Fuel filter replacement

[jaimico]

I´m about to replace the fuel filter, but I just don´t want to spent $300.00 on this service on the dealer, just for replacing engine and transmition oil, spark plugs and the fuel filter, is there a DIY for replacing the fuel filter?

[eddy]

the fuel filter on these yaris are in the feul tanks and not serviceable

[CTScott]

Look at the "Fuel" section of the service manual (posted at the top of the DIY section) for info on how to remove the fuel sender. The fuel filter is the plastic mesh thing clipped to the bottom of the fuel pump in the picture below. It is removable and replaceable. The hardest part of the whole process is removing the cover of the fuel tank. Is is screwed on mighty tight and I didn't have the spanner tool, so I used a dead-blow hammer and a piece of oak to spin it off. However you remove it, avoid the use of ferrous metal tools to prevent sparks.

39578

39579

[severous01]

you may as well get a new sender and pump while you're in the tank. oh, and it's not hard to get to y on your own. about an hours time....if you can change your headlights, you can change the fuel pump

[Freedan]

I´m about to replace the fuel filter, but I just don´t want to spent $300.00 on this service on the dealer, just for replacing engine and transmition oil, spark plugs and the fuel filter, is there a DIY for replacing the fuel filter?

Can I ask why you are having your transmission fluid/Spark Plugs and Fuel Filter replaced?

If the Dealership was the one that suggested this, tell them to go fornicate themselves. Don't let the Dealership talk you into getting services that you don't need.

[bronsin]

Yeah what he said. How many miles on your car? I strongly suspect you do not need this work. Dealerships/shops are notorious for preying on the unwary. Join us and we will protect you as we fight for truth, justice, and the American way.

[jaimico]

thank you for the advise, so all I need is to get the fuel filter replacement, and no the dealer did not sugested all the other things, but I do feel the same about them, this is what I´m should replace at 80,000 km.
and again thank you for the tip.

[wrk13s]

Look at the "Fuel" section of the service manual (posted at the top of the DIY section) for info on how to remove the fuel sender. The fuel filter is the plastic mesh thing clipped to the bottom of the fuel pump in the picture below. It is removable and replaceable. The hardest part of the whole process is removing the cover of the fuel tank. Is is screwed on mighty tight and I didn't have the spanner tool, so I used a dead-blow hammer and a piece of oak to spin it off. However you remove it, avoid the use of ferrous metal tools to prevent sparks.

39578

39579

hi thanks for this info on the fuel filter but i can not find the service manual you are talking about can you please help.?

[CTScott]

hi thanks for this info on the fuel filter but i can not find the service manual you are talking about can you please help.?

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/4232-YARIS-FILES

[Microbuzz]

CT Scott is not entirely correct. The Part on the bottom of the Fuel pump/filter assembly is just the screen to keep big pieces out of the pump. The actual filter is above the screen and is the part that the pump is housed in. Here is the procedure for replacing this. I didn't change the screen, just the filter itself.
Change fuel filter 2007 Toyota Yaris
Posted 11-05-2012 at 02:02 PM by Microbuzz
There seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the fuel filter in a Yaris can be changed. I will clear this up right now. You CAN change your fuel filter and you CAN purchase just a fuel filter without the pump at a very reasonable price on line if you search a little. I live in Canada but purchased the filter from a U.S. supplier which only took about a week or so to arrive. The fuel filter is located INSIDE the gas tank and it is a little tricky to change it but it can be done in about 2 hours or so if you have any mechanical ability at all and the necessary tools. I will give a list of everything you need as well as step by step instructions. This procedure was for a 2007 Yaris purchased in Canada but it could be the same or close for most Yaris, Echo, possibly many Toyota models.

Tools/supplies required:
Pry bar (best) or large flat screwdiver. Air compresser with a high pressure air nozzle. A can of spray lubricant such as WD40. A tube of silicone seal. A universal fuel pump retainer ring removal tool (hard to find in parts stores in Canada but can be purchased on line). A 1/2 inch drive "J" bar or long torque wrench. A container such a large stainless steel mixing bowl. A CLEAN surface to work on in an open area (you will have gasoline spilling out of the old filter so don't do this in an enclosed area without ventilation). A couple of flat screwdrivers of various lengths and sizes, long needle nose pliers etc. A razor knife. A kettle (yes a kettle for boiling water but DON'T boil the water near your work station to avoid making a spark causing a fire) and an old cup to put the boiling water into.

Instructions:
First you need to access the cover over the fuel pump which is under the back seat cusion. In my vehicle I didn't need to remove the entire seat, just the cusion. First disconnect the shoulder belt from the lower buckle and set it out of the way. The back rests stay in place. To remove the cushion you can wedge the pry bar between the frame and the front of the seat and pry up. There is a U shaped part on the front/bottom of the seat cushion that clips into a nylon clip about 12 inches in on either side of the seat that will pop out when you pry on it. You can actually fold the edge of the seat up to see what you are doing. Once you have both clips disconnected lift the front of the seat up and it will disconnect from the hook at the back of the seat. Once you have removed the seat cushion, you will see the access cover for the fuel pump. Clean the area with compressed air then carefully pry up on it a bit at a time so you don't damage it. It is held down by a similar substance as a widshield and is very sticky. Try not to get dirt on it if you can. There is a covering over the electrical and a grommet going through the cover for the wiring. Remove the covering and grommet from the cover. Remove the cover then unclip the electrical connection and remove the cover from the vehicle. Set the wiring off to one side. The top of the fuel pump housing will likely be quite dirty (some little animal was nice enough to leave me sunflower seed shells) so blow it off as well as possible so dirt and debris doesn't fall into the tank. Now you will want to depressurize the fuel line so try to start the engine. It will sputter a few times then die. Once you have done this you can remove the fuel lines by disconnecting the clips and just pulling the fuel lines off. Careful not to lose the clips. Use a clean cloth to catch any drips and wrap the ends of the lines and wedge them up under the seat to keep them out of the way. You are now ready to remove the fuel pump assembly. Take the WD40 spray and squirt some around the top edge of the retainer ring. You may want to wait a while before attempting to undo the ring. Get your ring removal tool and adjust it so it fits snugly over the ribs on the retaining ring. DO NOT attempt to remove the ring without the tool, it won't happen. You may want to enlist the help of someone when you start to undo the ring. It may be very tight and hard to keep the tool from slipping off the ribs. Put your J bar or Torque wrench into the square in the removal tool, have your helper push down on the tool so it doesn't slip off the ribs and reef on the j bar. The ring should start to turn. Undo the ring until it comes off and place it to one side. Before you remove the pump assembly get your mixing bowl ready in the vehicle as gasoline will spill from the housing. Remove the entire assemly from the tank, being careful not to damage the float/fuel level sender unit attached to the housing. The hole is just big enough for the housing to come out. place the assembly in the bowl and remove it from the vehicle. Drain as much gas from the unit as posssible. More will come out as you work on it so you may want to work on a clean piece of cardboard to soak up what comes out. Make sure you are in a well venilated or open area. You can now start disassembling the pump assembly. It is all clipped together with nylon clips and very easy to disassemble. Be careful not to damage the fuel level float and sender while you work on the pump. Begin by disconnecting the elecrical connection from the bottom of the electical plug (don't attempt to remove the wire from the pump just yet) and remove the fuel line coming from the filter off the nipple on the housing. This fuel line is impossible to remove by pulling on it so take your razor knife and cut it lengthwise until it is cut through being careful not to cut the nipple itself. Be very gentle and make many light cuts until it's through and pull the line off. Undo the clip that holds the pump/filter assembly into the housing and remove the assembly from the housing. you will see a screen at the bottom of the pump that is part of the retainer that holds the pump into the middle of the filter. Gently pry the clips apart with a flat screwdriver to release the retainer and remove it from the bottom of the filter. You can now remove the pump from the centre of the filter. You may need to push gently on the electrical connecter to get the pump out of the filter. Once the pump is out unclip the electrical wire and remove it from the filter. Remove the check valve from the bottom of the filter being careful not to lose any "O" rings or spacers. There is also a small screen in the check valve. Make note of the position of all the O rings and spacers in case they come apart. check that there are no O rings or components remaining on the filter and discard it. Now you should clean all the parts. Use compressed air to blow out the pump, the screen (blow this out very well), the check valve and the entire housing. Make sure you blow out any and all the ports you can see. Check to make sure there is nothing obstructing the little flapper/one way valve at the bottom of the housing that allows gas into the housing (I had some hair and debris caught in mine). You may need a long thin screwdriver or some long thin needle nose pliers to get at it if theres something stuck there but try air first. Clean the rest of the housing as well as you can. You may need to scrape dirt away in a few places in the housing if you got some very dirty fuel. There is a little black tube (air bleeder I think) that you can unclip from the housing but DO NOT disconnect it from any of the nipples or you will damage it. Once you have everything clean you can start reassembly. Spray a little WD 40 on all the O rings and nipples as well as into the pump itself. Press the check valve into the the fuel filter, feed the electrical wire through the hole in the top of the filter, attach it to the pump and slide the pump into the filter making sure it seats on the nipple in the middle of the filter. Clip the retainer onto the bottom of the filter making sure everything fits together properly and all the clips are latched. Attach the other clip to the top of the filter and clip the pump/filter assembly into the housing. Check to make sure everything looks in place and there are no parts left over. Now, get your water boiling and have a cup of tea (HAHA, just kidding). You will notice the line coming from the filter is a hard plastic. This is very difficult to get onto the nipple so get your boiling hot water ready in a cup and dip the end of the line in it for 15 seconds or so to soften it up. then immediately press it onto the nipple as far up as you can. MAKE SURE it is running from the filter to the nipple the correct way because you won't get it off again. Connect your elecrical wire to the bottom of the plug and assembly is complete! Take the assembly and feed it back into the tank. You may want to enlist your helper again when reinstalling the unit. The housing is spring loaded so it's nice to have a second pair of hands to hold the assembly down while you tighten the retainer ring. You can also spray a little WD40 on the threads to make it easier to turn the retainer ring. Be careful to have the pump unit lined up properly and the O ring centred to avoid leakage. There is a little tab that holds the unit in place. Also be sure not to cross thread the retainer ring. If you cross thread it and damage the threads you may never get it on properly and it will leak. Use the tool to make sure it is tight, attach the fuel lines (make sure everything is clean) feed the electrical connector through the cover and attache to the assembly. Now you can test it before installing the cover. Turn on the key, wait a few seconds then crank the engine. It may take several attempts before it starts and it will likely sputter and/or stall some before it starts running. If it doesn't start you likely did something wrong or you need a pump, not just the filter but if it was running when you took it apart it should run again. If the filter was very dirty you will notice a substantial increase in performance. You can now replace the cover using silicone, replace the back seat cushion and you're done!

[ectoman]

Hi all, I'm trying to find a fuel filter for a 2008 Toyota Yaris but after ceaselessly searching to no avail, all I can find that is the closest fit but still incompatible is a BEck/Arnely which is Part No. 043-3008. This Part looks virtually identical to the original fuel filter I have but has a different fuel pump port location than mine - that's the one thing that makes it incompatible. Can anyone tell me where I can get and exact fuel filter like mine or if I can't do it; do I have any cheap options? I tried the autoparts stores and they tell me they only sell the fuel filter as the whole fuel pump/sending unit assembly for $400.00. I can't shell out $400.00 every 30,000 miles just to change out the fuel filter via the whole Fuel sending unit/Fuel pump. Can anyone please offer advice if there is that one fuel filter sold seperately like mine. I've attached a picture with original fuel filter. Thank you for any help offered. Godbless.:iono:

[CTScott]

Beck Arnley lists 043-3008 for your 08, but the EPC shows 08-11 as using a different fuel pump than 06-07, which is what the BA filter actually fits.

It might be cheaper to pick up a used 06-07 fuel pump (23220-21132), so you can use the $35 BA filter.

[ectoman]

CTSScott your reply is the answer and blessing I've been hoping for thank you brother for taking the time to impart your wisdom and help to a struggling fool as myself that could not have done it alone. Thank you brother and Godbless you.

[ectoman]

CT Scott is not entirely correct. The Part on the bottom of the Fuel pump/filter assembly is just the screen to keep big pieces out of the pump. The actual filter is above the screen and is the part that the pump is housed in. Here is the procedure for replacing this. I didn't change the screen, just the filter itself.
Change fuel filter 2007 Toyota Yaris
Posted 11-05-2012 at 02:02 PM by Microbuzz
There seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the fuel filter in a Yaris can be changed. I will clear this up right now. You CAN change your fuel filter and you CAN purchase just a fuel filter without the pump at a very reasonable price on line if you search a little. I live in Canada but purchased the filter from a U.S. supplier which only took about a week or so to arrive. The fuel filter is located INSIDE the gas tank and it is a little tricky to change it but it can be done in about 2 hours or so if you have any mechanical ability at all and the necessary tools. I will give a list of everything you need as well as step by step instructions. This procedure was for a 2007 Yaris purchased in Canada but it could be the same or close for most Yaris, Echo, possibly many Toyota models.

Tools/supplies required:
Pry bar (best) or large flat screwdiver. Air compresser with a high pressure air nozzle. A can of spray lubricant such as WD40. A tube of silicone seal. A universal fuel pump retainer ring removal tool (hard to find in parts stores in Canada but can be purchased on line). A 1/2 inch drive "J" bar or long torque wrench. A container such a large stainless steel mixing bowl. A CLEAN surface to work on in an open area (you will have gasoline spilling out of the old filter so don't do this in an enclosed area without ventilation). A couple of flat screwdrivers of various lengths and sizes, long needle nose pliers etc. A razor knife. A kettle (yes a kettle for boiling water but DON'T boil the water near your work station to avoid making a spark causing a fire) and an old cup to put the boiling water into.

Instructions:
First you need to access the cover over the fuel pump which is under the back seat cusion. In my vehicle I didn't need to remove the entire seat, just the cusion. First disconnect the shoulder belt from the lower buckle and set it out of the way. The back rests stay in place. To remove the cushion you can wedge the pry bar between the frame and the front of the seat and pry up. There is a U shaped part on the front/bottom of the seat cushion that clips into a nylon clip about 12 inches in on either side of the seat that will pop out when you pry on it. You can actually fold the edge of the seat up to see what you are doing. Once you have both clips disconnected lift the front of the seat up and it will disconnect from the hook at the back of the seat. Once you have removed the seat cushion, you will see the access cover for the fuel pump. Clean the area with compressed air then carefully pry up on it a bit at a time so you don't damage it. It is held down by a similar substance as a widshield and is very sticky. Try not to get dirt on it if you can. There is a covering over the electrical and a grommet going through the cover for the wiring. Remove the covering and grommet from the cover. Remove the cover then unclip the electrical connection and remove the cover from the vehicle. Set the wiring off to one side. The top of the fuel pump housing will likely be quite dirty (some little animal was nice enough to leave me sunflower seed shells) so blow it off as well as possible so dirt and debris doesn't fall into the tank. Now you will want to depressurize the fuel line so try to start the engine. It will sputter a few times then die. Once you have done this you can remove the fuel lines by disconnecting the clips and just pulling the fuel lines off. Careful not to lose the clips. Use a clean cloth to catch any drips and wrap the ends of the lines and wedge them up under the seat to keep them out of the way. You are now ready to remove the fuel pump assembly. Take the WD40 spray and squirt some around the top edge of the retainer ring. You may want to wait a while before attempting to undo the ring. Get your ring removal tool and adjust it so it fits snugly over the ribs on the retaining ring. DO NOT attempt to remove the ring without the tool, it won't happen. You may want to enlist the help of someone when you start to undo the ring. It may be very tight and hard to keep the tool from slipping off the ribs. Put your J bar or Torque wrench into the square in the removal tool, have your helper push down on the tool so it doesn't slip off the ribs and reef on the j bar. The ring should start to turn. Undo the ring until it comes off and place it to one side. Before you remove the pump assembly get your mixing bowl ready in the vehicle as gasoline will spill from the housing. Remove the entire assemly from the tank, being careful not to damage the float/fuel level sender unit attached to the housing. The hole is just big enough for the housing to come out. place the assembly in the bowl and remove it from the vehicle. Drain as much gas from the unit as posssible. More will come out as you work on it so you may want to work on a clean piece of cardboard to soak up what comes out. Make sure you are in a well venilated or open area. You can now start disassembling the pump assembly. It is all clipped together with nylon clips and very easy to disassemble. Be careful not to damage the fuel level float and sender while you work on the pump. Begin by disconnecting the elecrical connection from the bottom of the electical plug (don't attempt to remove the wire from the pump just yet) and remove the fuel line coming from the filter off the nipple on the housing. This fuel line is impossible to remove by pulling on it so take your razor knife and cut it lengthwise until it is cut through being careful not to cut the nipple itself. Be very gentle and make many light cuts until it's through and pull the line off. Undo the clip that holds the pump/filter assembly into the housing and remove the assembly from the housing. you will see a screen at the bottom of the pump that is part of the retainer that holds the pump into the middle of the filter. Gently pry the clips apart with a flat screwdriver to release the retainer and remove it from the bottom of the filter. You can now remove the pump from the centre of the filter. You may need to push gently on the electrical connecter to get the pump out of the filter. Once the pump is out unclip the electrical wire and remove it from the filter. Remove the check valve from the bottom of the filter being careful not to lose any "O" rings or spacers. There is also a small screen in the check valve. Make note of the position of all the O rings and spacers in case they come apart. check that there are no O rings or components remaining on the filter and discard it. Now you should clean all the parts. Use compressed air to blow out the pump, the screen (blow this out very well), the check valve and the entire housing. Make sure you blow out any and all the ports you can see. Check to make sure there is nothing obstructing the little flapper/one way valve at the bottom of the housing that allows gas into the housing (I had some hair and debris caught in mine). You may need a long thin screwdriver or some long thin needle nose pliers to get at it if theres something stuck there but try air first. Clean the rest of the housing as well as you can. You may need to scrape dirt away in a few places in the housing if you got some very dirty fuel. There is a little black tube (air bleeder I think) that you can unclip from the housing but DO NOT disconnect it from any of the nipples or you will damage it. Once you have everything clean you can start reassembly. Spray a little WD 40 on all the O rings and nipples as well as into the pump itself. Press the check valve into the the fuel filter, feed the electrical wire through the hole in the top of the filter, attach it to the pump and slide the pump into the filter making sure it seats on the nipple in the middle of the filter. Clip the retainer onto the bottom of the filter making sure everything fits together properly and all the clips are latched. Attach the other clip to the top of the filter and clip the pump/filter assembly into the housing. Check to make sure everything looks in place and there are no parts left over. Now, get your water boiling and have a cup of tea (HAHA, just kidding). You will notice the line coming from the filter is a hard plastic. This is very difficult to get onto the nipple so get your boiling hot water ready in a cup and dip the end of the line in it for 15 seconds or so to soften it up. then immediately press it onto the nipple as far up as you can. MAKE SURE it is running from the filter to the nipple the correct way because you won't get it off again. Connect your elecrical wire to the bottom of the plug and assembly is complete! Take the assembly and feed it back into the tank. You may want to enlist your helper again when reinstalling the unit. The housing is spring loaded so it's nice to have a second pair of hands to hold the assembly down while you tighten the retainer ring. You can also spray a little WD40 on the threads to make it easier to turn the retainer ring. Be careful to have the pump unit lined up properly and the O ring centred to avoid leakage. There is a little tab that holds the unit in place. Also be sure not to cross thread the retainer ring. If you cross thread it and damage the threads you may never get it on properly and it will leak. Use the tool to make sure it is tight, attach the fuel lines (make sure everything is clean) feed the electrical connector through the cover and attache to the assembly. Now you can test it before installing the cover. Turn on the key, wait a few seconds then crank the engine. It may take several attempts before it starts and it will likely sputter and/or stall some before it starts running. If it doesn't start you likely did something wrong or you need a pump, not just the filter but if it was running when you took it apart it should run again. If the filter was very dirty you will notice a substantial increase in performance. You can now replace the cover using silicone, replace the back seat cushion and you're done!

Hi Buzz I saw your tutorial on how to replace the fuel filter and I followed your advice about boiling water and immersing the black tube in it to get it seated onto the nipple - I tried this several times with no success. Is there another way you think I can get that dedgum black hose onto the nipple, what about applying heat flame to soften the plastic and then shoving it onto the nipple do you think this would work? Please let me know, any help is greatly appreciated.:iono: Or Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

[bronsin]

Im thinking open flame would be a disaster. Perhaps heating a nail which just fits inside the black tubing would work? Obviously you need more temperature than 212....but not too much.

[ectoman]

Thank you for the advice I'll try that next time, I already got the tube on albeit a little warped but it's fully snug onto the barbed male end - it won't come off I tried pulling it off it is on there good, so it should hold right?

[MUSKOKA800]

I'm thinking that if the fuel filter was meant to be changed regularly it would be outside the tank along the fuel line (old school) rather than inside the tank.
My '08 is at ~170,000 kl (~100,000 miles), has never had the fuel filter touched, exhibits no performance related issues and the pump doesn't whine (like Fords used to when there external filter was neglected).
I suggest to leave it be unless you know it's a problem or someone has dumped something evil into your tank. Besides, if the filter were meant to be changed wouldn't the Toyota dealers stock that part number. You wouldn't have to chase all around to find one.

[CTScott]

I'm thinking that if the fuel filter was meant to be changed regularly it would be outside the tank along the fuel line (old school) rather than inside the tank.
My '08 is at ~170,000 kl (~100,000 miles), has never had the fuel filter touched, exhibits no performance related issues and the pump doesn't whine (like Fords used to when there external filter was neglected).
I suggest to leave it be unless you know it's a problem or someone has dumped something evil into your tank. Besides, if the filter were meant to be changed wouldn't the Toyota dealers stock that part number. You wouldn't have to chase all around to find one.

Almost all cars have them in the tank now. Toyota does sell it, but only as part of the plastic basket assembly so that one does not have to remove and reinstall that black plastic hose, as special tools are required to properly install it.

[bronsin]

Thank you for the advice I'll try that next time, I already got the tube on albeit a little warped but it's fully snug onto the barbed male end - it won't come off I tried pulling it off it is on there good, so it should hold right?

Go with it! My nail solution is probably wrong. You need THE TOOL and practice to do the install...

[ectoman]

Hi guys I have the Fuel pump assembly put back in but started it several times but I can't get the car to start. Does the Fuel pump assy have to be charged with petrol prior to starting or can it just be simply immersed in the tank and then it would draw the fuel into the device? I'm thinking and dreading buying the whole pump assy, but i think i may have to, especially after i put on that black hose with heat, there may be a vacuum leak and not drawing fuel correctly? Well I guess I'll have to shell out that cash if I want it done right, so much for trying to go the cheap route:(

[ectoman]

Go with it! My nail solution is probably wrong. You need THE TOOL and practice to do the install...

Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.:help:

[CTScott]

Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.:help:

It is a pretty expensive tool:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-301?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3M6oBRDnnIywo5i287ABEiQAXRm7SzPjkaTP zU-EpuDAtlsCV8C6-obb_VaQdroRTeKM188aAm4p8P8HAQ

[ectoman]

Hey thanks again for your rapid responses CT!! By the way do you possess this TOOL?:drool:

[CTScott]

Hey thanks again for your rapid responses CT!! By the way do you possess this TOOL?:drool:

No. I almost bought one for a project I was working on, but ended up using fuel injection rated hose instead of the plastic tubing, as it is hard to talk yourself into buying a tool that you will only use once in a blue moon.

[bronsin]

Hi Bronsin do you know where I would find this TOOL? If so let me know appreciate your feedback sir.:help:

No. Didnt it work what you did?:iono:

MAkes me long for my 74 VW. It didnt need $82 tools to fix the plumbing...

You really dont need to be changing this filter just for the heck of it. Onky if the car doesnt run because the filters FUBAR.

[Kirill]

Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you

[Kirill]

Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you

[CTScott]

Hello,
I have Toyota yaris 1.3 vvti sol mmt 2009 (made in France).
Any body knows the part number of the fuel filter and any additional parts that recommended to replace on the way with the fuel filter.
will appreciate any help...
thank you

Toyota only lists the fuel filter as part of the entire fuel sender assembly, so you would have to find an aftermarket filter to replace it with.

The Toyota part number for the whole assembly is: 77024-0D080, but it looks like the cost is over 200 Euros. An aftermarket filter should be less than 40 Euros.

[arsenalist1]

I have tried to open this thing but i couldnt, i have taken out the whole tank but still i did not make it.. any other tip?

[CTScott]

I have tried to open this thing but i couldnt, i have taken out the whole tank but still i did not make it.. any other tip?

There are two methods (without buying the expensive Toyota tool):

1. Beat it off with a hammer and piece of wood. This will damage some of the ribs on the cap, and will be a heck of a workout, but does work.

2. Make a tool, like the picture below. I created this a few years ago and a couple of people on here have had them made, based on my design. I simply took a piece of scrap pipe, cut a piece in half, and welded the cut sections to the main piece. This perfectly catches the ribs on the cap and allows easy unscrewing and tightening of the cap:

57244

[fnkngrv]

I am one of the ones that copied Scott's design. If you do an advanced search for fuel tank tool for posts with my handle I have posted photos with measurements.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

[NEexpat]

ectoman,

So boiling water isn't hot enough to make the tubing pliable enough to slip over the nipple properly.

Raise the temperature of the boiling water.

Add salt to it.

I think for every tsp. of salt into a quart of water you can raise the boiling temp. 1 or 2 degrees F.

Or or you could try heating some salt in an oven, regular old table salt in an oven proof dish to a set temp, say 240 degrees F. stick the end of the tubing in there for several seconds and try it on the nipple. Do this incrementally so as not to damage the tubing. Test it. It may take a couple of tries raising the temp a bit at a time. That could work without damaging the tubing and getting a proper seat on the nipple.

Of course I have no idea what effect salt or a concentrated saline solution would have on the short or long term integrity of the tubing would be, I doubt it would be anything really, it would only be in contact briefly, so of course, you do this at your own risk.

cheers.


Don't ask how I know this, suffice to say I learned it in college.

[Cartel]

WTF the yaris has no fuel filter on the firewall like every car has had for decades?
I was thinking of changing the filter and found this.

this is the stupidest thing I ever saw...its in the tank?

:thumbdown:



wow thats ridiculous.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38381

[arclite]

Hi, I am a new member, this thread appears suitable for my needs, I have a Yaris Vitz 2003 1.3 L dohc 16v petrol but we have lots of sleeping policemen in our neighbourhood and things do "get a little bumpy" round here. My car started to die, all cylinders stopped firing together. Sprayed around the electrics with water repellant WDxx. Car started but died after a short spell. Started after a while but again died after a short run. Decided to change the fuel filter first!

Any ideas on the part number required to fit this model? What range of models will this part fit? I ask because there is so much 'information' out there some sense of "cross reference" will help me avoid buying the wrong part.


Many thanks for any answers to my request for help. I've gotten attached to this steady car and I do not want to let go while I know I can fix this problem.

[Pasable]

Hi,
My first post here after some lurking. I just did the fuel filter change. Since I already had the special tool from Dorman I couldn't wait to try it after reading through this thread. Too bad the tool doesn't work without some modification. The bar is too short. Fortunately I had an Irwin Quick Grip clamp that had a longer bar that would fit in the tool. This worked great and the plastic tube went on the nipple past the two barbs. I took some pics but did not take any of the tube going on. Also the tool is made for straight tubing without the little bulges so I only tightened the black clamp thing only until it securely gripped the tube.

I used compressed air to force the regulator out of the old filter which caused it to shoot out. I first put it together without the plastic spacer ring since it went flying. I noticed it later and had to take apart again.

If your Yaris has over 100,000 miles, changing the fuel filter will definitely make a difference going up steep hills and under full throttle. Don't listen to those in this thread who say this filter does not need to be changed. Just look at the dirt in the old filter.

The tool is really overpriced. It's just a squeeze clamp with with special attachments. You could probably make one by modifying an Irwin Quick Grip clamp. But don't try this job without it. The boiling water trick does not work or didn't work for me. That's why I bought the tool many years ago.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6DKrGkXu3fEA1cUr9

[Pasable]

After driving a few days with a new fuel filter, I have to say there is a big difference. Before the car drove like an 80's, malaise era econobox. Now it's like a 2000s car like it should be. I can spin the tires and there's actual torque steer when I gas it. It really feels like a new car.

Modern cars can't really be given a tune up but the fuel filter is the one thing you can change to get a big improvement. Changing the spark plugs, air oil filters, etc doesn't really do anything to improve performance unless they are really bad. Modern iridium plugs last a long time.

So I encourage everyone to do it but you need the tool or a substitute like I made in the picture. Once you cut the old tube off you need to be able to put the new one on or you're screwed.

[ex-x-fire]

Just a tip for anyone wanting to push fittings on plastic tubing, you can use a caulk gun and a wooden clamp to press them on.

[Pasable]

That's a great idea but it won't work it in this case. The fitting is part of the wide round top of the housing and wouldn't fit in the caulk gun. The best thing would be to combine both ideas and use the squeeze clamp with a fabricated wooden clamp to hold the tube.

[mirageman]

I am happy for the revival of this thread, I have completely forgotten that I probably should change the fuel filter on my 2009 which has over 250,000 miles on it. I am quite certain I will find a way to get a filter in there, but my concern is getting a reputable filter that fits a 2009 1.5 American model. I saw a Herko brand on ebay but after multiple emails getting NASA (Never A Straight Answer) answers to very basic questions, I gave up and forgot about it. I am concerned that going with a no name brand from a relatively new company, I will be left with a not-up-to-par filter with a poorly fitting housing. I am concerned about the filter media itself. I don't want to find out that it disintegrates or collapses on itself. Has anyone done this on a 2009?

EDIT: What I mean to say is, I'm a cheap guy. I'm NOT buying a 200 buck fuel pump setup to replace what should be a $30 filter. I wouldn't risk getting a new pump that might fail sooner than the oem that's currently in there. I'm looking for someone who might know a decent aftermarket filter that I can make work in my oem. Interesting on getting an 07 pump to use that cheap filter, but would rather keep my pump, you know? :-) Maybe I could somehow dig out the old filter media, leave it empty and attach an oldschool filter somewhere on the firewall. THAT would be cool.

second edit: I think I'm going to have to do this twice. My car is an 09, but made in August of 08. Apparently there are differences between 08 and 09, and sometimes my luck is good... I'm going to remove my pump soon disassemble it and take photos and put it back and just buy a filter and do it again when it comes in. I gotta clean out my back seat, anyway...

[mirageman]

The fuel pump/filter assembly has been removed today from my 2009 model year 1.5 liter American sedan which was made in Japan in August of 2008. It wasn't very hard at all to remove. I used a flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap the retainer ring off. I was excited to see the port locations (see pictures) of the main filter matched what I saw here in this thread from the other poster's 2008 model. I thought the Beck/Arnley part would fit mine, but I misunderstood his picture as being the new part. I still don't quite get it, though. I thought 2008 filters were different from 2009, but my filter looks just like the picture from the 2008 used here in this thread. I think the same guy maybe posted pictures on Amazon too for the Beck part, but the pictures of new Beck Arnley 043-3008 and oem do not say which is which, hehe... I guess I'm going to have to keep looking for filters online that matches mine. I am a bit concerned because I covered the open hole (which the wire plug for the pump goes through) and blew into the big hole where the pump slides in and all this blackened gasoline got spat out. You can see it pooling in the port in the picture and also on the white table in the other picture. That is gasoline that goes to the engine out the top... Why is it black? I could see blackened crap flowing around the inside of the filter housing when I was blowing through it too. I was able to blow through it pretty easily, very little resistance, and after all that dirty gasoline came out, it actually got harder to blow through. I've come across this with other fuel filters and am not sure of the physics behind it being easier to blow through when it is soaked, but anyway.... Putting it back in the tank was harder than taking it out. I was very concerned because the screw retainer ring thing would not seem to tighten squarely. It was looking very crooked and felt very wrong no matter how much time I spent trying to get it right.
I read about another person complaining of the same issue and saying that it works out eventually, and it did for mine too. After like half a turn, it kinda seated square, and I still can't wrap my head around it. I think when I replace the filter sometime by summer, I will try to put the retaining rign on without the pump and seeing what the heck is stopping it from going on nicely. Seeing as there is very little resistance through this filter despite it having over 250,000 miles, I am not in any rush to get a filter, but if I find one that is reasonable in price I will certainly post here to help others.

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[Neinris]

The fuel pump/filter assembly has been removed today from my 2009 model year 1.5 liter American sedan which was made in Japan in August of 2008. It wasn't very hard at all to remove. I used a flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap the retainer ring off. I was excited to see the port locations (see pictures) of the main filter matched what I saw here in this thread from the other poster's 2008 model. I thought the Beck/Arnley part would fit mine, but I misunderstood his picture as being the new part. I still don't quite get it, though. I thought 2008 filters were different from 2009, but my filter looks just like the picture from the 2008 used here in this thread. I think the same guy maybe posted pictures on Amazon too for the Beck part, but the pictures of new Beck Arnley 043-3008 and oem do not say which is which, hehe... I guess I'm going to have to keep looking for filters online that matches mine. I am a bit concerned because I covered the open hole (which the wire plug for the pump goes through) and blew into the big hole where the pump slides in and all this blackened gasoline got spat out. You can see it pooling in the port in the picture and also on the white table in the other picture. That is gasoline that goes to the engine out the top... Why is it black? I could see blackened crap flowing around the inside of the filter housing when I was blowing through it too. I was able to blow through it pretty easily, very little resistance, and after all that dirty gasoline came out, it actually got harder to blow through. I've come across this with other fuel filters and am not sure of the physics behind it being easier to blow through when it is soaked, but anyway.... Putting it back in the tank was harder than taking it out. I was very concerned because the screw retainer ring thing would not seem to tighten squarely. It was looking very crooked and felt very wrong no matter how much time I spent trying to get it right.
I read about another person complaining of the same issue and saying that it works out eventually, and it did for mine too. After like half a turn, it kinda seated square, and I still can't wrap my head around it. I think when I replace the filter sometime by summer, I will try to put the retaining rign on without the pump and seeing what the heck is stopping it from going on nicely. Seeing as there is very little resistance through this filter despite it having over 250,000 miles, I am not in any rush to get a filter, but if I find one that is reasonable in price I will certainly post here to help others.

TLDR... Have you checked RockAuto.com?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2009,yaris,1.5l+l4,1443496,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

[mirageman]

Yes I saw Rockauto, the Delphi setup is too expensive, and that USEP12083 looks good, but it is the older style pump. They're listing it for a 2009, but it apparently is a conversion kit to the 2007 and below style. I wouldn't be able to just take the filter from that since the port is wrong. 2008 and up ports are off center while the 2007 and below have it in the middle. I won't buy an unknown brand aftermarket pump, one too many failures in another vehicle (Thank God it failed at my work's parking lot and not on the highway). I bought a delphi pump/filter for a Dodge Caravan, very expensive and still seems to make different uneasy whining noises...works fine though, going on 3-4 years, but I really don't want to spend that kind of money anyway. I just want the big tube filter and perhaps the pre-screen thing. I saw a chinese brand on ebay, and questioned him about "aty parts" filters and he responded almost immediately from China promising oem quality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363942219778?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=8e989ae65f6d467488de5fb3bc960bc6&bu=43206069375&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20230306182623&segname=11051

I don't know... googling the part numbers from that ebay listing show other suppliers, too and other brands compatible. It will take some googling for sure to find something I think I can trust. I'm sure China can make a good fuel filter, it might be a fine filter and the price is a bit on the high side (maybe because they're a known company over there) but it's really hit or miss when you never heard the brand here. Thanks, though!

[Neinris]

Yes I saw Rockauto, the Delphi setup is too expensive, and that USEP12083 looks good, but it is the older style pump. They're listing it for a 2009, but it apparently is a conversion kit to the 2007 and below style. I wouldn't be able to just take the filter from that since the port is wrong. 2008 and up ports are off center while the 2007 and below have it in the middle. I won't buy an unknown brand aftermarket pump, one too many failures in another vehicle (Thank God it failed at my work's parking lot and not on the highway). I bought a delphi pump/filter for a Dodge Caravan, very expensive and still seems to make different uneasy whining noises...works fine though, going on 3-4 years, but I really don't want to spend that kind of money anyway. I just want the big tube filter and perhaps the pre-screen thing. I saw a chinese brand on ebay, and questioned him about "aty parts" filters and he responded almost immediately from China promising oem quality.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363942219778?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=8e989ae65f6d467488de5fb3bc960bc6&bu=43206069375&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20230306182623&segname=11051

I don't know... googling the part numbers from that ebay listing show other suppliers, too and other brands compatible. It will take some googling for sure to find something I think I can trust. I'm sure China can make a good fuel filter, it might be a fine filter and the price is a bit on the high side (maybe because they're a known company over there) but it's really hit or miss when you never heard the brand here. Thanks, though!

My bad, I thought you just wanted to replace the strainer.
I was looking at this one:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10451516&cc=1443496&pt=6256&jsn=9

You might also want to check out the 2013 Rav4 fuel pumps. They look very similar.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,rav4,2.5l+l4,3294225,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

Actually some earlier 09 still had the old style fuel pump and housing, that's why it's showing both parts. I referred to them as 09- and 09+.

Post #23 from this thread will show you the differences, which you already know.
https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=63181

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=23

If you buy just the filter, the only difficult part would be stretching that black hose over the hard plastic, but still not that difficult. You could pour or dip it in boiling water, shake it and make sure no water is in the line, carefully widen it with needle nose pliers, and slide it right over, I believe there's a barbed portion.
Or maybe buy a plastic tube expander, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Manual-Expand.../dp/B086C8GX9T