Looking at seats...

[MGargano]

I'm looking to upgrade the front seats in my 09' hatch but I'm honestly not really sure what's out there, especially since some of the websites I checked out are crazy expensive. I'm just looking for something with good support, OEM function (sliding, reclining front and back, folding to let passenger's in back), and something lower to the ground.

I see these on fleaBay, but I'm not sure of the quality or fitment: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA-MIATA-RX8-CAMRY-SCION-S14-LEATHER-RACING-SEATS-BK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem5d25b68e5dQQitemZ400064679517QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Appreciate any help I can get with this.

[1NZYaris1]

They look good , but the real test is how hard or soft they are ,
which you won't know until you have them .
for $200. i would buy them . my 2 cents worth. :thumbsup:

[TinyGiant]

i've been wondering if someleather seats from maybe the camry would fit.. i wish there was a good junk yard around here.. i

[MGargano]

What about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310152436191&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[cruz-gsr]

i got a set of red tenzo r use but in mint condition ill let them.

[1NZYaris1]

What about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310152436191&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

They look almost like the ones we get over here ,
Nice seat ,good quality, but the wife hated the harshness of the seat,
not soft enough for here tosh.:laugh:

[etheliters]

any pics of the tenzo r's cruz?

[MGargano]

Can anyone confirm if the Evo VIII Recaro seats fit in the Yaris?

[MGargano]

Thoughts on these? How can I tell if they're real Bride's? They say 'not made in Japan'

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110406428411&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[mrbond]

They're real Brides, but from Bride of Thailand, so not authentic.

[MGargano]

I did a quick search and didn't come up with anything...

Has anyone solved the passenger's side ABS/seat belt light problem when swapping OEM seats? I ordered these from Garm and I'm curious how to go about installing them

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=175#post175

[botchilah]

Not to sound like a snob but I'd stay away from generic / fake / replica "sport" seats. I've seen a good number of these seats (usually made in Thailand) tested from a RECARO PR video (well I guess the video was biased lol) and the seats usually break in half at the seatback when subjected to a typical collission test. The OEM seats go through a lot of rigorous testing so even if they LOOK flimsy and offer little suport, the OEM seats are far safer than these replica / fake seats.

AFAIK almost any RECARO seat (so yes the OEM Evo RECARO seats should fit) will fit into the Yaris BUT with the proper bolt-on seat frame rails. RECARO makes them but they are very expensive, like 500 U$D each since these are usually made in Japan. I have a pair that's waiting to be picked up by me from by friend who is the RECARO distributor. IMO unless you're bolting a fixed bucket seat onto the Yaris' flooring directly, get a proper seat frame rail from companies like Wedge Engineering (much cheaper than the OEM RECARO seat rails). It's a bolt-on affair, it won't move around and will stay firmly in place when you corner hard around the track / auto-x and in the event of an accident.

It's a safety thing, like good tires, good wheels and good brake pads IMHO.

[CTScott]

I did a quick search and didn't come up with anything...

Has anyone solved the passenger's side ABS/seat belt light problem when swapping OEM seats? I ordered these from Garm and I'm curious how to go about installing them

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=175#post175

There are two threads that I've noticed on this:

In this one JM350 successfully transferred the sensors to new seats:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18705&highlight=occupant+classification+sensor

In this one at the end I documented a method, which I believe will work for bypassing the sensors. I don't believe that anyone has tried it yet:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18032&highlight=occupant+classification+sensor

[cali yaris]

How can I tell if they're real Bride's? They say 'not made in Japan''

If they are not made in Japan, they are not BRIDE seats. I know the maker of the Thai version, and it is not a licensed copy, it's just a copy.

[MGargano]

Will I have any problems swapping the 09 seats? From what I read upon searching, these seats have airbag compartments built into them? Does that throw a wrench in the works in terms of changing them?

[CTScott]

Since you won't be transferring the side airbags to the new seats, you'll need to install a 3 ohm resistor across the connector (in place of the airbag) to keep the system happy.

[MGargano]

Since you won't be transferring the side airbags to the new seats, you'll need to install a 3 ohm resistor across the connector (in place of the airbag) to keep the system happy.

I haven't really looked at any of the wiring to see what's involved, so I'm not sure which connector you mean. Are there any other surprises I can expect with this swap?

[CTScott]

I haven't really looked at any of the wiring to see what's involved, so I'm not sure which connector you mean. Are there any other surprises I can expect with this swap?

It's a two pin yellow connector (under the seat) for the side airbag squib. The 3 ohm resistor trick is the same thing that is done to eliminate the steering wheel airbag, when swapping steering wheels. It fools the SRS into thinking that the airbag is still present.

I am sure there will be a few surprises, but I don't think that you'll run into anything insurmountable.

[MGargano]

It's a two pin yellow connector (under the seat) for the side airbag squib. The 3 ohm resistor trick is the same thing that is done to eliminate the steering wheel airbag, when swapping steering wheels. It fools the SRS into thinking that the airbag is still present.

I am sure there will be a few surprises, but I don't think that you'll run into anything insurmountable.

So it's as straight-forward as it sounds? Just plug the resistor into the two pins in the connector and voila?

[CTScott]

So it's as straight-forward as it sounds? Just plug the resistor into the two pins in the connector and voila?

Yes - Plug it in, and tape or heat shrink it.

[MGargano]

Yes - Plug it in, and tape or heat shrink it.

Ok so of course my local Radio Shack doesn't have 3 ohm resistors. Will a 3.3k ohm resistor work? Are they they same? Some had a 'k' and some had an 'm' and some just said 'ohms'

[kngrsll]

i have a set of weapon R seat brackets that i didnt end up using... I will sell them cheap.

maybe that will help the OP? :dunno:

[CTScott]

Ok so of course my local Radio Shack doesn't have 3 ohm resistors. Will a 3.3k ohm resistor work? Are they they same? Some had a 'k' and some had an 'm' and some just said 'ohms'

You want just ohms (k=1000's, M=millions). 3.3 ohms would be fine, but not 3.3 K or 3.3 M. The resistors should be 1/2 watt rated ones as well (they come in 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc).

[MGargano]

i have a set of weapon R seat brackets that i didnt end up using... I will sell them cheap.

maybe that will help the OP? :dunno:

Thanks, but I found seats and Wedge brackets from Garm already

[MGargano]

You want just ohms (k=1000's, M=millions). 3.3 ohms would be fine, but not 3.3 K or 3.3 M. The resistors should be 1/2 watt rated ones as well (they come in 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc).

If their website is any indicator, it looks like Radio Shack doesn't carry these at all. Looks like I've got some hunting to do, unless I want to order them online and pay $hipping. Thanks for the info though!

[CTScott]

I looked through my stash of resistors and found a bag of a couple hundred 2.5 ohm resistors. These would be fine, as anything in the range from about 2 ohms to 4 ohms will work.

Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll put a bunch in an envelope and drop them in the mail...

[MGargano]

I looked through my stash of resistors and found a bag of a couple hundred 2.5 ohm resistors. These would be fine, as anything in the range from about 2 ohms to 4 ohms will work.

Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll put a bunch in an envelope and drop them in the mail...

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'm set. I found a local mom & pop-type electronics store that had 3.3 ohm 1/2 watt resistors, so I should be good for now. Thanks again!

[CTScott]

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'm set. I found a local mom & pop-type electronics store that had 3.3 ohm 1/2 watt resistors, so I should be good for now. Thanks again!


Excellent! That's a good find. Radio Shack is becoming more and more of a cell phone hut and less and less of an electronics place.

[MGargano]

Excellent! That's a good find. Radio Shack is becoming more and more of a cell phone hut and less and less of an electronics place.

I try to avoid that place at all costs. They never have what I'm looking for and their 'help' is the least knowledgeable I've seen. They sounded like they'd never heard the word 'resistor' when I called asking for one. :thumbdown:

[cali yaris]

^ They probably thought it was a political thing.

[lilredrocket]

^Haha!!

[MGargano]

It looks like, with these resistors, I'll be all set with the driver's seat. But I have a feeling I'm going to run into problems with the passenger's seat.


In this one JM350 successfully transferred the sensors to new seats:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18705&highlight=occupant+classification+sensor

Those 4 pressure senors seem like they're no joke and the only thread on here to detail a successful swap (^^^ )no longer has any pics to show the process, so I'm screwed there.



In this one at the end I documented a method, which I believe will work for bypassing the sensors. I don't believe that anyone has tried it yet:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18032&highlight=occupant+classification+sensor

I'd gladly be a guinea pig to try CTScott's idea of tricking the Occupant Classification ECU but, after reading his post, I'd definitely need help figuring out the electrical

[CTScott]

First off, pick up the resistors. 470 ohm and 10 K ohm (four of each). They don't need t be 1/2 Watt, so you can go with 1/4 or 1/8 Watt (whatever you can find in stock).

[MGargano]

First off, pick up the resistors. 470 ohm and 10 K ohm (four of each). They don't need to be 1/2 Watt, so you can go with 1/4 or 1/8 Watt (whatever you can find in stock).

Picked up the resistors today, 1/4 watt. I'll let you know when I get the seats and I guess we can proceed to the next step

[vten]

sorry for the thread hijack ...

but I found no yellow connector under my passanger seat.... there's 3 connector underneath the seat ... 2 are connected side by side and the other single one is wrapped with a plastic cable shielding ....

so which one to plug the resistor at ?

thank you ...and sorry again for the thread hijack ...

[CTScott]

sorry for the thread hijack ...

but I found no yellow connector under my passanger seat.... there's 3 connector underneath the seat ... 2 are connected side by side and the other single one is wrapped with a plastic cable shielding ....

so which one to plug the resistor at ?

thank you ...and sorry again for the thread hijack ...

Does your car have the side airbags (and the SRS tag hanging off of the side of the seat)? If not, then you won't find the yellow connector under the seat for the airbag. Under the center of the passenger seat is the Occupant Classification ECU. It has two 12 pin connectors attached (one gray and one black). If you have the side airbag, then the yellow connector for it, is right next to the OC ECU.

[vten]

no side airbags....

so is the resistor method works on the non side airbags yaris ? and how ?

thank you

[CTScott]

There are two different purposes to the resistors:

The 3 ohm ones are used to fool the Center Airbag Sensor Assembly into thinking that the side airbags are still present.

The 10K and 470 ohm resistors are to fool the Occupant Classification ECU into thinking that the four passenger seat Occupant Classification Sensors are present and are indicating that the seat is empty or has an adult sitting there.

This thread shows the idea behind the OCS bypass:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=322171&postcount=26

[MGargano]

Seats are here! Let the games begin!

[CTScott]

Seats are here! Let the games begin!

1st Play - Remove the passenger seat.

Leave the Occupant classification ECU connected. Disconnect the four occupant classification sensors (on the four corners of the seat). Disconnect the side airbag (yellow connector next to the OC ECU).

When you get the seat out, take some pictures of the bottom of the seat, specifically of the sensors and how they are mounted.

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7863.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7864.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7865.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7866.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7867.jpg

[MGargano]

This is where I'm at so far

[CTScott]

Very good. I would like to see behind the metal shield, if you can get that angle. I want to see how the sensors are mounted between the seat and the rail. (just brainstorming on how to keep the sensors, like the person in the other post did).

[MGargano]

Looks like the metal shield is welded in place...

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7868.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7869.jpg

[MGargano]

The sensors are attached to the rail with a torx screw from the outside, or so it seems

[MGargano]

It looks like you'd have to physically remove the seat from the frame to get to at least one of these screws

[CTScott]

By meatal shield, I meant this guy (with the 060). The sensor is behind him:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7867.jpg

[lilredrocket]

I can't wait to see them installed

[MGargano]

These two torx screws hold the right rear sensor to the rail, but that silver arm is in the way. Also, the other 3 torx screws are covered by the body of seat, so I can't see a way to take them out.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7874.jpg

[MGargano]

By meatal shield, I meant this guy (with the 060). The sensor is behind him:

My bad. How's this?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7875.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7876.jpg

[CTScott]

Much better...

[MGargano]

I can't wait to see them installed

That makes two of us! :laugh:

[CTScott]

If I end up picking up the wrecked eBay Yaris, I'll have a set of seats to mess with the sensors. They appear to be resistive load cells.

Is there enough space under the new seat for the Occupant Classification ECU?

[MGargano]

Is that this guy?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7863.jpg

[CTScott]

Yes. He'll need to still be connected.

[MGargano]

Not really any room under the seat or on the brackets:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7878.jpg

[MGargano]

Is it safe to just lay it on the floor under the seat?

[MGargano]

Scratch that... I can attach it to the front of the bracket

[CTScott]

How about the seat belts - Are you going to use the exiting or replace them with harnesses?

[MGargano]

Booya!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7879.jpg

[MGargano]

How about the seat belts - Are you going to use the exiting or replace them with harnesses?

I'm using the existing belts. I already removed the seat belts from the old seats and bolted them to the new ones.

[MGargano]

Apparently the driver's side seat belt is not the same as the passenger's side. Driver's side is plugged into this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7880.jpg

[MGargano]

No idea what this is, but it's magnetic... stuck to the rail when I removed the torx screw holding it in.

[MGargano]

I attached it to the driver's side bracket. Seat belts officially swapped!

[MGargano]

*patiently awaits the next step*

[MGargano]

Ok, I plugged the 3.3 ohm resistors into the airbag sensors and installed 10k ohm resistors between Pin 1 (SVC) and Pin 2 (SIG) and 470 ohm resistor between Pins 2 & 3...

I'm getting the SRS warning light in the instrument cluster, Passenger Airbag 'Off' and passenger seat belt light blinking....

[MGargano]

...so now I'm totally lost. Help!

[CTScott]

Did you disconnect the battery while you were unplugging the airbag, etc? If not, disconnect it for a couple of minutes and then reconnect it to reset the SRS ECU.

[MGargano]

Did you disconnect the battery while you were unplugging the airbag, etc? If not, disconnect it for a couple of minutes and then reconnect it to reset the SRS ECU.

Yes, I disconnected the battery before I did anything.

[MGargano]

The only thing that seems to be working correctly is the driver's side seat belt. Driver's SRS light is on, passenger's side seat belt is blinking whether the belt is inserted or not, and the passenger's airbag light says 'off'

[CTScott]

The only thing that seems to be working correctly is the driver's side seat belt. Driver's SRS light is on, passenger's side seat belt is blinking whether the belt is inserted or not, and the passenger's airbag light says 'off'

OK. We can find out why SRS isn't happy by jumpering CG to TC on the OBDII connector, and then turning the ignition to the on position. After about 60 seconds the SRS will flash in a pattern. The codes are two digits and multiple ones may be shown.

For example, a 31 will be: flash, flash, flash, pause, flash, long pause

There will be a 2.5 second pause in between each, and then a 4 second pause before the pattern repeats.

Here are the pins to jump on the OBD connector:

27079

[MGargano]

Ok looks like possibly 32 (flash flash flash pause flash flash), 55, & 56... Hope that makes some sense

[CTScott]

32 is Occupant Classification System Malfunction

55 is Driver side squib circuit issue

56 is Passenger side squib circuit issue


After you shut off the ignition and removed the jumper the DTC's may have been cleared. With the jumper removed, turn the ignition back to on and see if the SRS light is still on.

With the seat belt, did you reconnect the 4 position connector that was next to the airbag connector?

[MGargano]

32 is Occupant Classification System Malfunction

55 is Driver side squib circuit issue

56 is Passenger side squib circuit issue


After you shut off the ignition and removed the jumper the DTC's may have been cleared. With the jumper removed, turn the ignition back to on and see if the SRS light is still on.

With the seat belt, did you reconnect the 4 position connector that was next to the airbag connector?

All lights are still lit after removing the jumper. And yes, the only things not connected are the 4 weight sensors.

[CTScott]

OK. Can you either measure one of the 3 ohm resistors with an ohm meter, or just give me the colors of the stripes to make sure that they are correct?

[MGargano]

How's this?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7887.jpg

[MGargano]

I pushed one end of the wire into each of the pins of the yellow SRS connector, with the resistor in the middle

[CTScott]

OK. There's one problem. That resistor is not 3 ohms, it's 3.3 Mega Ohms (which looks like an open circuit). A 3 ohm resistor will be: orange, black, gold, silver or gold


http://media.digikey.com/photos/Ohmite%20Photos/OF30GJE.jpg

[MGargano]

Goddamn it! I swear you can't trust anyone these days! The store I got them from sold them loose, not in a package, so I took their word that they were 3 ohms. I even specified not 3k or 3m!

Well at least that's one problem solved! :laugh:

[CTScott]

Yeah, that will fix codes 55 and 56.

For the 32, do you have enough 10K resistors (4 more) to replace the 470's with 10K's? That would move us to the middle of the sensor range, instead of off to one end, like we currently have it.

[MGargano]

Yeah, that will fix codes 55 and 56.

For the 32, do you have enough 10K resistors (4 more) to replace the 470's with 10K's? That would move us to the middle of the sensor range, instead of off to one end, like we currently have it.

I don't have more, but they're easily available at the Crap Shack. You want me to replace all the resistors in the pressure sensor pins with 10k? So a total of 8 10k's and no 470's?

[CTScott]

I don't have more, but they're easily available at the Crap Shack. You want me to replace all the resistors in the pressure sensor pins with 10k? So a total of 8 10k's and no 470's?

I was going to have you try that if you had them laying around. Let me go probe my still-installed sensors and I'll give you a better answer...

[MGargano]

I was going to have you try that if you had them laying around. Let me go probe my still-installed sensors and I'll give you a better answer...

Ok, sounds good. I won't be able to fool around with this again until Sunday anyway.

BTW- Through all this I totally forgot to ask- what is the expected outcome? Will I have OEM airbag function (minus, obviously, the side airbags in the old seats)?

[CTScott]

OK. I just probed mine - I see 3.94 volts on each of the SIG lines with the seat empty, ~4.00 volts with me sitting on the seat (and I weigh about 155 lbs), and ~4.20 volts when I put all of my weight on the corner being measured.

Based on that we should flip your 10K and 470 ohm resistors to make the passenger airbag active. To make it inactive, we are probably looking at increasing the 470 ohm to about 2.5K to 3K.

When you have a chance, measure the voltage of one of your connectors from pin 2 to pin 3 for me. Also measure Pin 1 to Pin 3.

[MGargano]

Based on that we should flip your 10K and 470 ohm resistors to make the passenger airbag active. To make it inactive, we are probably looking at increasing the 470 ohm to about 2.5K to 3K.

When you have a chance, measure the voltage of one of your connectors from pin 2 to pin 3 for me. Also measure Pin 1 to Pin 3.

Ok, so I should run 10k from 1-2 and 470 from 2-3? That should keep the passenger's airbag active all the time?

[MGargano]

Oops... I meant I should change it to 470 from 1-2 and 10k from 2-3, right? I currently have it set with 10k from 1-2 and 470 from 2-3

[CTScott]

Correct 10K 2-3 and 470 1-2 for airbag always active.

[MGargano]

Correct 10K 2-3 and 470 1-2 for airbag always active.

Ok, I'll try to do this tomorrow before work and let you know. If all goes well, the passenger's airbag light should say 'on' and the passenger's seat belt light will turn off when belted, right?

[CTScott]

Ok, I'll try to do this tomorrow before work and let you know. If all goes well, the passenger's airbag light should say 'on' and the passenger's seat belt light will turn off when belted, right?

I believe so.

[MGargano]

Fingers crossed!

[MGargano]

How's this look?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7889.jpg

I couldn't wait until tomorrow or Sunday :laugh:

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7889.jpg

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7888.jpg

[MGargano]

Correct 10K 2-3 and 470 1-2 for airbag always active.

No change in any of the indicators after swapping these, but maybe it's because of the missing/wrong resistors in the airbag sensors?

[CTScott]

Did you by any chance measure the voltage between 2 and 3 and 1 and 3?

[MGargano]

Did you by any chance measure the voltage between 2 and 3 and 1 and 3?

I'm sure I have the required tools for this, but how would I go about doing this?

[cali yaris]

this is a really good read. Guys when it's all done, can it be compressed and posted as a DIY? I know a lot of people who would like to know how to do this!

[jonismyname]

you guys are no joke. if co-workers and married couples could co-operate as well in the same room as you guys are over a forum the world would be a very different place... rock on.

[CTScott]

We'll definitely turn this into a DIY once we figure it all out.

As far as clearing the current stored codes, Let's try a couple minute battery disconnect. The SRS system supposedly clears most types of stored codes if it is off for a while. If that doesn't work, we can manually clear them via that same jumper we used to make it flash the light patterns. The process for clearing them that way is a bit convoluted, so hopefully the power down will do the trick.

[MGargano]

We'll definitely turn this into a DIY once we figure it all out.

As far as clearing the current stored codes, Let's try a couple minute battery disconnect. The SRS system supposedly clears most types of stored codes if it is off for a while. If that doesn't work, we can manually clear them via that same jumper we used to make it flash the light patterns. The process for clearing them that way is a bit convoluted, so hopefully the power down will do the trick.

I'm guessing I should wait until I install the correct 3 ohm resistors in the SRS senors before disconnecting the battery? Otherwise we'll still have the same problem right?

[CTScott]

You could try it as-is to see if we clear the code 32 and have the passenger air bag on light.

[MGargano]

You could try it as-is to see if we clear the code 32 and have the passenger air bag on light.

Roger that. How long should I leave the battery disconnected?

[CTScott]

Roger that. How long should I leave the battery disconnected?

5 minutes should be enough.

[MGargano]

5 minutes should be enough.

Should I jump the OBDII ports again? Or just turn the ignition to 'on' and check the indicators?

[CTScott]

Should I jump the OBDII ports again? Or just turn the ignition to 'on' and check the indicators?

Power it up once to see, and then power off, jump and read the flashes. Now hopefully just codes 55 and 56 come up.

[MGargano]

No good. SRS, passenger airbag 'off', and passenger seat belt indicators still lit. The jump showed the same 32, 55, & 56 codes

[CTScott]

No good. SRS, passenger airbag 'off', and passenger seat belt indicators still lit. The jump showed the same 32, 55, & 56 codes

OK. Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage?

[MGargano]

Rock n' Roll

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7890.jpg

[MGargano]

Just tell me what I'm doing here... it's been forever since I've used this thing lol

[CTScott]

Probes are in the right hole. Switch it to VDC 20. Touch the black lead to pin 3 and the red to 1 and then 3.

[MGargano]

Probes are in the right hole. Switch it to VDC 20. Touch the black lead to pin 3 and the red to 1 and then 3.

Roger. We're talking about one of the four weight sensors, right?

[CTScott]

Roger. We're talking about one of the four weight sensors, right?

Correct

[MGargano]

Ok with the meter on VDC 20 I'm getting zero on everything. WTF?

[CTScott]

You have to have the ignition on.

[MGargano]

The ignition is on, for the record

[MGargano]

I just tried a different sensor, still nothing...

[CTScott]

Hmmm. Measure the voltage between the battery posts to make sure the meter is working.

[MGargano]

Hmmm. Measure the voltage between the battery posts to make sure the meter is working.

That's working. Meter measure 12.55 or so volts

[CTScott]

OK. Check the ECU-B fuse under the hood.

[MGargano]

OK. Check the ECU-B fuse under the hood.

Fuse is intact

[MGargano]

Is it possible to resume this tomorrow? My car's in the driveway and it's starting to rain. Plus it's getting kinda late. I have all day tomorrow, if you're game and available?

[CTScott]

No problem.

[CTScott]

27119

The first thing to check, when you have a chance today is a couple of voltage readings on the Occupant Classification ECU cable harness.

If you look at the image above J24 has the Black connector going to it and U1 has the Gray connector.

Pull the J24 Black connector and then measure the following (on the cable connector side):

Put the black lead on pin 3 and the red one on the wire being checked.

Pin 1 (Violet wire) to Pin 3 (White wire with black stripe)

Pin 7 (Beige wire) to Pin 3 (White wire with black stripe)

[MGargano]

Pin 1-3: looks like .14
Pin 3-7: looks like .12/.13

[MGargano]

And, of course, as soon as I get outside, it starts pouring rain. I'd continue, but I have to keep getting out of the car so I can move closer to my house where my iPod Touch can pickup an internet signal to keep refreshing the forum for directions :laugh:

[CTScott]

Pin 1-3: looks like .14
Pin 3-7: looks like .12/.13

Nothing like working in the rain.

Are those readings with the ignition on or off?

It should be on for the readings. 7-3 should be 12V with the key on or off. 1-3 should be 12V only with the key on.

Also, with your meter, when I had you check the meter by measuring the battery voltage last night, did you see 14., as opposed to the .14 that you just read on 1-3?

[MGargano]

Nothing like working in the rain.

Are those readings with the ignition on or off?

It should be on for the readings. 7-3 should be 12V with the key on or off. 1-3 should be 12V only with the key on.

Also, with your meter, when I had you check the meter by measuring the battery voltage last night, did you see 14., as opposed to the .14 that you just read on 1-3?

Ok it's all good now. Your diagram's pin numbers didn't match up with my connector but I was able to figure it out based on the colors. I have 12V all around now.

My connector seems to be labeled left to right, whereas as yours is right to left

[MGargano]

Scratch that...I'm retarded. Your pic is of the ECU, not the connector. It's all good now.

[CTScott]

Scratch that...I'm retarded. Your pic is of the ECU, not the connector. It's all good now.

That gets confusing. Sometimes the pics are of the cable side, sometimes of the device side.

OK. So both power feeds into the module are fine. Try removing the resistors and then reading the 1-3 and 2-3 voltages on the sensor connectors.

[cali yaris]

I am totally subscribed to this. Mgargano and CTScott, BIG props to both of you for having this conversation on a thread. :bow: :bow: :bow:

[MGargano]

That gets confusing. Sometimes the pics are of the cable side, sometimes of the device side.

OK. So both power feeds into the module are fine. Try removing the resistors and then reading the 1-3 and 2-3 voltages on the sensor connectors.

Which pins get which leads?

[CTScott]

Which pins get which leads?

black on 3, red on 1 then 2

[MGargano]

Ignition on, J24 plugged back into the OC-ECU, resistors on the 4 weights sensors removed and....

Nothing. Zeros on all four sensors for 1-3 and 2-3

[CTScott]

And, U1 (the gray connector) is plugged in?

[MGargano]

And, U1 (the gray connector) is plugged in?

Yes

[CTScott]

OK. Try measuring each of the three pins relative to chassis ground (a seat mounting bolt would be fine). Red on 1, 2, and then 3 and black to the bolt.

[MGargano]

OK. Try measuring each of the three pins relative to chassis ground (a seat mounting bolt would be fine). Red on 1, 2, and then 3 and black to the bolt.

Still nothing...all zeros

[CTScott]

Hmmmm. Can you remove one of the sensors from the OEM seat and plug it in, so we can take some readings with it attached?

[MGargano]

Hmmmm. Can you remove one of the sensors from the OEM seat and plug it in, so we can take some readings with it attached?

It'll definitely be a challenge, but I will certainly try

[MGargano]

Pardon the language, but....

Boo-fucking-ya!

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7892.jpg

[MGargano]

CTScott... fellow forum members... meet the left rear passenger's weight sensor.

[MGargano]

...and his friend, the left front passenger's weight senor...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7893.jpg

[CTScott]

Nice. Now the tricky part is to get the meter on with them connected. To do so, I take a sewing pin or needle and shove it into the soft rubber where the wire enters the connector. We should only need one, as we can take the measurements to ground.

[MGargano]

...and the right side front...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7894.jpg

[MGargano]

...and last, but certainly not least, the right side rear sensor...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7895.jpg

[MGargano]

Sorry... I'm all done gloating and ready for instructions :laugh:

[CTScott]

Sorry... I'm all done gloating and ready for instructions :laugh:

Look up to #151.

[MGargano]

Ok, so red lead to 1, 2, and 3 and black lead to ground?

[CTScott]

Ok, so red lead to 1, 2, and 3 and black lead to ground?

Yes

[MGargano]

Yes

Still nothing. I plugged all 4 sensors in and tested each.

[ChinoCharles]

27131

[MGargano]

LOL I'm really glad everyone's this thread so much. I had no idea it would turn into a 150+ post affair but I'm really enjoying this and can't wait to see it through

[CTScott]

Still nothing. I plugged all 4 sensors in and tested each.

Hmmm. The only thing I can think of is that maybe with the side squibs being open circuits (with the too high resistor value), that the OC is disabled. Let's hold off until you get the 3 ohm resistors and get them hooked up.

[MGargano]

Hmmm. The only thing I can think of is that maybe with the side squibs being open circuits (with the too high resistor value), that the OC is disabled. Let's hold off until you get the 3 ohm resistors and get them hooked up.

Ok. It might be a few days since I ended up having to order them online. I think those resistors might make a difference since the passenger's seat belt light is lit too and all that stuff is connected together.

[cali yaris]

well, crap, what are we supposed to do while we're waiting?

[MGargano]

well, crap, what are we supposed to do while we're waiting?

Figure out a way for me to mount the OEM sensors to the new seat so they function properly?

[CTScott]

Figure out a way for me to mount the OEM sensors to the new seat so they function properly?

Since you have them off of the seats now, let's see some pics of all sides of one.

[MGargano]

This is #61- right side rear sensor:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7895.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7898.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7897.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7896.jpg

[MGargano]

...and this is the right side front, #037:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7894.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7901.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7900.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7899.jpg

[MGargano]

Those senors are connected to those black brackets by two screws and this...:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7903.jpg

[MGargano]

Some close-ups of the sensor with it's clothes off:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7904.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7905.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7906.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7907.jpg

[CTScott]

Wow, they really didn't design them to be easily transferred to other seats.

[MGargano]

Wow, they really didn't design them to be easily transferred to other seats.

They sure didn't; especially considering how the rear brackets are designed. Without the rear sensors and their brackets, the OEM seat and bracket/rail can't be held together. The rear sensor/bracket is the only piece with threaded holes, holding the whole thing together. So the seat depends on the sensors and vice versa. With all four sensors out, there's nothing holding the bracket to the bottom of the seat.

[CTScott]

To be able to take the weight measurements they need to be between the seat and the floor. Once we get the sensor bypass figured out, the next step will be adding our own method of deciding whether or not the airbag should be armed. It could be as simple as a switch you have to flick or as complex as a set of round load cells that look like washers that would be mounted under the aftermarket seats.

[MGargano]

I'm really glad you haven't given up on this yet! I'd be totally screwed without your help and I really appreciate all this. You totally rock!

[CTScott]

I live for this kind of wacky stuff.

[mrrock]

I have been reading too and it really has helped. don't mind the switch idea.
Most of the time I would just like it on as the only other passenger is my wife.
You really have been great to spend as much time to help out.
Even all the stalkers thank you

[vten]

update please :D ....this thread is making me affraid to install my recaros :(

[CTScott]

We're waiting for his 3 ohm resistors to arrive for bypassing the side airbags.

[MGargano]

We're waiting for his 3 ohm resistors to arrive for bypassing the side airbags.

Resistors shipped yesterday... should have them some time between tomorrow and Friday.

[MGargano]

To test the voltage going to the sensors, can't I touch the red lead of the multimeter to the silver rivets (?) near the GND, OUT, VCC?

[MGargano]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7907.jpg

[CTScott]

Now that you have the cover off you sure can. You can hold the black lead on the head of that phillips head screw (which is connected to ground) and touch the red to VCC and OUT.

Just be mighty careful not to touch two at the same time.

[MGargano]

You can hold the black lead on the head of that phillips head screw (which is connected to ground)

The philip's head screw all the way at the top left of the pic? Or the rivet next to GND?

[CTScott]

The screw in the top left. If you look at the PCB a trace connects it to ground. When working with two probes I like to have one one something that it won't easily slip off of, like a screw head.

[MGargano]

The screw in the top left. If you look at the PCB a trace connects it to ground. When working with two probes I like to have one one something that it won't easily slip off of, like a screw head.

Beautiful. I'll give this a try and report back.

[MGargano]

No dice... still no voltage :frown: I guess I'll have to wait for those 3 ohm resistors

[CTScott]

No dice... still no voltage :frown: I guess I'll have to wait for those 3 ohm resistors

Those points are where the connector is soldered to the PCB, so you shouldn't have seen anything different than we were seeing the other day. I thought you were asking because Santa came early.

[MGargano]

Those points are where the connector is soldered to the PCB, so you shouldn't have seen anything different than we were seeing the other day. I thought you were asking because Santa came early.

Unfortunately not...Santa's gotta come all the way from WI to NJ. Shouldn't be any later than Friday.

[vten]

did you get the resistor yet? any update?

[MGargano]

did you get the resistor yet? any update?

I'm really disappointed in the place I ordered them from. Their website shows the resistors as 'shipped' on Monday but I still haven't received them as of today (Saturday) so I hope to have them Monday.

[CTScott]

Which place did you order them from?

[MGargano]

Which place did you order them from?

VetcoElectronics.com. And I paid out the a$$ since it was such a small order... $16.82 for 4 resistors

[CTScott]

Dang! I should have just dropped some of the ones I have laying around in an envelope and dropped them in the mail. You would have had them in a day or two for the cost of a stamp.

[MGargano]

Dang! I should have just dropped some of the ones I have laying around in an envelope and dropped them in the mail. You would have had them in a day or two for the cost of a stamp.

Yeah.. big mistake on my part. I know better now! :laugh:

[MGargano]

Resistors are finally here! This project is officially back on track!

[AdeJong 03]

nice man! keep us updated

[MGargano]

This is a 3 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor, right?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7942.jpg

[MGargano]

Nothing so far. I plugged the 3 ohm (presumably) resistors into the airbag sensors, turned the key, and all lights are still lit. Also, still no voltage to the weight sensors. I disconnected the battery and will try again in a few minutes, but I'm thinking maybe the SRS system needs to be reset/cleared.

[cali yaris]

more than a few -- I've heard Toyota techs wait 20 to make sure the SRS system resets (it has it's own battery, btw)

[CTScott]

Correct on the resistors. Garm is correct on the reserve power for the SRS ECU.

[MGargano]

more than a few -- I've heard Toyota techs wait 20 to make sure the SRS system resets (it has it's own battery, btw)

:laugh: I figured that out first-hand. I pulled the battery for about 10 minutes, reconnected, and still nothing. It's been pulled about an hour or so now. Think it's time for a second attempt?

[MGargano]

Is there a definite answer for how long it takes the SRS ECU to reset itself with a battery disconnect? I want to make sure all the SRS reserve power is drained before trying this again.

[CTScott]

Here's what the SM says:

Wait at least 90 seconds after the ignition switch is
turned off and the negative (-) terminal cable is
disconnected from the battery before starting the
operation.
(The SRS is equipped with a back-up power source, so
if work is started within 90 seconds of disconnecting
the negative (-) terminal cable of the battery, the SRS
may be deployed).

[MGargano]

I disconnected the battery overnight (about 13 hours or so) and tried it this morning... still nothing positive. All dash indicators are still lit.

[CTScott]

Try reading the codes from the SRS again.

[MGargano]

Try reading the codes from the SRS again.

Same as before- 32, 55, & 56

[CTScott]

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

[DorytheYaris]

I'm looking to upgrade the front seats in my 09' hatch but I'm honestly not really sure what's out there, especially since some of the websites I checked out are crazy expensive. I'm just looking for something with good support, OEM function (sliding, reclining front and back, folding to let passenger's in back), and something lower to the ground.

I see these on fleaBay, but I'm not sure of the quality or fitment: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA-MIATA-RX8-CAMRY-SCION-S14-LEATHER-RACING-SEATS-BK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem5d25b68e5dQQitemZ400064679517QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Appreciate any help I can get with this.

If you get rid of your seats I WILL GLADLY buy your stock passenger seat from you! I need one desperately!!!!! and I am in NJ!!! :thumbup:

[MGargano]

If you get rid of your seats I WILL GLADLY buy your stock passenger seat from you! I need one desperately!!!!! and I am in NJ!!! :thumbup:

If I do decide to sell the OEM passenger seat it will most likely be without the four weight sensors. I haven't made up my mind about getting rid of the OEM seats yet though. I want to get the new ones working 100% before I get rid of the old ones. I'll definitely keep you in mind though.

[MGargano]

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

Ok I'll give this a try ASAP. Thanks for posting the instructions.

[DorytheYaris]

If I do decide to sell the OEM passenger seat it will most likely be without the four weight sensors. I haven't made up my mind about getting rid of the OEM seats yet though. I want to get the new ones working 100% before I get rid of the old ones. I'll definitely keep you in mind though.

Thank you :)

[MGargano]

Here is the procedure for manually clearing the stored codes (The SM says that some codes do not clear with a power down):

1. With a jumper, connect the TC and CG terminals on the OBD port.

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper frm TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

3. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

4. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. Once it does, within 2 to 4 seconds disconnect TC.

5. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will come one solid again. Within 2 to 4 seconds after the SRS lights, reconnect the jumper to TC.

6. Within 2 to 4 seconds the SRS light will go off. One second later, if all DTCs are cleared the SRS light will flash steadily on and off. If codes are still registered it will flash in the pattern to indicate the stored codes.

Ok this is either impossible or I'm doing something wrong. It's really hard to read, interpret, and follow directions in 2-4 seconds. Also, the light is coming on solid immediately after disconnecting the jumper, not after 2-4 seconds so I'm not sure what's up there.

I thought I had it at first and was down to only code 32. Then I probed one of the weight sensors (still nothing!) and checked the codes again. Now I'm getting 32 and 55, but not 56. WTF?

[MGargano]

2. When the SRS light starts flashing the codes, within 3 to 10 seconds remove the jumper from TC. After 3 seconds the SRS light will come on solid.

I'm getting stuck right at the beginning. The SRS light should come on solid after 3 seconds, but instead it comes on solid immediately after the jumper is disconnected.

[CTScott]

You might want to try two jumpers, where you can leave them on the pins and then connect them while your hands are up in visible range of the display.

[MGargano]

You might want to try two jumpers, where you can leave them on the pins and then connect them while your hands are up in visible range of the display.

That's actually what I tried. I have one pin in each connector and am connecting the two with an alligator-clip wire but it's still tough. That aside, it doesn't seem to be going the way the directions indicate it should with the flashes, solids, etc.

[MGargano]

Ok, trying your idea I'm 99% I successfully cleared the codes. Well, codes 55 & 56 are gone, but code 32 remains flashing.

[CTScott]

Cool. At this point you must feel like your defusing a bomb.

Code 32 is the OCS. The issue right now is the lack of a base load on the sensors. They are calibrated for the weight of the empty seat.

Are you still measuring no voltage on the sensors?

[MGargano]

Cool. At this point you must feel like your defusing a bomb.

Code 32 is the OCS. The issue right now is the lack of a base load on the sensors. They are calibrated for the weight of the empty seat.

Are you still measuring no voltage on the sensors?

I was measuring no voltage on the sensors with all the codes still flashing but I haven't tried it now with only code 32. Maybe they won't receive voltage if they don't sense any weight at all? The sensors are plugged into the system, but are just laying on the floor in the car.

[CTScott]

How about putting some pressure on each with a c-clamp or stacking them and using one clamp?

[MGargano]

How about putting some pressure on each with a c-clamp or stacking them and using one clamp?

I'll try this tomorrow after work and report back

[MGargano]

How about putting some pressure on each with a c-clamp or stacking them and using one clamp?

A preliminary run of this didn't seem to work but I only used one clamp per sensor. I'm also not sure which part is actually sensing the weight. Is it the four raised buttons on top?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7899.jpg

Also, there is a threaded hole in the side of each bracket which goes through the black button in the right of this pic. It looks like the bolt goes through the button and touches the metal body of the sensor. I'm not sure if it's providing some kind of ground, etc.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7903.jpg

[CTScott]

In the bottom pic, the flat area between those two buttons with the flexible flat cable coming off is the actual sensor. You need to put pressure on the plate below the buttons (which looks like it floats on the shafts below the buttons), without actually crunching the orange circuit board. You could cut a piece of wood or metal to just fit between the two buttons, and then clamp that against the plate below the circuit board.

[MGargano]

Ok I'll give that a try when I get home.

[CTScott]

When I have a chance later today I'll do some experimentation with the OCS on Crashy.

I replaced her popped airbags and pretensioners with resistors last night and reset the SRS ECU (It took me about 10 rounds to get it fully reset and I even rigged a momentary switch up to make it easier). She had more than 10 stored SRS DTC's.

[MGargano]

I'm glad to hear it wasn't just me having problems clearing the SRS codes!

[CTScott]

You really have to either memorize the pattern or have a second person there to read the instructions to you. I was monkeying with it at midnight, so I couldn't recruit one of my kids to help me.

[MGargano]

After about 20 attempts, I finally ended up just memorizing it. I was also getting thrown by the lack of a 3 second delay in the first step and the fact that it was close to 95 degrees while I was trying to do this. Extending the length of the jumper wires definitely helped though.

[CTScott]

OK. Now that the SRS is happy, I just did some experimentation with the OCS. The resistors will definitely not work, as there is a signal component as well from the sensor. There is a DC voltage, which is proportional to the weight applied to the sensor, but there is also an analog waveform on the signal pin. When I connected the resistors and power on the ignition, I would see the correct voltage on the signal pin for a couple of seconds, then the voltage would drop to zero and the passenger seat belt light would flash rapidly. Checking the DTC showed a 32. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the sensor, the DTC would go away and the OCS would operate normally. Tonight I am going to pull the sensors off of the seat, so I can experiment with one.

[MGargano]

OK. Now that the SRS is happy, I just did some experimentation with the OCS. The resistors will definitely not work, as there is a signal component as well from the sensor. There is a DC voltage, which is proportional to the weight applied to the sensor, but there is also an analog waveform on the signal pin. When I connected the resistors and power on the ignition, I would see the correct voltage on the signal pin for a couple of seconds, then the voltage would drop to zero and the passenger seat belt light would flash rapidly. Checking the DTC showed a 32. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the sensor, the DTC would go away and the OCS would operate normally. Tonight I am going to pull the sensors off of the seat, so I can experiment with one.

I'm glad to hear, again, that it's not just me having problems with this. I look forward to hearing what you discover when you pull the sensors.

[CTScott]

I just took the seat apart (which turned out to be a challenge, as my largest torx bit is a T30). I realized that you can separate the seat base from the seat. Doing so provides a great way to mount an aftermarket seat to the four sensors. The silver bolts sticking out of the sensors are the mounting points. It seems like four heavy gauge L brackets or two 16" long pieces of angle iron are all that would be required.

27489

[MGargano]

Mine looks the same... minus all the rust and that my sensors aren't bolted to the base anymore. But my passenger's seat is in two pieces like yours.

[CTScott]

Did you consider mounting your new seats to the base?

By the way, the carpet was completely saturated and the spare tire well was full to the top with water, hence the wicked rust.

[MGargano]

Did you consider mounting your new seats to the base?

I honestly didn't think of it since the new seats came with Wedge brackets, which are much lower than the OEM base. I figured the two seats would be at different heights if I were to mount the passenger to the OEM bracket and keep the driver on the Wedge bracket. Plus, I'm not sure if the new seat bolts up to the OEM bracket.

[CTScott]

I honestly didn't think of it since the new seats came with Wedge brackets, which are much lower than the OEM base. I figured the two seats would be at different heights if I were to mount the passenger to the OEM bracket and keep the driver on the Wedge bracket. Plus, I'm not sure if the new seat bolts up to the OEM bracket.


OK. Just a thought, while I was under there. I was thinking that if you mounted the passenger seat to the OEM base, that you would also mount the driver seat that way. I haven't pulled that one yet, but it looks like there's an equivalent height set of mounting points on that side.

Anyway, I removed the sensors. With them off of the base I am still seeing voltage on the sensor signal wires. The airbag off light was on. I clamped all four sensors with c clamps and now have the airbag on light.

[MGargano]

OK. Just a thought, while I was under there. I was thinking that if you mounted the passenger seat to the OEM base, that you would also mount the driver seat that way. I haven't pulled that one yet, but it looks like there's an equivalent height set of mounting points on that side.

Anyway, I removed the sensors. With them off of the base I am still seeing voltage on the sensor signal wires. The airbag off light was on. I clamped all four sensors with c clamps and now have the airbag on light.

I forgot to mention that the new seats are attached to the base with torx bolts from the top (the same way the base is attached to the floor of the car), while the OEM seats attach to the brackets/sensors from the sides, so I think using the OEM brackets with these seats isn't an option for me.

Do you think there's something wrong with my sensors/system since I'm not seeing voltage on the signal wires? There is, of course, the possibility that I'm doing something wrong in testing for voltage, by the way :laugh:

Any chance you could post a pic of your clamp set up so I can duplicate? Also, did you have to reset the SRS codes in order for the airbag light to turn to 'on'? Or did it just change as soon as you clamped the sensors?

[CTScott]

I am measuring between the center wire (which is the signal output) and a chassis ground. I am using a needle probe, which is a very thin, sharp probe. With the waterproof connector, I am sticking it into the rubber seal around the wire.



27490

27491

27492

[MGargano]

I am measuring between the center wire (which is the signal output) and a chassis ground. I am using a needle probe, which is a very thin, sharp probe. With the waterproof connector, I am sticking it into the rubber seal around the wire.

Ok, I'll definitely give this another try tomorrow. I don't have work so I should have plenty of time to mess around.

Out of curiosity, based on what you see so far, does it look possible to turn the airbag (and seat belt light/chime) on and off with a toggle switch? Or will we have to rig something using the OEM sensors?

[CTScott]

Ok, I'll definitely give this another try tomorrow. I don't have work so I should have plenty of time to mess around.

Out of curiosity, based on what you see so far, does it look possible to turn the airbag (and seat belt light/chime) on and off with a toggle switch? Or will we have to rig something using the OEM sensors?

I'm not sure yet. Tomorrow morning I'll take a look at the signal output with an oscilloscope.

[MGargano]

I'm psyched. I have a feeling tomorrow's going to be a good day for this project.

[1NZYaris1]

You Guy's deserve an award :thumbup: , soon we can all install sports seats :drool:

[MGargano]

I have all four sensors clamped like this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7943.jpg

Airbag 'Off' light and seat belt lights are still lit. Also not reading any voltage on the center wire.

[CTScott]

OK. With ignition power off, try reading resistance between the center wire and either of the outside wires. That will verify if you're actually making a good connection to the wire. You should see 48K ohms between the center and either outside wire.

[MGargano]

Ok. Should I keep the sensor clamped for this exercise? And I assume I'm changing the setting on the multimeter from VDC to ohms?

[CTScott]

Correct on VDC to ohms. Clamping is fine - It won't have any effect on the readings.

[MGargano]

Which setting am I putting the multimeter to?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7945.jpg
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab279/MGargano1/HPIM7945.jpg

I got a reading each time (center to left and center to right) with the black lead on center and the red on either outside wire but I have a feeling I have the meter on the wrong setting.

[CTScott]

Put the meter on 200K (always go to the next highest above what you are trying to see).

[MGargano]

Ok, with the meter on 200k, black lead in the center, red on either outside wire, I got 4.4 both times. I tried a few times and the numbers kept bouncing around some, but the most consistent (when I held my hands steady) was 4.4.

[CTScott]

OK. So right now your SRS light is off, air bag off is lit, and passenger seat belt is lit?

Try disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes, reconnecting and then measuring the voltage on the center pin to ground. for a really solid ground you might want to pop the passenger kick panel and touch the black lead to the ground bolt there.

[MGargano]

OK. So right now your SRS light is off, air bag off is lit, and passenger seat belt is lit?

No, sir. All three lights, including the SRS, are still lit.

[CTScott]

With the SRS, are you still seeing the DTC 32?

[MGargano]

I just checked it. I now have 32, 55, & 56 again.

[CTScott]

You might want to check your resistors. I had trouble with mine not making great contact. I ended up shoving mine in through the wire side so they would fit tighter.