flashing coolant light

[2o6]

Drove my car to work today, noticed the flashing red light literally as I pulled up to my job. Popped the hood, no signs of failed water pump (no coolant everywhere, no boiling coolant, car running/idling fine) I had the A/C running, too. I just recently noticed the crapola accessory belts and a slight odd whine (may be the crap belts)


I did a quick idle test, (let it idle for around 10 minutes) and I noticed the fan never came on....


Worst case scenario - water pump, (a known issue on these cars) but I think it may be the coolant temp sensor.

[CTScott]

Do you see the green "cool" light when you start it and see the light goes out after a couple of minutes of driving?

For the light to flash, the ECM would have to see the sensor indicate that the coolant is 242 F or more.

[2o6]

Do you see the green "cool" light when you start it and see the light goes out after a couple of minutes of driving?

Yep, engine cold light goes out/comes on normally. I drove the car to work (had let the car rest for 40 minutes) and the car was fine until literally I got to the parking lot of my job. Coolant light flashed red. I stopped, and checked under the hood (around 2-3 minutes passed) nothing to suggest otherwise. No pink coolant under the hood, no coolant everywhere no boiling coolant.

For the light to flash, the ECM would have to see the sensor indicate that the coolant is 242 F or more.

I'm thinking faulty sensor; I let the car idle for 10 minutes (had already been warmed up from the drive home from work) and I never heard the fan kick on. I figure the car would be ready to blow for the light to come on like that. But no symptoms that supports that.



I'm taking it to the Toyota dealer tomorrow and seeing what they say.

[2o6]

Would a malfunctioning rad fan (coupled with A/C on) cause this to happen?

[CTScott]

Would a malfunctioning rad fan (coupled with A/C on) cause this to happen?

It could, as could a stuck thermostat or plugged radiator.

Was the fan running when you pulled into the lot, or did you kill the engine before you got out and popped the hood?

[2o6]

It could, as could a stuck thermostat or plugged radiator.

Was the fan running when you pulled into the lot, or did you kill the engine before you got out and popped the hood?

Fan was not running, IIRC.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Was the fan not running with the A/C on either? The fan should run continuously while the A/C pump is running.

[2o6]

Got it back from the Toyota dealer



Fan relay and motor died.



Cost of replacement? Nearly $1000.



Screw that, I'm going to an indie shop.

[2o6]

Anyone know the part numbers and such for this? The dealer's charge seems just too high for me to pay.

EDIT


Quick search shows I can get a NEW fan w/motor and fan relay for around $100 combined.



What the heck? How does the dealer get off on charging that price?

[eTiMaGo]

less people want to buy parts from dealers, so...

dealers jack up the profit margin to compensate, so...

less people want to buy parts from dealers, so....

ad infinitum...

[2o6]

If the fan isn't turning because the motor is out, why would they be charging me for the shroud, blades, bearing, when the part online is already assembled and pretty much only the motor is broke?

[pennyracer]

because they are changing the hole unit as one instead of just replacing the motor only not sure if you can even buy the motor by itself

[pennyracer]

is you coolant level up all the way and the overflow box included

[CTScott]

I have a feeling that they didn't troubleshoot it and just pulled a number out of the air. The chances of both the relay being bad and the fan being bad is pretty slim.

I would start with checking out the 30A RDI fuse in the under hood fuse panel.

From there, there are actually two relays for the fan. One is the primary switching relay (FAN NO.1 Relay) and the second (FAN NO. 2 Relay) switches the speed of the fan by switching in a huge resistor.

If you have a multimeter (or a friend who does) it is very easy to test out the relays.

[2o6]

The relay is fine, the motor is burnt out (confirmed). Rock auto shows that the entire fan is around $70-120 fully assembled, motor included.

-------
Here is their rundown:

32 Amp $17.46
Cooling fan $ 52.60
Cooling fan Relay $ 82.51 (it's actually only $30)
Shroud $118.21
Fan $101.33
Motor $206.90
Nut $ 14.46

Labor - $360.67

$954.35....plus tax.

---------

I called my shop, they're at around $100 labor, but I would need to supply the part. Ordering it through the dealer only comes piece by piece. I'm either going to rockauto it, or junkyard it.

[CTScott]

There are two relays. The Fan Relay No. 1 is part of the integration relay, which is about $80 from a dealer. The Fan Relay No. 2 is the $30 dealer one.

Out of curiosity, how did you confirm the burnt out fan motor?

[2o6]

There are two relays. The Fan Relay No. 1 is part of the integration relay, which is about $80 from a dealer. The Fan Relay No. 2 is the $30 dealer one.

Out of curiosity, how did you confirm the burnt out fan motor?


They used the diagnostic tool to confirm that the fan motor is burnt out. Then there is a lot of drag on the blades itself.

[CTScott]

They used the diagnostic tool to confirm that the fan motor is burnt out. Then there is a lot of drag on the blades itself.

OK. I was just curious, as I've seen a couple of bad integration relays on Yaris, but never yet a bad fan motor.

[2o6]

I just ordered the whole fan unit assembly from rock auto, here's to seeing if it's worth it. Includes fan, motor and entire shroud. Pretty much drop it in and plug it up.

[auxmike]

CT Scott;
Is the integration relay the one that has like 3 or 4 relays built into a rectangular black plastic piece? Do you have a pt # for the 2008 LB fitment?
THX!

[CTScott]

CT Scott;
Is the integration relay the one that has like 3 or 4 relays built into a rectangular black plastic piece? Do you have a pt # for the 2008 LB fitment?
THX!

Yes. It is the one that is part of the under hood fuse panel. Part number is: 82641-47020

[auxmike]

This? 35$ used. States its for an '07 Sequoia. Same P/N though...

[CTScott]

This? 35$ used. States its for an '07 Sequoia. Same P/N though...

Yes. The same one is used in a boat load of Toyotas.

[2o6]

~$90 and three days shipping later.....


http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/389237_3365789990078_1638843415_n.jpg

New fan, with motor, preassembled, ready to drop into my car.

[2o6]

Holy heck. Just figured out what CTScott was talking about with the 30A blown fuse. $4 later, the fuse is in.

Old fan works fine.

[2o6]

Part of me wants to rip the dealer a new one. Another part of me feels stupid for not figuring this out sooner.

[why?]

the dealer should have known. There is a reason we take cars to mechanics. We can't possibly know everything.

[09sedan]

can u return the fan assembly?

[YarMinor]

Hi, 2o6. I recently found that my relay AND motor have gone bad. The relay is burnt (can be seen through the clear top of the pink relay) and the fan motor needs replacement, as well. I saw that you got the whole assembly for $90 according to your last post, but I can only find it online for around $300. Can I ask where you got the fan assembly?

[bronsin]

Always check the fuse first when theres an electrical problem...

Been there done that!

[esse10]

Always check the fuse first when theres an electrical problem...

Been there done that!

Good Idea and you can go even farther and use an Ohm meter on the fuse socket before putting the new fuse in to check if it's gonna blow the fuse again. If resistance is too low on the meter in reference to chassis ground and then apply the good old ohm's law with 14vdc from the battery you can figure out why it's pulling too much current to blow the fuse. Or perhaps it's blowing the fuse after it get's hot or engine warms up.......... good luck to ya :thumbsup:

[bronsin]

Wow never thought of ohming out the empty fuse socket. :iono:

That shows what I know. :redface:

[YarMinor]

ok, so 14 volts through a 30 amp fuse.

V = I * R

14v = 30A * R

R = 14/30 = 0.46 Ohms.


Is a bad fan likely to blow a fuse? I saw somewhere in this thread that both a bad fan and a blown fuse are unlikely, but it seems to me that a bad fan could blow a fuse....

Also, my mechanic wants to charge me $385 for parts and labor to replace the fan. But I know that the replacement wouldn't take me ah hour or so to do, and 2o6 mentioned that he got the parts online for $90. Does anyone know where I can find that? Can I get a junk fan?

[CTScott]

A fan can fail as an open or short. A short will blow the fuse. It can also fail mechanically where it binds and draws enough current to blow it. I had broken fan blades on crashy2 and picked up a fan from a junkyard for $40.

[contraband831]

Just had this same thing happen to my yaris, the fan was working here and there and finally died, I initially thought the a/c needed a recharge, then i got the temp light and it turned out to be the fan. I was able to get a new fan assembly for a little under $90 shipped from amazon. Installation was a breeze!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Take your pick:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1433326,parttype,2181,a,www.google.com%2 BSearch%2Bfor%2B2007%2BTOYOTA%2BYARIS%2B1.5L%2BL4, ck%5BID%5D,0,ck%5Bidlist%5D,0,ck%5Bviewcurrency%5D ,USD,ck%5BPHP_SESSION_ID%5D,95u55hg2enihl2ho6o3koq vst6

[YarMinor]

Hell yes. Thank you contraband831 and Kaotic Lazagna for being awesome. I got it off Amazon from TYC because I get $3.99 one-day shipping. I hear that the removal and installation can easily be DIYed, and the fuse is pretty easy, too.

Thanks again! Saved me like $250 :)

[bronsin]

Oh yeah on my old Honda ST1100 I had the auto turn on for the fan fail. I wired in a switch to turn it on and off manually and just watched the temp gauge. Actually the fan only turns on by itself on really hot days in traffic. Even at 100 degrees (out west) on the open road it never came on. Maybe using AC makes it come on.

[YarMinor]

Yeah, when you are cruising, the radiator gets air-cooled, and doesn't need the fan

[Amdkt7]

I cringed when I read the OP post about sitting for 10 minutes with the light on. If I have an over temp indication I'm shutting that thing down ASAP until I verify what is going on. It seems that the dealer mechanics cannot or will not trouble shoot anything. Just throw parts at it, in warranty or out of warranty.

My Kia got a brand new cat and some other parts before they found that a noise was actually what it sounded like (a loose bolt, with a washer rattling). I told them it was a loose bolt somewhere (from a timing belt change), but they threw parts at it for a while before they finally checked the lower timing belt cover.

[2o6]

I cringed when I read the OP post about sitting for 10 minutes with the light on. If I have an over temp indication I'm shutting that thing down ASAP until I verify what is going on. It seems that the dealer mechanics cannot or will not trouble shoot anything. Just throw parts at it, in warranty or out of warranty.

My Kia got a brand new cat and some other parts before they found that a noise was actually what it sounded like (a loose bolt, with a washer rattling). I told them it was a loose bolt somewhere (from a timing belt change), but they threw parts at it for a while before they finally checked the lower timing belt cover.

.....I didn't sit with 10 mins with the light on. It was after the car cooled down.