keyless entry broken?

[be_ha]

Hey all,

I've got an 07 liftback, have had it for almost exactly 2 years now. Just last week the key less entry stopped working. It's not the aftermarket kind it came with the car (unlock/lock are part of the key).

Has this happened to anyone else after such a short amount of time? It's definitely not the battery as I replace it (and the little red light keeps going off when I hit a button) so I'm thinking it may be the receiver unit in the car.

Are there any fuses I could possibly check before bringing it into the dealership to get it looked at? Any other thoughts?

TIA

B

[talnlnky]

if you are sure its the keyless, and not a dead battery in your remote.... then the most likely culprit is a malfunctioning relay or actuator in the door. Sometimes relays will burn out... sometimes actuators will get stuck in place. Relays cost less than $5, actuators should be less than $25.

[CTScott]

Do you have more than one of the key remotes, and if so, do they both not work?

The door control receiver gets its power via the DOME fuse, which is in the under hood fuse panel. If it was popped, the light wouldn't turn on when you open your door, and the map lights wouldn't work.

[be_ha]

crapola,

I only have the one power key (and a seperate regular key). So I can't test with another one. aaaaaaaaaaand the dome light definitely works (just had it on last night when the door was open) so I guess it can't be the fuse.

The dealership wants 25 beans just to hook it up to the diagnostic computer to see what the culprit is. ugh that's frustrating on a 2 year old car. I bought this thing so I wouldn't have to go through this :P

B

[CTScott]

I have the info on how to make the system "learn" a new key. When I am back in my office this evening, I'll post it for you and you can give that a try.

[CTScott]

Try the following procedure, selecting "confirmation mode" which will make the system indicate how many remotes it is programmed for. Basically, that will tell you if the receiver is alive. If it responds, then try re-adding your key remote. If that doesn't work, then the key remote is the problem.



Programming To Program Wireless Remote Transmitters:
Procedure

Begin with:

The driver’s door open and unlocked.
Key out of the ignition.
1. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds.

NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds.

2. Close and open driver’s door TWICE.
3. Insert the key into the ignition and remove it.

NOTE: Steps 4 – 6 should be performed within 40 seconds.

4. Close and open the driver’s door twice.
5. Insert the key into the ignition.
6. Close the door.
7. Turn the ignition switch from “Lock” to “On” and back to “Lock” at about 1 second
intervals to select the desired mode:

-1 time for ADD mode.

-2 times for REWRITE mode.

-3 times for CONFIRMATION mode.

-5 times for PROHIBITION mode.

8. Remove the key from the ignition.
9. To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle “lock” to “unlock” a
number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7.


NOTE: If Confirmation or Prohibition modes have been selected, opening the door will
complete the procedure.

10. For Add or Rewrite modes do the following within 40 seconds of Door
Lock confirmation:

A. Press both transmitter Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously between 1 and
1.5 seconds and release.

B. Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter Lock button for more than 1
second and release.

If the transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will
cycle “lock” to “unlock” once at this time.

If there are problems with the transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the
locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct
transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure.

C. If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B.

11. Open the driver’s door to conclude programming mode.

[be_ha]

Wow thanks ctscott!

I'll give it a go tomorrow, this is huge!

B

[IllusionX]

2 years old yaris... if less than 60,000km it's still under warranty. they have no right to charge you for the diagnostic and repairs. It should be covered in the bumper to bumper warranty.

[be_ha]

haha funny story, when we first took it in it was 50 k over 60,000. I wasn't too stoked to hear that.

B

[be_ha]

HOLLAH!

so it worked!

I went up to step 9 and entered REWRITE MODE (turned the key twice).

After that the locks closed and opened and the key started working again, I didn't have to do any of the other steps afterwards.

thanks again CTSCOTT your contribution is greatly appreciated!

B

[valkyrie22]

Hi there,

I found this thread because I am currently troubleshooting my own keyless entry remote problem on my 2007 Yaris S Sedan. I actually have 2 problems happened at the same time and I am thinking they are related, perhaps?

Problem 1: Keyless remote transmitter LED lights up (not a dead battery) but doors will not lock/unlock in response. I thought, no big deal, manually unlock by using the key in the door (gasp! haha). But THEN, I turned the ignition and started driving off and wondered why is is darn quiet?? Where are my tunes??

Problem 2: Stereo (factory) won't power on at all. Nada. Zip. Zilch. UGH, I need my music.



Step 1- So I checked the fuse box under the dash near the driver's knee area. No blown fuses. All looks good.

Step 2- Called the Toyota Dealership Service Department. Got quoted $95 just to diagnose the problem- does not include additional parts and labor for the actual repair. I was told my basic warranty expires 3mos/30kmi whichever came first. I am at 56k miles in less than 3 years because my Yaris is my commuter car (work is 100mi/day round trip).

Step 3- Searched Google for help, found this thread. Followed CTScott's most excellent post to check my keyless remote problem. During CONFIRMATION MODE of the test he described above, I got no response from the power locks that was suppose to happen in Step #9. The power locks never cycled "lock" to "unlock" any number of times to correspond to my key cycles (3 times for Confirmation). I got nada. Bad receiver, I conclude, right? That's bad news for me. ($$)

I came back inside, hopped on the computer, and am praying someone has an idea. I assume perhaps there is maybe a common relay that's causing my keyless remote/power door receiver AND my stereo to have failed at the same time. Maybe?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if it's a DIY fix or not. If I have to save some money and let the dealship fix it after budgeting the expense, so be it. It would be nice to have some input to the service department folks. You know how it is when a women walks in to repair shop... next thing I know, I'm paying for service on my transmission fluids, differentials, belts and everything else under the hood when all I really want is my radio to turn on!

Thanks in advance,
Viv

[CTScott]

The radio receives power from two fused circuits - DOME (located in the under hood fuse panel) and ACC (located in the fuse panel under the bottom of the dash). The Door Control Receiver also uses the DOME circuit for power, so I would really check that fuse.

[valkyrie22]

The radio receives power from two fused circuits - DOME (located in the under hood fuse panel) and ACC (located in the fuse panel under the bottom of the dash). The Door Control Receiver also uses the DOME circuit for power, so I would really check that fuse.

Thank you CTScott. I didn't think of the under hood fuse panel, just the interior under dash one.

It was a blown 15amp fuse in the under hood fuse panel. Grabbed the spare 15a fuse stored in the same box.

Keyless remote is locking and unlocking the doors again (getting the flashing signal lights, too) and my stereo once again is rocking the tunes.

Simple fix. Thanks again CTScott.

[adgkmgplus2]

CTScott - this worked for me too. We took our yaris to the toyota dealer and were told the whole system needed replaced at a cost of $200. I then came home and searched the wonderful web and found this. Just like be_ha, it worked. Saved us $200. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep this for future reference.

[lucwsc]

Hi all,

I just import a Vitz RS from Japan (2006) Keyless with immobilizer. I'm getting annoyed with the immobilizer vocal warning every time i open or close the door (especially the vocal warning is in Japanese). Does any one know how to turn off the vocal warning and configure it on silent mode please?

Thanks a lot guys.

[RUFFSTUFF]

CTScott - this worked for me too. We took our yaris to the toyota dealer and were told the whole system needed replaced at a cost of $200. I then came home and searched the wonderful web and found this. Just like be_ha, it worked. Saved us $200. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep this for future reference.



Don't forget to throw it in your dealer's face...!

[gilliganberry]

Just read your instructions to fix the remote key and it didn't work for me. BUT a friend suggested to take off the positive cable off the battery for about 60 seconds and then reconnect. Voila it worked. It was sort of rebooting the computer.

[auxmike]

Good stuff, glad to see so many benefiting from this procedure!
I don't have keyless:)

[technoguy]

Exactly same as bee_ha happened to my Vitz 2005,I thought it was thd battery though lights were glowing on remote, battery arrived today but no luck,searched and found this thread, followed the re write procedure posted by CTScott and it worked!! Thanks a lot. Can anyone tell md why this happened? There must be a reason and also if someone can explain the meaning of other modes in the reset procedure CONFIRMATION & PROHIBITION. Thankssss

[estee]

CTScott, You are a gem! Thanks a lot!!

Just used the procedure to get things working again with the car key.
My car key battery went dead after about 5 years. Took me a while to replace the dead battery and was using the key physically to open and close the door for a while. Replaced the battery in the key CR2016, but did not work, even though the light in the key blinked. So followed your instructions, I had selected 3 - Confirmation at step 7. there was a response after step 8 - that was very encouraging.
I went back and tried the "2 - rewrite" mode, but it did not work for me. Then tried "1 - Add" option at step 8. And this worked. Each time the number of lock - unlock cycles was different - may be that means something - don't know - and I failed to count.
Anyway, choosing option 1 worked. So very happy and wanted to say thank you.
Cheers

[olraccf]

Thank you CTScott, you helped me fix my keyless entry! More power!

[impauler]

Remote randomly stopped working--- now fixed. Thank you CTScott!!

The dealership told me the transmitter was broken after a quick test and battery change. They quoted me $200 for a new transmitter, and $100 to "reprogram" it.. $300 fix..

I printed off your instructions and 90 seconds later, working perfectly again!

Huge money saver :thumbsup:

[ddeschen]

Just read your instructions to fix the remote key and it didn't work for me. BUT a friend suggested to take off the positive cable off the battery for about 60 seconds and then reconnect. Voila it worked. It was sort of rebooting the computer.
Worked for me too and took 2minutes!

[enyajtrebor]

We have a keyless 1.3 T Spirt (UK) and the door locking cycles about 5 times before it will unlock the door. also the offside rear door won't unlock at all. I assume this may be conected

Any ideas please

[CTScott]

We have a keyless 1.3 T Spirt (UK) and the door locking cycles about 5 times before it will unlock the door. also the offside rear door won't unlock at all. I assume this may be conected

Any ideas please

Sounds like you have some mechanical issues with that rear lock. Replacing or unbinding it will likely solve the cycling issue as well.

[screenprintr]

All, read each post about this situation.

We just bought a 2010 Yaris. It came with two regular keys. Noticed a flashing red light on the dash board. It looked to me like it's for an alarm.

My key, I believe the manual says is called a Type B (Non-Keyless). Anyone know where I can get the proper Keyless Keys and/or how to verify I have a keyless system.

We do have power windows and locks. Also noticed that I have a Tach. Read on another post that this was as issue. Is it only for older Yaris'?

Thank you in advance. Hoping I can add the Keyless system to our car at the lowest price possible.

Paul

[CTScott]

All, read each post about this situation.

We just bought a 2010 Yaris. It came with two regular keys. Noticed a flashing red light on the dash board. It looked to me like it's for an alarm.

My key, I believe the manual says is called a Type B (Non-Keyless). Anyone know where I can get the proper Keyless Keys and/or how to verify I have a keyless system.

We do have power windows and locks. Also noticed that I have a Tach. Read on another post that this was as issue. Is it only for older Yaris'?

Thank you in advance. Hoping I can add the Keyless system to our car at the lowest price possible.

Paul

The flashing light is the engine immobilizer (which is the system with the RFID transponder in the key).

You can check with a Toyota dealership (or PM me your VIN) to see if the car was built with the keyless entry. Chances are that it was not, since you received normal keys. Upgrading a non-keyless one with OEM parts is crazy expensive (over $300 just for the parts required). Your best bet, if it doesn't have keyless, is to add an aftermarket keyless entry system. The one that I installed on my 09 (which had power, but not keyless) was less than $70 and is also remote start.

[screenprintr]

Thank you Scott.

What do you mean by, your Aftermarket had Power, but no keyless? What is the brand name.

I'm at work now, but will check the VIN after work and send it to you. Thank you for your help.

Paul

[CTScott]

Thank you Scott.

What do you mean by, your Aftermarket had Power, but no keyless? What is the brand name.

I'm at work now, but will check the VIN after work and send it to you. Thank you for your help.

Paul

I meant that my 09 Yaris came with power locks and windows, but without keyless entry, so I added keyless entry/remote start myself. I bought an UltraStart XR1280, which is still working perfectly, 4 years later.

I just installed a super cheap Avistar keyless entry unit on my 08 Yaris (which I also added power locks and windows to), and that unit works fine, but doesn't have the range of the UltraStart.

[japle]

Scott, it is possible to order an oem keyless for 300? If so, i am so going for it.

[CTScott]

Scott, it is possible to order an oem keyless for 300? If so, i am so going for it.

It actually would be quite a bit more than that. I recently acquired an OEM keyless entry receiver to experiment with and found that besides it, the Body ECU has to be replaced with one that supports keyless entry (and the body ECU is within the under dash fuse panel).

[japle]

Hmmm... sounds like the whole nine yards to me that has to be replaced.

[japle]

I recently sourced a keyless systems from singapore that cost bout 600 singaporean dollars. Now if i could just find that darn email.

Aha! Its singtech systems, anyone heard or actually used it before? If not i am going to be the test subject.

[Shinare]

It actually would be quite a bit more than that. I recently acquired an OEM keyless entry receiver to experiment with and found that besides it, the Body ECU has to be replaced with one that supports keyless entry (and the body ECU is within the under dash fuse panel).

Sending u a pm on this.

[Wishy]

Hi all,

I seem to be having some troubles with my drivers door (Factory) key-less entry.

It's an 08 2 door hatch, when ever I use the remote it will lock or unlock the passenger and hatch doors but nothing happens in the drivers door. Can't hear it do anything inside the door.

I tried the procedure posted by CTScott and it didn't fix, Dome fuse is fine which I expected.

I can use the key to enter, but I'm super lazy and I'm starting to get over it and the dealership just wants to take my money.

Any help appreciated.

[CTScott]

Hi all,

I seem to be having some troubles with my drivers door (Factory) key-less entry.

It's an 08 2 door hatch, when ever I use the remote it will lock or unlock the passenger and hatch doors but nothing happens in the drivers door. Can't hear it do anything inside the door.

I tried the procedure posted by CTScott and it didn't fix, Dome fuse is fine which I expected.

I can use the key to enter, but I'm super lazy and I'm starting to get over it and the dealership just wants to take my money.

Any help appreciated.



In your case with just that one door not working, you are looking at either a bad lock actuator or a damaged wire leading to it.

[finnpoulsen]

Thanks a million CTScoot!
Had to go through the procedure a couple of times until i realized that the door had to stay open between some of the steps

[CTScott]

Hi,



I just bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris liftback...



I have a remote car starter but the lock/unlock function doesn't work. It makes the lights flash but it doesn't unlock the doors.



I have tried to reprogram it by following CTScott's post, but the doors dont lock/unlock at the end of the procedure.



Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Kim


Do you have a separate remote for the remote starter and the genuine Toyota keyless entry remote?

[CTScott]

I have only one remote and it's not a genuine Toyota keyless entry remote (FCC ID : EZSNAH1501).

Do you think they could have only installed the remote car starter and "forgot" or purposely decided not to install the lock/unlock feature? Cuz when I press on that button it makes the car lights flash instead of locking/unlocking the doors.

First off, if it is not a genuine Toyota remote, the procedure above would never work.

It is very possible/likely that they did not hook up the lock/unlock. Does your car have power locks?

[CTScott]

Yes it does

OK. In that case I would pop open the cover under the steering wheel and see if you can find the module for the remote starter to see what is and is not connected to it.

[CTScott]

Here are the photos :

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101260892190491869509/albums/6139429257061888993/6139429256712810498?pid=6139429256712810498&oid=101260892190491869509

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101260892190491869509/albums/6139429257061888993/6139434077990560578?pid=6139434077990560578&oid=101260892190491869509

Does this look like a remote car starter module?

That is definitely it. Now you need to find the make and read the model number off it, then you can find the manual for it and see what wires are for the lock/unlock.

[nortonfb]

This may help and here is a recall on that model.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM458681/RCDNN-14E045-5133P.pdf

[CTScott]

I cant find the brand name on the module.
Here's a photo of what I see :
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101260892190491869509/albums/6139429257061888993/6139457331004710114?pid=6139457331004710114&oid=101260892190491869509

Unfortunately with these information I cant find any manual!

It is definitely an AutoStart brand one, bu the OB-2481 model number does not seem to be a current one. You could try calling them to see if they can give you any info on it:

http://autostart.ca/AboutUs.aspx

[island_Vitz]

nvm

[Clintondmb]

Had this happen recently. Ended up pulling the battery cable and that corrected the issue. Probably the airbag recall was the last time the cable was taken loose about eight years ago. I have a ten year old optima in there.