Yoda's Turbo Log

[cali yaris]

^ What controller are you using?

[Yoda]

Was not using a controller just a spring.

[cali yaris]

That explains the boost creep. You can pretty much nix that (and make more power sooner) with a controller.

[Yoda]

Naw it was the open down pipe. It created a situation where it was easier for the exhaust gases to pass by the wastegate. And also not enough exhaust was flowing tru the dang thing to begin with. The hole was very small. I will upload the pics later today when I get off work.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I'm with Garm on this one. Boost creep or no boost creep - get a controller. If you set it up correctly it greatly aids in spooling. You do seem to be obsessed with getting as much power as possible :wink:

Speaking of - are you still pushing 10 psi? If so how many miles has it been?

[Yoda]

I'm with Garm on this one. Boost creep or no boost creep - get a controller. If you set it up correctly it greatly aids in spooling. You do seem to be obsessed with getting as much power as possible :wink:

Speaking of - are you still pushing 10 psi? If so how many miles has it been?
Yea boost controller is in the works but just had to make it clear that it was not causing my creep.
Here are some pics of the porting job. Not bad for my first time. O sorry for the big pics:redface:

[Scubaru Steve]

porting the waste gate is probably the best way to reduce boost creep. the other setup is to get a low psi spring and use a boost controller, but you can still get creep with that setup if you cant get the air out of your wastegate. i bet that porting helped!

[Bluevitz-rs]

Looks pretty thin on the one edge. Did you leave enough material there for the door to make a seat?

[Scubaru Steve]

Looks pretty thin on the one edge. Did you leave enough material there for the door to make a seat?

oh i didnt see that... hope it works fine for you.

[Yoda]

Looks pretty thin on the one edge. Did you leave enough material there for the door to make a seat?

Yup it's just enough material left. It spools about 300 rpm faster than before. And sounds like a jet lol. The turbo is almost as loud as my exhaust... I need to get a vid up one of these days.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Awesome :)

[CrankyOldMan]

I think you may need to swap the final drive to get more torques on your wheels, eh Garm?

[cali yaris]

yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes

[Yoda]

Need help to pick a new engine management. Scince I am trying to get the most out of this engine stock I need to upgrade form the Aem fic. Throw some names at me

[Bluevitz-rs]

AEM EMS?
GReddy Ultimate?

[Yoda]

Also what ignition upgrades should I be considering? Just coils? I already have one step colder plugs.
Hmm not sure about the ultimate with the cost of all the things you need to get it running the way you want it. You might be up there in cost with the standalone.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

http://shop.microimageonline.com/Allan-Phillips-Racing-In-line-ECU-1NZX1-100.htm

If I was building my Yaris, this is the management I would choose - without a doubt. IT UTILIZES ALL OF THE STOCK WIRING/SENSORS. Just having a harness made for standalone management is probably over 1K in labor alone.

[Yoda]

that might be nice but who am i gonna get to tune that beast?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I would imagine anyone that knows a decent amount about engine tuning should be able to pick up on using the software pretty quickly. Realize that most engine managements do the same thing - manage the engine lol. The biggest difference is always going to be how it's implemented.

Don't quote me on that though.

[Blown_xa]

Also what ignition upgrades should I be considering? Just coils? I already have one step colder plugs.
Hmm not sure about the ultimate with the cost of all the things you need to get it running the way you want it. You might be up there in cost with the standalone.

Don't worry about ignition, the factory packs are good past 30psi of boost. I use Haltec Sprint 500, factory wiring harness. Just made a patch (plug and play) harness.

[Bluevitz-rs]

that might be nice but who am i gonna get to tune that beast?

The Tacoma crowd use is it quite a bit if you google it... so I'm sure you could ask someone. Otherwise you might only need a good A/F gauge and tune it yourself.

[Yoda]

:help:Don't worry about ignition, the factory packs are good past 30psi of boost. I use Haltec Sprint 500, factory wiring harness. Just made a patch (plug and play) harness.

hmm let me look into this some. It looks interesting

[Blown_xa]

:help:

hmm let me look into this some. It looks interesting

it is a good price for a standalone, but just remember this ..... it takes a lot more tuning to have a good running car. I think the FIC is fine for your purposes , unless you want to raise rev limit.

[Scubaru Steve]

Don't worry about ignition, the factory packs are good past 30psi of boost. I use Haltec Sprint 500, factory wiring harness. Just made a patch (plug and play) harness.
+1, haltech makes amazing electronics
http://www.haltech.com/index.php/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500

[Bluevitz-rs]

^ but it still doesn't do VVTi right?

[Blown_xa]

^ but it still doesn't do VVTi right?

Platnum sport 1000 does. Factory ecu controls vvti on mine (Sprint 500), use to have Camcon assist... but removed it along with turbo timer. Im the type of person who likes to minimise the number of electronic devices in my car. VVTI honestly isnt worth the time spent tuning IMO. You would be looking at a couple more hours of tune time, for a few whp under the boost curve (max power won't change).

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah vvti is more for N/A on this motor.

[Yoda]

Ok i will take your advice. Need to fix my idle problem first. There is a popping sound and the afr dips to 17s every time it does it. Tried scanning it and it showed no misfires so it may just be hitting lean spots. Think there maybe a small leak some where that i need to hunt down. Then gonna get another compression test and a proper retune.

Considering water meth too.

[ilikerice]

Got a quick question for you guys on the standalone.

I hear some use just a piggy back and the stock ecu will correct itself after a while and been reading people just reset their computer by disconnecting the negative on their battery for a min. then runs fine again.

Going standalone. this eliminates that problem, correct? Once its set, its done?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah a standalone will take over all the control functions of the stock ECU to run the engine. You'd only need to leave the stock ECU connected to specific functions to control specialty items like cruise and auto transmission ect...

[cali yaris]

^ and power steering, even though there is a separate power steering ECU. Found that out by mistake when we removed the ECU.

My stock cluster lights up like a christmas tree now. P/S, airbags, temp, maintenance req'd (I leave that on as a joke), and one more I can't remember.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Got a quick question for you guys on the standalone.

I hear some use just a piggy back and the stock ecu will correct itself after a while and been reading people just reset their computer by disconnecting the negative on their battery for a min. then runs fine again.

Going standalone. this eliminates that problem, correct? Once its set, its done?

I can definitely understand your confusion here because tbh everyone throws that explanation around and it's really vague.

THERE IS NO REASON YOU CAN'T USE A PIGGYBACK WITH OUR ECU. I assume what most people are talking about when they say this is air/fuel ratio behavior. Yes, the stock ecu will "correct" itself making it impossible to run closed loop fuel control without modifying the O2 signals. On the plus side, it will also change ignition and camshaft timing accordingly. Of course if those were manually tuned (standalone) you could crank more power out.

Moral of the story if using a piggyback: either run open loop, or manipulated closed loop (O2 signals, tps signal).

[ilikerice]

awesome, thanks for the clarification on that Focus.

[Parmas]

Platnum sport 1000 does. Factory ecu controls vvti on mine (Sprint 500), use to have Camcon assist... but removed it along with turbo timer. Im the type of person who likes to minimise the number of electronic devices in my car. VVTI honestly isnt worth the time spent tuning IMO. You would be looking at a couple more hours of tune time, for a few whp under the boost curve (max power won't change).

Yeah the Haltech Platinum sport 1000 is currently my ecu and is great in efficiency tuning so far. I cannot understand how the factory ecu is controlling the vvti when it needs certain controls that now are connected to your Sprint 500 ?

I have to disagree with Blown_xa about VVti. I got about 20 torque and 25 bhp till 5000rpm with as far as 30Degrees Advance till 5psi boost. VVTi was tuned within an hour so it was surely worth the time spent tuning !

The Haltech ecu can handle idle control (make it a point that not all standalone ecus handle it so check out the specs first). Attached is my idle control page on ecu.

[Blown_xa]

Yeah the Haltech Platinum sport 1000 is currently my ecu and is great in efficiency tuning so far. I cannot understand how the factory ecu is controlling the vvti when it needs certain controls that now are connected to your Sprint 500 ?

I have to disagree with Blown_xa about VVti. I got about 20 torque and 25 bhp till 5000rpm with as far as 30Degrees Advance till 5psi boost. VVTi was tuned within an hour so it was surely worth the time spent tuning !

The Haltech ecu can handle idle control (make it a point that not all standalone ecus handle it so check out the specs first). Attached is my idle control page on ecu.

The factory ecu still sees everything and controls the vvti actuator just like factory, this is because of the way mine is wired. The halted sprint 500 doesn't control vvti, so that is how it should be wired. However, with the sport 1000 in your case.... It is wired up and can control vvti. It is no surprise you got gains, but that is because you started at a static vvti state ( you started with zero advance).

[Parmas]

The factory ecu still sees everything and controls the vvti actuator just like factory, this is because of the way mine is wired. The halted sprint 500 doesn't control vvti, so that is how it should be wired. However, with the sport 1000 in your case.... It is wired up and can control vvti. It is no surprise you got gains, but that is because you started at a static vvti state ( you started with zero advance).

And I thought the Sprint series were better than the Sport Series!

[Blown_xa]

And I thought the Sprint series were better than the Sport Series!

The sports series has more features... aux inputs, outputs. Also has cold start, sprint does not. We use the sport 1000 on scion tc's, haltec actually created the basemap for that car with us on our dyno years ago. So the vvti for that engine management was already set up ( tuned bone stock car).

I like the Sprint 500 though, it is physically tiny, and does everything I need.

[Yoda]

Goal is 300WHP...

[Yoda]

Need help on the injector size. Dont know what size to use. Its gonna be tunned for 250 whp untill i get a few more suppension mods and lsd. Got pics of dome goodies will post later.

[cali yaris]

minimum 550cc, or get the ones I have @ 632cc

[Bluevitz-rs]

So did you end up doing any internal work?

[Yoda]

So did you end up doing any internal work?

Yup rods and pistons for now then goon be building up my spare head over the summer then slap it all together. What plugs u running Garm?

[cali yaris]

hmm not sure. cooler ones. :)

...and honda motorcycle coils paired with an M&W ignition module.

[1.5]

off topic but I cant find the answer by searching,

What is the size flange on the manifold you are selling Garm?

[cali yaris]

T25

[Yoda]

After market fuel rail anyone?
http://www.toyboxracingstore.com/fuel4.html

[pimp my yaris]

I am looking into a new rail, pump, regulator with return. Have U purchased a rail yet. If so how did it work out?

[Yoda]

All rails are on back order. Its gonna take atleast 2 months before I can get one made.

[fnkngrv]

To get you by until you can "upgrade" I have a contact that can modify the stock rail for return line. Hit me up if you want and I can get you connected. This is what I will be doing until the right rail is available for my needs.

[Yoda]

This is what I am doing.

[djgab101]

the rods and pistons you used are forged are they the same size as the origional ones? so it is just a matter of replacing the piston and rods

[pimp my yaris]

How is your engine build going? Did U complete your return line?

[Yoda]

Ran into an issue with the machine shop so I am still waiting for them to get the engine back. Not exactly happy about waiting 2 months just for machine work...

[cali yaris]

^ Understandable. Golden Eagle is also currently a 6-8 week wait just for sleeving.

[Yoda]

I dont mind waiting if its quality work. Just sux not having the car and renting one.

[pimp my yaris]

I lost a month and a half working on my car. It blows. Most of the time was waiting for parts.

Are U getting your short block sleeved?

[Yoda]

I lost a month and a half working on my car. It blows. Most of the time was waiting for parts.

Are U getting your short block sleeved?

nope. Think it would be unnecessary for my goals.

[packetrace]

all those turbo thread makes me wanting it loll...but i got a/t...:(

[cali yaris]

^ so? you can turbo an auto.

[Yoda]

Turbo autos are fun. Do it!

[packetrace]

I wont use all the potential from this turbo...:O ?

[Yoda]

There will be some lost due to the transmission but still there will be a very noticeable change in power.

[packetrace]

tempting!!!

[Yoda]

Its getting close to fun time but i need a fuel pressure regulator for my return line and fuel gauge any suggestions?

[cali yaris]

I'm an AEM fan (except for their coils, lol), obviously:

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail1.jpg

[cali yaris]

I'm an AEM fan (except for their coils, lol), obviously:

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/GoldenEagle/fuelrail1.jpg

[Yoda]

You wouldn't happen to have one in stock would you?

[packetrace]

Can these iginition coil be used on a stock echu with piggyback ?

[cali yaris]

fuel Regulators and gauges are in stock.

[Yoda]

The shop that is working on my car in Miami are incapable of getting the job done in a timely manner.
I am still waiting on the engine to be put together after they have had my car for five months. Very very aggregated by them and going to pick up the car this Saturday. I will be taking over the project from now on. Nothing but lies and false promises. Very disappointed.

[pimp my yaris]

The shop that is working on my car in Miami are incapable of getting the job done in a timely manner.
I am still waiting on the engine to be put together after they have had my car for five months. Very very aggregated by them and going to pick up the car this Saturday. I will be taking over the project from now on. Nothing but lies and false promises. Very disappointed.

That sucks. Get some engine assembly lube, feeler gauges, dial calipers and do it your self. Or find a quality engine builder. Someone who specializes in engine building. Make sure you have the piston and cylinder clearance checked closly. I have a lot of piston slap noise. Especialy when the engine is cold. It is making my nervous and Im not sure how this will effect reliaibility in the long run. The Cp pistons I bought are for a stock bore 1nzfe but I think they are to small. This seems to be a common problem with these pistons. The noise is only getting worse as the weather gets colder.

[Bluevitz-rs]

There's a difference in the way cast pistons (OEM) expand vs. forged (CP). So the cold fitment is different causing more piston slap when cold.

Pimp, does the problem go away once up to temp?

[cali yaris]

Yoda, which shop is it?

[cali yaris]

The Cp pistons I bought are for a stock bore 1nzfe but I think they are to small.

If they were too small, and the right measurements were made, wouldn't you know that before you put them in? What tolerances did you use when you put the motor together?

Mine was done by a professional engine builder, as you suggested. So I'm curious to learn more about how you did it.

[Yoda]

Yoda, which shop is it?

Small shop in Miami called RaceLab:thumbdown:

[fnkngrv]

sad to see and hear...you will need to put the word out so that others don't suffer the way that you have done.

[pimp my yaris]

There's a difference in the way cast pistons (OEM) expand vs. forged (CP). So the cold fitment is different causing more piston slap when cold.

Pimp, does the problem go away once up to temp?

The noise does diminish when the engine is warm, but it never goes away.

[pimp my yaris]

If they were too small, and the right measurements were made, wouldn't you know that before you put them in? What tolerances did you use when you put the motor together?

Mine was done by a professional engine builder, as you suggested. So I'm curious to learn more about how you did it.

I did not have a proper bore guage. That is why I am stressing that it needs to be checked and double checked. I thought ordering a oem bore piston and using a stock unbored block would be OK. But it is very noisy and I am concerned about piston wall scoring or a piston skirt breaking. This is a perfect example of what my car sounds like when starting cold. My piston rings gap was checked and I am not burning any oil and the car runs great. Just very noisy. I have searched the net and it seems to be a common complaint with cp pistons.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NVjR4CYrCw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Blown_xa]

I did not have a proper bore guage. That is why I am stressing that it needs to be checked and double checked. I thought ordering a oem bore piston and using a stock unbored block would be OK. But it is very noisy and I am concerned about piston wall scoring or a piston skirt breaking. This is a perfect example of what my car sounds like when starting cold. My piston rings gap was checked and I am not burning any oil and the car runs great. Just very noisy. I have searched the net and it seems to be a common complaint with cp pistons.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NVjR4CYrCw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Ive built probably 20 motors, unless you resleeve you pretty much need .5mm larger pistons. My motor has stock bore pistons, but I used a block with 5000 miles on it. Even then, the piston wall clearance is on the loose end of being acceptable after proper honing.

I know many people on here like to save a buck, but sometimes it is better to get a pre assembled shortblock. Many don't realize the work put into a shortblock, it isn't just pistons and rods thrown into a block. (not aiming this toward you)

[Yoda]

Ok just picked up the car. Before I dive into the engine I need to find a top mount exhaust manifold. Any ideas?

[packetrace]

Ok just picked up the car. Before I dive into the engine I need to find a top mount exhaust manifold. Any ideas?

a top mount manifold is a manifold that the flange is pointing upward ?

I have one to sell which have a t25 flange...it has been sanded and painted black recently...I sell it to have a downside one....

ill sell it for 100$ = shipping to you
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/Antho_Paquette/0bd5f4eb.jpg

[Yoda]

The flange points up when you mount it right? I have one that points down if you need it. why r u selling that pretty thing lol.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I sell it to have a downside one....


The flange points up when you mount it right? I have one that points down if you need it. why r u selling that pretty thing lol.

yup

[packetrace]

The flange points up when you mount it right? I have one that points down if you need it. why r u selling that pretty thing lol.

Like I said i sell it to have a downside one :p i was going to buy the one from Garm with WG flange but i am
Interested to see yours :-)

Pm me!

[Yoda]

the one i got is from Garm but it does not have the wg flange. Pics coming soon.

[packetrace]

the one i got is from Garm but it does not have the wg flange. Pics coming soon.

PM sent:wink:

[cali yaris]

you can always look at our online store for pics :wink:

http://shop.microimageonline.com/images/mani-no-wg-1.jpg

[packetrace]

yeah Garm I know how they are made...I could modify it to have the WG flange...and then bingo! :)

[Yoda]

Here is a pic of it now. You have pm!

[thefalls]

you can always look at our online store for pics :wink:

http://shop.microimageonline.com/images/mani-no-wg-1.jpg

Beautiful!

[Yoda]

Thanks packetrace got the manifold yesterday! There are a bunch of parts laying around in my room. Going to me redoing my piping with 2" from turbo to IC then 2.5" to TB.
Pic coming later.

[packetrace]

Hehe glad you like it :)

Looking forward to see pics!!:D

[Yoda]

All this is on my floor right now about 1.5K worth of stuff.
Kings Performance is putting my engine together as i gather all the other small parts i need. Its getting pretty costly at this point :rolleyes:

[cali yaris]

^ yeah, that sorta just happens. :laugh:

[packetrace]

Are you going to weld piping together ?

[Yoda]

Naw not really needed for the way I will have it setup. Just a can of hairspray will do lol.

[packetrace]

Ahahah what color ?

[Yoda]

Ok so there is a problem. The shop in Miami whoever they used to do my engine fucked up. All the clearances are off. If I put it together now it's all gonna be loose. My options are at the moment is to sleeve it for $700 or get a new block and start over. Want to bash there heads in but it's an expensive learning lesson. Thinking I might just sleeve it n have it rock solid. But money is an issues now.

[pimp my yaris]

Ok so there is a problem. The shop in Miami whoever they used to do my engine fucked up. All the clearances are off. If I put it together now it's all gonna be loose. My options are at the moment is to sleeve it for $700 or get a new block and start over. Want to bash there heads in but it's an expensive learning lesson. Thinking I might just sleeve it n have it rock solid. But money is an issues now.

Whats loose? Bearings, piston to bore clearance, ring gap some of this is fixable. If the engine is not in the car its not to late.

Then again a sleeved short block is also nice. I can tell you that will also have added expense as I am finding out. I really need a stand alone $$$$ to make the most out of my motor. My piston to bore clearance is a little loose but so far it runs great and does not burn a drop of oil :)

[cali yaris]

Have you addressed this with the shop? What did they say? Can you post pics or some other proof of the screw up, something you could share with them? etc. etc.

The shop in Miami whoever they used to do my engine fucked up. All the clearances are off.

[Yoda]

Have you addressed this with the shop? What did they say? Can you post pics or some other proof of the screw up, something you could share with them? etc. etc.

I washed my hands on that shop. Heading to the machine shop now actually so I will see if I can take done picks.

[speed1]

awesome, thanks for the clarification on that Focus.

Please,
be so gentle and tell me why u felt desire to go standalone than piggy?
I mean I first know piggy with stock oxigen sensors cannot do much.
But they sensors replaced by wideband sensor so stock denso ecu stands only like dead link from piggy to engine.
I have emanage ultimate and vmanage:
I don't need anybody's help to map from zero new ecu but I use stock base map as given and I modify reading wideband gauge.
Want u to tell me standalone is quicker?
My piggyes work at 8 bit like denso ecu.
Where I wanna go?
Please again,
I'm not engineer but it seems to me I don't need else better than I have.
God bless u to explain me I'm mistaken.

[ilikerice]

I have no issues with piggybacks, in fact I would rather go piggyback. I used Emanage blue on my crx for years and I like it because I know it. But I also don't want to have to reset my ecu every friday. I heard people say their ECU is auto-correcting the maps on piggybacks.

He obviously clarified that you can use a piggyback and there is nothing wrong with that, you just gotta do a bit more fooling the ecu than a standalone.

But honestly, the yaris hasn't been pushing me towards turbo as of late. I find myself wanting something a bit more, maybe go back to my crx, ek hatch and have been pondering building a turbo MKI mr2, I got a 4ag sitting in my garage right now.

[speed1]

ECU is auto-correcting the maps on piggybacks.


Ecu autocorrects just because of oxigen sensors along exhaust pipe line.
Sensors are good spies. Only they make their holy job.
U throw them away U don't mind them anymore.
That's what I've done.
Then U put to emanage numbers U need and engine goes what U want.
AFR Gauge is needed.
God bless all of Us.

[Yoda]

Been gone for a minute but the project is back on. Had to use my fiances to help my family out and such. Engine is undergoing rebuild right now. Trying to decide if i should get it sleeved or not. I wont be pushing more than 300whp and I remember Blown Xa doing a few runs on that power level no problem. Also going to need a new manifold cause the ones I have don't suit the larger turbo well (no room).

[TOLMACH]

^ Glad to hear you did not give up ))

Good luck with your new build!

[speed1]

All this is on my floor right now about 1.5K worth of stuff.
Kings Performance is putting my engine together as i gather all the other small parts i need. Its getting pretty costly at this point :rolleyes:
What paradise of turbo are u setting on yaris what boost pressure?
Stock piston e rod e head bolt?
mmmmmmmmm:rolleyes:

[cali yaris]

YES. congrats in advance!

[Yoda]

What paradise of turbo are u setting on yaris what boost pressure?
Stock piston e rod e head bolt?
mmmmmmmmm:rolleyes:

Turbo is the GT28-rs up to 22 psi. Cp pistons and I beam Rods with all new head bolts.

[speed1]

Turbo is the GT28-rs up to 22 psi. Cp pistons and I beam Rods with all new head bolts.
Great stuff..
But please,
I know turbo cars, I mean engines, have oil injectors under cylinder block to cool pistons...
1nzfe miss them...
Not the danger to blow very easy at 22 psi????
Indeed I'm really interested in turbo built, main choice to compete with 2000cc.
May tell me what revs turbo spool is and what revs top end power is?
I barely mean what u can expect not dyno I'm not interested in.
Sure gt28rs 22psiu make much more than 200hp.
Great stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

[Blown_xa]

Been gone for a minute but the project is back on. Had to use my fiances to help my family out and such. Engine is undergoing rebuild right now. Trying to decide if i should get it sleeved or not. I wont be pushing more than 300whp and I remember Blown Xa doing a few runs on that power level no problem. Also going to need a new manifold cause the ones I have don't suit the larger turbo well (no room).

50,000 miles so far on factory sleeves, no excessive blow-by indicating cylinder distortion. Haven't done a leakdown test in a while, but the last one was good.

[Yoda]

Do you think I need to get my IC piping welded? I could save about $500 just by cut and clamp. What worries my is the 20psi I will running. Open to suggestions

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Are you worried about blowing couplers off? My tC pushes 22 psi with silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps with no issues. I did have problems with a vacuum plug being blown off... That was fun. :rolleyes:

Definitely opt for t-bolt over worm gear at that point.

[cali yaris]

24 psi here, no issues with silicone couplings or fittings. A lot of clamps would make me nervous though.

[pimp my yaris]

20 psi and my couplers are holding. Are U running a FIC or a standalone? My FIC is maxed out at 20. 15psi atmosphere plus 20psi boost runs to the top of the FIC map at 35.

[Yoda]

Running the fic still but if I am able to save a few here and there I will be upgrading to standalone. Garm did you have to modify anything to get your turbo to fit back there? Think I still have your manifold in my garage.

[cali yaris]

^ I remember having to clock it, and I insulated the firewall, but otherwise it fits okay.

Remember, we now offer plug 'n play AEM EMS + Boomslang harness. Best of all worlds, and certainly the way I would have done it.

[Yoda]

Ok cool I may take you up on that offer. My FIC is wired in gonna be a pain to remove .

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Just throw the bypass plug in and be done with it.

[pimp my yaris]

What's the price on that Aem Ems boomslang combo Garm? We need a YW discount.

[cali yaris]

^ Just throw the bypass plug in and be done with it.

Yeah but then he's stuck with the FIC sitting there. Gotta be some resale value there!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah but then he's stuck with the FIC sitting there. Gotta be some resale value there!

True. I wonder if AEM sells just the universal harness (and if so, for a reasonable price).

The thought of having to remove that harness after it's installed is worth no worldly sum of money to me for the effort involved, lol.

[Yoda]

True. I wonder if AEM sells just the universal harness (and if so, for a reasonable price).

The thought of having to remove that harness after it's installed is worth no worldly sum of money to me for the effort involved, lol.

LOL i know right:rolleyes:

[Yoda]

Question did anyone need to change to tolerances when installing the pistons? I think it says 35 thousandths but not sure if it should be more for my boost level

[Bluevitz-rs]

Piston to wall clearance?

[Yoda]

Piston to wall clearance?

Yea that.:wub:

[Bluevitz-rs]

It's different if you're using forged or cast pistons. Each has a different expansion rate so you'll have to do a bit more research to get it correct.

[pimp my yaris]

I went with the standard piston size. I beleve it was 75mm. I did not have a proper cyl. Bore guage. I have a little to much clearance. Noisy piston slap when the motor is cold. It gets a lot more quite when the motor is warm. It sounds like a old VW diesel. I have beaten the shit out of it with no problems yet. No oil burning at all. Its just sounds shitty when cold. Both Garm and blown xa said they have some piston slap noise. I beleve you can have some tighter tolerance on forged pistons as opposed to cast because they dont expand as much. This would explain my noise. I dont know what sizes you can by for custom cp pistons. I know 75 and 75.5 mm are available. Best to measure with a bore guage. And remember pistons are not perfectly round.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Pistons should be perfectly round. A worn cylinder bore might not be though.

[cali yaris]

I think we have 76mm also.

[Yoda]

I have the 75.5 mm one. Might be getting a custom manifold made for the turbo. Cant fit it in there with the waste gate I was looking the the PT tuning one but not sure if it would fit back there.

[cali yaris]

Why doesn't it fit? I have the same manifold I sell and mine fits back there.

[Yoda]

I have a internal wastage .

[Yoda]

So my choices are as follows:
Order new external mani from MI and find an external WG
Have a manifold custom made
Sell everything and just get a new car lol.

This unforseen expenditure will delay me a bit longer.

[cali yaris]

I have a internal wastage .

They buy the one without a wastegate flange. It's offered both ways on our site. :iono:

[Yoda]

Sorry if I was not clear. The internal wastegate is what is preventing it from fitting. It hits the firewall.

[Yoda]

Last few parts I was waiting on have come in. New manifold and wastegate. Just one more thing to get... AEM EMS with pnp harness.:biggrin: I cant wait:redface:

[Yoda]

Finally got all of the parts needed. Engine done and going in.
About 2 more weeks of work.

[ilikerice]

looks awesome.

[Yoda]

Went to the shop just to see how they were doing. Its pretty much all done but one problem is getting the TPS issue with the Haltech Sprint sorted out. The issues is that the Haltech is not reading the throttle position accurately. If he puts 50% throttle it reads between 70-100%. Tried a couple different settings but nothing seemed to fix it. Now were trying to figure out if it is tapped in the right location. I think its in C20-115 right now. Are there any other possible pin locations or settings I may have missed?:confused::iono:

Anyway here are a few pics:rolleyes:

[Golddeenoh]

what does it read a t closed throttle? sounds like it is off keyed but further testing would be needed to determine for sure.

[Yoda]

Cant member what it was. I know the blitz guys use A21-55 for an input not sure it would work for me but I will try anything at this point. If I get this solved then by Friday i will pick her up.

[Yoda]

Anyone have any ideas? Seems like the FI section went belly up.

[fnkngrv]

Is this possibly a drive by wire issue? Are you still using the stock ECM for DBW?

[Yoda]

Is this possibly a drive by wire issue? Are you still using the stock ECM for DBW?

Still using the stock ECU for DBW.

[fnkngrv]

Have you reached out to Carlos to ask him yet?

[Yoda]

Have you reached out to Carlos to ask him yet?

Nope did not. Did he have the Sprint 500 also? We are going to try A21-55 and hope for the best.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

He's tapping the wire, not intercepting it, right?

[Yoda]

I am pretty sure. I am going over there in a couple hours and will make sure every thing is set up right. Did my research on some possible causes. Really hope it can be resolved today as I just need a tune and this beast is DONE!
On another note... How is that Tc of yours?

[Yoda]

Alright so its about 90% done.
These are the problems I am having now:
-High Idle of about 1500rpm. I hoping the ecu relearns the idle. If not I will need to switch from DBW to cable.
-Car starts after 3 attempts every time all the time. Not sure why yet.
-AFR at idle is off the scale lean even tho the vacuum its dead on at 19hg. When we add more fuel it doesn't even move. The sensor is fine tho as it read accurately when tuning and when tested.

So hear are the numbers...259whp and 246tq @ 13.8psi on pump gas. Not sure how high I can go before I need water/meth so it was just tuned of the wastegate. I am driving it around to break it in and to see if the idle drops then its back to clean up the tune.

[kou]

Great numbers that should make for a fun ride.

[Yoda]

It's a bit scary actually lol. Love it!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

It's a bit scary actually lol. Love it!

Awesome man, I know the feeling with my tC (which is doing great, thanks for asking).

It's a very good problem to have :laugh:

[1.5]

So you wont be making it to the V2Labs Back to school bash tomorrow?

[Yoda]

So you wont be making it to the V2Labs Back to school bash tomorrow?

Almost there lol. Just need a new TB and that's it! Just installed my HID kit and lowered it a little. 250 more miles then I get to turn up the boost for some real power:biggrin: