My new 6x9 subwoofers pics inside

[YarisSedan]

Finally stepped up and decided to purchase these. Not sure if any members have them on their car yet. I think im gona have to do a little bit of modding to the sheet metal with a dremel they are massive. They gota way atleast 5 times more than my 6x9 speakers i have in there already. I was looking for a little more bass without having to put in a heavy sub. I already have proper sound staging in the front with strong components. So i figured why not.

Gona try them free air first and then silicon clear tupperware baskets under the rear deck to give it a sealed enclosure. I dont expect it to be earth shattering but should fill in the mids and some lows that i was missing.

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/tang1.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/tang2.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/tang3.jpg

[Alien Mantis]

Interesting.

Don't free-air them. They need to be sealed up.
They look like they would be comparable to a short-throw 8".
What is their RMS power rating?
They look like they might be around 100-150 watts RMS each.
What is the Xmax rating on them?

Do you have a dedicated amp on them, with a crossover?

Silicone Tupperware baskets under them ???
NO. Very bad idea.

[kac]

Su-Weet!

[YarisSedan]

Interesting.

Don't free-air them. They need to be sealed up.
They look like they would be comparable to a short-throw 8".
What is their RMS power rating?
They look like they might be around 100-150 watts RMS each.
What is the Xmax rating on them?

Do you have a dedicated amp on them, with a crossover?

Silicone Tupperware baskets under them ???
NO. Very bad idea.

I was gona try to hook it up to my existing factory wiring. It is wired to my 4 channel amp. I have been trying to find the specs but no luck so far on it. I just know its a memphis audio and seems to be decent quality. The rear channel has a seperate crossover so i can set the frequency to low pass and the gain appropriately. Only question is it going to provide enough power.

heres a copy and paste from the website for the specs on the subs.

The oval shaped frame of the W69-1042 gives you the surface area of a typical 8" driver in the footprint of a 6-1/2". Perfect for constructing a narrow-baffle subwoofer, or for automotive installs in factory 6" x 9" locations. High power handling and long excursion for excellent low-bass performance. Specifications: *Power Handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 35-350 Hz *Fs: 35 Hz *SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 1.34 cu.ft. *Qms: 6.05 *Qes: 0.37 *Qts: 0.35 *Xmax 7 mm *Dimensions: A: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", C: 4-3/16".

[Alien Mantis]

Ah yes. I saw these on the PartsExpress website.
They are Tang-Ban or something like that.
Anything from 40-100 watts should run them fine.
80 watts would probably be perfect.

Let us know how they sound after you get them installed.

[YarisSedan]

Should i run these in series or run each indepently

[yarisugi]

independently. You can always make your own box. I say no on that tupperware idea, too.

[Palmer812]

Should i run these in series or run each indepently

Actually you should run them in parallel. That would give you 4 ohms. Then bridge the rear 2 channels of your amp to them.

[YarisSedan]

Actually you should run them in parallel. That would give you 4 ohms. Then bridge the rear 2 channels of your amp to them.

that was what i was thinking.

[goku87]

Don't free-air them. They need to be sealed up.

I think what he meant by "free-air" is that he was just going to stick them in the rear deck and call it a day. There should be no problem with him doing so if the back seat is up; and even if it was down, the only issues he may have is some noise cancellation due to the sound waves coming from both the top and bottom of the speaker itself.

[derickveliz2]

Finally stepped up and decided to purchase these. I was looking for a little more bass without having to put in a heavy sub. I already have proper sound staging in the front with strong components. So i figured why not.

Good idea, looking forward to hear from your experience.

What staging do you have in front?


,
:thumbsup:

[YarisSedan]

Good idea, looking forward to hear from your experience.

What staging do you have in front?


,
:thumbsup:

Memphis audio MC15-MSQ6 6.5s with the tweeters mounted up by the pillars facing the window.

[derickveliz2]

Memphis audio MC15-MSQ6 6.5s with the tweeters mounted up by the pillars facing the window.

Cool,

Tweeters facing the window? please explain to me. Do you have pictures?

.
:thumbsup:

[YarisSedan]

Cool,

Tweeters facing the window? please explain to me. Do you have pictures?

.
:thumbsup:

Yeah ill take pictures of my entire setup once i get everything installed. Cars in the bodyshop till probaly wensday so hopefully i will have time to put the new subs in and take pictures thursday.

[H3LlIoN]

Are those paper cones?

[YarisSedan]

Are those paper cones?

They feel like it.

[talnlnky]

YEAH!!!! I've always wanted to play around with those. It appears they use the same motor as the TB8 740 drivers... And I must tell you, the 740's are kick ass little 8's... The best 8" sub i've come across that you can buy for under 150.

Paper cones are actually probably the best material a sub can be made with (due to other materials having weird harmonic resonances.

Free-air/infinite baffle in the rear deck will work perfectly fine. The only thing you have to worry about is over-excursion, I doubt it'll be a problem, but if you start to hear distortion coming from the speakers, turn it down a little.

The tuperware enclosures mounted to the bottom of the rear deck will work fine. It looks ghetto, but will work fine as long as its not extremely flimsy tupperware. It's alot easier and lighter to do that than make a wood or glass box for them. You just have to make sure that they are completely sealed (air tight). Depending on the size of the tupperware, you may think about putting some polyfil/pillow stuffing in the enclosure too. It'll trick the speaker into thinking the enclosure is a bit bigger. The TB subs have a low Qts value tho, and thus are well suited for small enclosures (especially ported ones).

[YarisSedan]

Good to know i can just plop them in and call it a day. Only thing im worried about now is my rear deck rattaling like hell. I have some generic dynomat i think its called B-quite but the glue dosnt seem to stick very well i did my trunk i my other car and the stuff just started to fall off after awile and cause more rattles.

What would you recomend thats really good. I dont think price is much of a issue sine ill be doing just a small area ill only need a few feet.

[Alien Mantis]

talnlnky: have you been drinking?

I am surprised at what you said.

:eek:

:thumbdown:

:moon:

[talnlnky]

nope... I stick to what I said.... i'm not saying tupperware is the best thing.... It is ghetto lookiing and it's not going to be the most rigid enclosure either... but thats true of 95% of the sub boxes in cars these days. All those prefab boxes are crap, and the speaker terminals they put on them are usually even worse.

It is simply a very cheap way (if you can get it at a 2nd hand store, or got some laying around) to get a workable enclosure that won't put lots of stress on a rear deck, and will help you have control over the excursion of a sub that would otherwise be playing IB/free air.

You know... now I kind of feel like ranting a bit. You know that the perfect enclosure shape for a sub is a sphere... due to the equal dispersion of the pressure inside of a box. People have been using Sonotubes in Home Theaters for awhile because it is an easy way to get a very lightweight but large enclosure that is still rigid (due to the cylindrical shape). Square wood boxes are kind of an inefficient design, easy to make, but even still, nobody ever does it correctly. When was the last time you saw somebody make a box for a 10,12, or 15" sub that was more than 1cuft that had a 1.5" thick baffle, with internal bracing, and heavy duty binding posts (I used to use binding posts that could take 4awg speaker wire... over kill, but really, binding posts that are built solidly, air tight, and can take 10awg easily should be standard, not privilege). Furthermore, sealing the seams from the inside of the box, and even doing a lil radius action on the corners using something like glass resin or body filler is good. For ported boxes, making sure the port ratio of height to width is kept as far away from 8:1 as possible is nice... not to mention rounding the port entrance and exits or using pre-made flared ports with an adequate port area.... but people don't really care bout that stuff... cause if you did all that, you could easily be paying somebody $500 for a small 2-3cuft ported box... and if you were to do it yourself it could take you a good 3-4 days to make it once you got done putting a nice finish on it (that wasn't paint), and still pay upwards of $100-200 on it.

And for those prices... why not just get into making a glassed box and have it look cool.

So,... to sum things up.... 99% of the population is lazy and the laziness is the weakest link in their system as it bleeds out in all aspects of the install. The way you install your equipment makes up for at least 60% of how your system sounds... if not 70 or 80%. There are some niffy tricks that are ghetto... but unless your entire install is pristine, which I doubt many people on this board can say... those tricks could save you a lot of time, money over other options, and still increase the current quality of sound in your car.

[YarisSedan]

Okay FINALLY got everything installed and in working order. Fried the old amp trying to bridge it to power the subs. Got my new alpine deck wired in. Then ran new 12 gauge wiring to the rear speakers and ran them in series at 4 ohms. Changed the RCA output from the rear channel to sub output so now i can control the subs with a quick push of the button which is convenient for neighborhoods or stop lights.

MAN OH MAN. They are much better than i expected. I would say its equivalent to 1 10 inch sub. Its enough to rattle my rear view mirror out of place. Only down side is the rear deck rattles like hell sometimes. The speakers arnt screwed in yet its such a tight space im gona have to try to drill holes from the bottom through the sheet metal and put a locknut and bolt through them i think. Then will lay some dynomat pieces to help dampen things a bit. Once thats done im sure it will sound even better.

I took it to the stereo shop when i had it first hooked up to see if i did something wrong or the problem is my amp is underpowered but they just laughed at said its just the way my speakers are. Now that i hooked everything up myself right i kinda wana go back and prove to them.

My only question is what should my HP and LP filters be set for. The deck is set at 80hz and i just set my LP to the same to match the deck. And my hp is set for 80hz as well.

[YarisSedan]

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/speakers.jpg

Its ghetto wired right now I didnt have any terminal ends so just twisted it around the connectors for right now.

[sleey0]

Interesting.

I would have went with some good 6x9's and a dedicated sub, but that's just me.

[YarisSedan]

Interesting.

I would have went with some good 6x9's and a dedicated sub, but that's just me.

Ideally with a large budget and trunk space that would be the way to go.

Ive read over and over again by many people on the forum that its better to spend money on good strong front components and that money spent on 6x9 rear speakers is just a waste. I do have strong components in the front and i drove around for almost a month with no rear speakers and i dont miss them.

Right now im happy to have all my available trunk space no significant added weight and fill in that low end that was missing.

[Ranger SVO]

Good to know i can just plop them in and call it a day. Only thing im worried about now is my rear deck rattaling like hell. I have some generic dynomat i think its called B-quite but the glue dosnt seem to stick very well i did my trunk i my other car and the stuff just started to fall off after awile and cause more rattles.

What would you recomend thats really good. I dont think price is much of a issue sine ill be doing just a small area ill only need a few feet.

Try some eDead 80. It really is good stuff and the price is right. Its sold by the square foot. Just buy what you need.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=786

[sleey0]

Ideally with a large budget and trunk space that would be the way to go.

Ive read over and over again by many people on the forum that its better to spend money on good strong front components and that money spent on 6x9 rear speakers is just a waste. I do have strong components in the front and i drove around for almost a month with no rear speakers and i dont miss them.

Right now im happy to have all my available trunk space no significant added weight and fill in that low end that was missing.

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

[YarisSedan]

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

I do have rear speakers still they are just better at providing mids and lows.

[talnlnky]

I understand, but saying that the rear speakers are insignificant is pretty short-sighted, IMO.

Rear speakers do have a use - too provide the mids and some low-end to the audio.

Everyone has there own opinion on this but after doing/hearing many systems, I believe that rears do in fact make a difference.

his comps do the mids & highs... the 6x9 TB subs do the lows... and much more lows than any 6x9" speaker can do that isn't a dedicated sub.

frankly, the location of a speaker in a car has less bearing on how high or low it can play compared to the way the speaker was designed/built. The 6x9's he bought were designed to play as subs... he should have a decent setup here once he gets the rear deck rattles fixed.


Yarissedan - when you mount your speakers put something like this (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-300) on the backside of the mounting ring of the speakers. It's a sticky butyl-rubber/chewed gum like textured stuff that is great for sealing holes and getting rid of vibration when mounting speakers. You could also cut some thin strips of dynamat/deadener and stick it in the same place and get a similar result.

Deadener will help a lot on that rear deck, put it on the flat surfaces, those are the most important parts as they are the weakest points, curved metal is strong due to the curves/bends.

As for the x-over setting... 80hz is a good for the speakers, and i'd say play around with the sub settings... I'd personally drive around for a week at a different setting, try about three different settings and see which you like best. 80hz is probably where I would recommend you start at for the low pass since you don't have a dedicated midbass driver. I'd then try 90hz, then 100hz. and maybe a 120hz.

A high crossover will give you more midbass, which may or may not be a good thing. Everybody has different ears, so play around and see what you like. I personally like a very strong midbass region, but I don't like to hear it coming from the back... that's just me, and I don't have to listen to your system everyday, so go tweak.

[YarisSedan]

his comps do the mids & highs... the 6x9 TB subs do the lows... and much more lows than any 6x9" speaker can do that isn't a dedicated sub.

frankly, the location of a speaker in a car has less bearing on how high or low it can play compared to the way the speaker was designed/built. The 6x9's he bought were designed to play as subs... he should have a decent setup here once he gets the rear deck rattles fixed.


Yarissedan - when you mount your speakers put something like this (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-300) on the backside of the mounting ring of the speakers. It's a sticky butyl-rubber/chewed gum like textured stuff that is great for sealing holes and getting rid of vibration when mounting speakers. You could also cut some thin strips of dynamat/deadener and stick it in the same place and get a similar result.

Deadener will help a lot on that rear deck, put it on the flat surfaces, those are the most important parts as they are the weakest points, curved metal is strong due to the curves/bends.

As for the x-over setting... 80hz is a good for the speakers, and i'd say play around with the sub settings... I'd personally drive around for a week at a different setting, try about three different settings and see which you like best. 80hz is probably where I would recommend you start at for the low pass since you don't have a dedicated midbass driver. I'd then try 90hz, then 100hz. and maybe a 120hz.

A high crossover will give you more midbass, which may or may not be a good thing. Everybody has different ears, so play around and see what you like. I personally like a very strong midbass region, but I don't like to hear it coming from the back... that's just me, and I don't have to listen to your system everyday, so go tweak.

Thanks for the advise. I actually bought fatmat on ebay already few minutes before i read your post. Seemed to have decent reviews was 20 bucks shipped for 10 foot roll which is more than plenty for what i need. I plan to double it up around the mating surface of the subs. I noticed some areas there is a gap it dosnt sit 100 percent flush. I might have to take a dremel and widen the hole just a slight slight tad. I think the fatmat too will help cover up all the holes in the deck cause there are quite a few and make the bass a little better.

Also any leftover i can put a small amount around the door speakers as they do rattle the door panels a tiny bit as well. I located it mostly to the portion where you can put your water bottle in place its a seperate piece of plastic thats slid int a slot in the door if that makes sense. I am thinking of putting a bead of silicon where they mate to dampen the vibration it makes.

[YarisSedan]

What do you think about using one of these?

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/SPEAKER_BAFFLE_6x9_PLASTIC_HARDER_p_1583.html