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Old 01-21-2011, 10:24 PM   #1
jaimico
 
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Fuel filter replacement

Im about to replace the fuel filter, but I just dont want to spent $300.00 on this service on the dealer, just for replacing engine and transmition oil, spark plugs and the fuel filter, is there a DIY for replacing the fuel filter?
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:48 PM   #2
eddy
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the fuel filter on these yaris are in the feul tanks and not serviceable
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:04 PM   #3
CTScott
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Look at the "Fuel" section of the service manual (posted at the top of the DIY section) for info on how to remove the fuel sender. The fuel filter is the plastic mesh thing clipped to the bottom of the fuel pump in the picture below. It is removable and replaceable. The hardest part of the whole process is removing the cover of the fuel tank. Is is screwed on mighty tight and I didn't have the spanner tool, so I used a dead-blow hammer and a piece of oak to spin it off. However you remove it, avoid the use of ferrous metal tools to prevent sparks.

Fuel Filter.jpg

Tank - Cover.jpg
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:50 PM   #4
severous01
 
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you may as well get a new sender and pump while you're in the tank. oh, and it's not hard to get to y on your own. about an hours time....if you can change your headlights, you can change the fuel pump
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:45 AM   #5
Freedan
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaimico View Post
Im about to replace the fuel filter, but I just dont want to spent $300.00 on this service on the dealer, just for replacing engine and transmition oil, spark plugs and the fuel filter, is there a DIY for replacing the fuel filter?
Can I ask why you are having your transmission fluid/Spark Plugs and Fuel Filter replaced?

If the Dealership was the one that suggested this, tell them to go fornicate themselves. Don't let the Dealership talk you into getting services that you don't need.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:10 AM   #6
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Yeah what he said. How many miles on your car? I strongly suspect you do not need this work. Dealerships/shops are notorious for preying on the unwary. Join us and we will protect you as we fight for truth, justice, and the American way.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:41 PM   #7
jaimico
 
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thank you for the advise, so all I need is to get the fuel filter replacement, and no the dealer did not sugested all the other things, but I do feel the same about them, this is what Im should replace at 80,000 km.
and again thank you for the tip.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:49 AM   #8
wrk13s
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Look at the "Fuel" section of the service manual (posted at the top of the DIY section) for info on how to remove the fuel sender. The fuel filter is the plastic mesh thing clipped to the bottom of the fuel pump in the picture below. It is removable and replaceable. The hardest part of the whole process is removing the cover of the fuel tank. Is is screwed on mighty tight and I didn't have the spanner tool, so I used a dead-blow hammer and a piece of oak to spin it off. However you remove it, avoid the use of ferrous metal tools to prevent sparks.

Attachment 39578

Attachment 39579
hi thanks for this info on the fuel filter but i can not find the service manual you are talking about can you please help.?
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:48 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wrk13s View Post
hi thanks for this info on the fuel filter but i can not find the service manual you are talking about can you please help.?
http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...32-YARIS-FILES
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:18 PM   #10
Microbuzz
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CT Scott is not entirely correct. The Part on the bottom of the Fuel pump/filter assembly is just the screen to keep big pieces out of the pump. The actual filter is above the screen and is the part that the pump is housed in. Here is the procedure for replacing this. I didn't change the screen, just the filter itself.
Change fuel filter 2007 Toyota Yaris
Posted 11-05-2012 at 02:02 PM by Microbuzz
There seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the fuel filter in a Yaris can be changed. I will clear this up right now. You CAN change your fuel filter and you CAN purchase just a fuel filter without the pump at a very reasonable price on line if you search a little. I live in Canada but purchased the filter from a U.S. supplier which only took about a week or so to arrive. The fuel filter is located INSIDE the gas tank and it is a little tricky to change it but it can be done in about 2 hours or so if you have any mechanical ability at all and the necessary tools. I will give a list of everything you need as well as step by step instructions. This procedure was for a 2007 Yaris purchased in Canada but it could be the same or close for most Yaris, Echo, possibly many Toyota models.

Tools/supplies required:
Pry bar (best) or large flat screwdiver. Air compresser with a high pressure air nozzle. A can of spray lubricant such as WD40. A tube of silicone seal. A universal fuel pump retainer ring removal tool (hard to find in parts stores in Canada but can be purchased on line). A 1/2 inch drive "J" bar or long torque wrench. A container such a large stainless steel mixing bowl. A CLEAN surface to work on in an open area (you will have gasoline spilling out of the old filter so don't do this in an enclosed area without ventilation). A couple of flat screwdrivers of various lengths and sizes, long needle nose pliers etc. A razor knife. A kettle (yes a kettle for boiling water but DON'T boil the water near your work station to avoid making a spark causing a fire) and an old cup to put the boiling water into.

Instructions:
First you need to access the cover over the fuel pump which is under the back seat cusion. In my vehicle I didn't need to remove the entire seat, just the cusion. First disconnect the shoulder belt from the lower buckle and set it out of the way. The back rests stay in place. To remove the cushion you can wedge the pry bar between the frame and the front of the seat and pry up. There is a U shaped part on the front/bottom of the seat cushion that clips into a nylon clip about 12 inches in on either side of the seat that will pop out when you pry on it. You can actually fold the edge of the seat up to see what you are doing. Once you have both clips disconnected lift the front of the seat up and it will disconnect from the hook at the back of the seat. Once you have removed the seat cushion, you will see the access cover for the fuel pump. Clean the area with compressed air then carefully pry up on it a bit at a time so you don't damage it. It is held down by a similar substance as a widshield and is very sticky. Try not to get dirt on it if you can. There is a covering over the electrical and a grommet going through the cover for the wiring. Remove the covering and grommet from the cover. Remove the cover then unclip the electrical connection and remove the cover from the vehicle. Set the wiring off to one side. The top of the fuel pump housing will likely be quite dirty (some little animal was nice enough to leave me sunflower seed shells) so blow it off as well as possible so dirt and debris doesn't fall into the tank. Now you will want to depressurize the fuel line so try to start the engine. It will sputter a few times then die. Once you have done this you can remove the fuel lines by disconnecting the clips and just pulling the fuel lines off. Careful not to lose the clips. Use a clean cloth to catch any drips and wrap the ends of the lines and wedge them up under the seat to keep them out of the way. You are now ready to remove the fuel pump assembly. Take the WD40 spray and squirt some around the top edge of the retainer ring. You may want to wait a while before attempting to undo the ring. Get your ring removal tool and adjust it so it fits snugly over the ribs on the retaining ring. DO NOT attempt to remove the ring without the tool, it won't happen. You may want to enlist the help of someone when you start to undo the ring. It may be very tight and hard to keep the tool from slipping off the ribs. Put your J bar or Torque wrench into the square in the removal tool, have your helper push down on the tool so it doesn't slip off the ribs and reef on the j bar. The ring should start to turn. Undo the ring until it comes off and place it to one side. Before you remove the pump assembly get your mixing bowl ready in the vehicle as gasoline will spill from the housing. Remove the entire assemly from the tank, being careful not to damage the float/fuel level sender unit attached to the housing. The hole is just big enough for the housing to come out. place the assembly in the bowl and remove it from the vehicle. Drain as much gas from the unit as posssible. More will come out as you work on it so you may want to work on a clean piece of cardboard to soak up what comes out. Make sure you are in a well venilated or open area. You can now start disassembling the pump assembly. It is all clipped together with nylon clips and very easy to disassemble. Be careful not to damage the fuel level float and sender while you work on the pump. Begin by disconnecting the elecrical connection from the bottom of the electical plug (don't attempt to remove the wire from the pump just yet) and remove the fuel line coming from the filter off the nipple on the housing. This fuel line is impossible to remove by pulling on it so take your razor knife and cut it lengthwise until it is cut through being careful not to cut the nipple itself. Be very gentle and make many light cuts until it's through and pull the line off. Undo the clip that holds the pump/filter assembly into the housing and remove the assembly from the housing. you will see a screen at the bottom of the pump that is part of the retainer that holds the pump into the middle of the filter. Gently pry the clips apart with a flat screwdriver to release the retainer and remove it from the bottom of the filter. You can now remove the pump from the centre of the filter. You may need to push gently on the electrical connecter to get the pump out of the filter. Once the pump is out unclip the electrical wire and remove it from the filter. Remove the check valve from the bottom of the filter being careful not to lose any "O" rings or spacers. There is also a small screen in the check valve. Make note of the position of all the O rings and spacers in case they come apart. check that there are no O rings or components remaining on the filter and discard it. Now you should clean all the parts. Use compressed air to blow out the pump, the screen (blow this out very well), the check valve and the entire housing. Make sure you blow out any and all the ports you can see. Check to make sure there is nothing obstructing the little flapper/one way valve at the bottom of the housing that allows gas into the housing (I had some hair and debris caught in mine). You may need a long thin screwdriver or some long thin needle nose pliers to get at it if theres something stuck there but try air first. Clean the rest of the housing as well as you can. You may need to scrape dirt away in a few places in the housing if you got some very dirty fuel. There is a little black tube (air bleeder I think) that you can unclip from the housing but DO NOT disconnect it from any of the nipples or you will damage it. Once you have everything clean you can start reassembly. Spray a little WD 40 on all the O rings and nipples as well as into the pump itself. Press the check valve into the the fuel filter, feed the electrical wire through the hole in the top of the filter, attach it to the pump and slide the pump into the filter making sure it seats on the nipple in the middle of the filter. Clip the retainer onto the bottom of the filter making sure everything fits together properly and all the clips are latched. Attach the other clip to the top of the filter and clip the pump/filter assembly into the housing. Check to make sure everything looks in place and there are no parts left over. Now, get your water boiling and have a cup of tea (HAHA, just kidding). You will notice the line coming from the filter is a hard plastic. This is very difficult to get onto the nipple so get your boiling hot water ready in a cup and dip the end of the line in it for 15 seconds or so to soften it up. then immediately press it onto the nipple as far up as you can. MAKE SURE it is running from the filter to the nipple the correct way because you won't get it off again. Connect your elecrical wire to the bottom of the plug and assembly is complete! Take the assembly and feed it back into the tank. You may want to enlist your helper again when reinstalling the unit. The housing is spring loaded so it's nice to have a second pair of hands to hold the assembly down while you tighten the retainer ring. You can also spray a little WD40 on the threads to make it easier to turn the retainer ring. Be careful to have the pump unit lined up properly and the O ring centred to avoid leakage. There is a little tab that holds the unit in place. Also be sure not to cross thread the retainer ring. If you cross thread it and damage the threads you may never get it on properly and it will leak. Use the tool to make sure it is tight, attach the fuel lines (make sure everything is clean) feed the electrical connector through the cover and attache to the assembly. Now you can test it before installing the cover. Turn on the key, wait a few seconds then crank the engine. It may take several attempts before it starts and it will likely sputter and/or stall some before it starts running. If it doesn't start you likely did something wrong or you need a pump, not just the filter but if it was running when you took it apart it should run again. If the filter was very dirty you will notice a substantial increase in performance. You can now replace the cover using silicone, replace the back seat cushion and you're done!
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