Airbag light won't turn off

[dubgil]

anyone had this problem?
I have a 2007 Sedan. initially the Airbag light would turn on, go away, come back on, now it's permanently lit.

(i'm refering to the airbag indicator under the spedometer)

the airbag has never deployed...

anyone?

[CTScott]

There are many reasons why it could be on. You can get the SRS ECU to report the DTC, (which will point to where in the system the problem lies), by following this procedure:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=499567&postcount=6

[dubgil]

There are many reasons why it could be on. You can get the SRS ECU to report the DTC, (which will point to where in the system the problem lies), by following this procedure:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=499567&postcount=6

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! total newbie here, laymans terms? I need a CODE device I take it, one of them things that tells me error codes...
sorry I should have mentioned I'm nooB...

[CTScott]

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! total newbie here, laymans terms? I need a CODE device I take it, one of them things that tells me error codes...
sorry I should have mentioned I'm nooB...

The SRS ECU is the computer for the airbags.

DTCs are Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

The SRS ECU won't report its codes to a normal diagnostic scanner - It will only talk to a Toyota specific test tool. But, by jumping two pins together on the DLC3 (the diagnostic connector under the dash, next to the hood pop lever) you can get the SRS ECU to flash the airbag light in a pattern that will indicate the numeric code(s) for the problem(s).

If you aren't comfortable with jumping the pins, then your only real option is to go to the dealer and have them read the codes for you.

[spookybathtub]

This happened to me a few months back. (2007 manual 3dr)
I did the old "OBDII port jumper" trick and found the trouble code. From there, I looked up the code in the official service manual, and followed the flowchart to find the problem. I eventually traced it down to the spiral cable in the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it broke; I've never even thought about taking off the wheel. But after this happened, I took it all apart, and was lucky enough to find a spiral cable assembly in a junkyard, soldered it in, and my airbag light has been off for several months now. Saved myself $250 over a pro repair :smile:

There are numerous other things that could cause your light to be on, but with the error code, the flowchart, and a lot of patience, you can certainly solve it yourself.

By the way, the service manual is an invaluable resource for any kind of mods or repairs. You can find it here in pieces: http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/
or here as a torrent: http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/3523756/2007_Toyota_Yaris_Service_Manual

[Vioz]

My light is on too as well, its been on for months already I have to get it fixed :/

[andruboz]

I checked mine today and i swear the dtc is 3251 but under the srs section of the manual on etimago's site there is no 3251 code for srs.

the dealer wants $99 just to put the code reader on it. would sure like to know more for less..

And i need mine figured out by next week when my inspection sticker expires..
I shoulda been working on this months ago.

[CTScott]

I checked mine today and i swear the dtc is 3251 but under the srs section of the manual on etimago's site there is no 3251 code for srs.

the dealer wants $99 just to put the code reader on it. would sure like to know more for less..

And i need mine figured out by next week when my inspection sticker expires..
I shoulda been working on this months ago.

51 is an abbreviated code for the flashing light method. Four DTCs can be associated with 51:

DTC B1800/51 Short in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1801/51 Open in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1802/51 Short to GND in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1803/51 Short to B+ in Driver Side Squib Circuit

Basically saying that there is most likely an issue with the spiral cable.

[andruboz]

or would that be 2 codes a 32 and a 51???

because 51 has something to do with the spiral wire like Spooky's.

and 32 would be a floor wire..maybe a connection loose under a seat?


thnx Scott. forgot to look before i posted..

[CTScott]

or would that be 2 codes a 32 and a 51???

because 51 has something to do with the spiral wire like Spooky's.

and 32 would be a floor wire..maybe a connection loos under a seat?


thnx Scott. forgot to look before i posted..

That's correct - Two separate two digit codes - 32 & 51

[andruboz]

if i was sure it was the spiral cable- i guess i'd just buy a whole steering column and swap the wire. looks like its $75 for a column and $25 shipping on ebay. but then if its delicate i might pay $100 for a spiral cable just as broke. what a conundrum.

[CTScott]

if i was sure it was the spiral cable- i guess i'd just buy a whole steering column and swap the wire. looks like its $75 for a column and $25 shipping on ebay. but then if its delicate i might pay $100 for a spiral cable just as broke. what a conundrum.

It's easy enough to test it out using a multimeter, before you drop any cash on it.

[andruboz]

oofda. this is the quote from the discount parts place:

Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8430622010 $275.02 $0.00 $214.52
Electrical - Restraint systems - Supplemental restraint system - Clockspring
Clockspring, yaris 2007 - 2010

same part # was used in rav4's in 06-08 and highlanders in 08-09.


called the junk yard. It was $75 for a column on the phone and $125 at the counter when i got there after work. :confused: :bs:

the bitch is its a closed junk yard so they wont show me the column until i pay for it and if they take the airbag off with a sawzall, they are going to ruin the clockspring in the process. got about a week before my inspection sticker expires. s'pose i better go trouble shoot it to the clockspring for certain before throwing money around.

hey, i just got a flyer in the mail for the Versa.....

[CTScott]

oofda. this is the quote from the discount parts place:



same part # was used in rav4's in 06-08 and highlanders in 08-09.


called the junk yard. It was $75 for a column on the phone and $125 at the counter when i got there after work. :confused: :bs:

the bitch is its a closed junk yard so they wont show me the column until i pay for it and if they take the airbag off with a sawzall, they are going to ruin the clockspring in the process. got about a week before my inspection sticker expires. s'pose i better go trouble shoot it to the clockspring for certain before throwing money around.

hey, i just got a flyer in the mail for the Versa.....

If you buy a used one, make sure that the driver's airbag didn't pop on the vehicle, as when it does the connectors melt.

[spookybathtub]

That's true, they melt. But that might be ok. In my case, the break happened inside the spiral itself, and the wires extending from the spiral assembly were intact. So I bought a spiral assembly from a car where the airbag had indeed deployed, cut the melted end off, and soldered my end on. I think it cost me $10.

[andruboz]

Hey Spooky, how many wires were broke? can it be patched or is it like a ribbon cable?

[spookybathtub]

Inside the spiral assembly, there is a ribbon cable containing 4 wires (or maybe it's 5). If you are familiar with IDE cables in a computer, these are MUCH thinner than that. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, but this is simply impossible to patch. The joint needs to not only be thin as a hair, but flexible, which silver/lead is not.

[devinlamothe]

Yeah I have a broken spiral cable sitting here from when I was putting on my fog light stalk. I ended up just buying a replacement clockspring and replacing it myself. It was easier and cheaper than the suggested dealer replacement of $900. I think the part by itself was around $200.

[andruboz]

score! i did get a factory cruise control stalk with the column. i'll have to read up on the C.C. diy threads before i start wrenching on saturday.

[CTScott]

score! i did get a factory cruise control stalk with the column. i'll have to read up on the C.C. diy threads before i start wrenching on saturday.

This one has all you need:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33750

[andruboz]

Woo Hoo! fixt. inspection sticker received. hundreds of $ saved . the crowd goes wild. thanks scott.

will do the cruise control stuff on another day. which scion leather steering wheel fits a yaris again? i forget. probably do both at the same time.

[victorddr]

Just brought my 2007 HB checked at a local dealership due to SRS light on.

They told me one of the cable broken!!! I guess possible is the one you guys mention about.

The Service Adviser told me the part DOES NOT covered under warranty EVEN THOUGH I purchased 2 YEAR extended warranty.

And they want $500 on that cable!!! End up they charged me $127CAD for diagnostic!!! Damn...

Then I told them I will file a complain to Toyota Canada for not replacing this cable while it is part of SRS system

which should be cover under extended warranty, then I took the car home without anything being fix!!!!!

[CTScott]

Just brought my 2007 HB checked at a local dealership due to SRS light on.

They told me one of the cable broken!!! I guess possible is the one you guys mention about.

The Service Adviser told me the part DOES NOT covered under warranty EVEN THOUGH I purchased 2 YEAR extended warranty.

And they want $500 on that cable!!! End up they charged me $127CAD for diagnostic!!! Damn...

Then I told them I will file a complain to Toyota Canada for not replacing this cable while it is part of SRS system

which should be cover under extended warranty, then I took the car home without anything being fix!!!!!

If you do the DIY that I posted towards the beginning of this thread, you can find out what the error code is and from there what needs to be checked and potentially replaced.

[victorddr]

Yea, I aware you have done a well written DIY for this issue before heading to my local dealership; however, I thought since I have already purchased extended warranty, I think should better let them fix it. Unfortunately the part itself is not under my coverage?! That's why I got charge on diagnostic; for instance if any other parts fail and cover under my warranty, I don't have to pay for diagnostic fee.

[CTScott]

Yea, I aware you have done a well written DIY for this issue before heading to my local dealership; however, I thought since I have already purchased extended warranty, I think should better let them fix it. Unfortunately the part itself is not under my coverage?! That's why I got charge on diagnostic; for instance if any other parts fail and cover under my warranty, I don't have to pay for diagnostic fee.

I would definitely fight for getting it to be covered under warranty, but in case they won't you can save a lot of money by verifying what's bad and replacing it yourself.

[transcendentalcrap]

Well after a bit of research, I found this thread and thought I'd add to it rather than start a new one.

My airbag light came on Friday while driving down the highway. What I have so far is a 51 code. I looked up the service manual and got the four possible problems:

1. Instrument Panel Wire
2. Spiral Cable
3. Speed Pad (Drivers Side Squib)
4. Center Airbag Sensor Assembly

I don't know if I'm tired from work or what but right now, I don't know what to do next. The manual is not making sense. . .:iono:

[CTScott]

Well after a bit of research, I found this thread and thought I'd add to it rather than start a new one.

My airbag light came on Friday while driving down the highway. What I have so far is a 51 code. I looked up the service manual and got the four possible problems:

1. Instrument Panel Wire
2. Spiral Cable
3. Speed Pad (Drivers Side Squib)
4. Center Airbag Sensor Assembly

I don't know if I'm tired from work or what but right now, I don't know what to do next. The manual is not making sense. . .:iono:

51 Is an issue with the driver's side squib circuit, so basically it is something in the wiring between the SRS ECU and the airbag. The most likely culprit is the spiral cable, so I would start by testing continuity between the squib connectors (with them disconnected) and the D3 connector on the steering column.

[transcendentalcrap]

Thanks CTScott! I was tired--I put the manual reference page into the pdf file thinking that would be the right page. Doh!


The yaris met a white tail deer about 10 months ago; and since the repair I've had no problems until this past weekend. Off to buy a multimeter . . .

[tada]

51 Is an issue with the driver's side squib circuit, so basically it is something in the wiring between the SRS ECU and the airbag. The most likely culprit is the spiral cable, so I would start by testing continuity between the squib connectors (with them disconnected) and the D3 connector on the steering column.

I'm now having this same problem on my '08 Hatchback. I'm getting a 3251 code. Could you elaborate a little more on where the squib connectors are, how to disconnect them, and the location of the D3 connector on the steering column? Is there are wiring diagram for this connection? Thanks in advance, Tom.

[CTScott]

I'm now having this same problem on my '08 Hatchback. I'm getting a 3251 code. Could you elaborate a little more on where the squib connectors are, how to disconnect them, and the location of the D3 connector on the steering column? Is there are wiring diagram for this connection? Thanks in advance, Tom.

To get to the squib connectors, you have to remove the airbag from the steering wheel. The D3 connector is under the lower steering column cover. The actual airbag connector is the yellow one (D18) next to D3.

The SRS section of the service manual shows how to get to both and has the wiring diagrams.
http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

[transcendentalcrap]

I am reviving this thread.

My parents liked the yaris so much,they bought one last year. Now they're car suddenly lit the airbag light. It too gives a 51 code.

I cannot find any information that states this is a wide spread problem. Any rumors of a recall or other free fix?

[CTScott]

I am reviving this thread.

My parents liked the yaris so much,they bought one last year. Now they're car suddenly lit the airbag light. It too gives a 51 code.

I cannot find any information that states this is a wide spread problem. Any rumors of a recall or other free fix?

I don't believe it is a widespread issue, but anytime you have an electrical cable that constantly flexes there is the chance for premature failure.

[spectra]

do you have a list of what the flashes mean?

My airbag light is stuck on, I have a jumper ready. But dont know what the flashes mean at this point.

[CTScott]

do you have a list of what the flashes mean?

My airbag light is stuck on, I have a jumper ready. But dont know what the flashes mean at this point.

The flashes are grouped to be two digit numbers (31, 13, 14, 21, 22, 23, 24, 32, 35, 37, 43, 45, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 73, and 74 are the possible codes you will see). The most common are 51 and 53 which indicate a problem with the primary (51) or secondary (53) driver's airbag squib wiring, which almost always turns out to be a bad spiral cable (AKA clockspring).

The list with the corresponding detection item is on page 45 of the SRS section of the service manual downloadable from here:

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

[spectra]

thanks!

Mine went out while on an off road adventure towing a jet ski along the Colorado River last season.

[kebhen]

Got this one too......Have to get it checked out first. But, I am sure it will need work..

[kebhen]

I wonder if anyone can help with this one....I have error codes 32, 35, 37 and 51. It sounds like all the wiring and a buckle sensor are gone. Any ideas?

[CTScott]

Was your car in an accident?

32, 35 and 37 are all issues with the occupant classification system (which is the system that weighs the contents of the passenger seat and determines if the airbag should be armed). Code 51 is for the spiral cable (AKA clockspring, which is the device that allows the wires for the driver's airbag to stay connected as the steering wheel is rotated).

Did you try clearing the codes after reading them?

[kebhen]

I do not know if the car was in an accident as it is new to me. I am not sure how to clear the codes. Is that when you take of the black cable from the battery for 15 minutes?

[CTScott]

I do not know if the car was in an accident as it is new to me. I am not sure how to clear the codes. Is that when you take of the black cable from the battery for 15 minutes?

No unplugging the battery won't clear SRS DTC's. You clear them similarly to how you read them with the procedure in post #2 of this thread.

[kebhen]

Also, I should have mentioned. It does not appear the car was in an accident as I checked it over. But, There is maybe the regulator in the alternator problem as well, the battery seems fine 13.6 car not started and like 15.5 or so when started. The alternator is a bit low pushing 13.6 instead of 14V which gives a trouble light every once in a while. The passenger side airbag indicator comes on when someone sits in the car etc.
Thanks for the reply - you seem like the sites godsend when it comes to trouble shooting..Thanks again.

[kebhen]

That is how I read the codes. After I turned the car off. Waited 10minutes and then went for a drive and the light came back on. Should I read the codes again?

[CTScott]

That is how I read the codes. After I turned the car off. Waited 10minutes and then went for a drive and the light came back on. Should I read the codes again?

Ah, that link in post #2 wasn't the complete one. Below is the complete one with the second portion explaining how to clear the codes. The potential alternator issue would not cause these codes to be set.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=557473&postcount=2

[kebhen]

I have to try this later as family duty prevails. I have to go to a dance recital for the young one. I will get back after this evening. Thanks for all so far.

[kebhen]

I tried the reset this morning and after I thought it was reset I still had the error code of 51, but when I turned of and went back in it was reading all the same codes. But, my battery died which leads to my three problems. I think the regulator on the alternator or alternator are bad or my battery is dieing. It's on the trickle charger now. I will get the battery checked over hopefully today to see how much life is left in it. I checked the connectors to the battery all looks good there. The battery light was flicking. But I was told by a mechanic the alterator was putting out low at about 13.6V. Problems problems.

[kebhen]

Battery was dead 310CCA. New one in and drove around the block. Still got the alternator and airbag problem - try to get an alternator (even though it might just be the regulator corroded up) tommorrow..Then back to the airbag light.

[detroiter]

what is a jumper? a paperclip?

I've had this srs light staying on for a few months now and can't figure it out on how to read it or clear it. The car was in an accident years ago and never any problem until the last few months, so i can't imagine that it was the cause of it being so long ago.

[CTScott]

what is a jumper? a paperclip?

I've had this srs light staying on for a few months now and can't figure it out on how to read it or clear it. The car was in an accident years ago and never any problem until the last few months, so i can't imagine that it was the cause of it being so long ago.

A paperclip would be fine. Basically, you just need something to make contact between those two pins.

[detroiter]

I'm going on out there and I'll let you know what I find out...


the resetting sequence is so confusing lol

[detroiter]

so it looks like i'm getting one code...a 51. Not sure what that means or if it's worth resetting?

[CTScott]

51 is the spiral cable (AKA clockspring). You can try resetting it, but chances are that you have a broken connection within it.

[detroiter]

im trying to reset it but how do you do it? i'm having a really difficult time trying to do it

And if I don't fix it, what will happen? None of the airbags will deploy if I'm nailed?

[CTScott]

im trying to reset it but how do you do it? i'm having a really difficult time trying to do it

And if I don't fix it, what will happen? None of the airbags will deploy if I'm nailed?

Getting the timing right with the reset procedure takes a bit of practice.

If you don't fix it, I believe that the airbags will not deploy, and the steering wheel one definitely will not.

[detroiter]

It seems that this code 51 is a common problem. Shouldn't something like this be covered by toyota no matter if you have a warranty or not? This is airbag/safety related and should be covered by them 100% no matter what.

It's not like someone neglected to change their brake pads or bad tires. These are airbag systems, it's not like it's a "wear n' tear" item.

[spookybathtub]

Agreed, this problem seems to happen too often. But without a recall or class action suit, I don't think Toyota will help outside of warranty. I found a replacement spiral cable at a junkyard for $10, maybe you will get lucky too. There are several compatible models and years.

[kebhen]

Ended up being a dead battery. Toasted regulator/alternator. A seat belt sensor and a spiral cable for the steering wheel. All fixed mostly with replacement parts except the spiral cable which I got from the junk yard for 125$.

[Ulisses03hd]

Hi guys, new to the forum. I'm having the same problem and I did the jumper wire trick an came out with codes 32 and 51. Any idea what code 32 is? Btw, I couldnt find the new member section to introduce myself. Thanks for the help
-ulisses

[CTScott]

Hi guys, new to the forum. I'm having the same problem and I did the jumper wire trick an came out with codes 32 and 51. Any idea what code 32 is? Btw, I couldnt find the new member section to introduce myself. Thanks for the help
-ulisses

32 indicates an issue with the occupant classification system, which consists of the OC ECU (the black box under the front edge of the passenger seat) and the 4 sensors in the seat frame for measuring the passenger's weight.

[ferruiz69]

Hello! Im new in the forum, my mother in law yaris went in a light rear accident recently. Now the passenger airbag light always is in off. No matter somebody seated or buckle up. i read this thread and i understood what to do. But i have a problem. I cant download the service manual from the link provided. Only i need to know what pin is TC and what pin is CG physical in the obd 2 conector to make the jumper. Thanks for the help!

[CTScott]

Hello! Im new in the forum, my mother in law yaris went in a light rear accident recently. Now the passenger airbag light always is in off. No matter somebody seated or buckle up. i read this thread and i understood what to do. But i have a problem. I cant download the service manual from the link provided. Only i need to know what pin is TC and what pin is CG physical in the obd 2 conector to make the jumper. Thanks for the help!

See post #2 of this thread.

[ferruiz69]

Hello scott! i went to post#2 and i found only a link. When i hit this link i cant find nothing about how to find TC and CG pins in the obd 2 conector. I apreciated if you can tell me directly to me how to find those pins in the obd conector. I checked the obd conector in the car and i dont found any pin number or letters in the conector. Thanks

[CTScott]

Hello scott! i went to post#2 and i found only a link. When i hit this link i cant find nothing about how to find TC and CG pins in the obd 2 conector. I apreciated if you can tell me directly to me how to find those pins in the obd conector. I checked the obd conector in the car and i dont found any pin number or letters in the conector. Thanks

Click on the link again - It works and shows a diagram of the connector with those pins indicated.

[ferruiz69]

Ok! now is working! i have the diagram! tomorow morning im going to make the procedure. i will let you know the results! Thanks for your help.

[ferruiz69]

Hello Scott! I followed your instructions and works perfect. I got code 32. This code was pointed to the passenger seat. Troubleshooted with another passenger yaris seat (we have 2 yaris car in my family) and found the "computer occupant detection" inop. i have luck to have 2 yaris car in my family and help me to troubleshooted more fast. Is incredible that only a light rear accident (broken rear bumber and hatchback door vent only) went broken this computer. Around 300.00 usd new in the toyota and around 50.00 dollars used and i need to fix the body also. Well i choosed the used computer option. Thanks for your help see you soon!:thumbup:

[CTScott]

Hello Scott! I followed your instructions and works perfect. I got code 32. This code was pointed to the passenger seat. Troubleshooted with another passenger yaris seat (we have 2 yaris car in my family) and found the "computer occupant detection" inop. i have luck to have 2 yaris car in my family and help me to troubleshooted more fast. Is incredible that only a light rear accident (broken rear bumber and hatchback door vent only) went broken this computer. Around 300.00 usd new in the toyota and around 50.00 dollars used and i need to fix the body also. Well i choosed the used computer option. Thanks for your help see you soon!:thumbup:

If you can get the bad one, you should send it to me. I'd really like to see why they fail when the car gets tapped in the rear. Yours is about the third one I've heard of doing this.

[ferruiz69]

When i called to the toyota to check the price they told me no matter the airbags deploy or not ,if the seat belt buckle stuck because the impact, this cause to damage this computer. For me i dont beleive this but i can say this computer is very sensitive and is garbage. The impact of this accident was light and this cause this computer went broken. About to send you my bad computer we need to wait. I dont buy yet the used computer because we have an insurance issue right now. We dont have the fault of the accident but the lady who impact me dont have insurance and no money to pay in cash. My insurance dont have collision coverage. If i decide to buy the used one im going to contac you to send you the bad one. Thanks again!:thumbup:

[ferruiz69]

Hello scott! Finally the car was fixed in the toyota dealer. They fixed the body and they put the computer to check the passenger airbag. They told me they reprogramed the system and started to work fine. No computer replacement was necesary. Thanks again for your help:w00t:

[CTScott]

Hello scott! Finally the car was fixed in the toyota dealer. They fixed the body and they put the computer to check the passenger airbag. They told me they reprogramed the system and started to work fine. No computer replacement was necesary. Thanks again for your help:w00t:

Interesting. They must have done a recalibration for the passenger seat. That is about the only "reprogramming" that they can do.

[r0m4ca3ped]

I have a 2007 Yaris coupe. The srs light keeps turning on and off. I followed Scott's write up, by the way thank you it was very helpful, I used the ODB2 jumper trick. I am keep getting 51 51 51....I had monitored it for a few mintues to see if there's any other code aside from 51, but no. I thought it was spiral cable. So, I removed it and took to the lab and used DMM and microscope to see if anything was damaged or shorted. The robin cable did not have any damages or breakage. However, there are two connector going to actual steering wheel airbag. There's an orange and a black connector. Each connector has two pins. When I used the DMM to see for shorts or open connections, I noticed that the two-pin of each connect, orange and black, were shorted together. Is this correct? Should the pins be shortaged? Anyways, when i assembled the airbag, after a few minutes, the SRS light came back on. I am not sure what the cause is now. I would appreciate any timely response. Thank you.

[CTScott]

I have a 2007 Yaris coupe. The srs light keeps turning on and off. I followed Scott's write up, by the way thank you it was very helpful, I used the ODB2 jumper trick. I am keep getting 51 51 51....I had monitored it for a few mintues to see if there's any other code aside from 51, but no. I thought it was spiral cable. So, I removed it and took to the lab and used DMM and microscope to see if anything was damaged or shorted. The robin cable did not have any damages or breakage. However, there are two connector going to actual steering wheel airbag. There's an orange and a black connector. Each connector has two pins. When I used the DMM to see for shorts or open connections, I noticed that the two-pin of each connect, orange and black, were shorted together. Is this correct? Should the pins be shortaged? Anyways, when i assembled the airbag, after a few minutes, the SRS light came back on. I am not sure what the cause is now. I would appreciate any timely response. Thank you.

51 can indicate a short or an open in the driver's side squib circuit. With the spiral cable, when the connector is unplugged the two sets of squib pins do short together.

[r0m4ca3ped]

Scott, appreciate the quick response. I do not understand what squib means. When I took the airbag out, I removed two connectors from it. There was an Orange connector and a black connector. What was interesting to me was that each connector had two pins, these stupid pins were shorted together. What was more interesting was that each pin had different color wires associated with it. Since both the Black connector and Orange connector's had their pins shorted, I thought I must be by design. But it didnt make sense as to why would Toyota use different wire but short them. Are these connectors should NOT have their pins shorted? Should I investigate and remedy the short within these connectors?

[r0m4ca3ped]

Okay, if one removes these connectors and if they short, and if the ribbon cable is free of any defects, what else could cause a code 51?

[r0m4ca3ped]

any ideas?

[CTScott]

Scott, appreciate the quick response. I do not understand what squib means. When I took the airbag out, I removed two connectors from it. There was an Orange connector and a black connector. What was interesting to me was that each connector had two pins, these stupid pins were shorted together. What was more interesting was that each pin had different color wires associated with it. Since both the Black connector and Orange connector's had their pins shorted, I thought I must be by design. But it didnt make sense as to why would Toyota use different wire but short them. Are these connectors should NOT have their pins shorted? Should I investigate and remedy the short within these connectors?

Squib is just a fancy name for the explosive portion of the airbag. The driver's side airbag has two squibs, hence the two connectors.

On the steering column end of the spiral cable when you pull the connector off the pins short together. So, you can leave that connector plugged in and check for no opens or shorts all the way back to the SRS ECU (which is located under the bottom of the center of the dash). You have to pull the center console to gain access to the connector on the SRS ECU.

[CTScott]

Oh, and another thing - For testing the spiral cable, make sure that you do so with it in motion. It might require a second set of hands, but check for continuity while turning the steering wheel back and forth.

[r0m4ca3ped]

Thanks, I will double check the spiral cable today. So, I am keep getting code 51 in a pattern and this if for spiral cable. However, today when my friend whom weighs probably 120 LB sat in the passenger seat, the airbag was off the entire time. But when I dropped her off, the stupid srs light came back on. Is there another code that I am not seeing? Thank YOu

[CTScott]

Thanks, I will double check the spiral cable today. So, I am keep getting code 51 in a pattern and this if for spiral cable. However, today when my friend whom weighs probably 120 LB sat in the passenger seat, the airbag was off the entire time. But when I dropped her off, the stupid srs light came back on. Is there another code that I am not seeing? Thank YOu

That is definitely odd. The codes relating to the passenger occupant classification system are all in the 30's.

[r0m4ca3ped]

I sat there for a while and read about 11 to 12 codes and they were all 51. I dont understand what to do now.

[CTScott]

I sat there for a while and read about 11 to 12 codes and they were all 51. I dont understand what to do now.

It might be worth having Toyota read it with the Techstream tool to see if there is better info available that way.

[El Tomas]

thanks CTScott
this post has been very helpful!!
fixed following instructions in post #2 of this thread
this is what it was:
Yaris 2008
car was involved in a light rear crash (broken bumper & tail light).
Airbag light ON, and passenger airbag OFF,

TOYOTA dealership wanted 108.00 dlls just to to pull out the codes,
and if possible another 80 dlls to delete the error codes, but they didn't guaranteed that by doing so would fix the problem

I pulled code 32 jumping terminals 4 & 13 on the OBD port
i changed this computer that is located right below the passenger seat.
:thumbup:
voilà finally got the airbag light off!
I hope this info helps others save hundreds like i did
thanks!

[Yarflana]

My airbag light (not passenger light, but the red light in the dash) has been on since I cannot remember. I could care less as long as the car runs and has no other mechanical defects.

[mnbvczxc]

I had been driving around wityh this problem for about a year now and decided to fix it with the help of your handy forum here. So I have a 2007 Yaris but could not find the service manual or even where to short the pins for a code read but the problem sounded just like the typical spiral cable thing. Here are some pictures to go along with the fix.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01089_zps072b0319.jpg
As you can see the Airbag light is on as well as the engine light, which I had just acquired in the last few days, probably gas cap or something?


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01090_zps2e23f615.jpg
actually I was hoping somebody could tell me where to look in this picture for the 2 points for reading the codes...

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01094_zpsc0ecba9d.jpg
The culprit is the white ribbon cable seen here, as expected.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01092_zpsdc980f75.jpg
A closer look at the ribbon cable (spiral cable) reveals a worn strand in the cable which has created an open circuit.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01095_zps2363bc8b.jpg
I figured that I had nothing to lose to just solder it up along with a strand of thin copper wire embeded in the solder job. The remaining wire was cut away after the pic was taken.


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/ron629/MapleRidge-20130517-01096_zps42a99eb0.jpg
So the car went back together a lot easier than it came apart. Lights out!

[CTScott]

^Nice. Did you put a piece of tape over that solder wad to keep it from rubbing through as the ribbon slides against itself?

[mnbvczxc]

I should first say thanks for all of your postings Scott, they really made it obvious what I was after. I didn't put any tape there and quite honestly I'm not expecting another 200,000 from the fix but we'll see what happens. I did though put a layer of dielectric grease on the ribbon cable just because I did see a tiny bit of it on the cable when I had a closer look at it. It did seem kinda odd that the cable deteriorated in the middle of a full length with no other real wear spots so I kinda suspect that maybe a grain of sand or salt or something fairly rough must have got in there and proceeded to grind a hole in the cabling as I turned my steering wheel day after day. The case that protects this cable has a lose enough fit to allow such a thing to happen and it does kinda explain the odd location for the break, so no more eating McDonalds fries and driving :-(. Anyhow, again I must thank you for spending your time to write out these threads for us noobs to help save some cash and get to know our ride that much better.

Ron

[swidd]

Just want to say thanks to the post, and thanks to CTScott (AGAIN) for this information.

My airbag light went on intermittently and then constantly over the past month.

I used the paperclip method to get codes: 32, 43 and 51.

Noticed that sometimes the light would be off when I started, then turn on as soon as I rotated the steering wheel, so suspected steering wheel. CTScott confirmed suspicion :-)

Bought one off eBay for $45 shipped.

Installed just now; only issue I encountered was that after removing the 19mm bolt, the steering wheel was very stiff to get off.

Checking the old clockspring with a multi meter, it seems that one of the yellow wires must be connected to the other yellow wire. One yellow wire has no connection to any pins, but the other yellow wire has connection to two pins.

Anyway, thanks to this thread, fixed the airbag light for $45! Dealership quoted me $900 over the phone: $90 to read codes, $760 to fix it if it was the clock spring + tax.

[wilbrod]

Nice picture and great fix!

I saw your question about how to short the pins. You are looking in the good area but not in the good spot. You have to look from underneath by where the pedals are to access the ODB-2 port. You don't need to remove the sunglasses drawers thing. The red square in picture is the port but you have to look at the other side of it, from below. See picture.

I must say thanks to OP for posting about the error 51. I shorted the pins, ordered a knock off clock spring off ebay and now the airbag light is off.

[misolith]

Clearing DTC after apparently resolving problem?
I have a 2007 Yaris with a DTC 51 that according to other posts on this list indicate a problem in the Clock Spring.

I just replaced the clock spring with a new one and I found that there seems to have been a short in the spring on the cables with the black connector terminal on the end of the clock spring.

I've replaced everything and there's now no continuity on the cables in the the orange or the black terminals of the new clock spring.

I turned on the car and it still shows a DTC 51. I disconnected the battery and the DTC is still 51.

Have you any other advice as to how this error might be cleared?

[CTScott]

Clearing DTC after apparently resolving problem?
I have a 2007 Yaris with a DTC 51 that according to other posts on this list indicate a problem in the Clock Spring.

I just replaced the clock spring with a new one and I found that there seems to have been a short in the spring on the cables with the black connector terminal on the end of the clock spring.

I've replaced everything and there's now no continuity on the cables in the the orange or the black terminals of the new clock spring.

I turned on the car and it still shows a DTC 51. I disconnected the battery and the DTC is still 51.

Have you any other advice as to how this error might be cleared?

I replied to your other post. There is no need to cross post in multiple threads.

[Camberix]

Just wanted to check in and report a successful clock spring replacement and SRS light fix. Thanks to Scott for your posts.

I jumpered the ODB2 port and got the usual code. I ordered a $50 aftermarket replacement clock spring off eBay, and it saved a bundle over Toyota OEM replacement. The nice thing about this part is that there is a window on the housing that show an orange tab when the mechanism is correctly centered. A removable plastic tab kept the unit centered during shipping.

The only thing I ran into was my Torx socket not fitting the factory hole on the steering wheel trim piece. Many normal 3/8" drive Torx T30 sockets are a little too wide to fit. I (carefully) took a Dremel sanding drum to the holes, and fixed that.

It's a shame that an airbag component is not an automatic lifetime warranty part. Some manufacturers warranty seatbelts for the life of the car. I hate to think what people have paid to fix this.

[gopacks12]

The SRS light comes on and stays on after I turn the wheel a few times as im driving. Once I park and later come back to the car the light is off and then it happens all over again after a few turns later.

I followed the instructions on this thread and used a paper clip to jump it and got 35, 51, 37.

I've attached a picture of the what the service manual says about these codes.
The only thing they all have in common is the Center Airbag Sensor Assembly.
Whats that?

I'm like a total rookie to this sorta stuff so if anyone out there with some knowledge or experience can help me i'd really appreciate it. Thanks!:thumbsup:

[CTScott]

The SRS light comes on and stays on after I turn the wheel a few times as im driving. Once I park and later come back to the car the light is off and then it happens all over again after a few turns later.

I followed the instructions on this thread and used a paper clip to jump it and got 35, 51, 37.

I've attached a picture of the what the service manual says about these codes.
The only thing they all have in common is the Center Airbag Sensor Assembly.
Whats that?

I'm like a total rookie to this sorta stuff so if anyone out there with some knowledge or experience can help me i'd really appreciate it. Thanks!:thumbsup:

Was your car in an accident?

35 is the seat position sensor, which is a device mounted to the bottom of the driver's side seat rail to detect if the driver is close to or far from the steering wheel.

37 is the driver's side buckle switch, which is a hall effect sensor mounted within the seat belt latch to detect if the buckle is clicked or not.

Those two giving errors would make me first check to see if the connectors are plugged in under the driver's seat.

51 is a short in the steering wheel airbag. That one is most likely due to a bad spiral cable (AKA clockspring), which is the device under the steering wheel that allows the steering wheel to rotate while maintaining the connection to the airbag and horn.

[gopacks12]

Was your car in an accident?

35 is the seat position sensor, which is a device mounted to the bottom of the driver's side seat rail to detect if the driver is close to or far from the steering wheel.

37 is the driver's side buckle switch, which is a hall effect sensor mounted within the seat belt latch to detect if the buckle is clicked or not.

Those two giving errors would make me first check to see if the connectors are plugged in under the driver's seat.

51 is a short in the steering wheel airbag. That one is most likely due to a bad spiral cable (AKA clockspring), which is the device under the steering wheel that allows the steering wheel to rotate while maintaining the connection to the airbag and horn.


Yeah my front bumber was shattered back in december (air bags didnt go off) and about a month ago i was rear ended (airbags didnt deploy either). Cracked my bumber.

When the SRS first started coming on I was looking threw the threads on here and one did say check the connections under the driver seat so i gave it a shot. I unplugged the connectors while the car was still running (i know stupid right) then re plugged it in again. Maybe thats why its showing me 35, 37.

I probably have to do that jumper trick to get rid of codes 35, 37.
Im pretty sure the SRS light is coming on mainly because of the clockspring since it only happens after a few turns of the steering wheel.

[CTScott]

Yeah my front bumber was shattered back in december (air bags didnt go off) and about a month ago i was rear ended (airbags didnt deploy either). Cracked my bumber.

When the SRS first started coming on I was looking threw the threads on here and one did say check the connections under the driver seat so i gave it a shot. I unplugged the connectors while the car was still running (i know stupid right) then re plugged it in again. Maybe thats why its showing me 35, 37.

I probably have to do that jumper trick to get rid of codes 35, 37.
Im pretty sure the SRS light is coming on mainly because of the clockspring since it only happens after a few turns of the steering wheel.

Ah, that makes sense. And, I do believe that the 35 and 37 are codes which will not automatically clear, so you will have to do the jumper trick to clear them.

Aftermarket clocksprings have popped up on ebay for around $50. I am not sure of the quality, but they are a whole lot cheaper than OEM ones.

[gopacks12]

Ah, that makes sense. And, I do believe that the 35 and 37 are codes which will not automatically clear, so you will have to do the jumper trick to clear them.

Aftermarket clocksprings have popped up on ebay for around $50. I am not sure of the quality, but they are a whole lot cheaper than OEM ones.



Yea I found one for $40 :biggrin:
Is there a DIY clockspring replacment tutorial thread on here somewhere?

[CTScott]

Yea I found one for $40 :biggrin:
Is there a DIY clockspring replacment tutorial thread on here somewhere?

Here's a video I put together on doing so:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgWSzVeILhc

[gopacks12]

thanks!
ill check it out
:thumbup:

[RagnaCaT]

Scott i got a question is it possible by changing the squib to a single cable one can use a single wire Airbag instead of a Dual cable Airbag, I wanted to change my steering wheel to one with controls but the squib and airbag are are single cabled.

[CTScott]

Scott i got a question is it possible by changing the squib to a single cable one can use a single wire Airbag instead of a Dual cable Airbag, I wanted to change my steering wheel to one with controls but the squib and airbag are are single cabled.

The two squib system is used in conjunction with the sensor on the seat rail, which detects the proximity of the driver to the steering wheel and either fires one or box of the squibs. To use a single squib airbag (and free up two wires) you would have to bypass the second squib using a 3 ohm resistor at the steering column connector.

[baseballfan416]

Rather than starting a new thread I figured I'd just ask in here...


Did the mcgiver paper clip trick and got a code 51... So for all intensive purposes this means swap out the clockspring?

Unlike other posts which received multiple codes, I only got the 51, which is my reason for clarification. Appreciate the insight(s).

[CTScott]

Rather than starting a new thread I figured I'd just ask in here...


Did the mcgiver paper clip trick and got a code 51... So for all intensive purposes this means swap out the clockspring?

Unlike other posts which received multiple codes, I only got the 51, which is my reason for clarification. Appreciate the insight(s).

51 Alone would almost definitely be the clockspring. In most of the other cases the car was initially involved in a collision, so that is why most have more than one code to clear.

[baseballfan416]

replaced the clockspring without any issues... or so I thought...

Can't seem to clear the srs code... and now I think it's blinking a new code? 53? Any ideas?

[CTScott]

replaced the clockspring without any issues... or so I thought...

Can't seem to clear the srs code... and now I think it's blinking a new code? 53? Any ideas?

You went from 51, which was a problem with the primary squib circuit on the steering wheel airbag to 53, which is a problem with the secondary squib circuit on there. Where did you get your replacement from?

[baseballfan416]

ebay, I havent left feedback yet I can file a defective part claim and try to get my money back...

[baseballfan416]

So it's for sure the replacement clock spring?

84306-22010 was the part number purchased

the part looked exactly identical in markings and quality from the one I took off, I could literally hold both up to someone and you wouldn't know which one was the original and which one was the replacement (well, at least if I would have pulled the orange alignment clip off before putting it on).

[baseballfan416]

code went off... then just came back on, same 53 code... ideas? supposedly the ebay seller has a "1 year warranty," whatever restrictions/exclusions apply I guess we will see.

[CTScott]

code went off... then just came back on, same 53 code... ideas? supposedly the ebay seller has a "1 year warranty," whatever restrictions/exclusions apply I guess we will see.

It is either the clock spring or the actual airbag, but considering that the code moved from one side of the squib to the other with the replacement, I would say that the replacement is defective.

[misolith]

What are the best ways to test if a replacement clockspring is functional?

[CTScott]

What are the best ways to test if a replacement clockspring is functional?

The easiest way is to install it and then try to reset the codes. If they do not reset then there is still a problem.

To test the clocksping with a multimeter, you want to test for continuity from the D18 steering column connector to the two airbag connectors. You also want to check for shorts between the pins.

In the picture below, you can see the four pins on the left side connector, which are the airbag squib connections. In this view they go from 4 to 1 from left to right. At the bottom of the connector you can see two additional pins with two spring metal clips above them. They are safety pins, which short pins 1 to 2 together to disable the primary airbag squib when the connector is removed. To test the spiral cable with the connector disconnected you need to slide a little piece of plastic between the spring clips and the pins to open them up. Once you have done so you can test for continuity.

Pin 4 (left most in picture) connects to the yellow/red wire on the black connector
Pin 3 connects to the yellow/green wire on the black connector
Pin 2 connects to the yellow wire on the orange connector
Pin 1 (right most in picture) connects to the yellow/black wire on the orange connector

With the multimeter you should see continuity (0 ohms in resistance setting between the two ends of each of the 4 connections).


52067

[misolith]

Thanks much. Great explanation.

It seems that this one I've tested has no faults between the conductors in the spring itself. Now to see where the problem may be.

[CTScott]

Thanks much. Great explanation.

It seems that this one I've tested has no faults between the conductors in the spring itself. Now to see where the problem may be.

If the four wires test fine for continuity end to end, next test for continuity between 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4. There should not be continuity between the pins next to each other. If there is, then there is a short.

The other thing that some have experienced is the airbag showing continuity when stationary, but then having one of the wires open when it is rotated.

[essarr]

This happened to me a few months back. (2007 manual 3dr)
I did the old "OBDII port jumper" trick and found the trouble code. From there, I looked up the code in the official service manual, and followed the flowchart to find the problem. I eventually traced it down to the spiral cable in the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it broke; I've never even thought about taking off the wheel. But after this happened, I took it all apart, and was lucky enough to find a spiral cable assembly in a junkyard, soldered it in, and my airbag light has been off for several months now. Saved myself $250 over a pro repair :smile:

There are numerous other things that could cause your light to be on, but with the error code, the flowchart, and a lot of patience, you can certainly solve it yourself.

By the way, the service manual is an invaluable resource for any kind of mods or repairs. You can find it here in pieces: http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/
or here as a torrent: http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/3523756/2007_Toyota_Yaris_Service_Manual



Hey i think i have the exact same problem... would anyone be able to direct me towards how this repair goes? how to take out the column and replace the clock spring?
thanks!

[bail_w]

Dam it! Airbag light of my 2007 yaris turned on... :cry:

Will try to get the code this weekend.

Edit: Error Codes: 51 & 43

[bail_w]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/84306-22010-Brand-New-Spiral-Cable-ClockSpring-for-Toyota-Highlander-RAV4-Yaris-/290900379882?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AYaris&hash=item43bb0388ea&vxp=mtr



Will this item work?

Nvm found my answer

[07HBYaris]

There's been a recall for this and is in the works to have the spiral cable remedied. There's approx. 131 million cars affected by this, including the Tacoma, Corolla, Matrix, Highlander, Rav4, and Yaris. Also in the faq from toyota there are reimbursement from those that have had it repaired, Reimbursement consideration instructions will be provided in the remedy owner letter. There are also two other recalls involving the yaris.

[CTScott]

Dam it! Airbag light of my 2007 yaris turned on... :cry:

Will try to get the code this weekend.

Edit: Error Codes: 51 & 43

The 51 will be solved by changing the spiral cable (and I believe that if you go to the dealer they will replace it with a current one until the new ones become available).

The 43 is odd as that is related to the passenger airbag on/off indicator, and is completely unrelated to the spiral cable.

[07HBYaris]

Scott, thanks for the jumper trick.
To my relief, my car was spitting code 51 only.
I'm @ toyota right now getting a current one installed while the recall is remedied and then I'll be back for recall replacement.
The service rep. Said that if the srs light is on, the whole srs system is down. So drive with that in mind for all those that are affected.

[Camberix]

My wife's Yaris is now on its third clock spring. I can pop on a new one in about 10 minutes, but it's a serious annoyance.

The OE clock spring lasted about 85k miles. I did the jumper code technique, saw the usual error, and replaced it with a new one off eBay. That one lasted a couple of years and about 20k miles, and the airbag light came on again. No cruise control, the usual. I just threw on a new clock spring off eBay again, and the airbag light went away.

I'm not impressed with the clock spring situation on these cars.

[WeeYari]

My wife's Yaris is now on its third clock spring. I can pop on a new one in about 10 minutes, but it's a serious annoyance.

The OE clock spring lasted about 85k miles. I did the jumper code technique, saw the usual error, and replaced it with a new one off eBay. That one lasted a couple of years and about 20k miles, and the airbag light came on again. No cruise control, the usual. I just threw on a new clock spring off eBay again, and the airbag light went away.

I'm not impressed with the clock spring situation on these cars.


Now that there has been a recall issued for the clock spring, why are u still bothering with eBay solutions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[powder puff]

I just had mine replaced at the dealer, they also did the seat track replacement also

[nookandcrannycar]

Now that there has been a recall issued for the clock spring, why are u still bothering with eBay solutions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would guess because when the part will come in = ? My understanding, after reading posts on other similar YW threads and then asking probing questions at one of my two closest Toyota dealers, is that some areas of the United States are getting the fix/remedy faster than others...those that traditionally have inclement winter weather and a high population density (pretty much the Northeast :tongue:). My understanding is that when the proper part comes in something will trigger the word 'remedy' to appear on the screen they pull up re checking the status of this issue. A local dealer put in a different clock spring for free (not the one Toyota intends for the fix for the Yaris) to reset the light and system so 'my bags' can deploy. I was told that I'll be notified when the clock spring Toyota wants in there for 'the fix' comes in, and they will swap them for free. I have yet to receive any notification (sounded like a big question mark re time frame when they did this interim fix). The person you replied to is (like me) in a 'Gulf States Toyota (distributorship) state', so may be prey to the same 'heel dragging' re the part Toyota intends to use for a 'proper' fix.

[nookandcrannycar]

I just had mine replaced at the dealer, they also did the seat track replacement also

Well, given your location, so much for my two cents :tongue:. I finally got the actual/true recall notice last week for the seat tracks (IIRC), so I'll ask about the 'intended/remedy spiral cable' having come in as well when I take it in for that fix. Perhaps they just mailed me a postcard and I just haven't received it yet.

[MoneyT8]

Having the airbag check light on is a real hazard, I'm really surprised Toyota hasn't sent out a remedy letter yet. I don't really feel safe while driving knowing the airbag may not deploy.

[powder puff]

The dealer told me they released the remedy on 10-8-14

[MoneyT8]

The dealer told me they released the remedy on 10-8-14

Oh really??!! I guess I haven't received the letter yet.

[nookandcrannycar]

The dealer told me they released the remedy on 10-8-14

:thumbsup: Released only 3 days ago...being that recent would explain why I haven't received the notification/postcard yet.

[nookandcrannycar]

Having the airbag check light on is a real hazard, I'm really surprised Toyota hasn't sent out a remedy letter yet. I don't really feel safe while driving knowing the airbag may not deploy.

My local dealership said Toyota feels the same way, and that that is why they temporarily put in a different spiral cable in order to reset the light and allow the system to deploy.

[Oki RS]

Bumping this for a thanks to Scott, searched on how to jump pins on OBDII port and saw this thread with many others where your knowledge has been very helpful. Kudos to you man!

[Gakucewich@yahoo.com]

Listen this is an easy fix , their is a sensor located under the passenger seat . It has two harness clips . Disconnect your battery completely remove the sensor out from under the seat and replace it with one feom your local junkyard . Install and reconnect battery . Problem solved. It took me 10 minutes of my life and saved me a shiv load of money . This is all your Yaris desires don't get tricked into paying for non broken parts . Trust me . Just do what I say and it will work 110 percent . Your welcome

[WeeYari]

Listen this is an easy fix , their is a sensor located under the passenger seat . It has two harness clips . Disconnect your battery completely remove the sensor out from under the seat and replace it with one feom your local junkyard . Install and reconnect battery . Problem solved. It took me 10 minutes of my life and saved me a shiv load of money . This is all your Yaris desires don't get tricked into paying for non broken parts . Trust me . Just do what I say and it will work 110 percent . Your welcome

:clap:Brilliant first post:clap:

Now how bout you take the time to read the thread and recognize that this is dealing with the steering wheel clock spring which has since been recalled.