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Old 12-30-2010, 04:47 PM   #1
dubgil
 
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Airbag light won't turn off

anyone had this problem?
I have a 2007 Sedan. initially the Airbag light would turn on, go away, come back on, now it's permanently lit.

(i'm refering to the airbag indicator under the spedometer)

the airbag has never deployed...

anyone?
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Old 12-30-2010, 05:35 PM   #2
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There are many reasons why it could be on. You can get the SRS ECU to report the DTC, (which will point to where in the system the problem lies), by following this procedure:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...67&postcount=6
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Old 12-30-2010, 05:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
There are many reasons why it could be on. You can get the SRS ECU to report the DTC, (which will point to where in the system the problem lies), by following this procedure:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...67&postcount=6
WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! total newbie here, laymans terms? I need a CODE device I take it, one of them things that tells me error codes...
sorry I should have mentioned I'm nooB...
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dubgil View Post
WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! total newbie here, laymans terms? I need a CODE device I take it, one of them things that tells me error codes...
sorry I should have mentioned I'm nooB...
The SRS ECU is the computer for the airbags.

DTCs are Diagnostic Trouble Codes.

The SRS ECU won't report its codes to a normal diagnostic scanner - It will only talk to a Toyota specific test tool. But, by jumping two pins together on the DLC3 (the diagnostic connector under the dash, next to the hood pop lever) you can get the SRS ECU to flash the airbag light in a pattern that will indicate the numeric code(s) for the problem(s).

If you aren't comfortable with jumping the pins, then your only real option is to go to the dealer and have them read the codes for you.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:24 AM   #5
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This happened to me a few months back. (2007 manual 3dr)
I did the old "OBDII port jumper" trick and found the trouble code. From there, I looked up the code in the official service manual, and followed the flowchart to find the problem. I eventually traced it down to the spiral cable in the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it broke; I've never even thought about taking off the wheel. But after this happened, I took it all apart, and was lucky enough to find a spiral cable assembly in a junkyard, soldered it in, and my airbag light has been off for several months now. Saved myself $250 over a pro repair

There are numerous other things that could cause your light to be on, but with the error code, the flowchart, and a lot of patience, you can certainly solve it yourself.

By the way, the service manual is an invaluable resource for any kind of mods or repairs. You can find it here in pieces: http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/
or here as a torrent: http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/3523...Service_Manual
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:38 AM   #6
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My light is on too as well, its been on for months already I have to get it fixed :/
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:04 PM   #7
andruboz
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I checked mine today and i swear the dtc is 3251 but under the srs section of the manual on etimago's site there is no 3251 code for srs.

the dealer wants $99 just to put the code reader on it. would sure like to know more for less..

And i need mine figured out by next week when my inspection sticker expires..
I shoulda been working on this months ago.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:14 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by andruboz View Post
I checked mine today and i swear the dtc is 3251 but under the srs section of the manual on etimago's site there is no 3251 code for srs.

the dealer wants $99 just to put the code reader on it. would sure like to know more for less..

And i need mine figured out by next week when my inspection sticker expires..
I shoulda been working on this months ago.
51 is an abbreviated code for the flashing light method. Four DTCs can be associated with 51:

DTC B1800/51 Short in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1801/51 Open in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1802/51 Short to GND in Driver Side Squib Circuit
DTC B1803/51 Short to B+ in Driver Side Squib Circuit

Basically saying that there is most likely an issue with the spiral cable.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:15 PM   #9
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or would that be 2 codes a 32 and a 51???

because 51 has something to do with the spiral wire like Spooky's.

and 32 would be a floor wire..maybe a connection loose under a seat?


thnx Scott. forgot to look before i posted..

Last edited by andruboz; 03-22-2011 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:23 PM   #10
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or would that be 2 codes a 32 and a 51???

because 51 has something to do with the spiral wire like Spooky's.

and 32 would be a floor wire..maybe a connection loos under a seat?


thnx Scott. forgot to look before i posted..
That's correct - Two separate two digit codes - 32 & 51
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:52 PM   #11
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if i was sure it was the spiral cable- i guess i'd just buy a whole steering column and swap the wire. looks like its $75 for a column and $25 shipping on ebay. but then if its delicate i might pay $100 for a spiral cable just as broke. what a conundrum.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by andruboz View Post
if i was sure it was the spiral cable- i guess i'd just buy a whole steering column and swap the wire. looks like its $75 for a column and $25 shipping on ebay. but then if its delicate i might pay $100 for a spiral cable just as broke. what a conundrum.
It's easy enough to test it out using a multimeter, before you drop any cash on it.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:21 PM   #13
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oofda. this is the quote from the discount parts place:

Quote:
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8430622010 $275.02 $0.00 $214.52
Electrical - Restraint systems - Supplemental restraint system - Clockspring
Clockspring, yaris 2007 - 2010
same part # was used in rav4's in 06-08 and highlanders in 08-09.


called the junk yard. It was $75 for a column on the phone and $125 at the counter when i got there after work.

the bitch is its a closed junk yard so they wont show me the column until i pay for it and if they take the airbag off with a sawzall, they are going to ruin the clockspring in the process. got about a week before my inspection sticker expires. s'pose i better go trouble shoot it to the clockspring for certain before throwing money around.

hey, i just got a flyer in the mail for the Versa.....
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by andruboz View Post
oofda. this is the quote from the discount parts place:



same part # was used in rav4's in 06-08 and highlanders in 08-09.


called the junk yard. It was $75 for a column on the phone and $125 at the counter when i got there after work.

the bitch is its a closed junk yard so they wont show me the column until i pay for it and if they take the airbag off with a sawzall, they are going to ruin the clockspring in the process. got about a week before my inspection sticker expires. s'pose i better go trouble shoot it to the clockspring for certain before throwing money around.

hey, i just got a flyer in the mail for the Versa.....
If you buy a used one, make sure that the driver's airbag didn't pop on the vehicle, as when it does the connectors melt.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:08 PM   #15
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That's true, they melt. But that might be ok. In my case, the break happened inside the spiral itself, and the wires extending from the spiral assembly were intact. So I bought a spiral assembly from a car where the airbag had indeed deployed, cut the melted end off, and soldered my end on. I think it cost me $10.
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Old 03-22-2011, 11:19 PM   #16
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Hey Spooky, how many wires were broke? can it be patched or is it like a ribbon cable?
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:54 AM   #17
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Inside the spiral assembly, there is a ribbon cable containing 4 wires (or maybe it's 5). If you are familiar with IDE cables in a computer, these are MUCH thinner than that. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, but this is simply impossible to patch. The joint needs to not only be thin as a hair, but flexible, which silver/lead is not.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:02 AM   #18
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Yeah I have a broken spiral cable sitting here from when I was putting on my fog light stalk. I ended up just buying a replacement clockspring and replacing it myself. It was easier and cheaper than the suggested dealer replacement of $900. I think the part by itself was around $200.
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