the engine up to 5k for 3 minutes thing but after 2 minutes my engine started backfiring so I stopped.

[Gideon]

Maybe you have a bad TB or the idle screw was messed with too much? (I didn't bother touching mine.)

I never did the chip swap on mine (too lazy). Coolant bypass (didn't bother to bleed it) and only have high idle when cold and of course my CEL is always on. (For about 700 miles now)

Mine does stick a bit it seems, RPMs hang for a few when slowing quickly to a stop (usually to go over speedbumps).

No oscillation, except when I first installed it. That was fun trying to avoid looking like a douchebag revving at every light. (For the 100 miles I had that issue I would just put the car into gear quickly to bring the car's RPMs down to normal and then release.)

[tk-421]

Mine does stick a bit it seems, RPMs hang for a few when slowing quickly to a stop (usually to go over speedbumps).
Yup I get the stuck throttle at times as well. Cold idle too, but no CEL yet.

[PHXDEMON]

Maybe you have a bad TB or the idle screw was messed with too much? (I didn't bother touching mine.)

I never did the chip swap on mine (too lazy). Coolant bypass (didn't bother to bleed it) and only have high idle when cold and of course my CEL is always on. (For about 700 miles now)

Mine does stick a bit it seems, RPMs hang for a few when slowing quickly to a stop (usually to go over speedbumps).

No oscillation, except when I first installed it. That was fun trying to avoid looking like a douchebag revving at every light. (For the 100 miles I had that issue I would just put the car into gear quickly to bring the car's RPMs down to normal and then release.)


:iono: I bought the TB off of m911gt who was selling it because of the same issue. I did the chip swap on it so that rules out a bad chip. Fucking with the idle screw is the only thing I have yet to do because I don't see why that would cause anything other than a too high/too low idle. Plus after I installed it I drove to work and back (50 mile round trip) and it ran flawlessly other than hanging to RPMs a little bit but it sure as hell wasnt oscillating. Also this entire time I have yet to actually get a check engine light :confused: You would tend to think with the motor ranging from 1-3/4k rpm it would throw a code. I think my ECU is just being a stuck up whore :mad:

[PHXDEMON]

Also Gideon did yours oscillate right off the start? Did it come and go? Or was it just oscillation constant for first 100 miles and then it went away? How hard did you drive it for thos efirst 100?

[PHXDEMON]

Possibly you guys running with CELs are in open loop vs closed loop and that's why you aren't getting oscillation :iono:

[Gideon]

Also Gideon did yours oscillate right off the start? Did it come and go? Or was it just oscillation constant for first 100 miles and then it went away? How hard did you drive it for thos efirst 100?

Yeah, it oscillated every time I let the engine go back to idle initially and it was for only 20 miles or so. In that 20 miles I ran it to redline every chance I could. (After the engine was properly warmed up of course)

[PHXDEMON]

Yeah, it oscillated every time I let the engine go back to idle initially and it was for only 20 miles or so. In that 20 miles I ran it to redline every chance I could. (After the engine was properly warmed up of course)

So I need to start driving like a ricer :burnrubber: Also was it really jerky every time you applied/let off the gas? Like on the freeway I hit the gas but it steadily accelerates so I have to let off and every time I take my foot off/put it back on the gass it jerks like a motherfucker.

[Gideon]

Yeah it was pretty jerky initially.

It still is really jerky if the engine is cold, but once it warms up it ceases.

[PHXDEMON]

Yeah it was pretty jerky initially.

It still is really jerky if the engine is cold, but once it warms up it ceases.

Mine keeps getting worse and worse. Jerky as fuck even when the sngine is warm and the oscillation is progressively getting worse. :frown:

[PHXDEMON]

okay so the idle screw was all the way in and I backed it up as far as I could. Let the car idle for about 10 minutes and slowly the idle smoothed out completely :bow: While driving I am still getting some jerkyness and moderate oscillation (1-2k) at stop lights but nowhere near as bad as it was. It seems the ECU is actually trying to learn the new throttle body now instead of just being a whore about it. Hopefully it will smoothe itself out some more as I drive it more.

[marcus]

hope that fixes ur issue..

[PHXDEMON]

hope that fixes ur issue..

Oh believe me so do I :laugh: Hell I can even live with how it is now it's just that pegging from 1-4k nasty oscillation was horrible. The car was almost undrivable :thumbdown:

[eii]

Correct others have plugged them I just left them as is. Just go down to a lowes/home depot/etc and get a coupler barb for 3/8 inch ID vinyl tubing and you are food to roll. Stock clamps work and everything just need the barb.

FYI, I'm always food to roll..always.

[PHXDEMON]

FYI, I'm always food to roll..always.

:laugh::laugh::laugh: Did you do the bypass?

[PHXDEMON]

Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL :thumbdown:

[AlexNet0]

Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL :thumbdown:

that must mean its working! :bellyroll:

[marcus]

Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL :thumbdown:

nice.. so ur saying it idles the same as stock and no oscillations.. what about start up how high does it warm up to..

no wwe jsut need to kill the cel ..

[jkuchta]

What code is the CEL associated with?

Also, for the people that are still having problems with the swap:

Are you guys using the stock Yaris gasket (the black O-ring with the "tail" and the partial mesh screen) with the 1ZZ TB?

If not...you should use at least the "tail" portion. The slot that the "tail" fits in on the intake manifold offers a totally open channel through which air will get in and cause idle speed "hunting" and CEL's. The channel is large enough to suck in any partially set gasket maker and give you problems such as rough idle and CEL's.

When I did the install I cut off the "tail" from the gasket and installed it in the channel in the intake manifold with gasket maker. Once set, the "tail" creates a nice solid plug for that channel, and I haven't had a single CEL since I made the chip swap....not ONE!

[marcus]

wow no oscillation and no cel ...

[RagnaCaT]

After 12 pages I feel I should do this....

[jkuchta]

wow no oscillation and no cel ...

Yep...read post #78 in this thread!

[PHXDEMON]

Well the CEL finally disappeared and it ran great for about a mile. and then this :cry:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m218/PHXDEMON/img1242287749925.jpg

Fuck this throttle body. Put the stocker back on and it is running great.

[eii]

Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat? Please explain what happened. I'm scared, I'm scared for my life now.

[jkuchta]

So what went wrong? Do you know what the CEL code was?

Please tell me step-by-step how you installed the 1zz TB so we can figure out what went wrong. I've been running mine without fault for a few months now...there's got to be something simple that can be fixed and will clear up the whole problem.

And eii, if you want to go for a ride in a yaris with the 1zz tb install that was done correctly, PM me.

[PHXDEMON]

So what went wrong? Do you know what the CEL code was?

Please tell me step-by-step how you installed the 1zz TB so we can figure out what went wrong. I've been running mine without fault for a few months now...there's got to be something simple that can be fixed and will clear up the whole problem.

And eii, if you want to go for a ride in a yaris with the 1zz tb install that was done correctly, PM me.

CEL was gone. Car completely died and wouldn't even idle. Start it up and it woul ddie instantly. I used the original gasket plus gasket maker, I did the coolant bypass, I did the chip swap. I did everything it just didn't work out for me :frown:

[Yaris T-Sport.]

CEL was gone. Car completely died and wouldn't even idle. Start it up and it woul ddie instantly. I used the original gasket plus gasket maker, I did the coolant bypass, I did the chip swap. I did everything it just didn't work out for me :frown:

That could be pretty much the 1ZZ T/B itself being the problem, try another different 1ZZ T/B or try the 2AZ-FE 2.4L T/B.

remember! failing is the beginning of success, it wasn't easy for me either

[jkuchta]

Bummer...

Do you know what the code for the CEL you were getting was? It may provide some clues as to what caused your problem.

[bieniman]

Guys,
I've been following this mod for a while now,

If I'm correct the newer yaris models have electronically controlled TB. Well, I looked under my hood and see sort of like a cable running from the pedal to the TB, I can rev my engine by turning this swivel.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShNr73fDI/AAAAAAAAAVE/9hvyHvfnn2w/s800/IMG_0157.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShRJaot6I/AAAAAAAAAVI/Uuok8vVEeBA/s800/IMG_0157-1.jpg

[bieniman]

O yeah forgot to ask.

Can I do this mod also to my , Vitz Rs 2001?????

[enviri]

dude! i was about to put it on! now im gonna have second thoughts or get garm's! jeez...i think there HAS to be something we're missing...a hidden variable thats affecting some of us...

Well the CEL finally disappeared and it ran great for about a mile. and then this :cry:

Fuck this throttle body. Put the stocker back on and it is running great.

[AlexNet0]

Guys,
I've been following this mod for a while now,

If I'm correct the newer yaris models have electronically controlled TB. Well, I looked under my hood and see sort of like a cable running from the pedal to the TB, I can rev my engine by turning this swivel.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShNr73fDI/AAAAAAAAAVE/9hvyHvfnn2w/s800/IMG_0157.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShRJaot6I/AAAAAAAAAVI/Uuok8vVEeBA/s800/IMG_0157-1.jpg

Yes, this mod only applies to the Drive by wire system that is in the ( i believe) '05 and newer

[AlexNet0]

CEL was gone. Car completely died and wouldn't even idle. Start it up and it woul ddie instantly. I used the original gasket plus gasket maker, I did the coolant bypass, I did the chip swap. I did everything it just didn't work out for me :frown:

doesnt sound like the TB unless a wire snapped somewhere.

[PHXDEMON]

doesnt sound like the TB unless a wire snapped somewhere.

Stocker works flawless though so it isn't a wiring issue.

[PHXDEMON]

Guys,
I've been following this mod for a while now,

If I'm correct the newer yaris models have electronically controlled TB. Well, I looked under my hood and see sort of like a cable running from the pedal to the TB, I can rev my engine by turning this swivel.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShNr73fDI/AAAAAAAAAVE/9hvyHvfnn2w/s800/IMG_0157.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gbctpNc6cs0/ShShRJaot6I/AAAAAAAAAVI/Uuok8vVEeBA/s800/IMG_0157-1.jpg

I'm not 100% positive on this but the scion xa/xb owners have done a swap with an older 1zz throttle body which is drive by cable like yours. check the forums @ scionlife.com you should be able to dig up more info.

[MGargano]

The chip swap was working fine for me... no CEL or oscillation... until I had to disconnect the battery to swap the steering wheel. Once I reconnected, oscillation & CELs galore.

[jkuchta]

What codes are showing up?

Just saying you have a CEL is kind of worthless unless we know what the code is. It could be just a case of needing to adjust the idle set screw, or a number of other things.

[MGargano]

What codes are showing up?

Just saying you have a CEL is kind of worthless unless we know what the code is. It could be just a case of needing to adjust the idle set screw, or a number of other things.

P0505- Idle Malfunction

[jkuchta]

Have you adjusted the idle screw? If you've turned the screw out too far you could get this code...try turning the screw in one or two turns (with the car off). This should fix the problem.

If you haven't adjusted the idle set screw, turn it counter-clockwise 1.5 turns (with the engine off), and see what happens.

[MGargano]

Have you adjusted the idle screw? If you've turned the screw out too far you could get this code...try turning the screw in one or two turns (with the car off). This should fix the problem.

If you haven't adjusted the idle set screw, turn it counter-clockwise 1.5 turns (with the engine off), and see what happens.

I haven't touched the idle screw at all. The thing was working perfectly for over a month, right up until I disconnected the battery. I'm not going through this every time I disconnect the battery... plus, even when it's working perfectly, the high idle is now quite loud with the exhaust I have. I'm 99% I'm switching back to the stocker today.

[Yoda]

any one has a DYI on how to install the TB? I am looking through tha manuall and drawing a blank. Do i need anything special?

[jkuchta]

I haven't touched the idle screw at all. The thing was working perfectly for over a month, right up until I disconnected the battery. I'm not going through this every time I disconnect the battery... plus, even when it's working perfectly, the high idle is now quite loud with the exhaust I have. I'm 99% I'm switching back to the stocker today.

If you turn the idle set screw out about a turn and a half, all of your problems will go away.

When you leave the screw is the "corolla" position, the yaris ECU adjusts the idle fuel to get a stable idle. This takes time, as the ECU needs to make some pretty big changes. When you adjust the idle set screw to the correct position, the ECU doesn't have to work nearly as hard to get a normal idle, so the ECU doesn't freak out.

The idle rpm fluctuations are a result of the ECU hunting for the right fueling to maintain a steady 600-700 rpm idle in the face of way too much air going through an unadjusted corolla TB.

The P0505 code is the ECU saying..."WTF!!...Why can't I idle at the fuel trims I'm programmed with...something must be wrong!!"

[AlexNet0]

any one has a DYI on how to install the TB? I am looking through tha manuall and drawing a blank. Do i need anything special?

If you search, you will find it. there have been like 3

[Yoda]

If you search, you will find it. there have been like 3

thx it wasnt too hard so i didnt need the diy. Didnt do the chip swap gonna see what other means there are to eliminate the cel if i get any.:rolleyes:

[jkuchta]

thx it wasnt too hard so i didnt need the diy. Didnt do the chip swap gonna see what other means there are to eliminate the cel if i get any.:rolleyes:

If you adjust the idle set screw you might be ok.

[AlexNet0]

thx it wasnt too hard so i didnt need the diy. Didnt do the chip swap gonna see what other means there are to eliminate the cel if i get any.:rolleyes:

Did you get the oscillation? thats what the chip swap was originally indended to fix

[Yoda]

If you adjust the idle set screw you might be ok.

adjust it to were? sry total noob at this. dont even kno where the darn thing is:iono:

[marcus]

adjust it to were? sry total noob at this. dont even kno where the darn thing is:iono:

ok sorry its this one like he said.

[Yoda]

there

clockwise? anticlockwise? how much of a turn?
o and is it an actual screw cause there is none...

[tk-421]

there
That's not the idle screw. It's this one (covered in epoxy here):
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb182/bionic_seahorse/P1010183.jpg

You'll need a small allen wrench to turn it BTW. As far as CW/CCW, I can't remember... I believe I ended up turning it CW almost all the way.

[Yoda]

That's not the idle screw. It's this one (covered in epoxy here):
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb182/bionic_seahorse/P1010183.jpg

You'll need a small allen wrench to turn it BTW. As far as CW/CCW, I can't remember... I believe I ended up turning it CW almost all the way.

ok kwel i will try it as is now then adjust later the rain lifted up sp let me finish installing it. It was hard as heck to get the afe coupler over the TB had to shave some off.:frown:

[Yoda]

so yea i installed it right. i was doing the whole coolant overflow thing and well it didnt. I waited for like 5 min and no overflow so i was like ok. No oscillation just high cold and when its warm it setlles at a high of 1100rpm and a CEL:iono: Againg i said ok. Before i went to disconnect the battery i tried stepping on the throttle. This event was followed bu very very very slow climb in rpm. Again ok... So i floored it:rolleyes: Not a good idea didnt make a diff at all the car started shaking and i quickly turned it off. So yea the battery is disconnected and i will wait a ahwile before i see wat is up. Any ideas lol?

[tk-421]

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't. :iono:

[Yoda]

The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling.
The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't. :iono:

yea but something is up with the throttle. i gonna try it again once it resets. I think i might have to turn the screw until the idle get down to normal. Little small turns lol.
I hope i didnt get a defective one.:mad:

[jkuchta]

Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.

[Yoda]

well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.

[Yoda]

ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!

[marcus]

get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.

[jkuchta]

If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.

[Yoda]

ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm.....
Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out.

O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff?