Looking at seats...

[MGargano]

You might want to check your resistors. I had trouble with mine not making great contact. I ended up shoving mine in through the wire side so they would fit tighter.

Ok, I'll try that. Then do the dreaded reset of the SRS ECU again?

[CTScott]

Here's what I've found with the oscilloscope - Every 100ms the sensors transmit a packet of data. The beginning of the packet is always the same and the latter part varies based on pressure on the sensor.


Here are two sequential data packets from the front right sensor:
27512

Here is one packet with no weight on the sensor:
27513

Here is one packet with enough weight on the sensor for the airbag light to be lit:
27514

Based on this I can easily build a module to simulate the sensors (and to switch between an empty and occupied seat).

[CTScott]

Ok, I'll try that. Then do the dreaded reset of the SRS ECU again?

Oh yeah. I've gotten mighty good at doing it.

[MGargano]

Oh yeah. I've gotten mighty good at doing it.

Haha! Feel like taking a road trip to Jersey and doing it for me?

[MGargano]

I've got the battery disconnected now since I tried the reset and ran into the same problems I had the first time. I can't get past the first step. The SRS light is supposed to come on solid after three seconds of removing the jumper, but mine lights up as soon as the jumper is removed. There's no delay.

[CTScott]

I've got the battery disconnected now since I tried the reset and ran into the same problems I had the first time. I can't get past the first step. The SRS light is supposed to come on solid after three seconds of removing the jumper, but mine lights up as soon as the jumper is removed. There's no delay.

I think mine comes on pretty quick as well.

[CTScott]

Here's another thing that keeps the simulator simple - The sensors all "speak" at the same time. Here's the front right and rear right sampled together:

27515

[TheRealEnth]

except for that one little piece in the middle? it splts up the 2nd to last.. i have no idea what im looking at =D

[MGargano]

I think mine comes on pretty quick as well.

Reconnected the battery... still have codes 32, 55, & 56. I pushed the resistors in from the wire side as well. Is it possible to snip the yellow airbag connector and attach the wires directly with the resistor in between?

[MGargano]

Ok, I managed to get it back to just code 32 after fiddling with the SRS resistors.

[MGargano]

Try disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes, reconnecting and then measuring the voltage on the center pin to ground. for a really solid ground you might want to pop the passenger kick panel and touch the black lead to the ground bolt there.

I just tried this and registered nothing with the meter set to VDC. When I moved it to 200k ohms, it registered 6.0 between the center pin/wire and ground.

[CTScott]

I just tried this and registered nothing with the meter set to VDC. When I moved it to 200k ohms, it registered 6.0 between the center pin/wire and ground.

It really looks like your OC ECU is not responding. Take a close look at all of the wiring to and from it. Look for any sign of a damaged wire.

[MGargano]

It really looks like your OC ECU is not responding. Take a close look at all of the wiring to and from it. Look for any sign of a damaged wire.

I don't see any signs of damaged wiring or anything else out of the ordinary. I can't think of anything I might have done to damage it (dropping, etc) so I hate to think there's a problem with it. Should I start looking for a replacement?

[MGargano]

I found an OC ECU on eBay for $69.99, but I want to make sure that's the problem before I go ahead and order it. Or have we already made that conclusion? :laugh:

[cali yaris]

Based on this I can easily build a module to simulate the sensors (and to switch between an empty and occupied seat).

How much for 50? :biggrin:

[CTScott]

I found an OC ECU on eBay for $69.99, but I want to make sure that's the problem before I go ahead and order it. Or have we already made that conclusion? :laugh:

It could be the module or one of the sensors. If any one is not working properly the OCS shuts down.

Why don't you ship me your module and four sensors and I'll test all of the parts out?

[CTScott]

How much for 50? :biggrin:

How much you got?



Seriously, based on how simple I believe it is, I should be able to put together a packaged module for under $50.

This weekend I should have some time to prototype it up.

[MGargano]

It could be the module or one of the sensors. If any one is not working properly the OCS shuts down.

Why don't you ship me your module and four sensors and I'll test all of the parts out?

You rock! I was going to suggest that, but I didn't want to overstep my bounds or anything. You want the OC ECU, the four wires, and four sensors? Anything else?

[CTScott]

You rock! I was going to suggest that, but I didn't want to overstep my bounds or anything. You want the OC ECU, the four wires, and four sensors? Anything else?

No problem.

That should do it, as far as the parts go. I'll PM you my shipping address.

[MGargano]

No problem.

That should do it, as far as the parts go. I'll PM you my shipping address.

Awesome and thanks. Worst come worst, the auction for the OC ECU doesn't end for almost 30 days so I should have plenty of time to pick it up, if need be.

[MGargano]

Be on the lookout for an Eggo Waffles box in the next couple days. :laugh:

[CTScott]

mmmmm waffles...

[MGargano]

LOL. All kidding aside, though, please let me know how I can compensate you for all the help you've given me with this so far. I feel I owe you more than just $50 for a module (once you make them), so let me know what else I can do.

[1NZYaris1]

you mean you didn't leave the waffles in the box :confused:
thats abit rude :laugh:

[CTScott]

WooooooHooooo! It works!

This morning I prototyped up the sensor replacement. Initially I couldn't get it working, even though my output and timing were dead on. After a bit of head scratching I realized that the signal line is a one-wire bidirectional communication line. The OCS ECU polls the sensor, and then the sensor responds. Once I figured that out, I was good to go. I now have my device in place of the right rear sensor and have the airbag on light lit.

Next steps:

1. Bypass the other three as well.
2. Take the switch input for arm/disarm

[cali yaris]

^ Nice. I was definitely serious about a bulk purchase for other people, so keep that in mind as you go along.

[MGargano]

^ Nice. I was definitely serious about a bulk purchase for other people, so keep that in mind as you go along.

Me first! Me first! :laugh:

[cali yaris]

Yeah! What he said! Him first!

[CTScott]

^ Nice. I was definitely serious about a bulk purchase for other people, so keep that in mind as you go along.

Definitely! Once I get it buttoned up and tested on a couple of cars (MGargano and mrrock will probably be our official testers) I'll package it for retail sale. Perhaps MicroImage could be the exclusive distributor.

[MGargano]

I was really starting to lose my patience with this yesterday thanks to my non-responsive system, but now I'm officially psyched again!

[CTScott]

Two down, two to go. The front right and rear right are now done...

[MGargano]

Wooo! Halfway there!

[vten]

great Jobs guy !! when the module is ready, let me know .... I'll take one for sure :biggrin:

[CTScott]

OK. After successfully emulating all four sensors, I moved from breadboard to a packaged prototype. For ease of handling the prototype, I mounted the switch to the module. For a production unit the switch input would be two more wires that could be connected to single pole switch (mounted to the dash, center console, etc.).

In the pictures below, you can see that the OC sensor connectors are not connected to the sensors. There are six wires connecting the bypass module to the OC ECU (four signal wires and two power wires). I tapped the harness at the sensor connectors, but one could actually make the connections, right at the OC ECU, eliminating the harness to the four sensors and making it far neater to install it under a race type seat.

Passenger airbag off:
27537

And, on with a flick of the switch:
27538

[1NZYaris1]

Waiting for head to explode , your a Genius :thumbup:

[lilredrocket]

Dude your freaking great!!!

[MGargano]

Does any of this effect the passenger's seat belt light and/or chime? For example, if you arm the airbag, does the seat belt chime go off if its not buckled?

[vten]

:bow:I want it

[CTScott]

Does any of this effect the passenger's seat belt light and/or chime? For example, if you arm the airbag, does the seat belt chime go off if its not buckled?

Yes. It is just like a person sitting there, so if you arm it and the seat belt is not latched the seat belt light comes on. In the pics, I had the passenger seat belt clicked. You really wouldn't want to arm it unless you actually had a passenger, to avoid an unnecessary popping of an expensive airbag, which also results in the upper dash having to be replaced.

[MGargano]

Yes. It is just like a person sitting there, so if you arm it and the seat belt is not latched the seat belt light comes on. In the pics, I had the passenger seat belt clicked. You really wouldn't want to arm it unless you actually had a passenger, to avoid an unnecessary popping of an expensive airbag, which also results in the upper dash having to be replaced.

Ok gotcha.

[1NZYaris1]

So the plug (connector ) under the seat , how many wires do you have going to it .
My seat has 2 , and i don't have side airbags :thumbsup:

[CTScott]

So the plug (connector ) under the seat , how many wires do you have going to it .
My seat has 2 , and i don't have side airbags :thumbsup:


The OC ECU is the module attached to the bottom of the seat and has two connectors. One goes to the SRS ECU and the other goes to the fours OC sensors (gray 12 wire connector). My module taps that gray connector using six of the 12 wires.

[CTScott]

I received the Eggo Waffle box today (and it was lacking waffles). I did a quick test of your OC ECU and it is fine, which means that the issue is either with one of the sensors or a wire. I'll check it out tonight to find out for sure. Either way, it won't really matter, as I'll be shipping it back to you with one of my sensor bypass modules.

Do you want me to clip the harness off and tie it directly to the module, to keep things neat under your seat? (I'll ship back the rest of the harness with the sensor connectors).

[MGargano]

I received the Eggo Waffle box today (and it was lacking waffles). I did a quick test of your OC ECU and it is fine, which means that the issue is either with one of the sensors or a wire. I'll check it out tonight to find out for sure. Either way, it won't really matter, as I'll be shipping it back to you with one of my sensor bypass modules.

Do you want me to clip the harness off and tie it directly to the module, to keep things neat under your seat? (I'll ship back the rest of the harness with the sensor connectors).

Glad it arrived ok and sorry for not including some waffles :laugh:

Glad the ECU is working since it saves me time and money of getting a new one.

Yes, you can connect the bypass module directly to the ECU to save space and neaten things up under the seat. I'll hang on to the sensors and wires in case I go back to stock at some point.

Also, if it matters, I'm planning to mount the airbag switch in the center console near the e-brake.

Thanks!

[AdeJong 03]

wow CTScott you are making great progress.

Garm if you purchase a set in bulk i will be one of the first buyers.

this is great

[CTScott]

Glad it arrived ok and sorry for not including some waffles :laugh:

Glad the ECU is working since it saves me time and money of getting a new one.

Yes, you can connect the bypass module directly to the ECU to save space and neaten things up under the seat. I'll hang on to the sensors and wires in case I go back to stock at some point.

Also, if it matters, I'm planning to mount the airbag switch in the center console near the e-brake.

Thanks!



OK. Your module is ready to ship! I'll send it off tomorrow (to the return address on the waffles).

I checked out your sensors and cable tonight as well. The sensors are fine. The sensor connectors on the cable are the problem. When you probed some of them, you forced the probe in enough to damage the pins. So, if you ever go back to stock, you'll need to replace those ends.

[MGargano]

OK. Your module is ready to ship! I'll send it off tomorrow (to the return address on the waffles).

I checked out your sensors and cable tonight as well. The sensors are fine. The sensor connectors on the cable are the problem. When you probed some of them, you forced the probe in enough to damage the pins. So, if you ever go back to stock, you'll need to replace those ends.

Awesome! Damn that was fast! I'm glad the ECU and sensors are good. Do you, by chance, have a part number for the sensor harness, in case I want to order a new one?

Also, did you get a chance to look into the push-button stuff I PMed you?

PS- How much $$$ do I owe you for all this?

[CTScott]

I'm on vacation this week to get the kids ready for school, so I had some time today.

I hit you back with a PM on the push-button start stuff.

As far as the $$$ goes, it'll be $50. But, wait until you get it and have it all hooked-up and working before you pay me.

[MGargano]

I'm on vacation this week to get the kids ready for school, so I had some time today.

I hit you back with a PM on the push-button start stuff.

As far as the $$$ goes, it'll be $50. But, wait until you get it and have it all hooked-up and working before you pay me.

Ok, thanks! Can't wait to get this working!

[CTScott]

So, here is the completed module that I am shipping to you. With clipping the connector from the original harness, it makes for a very neat installation. The wire for the switch is 4 feet long, which is way more than enough to reach the console, where you intend to install your switch. The switch in the picture is just one that I popped on for testing.

27606

[lilredrocket]

Looks great!!! You do really good work

[heeroyuy01195]

this is awesome! Scott...you are the man! subscribed :)

[MGargano]

So, here is the completed module that I am shipping to you. With clipping the connector from the original harness, it makes for a very neat installation. The wire for the switch is 4 feet long, which is way more than enough to reach the console, where you intend to install your switch. The switch in the picture is just one that I popped on for testing.

27606

That looks amazing!!! Thanks so much!

[MGargano]

Got the module today and this thing is HOT! I'm assuming I just need a 12 volt on/off switch to arm/disarm?

[CTScott]

Got the module today and this thing is HOT! I'm assuming I just need a 12 volt on/off switch to arm/disarm?

Any switch will do, as it is switching 5 volts with no current. If you use an illuminated switch, just make sure that the illumination has separate contacts from the switching.

[MGargano]

I just finished the install and the module is working 100% perfectly! SRS light went out immediately and the passenger's airbag and seat belt lights are functioning like OEM.

CTScott... you, sir, are without a doubt THE MAN!

[lilredrocket]

Ok now for the final install pics!!!!

[MGargano]

Ok now for the final install pics!!!!

I'm actually house-sitting for a friend this week until next Monday, but I'll definitely post install pics when I get back home to my camera.

[1NZYaris1]

I'm actually house-sitting for a friend this week until next Monday, but I'll definitely post install pics when I get back home to my camera.

Now your letting the team down :laugh:

[Malaya1221]

try reading through the pages....anyone could do a DIY and when the module of ctscott will be available for us to purchase? thanks!

[MGargano]

try reading through the pages....anyone could do a DIY and when the module of ctscott will be available for us to purchase? thanks!

At this point a DIY is kind of unnecessary since the only way to get everything working is CTScott's module, which literally takes second to plug in.

Aside from his module, there's really no other way to get the system to function like OEM, unless you figure a way to mount the weight senors to your new seat/bracket.

[CTScott]

try reading through the pages....anyone could do a DIY and when the module of ctscott will be available for us to purchase? thanks!

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27606&d=1251203699

I am trying to purchase the bare OEM OC ECU connector. If I can indeed get them, then the purchased modules will all look like the one above that I shipped to Mike. If I can't get the connectors, then the module will have six color matched wires that will need to be connected to the same colored wires on the OEM harness. Another pair of wires will exit the module separately (as in the pic above) and will connect to a user supplied switch.

I can make one-offs now and ship them as I did for Mike.

[AdeJong 03]

scott i am interested in a module if youd like to make one

are you planning to make a bunch for garm?

[Bubbles]

interested as well

[CTScott]

Garm an I haven't sorted out the details yet. In the meantime I can make one-offs for people. I am trying to order the gray connectors so that they are plug-n-play. I am not sure if I am actually going to be able to. In the meantime, If you ship me your harness (the 5 legged one that goes from that gray connector to the four weight sensors, I can clip the connector and make a plug-n-play one, like I did for Mike, with his harness. I leave enough wire on either end, when I snip it, to allow you to be able to splice it back together, if you ever decide to return to the OEM seats. Also, the harness is an orderable part from Toyota for about $40, so that is another option for returning to OEM.

[AdeJong 03]

figure i should post in this thread as well

i got your bypass switch and installed it. works like a charm except on the gauge cluster the airbag light is still on (light with a person sitting and airbag going off) not the seatbelt light.

anyway to address that? i have the seat ecu, bypass switch, and seat buckle plugged in. yellow connector is still on stock seat though i dont know what that does

[CTScott]

figure i should post in this thread as well

i got your bypass switch and installed it. works like a charm except on the gauge cluster the airbag light is still on (light with a person sitting and airbag going off) not the seatbelt light.

anyway to address that? i have the seat ecu, bypass switch, and seat buckle plugged in. yellow connector is still on stock seat though i dont know what that does

That's the airbag connector. You need to plug a 3 ohm resistor into the yellow connector on both seats to make the SRS believe that the side airbag is still there.

[hayrider]

Garm an I haven't sorted out the details yet. In the meantime I can make one-offs for people. I am trying to order the gray connectors so that they are plug-n-play. I am not sure if I am actually going to be able to. In the meantime, If you ship me your harness (the 5 legged one that goes from that gray connector to the four weight sensors, I can clip the connector and make a plug-n-play one, like I did for Mike, with his harness. I leave enough wire on either end, when I snip it, to allow you to be able to splice it back together, if you ever decide to return to the OEM seats. Also, the harness is an orderable part from Toyota for about $40, so that is another option for returning to OEM.

Mr CTScott,
Per my conversations with an engineer at Toyota the COMPLETE safety system (this includes the seatbelts) will not operate if the airbag light in the dash is on! I thought the Toyota engineer was pulling my leg so I would go to the dealer. He’s correct per the two service writer’s I talked too at two different dealerships. I don’t give a shit about me but I do care about my wife and family‼️
For Pete sake help us out...I put back the stock seats but I sold them. I purchased FRS seats with Airbags because I wanted my family to be safe...

Help me please!