Buying a new 2010 Yaris 3dr Liftback

[Ryude]

I have a choice between a base model or a Sport Package, for the money is it worth it go to with the Sport Package?

Things I really want are tachometer, cruise control, and comfortable seats. Don't really care about looks or fancy cd player.

[STC]

I have a choice between a base model or a Sport Package, for the money is it worth it go to with the Sport Package?

Things I really want are tachometer, cruise control, and comfortable seats. Don't really care about looks or fancy cd player.

You should go with the power package then! You can get CC as an option with it and the tach is included. IMHO... the seats are still comfortable in the convenience or power packages. It's a cheaper way to go...

Cheers! :smile:

[Ryude]

You should go with the power package then! You can get CC as an option with it and the tach is included. IMHO... the seats are still comfortable in the convenience or power packages. It's a cheaper way to go...

Cheers! :smile:

Thanks! Looks like i can get a power package for $1000 more so not a bad deal.

[zachryboles]

too each his own.... i say it isnt worth the price since another forum member is adding a tach to our vehicles soon for around 100 bucks in the place of the clock.... as far as power doors and windows ive never liked them. for the 900 bucks your saving you could add better parts yourself but again to each his own.

[Ryude]

Okay so I had the dealer locate the color, model, and trim I wanted. However, there are a lot of weird packages and options that really bumped up the price.

What do you think I could talk him down to that is reasonable?

I want it to be at least $14,000 if not under that.

[STC]

Okay so I had the dealer locate the color, model, and trim I wanted. However, there are a lot of weird packages and options that really bumped up the price.

What do you think I could talk him down to that is reasonable?

I want it to be at least $14,000 if not under that.

$14,898 is the MSRP or sticker/list price for that vehicle. You should never base the price on MSRP, but instead Factory Invoice. Get the VIN# for that particular car to see the Invoice Price! Then bargain with the dealer at Invoice price to buy. Of course, know what customer incentives (rebates) have been applied. The dealer is still making out if you get it below invoice. Hidden Dealer incentives and holdbacks that the customer doesn't know about are the reason!

I bought last year my 2010 3-dr 5-speed, All-weather package, Convenience package, tachometer, and mats.

For that specific car:
MSRP: $14,328
Invoice: $13,736

I bargained down on Invoice to $12,736 and got it at that price. 5% below Factory invoice. Helped knowing of the dealer holdbacks. No-trade, rebate applied (2%).

Don't forget all the taxes and fees. With sales tax, doc fees, registration the car price came to $13,500 OTD.

Cheers! :smile:

[gia_LA]

where do you get information regarding all the dealership rebates and the factory invoice price?

[Ryude]

where do you get information regarding all the dealership rebates and the factory invoice price?

I just asked my salesman and he gave it to me. Invoice is 11,995 plus destination fee, minus 2% of base MSRP holdback. This invoice price does not include the installed options, but even with those it should only be about $1000 over that price.

[STC]

where do you get information regarding all the dealership rebates and the factory invoice price?

Edmunds (http://www.edmunds.com/) or Kelley Blue Book (http://www.kbb.com/) are great sites to find. A lot of navigating, but if you have the time... well worth it. You can lock in the actual VIN # of a specific car and compare the invoice price to what the salesman is saying.

Specific (regional) info can be gained by Toyota website. Toyota Holdback is 2% across the board. There are other dealer incentives that the buyer is not aware of! These can amount 5% to 8% more. That is why getting a car 5% to 10% under Factory Invoice... is closer to Dealer Invoice. You are then bargaining now for fair market value. Mind you, these % are all relevent to Toyota car class (models), supply & demand, and regions.

Also, question everything that a salesman says! The secret is to know when to talk and when to stay quiet. Years ago, one of my roommates worked as a new car salesman for Nissan. He told me everything about his job. He told me they all BS you. They are out there to make money and lie to you. Suffice it to say, he had to leave for the moral aspect of his job...

Good luck!

[STC]

I just asked my salesman and he gave it to me. Invoice is 11,995 plus destination fee, minus 2% of base MSRP holdback. This invoice price does not include the installed options, but even with those it should only be about $1000 over that price.

Use the VIN# and get the Factory Invoice for the base plus the options of that vehicle, include the DF. Get from the dealer the full (w/options) Factory Invoice, including the Destination Fee. Compare...

The dealer should not be holding out the options. The options are the killer. Find out the complete cost. Work from there... :smile:

Good luck!

[Ryude]

You can lock in the actual VIN # of a specific car and compare the invoice price to what the salesman is saying.

I see nowhere to type in the VIN on either site.

[STC]

I see nowhere to type in the VIN on either site.

Ooops... my bad! CarsDirect.com.. :smile:

[Ryude]

Ooops... my bad! CarsDirect.com.. :smile:

It's not there either.

[STC]

It's not there either.


Are you a member? Fees are required by most VIN Checks. It will cost you...

This might help... NADA offers free VIN Check New, Pre-Owned Certified, or Used. :smile:
http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/Research-Center

Good luck!

[Ryude]

So there is no free VIN invoice website?

[STC]

So there is no free VIN invoice website?

The NADA website offers free VIN Check... did you see the 'button' in 'Autos' tab on the left saying 'AutoCheck' ... Free VIN check?

The one I used last year for my car purchase I got three (3) VIN Checks for $30 bucks... I compared two other cars ... took the Yaris! :smile:

[Ryude]

The NADA website offers free VIN Check... did you see the 'button' in 'Autos' tab on the left saying 'AutoCheck' ... Free VIN check?

The one I used last year for my car purchase I got three (3) VIN Checks for $30 bucks... I compared two other cars ... took the Yaris! :smile:

It says free but it isn't free...

[STC]

Bummer! Then I guess they all take a fee...

[Ryude]

Bummer! Then I guess they all take a fee...

Ya, but it seems like most sites tell me $13,800 is the number to aim for and then negotiate from there. So I will see if I can get them to come down to $13,500 or if not throw in a free cruise install :thumbup:

[STC]

Ya, but it seems like most sites tell me $13,800 is the number to aim for and then negotiate from there. So I will see if I can get them to come down to $13,500 or if not throw in a free cruise install :thumbup:

I would guestimate from that MSRP sticker you showed that the compete factory invoice would be around $14,000 to $14,200... :iono: The only way to tell is get an web invoice check... but they are not free! Or requested the complete invoice (with options) from the dealer... :smile:

$13,800 is a good number to aim for if the Factory Invoice is more than $14,800. I would go with a very low ballpark amount at the low $12,200's mark... at least $2,000 below invoice. Then see what you can bargain for. If you set it at $13,500 and the invoice is actually at say $14,000... then you don't have a large window to negotiate. You need to find the actual invoice price... you can then determine the estimated dealer cost (dealer invoice) and adjust the Toyo Holdback at 2% to it. I'm actually saying this if there is no customer rebates/incentives and no trade-in. If there is? That is a whole different ballpark...

Just a suggestion... :smile:

[Ryude]

I would guestimate from that MSRP sticker you showed that the compete factory invoice would be around $14,000 to $14,200... :iono: The only way to tell is get an web invoice check... but they are not free! Or requested the complete invoice (with options) from the dealer... :smile:

$13,800 is a good number to aim for if the Factory Invoice is more than $14,800. I would go with a very low ballpark amount at the low $12,200's mark... at least $2,000 below invoice. Then see what you can bargain for. If you set it at $13,500 and the invoice is actually at say $14,000... then you don't have a large window to negotiate. You need to find the actual invoice price... you can then determine the estimated dealer cost (dealer invoice) and adjust the Toyo Holdback at 2% to it. I'm actually saying this if there is no customer rebates/incentives and no trade-in. If there is? That is a whole different ballpark...

Just a suggestion... :smile:

The salesman showed me on paper that he will do $12,160 for the base and then whatever it costs to add the options. Options are $1700 so $13,800 is what they told me the price is before I even started haggling.

Well I am military so I get $500 rebate, and I doubt I will be approved for 0% APR so I also get $1000 cash back. $1500 in customer rebates and I am trading in a car plus about $2000 down payment.

[Revsson]

Well I am military so I get $500 rebate, and I doubt I will be approved for 0% APR so I also get $1000 cash back. $1500 in customer rebates and I am trading in a car plus about $2000 down payment.

On Independence Day, I want to thank you for your service in keeping this
country FREE and SAFE! Good luck with the buying process.

[Billiam]

I don't know if the "Sport" package is worth the extra $$$. But unless you're a minimalist, I'd at least spring for the "power pack". The pwr. windows, locks, keyless entry and cruise make for a more pleasant experience, IMHO.

[Ryude]

On Independence Day, I want to thank you for your service in keeping this
country FREE and SAFE! Good luck with the buying process.

You're very welcome :)

And thank you!