Boost Gets U Laid eh? Count me In

[yaris2010RS]

***MOD'S IF THE TITLE IS A ISSUE LET ME KNOW, ILL CHANGE IT PLEASE DONT DELETE***

So ive finally got just about all my turbo together and set up, just waiting for a install date (by the looks of it install date will be the week of the Feb 20th)

so far my kit consists of:

GT2052 turbo
1zz fuel injectors
AEM FIC
PnP Boomslang harness
2.5" exhaust with HighFlow Cat
Front Mount I/C
AEM wide band o2 gauge
Autometer boost gauge
HKS Bov SSQV

*looking for oil pressure gauge
*plan this week to go out and get some new spark plugs (either 6 or 7 heat rating)
*plan for new clutch within a year

watch for FS threads with no longer needed yaris parts
*http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38255

my plan is to keep it around 4-6PSI, i plan to keep all internals stock, stock fuel pump, i do plan to hook up the water line to the turbo also

i am very worried about this install for a few reasons, first it is my DD so i simply cannot afford to be Stuck. this is y i have planned for the install to take place durring the week of the 20th, i have the week off both school and work.

i have read so much and hopefully learned something along the way but i still have a few pre install questions.

since this car wil be my DD i need to do a slow install, so i need to know what i can drive with on my car without killing something. my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before, can the 1znfe engine using the stock ecu drive with the 1zz injectors? also i plan to gap my spark plugs at .032 im assuming this will not be a problem to have.

another issue im not sure about is the oil lines. YES i know i need to tap the block for oil return line, but what about the oil feed line? i havent seen many threads with this discussed. i have recently seen a few people with the sandwich adapter, is this the only way or can i get feed from anywhere?

the vacuum line for the BOV, where does it go?

FITTINGS, is there a special grade of fittings i need to shop for? i dont like shopping for these things online, id like to find them locally, anyone know of some stores to start at for looking for fittings?

something else that has lapsed my mind till now, what is the purpose to wrap the turbo? is this important or not? what is the reason

[Pur_Blu]

good luck on the install seems u got the right parts for a safe install of course tuning once installed is a must for any turbo. Any pics of the parts. Im sure we've all seem it a thousands times but for me it never gets old.

[xixarchangelxix]

Hit me up if you need any help

[cali yaris]

You only have two weeks to source the rest of the parts? Hmmm...

1. What psi is the spring in the turbo, assuming you have an internal wastegate?
2. What reasoning led you to that spark plug gap?
3. I don't see manifold, downpipe, or any piping on your list. What's up with that?

You can grab an oil line from the oil pressure sensor exit.

since this car wil be my DD i need to do a slow install, so i need to know what i can drive with on my car without killing something. my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before

This is worrisome. You WILL have some downtime turbo-ing a Toyota Yaris at some point. Period. Further, injectors and plugs save maybe 20-30 minutes on your install Doing that as a separate mod beforehand is not helpful.

Got more questions?

[yaris2010RS]

Thanks Garm,

i got a custom maifold made at a friends shop (his dad shop rebuilds classic cars) and i also got the downpipe and full exhaust with high flow cat partly fabricated 2.5"mandrel bent (enough for me to put it all on my car and then take it there later for "adjustments")

lol, i got the gap size from the other threads ive read, turbo members complained with the bigger gap they were missing.

for the the I/C piping, i have a shit-ton of aluminum pipe 2.25", some straight, some 90's and even more black silicone fittings with crome clamps.

[ilikerice]

I highly do not recommend doing this project without another form of transportation. Speaking from experience, even having a shop doing the work, may take longer than just 2 weeks. I say this because they will not be working on your car "alone". They will have other cars that are quick and easy money compared to a modified yaris which will give them headaches if this is thier first turbo yaris.

You need to have alot of time, patience and mechanically inclined to really take on this yourself in 2 weeks also. Even if archangel is going to be there step by step.

I am just saying the chances of this going smooth and simple are slim. You may be one of the rare exceptions though. By all means, I dont know your personal situation, but if this is your DD and you plan on doing this in 2 weeks, expect some road blocks. Keep in mind you will probably have to run to the part store a few hundred times for misc. items.

you will have to learn AN and NPT fittings, which is which.

People use heat wrap on thier turbo and piping to reduce engine bay temps. being that the ECU is bolted to the fire wall next to the exhaust could potentially do some damage. turbo's build up ALOT of heat.

[yaris2010RS]

thanks, ilkierice (lol finally understood your mane when i was writing it)

ive assisted with turbo installs before but that was just as a helping hand. also dont get me wrong ive been getting ready for this for about a year now, also have had the turbo sitting in my basement for about a year and is basically all built and mocked up. i realize i will have mistakes and i will need to run out to the store many many times.

when i say this is my DD and only car it is, but i live with my mom and step dad, ill have access to another car if needed for a quick run to the store, i can also work out carpooling if needed to get to work or school. its just something i dont want to do but i have planned for it. also if need be and its not snowing or raining or stupid cold i could run over to the parts store on my bike.

i will have to find some heat wrap soon too, thanks

only reason this didnt get installed sooner was cuz we sold our house and we were renting for a while till our new house was built, we moved in Jan 20th and ive been like a fat kid wanting chocolate for this

i want this, i want this bad, almost like i need it

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Without even reading this thread: yes.

Now onto business.
my plan is to keep it around 4-6PSI, i plan to keep all internals stock, stock fuel pump, i do plan to hook up the water line to the turbo also
Ok.

i am very worried about this install for a few reasons, first it is my DD so i simply cannot afford to be Stuck. this is y i have planned for the install to take place durring the week of the 20th, i have the week off both school and work.
Not Ok. Be prepared to use alternate transportation. I hate to say it but things will go wrong. You can read all you like, but unforeseeable things will happen.

my plan was to install the fuel injectors and spark plugs the weekend before, can the 1znfe engine using the stock ecu drive with the 1zz injectors? also i plan to gap my spark plugs at .032 im assuming this will not be a problem to have.
Sure can. The ECU will adjust fuel trims to account for a smaller gap and larger injectors.

another issue im not sure about is the oil lines. YES i know i need to tap the block for oil return line, but what about the oil feed line? i havent seen many threads with this discussed. i have recently seen a few people with the sandwich adapter, is this the only way or can i get feed from anywhere?
Just use the sandwich adapter. It's by far the most simple solution. Plus you can put senders for gauges there also.

the vacuum line for the BOV, where does it go?
Anywhere that receives manifold pressure. Tap it right into the vacuum line that stems off the manifold.

FITTINGS, is there a special grade of fittings i need to shop for? i dont like shopping for these things online, id like to find them locally, anyone know of some stores to start at for looking for fittings?
Home Depot, Lowes, Sears hardware, etc. I agree buying fittings online is difficult, and I haven't had any problem with any of my fittings.

something else that has lapsed my mind till now, what is the purpose to wrap the turbo? is this important or not? what is the reason
I think this was already answered. I wouldn't worry about it too much tbh. Yes the turbo increases engine bay temps but it's really no cause for concern.

One last thing:
i want this, i want this bad, almost like i need it
Good attitude but not quite. You don't want this. You NEED this.

Good luck.

[Yoda]

Just got the cliff notes. Here is my input.
Proper planning and it can be installed in a day. Thats how long it took me but I planned and mapped out evey step for a week. I did this on my DD and could only be out of work for 3 days. Things will go wrong yes, but having a proper detailed plan in place helps out alot. When i mean detailed I am talking about having it down to how many and what type of bolts go where, washers, gaskets, piping route, ect.
As far as something going wrong down the line, yes count on that and it can not be avoided.

[ilikerice]

sounds like you are ready. I wish you the best of luck.. I am jealous just the fact that you have all your stuff sitting at your feet.

[cali yaris]

1. What psi is the spring in the turbo, assuming you have an internal wastegate?

Didn't answer this, and I'd like to see the manifold, please. :smile:

[yaris2010RS]

i was told the spring was set to ~7psi but unless i can verify this im not really gonna trust it. once its on im hoping to play with the wastegate preload till i can verify it will remain in the rage of 4-6

[TURBO YARIS]

You cannot run less boost than what the waste gate spring is unless you modify the waste gate hole to be larger. So if the waste gate is 7 psi that is the least amount of boost you can run.

[Yoda]

You cannot run less boost than what the waste gate spring is unless you modify the waste gate hole to be larger. So if the waste gate is 7 psi that is the least amount of boost you can run.

^^^ This. Its also very easy to port the hole larger.

[cali yaris]

That's what I was headed for. Good help around here. :smile:

[yaris2010RS]

like i said its believed to be "set" to ~7, not sure what the base spring rate is

[yaris2010RS]

update:

so far I/C and piping has gone into the car and im running my intake through the I/C and it appears my car has more balls and my fuel efficency has gone up quite a bit (appears to be an 11% imporvement, proven on 2 tanks, mix of city, hwy and country driving)

gauges are also mounted (except water temp and oil pressure which im still trying to source) i decided to mount them a slightly different way then usual (pics will be posted once weather gets nicer) and therefore ill shortly have my gauge pod for sale

Question:

to run water temp, do i run this off water into the turbo or water out of the turbo? i am assuming if i go before the turbo ill get rad water temp but if i run after the turbo ill get turbo water temp. what is best? how big ofr a difference between the 2 readings should there be?

[yaris2010RS]

UPDATE:
turbo is installed and runs like a champ. working on a tune currently. so far everything went to plan and only issue i had was i refused to remove the A/C lines to install so i had to "build" my turbo while it was behind the block. (very annoying step to have one guy hold it from under the car and one guy hold it from above)

the turbo was pushing 6psi to start so i played with the waste gate thingy and preloaded it more so currently im pushing 9psi and all is well. im probably gonna lower the boost a bit, think 9psi might be a bit high for a DD

after i got it running and somewhat tuned the only code i got was a P0101 for the Mass or Volume Air Circuit Range, i am assuming this is due to too much air flowing thru the maf? the conflicting information of this is in the freeze frame data, the code was thrown while engine load was only 85%, rpm was 2171 and the maf (g/s) was 22.92. im wondering if this is a sign my bov isnt functioning correctly or i dont have the maf clamp working properly

tuning im looking greatly at the afr, i wanna make sure my engine is safe (again as it is my DD) and its jumping around alot, at a safe limit when i punch it (afr gauge says 10.0) and when im accelerating normally its around 11.6-12.5 and when im cruzing (with cruze control on) it jumps up to 13.6-15.0, this seems off to me. do these numbers sound right? or atleast safe?

[cali yaris]

average of 14 for idle and cruising, 12's for regular acceleration, 11.5-12 for WOT.

Sounds like you are a too rich if you're hitting 10's.

to run water temp, do i run this off water into the turbo or water out of the turbo?

neither. You want block water temp.

[yaris2010RS]

so far changed my mind about water temp (having a hell of a time getting a water line to the turbo so no point imo) and i didnt end up running a oil gauge (there is no way im running a live oil line into my car and not enough room at the stock oil sensor to put the electric one), currently running with only boost gauge and afr gauge.

yeah i was thinking 10 was WAY too rich, ill try with a more refind tune, thanks for the numbers garm.

any idea about the P0101?

[fnkngrv]

after i got it running and somewhat tuned the only code i got was a P0101 for the Mass or Volume Air Circuit Range, i am assuming this is due to too much air flowing thru the maf? the conflicting information of this is in the freeze frame data, the code was thrown while engine load was only 85%, rpm was 2171 and the maf (g/s) was 22.92. im wondering if this is a sign my bov isnt functioning correctly or i dont have the maf clamp working properly

MAF clamping needs to be set because of what you have already stated...too much air flowing passed the sensor causing it to trip out. Since you are using the F/IC perhaps I can see about sending you my MAF map with the understanding that you are in a different climate/altitude, etc from be (Maine) and that anything you do with it is at your own risk. I am just getting tuned this week myself finally. Been running off the stock ECU only for 14k miles/8 months.

As for boost, I would start with 6/7 and verify whether or not you are going lean at the top of your curve. I am seeing that and therefore will be installing an aftermarket fuel pump most likely with a modified fuel rail and return in the next couple months.

[Blown_xa]

UPDATE:
turbo is installed and runs like a champ. working on a tune currently. so far everything went to plan and only issue i had was i refused to remove the A/C lines to install so i had to "build" my turbo while it was behind the block. (very annoying step to have one guy hold it from under the car and one guy hold it from above)

the turbo was pushing 6psi to start so i played with the waste gate thingy and preloaded it more so currently im pushing 9psi and all is well. im probably gonna lower the boost a bit, think 9psi might be a bit high for a DD

after i got it running and somewhat tuned the only code i got was a P0101 for the Mass or Volume Air Circuit Range, i am assuming this is due to too much air flowing thru the maf? the conflicting information of this is in the freeze frame data, the code was thrown while engine load was only 85%, rpm was
2171 and the maf (g/s) was 22.92. im wondering if this is a sign my bov isnt functioning correctly or i dont have the maf clamp working properly

tuning im looking greatly at the afr, i wanna make sure my engine is safe (again as it is my DD) and its jumping around alot, at a safe limit when i punch it (afr gauge says 10.0) and when im accelerating normally its around 11.6-12.5 and when im cruzing (with cruze control on) it jumps up to 13.6-
15.0, this seems off to me. do these numbers sound right? or atleast safe?

I'm not a tuner, but I can tell you the mass air flow volume code is most likely because the MAF voltage is being maxed out. It needs to be clamped in the tune. Roughly 5~7psi maxes it out.

[Brian]

I would run an oil pressure gauge if I was you. It saved me when I had an oil pressure problem. There's more than enough room it the stock location to put a sensor in, I did.

[cali yaris]

(there is no way im running a live oil line into my car and not enough room at the stock oil sensor to put the electric one),

Yeah, this just isn't true, it's where mine is installed. You know you replace the stock one with the one for the gauge, right? You don't use two sensors, in other words.

[yaris2010RS]

the shop i went to had a massive electric sender unit, also the adapter i have for my oil feed line (the split from the stock senser unit) uses metric thread on the end (where the stock sensor needs to go back) and imperial thread on the sides. i was told that shop and most shops in the area can only get imperial thread, not the metric ones.

a new code i seem to be getting (after i stalled) was P0335 CrankShaft Position Sensor A circuit. was this just caused from the engine stalling or could be sign of a serious issue? i didnt write down the freeze frame data on this code but i remember the TPS to be at 0% and engine rpm at 1160.

[cali yaris]

I don't get why you still need the stock oil pressure sensor. Just replace it.

[yaris2010RS]

dont get me wrong i completely agree with you, and if i could find one with the same threads as the stock one i would.

[fnkngrv]

dont get me wrong i completely agree with you, and if i could find one with the same threads as the stock one i would.


Any reason why you can't swap out for an NPT fitting?

[fnkngrv]

a new code i seem to be getting (after i stalled) was P0335 CrankShaft Position Sensor A circuit. was this just caused from the engine stalling or could be sign of a serious issue? i didnt write down the freeze frame data on this code but i remember the TPS to be at 0% and engine rpm at 1160.

This could be a sign that your Boomslang is suffering from the same incorrect wiring that mine and a few others had. I can't recall as I am going on 2 hrs sleep in over 48 hrs right now, but it is either set to tap or intercept currently (possibly) and it should be tap I believe otherwise you will have issues. CTScott would be a great resource to PM to talk to about it. He went through my entire Bslang wire by wire to test/confirm proper termination and soldering, etc. He found several bad points and fixed them for me. He is an electrical genius if you haven't already been made aware of it and a great contributor to the community. Always willing to help.

Not saying that this is your issue for sure, but it a path to investigate. :w00t:

[yaris2010RS]

i suppose i could, would just be a matter of finding one

[yaris2010RS]

This could be a sign that your Boomslang is suffering from the same incorrect wiring that mine and a few others had. I can't recall as I am going on 2 hrs sleep in over 48 hrs right now, but it is either set to tap or intercept currently (possibly) and it should be tap I believe otherwise you will have issues. CTScott would be a great resource to PM to talk to about it. He went through my entire Bslang wire by wire to test/confirm proper termination and soldering, etc. He found several bad points and fixed them for me. He is an electrical genius if you haven't already been made aware of it and a great contributor to the community. Always willing to help.

Not saying that this is your issue for sure, but it a path to investigate. :w00t:

ive read about this issue but i find it odd then that i've only gotten it twice, its not a common issue. only thing i can see possible is the connection in the harness is loose

[yaris2010RS]

Has anyone crashed their AEM FIC yet? lol, i ran into a very strange error when trying to connect my pc and it told me i had to reflash it....gay now i need to start all over again. tuning is such a PIA

[Brian]

ive read about this issue but i find it odd then that i've only gotten it twice, its not a common issue. only thing i can see possible is the connection in the harness is loose

I had the same issue when I first installed the boomslang and FIC . The code appeared once and the never again until I sent my FIC back to AEM then the code came back once I reinstalled. I cleared it and havent seen it in 4 months.

[cali yaris]

I think mainly the issue with the Boomslang is re-used stock pins coming out that had to be re-inserted, more that than actual incorrect wiring.

[thebarber]

boomslang harnesses are often crappily done...

[yaris2010RS]

^thats silly considering its a almost $500 harness......

but if it was a bad wiring job it would throw the P0335 code always, ive only gotten it twice. wondering if its a loose connection.....

would some di-electric grease on the connectors be a bad idea or a good preventitive measure?

[yaris2010RS]

okay so ive given up on trying to chase the p0335 code, it has yet to happen again so probably just a glitch.

now to tuning....... ugh, lol what a PIA this is. im not looking for max preformance, im looking for safe engine. currently i believe my issue starts with the injector change. i was under the impression 1zz injectors are 220cc and 1zn injectors are 190cc. are these numbers correct or are they throwing me off?

[Blown_xa]

okay so ive given up on trying to chase the p0335 code, it has yet to happen again so probably just a glitch.

now to tuning....... ugh, lol what a PIA this is. im not looking for max preformance, im looking for safe engine. currently i believe my issue starts with the injector change. i was under the impression 1zz injectors are 220cc and 1zn injectors are 190cc. are these numbers correct or are they throwing me off?

My advice to you, rescale injectors... And get it to the dyno for somebody to tune it. It is impossible to tune a car properly on the street. Just yesterday we got a 102whp gain over a street tune at the same boost ( just an example) on an evo.

[yaris2010RS]

UPDATE:

hey guys, sorry for the long wait since last update. boosted life is busy with all the laid im getting :D lol

for all those who said it cant be done, im street tuned with NO CEL code and Closed-Loop

so im still running with a street tune, planning to get properly tuned by mid summer as by then hopefully ill be done school and in a full time job. im not overly concerned with my tune, its getting great AFR's, slightly rich but id rather for a safe street tune. (~11.9WOT, 12.3-13.9 accel, 14.5-15.1 Cruze/idle)

currently my turbo is at 9psi and i dont plan on touching it, i havent had any issues thus far, but the new 2.5inch exhaust scrapes on everything! lol. i definatly feel a 300HP gain and im planning to get a turbo sticker so i should be well above the 350streetHP (on a serious note i feel a easy 50HP gain)

i get a bit of turbo flutter sometimes but not sure why..... any help? my system is BOV and MAF in stock location. i think it might be because i got sucked into a fake HKS SSQS valve, so im hopeing that could be it.

one thing that really worries me is my fuel efficiency (mpgs or L/100km).... its gone up.....alot......i mean my average l/100km is about 6.2l/100km, which is really good for my style of driving.


something else i have been pondering is how to know if i need to use 91 octane or if i can get away with using 89 or even 87 for everyday commuting? im afraid to get stuck with a tank of 89 and not being able to drive it. any ideas with this or even what i should listen for when testing it out would be great.

[cali yaris]

congrats. A professional tune will clean up your map and might net you a little more power for the same boost.

I would only run 91 at 9psi on that motor. I suppose in a pinch you could try and keep it out of boost with 87 or 89, but I would do that sparingly. My .02

[yaris2010RS]

garm, thx for the $0.0196 (sorry for the exchange rate), that has been the general advice but no one can tell me exactly why that is.

i was speaking to a mechanic and he believed 89 or even 87 could be used with some retarding of the timing. he seems to believe since the car was designed to run on 87 and all the sensors are still being used (like i said above i was able to run in closed loop) the computer will adjust to use any type of fuel (87-96) u put in (and any ambient temp and PSIA). also with my tune i have not altered the MAF map, just clamped it a 4.5v, ive altered the ignition, fuel, and o2 only.

according to my buddy, if the computer see's something wrong, it will adjust for it and seeing as im not hiding boost from the computer it should adjust for it. now seeing as he works on chryslers and not toyota's and he doesnt deal with aftermarket installs im aware he doesnt know exactly whats going on but i do see his point of view.

is this plausable circumstance? or is it way out there? im hesitant to use 89 cuz i dont want to grenade my motor but at the same time lets try to save money where we can.

[Yoda]

for peace of mind just use the premium fuel. This is just a cost of being turboed. BE safe than sorry its just a few cents more really. If u can afford to turbo you car you can afford premium fuel. :rolleyes:

[cali yaris]

that has been the general advice but no one can tell me exactly why that is.

That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.

he seems to believe since the car was designed to run on 87 and all the sensors are still being used (like i said above i was able to run in closed loop) the computer will adjust to use any type of fuel (87-96) u put in

Ask him how he knows for sure that it will not start to detonate at 87. If it doesn't, great, you don't need 91. If it does, for long enough, you'll be buying a motor. Ask him if he'll cover that cost if he's wrong.

[cali yaris]

p.s. LOL about about the exchange rate. :laugh:

[yaris2010RS]

That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.

sorry garm, i missed this or how it solves the mystery of needed 91 octane on the street


Ask him how he knows for sure that it will not start to detonate at 87. If it doesn't, great, you don't need 91. If it does, for long enough, you'll be buying a motor. Ask him if he'll cover that cost if he's wrong.

i agree with this, if he could show me some type of equation that proves 87 would be fine then this would have been a discovery post vs a inquiry post. ive been looking into this a bit and found people delaying timing to fix issues when going from 93 octane to 89 octane.

what my friend was saying made sense to me, but i quite easy to convince.....good thing im not female....or too bad more females arnt like me..... back on topic, he basically was saying since im not hiding boost from my ecu, it will adjust for it, if it senses a knock it will adjust for it. i trust his opinion but really this fourm has the best of the best when it comes to specific questions like this.


p.s. LOL about about the exchange rate. :laugh:

lol, im glad u found it funny, i was worried it could be taken as a "snarky" comment, lol

[Yoda]

If you really want to run 89 then get your engine tuned for it. Don't rely on the stock ecu to correct timing. The stock knock sensor is not all that good and not something I would trust when under any boost to control timing. Your talking about using a limited reactive system to correct timing with low octane gas while in boost. Bad idea. Too much timing retard can also be a bad thing for your motor and can lead to burnt valves. What ever fuel you want to use just be sure to get tuned for it. The Aem fic allows you to make two different maps.
You will have to turn down the boost to run low octane gas. Or just stay out of any high boost.
But really you need to be running premium. You never kno while driving on the road where you might need to suddenly accelerate to avoid a crash or something. That one time is all it takes for you to blow your motor. It can be done just not wise. If you love your car give it the best you can and premium fuel is not too much to ask. Good luck M8.

--Sent from IPhone

[cali yaris]

^ Best answer.


Originally Posted by cali yaris
That is because on a dyno there are controlled conditions under which the car can be tuned. Can't be said much clearer than that.

sorry garm, i missed this or how it solves the mystery of needed 91 octane on the street

This had nothing to do with that. You said you didn't understand why dyno tuning was needed vs. street tuning.

if he could show me some type of equation that proves 87 would be fine

That's impossible. It detonates when it detonates. You are talking about a dynamic, complex system, that you have modified beyond its designed intent. This is why tuning is an art, using technoology, and experience, and ears and eyes. It's also a further explanation of why it's best to tune on the dyno.

[yaris2010RS]

If you really want to run 89 then get your engine tuned for it. Don't rely on the stock ecu to correct timing. The stock knock sensor is not all that good and not something I would trust when under any boost to control timing. Your talking about using a limited reactive system to correct timing with low octane gas while in boost. Bad idea. Too much timing retard can also be a bad thing for your motor and can lead to burnt valves. What ever fuel you want to use just be sure to get tuned for it. The Aem fic allows you to make two different maps.
You will have to turn down the boost to run low octane gas. Or just stay out of any high boost.
But really you need to be running premium. You never kno while driving on the road where you might need to suddenly accelerate to avoid a crash or something. That one time is all it takes for you to blow your motor. It can be done just not wise. If you love your car give it the best you can and premium fuel is not too much to ask. Good luck M8.

--Sent from IPhone

^this is a very good answer

^ Best answer.






This had nothing to do with that. You said you didn't understand why dyno tuning was needed vs. street tuning.



That's impossible. It detonates when it detonates. You are talking about a dynamic, complex system, that you have modified beyond its designed intent. This is why tuning is an art, using technoology, and experience, and ears and eyes. It's also a further explanation of why it's best to tune on the dyno.

oh, sorry i missunderstood the contex of it. i strongly believe everyone should be dyno tuned, its by far the best and complete way to tune. seeing all the maps involved and measurements and readings i completely agree that dyno is the way to go. once funds come in i will definatly be getting a professional tune.

[cali yaris]

And just to be really clear, we street tuned my car as well before our dyno sessions. You can get pretty close with that method - especially with two people in the car!

[yaris2010RS]

New update:

Ran into another issue, it seemed to happen very randomly but I could smell raw fuel in the cabin, thought it may have been random sections of super rich tune. Today I checked injectors and they appeared to be leaking slightly around the top and bottom o-rings. And on 2 injectors the bottom o-rings appeared to look different the other 2.... 3 hours or work, about 5 liters of fuel all over my garage and driveway, removing the injectors about 5 times and a trip to local junk yard the bottom o-rings were replaced.

I recommend to anyone removing fuel rail, when u put it back on double check the bottom injector gasket is properly in place. My was sitting half in the hole and half ontop, which caused a leak and allowed the fuel injector to wiggle and oblong the gasket hole.

Only issues I had to direct me towards the injector issue was raw fuel smell and a second or 2 extra starting crank time which I just thought was because of the turbo. Fixing the injectors stopped the fuel smell but my tune is off again (I need to tweek the tune) and now my car takes forever to start! It made it worse, hopefully retuning will fix this. Ill update tomorrow if tuning did fix this.

Anyone have some loose change and experience on this issue?

[1.5]

Damn man the price of being boosted. GL

[yaris2010RS]

price of being boosted, being escorted off the highway cuz the car made a loud noise and gave up...... 9psi@140km/h passing in the left lane and she died

a shit ton of questions from a curious officer later and 6bucks worth of batteries for my flashlight and asking a truck driver to borrow a wrench i put the intake pipe back on the TB :D


next time i get a chance to sit with my car, remove bumper and make sure all the I/C piping clamps are very very tight :)

[Yoda]

price of being boosted, being escorted off the highway cuz the car made a loud noise and gave up...... 9psi@140km/h passing in the left lane and she died

a shit ton of questions from a curious officer later and 6bucks worth of batteries for my flashlight and asking a truck driver to borrow a wrench i put the intake pipe back on the TB :D


next time i get a chance to sit with my car, remove bumper and make sure all the I/C piping clamps are very very tight :)

This has happened to me many a times lol. :redface:

[yaris2010RS]

scared the PISS outta me, lol. to make it worse due to traffic reasons i was forced to bail out on the left shoulder. luckly there was a officer about 2 mins behind me, and he said if i could get it moving he would escort me off the road

[ilikerice]

If you had a girl in your car when that happened, I dont think you will get laid that night.. HAHA.. just kidding.. enjoy your adventures with turbo

[WeeYari]

Biggest turbo thread without pics of the install.

Come on Jeff. Let's see how pretty of a job you did.

[yaris2010RS]

lol kk, ill see how many cell phone pics i can take today while putting my rims on. i only have 2 pics of the install already and they are both just test fitting the I/C

[djgab101]

good to see ur turbo and tune is running smooth has that p0335 engine check light come back on? mine doesnt go away!

[yaris2010RS]

sorry been super busy with work and school finals. djgab, yeah my light went away. double check your wiring and connectors. my issue i found to be in the boomslang harness itself.

continunity is your friend.

currently i have no engine codes. if i do a long run (0-170km/h) WOT i get a system rich code but i think thats due to my street tune. im currenty looking for a local shop to tune my car

[Scubaru Steve]

so when do we get to see some pics? or are they posted somewhere?

[yaris2010RS]

VERY SORRY GUYS, i was so busy the last few months of school and now a new job......anyways excuses are done, i have pics from today when i finally got my coolant line installed. so far i lvoe my turbo, no issues and im currently still looking for a good place to get a tune. anyone know of any tuning places in GTA?


Intercooler
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120206-00073.jpg

HKS SSQ BOV
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120206-00074.jpg

i recently noticed my IAT was kinda high so i lowered my front plate and noticed a difference in temp
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00066.jpg

Turbo from under the car view, Axel Shaft plate and heat wrap have been removed, the braided line you are seeing is the coolant return and the rubber is the oil return.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00058.jpg

turbo view from above (windshield cowel removed and heat wrap) braided line on the the left(with pink ziptie) is the coolant feed, to the right is the coolant return
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00062.jpg

engine bay picture (windshield cowel and engine cover removed)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00063.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00065.jpg

TB (the braided line is my turbo coolant line, coolant return line goes to where that hse use to go)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00064.jpg

intake pipe, MAF and under the headlight you can see the BOV
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00067.jpg

custom 2.5" Exhaust + HighFlow Cat
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00068.jpg

Rear View, Sorry car is very dirty. NOTE I REBUILT MY CENTER EXHAUST TO ACCOMODATE A 2.5" INLET AND OUTLET. (for those of you folloing along, exhaust only has highflow cat and muffler)
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00069.jpg

Stickers
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/IMG-20120512-00070.jpg

[JumpmanYaris]

You gonna finish this so you can get rolled up by my stock sedan :biggrin:

[yaris2010RS]

finish it? its been my DD forever and have been driving boosted with no coolant lines since Feb.... only thing i really got left is a professional tune

[pimp my yaris]

Looking good.

[cali yaris]

Excellent. Sleeper!

[TURBO YARIS]

This turbo kit you have installed on your car looks ALOT like my old kit. But I sold it to someone else in Canada. Did you buy it from someone?

(Correction it is my old kit, I thought you had a different user name)

Looks good : )

[changchewsoon]

This car is really a sleeper, good stuff! :)

[yaris2010RS]

got a proper dyno and tune yesterday, the tuner gave me two tunes, one for street and one for track

Street
9.5PSI boost with 155WHP @ 5500RPM (184HP @ crank)
Max Torque 160Ft-lbs @ 4000RPM

Track
9.5PSI with 162WHP @ 4300RPM (190HP @ Crank)
Max Torque 161Ft-lbs @ 4000rpm

He said my set up is restricted by the exhaust, he says there is alot of restriction in the system. im looking at getting an exhaust dump to fix this situation (electronic servo opens an exhaust dump before the restriction)

i have the print out of my Street tune VS the Professional tune. kinda disapointed that i only got my street tune vs professional, when i first saw it i thought it was professional street tune vs professional track tune. he said also there was alot of heat soak of the engine so on the street he said it felt more like 160hp but he is looking forward to seeing my car again with the exhaust dump.

another side note, with my street tune i was only loosing max 5hp, but the curves are way different.

46990

[cali yaris]

Awesome, tuning makes all the difference.

1. Both tunes at 9.5 psi?
2. What's different between the two maps, and where is the 162 whp chart?

[fnkngrv]

Personally I love the turbo set up that Carlos designed. It has worked great on my car and really have a couple qualms. One being the internal wastegate, but that has been corrected now on mine and would be a non issue IMO on a southern car. The second would be something that really is inherent to many cars with the IC piping over the top and that is ensuring the pipe riding up over the cam cover from the front needs to be installed with the correct depths in the rubber intersection otherwise you will either rub on the bottom of it on the cam cover or rub the top of it on the hood.

Great works :)

[thebarber]

Nice power...

[yaris2010RS]

I didn't get the 162whp chart, when he printed this out for me I quickly glanced at it and thought it was the street vs track map, after I got home and really looked it over I saw that its my tune vs his which was kinda disapointing. He said the only difference between the tunes are the fuel trims and timing, the street tune is safe and the track tune is more on the edge (and throws a engine code of o2 sensor high) I tried both out and they felt more or less the same.

What's the issues with internal wastegate? Where else would the wastegate go? Lol

I'm so happy with my low end power gain especially and how smooth the car feels. I can't believe how much of a difference the tune made, it feels stock turbo now. And my AFR's are super stable.

[cali yaris]

so your street tune and his street tune were at 9.5 psi? What boost was for the 162 whp tune?

Internal wastegate is when the wastegate is inside the turbo. External is when you mount a separate wastegate outside the turbo.

[fnkngrv]

PM sent.

[yaris2010RS]

Yes both tunes are at 9.5psi. Only differences between the whp apparently are the maps themselves. He did suggest that 9.5 is a bit high for a dd so when I do the exhaust modifications I will most likely lower it or put an electronic wastegate actuator.

And I'd just like to clarify about the tunes, I wrote it kinda messed up, he gave me 2 professional tunes, one for street and one for track. I also have My own personal street tune but I will never be using that again. Just incase there was some confusion between the dyno'd street tune and mmy street tune.

[cali yaris]

Still confused about the "track" tune. What was different about it to gain the hp?

[eTiMaGo]

tuned for higher octane perhaps?

[cali yaris]

^ It didn't sound like they drained the tank and put in different gas for this tuning.

[yaris2010RS]

Naw was same fuel, same everything. Nothing was changed except within the tuning parameters.

Only thing I really know about it is its not recomended by the tuner to run on a daily basis and it throws a engine code and my afr's are mostly richer. I guess the same way he tweeked out the extra hp from my own tune; he tweeked out a few extra hp from his own tune but feels its not as safe as his previous tune.

[TURBO YARIS]

What octane fuel are you using?

[cali yaris]

Richer would make less power, not more. :iono:

[ilikerice]

Richer would make less power, not more. :iono:

yea. I would think that he means on the edge of lean hints the expression, "leaner is meaner" going on the rich side would be safer.

[fnkngrv]

something sounds off with how your tuner does business, no offense, but it makes no sense whatsoever to think that it is safe or that there are different curves for the same octane rating fuel....sounds a bit odd to me.

[yaris2010RS]

^man dont start putting that in my head..... Also I'm running 91 octane.

Sorry guys I don't have much info about the tuning difference. I also wouldn't recommend the tuner as my afr's still fluctuate quite a bit.

Like said before, only thing I know is if I run the track tune I get system rich (afrs at 13.5ish cruise and about 12.2-12.5 wot) street tune I'm running 14.2-14.7 cruise and 12.5-12.8 wot

I plan to get a new exhaust with less restriction and get a retune so will most likely be getting it done at a different shop

[Blown_xa]

Don't expect solid AFR's when tuning with the FIC. The onboard map sensor has no buffering, so even though you may be 7psi at wot from 3000rpm till redline (example) ... the map sensor rarely traces that.

Also, don't hassle between 2 maps. It just makes things more complicated. I have one map, lower boost levels are safe to run without meth injection. If I set my boost controller for over 20psi, that part of the map is optimized for meth injection. Over 27psi, the map will be optimized for race gas (have not done so yet).

[thefalls]

With water/meth and raised boost on stock engine,has anyone been able to find the max power that can be safely made?

Most boosted engines [1nz fe] are rated at 180bhp. So am i right in saying that no matter water/meth or boost raise then is 180bhp all we can extract from the stock 1nzfe?

[pimp my yaris]

I wouldn't take it past 180whp with stock rods and pistons. Mine bent a rod two days after dyno run when I put out 197whp. It was a cool day and the car was just ripping fast. I guess a little to much boost at 12psi. I am still surprised it handled so much for so long. I drove at 10psi for a year with no problems. I ran 11.5/1 afr at wide open.

[Yoda]

I also ran 10 psi for a very long time before one of my injectors clogged up. Just my luck. Got me 203whp tho. Just make sure you are tuned really good.

[cali yaris]

Most boosted engines [1nz fe] are rated at 180bhp.

Agreed with the last two posts, but where do these "ratings" come from?

[packetrace]

damn i dont have money for this :( i would get the zage turbo kit in there :(

[thefalls]

Well my bad,been reading here and there. And this 180bhp figure got stuck.
At 180whp,i think that would meet my goals as this is my daily drive.
I seriously doubt the TRD turbo [IHI made] will make that power,though.

Regarding the stock inlet manifold,any substitute to that? What inlet mani are you people using?

[cali yaris]

^ lots of discussion about the intake manifold. We have one in development, and you should look up "tooter" thread about the one he is playing with.

[yaris2010RS]

Update:

BOOST DOES NOT GET YOU LAID!

It keeps you up all night for 2 days while you replace the motor, lol

^as you can read from above and probably guess i needed to replace my motor..... lol

I DONT REGRET ANYTHING AND CANT WAIT TO BE BOOSTED AGAIN, STOCK YARII IS SOOOOOOOO F'IN SLOW! lol.....

More updates to come......

[cali yaris]

you know I'm subscribed!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

You kids and your overly ambitious boosting :wink:

Sorry to hear though. At least it sounds like you've already got it covered.

[cali yaris]

I LOVE being called a kid :tongue:

[yaris2010RS]

^LMFAO, Garm.....random question......How old are you?

Short Story: Water got into my stock ECM and threw my AFR's way way off. Unfortunately as this is my daily driver i was forced to drive it while I was trying to trace back to the issue. And engine stopped working

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121120_143425.jpg

Yes I Took my Cowl apart on the side of the road to get the car going again……

Long and Painful Story: The first real sign of an issue was after my car shut down in a carwash. It would crank over but wouldn’t catch. Finally I decided i had to bump it off the starter to get it out of the car wash out of the way from the other dirty car owners. I figured water had gotten into a connector and once it dried it would be fine so I walked across the street, had lunch and some beers and when I came back she struggled but it started. It ran great till I got to my next client and let the car sit in the parking lot. When I came back out again it struggled to start and once it did start I had my dash board dancing like a Christmas tree. (engine, trac, slip, abs, ebrake, airbag, oil and a few other lights I never saw before were flashing on and off)

I called it a day and Took it home and immediately started trying to find the problem. I found light corrosion on the boomslang harness pins and also light corrosion on the ECM pins. I cleaned the corrosion the best I could and I put enough dielectric grease to comfortably do a rectal examination on an elephant. Started the car and the car was running and idling very good, I felt comfortable I had solved the problem. I took it for a quick test drive around the block and found all AFRs were reasonable, slightly off but I gave it the benefit of the doubt and trusted it was due to the ECM relearning the stock fuel trims

At this point please keep in mind I didn’t say there was a lot of logic behind my method of thinking. If you really really think about it you can make anything sound plausible and that exactly what I did……

After about a week of driving I noticed My AFRs still wernt quite normal and seemed to be getting slightly worse, I believed it had something to do with a change or resistance on the pins so I would need to retune to correct the issue, I attempted to adjust my maps on the FIC and found the engine would not react as expected, I then went looking for more corrosion.

Remember at this point also my car has been driving for over a week with the AFRs all over the place without any engine light or CEL codes, using my OBD2 I did see that my ECM wasn’t even reading my O2 sensor 2 bank 1 voltage and my sensor 1 was fluctuating when the car was in the on position but not on. Also at this point I am beginning to smell unburnt fuel and exhaust emissions inside the cabin while I was driving, I believed this was a sign my car AFRs were rich and my AEM wideband was in fact reading incorrectly and what ever buggered up that sensor also buggered up my O2 sensor 1 (remember that thing I said about being able to give logic to anything……exhibit (A))

After a very late night of myself working on the car and keeping CTScott up past his bed time too( To whom I owe many thanks to), he convinced me that water may have gotten into the Toyota SEALED ECM and is causing the isuses, so I opened it up and found what would be the cause of the issue.

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_230353.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_230434.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_230636.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_232950.jpg

And what was left after I cleaned corrosion, notice pins from the IC chip are in fact missing

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_233759.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121119_233808.jpg

First thing I did the next morning was drive over to Toyota and showed them the Pics and issues I was having, I spoke firmly and directly to the service manager. They agreed to cover the ECM under warranty and they ordered the part right away without even looking at my car. Only problem at this point was my ECM was going to take about a month as they were on back order and showed stock no where. Also apparently Toyota is no longer able to give out loner cars while your car is out for repair so I was left with the dealer (and the person I called at Toyota Canada) saying its my decision to find alternate means of transportation or drive the car.

After many heated conversations with the dealer and Toyota Canada they did rush the part in in about a week, but this was one more week of me driving my car with crazy AFRs. I did try to stay away from boost as much as possible but it was not uncommon to go up to 4PSI (wastegate was set to 9) While I was waiting for the new ECM I did disconnect my boomslang harness as with only the stock ECM is was more stable for everyday driving but still would get super rich and super lean at random intervals.

After I got my New ECM i left my boomslang harness unplugged to try and have the new ecm relearn the stock fuel trims correctly. First thing I noticed was the AFRs were more constant and much more stable then the old ECM, also it was now reading both my O2s in a stable way. Second thing I noticed was I still had the smell of fuel and exhaust in my cabin. I checked header and everything looked good, I couldn’t find an exhaust leak and even checked my injectors for leaks.

After a few days of driving like this the smell was getting worse, when the car was hot (after about 1.5 hours of driving) I popped the hood with the car still running and saw a thick stream of steam and exhaust and significant oil particles coming out of the breather tube……. I purchased a long tube and ran it under my car so I would survive the drive home. By the time I got home the car was backfiring, missing, and smoking like a MOFO out of the breather and exhaust.

I checked compression and it was as followed:

Test #1: Car sat aprox 40 mins before test
Cylinder 1 - - 155 – 158 PSI
Cylinder 2 - - 154 – 157 PSI
Cylinder 3 - - 155 – 159 PSI
Cylinder 4 - - 153 – 156 PSI

Test #2: Car run hard and compression checked within 10 mins
Cylinder 1 - - 160 – 165 PSI
Cylinder 2 - - 161 – 167 PSI
Cylinder 3 - - 159 – 164 PSI
Cylinder 4 - - 163 – 166 PSI

Also I did a leak down test and saw a very minimal drop

I left the car that night and came out in the morning to take it to the dealer to see what was up. They told me I needed a complete engine rebuild as I have significant blow by (NO F/CK/NG SHIT, I TOLD YOU THAT AS SOON AS I WALKED IN!!!!! GRRRRR) I told them the engine replacement was on them as it was their faulty computer that caused the engine to go. After lots and lots of yelling and swearing and phone calls with Toyota Canada (and I think they made a phone call to the cops too cuz they just happen to be driving around in the parking lot briefly) Toyota offered to cover about 50% of the cost but would not cover the entire engine replacement as “A Stock, unmodified Yaris would have been able to withstand the conditions the ECM was creating”

I told them they would never see the green of my money again. (or pink and blue and brown……yes we know our Canadian money is colourful) and left a one-wheel-peel out of their drive through bay (which also left some colourful smoke and toxic fumes)

All I knew at this point was I needed my Daily driver to get back to work. Luckily I remembered Barber (who I would also like to thank greatly) had a very mint, well taken care of Stock yaris engine from a 2010 with about 20,000km (12,427 Mi). I snagged that up and found where I had put all my Stock yaris parts and got to work, It took me 3 days (17 hours total) to do the swap. I am working on the Engine Swap DIY, as I found out there isn’t one…….

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121128_143031.jpg
engine being brought back from The Barbers in the back of a borrowed oversized pickup for the job
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121128_200337.jpg
Engine getting to my house and unloaded from Pickup (yes 2 guys can put it in but one guy cannot take it out)

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121129_191010.jpg
Engine removal

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121129_205307.jpg
Old Engine, New Engine, Tranny, Stock Clutch

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121129_204859.jpg
Stock Clutch

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121129_204908.jpg
Thickness of stock clutch (i should have taken a measurement but I didn’t…..)

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121129_215759.jpg
New engine mated with stock tranny all polished and cleaned, ready to go in




I polished up the engine and tranny and Once the new engine was in, she started up great and is running like a champ. Threw in some sea foam to get rid of any deposits left inside and have had no mechanical issues thus far, only issue I had was about half way through my day the car died….. apparently those ground wires on the left side of the engine (drivers side) are very important……DO NOT ONLY HAND TIGHTEN THESE BOLTS! THEY WILL COME LOOSE, YOU CAR WILL SHUTDOWN! Lol…….


When I was all done, came inside and my GF had made me Cookies! YAY ME! Im gonna do engine swaps more often

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121202_004043.jpg

Will Update with what Actually went wrong in the stock engine when i get a chance to get into it. Also will create the engine swap DIY and post once its ready with Pics. I do believe it was the Top end (valves/cam) that went wrong, i do not believe it was a gasket or pision rings...... Like i said i will keap you posted.

All in all i do not regret boosting and i cant wait to create a 300bhp motor to drop back in. I am very unsatisfied with Toyotas actions and the way they treat me dirrectly (i have never been treated this much as a kid in my life) I am not saying they should have replaced the motor no questions asked but they should not haven spoken to me the way they did. This experience will greatly influence my decision when i purchase my next Vehicle. I love toyota but they are falling through the holes and no longer treating customers as number one.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

WOW. What a story lol.

I'm really surprised to see that water made its way into the ECU. I'm even more surprised that Toyota didn't completely blow you off for having such a heavily modified car. You must be pretty damn persuasive.

A DIY for engine removal would be really awesome. I figure at one point or another I'll be in that boat, and would love to have something to reference.

All in all, I'm glad to see you're not discouraged though. Things can and will go wrong when you modify an engine so much, but the outcome is always worth it.

Oh. And them cookies. :drool:

I LOVE being called a kid :tongue:

Garm, you ARE a kid. At heart, at least. :tongue:

[Bluevitz-rs]

WOW. What a story lol.

X2

Looks like you had an exhaust leak on no. 1 and 2 at the head/manifold.

[yaris2010RS]

the exhast leak was an on going issue with the turbo, since i never supported the bottom of the turbo i had to keep tightning the header bolts

[Bluevitz-rs]

Maybe you should fab up some kind of bracket

[yaris2010RS]

Maybe you should fab up some kind of bracket

LOL......was the plan for the last year lol, just never got around to it. almost did it a few weeks back but decided to just tighten it up again and go back inside lol

Next time i go boosted i will definatly have a bracket. im excited to build my engine and fab everything up before putting it in, should work out much better then the method i did before (with engine in car trial and error)

[pimp my yaris]

Its sounds like U put up a good fight with that dealer. Mine was still covered under powertrain warranty when I bent a rod. I didnt even try to get the dealer to pay. I just started calling junk yards.
And yes, build a motor you wont regret it!

[yaris2010RS]

i figured it was worth a fight, i do believe my car would have been still running fine if the ECM didnt crap out. with the ECM acting up i had some of the worst issues for a boosted motor:
Off timing (i believe)
too rich (oil wash down)
Too Lean (cookin sh!t)
unpredictable

[yaris2010RS]

Went outside to get more pics for my engine removal DIY and instead i started ripping the old engine appart......

oil change the hard way, i have no idea who said doing it off a lift was the hard way, this was much more annoying.....

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121206_210747.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121206_211608.jpg
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa375/rsyaryar/20121206_210804.jpg

[thebarber]

glad the new engine is working for you...

...and im happy to have some more space in my garage

[Focus_Sh1ft]

How'd you separate the black housing from the ECM? Currently trying to have a look see at mine (our problems sound very similar), but can't get a good look at the bottom of the board.

[yaris2010RS]

screw driver my friend. its similar silicone that holds out headlights together. i didnt use heat but im sure your could use light heat. make sure you remove the screws around the unit as well as the bracket

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Our ECMs must be different. If it was that simple we wouldn't be having this conversation :p

I've got it apart but the pins off the board are in the black plastic connector, making it impossible to see the other side of the board. It looks like the black plastic cover slides out but... It doesnt. lol

I'll throw some pictures up shortly to see if we're on the same page.

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Mobile/IMG_20121209_001433.jpg

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Mobile/IMG_20121209_001508.jpg

[yaris2010RS]

LOL, sorry i forgot a step/ exactly what you ment.

the top two connectors are soldered onto the chip do not remove the pins from the connector. from the picture, the only thing holding the chip in is the silicone holding the black plastic connectors onto the back case.

dont pry on the chip (i hope you already knew this but just incase), pry against the connectors and the casing.

also be careful how much you handle the physical chip itself

if you do find something on it dont spray WD40 on it, you would want to ensure to use a proper contact cleaner. and before putting it back together i would recommed putting di-electric grease all over the chip

[yaris2010RS]

How did the pins themselves look? i had some slight corrosion on a few

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So you're saying it's just the silicone holding that piece on then? Normally I'd just throw some force at it but for obvious reasons I'm avoiding that.

The pins themselves look fine. I don't expect to find water corrosion (I don't know how water got in yours - this thing was sealed tight!), but I definitely want a look at the caps in particular.

Also, just in case this winds up being the problem - did the dealer have to reprogram your new ecm? Obviously there will be a vin mismatch, but I wonder if it would still work (if there isn't an immobilizer on your car, of course).

[yaris2010RS]

my car does have the immobilizer. i took in all my keys so they could reprogram them all to the new ECM.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright, success. Or something. Going to continue this in my thread.

[yaris2010RS]

^so now that that little thread hijacking is done..... LOL JKSJKS

UPDATE Engine removal DIY: Still working on Engine removal DIY, Almost got the write up all done but im going to basically need to re-remove my engine to get some pics of certain things, especially the things i found difficult and time consuming. Trying to make this as easy as possible for others. Its about time i give back some useful information to the community!

UPDATE regarding broken engine...... I have no idea why exactly she failed. Valves looked great (will post pics) and pistons and walls looked absolutly perfect. no valve stems appeared to be bent. the only damage found was on the Valve guides. One guide was very brittle and actually broke when i was removing the valve stem seal, i do not believe it was completely broken before i got into the engine. The one next to it also appeared to have some cracking on it. but no pieces came off

the valve seat also looked great and looked to be sealing all the way around. (as per the marks all around the valve base and seat)

Currently trying to seperate engine (block from....well the bottom part.....cast oil pan i suppose?) but am stuck on the ghost bolt...... is there a bolt inside the oil filter area? i cannot seperate the block form cast oil pan..... i am able to seperate the rear side of the engine but it gets stuck around where the oil filter goes.....any help with this?

For all you with water pump issues...... inside my head i found trapped metal, it looks like cast scraps and if these get sucked into the water pump im sure could do some damage......

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yes there is a hidden bolt in the oil filter location. You need to remove the threaded portion the oil filter screws onto and there should be a bolt inside.

[yaris2010RS]

Thanks that what i thought.....Is the 12mm hex a reverse thread by any chance?

[Bluevitz-rs]

No it should just be a normal right hand thread. Otherwise installing a filter would want to loosen it.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Good, good.

I look forward to the engine porn. :laugh:

[yaris2010RS]

DUDE THE ENGINE PORN IS NASTYYYY!!!! LOL, Still cant find any issues inside..... bottom end looks great too. will be removing pistons later this week and will update on rings but if the walls were fine i doubt ill see anything noticable with the rings. you never know.



Let me re-state my symptoms, Missfire code on cylinder 1, running like a bag, loss of power, huge blowby (to the point it looked like my car was over heating from smoke coming out of breather tube) at idle my PSI was at -15 vs the normal -21. also my load at idle was aprox 40% Calc Load. I had blue smoke comming out of exhaust getting worse and worse as the engine symptoms got worse and worse. especially on start up and WOT.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Dis you check to make sure the PCV ( positive crankcase ventilation) valve wasn't clogged. That would create a high pressure in the bottom end and push oil to places it shouldn't be.

[yaris2010RS]

Yep, check it, looked good and made the clunking when you shook it, Cleaned it just incase and it made the clunking slightly louder and before pulling the engine i swapped the PCV with the engine i was going to put in and i had the same pressure coming out of the blowby

[yaris2010RS]

Also for all those thinking of not putting an elbow inside the oil pan for the turbo oil return, i could see that causing some damage. I found a "definate discolourment" where the return line would have been shooting oil at

[yaris2010RS]

project going a different dirrection.... looking at a complete engine swap.....something big..... will post with updates

[Focus_Sh1ft]

:drool:

[yaris2010RS]

SAD FACE...... was looking into a cheap 2zzge but engine condition was "Too Unknown"

[yaris2010RS]

Update: still have no idea where my engine failed, checked over head gasket again and found no marks of wear or leaks

[Blown_xa]

Update: still have no idea where my engine failed, checked over head gasket again and found no marks of wear or leaks

you cracked a ringland, pull the pistons out. Inspect in between piston rings

[yaris2010RS]

on all 4 pistons? remember i had the same low compression on all 4 cylinders