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Old 08-03-2009, 11:29 AM   #1
be_ha
 
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keyless entry broken?

Hey all,

I've got an 07 liftback, have had it for almost exactly 2 years now. Just last week the key less entry stopped working. It's not the aftermarket kind it came with the car (unlock/lock are part of the key).

Has this happened to anyone else after such a short amount of time? It's definitely not the battery as I replace it (and the little red light keeps going off when I hit a button) so I'm thinking it may be the receiver unit in the car.

Are there any fuses I could possibly check before bringing it into the dealership to get it looked at? Any other thoughts?

TIA

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Old 08-03-2009, 11:52 AM   #2
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if you are sure its the keyless, and not a dead battery in your remote.... then the most likely culprit is a malfunctioning relay or actuator in the door. Sometimes relays will burn out... sometimes actuators will get stuck in place. Relays cost less than $5, actuators should be less than $25.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:20 PM   #3
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Do you have more than one of the key remotes, and if so, do they both not work?

The door control receiver gets its power via the DOME fuse, which is in the under hood fuse panel. If it was popped, the light wouldn't turn on when you open your door, and the map lights wouldn't work.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:48 PM   #4
be_ha
 
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crapola,

I only have the one power key (and a seperate regular key). So I can't test with another one. aaaaaaaaaaand the dome light definitely works (just had it on last night when the door was open) so I guess it can't be the fuse.

The dealership wants 25 beans just to hook it up to the diagnostic computer to see what the culprit is. ugh that's frustrating on a 2 year old car. I bought this thing so I wouldn't have to go through this :P

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Old 08-03-2009, 04:54 PM   #5
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I have the info on how to make the system "learn" a new key. When I am back in my office this evening, I'll post it for you and you can give that a try.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:14 PM   #6
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Try the following procedure, selecting "confirmation mode" which will make the system indicate how many remotes it is programmed for. Basically, that will tell you if the receiver is alive. If it responds, then try re-adding your key remote. If that doesn't work, then the key remote is the problem.



Programming To Program Wireless Remote Transmitters:
Procedure

Begin with:

The driver’s door open and unlocked.
Key out of the ignition.
1. Insert and remove the key from the ignition switch 2 times within 5 seconds.

NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 should be performed within 40 seconds.

2. Close and open driver’s door TWICE.
3. Insert the key into the ignition and remove it.

NOTE: Steps 4 – 6 should be performed within 40 seconds.

4. Close and open the driver’s door twice.
5. Insert the key into the ignition.
6. Close the door.
7. Turn the ignition switch from “Lock” to “On” and back to “Lock” at about 1 second
intervals to select the desired mode:

-1 time for ADD mode.

-2 times for REWRITE mode.

-3 times for CONFIRMATION mode.

-5 times for PROHIBITION mode.

8. Remove the key from the ignition.
9. To confirm your mode selection, the power locks will now cycle “lock” to “unlock” a
number of times corresponding to your key cycles in step 7.


NOTE: If Confirmation or Prohibition modes have been selected, opening the door will
complete the procedure.

10. For Add or Rewrite modes do the following within 40 seconds of Door
Lock confirmation:

A. Press both transmitter Lock and Unlock buttons simultaneously between 1 and
1.5 seconds and release.

B. Within 3 seconds of step A, press the transmitter Lock button for more than 1
second and release.

If the transmitter has been successfully programmed, the power locks will
cycle “lock” to “unlock” once at this time.

If there are problems with the transmitter or the procedure up to this point, the
locks will cycle twice. If this occurs, verify that you have received the correct
transmitter, and then repeat the above procedure.

C. If multiple remotes are to be reprogrammed, repeat steps A and B.

11. Open the driver’s door to conclude programming mode.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:21 PM   #7
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Wow thanks ctscott!

I'll give it a go tomorrow, this is huge!

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Old 08-04-2009, 08:45 AM   #8
IllusionX
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2 years old yaris... if less than 60,000km it's still under warranty. they have no right to charge you for the diagnostic and repairs. It should be covered in the bumper to bumper warranty.
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:13 PM   #9
be_ha
 
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haha funny story, when we first took it in it was 50 k over 60,000. I wasn't too stoked to hear that.

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Old 08-11-2009, 03:44 PM   #10
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HOLLAH!

so it worked!

I went up to step 9 and entered REWRITE MODE (turned the key twice).

After that the locks closed and opened and the key started working again, I didn't have to do any of the other steps afterwards.

thanks again CTSCOTT your contribution is greatly appreciated!

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Old 08-28-2009, 04:05 PM   #11
valkyrie22
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Hi there,

I found this thread because I am currently troubleshooting my own keyless entry remote problem on my 2007 Yaris S Sedan. I actually have 2 problems happened at the same time and I am thinking they are related, perhaps?

Problem 1: Keyless remote transmitter LED lights up (not a dead battery) but doors will not lock/unlock in response. I thought, no big deal, manually unlock by using the key in the door (gasp! haha). But THEN, I turned the ignition and started driving off and wondered why is is darn quiet?? Where are my tunes??

Problem 2: Stereo (factory) won't power on at all. Nada. Zip. Zilch. UGH, I need my music.



Step 1- So I checked the fuse box under the dash near the driver's knee area. No blown fuses. All looks good.

Step 2- Called the Toyota Dealership Service Department. Got quoted $95 just to diagnose the problem- does not include additional parts and labor for the actual repair. I was told my basic warranty expires 3mos/30kmi whichever came first. I am at 56k miles in less than 3 years because my Yaris is my commuter car (work is 100mi/day round trip).

Step 3- Searched Google for help, found this thread. Followed CTScott's most excellent post to check my keyless remote problem. During CONFIRMATION MODE of the test he described above, I got no response from the power locks that was suppose to happen in Step #9. The power locks never cycled "lock" to "unlock" any number of times to correspond to my key cycles (3 times for Confirmation). I got nada. Bad receiver, I conclude, right? That's bad news for me. ($$)

I came back inside, hopped on the computer, and am praying someone has an idea. I assume perhaps there is maybe a common relay that's causing my keyless remote/power door receiver AND my stereo to have failed at the same time. Maybe?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if it's a DIY fix or not. If I have to save some money and let the dealship fix it after budgeting the expense, so be it. It would be nice to have some input to the service department folks. You know how it is when a women walks in to repair shop... next thing I know, I'm paying for service on my transmission fluids, differentials, belts and everything else under the hood when all I really want is my radio to turn on!

Thanks in advance,
Viv
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:34 PM   #12
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The radio receives power from two fused circuits - DOME (located in the under hood fuse panel) and ACC (located in the fuse panel under the bottom of the dash). The Door Control Receiver also uses the DOME circuit for power, so I would really check that fuse.
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The radio receives power from two fused circuits - DOME (located in the under hood fuse panel) and ACC (located in the fuse panel under the bottom of the dash). The Door Control Receiver also uses the DOME circuit for power, so I would really check that fuse.
Thank you CTScott. I didn't think of the under hood fuse panel, just the interior under dash one.

It was a blown 15amp fuse in the under hood fuse panel. Grabbed the spare 15a fuse stored in the same box.

Keyless remote is locking and unlocking the doors again (getting the flashing signal lights, too) and my stereo once again is rocking the tunes.

Simple fix. Thanks again CTScott.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:09 AM   #14
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Fix broken keyless remote

CTScott - this worked for me too. We took our yaris to the toyota dealer and were told the whole system needed replaced at a cost of $200. I then came home and searched the wonderful web and found this. Just like be_ha, it worked. Saved us $200. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep this for future reference.
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Old 09-13-2009, 12:28 PM   #15
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Setting Immobilizer on "Silent Mode"

Hi all,

I just import a Vitz RS from Japan (2006) Keyless with immobilizer. I'm getting annoyed with the immobilizer vocal warning every time i open or close the door (especially the vocal warning is in Japanese). Does any one know how to turn off the vocal warning and configure it on silent mode please?

Thanks a lot guys.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgkmgplus2 View Post
CTScott - this worked for me too. We took our yaris to the toyota dealer and were told the whole system needed replaced at a cost of $200. I then came home and searched the wonderful web and found this. Just like be_ha, it worked. Saved us $200. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep this for future reference.


Don't forget to throw it in your dealer's face...!
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:10 PM   #17
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Remote Key Issues

Just read your instructions to fix the remote key and it didn't work for me. BUT a friend suggested to take off the positive cable off the battery for about 60 seconds and then reconnect. Voila it worked. It was sort of rebooting the computer.
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:35 PM   #18
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Good stuff, glad to see so many benefiting from this procedure!
I don't have keyless:)
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