2012 indicator flasher relay

[Eren_13]

Hi everyone

I'm looking to change my front indicators to LEDs, is there anyone who can post a screenshot of where the indicator flasher relay is on their yaris? I have the 2012 shape SR if its any different. Looked in the handbook and can't seem to find anything there, unless I'm being a bit slow.. Also, are there any particular relays you've used that you'd recommend?

Thanks!

[CTScott]

For the 3rd gen Yaris it is actually built into the instrument cluster, so there is not a physical relay that you can change.

[Absolutely Red 12]

Hi everyone

I'm looking to change my front indicators to LEDs, is there anyone who can post a screenshot of where the indicator flasher relay is on their yaris? I have the 2012 shape SR if its any different. Looked in the handbook and can't seem to find anything there, unless I'm being a bit slow.. Also, are there any particular relays you've used that you'd recommend?

Thanks!

Turn signal LEDs only require inline load resistors to slow flashing to normal.

[CTScott]

Turn signal LEDs only require inline load resistors to slow flashing to normal.

On cars with a replaceable flasher relay it is better to replace the relay with one made to drive LEDs. The resistor method works, but wirewound resistors (the metal can type) must be used to prevent the risk of fire, as the resistors have to sink a lot of current (which makes them quite hot) in order to simulate the load of a bulb to keep the flasher circuit happy.

[Eren_13]

Thank you both for your replies.

I was afraid the flasher relay would be buried away seeing as though I couldn't find it in the book! I was looking at inline resistors, taking into account your second reply there CTScott - is it possible to have indicators with in built resistors or does the wire to the indicator require cutting to have these resistors fit?

[CTScott]

Thank you both for your replies.

I was afraid the flasher relay would be buried away seeing as though I couldn't find it in the book! I was looking at inline resistors, taking into account your second reply there CTScott - is it possible to have indicators with in built resistors or does the wire to the indicator require cutting to have these resistors fit?

I personally have not seen ones with built in resistors, as a proper resistor is almost as large as the bulb.

[Eren_13]

I personally have not seen ones with built in resistors, as a proper resistor is almost as large as the bulb.

Oh right, well that I didn't know, thanks :) Although its not a preferred method, do you know where I can get the suitable resistors to slow the flashing?

[CTScott]

Oh right, well that I didn't know, thanks :) Although its not a preferred method, do you know where I can get the suitable resistors to slow the flashing?

Any electronics supplier should carry them (mouser.com for example, which has a UK presence). Here is an example of what proper ones look like:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/led-product/190/831/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=RL-650&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=CM7F2um01LUCFdFT4Aod3VgAug

http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/uploads/RL-650-LED-load-resistor.jpg

[Eren_13]

Thanks for the reply. I'll check those out. If no luck will the ones you just sent me in the link be ok? And checking the installation diagram it shows those blue clamps - do they take away the need to cut the wires? You'll have to forgive all my questions.

Thanks again.

[CTScott]

Thanks for the reply. I'll check those out. If no luck will the ones you just sent me in the link be ok? And checking the installation diagram it shows those blue clamps - do they take away the need to cut the wires? You'll have to forgive all my questions.

Thanks again.

The company in that link is fine, if you can't find them locally. They show them with a set of "tap splice" connectors, which are used to connect to an existing wire without cutting it. In the case of the turn signals, you would simply tap the power and ground wires going to the light socket on either side to insert the resistor in parallel with the LED. That way you are not cutting the wires, and if you ever wanted to go back to stock you would just put a piece of electrical tape over the spot where the tap splice cut into the insulation of the wire.

[Eren_13]

You've been a massive help! Ok, so I think I have found some resistors local to me. They are the same value as the one in the link- 50w 6ohm, in a gold case too with tap splices. Ok, one more question (I think), will any LED indicator work with these now or are there certain voltage or output value indicators that work with these resistors?

[CTScott]

You've been a massive help! Ok, so I think I have found some resistors local to me. They are the same value as the one in the link- 50w 6ohm, in a gold case too with tap splices. Ok, one more question (I think), will any LED indicator work with these now or are there certain voltage or output value indicators that work with these resistors?

Any LED lamp will work with the resistors (provided that it is a replacement for the OEM bulb type).

One thing to remember when you do an LED conversion is that the fast flash is a safety thing that lets you know that a bulb is burned out, and since the resistor keeps the system happy, you won't know if an LED is out. So, routinely take a peek to make sure that they are OK.

[Eren_13]

Any LED lamp will work with the resistors (provided that it is a replacement for the OEM bulb type).

One thing to remember when you do an LED conversion is that the fast flash is a safety thing that lets you know that a bulb is burned out, and since the resistor keeps the system happy, you won't know if an LED is out. So, routinely take a peek to make sure that they are OK.


Noted. Many thanks for all your help. I've purchased the resistors and bulbs. May well post up a short video of them when it's done if anyone is interested!

[Eren_13]

Ok, got the resistors and LEDs. Tried to attach them but good old British weather - it's just started raining. Anyhow it gives me a chance to ask if it's advisable to disconnect the battery as I attach the splice tabs or if it's ok to go straight on?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

Ok, got the resistors and LEDs. Tried to attach them but good old British weather - it's just started raining. Anyhow it gives me a chance to ask if it's advisable to disconnect the battery as I attach the splice tabs or if it's ok to go straight on?

Thanks.

No need to disconnect the battery, since there will not be power to the turn signal bulbs while you are installing the resistors.

[Eren_13]

Thanks once again sir :) I only have 2 wires on each bulb socket, one is green and the other white. Am I right in thinking that there will be no polarity issues with these resistors?

[CTScott]

Thanks once again sir :) I only have 2 wires on each bulb socket, one is green and the other white. Am I right in thinking that there will be no polarity issues with these resistors?

Correct - The resistors are not polarized, but the LED bulbs will likely be. The green wire is positive and the white is ground.

[Eren_13]

Well, that's been very helpful. Clipped on perfectly, one thing, the indicator wire seems too small to fit in the splice clamp! It just goes straight through the middle of it. I guess the taps are too wide?

[CTScott]

Well, that's been very helpful. Clipped on perfectly, one thing, the indicator wire seems too small to fit in the splice clamp! It just goes straight through the middle of it. I guess the taps are too wide?

That sounds like the case. tap-splice connectors are available in various sizes to fit different wire diameters. They are typically color coded, where red ones would be for 24 to 18 AWG wire, which would be the correct sizing for those wires on the Yaris.

[Eren_13]

That sounds like the case. tap-splice connectors are available in various sizes to fit different wire diameters. They are typically color coded, where red ones would be for 24 to 18 AWG wire, which would be the correct sizing for those wires on the Yaris.

Your knowledge knows no bounds it seems! That is the case this time, it's off to get some red tap-splices then :) I'll have these fitted eventually, promise! And once again, thank you for your help. It is very much appreciated.

[Eren_13]

Right, I've managed to install the resistors with the correct tap splices this time! I'll post a video if anyone wants to see? I was just having a little look around on eBay and came across these 'resistors' http://bit.ly/108oxQf

What's everyone's views on these? Are they better / any safer than load resistors with regards to heat? I only ask as I'd rather like to install LED flashers for the rear lights now but notice that there's quite a lot of plastic back there which I know isn't ideal for mounting load resistors.

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Right, I've managed to install the resistors with the correct tap splices this time! I'll post a video if anyone wants to see? I was just having a little look around on eBay and came across these 'resistors' http://bit.ly/108oxQf

What's everyone's views on these? Are they better / any safer than load resistors with regards to heat? I only ask as I'd rather like to install LED flashers for the rear lights now but notice that there's quite a lot of plastic back there which I know isn't ideal for mounting load resistors.

Thanks!

With those being packaged that way you can't tell what kind of resistor is used, so I would actually avoid that type. I would rather use a wire wound metal package one, so I know it is the proper type.

[Eren_13]

Thanks again. Given the amount of plastic at the back in the housing, is it safe to mount a second set of load resistors back there? I managed to mount them at the front OK, I could make sure the resistor does not touch too much of the plastic.

Lastly, I also stumbled actoss these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-AMBER-No-Resistor-Required-7507-BAU15s-PY21W-20-SMD-LED-Lights-/221076959783 boasting 'no resistor' needed as they're already built in. Could these be for real and if so, are they suitable?

Thanks again.

[CTScott]

Thanks again. Given the amount of plastic at the back in the housing, is it safe to mount a second set of load resistors back there? I managed to mount them at the front OK, I could make sure the resistor does not touch too much of the plastic.

Lastly, I also stumbled actoss these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-AMBER-No-Resistor-Required-7507-BAU15s-PY21W-20-SMD-LED-Lights-/221076959783 boasting 'no resistor' needed as they're already built in. Could these be for real and if so, are they suitable?

Thanks again.

The metal cased load resistors should not get too hot, where you need to worry about the plastic melting. The bulbs with built in resistors are legitimate, but the way that they are made they will likely fail quickly due to the head from the internal load resistor.

[Eren_13]

That's great. So if anything then I'll stick to the load resistors. I'll try to mount them safely even though you did mention they shouldn't get too hot. Thanks once again.

[Eren_13]

Forgive me, I have a final question (I think): Is there anything againt me having front and rear indicator LEDs? I think I remember seeing somewhere that it was better to have only 2 changed. I do however have side flashers in my mirrors which are the standard bulb and not LED if it makes a difference.

[CTScott]

Forgive me, I have a final question (I think): Is there anything againt me having front and rear indicator LEDs? I think I remember seeing somewhere that it was better to have only 2 changed. I do however have side flashers in my mirrors which are the standard bulb and not LED if it makes a difference.

It is fine to change them all. If you only changed the front or only the rear, you could possibly get away with not needing the load resistors, as you would still have a set of high wattage bulbs in circuit.

[Eren_13]

It is fine to change them all. If you only changed the front or only the rear, you could possibly get away with not needing the load resistors, as you would still have a set of high wattage bulbs in circuit.

Oh right, I didn't think of it that way. So using reverse logic, could that mean that because I have the load resistors on the front, it be that if I put LEDs in the back without resistors, would the front resistors still be taking the high wattage and therefore take away the need to install load resistors at the back or does it not work that (oh so simple) way?

[CTScott]

Oh right, I didn't think of it that way. So using reverse logic, could that mean that because I have the load resistors on the front, it be that if I put LEDs in the back without resistors, would the front resistors still be taking the high wattage and therefore take away the need to install load resistors at the back or does it not work that (oh so simple) way?

The front and rear bulbs are connected together, so you should only need one resistor per side on either the front or back.

[Eren_13]

Just tried putting the LEDs in the rear and I seem to be getting hyperflash all round now. I have at the moment only load resistors at the front. One on each side. I take it I'll need them all round?

[CTScott]

Just tried putting the LEDs in the rear and I seem to be getting hyperflash all round now. I have at the moment only load resistors at the front. One on each side. I take it I'll need them all round?

It does sound that way. The flasher relay must be setup to require the resistance of both the rear and front bulbs in parallel.

[Eren_13]

Makes sense, and upon trying these LEDs at the back, I've quickly realised its going to be a difficult task trying to get those resistors onto the wires! It's very tight back there.

[Eren_13]

Little update and sort of an FYI - CTScott, turns out your theory was correct the whole time! I do only need one resistor on each side. I bought another pair of the same LEDs and tried those without and they work perfectly. No more fried egg effect at the back now. And they're lovely and bright. Thanks again :) I'll attach a before and after.

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/EN_12/904230CA-63B5-4FA3-B768-4FEBCCC08C3A-13600-00000A35DDBB2B30.jpg

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj531/EN_12/415B23C4-C265-4F8F-AEBB-C7278A29455E-13600-00000A35E6EDAC46.jpg