flashing coolant light

[2o6]

Drove my car to work today, noticed the flashing red light literally as I pulled up to my job. Popped the hood, no signs of failed water pump (no coolant everywhere, no boiling coolant, car running/idling fine) I had the A/C running, too. I just recently noticed the crapola accessory belts and a slight odd whine (may be the crap belts)


I did a quick idle test, (let it idle for around 10 minutes) and I noticed the fan never came on....


Worst case scenario - water pump, (a known issue on these cars) but I think it may be the coolant temp sensor.

[CTScott]

Do you see the green "cool" light when you start it and see the light goes out after a couple of minutes of driving?

For the light to flash, the ECM would have to see the sensor indicate that the coolant is 242 F or more.

[2o6]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Do you see the green "cool" light when you start it and see the light goes out after a couple of minutes of driving?

Yep, engine cold light goes out/comes on normally. I drove the car to work (had let the car rest for 40 minutes) and the car was fine until literally I got to the parking lot of my job. Coolant light flashed red. I stopped, and checked under the hood (around 2-3 minutes passed) nothing to suggest otherwise. No pink coolant under the hood, no coolant everywhere no boiling coolant.

For the light to flash, the ECM would have to see the sensor indicate that the coolant is 242 F or more.

I'm thinking faulty sensor; I let the car idle for 10 minutes (had already been warmed up from the drive home from work) and I never heard the fan kick on. I figure the car would be ready to blow for the light to come on like that. But no symptoms that supports that.

I'm taking it to the Toyota dealer tomorrow and seeing what they say.

[2o6]

Would a malfunctioning rad fan (coupled with A/C on) cause this to happen?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 2o6

Would a malfunctioning rad fan (coupled with A/C on) cause this to happen?

It could, as could a stuck thermostat or plugged radiator.

Was the fan running when you pulled into the lot, or did you kill the engine before you got out and popped the hood?

[2o6]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It could, as could a stuck thermostat or plugged radiator.

Was the fan running when you pulled into the lot, or did you kill the engine before you got out and popped the hood?

Fan was not running, IIRC.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Was the fan not running with the A/C on either? The fan should run continuously while the A/C pump is running.

[2o6]

Got it back from the Toyota dealer



Fan relay and motor died.



Cost of replacement? Nearly $1000.



Screw that, I'm going to an indie shop.

[2o6]

Anyone know the part numbers and such for this? The dealer's charge seems just too high for me to pay.

EDIT


Quick search shows I can get a NEW fan w/motor and fan relay for around $100 combined.



What the heck? How does the dealer get off on charging that price?

[eTiMaGo]

less people want to buy parts from dealers, so...

dealers jack up the profit margin to compensate, so...

less people want to buy parts from dealers, so....

ad infinitum...

[2o6]

If the fan isn't turning because the motor is out, why would they be charging me for the shroud, blades, bearing, when the part online is already assembled and pretty much only the motor is broke?

[pennyracer]

because they are changing the hole unit as one instead of just replacing the motor only not sure if you can even buy the motor by itself

[pennyracer]

is you coolant level up all the way and the overflow box included

[CTScott]

I have a feeling that they didn't troubleshoot it and just pulled a number out of the air. The chances of both the relay being bad and the fan being bad is pretty slim.

I would start with checking out the 30A RDI fuse in the under hood fuse panel.

From there, there are actually two relays for the fan. One is the primary switching relay (FAN NO.1 Relay) and the second (FAN NO. 2 Relay) switches the speed of the fan by switching in a huge resistor.

If you have a multimeter (or a friend who does) it is very easy to test out the relays.

[2o6]

The relay is fine, the motor is burnt out (confirmed). Rock auto shows that the entire fan is around $70-120 fully assembled, motor included.

-------
Here is their rundown:

32 Amp $17.46
Cooling fan $ 52.60
Cooling fan Relay $ 82.51 (it's actually only $30)
Shroud $118.21
Fan $101.33
Motor $206.90
Nut $ 14.46

Labor - $360.67

$954.35....plus tax.

---------

I called my shop, they're at around $100 labor, but I would need to supply the part. Ordering it through the dealer only comes piece by piece. I'm either going to rockauto it, or junkyard it.

[CTScott]

There are two relays. The Fan Relay No. 1 is part of the integration relay, which is about $80 from a dealer. The Fan Relay No. 2 is the $30 dealer one.

Out of curiosity, how did you confirm the burnt out fan motor?

[2o6]

Originally Posted by CTScott

There are two relays. The Fan Relay No. 1 is part of the integration relay, which is about $80 from a dealer. The Fan Relay No. 2 is the $30 dealer one.

Out of curiosity, how did you confirm the burnt out fan motor?

They used the diagnostic tool to confirm that the fan motor is burnt out. Then there is a lot of drag on the blades itself.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 2o6

They used the diagnostic tool to confirm that the fan motor is burnt out. Then there is a lot of drag on the blades itself.

OK. I was just curious, as I've seen a couple of bad integration relays on Yaris, but never yet a bad fan motor.