DIY Cruise Control FAQ (2006-2010 Yaris)

[CTScott]

There are many threads regarding DIY cruise control. The purpose of this one is to centralize all of the information.

By DIY Cruise Control, I am referring to using the functionality built into the US and Canadian Yaris' ECM, as opposed to installing a 3rd party cruise control system. All US and Canadian Yaris (2006+) have this capability built into the ECM. Thus far we have found that European and Australian Yaris do not.

The following chart details the scope based on year, transmission type, and DIY method. For methods, one may choose to purchase the Toyota OEM Cruise Control stalk (which mounts to the right side of the steering wheel) or to do the DIY switch method (which uses low cost push button switches and resistors to achieve the same functionality as the OEM stalk).

31452


Part Numbers:

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk: 84632-34011

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk Wire (Required to connect the stalk to the spiral cable, within the steering wheel): 84633-42030 or 84633-02020 (this new PN has replaced the other)

Lower Steering wheel cover (with the hole already in it for the cruise stalk):45184-52130-B0

ECM repair terminal (Used to add the connection to pin 40 of connector A21 of the ECM on Yaris where "wiring to the ECM" is required - Quantity 1 required): 82998-24250

Spiral Connector Repair Terminals (Used to add the two pins to the steering column end of the spiral cable on Yaris where "Extra pins to the spiral cable" is required - Quantity 2 required): 82998-12870

Cruise Control Clutch Switch (Required for all Manual Transmission Yaris): 88280-14030


Here is my complete installation guide for installing cruise control on any 2006-2011 US/Canada/PR Yaris with the OEM Cruise Control Stalk:

http://tinyurl.com/CruiseDIY


Threads with specific information / DIYs:

1. The original thread where we discussed if this could be done and made the discovery that it could:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16188&highlight=cruise+module+%2425

2. My DIY for the 2 or 4 switch method. This thread details what is required to assemble the DIY switches and connection of them to the spiral cable connector on 2009+ Yaris, which have the wiring in place from the ECM to the steering column.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17158&highlight=diy+cruise

3. Vince87's DIY for 07-08 (really 06-08) detailing the ECM pin connection and clutch switch installation using the 2 or 4 switch method:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=cruise+module+%2425

4. PeteZNY's DIY for installing the OEM stalk. This thread details pulling the airbag to install the OEM stalk on an 09:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23510&highlight=cruise+control

5. A link to a post detailing my Cruise Control Indicator Module, which provides a visual indicator that cruise control is on for Yaris which don't have an indicator on the cluster:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=402815&postcount=67

6. A DIY that I put together that shows how to disconnect the ECM connector an how to install the pin in position 40 of connector A21:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444

7. I have some stalks with the wire and mounting screws for sale (I also have a couple of the cruise control clutch switches, required for MT cars):
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32442

8. I also have some of the repair pins for the ECM connector and the steering column connector:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31763


The combination of the material in the above threads covers everything required from the chart above. You may have to use parts from more than one to cover your particular installation.


FAQs not covered above:

Where can I get the OEM stalk? From a Toyota dealer, eBay or junkyards. The stalk for the Yaris is also used on the following Vehicles:
Camry 04-09
ES300 04-09
Scion TC 04-09
Sequoia 04-09
4Runner 04-09
Corolla 08-09
ES350 06-09
FJ 06, 08
GS450H 06-09
GX470 04-09
Highlander 04-09
IS F 07-09
IS250 05-09
Land Cruiser 04-09
LX470 04-09
LX570 07-09
Prius 04-09
RAV4 04-09
RX330 04-09
RX400H 05-09
Scion xB 07-09
Scion xD 07-09
Tundra 04-09

The stalk wire is also used on the following vehicles:
Corolla 08-09
RAV4 05-08

[goku87]

So far this is the cheapest place I could find it:
http://www.google.com/products?q=airtex%201s5850

$14.62 + S&H
---------------------------
Various shipping rates at the time of writing (basically $7.49 for CONUS):
AK - Anchorage (99501) . . . . $9.84
CO - Denver (80002) . . . . . . .$7.49
CA - Los Angeles (90001) . . . $7.49
FL - Tampa (33601) . . . . . . . .$7.49
MO - Kansas City (64101) . . . $6.13
NY - New York (10001) . . . . . .$7.49
WA - Spokane (99201) . . . . . .$7.49

[127.0.0.1]

Super Nifty DIY 4 position switch for the resistor method

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9485541


where I installed mine
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403482&postcount=187

[swidd]

The clutch switch for Manual Transmission sells for $22.70 + tax at my local Toyota Dealer Parts Department. That should come out to the same, or less than, the above quoted $17 + shipping.

Also, Radio Shack, Lowe's, Home Depot and SEARS do NOT carry any four-way switches.

[fcharlan]

Hi everybody, I have a Canadian 2007 Yaris and was wondering if someone from Canada tried the DIY Cruise control on their vehicle? I read that the ECM might not be compatible.
Thanks
Dan

[CTScott]

Hi everybody, I have a Canadian 2007 Yaris and was wondering if someone from Canada tried the DIY Cruise control on their vehicle? I read that the ECM might not be compatible.
Thanks
Dan

Canadian ECM's are fine. I am aware of a least a couple of people from Canada who have added DIY CC.

[fcharlan]

Canadian ECM's are fine. I am aware of a least a couple of people from Canada who have added DIY CC.

Thanks a lot for the info. I will try it.:thumbup:

[carlosgil5]

Guys I really want to do this, I just bought a 2010 AT Mexican Yaris from the local dealer, but I don´t know if there´s any difference between mexican, american or canadian yaris. Am really close to the Arizona Border so I can easily buy the required parts but am afraid my ECM is not compatible, any ideas?

[CTScott]

Guys I really want to do this, I just bought a 2010 AT Mexican Yaris from the local dealer, but I don´t know if there´s any difference between mexican, american or canadian yaris. Am really close to the Arizona Border so I can easily buy the required parts but am afraid my ECM is not compatible, any ideas?

Mexican Yaris get a different ECM than US and Canadian ones, so you would definitely have to test it to see. The place to start is to measure the voltage on the ECM pin 40, with the ignition in the on position. If you see 12 Volts on that pin, then there's a good chance that it will work.

If you shine a flashlight around on your instrument cluster, do you see the two icons for cruise control?

[carlosgil5]

Ok, thanks for the info CTScott, am gonna check voltage and instrument cluster before start buying stuff ...So many things to do with this yaris.:thumbup:

[cpchri1]

Hi CTScott -

I have an auto 2010 Yaris 5 door hatch (U.S.) with the power package, I have the CC lamps on my speedometer counsel (unlit at this time), and want to put in the DIY CC. In your post you reference the following part numbers:

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk: 84632-34011
Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk Wire (Required to connect the stalk to the spiral cable, within the steering wheel): 84633-42030
Lower Steering wheel cover (with the hole already in it for the cruise stalk):45184-52130-B0

However you also reference PeteZNY post (2009 Yaris 3 door hatch with power package) and he references the following part numbers:

84632-08021 Cruise control switch
84633-02020 Cruise switch wire
90159-50199 Screws (2)

But I'm confused??? What parts should I order?

Thanks!

CPCHRI1 Eastern WA State

2010 Yaris - Added OEM RS3200 Security System, OEM Ipod connector, OEM Bluetooth
2009 Matrix - Added OEM RS3200 Security System, OEM Ipod connector, OEM Bluetooth
2009 Camry - Don't own techstream so had dealer tech add Security System, OEM Bluetooth (note: Toy tech messed it up RS3200 security install)
1985 Toyota PU 22R (w/ LC Engineering timing case conversion kit and hardened OH Cam)

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott -

I have an auto 2010 Yaris 5 door hatch (U.S.) with the power package, I have the CC lamps on my speedometer counsel (unlit at this time), and want to put in the DIY CC. In your post you reference the following part numbers:

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk: 84632-34011
Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk Wire (Required to connect the stalk to the spiral cable, within the steering wheel): 84633-42030
Lower Steering wheel cover (with the hole already in it for the cruise stalk):45184-52130-B0

However you also reference PeteZNY post (2009 Yaris 3 door hatch with power package) and he references the following part numbers:

84632-08021 Cruise control switch
84633-02020 Cruise switch wire
90159-50199 Screws (2)

But I'm confused??? What parts should I order?

Thanks!

CPCHRI1 Eastern WA State

2010 Yaris - Added OEM RS3200 Security System, OEM Ipod connector, OEM Bluetooth
2009 Matrix - Added OEM RS3200 Security System, OEM Ipod connector, OEM Bluetooth
2009 Camry - Don't own techstream so had dealer tech add Security System, OEM Bluetooth (note: Toy tech messed it up RS3200 security install)
1985 Toyota PU 22R (w/ LC Engineering timing case conversion kit and hardened OH Cam)



The EPC shows the 84633-02020 cable as being for the Corolla or Matrix, whereas 84633-42030 is for the Yaris and RAV4.

It shows the 84632-08021 stalk as being for a bunch of cars, not including the Yaris, where as 84632-34011 is shown for a bunch including the Yaris.

Apparently, in these two cases the parts not listed for the Yaris do work with the Yaris as well.

The screws are needed. The lower steering column cover is optional. You can either drill a hole for the stalk, or buy the lower cover with the hole already in it.

[dingbat]

Just did this mod today on my '10, 3door, base trim.

Soooo very easy and way cheaper than what the dealer wanted for an aftermarket setup at time of sale!

Thanks to everyone who put all the info together!:bow::thumbsup:

[sk8manmike]

I think I'm going to make a video DIY for this mod since it seems to be so popular. I just wanted to make sure that no one else has already made one - I don't want to be THAT guy :thumbsup:

[cpchri1]

Well there have been a few questions on this thread about drilling a hole or ordering a new wheel cover with the factory OEM hole. I just did this job but buying the new OEM cover instead of drilling so I decided to post some pictures of the OEM look and steps to do so. I have a 5 door hatch 2010 Yaris USA with the Power Package. This is not the least expensive way to do this job but it is OEM. It might look complicated to do but it's actually a pretty easy job with the right tools (you will need a steering wheel puller-borrow one or buy one at harbor freight for about $10). So here are the OEM parts that I used referenced in the threads posted by CTScott and PeteZNY and verified to work on my 2010 Yaris Hatch:

84632-08021 Cruise Control Engagement Switch (refered to as 'control stalk' in other posts)
84633-02020 Cruise Control Switch Wire
90159-50199 Screws (order quantity of 2)
45184-52130-BO Cover Steering Wheel (comes with the hole already in it for the cruise switch)

My cost for these new parts at the dealer were $120 US dollars. Note: I have an automatic transmission but if you have a manual transmission you'll also need the clutch switch.

One very reliable place to get these and other Toyota parts on line in the US is at:

http://www.toyotapartscheap.com/

This is a dealer in San Diego, CA (I have no affiliation with this dealer).

Steps:

1. Follow directions in PeteZNY's DIY for Airbag removal:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23510&highlight=cruise+control

Just a couple of notes: The 2010 model uses a 30T Torx bolt to remove the airbag. Also what wasn't originally clear to me is the original horn wire and how the new switch wire connects. To clarify, the original horn wire you'll remove is a single wire in a 4 WIRE FEMALE CONNECTOR. This is removed from the spiral cable (PeteZNY calls this a "clock spring assembly"). When you install the new control wire switch the 3 wire female plug will go to the new cruise switch, you'll have a 4 WIRE FEMALE CONNECTOR that will plug back into the spiral cable where you unplugged the horn wire connector, and you'll have one wire for connecting the horn when you put the airbag back.

2. After disconnecting the main battery power, airbag, airbag wires and horn wire and setting the airbag aside, to install a new cover with the OEM hole, you'll remove the center nut and remove the wheel with a steering wheel puller. Make sure to bench mark the shaft pieces (I used a sharpie) so you'll put it back together the same. The thread holes for the steering wheel puller are 8mm x.1.25 on the 2010 Yaris.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3336/4631188946_bbbbcf55e0.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3336/4631188946_bbbbcf55e0.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4630584861_0f8425cd53.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4630584861_0f8425cd53.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4630586593_af1dd641b9.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4630586593_af1dd641b9.jpg
3. Once you remove the wheel assembly from the car find a safe and clean place to remove the wheel from the old cover by removing the two small screws in the photo. The old cover (that some people are drilling) will pull off by lifting the release fingers at the bottom of the cover. After you get it off make sure you then remove the two torx bolts that are used to hold the airbag on.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/4630589977_40ef4f22e6.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/4630589977_40ef4f22e6.jpg
Here are some photos of the 45184-52130-BO Cover Steering Wheel:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4630589883_b167a4d982.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/4630589883_b167a4d982.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/4631187304_10dcfa8dc6.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/4631187304_10dcfa8dc6.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/4630588259_b8c3450e02.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/4630588259_b8c3450e02.jpg
4. Reassemble. The Torque valve for the steering wheel center nut is 37 ft lbs or 50 N-m. The 30T torx bolts are 78 in lbs or 8.8.

5. For those who might want to know the new OEM cover hole is approximately 30 mm x 30 mm square.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/4630588407_ea8038bdf9.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/4630588407_ea8038bdf9.jpg
6. See CTScott and PeteZNY for additional assembly instructions.

Thanks especially to CTScott for your assistance - I really appreciated you taking the time to personally assist me in this effort and for making the summary post on this topic to begin with!

cpchri1

[ricepower]

Is the Instrument Cluster for 09-10 model is bolt-on to 06-08 model? Goal is to have my yaris '07 model with CC indicator on Instrument panel

[CTScott]

Is the Instrument Cluster for 09-10 model is bolt-on to 06-08 model? Goal is to have my yaris '07 model with CC indicator on Instrument panel

The newer cluster will work on the previous years, but I don't believe that the cruise control indicators will work, as the ECM has to send the message via CAN bus to the cluster to light up the indicator. From experimentation that I have done, I have noticed that an 07 ECM doesn't send the asynchronous message to the cluster when cruise control is activated.

[CTScott]

Is the Instrument Cluster for 09-10 model is bolt-on to 06-08 model? Goal is to have my yaris '07 model with CC indicator on Instrument panel

Also, I am about 90% sure that your car will not have the cruise control functionality built into its ECM, since it seems to be just USDM cars that have it.

[ricepower]

Also, I am about 90% sure that your car will not have the cruise control functionality built into its ECM, since it seems to be just USDM cars that have it.

With your experience, will you please add your earlier post the P/N's of ECM with CC functionality :thumbsup:

[CTScott]

With your experience, will you please add your earlier post the P/N's of ECM with CC functionality :thumbsup:

89661-52F10
89661-52F11
89661-52F11
89661-52G30
89661-52G50
89661-52G50
89661-52G51
89661-52F01
89661-52G40
89661-52G40
89661-52G30
89661-52G41
89661-52E90
89661-52E91
89661-52J50
89661-52J40
89661-52J30

[ricepower]

Moderators, pls have this thread sticky! please ...

89661-52F10
89661-52F11
89661-52F11
89661-52G30
89661-52G50
89661-52G50
89661-52G51
89661-52F01
89661-52G40
89661-52G40
89661-52G30
89661-52G41
89661-52E90
89661-52E91
89661-52J50
89661-52J40
89661-52J30

[Saggio]

Who has done this on an 08 USDM Liftback and it worked?

[johnliu38]

I wodner if I can do the same trick on my Taiwanese version of 2010 Yaris Hatch Back because I heard its ECM has built-in cruise control function, but got locked. Some people charge US$250 for hacking the ECM and enable the CC function... Not sure if it's really locked or not... Is there anyway I can do to identify the CC function of my Yaris?

[CTScott]

I wodner if I can do the same trick on my Taiwanese version of 2010 Yaris Hatch Back because I heard its ECM has built-in cruise control function, but got locked. Some people charge US$250 for hacking the ECM and enable the CC function... Not sure if it's really locked or not... Is there anyway I can do to identify the CC function of my Yaris?

Check to see if you have the two wires on the steering column for cruise (and the two cruise control icons on the cluster). If they are there, then you can do a real quick test by grounding the blue wire (with the ignition on) and the cruise control on icon should light up. If the wires aren't there, then you can check the voltage on the ECM pin 40. If there's 12V on that pin with the ignition on, then cruise is enabled, but just the wiring needs to be run.

[WolfWings]

Who has done this on an 08 USDM Liftback and it worked?

Did it on my 5-speed '07 USDM Liftback, had to run the wire to/from pin 40 on the ECM, swiped the other parts from a 5-speed '09 USDM Liftback and everything worked 'out of the box' without issue.

I ran the wire for pin 40 inside the dash along the existing cable harness across to the cabin air filter tray, the elbow joint above that is a flexible coupling gasket-ed on both sides without any locking tabs so I just ran the wire through the cabin fresh-air intake. It has some flanges on the sides in the engine bay for water drainage/catching that I routed the wire out of and over to the ECU. Take off both windshield wipers and the trim bezels all the way across.

[tforkner]

Saggio- I put the two-switch DIY type on my '08 LB. I ran the wires from the clutch switch and ECM in through the AC drain grommet. I superglued a roller switch from Radio Shack onto the metal bracket beside the clutch pedal for use as a clutch switch. Everything works fine.

[Lucas13]

Who has done this on an 08 USDM Liftback and it worked?



I did on mine the 2 Button and works perfectly, I bought the resistors and switches from radio shack and the OEM clutch switch.

This is one of the :w00t:est mods it also gives a nice touch of comfort to the yaris, Thank to CtScott that made this possible :headbang:


here are some pics

[Revsson]

Nice clean install ^ :clap:

[Lucas13]

Thanks Revsson!
I try to keep it clean as possible especially for the warranty, you never know!!!

[magnum23]

Hi, to everybody, In from Puerto Rico, Im glad that I found this great forum, full of great and interesting info about Yaris. I recently bought a used 2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan, and Im doing some great mods that I have found here in the forum, after reading for a while I decided to do the DIY Cruise Control mod on my sedan, it have oem power locks and power windows, all the wiring is in place, and the cluster have the CC symbols, I installed the oem stalk and wire, but when I tried to turn the Cruise control on, nothings happens. I swapped the stalk with the one in my wifes rav-4 and it didnt worked also, but the one I bought worked in the Rav-4, so the problem is not the stalk, or the wire. Is there any optional procedure or relay that I need to install?

Thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to see my Yaris with cruise.

[CTScott]

Hi, to everybody, In from Puerto Rico, Im glad that I found this great forum, full of great and interesting info about Yaris. I recently bought a used 2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan, and Im doing some great mods that I have found here in the forum, after reading for a while I decided to do the DIY Cruise Control mod on my sedan, it have oem power locks and power windows, all the wiring is in place, and the cluster have the CC symbols, I installed the oem stalk and wire, but when I tried to turn the Cruise control on, nothings happens. I swapped the stalk with the one in my wifes rav-4 and it didnt worked also, but the one I bought worked in the Rav-4, so the problem is not the stalk, or the wire. Is there any optional procedure or relay that I need to install?

Thanks in advance for your help, looking forward to see my Yaris with cruise.

Does it have an auto or manual transmission?

[magnum23]

It have an Auto transmission.

[CTScott]

It have an Auto transmission.

OK. I just noticed that you said that you have a 2009 Sedan and the wiring was in place. So, you had the blue and brown wires, not just the black horn wire on connector D3 (the one on the bottom of the steering column)?

[magnum23]

Yes just double checked and it have the 3 wires in place.

[CTScott]

Yes just double checked and it have the 3 wires in place.

OK - Just to triple check - We're talking about the connector next to the yellow one on the left side of this picture?

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnD3.jpg


If that's good, look at the part number on the ECM (The silver box on the passenger side of the firewall) and post it. I don't know if anyone from PR has tried the cruise mod, and I think that you might get a different version of the ECM, from what we get here.

[magnum23]

Yes that is good, mine is exactly as the picture you posted, where exactly is this part, (The silver box on the passenger side of the firewall)?

[CTScott]

Yes that is good, mine is exactly as the picture you posted, where exactly is this part, (The silver box on the passenger side of the firewall)?

Pop the hood and look to the left:


http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32498&d=1268763247

[magnum23]

Mine is 89661-52J50

[CTScott]

Mine is 89661-52J50

OK - That's the same as my 09 LB, so the ECM is fine.

Do you have a volt meter and know how to use it?

[magnum23]

I dont have one accesible right now? But why I should check? What do you think is the problem?

Thanks in advance.

[CTScott]

I dont have one accesible right now? But why I should check? What do you think is the problem?

Thanks in advance.

If you measure the voltage between the blue and brown wires (with the ignition in the on position) at the connector under the dash, you should see 12V. If you hold the on/off switch it should drop to 0V and then pop back to 12 when you release it. That's a good starting point.

[magnum23]

I will try that tomorrow morning and post the results, thanks for your help, looking forward to that cruise control!!!!

[magnum23]

I tried to get a read between the blue and brown wires with a digital multimeter, but It dont display any voltage, Im not really sure but I think Im doing it right. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter, put the knob in the VDC section, in the 20 value, and the cables the black in com, and the red in V, mA. I tried in the end of the plug and directly to the cable and nothing.
What Follows?
Thanks in advance.

[CTScott]

I tried to get a read between the blue and brown wires with a digital multimeter, but It dont display any voltage, Im not really sure but I think Im doing it right. I used a Craftsman digital multimeter, put the knob in the VDC section, in the 20 value, and the cables the black in com, and the red in V, mA. I tried in the end of the plug and directly to the cable and nothing.
What Follows?
Thanks in advance.

You have the meter setup properly. The important thing is to make sure that the metal tips of the meter probes are actually touching the metal of the connector pins. You want to go in from the side where the blue and brown wires enter the connector.

Also, make sure you have the key in the ON position when taking the measurement.

[magnum23]

Ok, I checked again and there is no voltage reading, I tried the same with another plug in the wiring and got a 12v reading, I think there is no voltage getting to the CC switch thorugh the plug.

[CTScott]

Ok, I checked again and there is no voltage reading, I tried the same with another plug in the wiring and got a 12v reading, I think there is no voltage getting to the CC switch thorugh the plug.

OK. The next thing to check is if the ECM pin is actually there for the blue cruise control wire. You can remove the connector (you press in on the gray part and then lift it to release the connector). If you look in the hole side of the connector, you will see that some holes have metal visible and others do not. Check the pin circled below (note that the connector in this photo does not have visible metal, so it is lacking the pin for cruise control):

37494

[magnum23]

I think that is the problem the pin is not there on that side.

[CTScott]

I think that is the problem the pin is not there on that side.

If that is the case, you'd need to follow the procedure on the first page for the 2008 or older Yaris to add the pin, and then run the wire from it to the blue wire. The brown should be fine, as that one is just a ground.

[magnum23]

Ok, but where does the blue wire from the switch should lead? They just cut it on the middle from the cabin to the ECM?

[CTScott]

Ok, but where does the blue wire from the switch should lead? They just cut it on the middle from the cabin to the ECM?

The wire goes from the ECM to a junction connector that is way up under the left corner of the dash. From there a second wire goes from the junction connector to the connector under the steering wheel.

[magnum23]

I will be running that wire tomorrow morning then, Do I need the special connector listed for adding the connection to the ECM or could I tested just passing the cable through the space where it goes on the black plug that goes to the ecm?
Do a regular cable connector works? ( the little square ones)
Thanks for your help!!!

[CTScott]

I will be running that wire tomorrow morning then, Do I need the special connector listed for adding the connection to the ECM or could I tested just passing the cable through the space where it goes on the black plug that goes to the ecm?
Do a regular cable connector works? ( the little square ones)
Thanks for your help!!!

You definitely want to get one of the real pins for permanent installation, but you can try the "shove a wire in" method for testing. I wouldn't try any other type of pin, as if it gets stuck you'll have a real mess.

[magnum23]

Thanks for your real fast reply, I will try the wire method tomorrow, and order the special pin from the local dealer tomorrow. I will post if it works.

[magnum23]

Update:

I did the wiring, but the cruise control icon is not showing up in the cluster, but I did what you told before, to measure the volt, and now is getting the 12 volt, and when I press the On/Off bottom on the stalk the volt drop to 0.1

[CTScott]

Update:

I did the wiring, but the cruise control icon is not showing up in the cluster, but I did what you told before, to measure the volt, and now is getting the 12 volt, and when I press the On/Off bottom on the stalk the volt drop to 0.1

Now that you are seeing the correct voltage, have you tried it on the road to see if it works (even though the cluster doesn't light)? If that works, then check the part number on the back of your cluster.

[magnum23]

Ok, I did a road test and is working, but for some reason is not showing it on the cluster, and it have the light for it, the cluster part number is 83800-52S10
157540-8052

Thanks in advance.

[CTScott]

Ok, I did a road test and is working, but for some reason is not showing it on the cluster, and it have the light for it, the cluster part number is 83800-52S10
157540-8052

Thanks in advance.

OK - 83800-52S10 is listed as being "Puerto Rico Spec". That must mean that for whatever reason the CC indicators are not active. Since your ECM fully supports CC, it sends the messages over CAN bus to the cluster, but your cluster just ignores them. You could pick up a US spec cluster off Ebay and then you'd have the working indicator.

[magnum23]

Ok, I think I will leave it without the CC indicator because changing the cluster implies problems with the warranty, unless I program the current mileage on the new cluster, I dont know why the ECM support CC and something as simple as the cluster, and having the light indicator don't. If somebody find a way to activate that option I will be glad to try it.

CtScott I'm real thankful to you for all your help, and everybody in this excellent Forum.
I will be around trying some different projects and mods from here.

[magnum23]

I dont now it thats just it, but I opened up the cluster and it doesnt have any Led soldered in the cruise and set indicators and also in the Abs indicator, If I solder an Led on the board, should it Do the work? If yes where I can pick up a small led or light to test it?

Thanks in advance.

Update:
I found a post where a member mod the led of the cluster, I will be ordering the leds from ther to see if its works.

[CTScott]

That's actually my cruise control indicator module:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=402815&postcount=67

[magnum23]

I have another question? I did the wiring (blue wire) directly from the computer to the stalk, even when the stock wire goes from the stalk, somewhere else, does that have something to do with the CC signal don't reaching the cluster? I'm just assuming that maybe is an extra wire in the cluster to get the signal that mine doesn't have.

[CTScott]

I have another question? I did the wiring (blue wire) directly from the computer to the stalk, even when the stock wire goes from the stalk, somewhere else, does that have something to do with the CC signal don't reaching the cluster? I'm just assuming that maybe is an extra wire in the cluster to get the signal that mine doesn't have.

The CC signal is sent via CAN bus message, so there's nothing wiring related to activate it. We've seen this kind of thing quite a bit, where clusters have a capability, but in a particular area of the world it's not active. Unfortunately, there's no practical way to activate the non-active features.

[teddy]

Hey CTScott, can you take a look at this for me? Since Toyota Canada is "recommending" the Rostra CC units be removed for a full refund, I think I'd like to take the opportunity to install the OEM CC unit.

Here is a list of the parts I've compiled which I should need. It's for a Canadian 2008 AT.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Av9t2-XkQ_ZvdEZCR09kRm9EWWxQYlhIcTROTWYzcFE&hl=en&authkey=CN6w_OoF

Before I go ahead and order I'd like to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff!

Cheers :bow:

[Shinare]

... Toyota Canada is "recommending" the Rostra CC units be removed for a full refund...

Yikes, thats the kind of CC I have in my yaris from the dealership. Any reason its not good to have?

[CTScott]

Hey CTScott, can you take a look at this for me? Since Toyota Canada is "recommending" the Rostra CC units be removed for a full refund, I think I'd like to take the opportunity to install the OEM CC unit.

Here is a list of the parts I've compiled which I should need. It's for a Canadian 2008 AT.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Av9t2-XkQ_ZvdEZCR09kRm9EWWxQYlhIcTROTWYzcFE&hl=en&authkey=CN6w_OoF

Before I go ahead and order I'd like to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff!

Cheers :bow:

That's it. By the way, within about a week I will have the ECM and Connector D3 pins for sale for less that half of that.

[teddy]

That's it. By the way, within about a week I will have the ECM and Connector D3 pins for sale for less that half of that.

Awesome!! I'll have to contact you for them soon. I'm going to get the dealership to remove the Rostra unit at my next scheduled maintenance appt, in a month or two. I'll order what I need after that.

[magnum23]

That's good to know, Scott as soon as you have the ECM repair terminals Im interested in one.
Thanks in advance.

[teddy]

Sorry to be spamming up this thread, but has anybody done a DIY guide for the OEM stalk on a 07-08 Yaris?

[CTScott]

Sorry to be spamming up this thread, but has anybody done a DIY guide for the OEM stalk on a 07-08 Yaris?

There's not a complete one for 07-08 with the OEM stalk, but it's basically a combination of the 07-08 with the switch method and the 09 with the OEM stalk.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515&highlight=cruise+faq

[tunnelpat]

I installed mine today..it was easy..bought the stalk from ebay for 19.99, the wireing harness and two screws from Toyota for 40.00. Whole thing cost me 70 bucks. :)

[MullDoon]

installed cruise in my 2010 yaris works great.total cost $14 had to buy 100ft of wire thats all radio shack had.total time of install 1hr with going to store very simple. glad i did some looking around before paying $399 for rostra install. I have 1000 mi on car couldn't do my commute without cruise. thanks

[ibanezjeepguy]

do I need to order this for my 2010 w/ power package.

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk Wire (Required to connect the stalk to the spiral cable, within the steering wheel): 84633-42030

I got the stalk & cover w/ hole in UPS today but no wiring came with the stalk as it does from the dealer.

[CTScott]

do I need to order this for my 2010 w/ power package.

Toyota OEM Cruise Control Stalk Wire (Required to connect the stalk to the spiral cable, within the steering wheel): 84633-42030

I got the stalk & cover w/ hole in UPS today but no wiring came with the stalk as it does from the dealer.

Yes. The stalk and the wire are separate parts from the dealer.

[ibanezjeepguy]

forgot to ask, anyone know what size the bolts/screws are that hold the OEM CC Stalk to the car, I think I read it was M5 somewhere ?

[CTScott]

forgot to ask, anyone know what size the bolts/screws are that hold the OEM CC Stalk to the car, I think I read it was M5 somewhere ?

M5 x 0.8

[ibanezjeepguy]

thats great, I had some of these screws laying around from replacing x-clamps on xbox 360. installed the switch and sw back cover tonight, very quick install, if it weren't so dark it probably would've taken half the time!
just a note to future installers, I could not bare fist grip a torx screwdriver to get the airbag screws out. they were in there tight! I had to get my t30 socket on a 1/4" wrench to loosen them. taking off the steering wheel was a breeze, 19mm socket on the nut, held the sw with my legs while yanking the socket wrench did it. did not need a puller like other installers have noted the steering wheel pulled off the shaft effortlessly. removed the ground wire and replaced w/ the wire from the kit I ordered.
done deal. thanks for all the great write-ups

[teddy]

Ok I have my OEM stalk mounted but do not have the necessary cables hooked up to actually make it work yet.

Is there anyone out there who has done this on an 06-08 that can help me out?

I have the ECM repair terminal and spiral connector repair terminals (thanks scott!). The only part I've figured out is where to connect the spiral connector terminals on the connector D3. I don't know where these connect to on the other end, nor where I use the ECM repair terminal.

I've been using Vince87's DIY guide (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=cruise+module+%2425) guide for this part, but unfortunately I really don't know what I'm doing when I get past the plug & play connectors!

[CTScott]

Ok I have my OEM stalk mounted but do not have the necessary cables hooked up to actually make it work yet.

Is there anyone out there who has done this on an 06-08 that can help me out?

I have the ECM repair terminal and spiral connector repair terminals (thanks scott!). The only part I've figured out is where to connect the spiral connector terminals on the connector D3. I don't know where these connect to on the other end, nor where I use the ECM repair terminal.

I've been using Vince87's DIY guide (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=cruise+module+%2425) guide for this part, but unfortunately I really don't know what I'm doing when I get past the plug & play connectors!



This should help with installing the ECM Pin:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444&highlight=ecm+pin

[teddy]

That's one more piece of the puzzle... Unfortunately I still don't know where the terminals from D3 connect go to, nor where the ECM connector connects from..

I will definitely be compiling this into a guide when this is done.

[CTScott]

That's one more piece of the puzzle... Unfortunately I still don't know where the terminals from D3 connect go to, nor where the ECM connector connects from..

I will definitely be compiling this into a guide when this is done.



OK - The ECM pin goes into position A21-pin 40, per the link above. The wire from there connects to pin 1 of D3 (where the blue wire is in the picture below). The second D3 pin goes where the brown wire is in pin 2 of D3. That wire simply gets tied to a chassis ground point (and bolt going into steel under the dash).

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnD3.jpg


On the other side of D3 is the spiral cable (or clockspring as some call it). That is the wiring that goes into the steering wheel. The plug and play connector from the stalk connects the stalk to the two pins above in D3.

The final piece of the puzzle is the horn wire. The existing horn wire has to be moved into the new spiral cable connector in the same position that it was in in its existing connector.

[CTScott]

By the way, D3 is the white connector at the bottom left.

[teddy]

I think I've got the steering wheel part done right, happy to be corrected.
Sorry about the quality of these pics, I got out to the car and found out the battery in my camera was dead.

D3 was the only part I was able to find, the rest I will find later when I've got my step dad with me. Much easier to do this with a second set of hands when I'm not feeling terribly confident.... and he is an electrical technician of sorts.

[CTScott]

Steering wheel connections look good.

[CB900F2]

Scott..

I have the 2008 CND Sedan, and as we all know, the instrument cluster that came with the CND 2008 sedan doesnt have the Cruse indicator.

From your EPC, is there any information to which indicates a part# and possible year series of a cluster that has the cruise indicator and the same in all other features to the the one that came with the car?..

I am trying too see what options I may have in trying to get a CND cluster with the indicator

Thanks Scott!

[CTScott]

Scott..

I have the 2008 CND Sedan, and as we all know, the instrument cluster that came with the CND 2008 sedan doesnt have the Cruse indicator.

From your EPC, is there any information to which indicates a part# and possible year series of a cluster that has the cruise indicator and the same in all other features to the the one that came with the car?..

I am trying too see what options I may have in trying to get a CND cluster with the indicator

Thanks Scott!

The EPC doesn't give the details on which cluster includes the indicator, but if you can find the VIN for a Yaris with one I can do a reverse lookup to figure out the part number(s).

[frankmontreal]

hi! same as teddy 06 canadian yaris, called the junk yard they got the stick with cable for 30$, so from what i understand the rest of the stuff from you scott?

[CTScott]

hi! same as teddy 06 canadian yaris, called the junk yard they got the stick with cable for 30$, so from what i understand the rest of the stuff from you scott?

Nice price on the stalk with wire.

I do have the pins that you'll need to complete the stalk wiring. Here's the link to my thread, which has pictures of the pins, but you need the three pins (ECM connector pin and two pins for connector D3) to wire up your stalk:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31763&highlight=cruise+pins

[bairjo]

Stalk 84632-34011 on ebay today for 19.95. 10 available. Do your search by typing yaris cruise control. If you type the part number it will not show up.

[ibanezjeepguy]

haha, 15 to 30 days shipping..... I guess its worth the wait ?
I just scored a nice factory stereo off ebay recently, good find as well

[bairjo]

It's worth the wait for me as I am in the process of breaking in my new yaris. I'm trying to vary the speed during my 30 mile commute each way. Not a bad little break in drive each day. I have read that setting your speed with cruise and forgetting about during break in is the worst thing to do. So I can wait....

[ibanezjeepguy]

the way engines are built today they can be broken in with less than a weeks worth of driving

[bairjo]

One week of driving how many miles? Based on your reply you and I agree the car needs a break in. Just how many miles is in question. I understand why you feel that one week is good enough. The tolerances of todays cars are much tighter due to improved capabilties of machining or grinding equipment. However, that is on paper and not what is always held and passed on the shop floor. Even with a 100% inspection process, marginal product will get passed. Therefore, I have chosen to go the time proven break in process for piece of mind. It doesn't cost me anything so why not do it?
Since this is a thread on cruise control we probably should look for a thread on break in peroid for any further discusion on that subject. In the mean time, I'll be waiting for my cruise control stalk to arrive.

[ibanezjeepguy]

true that man, maybe a mod should wipe these last couple posts...
post back with how your stalk install goes and if you have any problems.

[Buddy Fan]

Went to the dealer to order the stalk wire and clutch switch and was told they changed the part number for the cc stalk wire to 84633-02020. Hope this helps anyone planning this DIY.

[CTScott]

Went to the dealer to order the stalk wire and clutch switch and was told they changed the part number for the cc stalk wire to 84633-02020. Hope this helps anyone planning this DIY.

Thanks for the heads-up. I updated the thread with that info and have confirmed it via the EPC.

What's the latest pricing on the stalk, wire, and clutch switch?

[ibanezjeepguy]

same thing happened to me a couple months ago... the dealer can easily see the older numbers. even toyota parts zone or comparable sites list the new and old numbers I believe.

[yarisbird]

I just completed the installation of cruise control in my 07 hatchback using the oem stalk that I purchased from e-bay and the cruise indicator module/light and wires/pins from CTScott. The cruise control works great.

Only problem is with the indicator light. It turns on for one second when the ignition switch is turned on, but when the cruise control is turn on there is no light. I installed it according to the instructions using splice tap connectors. All of the connections are tight.

CTScott, is there any diagnostic check that you recommend to determine why the light doesn't turn on when the cruise switch is pressed? I have a digital multimeter if that helps. Thanks for all your help.

[CTScott]

I just completed the installation of cruise control in my 07 hatchback using the oem stalk that I purchased from e-bay and the cruise indicator module/light and wires/pins from CTScott. The cruise control works great.

Only problem is with the indicator light. It turns on for one second when the ignition switch is turned on, but when the cruise control is turn on there is no light. I installed it according to the instructions using splice tap connectors. All of the connections are tight.

CTScott, is there any diagnostic check that you recommend to determine why the light doesn't turn on when the cruise switch is pressed? I have a digital multimeter if that helps. Thanks for all your help.

Just to verify:

The blue wire is connected to the wire that goes to the ECM pin and one of the wires going to the stalk?

The white wire is connected to ignition switched power?

The black wire is connected to ground?

[yarisbird]

Yes.

The blue wire is spliced into the wire that runs from the ecm to the connector under the steering wheel. (pin #1)

The black wire is spliced to the wire that runs from this connector (pin#2) to ground.

The white wire is spliced to the pink wire on the connector under the ignition switch.

[CTScott]

Yes.

The blue wire is spliced into the wire that runs from the ecm to the connector under the steering wheel. (pin #1)

The black wire is spliced to the wire that runs from this connector (pin#2) to ground.

The white wire is spliced to the pink wire on the connector under the ignition switch.

OK. There is something wrong with the module. PM me you shipping address again, and I'll ship you a replacement.

[Buddy Fan]

I'll have to get you exact numbers, but it was in the range of $45 to $50 for both.

[Yarisonline]

Hey, I suggest trying to find that part at www.yarisparts.com ,that's where I get my parts at warehouse price. Good luck :)

[CTScott]

Hey, I suggest trying to find that part at www.yarisparts.com ,that's where I get my parts at warehouse price. Good luck :)

I was just curious as to what the going price is, as I picked up a couple recently for less than wholesale, that I can offer for $40 shipped.

[bkndacn]

@CTScott : Just wanted to thank you for this DIY and wanted to tell you that my cc worked perfectly all 4000 miles cross country and that I even was able to teach my mom how to use it! (a feat in itself) But Me and My right foot thank you!

[bairjo]

Hey, I suggest trying to find that part at www.yarisparts.com ,that's where I get my parts at warehouse price. Good luck :)

I tried the websight but non the links worked for me when i clicked on any model year. Ill try again later.

[CTScott]

I tried the websight but non the links worked for me when i clicked on any model year. Ill try again later.

I have a feeling that it's a spammer. The site seems to be just a dummy front page with sharesale links at the bottom.

[teddy]

I finally finished getting my CC wired up, Canadian 2008 hatchback. Thanks to Scott and everyone else who's contributed.

I will post some pics of the work in the near future. Probably took me a good 4 hours in total because I really had no idea what I was doing, drilling a hole in side of the steering wheel, inserting the pins at the end of the spiral cable, etc.

Probably going to do this on my Mother-in-law's 2007 sedan since she also has the Rostra unit and can get it removed by the dealer for a full refund.

[bairjo]

Well i just installed my cruise control thanks to the DIY info on this thread. I video taped it step by step. Do you think anyone wants to see this? I think it would encourage even the novice mechanic to take this on.

[CTScott]

Well i just installed my cruise control thanks to the DIY info on this thread. I video taped it step by step. Do you think anyone wants to see this? I think it would encourage even the novice mechanic to take this on.

Sure - Post up the video.

[teddy]

You'll need to upload the video to another site like Youtube or Photobucket.

[bairjo]

okay thanks.

[CB900F2]

Hey guys

Has anyone attempted to run a line from D3 to AD4 as described on pages 7 and 8..? AD4 looks fairly accessible from the photo, but I have not had the chance to check myself.

Thanks

[CTScott]

Hey guys

Has anyone attempted to run a line from D3 to AD4 as described on pages 7 and 8..? AD4 looks fairly accessible from the photo, but I have not had the chance to check myself.

Thanks


AD4 is under the top of the dash. You have to remove the dash top to get to it. Also, the wire from the ECM to AD4 is only there in 2009 sedans and 2009+ Puerto Rico cars.

[CB900F2]

Hi Scott.. Maybe we Canuks are lucky in this case, my 08 Sedan has the wire at the ECM, and I can only assume it connected at AD4

I had to confirm and took apart the ECN connector and snapped a photo..
Like you indicated, it appears that there is no access to the AD4 connector from under the dash, but wonder why Toyota/Rostra would put out these instructions if it was not possible?

Maybe to mess with our Cruise Control crazy minds :p

AD4 is under the top of the dash. You have to remove the dash top to get to it. Also, the wire from the ECM to AD4 is only there in 2009 sedans and 2009+ Puerto Rico cars.

[CTScott]

Hi Scott.. Maybe we Canuks are lucky in this case, my 08 Sedan has the wire at the ECM, and I can only assume it connected at AD4

I had to confirm and took apart the ECN connector and snapped a photo..
Like you indicated, it appears that there is no access to the AD4 connector from under the dash, but wonder why Toyota/Rostra would put out these instructions if it was not possible?

Maybe to mess with our Cruise Control crazy minds :p

You just need to train a rat to climb up there and plug the pin in for you.

[CB900F2]

You just need to train a rat to climb up there and plug the pin in for you.

I think that should not be a problem, Toyota dealerships have many of those, I think they call them "Automotive Technicians" :headbang:

[CTScott]

I little constructive feedback on the video i posted a few posts back would be nice as i may consider doing more on future modifications/repairs. Anyone? :iono:

I thought you did an excellent job with it. Now, we just need one for the 2008 and older cars that require the ECM and steering column pins to be added.

[CTScott]

Hey guys

Has anyone attempted to run a line from D3 to AD4 as described on pages 7 and 8..? AD4 looks fairly accessible from the photo, but I have not had the chance to check myself.

Thanks

Here is more detail on AD4:


Connector location under dash (the gray connector next to the blue and yellow connectors at the top left section of this picture):
39851

More detail on the connector's location (this is the male side {which is on the bottom when in place in the car} of the junction connector that is part of the dash harness):
39848

This is how the male pin gets inserted into the connector:
39849

Detail of the male pin:
39850

[frankmontreal]

got everything installed bud it do not work!

so ran a cable from pin 40 of the ecm to pin 1 of d3

grounded from pin 2 of d3 to a bolt of the column


installed the stalk with the new wire

the horn works fine.

i suspect the ground but its minus 15 celcius in the driveway so i'll
check that out again tommorrow,

anything i should test for if it's not the ground wire,

im reading about that ad4 thiing do i miss something?

2006 canadian yaris HB automatic

[teddy]

got everything installed bud it do not work!

so ran a cable from pin 40 of the ecm to pin 1 of d3

grounded from pin 2 of d3 to a bolt of the column


installed the stalk with the new wire

the horn works fine.

i suspect the ground but its minus 15 celcius in the driveway so i'll
check that out again tommorrow,

anything i should test for if it's not the ground wire,

im reading about that ad4 thiing do i miss something?

2006 canadian yaris HB automatic

I don't know what to check, but I definitely did not have to run anything to AD4 that we've heard about. It was direct from D3 to the to the ECM connector A21. Ran the cable through the grommet in the passenger side, under the carpet and eventually up into the steering column. On D3 I wasn't paying attention which pin was ground and which was to the ECM but it worked on the first try so apparently I got it right.

[CTScott]

got everything installed bud it do not work!

so ran a cable from pin 40 of the ecm to pin 1 of d3

grounded from pin 2 of d3 to a bolt of the column


installed the stalk with the new wire

the horn works fine.

i suspect the ground but its minus 15 celcius in the driveway so i'll
check that out again tommorrow,

anything i should test for if it's not the ground wire,

im reading about that ad4 thiing do i miss something?

2006 canadian yaris HB automatic


I assume you have an Automatic, since you don't mention installing the clutch switch?

AD4 is the middle connection point. Some years/configurations of the Yaris have the pin from ECM A21-40 to AD4, but then lack the wire from AD4 to D3. In your case, if you had to add A21-40, then AD4 is not of interest.

For testing, if you have a multimeter, I would start with measuring the voltage on pin 1 of D3 with the ignition on - It should measure 12V, indicating that the connection from D3 to the ECM is good.

Next, unplug D3, and with an ohm meter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the column. It should measure as open, and then if you hold in the on/off button on the stalk it should go to a dead short.

[frankmontreal]

sounds good, i`m gonna try that tomorrow night thanks for the fast answers

[frankmontreal]

ok so changed so ground wire, it's now connected to d1 bolt under the kick panel,

i've tested the d3 with ohm meter seems fine

i've tried to test from the emc wire(the one that goes right to it on passenger side under the carpet)
to the ground with my volt meter and nothing

i'm gonna check out the pin 40 emc again i guess but it seemed fine

im a bit discouraged here lol

[CTScott]

ok so changed so ground wire, it's now connected to d1 bolt under the kick panel,

i've tested the d3 with ohm meter seems fine

i've tried to test from the emc wire(the one that goes right to it on passenger side under the carpet)
to the ground with my volt meter and nothing

i'm gonna check out the pin 40 emc again i guess but it seemed fine

im a bit discouraged here lol

The lack of 12V from the ECM pin definitely points to an issue with the pin. When it is fully inserted the weather seal should be just about flush with the top of the connector.

[frankmontreal]

you're right, that was it it works! the pin was not fully inserted

thanks alot!

[CTScott]

you're right, that was it it works! the pin was not fully inserted

thanks alot!

Excellent!

[teddy]

Hey Scott, random question for you. Say one were to install cruise in a manual transmission without installing the clutch switch. What would happen if you tried to use the depressed the clutch pedal? Obviously the cruise wouldn't know to disengage...

[CTScott]

Hey Scott, random question for you. Say one were to install cruise in a manual transmission without installing the clutch switch. What would happen if you tried to use the depressed the clutch pedal? Obviously the cruise wouldn't know to disengage...

To be able to engage cruise, you at least have to jump the pins that the switch connects to. With that done, if you hit the clutch while in cruise, the engine would rev.

[Tapokata]

Just a note of thanks to CTScott! I installed this mod today in my 09 HB- I used the two button arrangment, mounting the NO switches in the blank remote mirror plate next to the dimmer switch, shown below Less than 20 bucks in parts (Digi-key minimum purchase), and I've got cruise control in the clown-car.

http://tapokata.smugmug.com/Cars/car-stereo/IMG00010-20110213-1148/1186347162_AUWNF-M.jpg

With an 87 mile commute each way to work, my leg thanks you, and I thank you. It really works. :bow::

Now if I could just get the fog light installation sorted...

[frankmontreal]

made my first road trip with the cruise control, montreal-quebec city, thats about 150 miles, i was a bit disapointed the cruise stopped working after 100miles while i was on the highway, kinda weird, i stopped the car for a coffee and it still wasn't working, that's yesterday, today i took the car and the cruise was fine, i need to figure it out cuz i'm driving down to florida in april... any ideas ?

[ibanezjeepguy]

should probably post this in its own topic thread with more details on which CC setup you are using, IE: stock / home-made / etc.......

[CTScott]

made my first road trip with the cruise control, montreal-quebec city, thats about 150 miles, i was a bit disapointed the cruise stopped working after 100miles while i was on the highway, kinda weird, i stopped the car for a coffee and it still wasn't working, that's yesterday, today i took the car and the cruise was fine, i need to figure it out cuz i'm driving down to florida in april... any ideas ?

It's probably still the ECM pin. It may have gotten misshapen with plugging the connector in with the pin not fully inserted.

[hayden]

How do you guys recommend running the wire from the ECM to D3? I've got my car in pieces outside and I'm unsure what route to take. There's a rubber grommit thing that seems to house all the other wires going to the engine bay - should I poke a hole in that or what?

[hayden]

CTScott replied via PM:

How do you recommend running the wire from the ECM to D3? I've got my car in pieces outside and I'm unsure what route to take. There's a rubber grommit thing that seems to house all the other wires going to the engine bay - should I poke a hole in that or what?

There are two ways you can go -

1.You can go down and slightly to the right from the ECM and go through the rubber grommet for the A/C drain hose. It enters the cabin just under the top left edge of the front passenger side carpet (along the hump).

2. You can follow the ECM cable bundle across the top of the engine bay and enter through the giant grommet behind the battery that comes out under the driver's side of the dash, near where the steering column pokes through the fire wall.

Either way, you poke through the grommet with a small screwdriver and then pass the wire through the poked hole.

The 1st way is definitely easier, as the second requires pulling the battery. With the first, you then feed the wire between the A/C system and the plastic of the center of the dash to get across to the steering column.

[hayden]

I also just want to say how awesome CTScott has been in helping me figure this out. I fancy myself rather technically inclined - I've done just about every sort of repair on a couple difference motorcycles I fixed up - but dear God this was a pain in the ass.

For anyone who has a 2007 auto with no power packages, let me sum up all the steps here (for an OEM install) because it was a freaking pain to figure this all out myself.

1. Get the OEM stalk (ebay or on these forums) and pin kit (CTScott sells the pin kit) and some extra 18-22AWG wire (radio shack or elsewhere). You'll need about 6 feet of the extra wire just to be safe. You're also going to need a way to make three connections between wires, either with soldering or with some other connector (I used the squeeze something kind).

2. Plug the ECM pin from your pin kit into your ECM. There's a guide for it here:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444
Something the guide doesn't cover that I couldn't figure out is that once the big clunky cord of wires is unplugged from the ECM is how to move the white plastic bit so you can get the pin in. The big plastic housing around it got in the way and I couldn't figure out how to get it off without risking breaking it. I found that there's a little white tab on the inside of the connector where it attaches to the ECM. The tab is down a valley the middle and you can just stick something thin down there to slide it over. This is probably a bad description, but just keep looking at it until you see it.

I went into this project thinking the ECM was under the dash and I didn't need to worry about routing a wire to the engine bay. WRONG. The ECM is easily spotted if you pop the hood and look to the left of the engine on the firewall.

3. This wire has to be run to the D3 connector, which is under the steering wheel, and is ideally routed under the dash. There are two ways to do this (see above post) and I highly recommend taking option one. To clarify option one, you have to lift a bit of the carpet in the front passenger foot area to find the grommet he's talking about. The length of the pin kit wire isn't going to be long enough, so you're going to want to connect it to your 18-22AWG extra wire. My suggestion is to feed the extra wire from inside the cabin to the engine bay, and then make the connection (I used squeeze connector things, but soldering is ideal) inside the engine bay.

4. Before you can attach this wire to D3, you have a whole lot of plastic disassembly ahead of you. The ENTIRE top dash has to come off and this is no easy feat the first time you do it. The only reason I was able to figure it out was here:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26144
Be sure to note my extra comment that was left out, where you also have to undo the cup holder screws. To clarify the first step, you're removing the plastic pillars that go up along the windshield (where you'd normally find side impact airbags in some cars).

5. If you managed to get the dash off, you're probably ready to give up on life, but you're done with all the hard parts. Route your wire that came in from the engine bay up across the mess of wires under your dash and bring it over to your steering wheel. You're now going to follow the first three steps of this tutorial:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17158&highlight=diy+cruise
to get access to the D3 connector. Use your two remaining wires from the pin kit, plug them into the connector (NOTE: YOU HAVE TO FIDDLE WITH THE MOVABLE PART ON THE CONNECTOR TO GET THE PINS IN). You're now going to take the wire from pin 2 and attach it to any ground point (I used the one on the driver side pillar) and attach the wire from pin 1 to the wire you dragged from the engine bay and across your dash. Congratulations, you're wired to use the OEM CC stalk! Have fun putting this shit all back together (especially if you realize you forgot to put a screw back in under the dash after its all together, like I did). I also had to fiddle with the stupid center air vent for about 10 minutes before I got the cover back on without screwing it up.

6. Follow this tutorial, ignoring the first two photos (which are for manual transmissions):
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23510&highlight=cruise+control
With any luck, you're now ready to go.


All in all this took me 4 hours NOT including step 6, which I still haven't done yet (too worn out and don't have a drill to make the hole right now). This also doesn't include the three or so hours I spent reading and trying to figure this all out before I started. A big reason it took so long was because I was sitting in my car while it was in pieces reading my laptop trying to figure out what to do. Figuring out the wiring between the engine bay and the dash was probably at least an hour of it. I don't think I could have actually ever gotten the wire through with option 2, which was the only way I could find as I was out there doing it myself. I finally gave up and asked CTScott for help and he replied quickly and saved my ass. If I knew it was this involved I don't think I would have bothered, but with any luck it'll work tomorrow once I get the stalk installed. It's gonna suck real bad if it turns out those squeeze connectors didn't work.

In retrospect, this project would have been a lot easier if I routed the wire through the front pillars and ceiling lining or something, because taking the dash off was by far the biggest pain and may have not been 100% needed.

Also forgive any typos, I'm extremely tired and half insane now.

[CTScott]

Wow - That sounds like it was indeed painful. You actually didn't need to take the dash apart to get to D3, nor to run the wire across. You can remove just the lower steering column cover to access D3. If you remove the lower passenger glove box, you can feed the wire between the A/C system and the center dash trim and across to the driver's side. On the driver's side, if you flip down the plastic access panel, under the steering wheel, you can grab the wire from the other side.

There are so many separate DIYs with bits and pieces in regards to the pre-09 cars that it is very difficult to sort through it all. I am still waiting for someone relatively local, with an 07 or 08, to take me up on the offer of helping them out with the install. That way I can put together a comprehensive DIY.

[hayden]

Well I guess I'm dumb.

[CTScott]

Well I guess I'm dumb.


Definitely not, since you got the job done.

[hayden]

Got the stalk installed today (after getting the hole position pretty wrong, it's now pretty giant) and it worked! Hooray!

[mbera]

Hi guys I just got my yaris - 2011 - 1.3 in south africa. - can I do this mod on her. ?
Thanx

[CTScott]

Hi guys I just got my yaris - 2011 - 1.3 in south africa. - can I do this mod on her. ?
Thanx

No. Only the US and Canada 1.5L models have cruise control functionality built into the ECM.

[Yaross]

sirs, just a stupid question...

if we really wanted CC in our yaris, but our ECM was not equipped:

1. can we swapped our ECM with those that have CC already programmed in it? --or --
2. can we use our existing ecm but with some modifications?

our yaris is drive-by-wire, so there must be some other way to do it...

[CTScott]

sirs, just a stupid question...

if we really wanted CC in our yaris, but our ECM was not equipped:

1. can we swapped our ECM with those that have CC already programmed in it? --or --
2. can we use our existing ecm but with some modifications?

our yaris is drive-by-wire, so there must be some other way to do it...

Only the ECM for the 1.5L engine has the built in cruise control, so if your Yaris has the 1.5, then you could swap in a USDM ECM.

The other option is to use one of the aftermarket cruise control systems. There is one system from Europe for Toyotas and I believe that the Rostra system will work with non-US Yaris.

[kimjo]

haha, 15 to 30 days shipping..... I guess its worth the wait ?
I just scored a nice factory stereo off ebay recently, good find as well

I got mine in 22 days looks good and the wires from ctscott

[kimjo]

Well we just finished installing the cruise control. It took a total of 2 1/2 hours including the test drive. It probably would have taken less but we triple checked everything. Can't be too careful.

eBay stalk $30 with shipping
Wires from Scott with the correct ends $10 (but really priceless also)
Saving $360 and doing it ourselves. Priceless

Thanks to everyone here on YW for sharing all you learn.

[DSprague]

Ok, picked up my new 2010 Yaris sedan yesterday with no power package. What Toyota part #s do I need to install factory CC with the stalk on the column? I read through these 9 pages and now my head hurts and I feel confused! Any help would be great.
Thanks
Dan

[CTScott]

Ok, picked up my new 2010 Yaris sedan yesterday with no power package. What Toyota part #s do I need to install factory CC with the stalk on the column? I read through these 9 pages and now my head hurts and I feel confused! Any help would be great.
Thanks
Dan

Dan,

For your 2010 you should just need the Stalk (84632-34011), stalk wire (84633-02020), and mounting screws(90159-50199 {quantity 2}). If you want the precut hole for the stalk, rather than drilling the plastic cover, you will also need the lower boss (45184-52130-B0).

[ibanezjeepguy]

http://www.trdsparks.com/displayparts.php?Mdl_dtl=712&Part_cat=17&parts_id=2306
pretty cheap stalk & wire combo. for the screws just get some from hardware store I believe they're M5 x 0.8 , same as xbox 360 heatsink

[CTScott]

http://www.trdsparks.com/displayparts.php?Mdl_dtl=712&Part_cat=17&parts_id=2306
pretty cheap stalk & wire combo. for the screws just get some from hardware store I believe they're M5 x 0.8 , same as xbox 360 heatsink

Also, I have a couple of the stalks with the wire and the screws for $40 shipped, which is less than half of that price.

[ibanezjeepguy]

how long have you had those? I could've used an awesome deal like that last year!

[CTScott]

how long have you had those? I could've used an awesome deal like that last year!

About two months ago a friend of mine got me a few at dealer cost.

[DSprague]

Also, I have a couple of the stalks with the wire and the screws for $40 shipped, which is less than half of that price.

I'm in, how do I pay you?
Dan

[CTScott]

I'm in, how do I pay you?
Dan

PM sent.

[cicici00]

I have been really busy and did not have any chance to install my cruise control since I bought my OEM stalk from ebay (like months ago). I finally find a weekend to do this thing. I just want to make sure I get the set-up right before I break into my car.

I have a 2008 LB Yaris.

1. I first cut off the red+black wire clip at the end of the stalk

2. I see the "Spiral Connector Repair Terminals" in the parts requirement. I wonder if I really need it, if I treat the stalk = diy switch/button. Can I hook it up like in Fig. 1?
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i369/cicici00/cruise.jpg

3. I think I will get "ECM repair terminal" for Pin 40. I know CTScott sells them. Since I finally find a free weekend to do it, I need that part sooner. So, I wonder if I can buy that from Toyota Dealership and get it on the same day? Or can I just get one from the junk yard? Or if Advanced Auto / Auto zone / radioshack sell them?? I am just afraid if I don't do it this weekend, it will be months after I can do it again.

4. I thought about just insert the wire into Pin 40. But, I am scared it will not be secured. How far do I need to insert the wire into the A21 ECM? Does the ECM terminal has some clip to hold all the wires in place? Anyone here did it without the "repair pin"??

Thanks again for all the help!! :bow:

[CTScott]

I have been really busy and did not have any chance to install my cruise control since I bought my OEM stalk from ebay (like months ago). I finally find a weekend to do this thing. I just want to make sure I get the set-up right before I break into my car.

I have a 2008 LB Yaris.

1. I first cut off the red+black wire clip at the end of the stalk

2. I see the "Spiral Connector Repair Terminals" in the parts requirement. I wonder if I really need it, if I treat the stalk = diy switch/button. Can I hook it up like in Fig. 1?
http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i369/cicici00/cruise.jpg

3. I think I will get "ECM repair terminal" for Pin 40. I know CTScott sells them. Since I finally find a free weekend to do it, I need that part sooner. So, I wonder if I can buy that from Toyota Dealership and get it on the same day? Or can I just get one from the junk yard? Or if Advanced Auto / Auto zone / radioshack sell them?? I am just afraid if I don't do it this weekend, it will be months after I can do it again.

4. I thought about just insert the wire into Pin 40. But, I am scared it will not be secured. How far do I need to insert the wire into the A21 ECM? Does the ECM terminal has some clip to hold all the wires in place? Anyone here did it without the "repair pin"??

Thanks again for all the help!! :bow:




1/2. You don't really want to clip the connector. If you are planning on mounting the stalk in the steering wheel, then it needs to go through the spiral cable.

3. If you want to use the pins, I can ship them today via priority mail for $5 more (bringing the total to $15 for the three pins), so you would have them in hand before the weekend. I believe that the dealer price on them is $12 each, so you would still be saving quite a bit, and I don't think that dealers typically stock them.

4. People have done it this way, but it does not always make good connection and is not sealed, so it will allow moisture to enter the connector.

[wasserburgandy]

hi guys, i am from China, I own an Yaris made by Toyota China. Does anyone here know if the China version Yaris can install the cruise control or not? People here say the ECU doesn't support. tks

[CTScott]

hi guys, i am from China, I own an Yaris made by Toyota China. Does anyone here know if the China version Yaris can install the cruise control or not? People here say the ECU doesn't support. tks

I don't have any of the wiring diagrams or manuals for the Chinese Yaris, but as far as I know, only the US/Canada 1.5L Yaris ECMs have it built in.

[wasserburgandy]

I don't have any of the wiring diagrams or manuals for the Chinese Yaris, but as far as I know, only the US/Canada 1.5L Yaris ECMs have it built in.


Is there an CC indicatior light showing on dash board after installation?

The Chinese version uses 1.6L Dual-vvti engine, toyota model no. 1ZR-FE. 4AT transimission (U340E).
the dash board looks different, see picture following if you can:
http://img.autohome.com.cn/upload/spec/8454/u_20100831195319960213.jpg

The Chinese Yaris is the only Yaris model using 1.6L dual vvti engine in this world, so the ECM and ECU must be different ??? This engine also applies on Chinese Corollla. But anyway I will give it a try after my gurantee expires by following your approach, which probably will happen at the end of this year.

[wasserburgandy]

I don't have any of the wiring diagrams or manuals for the Chinese Yaris, but as far as I know, only the US/Canada 1.5L Yaris ECMs have it built in.

more pics about Chinese Yaris engine:
http://www.autoimg.cn/album/2011/1/26/500_6c89289e-8371-4239-8de3-56038db136c9.jpg
http://www.autoimg.cn/album/2011/1/26/500_77acc56b-8edf-4bc7-b5d2-380ff789efd7.jpg

BTW, do you have any file that records installing the CC by using original Toyota parts stalk& wire in detail with pics?? tks.

[CTScott]

BTW, do you have any file that records installing the CC by using original Toyota parts stalk& wire in detail with pics?? tks.

Look at the first page of this thread for links that show the installation of the OEM cruise stalk. From your pictures, you don't have the 1NZ-FE engine, which as far as I know, is the only one which has the ECM preprogrammed for cruise control.

[wasserburgandy]

http://www.autoimg.cn/album/2009/10/26/500_b94f8f9b-f44e-445f-9e12-c7a016118490.jpg
ECU
http://www.autoimg.cn/album/2009/10/26/500_218f7399-44d1-4e42-a151-e82115939179.jpg
Relay
http://www.autoimg.cn/album/2009/10/26/500_9a474096-6dfc-4802-b6db-8f611c20d76f.jpg

[CB900F2]

Scott.. Would you happen to have a photo the the top half of AD4 connector as I got the connector off the white mount, but since it is a bit tight, I am having a hard time trying to find the latch to unhook the two halfs?..

Thanks Scott!


Here is more detail on AD4:


Connector location under dash (the gray connector next to the blue and yellow connectors at the top left section of this picture):
39851

More detail on the connector's location (this is the male side {which is on the bottom when in place in the car} of the junction connector that is part of the dash harness):
39848

This is how the male pin gets inserted into the connector:
39849

Detail of the male pin:
39850

[CTScott]

Scott.. Would you happen to have a photo the the top half of AD4 connector as I got the connector off the white mount, but since it is a bit tight, I am having a hard time trying to find the latch to unhook the two halfs?..

Thanks Scott!

40523

40524

[CB900F2]

Thanks Scott!

[cdu]

I'm so confused...lol! I've gone through so many threads and am not sure where to start! I first came upon this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWPXFYeLJj0

He makes it looks so easy but then I realized, after spending time on two threads here, that he doesn't touch on any of the engine work that also needs to be done.

I have an 07 Sedan/Automatic and live in Canada.

I know tons of people have asked this question and hate to do this to you guys but...what parts do I need for MY car?

Any help would be much appreciated!

[CTScott]

I'm so confused...lol! I've gone through so many threads and am not sure where to start! I first came upon this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWPXFYeLJj0

He makes it looks so easy but then I realized, after spending time on two threads here, that he doesn't touch on any of the engine work that also needs to be done.

I have an 07 Sedan/Automatic and live in Canada.

I know tons of people have asked this question and hate to do this to you guys but...what parts do I need for MY car?

Any help would be much appreciated!

That's why I just put this together. This is the detailed soup to nuts instructions for all aspects of installing OEM cruise control on any Yaris from 2006-2011:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33750

[CB900F2]

Installed the CC on my CND version 2008 Sedan and all went well, I want to give big thanks to every one and especially Scott for all of his great help!

I installed the OEM CC stalk and ran the CC signal line from D3 to AD4, getting to AD4 was not too bad, just trying to work in the small area under the dash was the only challenge. Grounded the GND line from D3 was no issue.

I recommend the up grade to anyone needing CC

Thanks again to Scott for all his great help and supply of connectors.

[Aetre]

Hi, all. Newbie with a 2009 3dr liftback automatic and the dumb question of the day:

What parts of this cruise control installation, if any, would void the warranty?

[ibanezjeepguy]

none...

[Aetre]

Sweet, thanks.

[ibanezjeepguy]

as long as you're adding toyota OE parts everything should be fine.... its when you start adding in your own home-brew stuff that things become grey

[Midnightsun]

Also, I have a couple of the stalks with the wire and the screws for $40 shipped, which is less than half of that price.

Hey CTScott, I have been trying to get a hold of you as I would like to purchase this from you. Can you PM me please. Thanks.

[CTScott]

Hey CTScott, I have been trying to get a hold of you as I would like to purchase this from you. Can you PM me please. Thanks.

Sorry, I've been out of the country SCUBA diving for a week. I just hit you back by PM.

[teddy]

Can somebody with the OEM cruise & steering wheel cover please post a picture showing the hole where the stalk comes out? Doesn't even have to be a DIY job, even with it installed from the factory.

I'm thinking about picking up an OEM steering wheel cover with the pre-cut hole. The one I drilled is a bit of an eye sore.. much larger than it needed to be because I drilled it in the wrong spot and had to adjust a few times.

thanks

[hayden]

Well I had a pretty scary experience tonight. I installed cruise control with the OEM stalk a few (I think) months ago and it's worked flawlessly up until tonight. It was humid and raining which I think may have caused it?

Anyway, at first CC wouldn't work at all. I fiddled with the stalk a few times on the drive and eventually it turned on. All was well for a couple minutes, until I starting hearing the engine rev and noticed I was going 90MPH (I set it to about 65). It was like the cruise control stalk was stuck in the up position (it wasn't). It did this several times while also cutting out and not working several times during my 30 minute trip. I was obviously watching it very closely after it happened the first time.

Not sure what the cause could be. I'm guessing a loose wire or something? Anyway, extremely unsafe either way and a big notice to anyone out there to be sure to know what they're doing.

[CTScott]

Well I had a pretty scary experience tonight. I installed cruise control with the OEM stalk a few (I think) months ago and it's worked flawlessly up until tonight. It was humid and raining which I think may have caused it?

Anyway, at first CC wouldn't work at all. I fiddled with the stalk a few times on the drive and eventually it turned on. All was well for a couple minutes, until I starting hearing the engine rev and noticed I was going 90MPH (I set it to about 65). It was like the cruise control stalk was stuck in the up position (it wasn't). It did this several times while also cutting out and not working several times during my 30 minute trip. I was obviously watching it very closely after it happened the first time.

Not sure what the cause could be. I'm guessing a loose wire or something? Anyway, extremely unsafe either way and a big notice to anyone out there to be sure to know what they're doing.


If you have access to a multimeter, with the ignition off, measure the resistance between the two stalk wires with nothing pressed and then again with each switch activated.

[hayden]

I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know, thanks.

[CB900F2]

Teddy and all.. Use the template that comes with these installation instructions for the OEM CC installl.
I’ll take some pictures of mine and will post then shortly...


Can somebody with the OEM cruise & steering wheel cover please post a picture showing the hole where the stalk comes out? Doesn't even have to be a DIY job, even with it installed from the factory.

I'm thinking about picking up an OEM steering wheel cover with the pre-cut hole. The one I drilled is a bit of an eye sore.. much larger than it needed to be because I drilled it in the wrong spot and had to adjust a few times.

thanks

[teddy]

Teddy and all.. Use the template that comes with these installation instructions for the OEM CC installl.
I’ll take some pictures of mine and will post then shortly...

Wish I had that template before I drilled the hole! Found it a few days after it was all done.

I was going in blind essentially. This considered I didn't do that bad, but it's a little rough around the edges.

[SKurj]

Excuse my expletives... but my local dealer quoted me $700 for an aftermarket cruise today...

Guess I will be trying my hand at this DIY.....

[teddy]

Excuse my expletives... but my local dealer quoted me $700 for an aftermarket cruise today...

Guess I will be trying my hand at this DIY.....

$700? ouch, though believable if you've got a 2004 Echo. The Yaris uses drive-by-wire so the cruise control is entirely computer controlled. With the Echo they'd need to install mechanical controls to maintain the throttle position.

Mine was just a hair over $500 for the third party Rostra cruise which I had removed in the fall when there was an optional recall.

I don't think this DIY will work for you. If you know what you're doing you could probably find the Rostra kit online far cheaper than the dealer wants but you'll be getting your hands dirty installing it.

[SKurj]

No my 04 has cruise already, installed by toyota for $300 in 2006. This time its my 2009 5spd 3dr.

[teddy]

No my 04 has cruise already, installed by toyota for $300 in 2006. This time its my 2009 5spd 3dr.
In that case, join the club with DIY cruise!! :laugh:

[liam6200]

hi, im from the uk, i have a 2010 yaris 1.4 diesel, would this work on my yaris?

[CTScott]

hi, im from the uk, i have a 2010 yaris 1.4 diesel, would this work on my yaris?

No. Only USDM Yaris with the 1.5L engine have the cruise control functionality built into their ECM.

[liam6200]

No. Only USDM Yaris with the 1.5L engine have the cruise control functionality built into their ECM.

:frown: ok thanks anyway

[CB900F2]

Photos of my OEM CC install


Teddy and all.. Use the template that comes with these installation instructions for the OEM CC installl.
I’ll take some pictures of mine and will post then shortly...

[teddy]

Is that with the OEM steering wheel cover (with the pre-cut hole?) That's specifically what I'm looking for.

[CB900F2]

Hi Teddy.. That is the OEM steering wheel cover, but I drilled the hole using the template.

Is that with the OEM steering wheel cover (with the pre-cut hole?) That's specifically what I'm looking for.

[CTScott]

Here's a picture of one with the OEM stalk hole.

41485

[white_rice]

Can someone please tell me what the functionality is of the single OEM wire/pin that plugs into the D3 connector on the steering column? I ask because I need to replace this connector but want to know what I'll be unhooking exactly, once removed.

Thanks.

[CTScott]

Can someone please tell me what the functionality is of the single OEM wire/pin that plugs into the D3 connector on the steering column? I ask because I need to replace this connector but want to know what I'll be unhooking exactly, once removed.

Thanks.

The black wire is for the horn.

[SKurj]

Ok so my steering wheel cover came in today. I followed all the steps, and kept saying to myself.. too good to be true... too good to be true....

Everything back together, start the car.. airbag light won't turn off... uh oh here we go, what did i break or do I need to run some wire to some pin...

Pop the airbag off again, and notice I hadn't pushed the yellow clips back in. Didn't figure that could be it, but put it back together and started it again. The light went off!!

Too good to be true... Too good to be true...

Test drive time, I notice the cruise indicator on the dash works, good sign. The damn cruise does everything its supposed to flawlessly.. for less than $100... and 30 minutes labor..

Makes no sense toyota doesn't offer this cruise..

Many thanks to Scott for this!

And in this case it's everything its claimed to be.


P.S. If anyone wants the stock steering wheel cover without hole cut, just cover shipping and its yours (note I am in Toronto Area).

[burdenj]

Hi everyone, first substantial post here!

Thanks to this awesome community, my 08' Hatchback now has cruise as well, just put the finishing touches on it this morning.

Please forgive the dirt, it's only just barely spring in St. John's, Newfoundland. Also, that mess that looks vaguely like a circuit is all tidy and covered in heat shrink now :wink:

For the switches, I used double throw momentary toggles which are off at the centered position. I know it doesn't look stock like some of the push button switches do, but I just have a thing for toggle switches.

I got them from Digikey (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=ca&keywords=450-1530-ND%09&x=0&y=0) if anyone's interested (450-1530-ND).

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c353/burdenj/Yaris%20Photos/IMG_0182.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c353/burdenj/Yaris%20Photos/IMG_0186.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c353/burdenj/Yaris%20Photos/IMG_0189.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c353/burdenj/Yaris%20Photos/IMG_0184.jpg

[Brianr4]

Finally finished installing all of mine and it works perfect!
I think it works better then the factory cc in my Tundra.

Have to give much thanks to CTScott for making the kit...selling the kit...and for being so patient with all my questions!

His brain must be super huge!!!!

[Saggio]

Installed my kit today from Scott. LOVE it!

Thanks again!!!

[Brianr4]

Scott, did the horn plug make it back to you?

[bobor]

Hi everybody,

I own my small Yaris and like the car very much. The only minor thing I miss is the CC feature. Since the european models do not have support for CC built in ECU and I do not want to invest too much money in some aftermarket model, so I decided to build my own one.
The idea is very simple. I would like to use a microcontroller to periodically check all necessary input data (current speed, brake & clutch pedal positions, etc.) and then set the digital2analog converter to emulate the accelerator pedal movement by increasing / decreasing the output voltages on both lines to ECU as the speed of the vehicle is under / over set value.
I currently have an open question related to accelerator pedal connection. There are 6 wires for 2 separate Hall probes to detect the pedal position. Of each set, one wire is +5V, second one is GND and the third one is the output, where voltage changes according to accelerator pedal depression level. I would like to cut these two signal lines and put them as input to CC module and connect another two wires (output from CC) as input to ECU. So far so fine.
But my idea is, that during the time CC is switched off, the signal input and output are directly interconnected and when CC is enabled, the output is fed from DAC. I would like to use a relay controlled by microcontroller for this purpose (see fig.). but I am not sure, if it is a good idea. What is your opinion. Is there any better solution for this?
If I use the relay, will there be any problem with temporary loss of signal to ECU during relay switching (the actual switching time is approx. 5 ms)? Or shall I add some small capacitor between output & ground to smooth the glitches. But I have no idea what capacity to use in order not to influence the response time of accelerator pedal too much.
And finally, do you know about any place where can I get at least accelerator pedal connectors (male & female) or the whole accelerator interface harness from ?
I appreciate any ideas. Thanks

[CTScott]

Hi everybody,

I own my small Yaris and like the car very much. The only minor thing I miss is the CC feature. Since the european models do not have support for CC built in ECU and I do not want to invest too much money in some aftermarket model, so I decided to build my own one.
The idea is very simple. I would like to use a microcontroller to periodically check all necessary input data (current speed, brake & clutch pedal positions, etc.) and then set the digital2analog converter to emulate the accelerator pedal movement by increasing / decreasing the output voltages on both lines to ECU as the speed of the vehicle is under / over set value.
I currently have an open question related to accelerator pedal connection. There are 6 wires for 2 separate Hall probes to detect the pedal position. Of each set, one wire is +5V, second one is GND and the third one is the output, where voltage changes according to accelerator pedal depression level. I would like to cut these two signal lines and put them as input to CC module and connect another two wires (output from CC) as input to ECU. So far so fine.
But my idea is, that during the time CC is switched off, the signal input and output are directly interconnected and when CC is enabled, the output is fed from DAC. I would like to use a relay controlled by microcontroller for this purpose (see fig.). but I am not sure, if it is a good idea. What is your opinion. Is there any better solution for this?
If I use the relay, will there be any problem with temporary loss of signal to ECU during relay switching (the actual switching time is approx. 5 ms)? Or shall I add some small capacitor between output & ground to smooth the glitches. But I have no idea what capacity to use in order not to influence the response time of accelerator pedal too much.
And finally, do you know about any place where can I get at least accelerator pedal connectors (male & female) or the whole accelerator interface harness from ?
I appreciate any ideas. Thanks

With the amount of development required to safely implement cruise control, I would think that in the end run it will be less expensive to use an aftermarket cruise control system. I realize that the primary aftermarket system available in Europe is very expensive (~$700 US), but I believe that the Rostra aftermarket cruise control system, which is sold in the US and Canada for ~$200 US, will work on the European Yaris.

[bobor]

With the amount of development required to safely implement cruise control, I would think that in the end run it will be less expensive to use an aftermarket cruise control system. I realize that the primary aftermarket system available in Europe is very expensive (~$700 US), but I believe that the Rostra aftermarket cruise control system, which is sold in the US and Canada for ~$200 US, will work on the European Yaris.
Hi CTScott,
thanks for your response. I admit its time consuming process and there are many risks to consider, but it's my hobby :smile: At the moment I would say I have 90% of the source code ready, so there are only minor modifications to be done and a lot of testing and bug fixing :smile: But except my free time I invest into it, the parts will cost me not more than 20 EUR ( ~30USD).
Regarding the aftermarket models, the situation is slightly better than you expect, at least here in Slovakia. I can get one for ~450 USD, but still Rostra model even including shipping costs would be cheaper. And I don't see any reason why it should not work on European models.

But as I said, it's a hobby.

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott,
thanks for your response. I admit its time consuming process and there are many risks to consider, but it's my hobby :smile: At the moment I would say I have 90% of the source code ready, so there are only minor modifications to be done and a lot of testing and bug fixing :smile: But except my free time I invest into it, the parts will cost me not more than 20 EUR ( ~30USD).
Regarding the aftermarket models, the situation is slightly better than you expect, at least here in Slovakia. I can get one for ~450 USD, but still Rostra model even including shipping costs would be cheaper. And I don't see any reason why it should not work on European models.

But as I said, it's a hobby.

OK. In that case, back to your original question - I would not use mechanical relays. I would stick with solid state switching, by transistor or FET, to avoid the switching delays.

[bobor]

OK. In that case, back to your original question - I would not use mechanical relays. I would stick with solid state switching, by transistor or FET, to avoid the switching delays.

Unfortunatelly I do not have any experience with solid state switching. If you could point me to some good tutorial, I would appreciate it :wink: But AFAIK in this case, the input signal (voltage level) from either accelerator pedal (hall probes) or DAC would be somehow degradated (lowered) due to voltage drop PN junction.
Solid state switching is definitely faster than mechanical relay. But advantage of a relay is that it does not require power supply to interconnect one of the input lines to the ouput. I though of using this a safety mechanism, so in case anything goes wrong I would just switch off the power supply to cruise control module and the relay would (almost immediatelly) switch back to default state (direct connection of accelerator pedal). But if I find some good solution using solid state, I am about to change my mind.

[CTScott]

Unfortunatelly I do not have any experience with solid state switching. If you could point me to some good tutorial, I would appreciate it :wink: But AFAIK in this case, the input signal (voltage level) from either accelerator pedal (hall probes) or DAC would be somehow degradated (lowered) due to voltage drop PN junction.
Solid state switching is definitely faster than mechanical relay. But advantage of a relay is that it does not require power supply to interconnect one of the input lines to the ouput. I though of using this a safety mechanism, so in case anything goes wrong I would just switch off the power supply to cruise control module and the relay would (almost immediatelly) switch back to default state (direct connection of accelerator pedal). But if I find some good solution using solid state, I am about to change my mind.

Here's a pretty good intro to transistor switching.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm


Rather than switching back and forth, it may actually make more sense to put the microcontroller in between the pedal and the ECM. That way, the ECM samples the pedal outputs and then in normal mode, just emulates what it sees. Then, in CC mode it ignores the input and sends its own output.

The other advantage of this method is that you can improve the throttle response in normal mode (like the Blitz throttle controller does).

[bobor]

Here's a pretty good intro to transistor switching.

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm


Rather than switching back and forth, it may actually make more sense to put the microcontroller in between the pedal and the ECM. That way, the ECM samples the pedal outputs and then in normal mode, just emulates what it sees. Then, in CC mode it ignores the input and sends its own output.

The other advantage of this method is that you can improve the throttle response in normal mode (like the Blitz throttle controller does).

Thanks for the link, I will have a look on it. Your idea seems quite interesting, maybe I will change my plans a little bit and implement it that way. But I still have a feeling, that switching between DAC and pedal accelerator outputs is a little bit more safer.

Another idea came to my mind how to avoid switching delays with a relay. If I connect the DAC output directly to output line of the relay (to ECM) and accelerator pedal to one input of the relay (the second input remains unused), I can first set the output voltage on DAC and then switch the relay (cut the accelerator pedal line). On a switch back, the accelerator pedal is switched on first and then DAC disabled. This way, there is no voltage drop on signal line to ECM.

The only drawback is, that all time, when DAC is not in use (even just before switching off the accelerator pedal line, when DAC output is set) there is voltage from accelerator pedal to DAC output. I have no idea, if it can harm it in any way and what the impedance between DAC output and ground. If the impedance is too low, it can make a short connection and damage the ECM, that I obviously would like to avoid :smile:

And finally, do you have any idea, what size the input impedance of ECM could be?

[CTScott]

Thanks for the link, I will have a look on it. Your idea seems quite interesting, maybe I will change my plans a little bit and implement it that way. But I still have a feeling, that switching between DAC and pedal accelerator outputs is a little bit more safer.

Another idea came to my mind how to avoid switching delays with a relay. If I connect the DAC output directly to output line of the relay (to ECM) and accelerator pedal to one input of the relay (the second input remains unused), I can first set the output voltage on DAC and then switch the relay (cut the accelerator pedal line). On a switch back, the accelerator pedal is switched on first and then DAC disabled. This way, there is no voltage drop on signal line to ECM.

The only drawback is, that all time, when DAC is not in use (even just before switching off the accelerator pedal line, when DAC output is set) there is voltage from accelerator pedal to DAC output. I have no idea, if it can harm it in any way and what the impedance between DAC output and ground. If the impedance is too low, it can make a short connection and damage the ECM, that I obviously would like to avoid :smile:

And finally, do you have any idea, what size the input impedance of ECM could be?

The impedance on the ECM input pins is approximately 2K Ohms.

[49erRider]

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

[CTScott]

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

The most common one with 06-08's, when using the OEM stalk is not properly seating the ECM pin. The check for that is to measure the voltage on the wire connected to the ECM pin with the ignition switch in the on position (engine not running). It should measure 12 Volts with no buttons pressed on the stalk. If it does not, then the pin is not seated properly or is in the wrong location.

[49erRider]

I figured it out! I had 12volts to the ECM pin so that wasn't the problem. When I drive I ride with my foot just resting on the clutch. That was enough to remove pressure from the plunger causing it to not activate.

Works great, another thankful yaris owner Scott!

[hayden]

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

[CTScott]

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

Those voltages are fine (and that is correct to measure them with the engine off, but ignition on).

Try wiggling the ECM Pin while measuring to make sure that the connection is not intermittent.

Can you refresh my memory on if you have an AT or MT?

[hayden]

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

[CTScott]

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

[hayden]

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

[CTScott]

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

If that looks solid, work your way towards the stalk, verifying the connections along the way.

[hayden]

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

[CTScott]

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

[hayden]

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

I think I'm giving up. I guess I'm a god damned retard because apparently I cannot even make the wires connect. I reran ALL of the wire again, and the connection right at the D3 connector will be fine for 5 minutes, then with changing nothing, the connection will break. I'll check it at the ECM, it's fine, and then check it again at D3 and magically it's working again after changing nothing. And now even when there's a connection right before the D3 connector, moving the CC stalk no longer causes any changes in voltages, meaning there's now also a problem with the D3 connector or something between the D3 and the stalk.

Maybe I'll just put up a craigslist ad asking someone who isn't a retard to do it for me for $50 or something. Anyone in DFW want to make some easy money?

[ejm]

..anyone still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable? for '09 yaris sedan?....I can only find the >$80 one's online, which is a bit over my budget!..any help appreciated!

[CTScott]

..anyone still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable? for '09 yaris sedan?....I can only find the >$80 one's online, which is a bit over my budget!..any help appreciated!

I still have a bunch that I sell for $40 with the wire and the mounting screws. I will PM you my paypal info.

[PROX4x4]

I still have a bunch that I sell for $40 with the wire and the mounting screws. I will PM you my paypal info.

Scott,

Finished installing mine yesterday, it took 1 hour and works like a charm, thanks for the fast shipping, extra pins and the stalk was brand new. :thumbsup:

One thing else I forgot to add was that the stalk already had the Horn wire in it, no need to rewire per the DIY notes available in this site.

[CTScott]

Scott,

Finished installing mine yesterday, it took 1 hour and works like a charm, thanks for the fast shipping, extra pins and the stalk was brand new. :thumbsup:

One thing else I forgot to add was that the stalk already had the Horn wire in it, no need to rewire per the DIY notes available in this site.

Exactly - I actually add the horn wire before I ship them to make it easier for people to install them.

[jimmypeach]

Got my stick today, ( fast shipping!!) installed it in 1/2 hr!!

Thanks Scott!!

[2mtech]

CTScott -

Have only been reading (a lot) since I got my '11 3Dr last week but took a quick interest in this thread. It's probably +47 or so, but thank you immensely for putting so much great info together!

Do you still have any of the CC clutch switches that will work on my ride?

TIA

[CTScott]

CTScott -

Have only been reading (a lot) since I got my '11 3Dr last week but took a quick interest in this thread. It's probably +47 or so, but thank you immensely for putting so much great info together!

Do you still have any of the CC clutch switches that will work on my ride?

TIA


Yes. I try to keep all of the parts on hand, so I have stalks, clutch switches, and the pins required for pre-09 cars.

[2mtech]

Yes. I try to keep all of the parts on hand, so I have stalks, clutch switches, and the pins required for pre-09 cars.
Cool. If you would PM me your PayPal addy I'll be more than glad to make your parts inventory lighter and your balance heavier :wink:

[2mtech]

Scott -

In looking to incorporate all four CC functions into one switch, it occurred to me that the power rearview mirror adjust switch is a four-way, MOM-MOM-MOM-MOM-OFF switch. What do you think of the possibility of using that switch for the CC functions? Do you have a spec of that switch (since you have everything else :wink:)? I don't have power mirrors so acquiring and using that switch would be ideal if it would work. I have no desire to mess with the airbag/steering wheel to install the stalk and haven't been able to locate a suitable aftermarket 4-way part.

As always, your input is eagerly awaited :bow:

[CTScott]

Scott -

In looking to incorporate all four CC functions into one switch, it occurred to me that the power rearview mirror adjust switch is a four-way, MOM-MOM-MOM-MOM-OFF switch. What do you think of the possibility of using that switch for the CC functions? Do you have a spec of that switch (since you have everything else :wink:)? I don't have power mirrors so acquiring and using that switch would be ideal if it would work. I have no desire to mess with the airbag/steering wheel to install the stalk and haven't been able to locate a suitable aftermarket 4-way part.

As always, your input is eagerly awaited :bow:


The power mirror switch has an internal PCB that handles switching the four functions between the two sides. You would have to gut one to see if that switch is actually usable. Someone else on here found a nice little joystick type switch.

By the way, those power mirror switches typically sell for more than my $40 price tag for the OEM stalk.

[2mtech]

The power mirror switch has an internal PCB that handles switching the four functions between the two sides. You would have to gut one to see if that switch is actually usable. Someone else on here found a nice little joystick type switch.

By the way, those power mirror switches typically sell for more than my $40 price tag for the OEM stalk.
That would figure...I always try to do things in the most expensive way possible :wink:

I have the Digikey switches now, may just settle for them.

Thanks for the response!

[2mtech]

Did the mod today, using the joystick switch from Allied Electric 127.0.0.1 used (only with the bat handle instead of the arrow button), and the clutch switch and resistors from Scott.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480343

I installed it where the outside rearview mirror adjust switch would've been if equipped. It's easy to reach, and running the wires from that point was simple.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6072/6159799721_bbfcd9267b_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67502513@N04/6159799721/)

Everything worked perfectly! Thanks so much again, Scott! :headbang:

[kwkshft]

Thanks guys! Just did it this morning after getting the parts from Scott. Works perfect on my 09 hatch! I used the oem lower steering wheel cover from the dealer, here's what the hole looks like:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k230/kwkshft/Yaris%20S/003-1.jpg

[MN:-)Yaris]

Hi. I'd like to install cruise control on my new Yaris (new to me) but I'm a bit concerned about messing up the safety systems, i.e. airbags. I went to my local library and looked at a copy of Chilton's service manual for late model Toyotas and they recommend using [OEM?] scanning/diagnostic tools to check for system errors anytime an air bag has been removed and then re-installed on Toyotas with OCS prior to reconnecting the battery. I don't have access to such equipment but I like to be sure everything is still working when I put it back together. What are the risks of not following this step or is Chilton just being hyper sensitive? Doesn't the Yaris have a built in diagnostic function with connection to the instrument indicator light? The Chilton manual, part of a hard cover phone book thick series covering Asian cars, appeared to be written for repair shops. I'm fine with doing the mechanical and electrical work for the CC thanks to all the effort people have put in on this forum but I'm a little spooked at the air bags and the related systems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

MN:-)Yaris

[CTScott]

Hi. I'd like to install cruise control on my new Yaris (new to me) but I'm a bit concerned about messing up the safety systems, i.e. airbags. I went to my local library and looked at a copy of Chilton's service manual for late model Toyotas and they recommend using [OEM?] scanning/diagnostic tools to check for system errors anytime an air bag has been removed and then re-installed on Toyotas with OCS prior to reconnecting the battery. I don't have access to such equipment but I like to be sure everything is still working when I put it back together. What are the risks of not following this step or is Chilton just being hyper sensitive? Doesn't the Yaris have a built in diagnostic function with connection to the instrument indicator light? The Chilton manual, part of a hard cover phone book thick series covering Asian cars, appeared to be written for repair shops. I'm fine with doing the mechanical and electrical work for the CC thanks to all the effort people have put in on this forum but I'm a little spooked at the air bags and the related systems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

MN:-)Yaris

If there are any issues with the SRS, the airbag light will illuminate on the dash, so as long as you don't have the light on when you are done, all is well. If the light was on, there is a method (posted in another thread) to make the SRS ECU flash the airbag light in a pattern to tell you what the error is.

[carlosgil5]

Mexican Yaris get a different ECM than US and Canadian ones, so you would definitely have to test it to see. The place to start is to measure the voltage on the ECM pin 40, with the ignition in the on position. If you see 12 Volts on that pin, then there's a good chance that it will work.

If you shine a flashlight around on your instrument cluster, do you see the two icons for cruise control?

Well, I know it's been a while since I ask for your help, a 4 hour drive remind me I need this mod. Check this out please.

My instrument cluster has the two icons for CC, my ECM part number is 89661-52G71, and I have a reason to believe that mexican and canadian yaris use the same specs because there's a sticker on my door with a canadian logo.

The canadian sticker surprised me, apparently all mexican Yaris got it, a friend of mine has a sedan and the same sticker is there.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_2737.jpg

What do you think? can this be posible?

If that is correct and I have the canadian version I would like to buy one of your cc kits you sell and give this a shot.

Thanks for the help.

[CTScott]

Well, I know it's been a while since I ask for your help, a 4 hour drive remind me I need this mod. Check this out please.

My instrument cluster has the two icons for CC, my ECM part number is 89661-52G71, and I have a reason to believe that mexican and canadian yaris use the same specs because there's a sticker on my door with a canadian logo.

The canadian sticker surprised me, apparently all mexican Yaris got it, a friend of mine has a sedan and the same sticker is there.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_2737.jpg

What do you think? can this be posible?

If that is correct and I have the canadian version I would like to buy one of your cc kits you sell and give this a shot.

Thanks for the help.


I just ran your VIN through the EPC and your car is actually a Canada spec, not Mexico spec Yaris, so cruise will definitely work for you. I suspect that even for Mexico Spec cars that it will work as well.

[carlosgil5]

I just ran your VIN through the EPC and your car is actually a Canada spec, not Mexico spec Yaris, so cruise will definitely work for you. I suspect that even for Mexico Spec cars that it will work as well.

:w00t:

thanks for the quick reply.

are you still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable?

I have a US based shipping address in Nogales, Arizona

[CTScott]

:w00t:

thanks for the quick reply.

are you still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable?

I have a US based shipping address in Nogales, Arizona

Yes. I still have the Stalks with CC wire and mounting screws for $40, as well as the pins needed for 06-08. Theoretically your 2010 AT only needs the stalk, since the US and Canadian 09+ Yaris have the wiring in place, but you may want to take a peek at the ECM connector and the spiral cable connector to be sure.

[ZeeGrandChamp]

Did the CC upgrade on my 2010 USDM 3-Door... as easily as changing a shift knob. CTScott's kit is great and the updated part number for the cover is:

45184-52130-B0 and the list price is about $32.00

[carlosgil5]

Yes. I still have the Stalks with CC wire and mounting screws for $40, as well as the pins needed for 06-08. Theoretically your 2010 AT only needs the stalk, since the US and Canadian 09+ Yaris have the wiring in place, but you may want to take a peek at the ECM connector and the spiral cable connector to be sure.

Please PM me your info.

Can't wait to do this, If the wiring is already in place a friend of mine with a 08' sedan can use the extra wire.

Thanks for the help.

[carlosgil5]

Did the CC upgrade on my 2010 USDM 3-Door... as easily as changing a shift knob. CTScott's kit is great and the updated part number for the cover is:

45184-52130-B0 and the list price is about $32.00

thanks for the info, but I think am gonna' drill. I'll be very careful.

[carlosgil5]

Please PM me your info.

Can't wait to do this, If the wiring is already in place a friend of mine with a 08' sedan can use the extra wire.

Thanks for the help.

Well, am in trouble, I picked up the package, thanks for the kit, everything came in time and as expected.

Drilled the cover, installed the stalk with the wire, did a road test and it's not working.

I definitely need help here guys.

What do you think, the 06-08 method?

Looks like this is going to be a learning experience for the people with Yaris bought in Mexico.

[CTScott]

Well, am in trouble, I picked up the package, thanks for the kit, everything came in time and as expected.

Drilled the cover, installed the stalk with the wire, did a road test and it's not working.

I definitely need help here guys.

What do you think, the 06-08 method?

Looks like this is going to be a learning experience for the people with Yaris bought in Mexico.


Can you take a measurement on the wire that goes to the ECM pin. With the ignition on and none of the stalk switches pressed, it should read +12V.

[carlosgil5]

Can you take a measurement on the wire that goes to the ECM pin. With the ignition on and none of the stalk switches pressed, it should read +12V.

I could not get any measurement I have one of those little harness plugs in the hole where pin 40 would be.

This are the connections under my steering wheel.
there's no blue and no brown wire.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_1633.jpg


This is my cluster showing the cc icons.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_1630.jpg

So I have to run the wire from which hole in the connector?

What else do I have to do, I already drilled the cover, plugged the stalk wire and bolted the OEM stalk.

I was really hoping my '10 AT had all the wires in place. Not at all.

[CTScott]

I could not get any measurement I have one of those little harness plugs in the hole where pin 40 would be.

This are the connections under my steering wheel.
there's no blue and no brown wire.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_1633.jpg


This is my cluster showing the cc icons.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w229/carlosgil5/forums/IMG_1630.jpg

So I have to run the wire from which hole in the connector?

What else do I have to do, I already drilled the cover, plugged the stalk wire and bolted the OEM stalk.

I was really hoping my '10 AT had all the wires in place. Not at all.

So, you definitely need to add the connector D3 pins. The other question is if the ECM connector A21, pin 40 is present? On Puerto Rico spec cars, it is, but the D3 pins are not.

[carlosgil5]

So, you definitely need to add the connector D3 pins. The other question is if the ECM connector A21, pin 40 is present? On Puerto Rico spec cars, it is, but the D3 pins are not.

Am getting a little nervous about this, I unplugged the ECM connector A21, looked at the pin 40, small pin by the way, and looks like there´s nothing there, just the empty space, It was late and dark, of course I´ll double check at lunch time.

Now my concern is with my ECM, in theory I have the one used in the canadian Yaris (89661-52G71), but, what if there´s nothing on my ECM to receive the wire in the ECM connector A21 pin 40? would that mean I have the cruiseless euro type of ECM (nooo please)?

Oh boy am in panic.

[CTScott]

Am getting a little nervous about this, I unplugged the ECM connector A21, looked at the pin 40, small pin by the way, and looks like there´s nothing there, just the empty space, It was late and dark, of course I´ll double check at lunch time.

Now my concern is with my ECM, in theory I have the one used in the canadian Yaris (89661-52G71), but, what if there´s nothing on my ECM to receive the wire in the ECM connector A21 pin 40? would that mean I have the cruiseless euro type of ECM (nooo please)?

Oh boy am in panic.

89661-52G71 is a US/Canada spec ECM, so I am sure that you are OK. I should have made you check the ECM and connector D3 pins before I sent you the stalk.

[carlosgil5]

89661-52G71 is a US/Canada spec ECM, so I am sure that you are OK. I should have made you check the ECM and connector D3 pins before I sent you the stalk.

Hey CT you have been of great help, definitely my bad, since I have a ´10 I tought I had the wires in place and I was lazy to unbolt stuff and take a look.

Ok, so my next step would be Vince87´s method right?

I already downloaded the PDF and read the entire thread.

wire from AD3 to ECM connector A21 pin 40 right?

[CTScott]

Hey CT you have been of great help, definitely my bad, since I have a ´10 I tought I had the wires in place and I was lazy to unbolt stuff and take a look.

Ok, so my next step would be Vince87´s method right?

I already downloaded the PDF and read the entire thread.

wire from AD3 to ECM connector A21 pin 40 right?

Correct - Wire from A21-40 to D3 and D3 to ground. I can mail you the pins (ECM pin - $5, D3 Pins - $5). USPS to Mexico is the same as to Canada, so there would be no extra charge for me to ship them to you directly (rather than to your US address).

[carlosgil5]

Correct - Wire from A21-40 to D3 and D3 to ground. I can mail you the pins (ECM pin - $5, D3 Pins - $5). USPS to Mexico is the same as to Canada, so there would be no extra charge for me to ship them to you directly (rather than to your US address).

Wow, sounds great.

Do you know if USPS offers a faster shipping speed?, I am willing to pay a little more for a faster shipping and get this done.

[CTScott]

Wow, sounds great.

Do you know if USPS offers a faster shipping speed?, I am willing to pay a little more for a faster shipping and get this done.

Priority mail (6-10 business days) would be $13 more and Express mail (3-5 business days) would be $30 more.

[carlosgil5]

Priority mail (6-10 business days) would be $13 more and Express mail (3-5 business days) would be $30 more.

Ok, I think 3-5 bussiness days are too many days (expensive too), I am going to buy some 20-24 AWG wires and try to make the connection myself. Are these wires made from many thin wires or 1 thick one.

If I can´t make it work, I´ll order them from you.

Sorry for so many questions I do not have electronic experience in cars.

I am very grateful, Thank you.