How long have you ever gone between oil changes?

[bentjazz]

Hi Yarisworlders,

Just curious the longest you guys have gone between oil changes. I'm kind of anal retentive about changing the oil, but am thinking about easing up my intervals a bit....
Thanks.

bj

[CB900F2]

Using amsoil and doing 15k km between oil changes

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Most I've done was 13 months/ ~14k miles. Using Amsoil oil and oil filter.

[harda toenail]

I've never gone over 3k miles. But I never drive far at all. 3k miles is about 6 months for me. I tend to change it before and after winter, and once in the summer.

[Idahotom]

Mobile 1 and about every 10K, that's about 8 months for me.

[BEEF]

Personally, I do the 5k oil change.

I was once part of a gas saving forum. There was a guy their touting this stuff called synlube (syn-lube) that was supposed to be a once in a lifetime oil change. I am no longer a member on that site (actually web site doesn't exist anymore) but last I heard, he was at 56,000 miles without changing it. We were all waiting for something catastrophic to happen.

[IllusionX]

Personally, I do the 5k oil change.

I was once part of a gas saving forum. There was a guy their touting this stuff called synlube (syn-lube) that was supposed to be a once in a lifetime oil change. I am no longer a member on that site (actually web site doesn't exist anymore) but last I heard, he was at 56,000 miles without changing it. We were all waiting for something catastrophic to happen.

once a year oil change is possible with a bypass filter.

Most i've done is 10k km.. about 6.2k miles. I should stick to 5k oil change, but i think i will go with 3k changes, since i'm doing alot of short trips and condensation seem to build up in the winter.

[Exiwolfman]

mobile 1 every 5k.....for the ppl that are doing it at 10k to 15k is just ridicules....ull pay for it in a long run. Also can and will void warranty .

[jambo101]

mobile 1 every 5k.....for the ppl that are doing it at 10k to 15k is just ridicules....ull pay for it in a long run. Also can and will void warranty .

10,000kms with synthetic oil is my routine, my last 2 Toyotas have gone 300K kilometers and never had any oil related problems.What problems do you expect me to pay for in the long run?

[MyzticZ3r0]

I usually change my between 4500 and 5000 miles, which is about every four months for me.

[nookandcrannycar]

for the ppl that are doing it at 10k to 15k is just ridicules....ull pay for it in a long run.

What do you consider a long run :biggrin: ? My longest interval between oil/filter changes on my Yaris has been 34,014 miles. I followed that up with the shortest interval (2,430 miles) re the next oil/filter change. My oil/filter change intervals through about 235k miles (15 changes with the last one at just under 226k ) are on post #62 (Page 4) on narly charley's Post your oil change regimen! thread (5 page thread started January of 2013). My 16th oil/filter change (post 76, page 5) was at 240,010 miles. I had Gullo Toyota change my spark plugs at about 208k miles, and they said my engine was in great condition at that point. They looked for things to recommend to me to do, and all they could come up with was the air filter...I had already purchased one (not at the dealership) and put it in right after I drove away from the dealership.

This new thread bentjazz just started has motivated me to plan time over the weekend to update my logbook (Thanks bentjazz! :thumbsup:). I keep all of my receipts in chronological order. I also write the miles on car, miles on tank, and MPG on each receipt (I record these while still at the pump)....so updating my logbook (last entry = August 2013 IIRC :redface:) will be pretty easy. I just had my oil changed last week (274,071 miles)....only about 7k since last change, but I needed the free battery check. So 240k =16th, one at about 266-267k and probably one between 240k and 266-267k. So I'm at 18 or 19 changes overall....18 would put me at a bit over 15k between changes as an overall average. Other than tires/batteries/spark plugs/air filters/bulbs, etc (routine maintenance at extended intervals), and recent rear end damage (paid for by other driver's insurance company), the only repairs I've had to do are front wheel bearings at about 110k and a new alternator at about 159k. Still original clutch, transmission, all brake parts including pads and shoes, radiator (never a flush, just added coolant 1x), hoses, water pump, fuel system, exhaust system, engine (only 1 plug change and oil/filter changes as above and on narly charley's thread), AC system (never have had to touch it) etc. :smile:

[nookandcrannycar]

I knew a guy in the late 1970's (became stepfather to one of my best friends). He had a big Chrysler that was about 10 years old (or more) and had 160k-170k+ miles on it. He claimed that he had never changed the oil on this vehicle. Knowing him.....and seeing and hearing the car....I think this was possibly the case :biggrin:.

[nookandcrannycar]

What do you consider a long run :biggrin: ? My longest interval between oil/filter changes on my Yaris has been 34,014 miles. I followed that up with the shortest interval (2,430 miles) re the next oil/filter change. My oil/filter change intervals through about 235k miles (15 changes with the last one at just under 226k ) are on post #62 (Page 4) on narly charley's Post your oil change regimen! thread (5 page thread started January of 2013). My 16th oil/filter change (post 76, page 5) was at 240,010 miles. I had Gullo Toyota change my spark plugs at about 208k miles, and they said my engine was in great condition at that point. They looked for things to recommend to me to do, and all they could come up with was the air filter...I had already purchased one (not at the dealership) and put it in right after I drove away from the dealership.

This new thread bentjazz just started has motivated me to plan time over the weekend to update my logbook (Thanks bentjazz! :thumbsup:). I keep all of my receipts in chronological order. I also write the miles on car, miles on tank, and MPG on each receipt (I record these while still at the pump)....so updating my logbook (last entry = August 2013 IIRC :redface:) will be pretty easy. I just had my oil changed last week (274,071 miles)....only about 7k since last change, but I needed the free battery check. So 240k =16th, one at about 266-267k and probably one between 240k and 266-267k. So I'm at 18 or 19 changes overall....18 would put me at a bit over 15k between changes as an overall average. Other than tires/batteries/spark plugs/air filters/bulbs, etc (routine maintenance at extended intervals), and recent rear end damage (paid for by other driver's insurance company), the only repairs I've had to do are front wheel bearings at about 110k and a new alternator at about 159k. Still original clutch, transmission, all brake parts including pads and shoes, radiator (never a flush, just added coolant 1x), hoses, water pump, fuel system, exhaust system, engine (only 1 plug change and oil/filter changes as above and on narly charley's thread), AC system (never have had to touch it) etc. :smile:

^^^^^BTW, all dino oil.....no synthetic.

[Exiwolfman]

all i can say do what you like , i work on cars everyday and see the importance of oil change. I find ppl are just cheap or lazy to keep to the 5k -8k interval ur car ur money..i see first hand what comes out in the cars with oil that was driven for over 10k...oil is just oil dont matter who makes it looses its viscosity and the ability to protect ur engine.
I have seen two , one a rav4 with no oil change since new with 89k when it came in with a blown engine..second a 2 yr old Venza 40k since the last oil was more like sludge.
Call me old school but i believe that best thing u can do for ur car is a regular oil change, specially with the new thinner oils that modern engines run..its like water. Yaris runs 5w30 or 0w20 syn or even 5w20 i did try 0w20 and did not like it more like the car did not like it, like i said its like water.
I use mobile 5w30 mainly cos of the cold weather start ups otherwise reg 5w30 is just fine the believe that u can run syn longer i dont think has any ground ...when i do my oil change after 5k it comes out clean not black ...but that is just me my car .
If everyone looked after cars like i do I would be out of work..lol

just my 2cents on this topic

[MyzticZ3r0]

^ I believe this topic has been beaten quite a bit. Everyone has their preference. Let others run their car how they want to be - experience eventually leads to wisdom =].

[nookandcrannycar]

all i can say do what you like , i work on cars everyday and see the importance of oil change. I find ppl are just cheap or lazy to keep to the 5k -8k interval ur car ur money..i see first hand what comes out in the cars with oil that was driven for over 10k...oil is just oil dont matter who makes it looses its viscosity and the ability to protect ur engine.
I have seen two , one a rav4 with no oil change since new with 89k when it came in with a blown engine..second a 2 yr old Venza 40k since the last oil was more like sludge.
Call me old school but i believe that best thing u can do for ur car is a regular oil change, specially with the new thinner oils that modern engines run..its like water. Yaris runs 5w30 or 0w20 syn or even 5w20 i did try 0w20 and did not like it more like the car did not like it, like i said its like water.
I use mobile 5w30 mainly cos of the cold weather start ups otherwise reg 5w30 is just fine the believe that u can run syn longer i dont think has any ground ...when i do my oil change after 5k it comes out clean not black ...but that is just me my car .
If everyone looked after cars like i do I would be out of work..lol

just my 2cents on this topic

I was just having a little fun (why I inserted the :biggrin: and :smile:), but totally my fault that that didn't come accross -- :bonk: on my part. I apologize :smile:. I truly, truly didn't mean to offend you. Of course more often is better. Except on things that have to do directly with safety (control arm bolts, brakes, anything else re steering, tread on tires = among what come to mind), I try to sort of play 'virtuoso of value' (squeezing the most out of the least) just to see if I can. If any of the things you mentioned happened, I would just buy a new car (given the miles on my current Yaris). I've looked at it that way for a long time. I realize everyone can't look at it that way, and I try not to be insensitive to that (especially these days), but sometimes I fail. Until recently, I thought (unconditionally) that I'd keep my Yaris after getting another one and either (to learn something new) try to teach myself how to fix it, or pay someone else to do the work (not letting it go because I'd have full knowledge of its history since new). Now I think that that will depend on mileage, what other cars are available at the time, and other factors.

Just out of curiosity (I really don't know, but am curious), are the issues you mention more likely to happen to owners who live in areas where harsh winters are the norm?

[nookandcrannycar]

^experience eventually leads to wisdom =].

:smile: I know that more is better. :smile: I'm sort of experimenting...going as far as I can without feeling alarmed and seeing If there is a consequence. I don't think I would sell an old car of mine to a private party (the last time I did that was at age 18). I've never had anything go wrong with the engine on a car that I purchased new. Ironically, the car that I had the most problems with, over the span of new to almost 195k miles, was the car that I was most fanatical about re changing the oil and filter....my GTI.

[Exiwolfman]

GTI VW....no need to say more ...not offended everybody has there way of doing stuff maintenance is the key and as for climate ...it has a huge factor on ur car i so wish i did not have to deal with winter and use a torch on every bolt in order to remove it..lol
I say stock to ur car manual and ull be all right .

[Exiwolfman]

^ I believe this topic has been beaten quite a bit. Everyone has their preference. Let others run their car how they want to be - experience eventually leads to wisdom =].

:clap:could not say it any better

[nookandcrannycar]

GTI VW....no need to say more

Yeah...too bad there isn't an acronym from those 5 letters that conveys the same message Fix It Again Tony does for old Fiats :redface:.

not have to deal with winter and use a torch on every bolt in order to remove it..lol

:eek: Wow. I spent one winter season with snow and ice in the mountains, but I locked my keys in my car a day or so after my arrival. No AAA within 50 miles so I was SOL. No access to my car until my girlfriend had enough time to drive up with another set of keys (months later...and it was warmer by then). I just walked and took the free shuttle wherever I needed to go. We left the area a couple of times over the season, but got rides with others and contributed gas money. Besides that winter, vehicles I've owned have only been in snow re ski trips.....essentially nothing.....a blip on the radar compared to what you guys in the northern parts of the U.S. and Canada must go through. Hats off to you :thumbsup:.

[frambach]

...oil is just oil dont matter who makes it looses its viscosity and the ability to protect ur engine.


Permission to argue this point if you don't mind.

Technically, oil doesn't lose viscosity over time. It gains viscosity, getting thicker over time which can then lead to sludge conditions (extra thick).

It does matter who makes the oil as well. A properly formulated motor oil is like Mr. Universe. You can't go hit the gym every day of the week and only work on curls all day and expect to win Mr. Universe. You've got to do it all. A motor oil is similar.

Some manufacturers choose to focus on making their oil minimize deposits. Others might put more effort into wear reduction. While others still might focus on cold flow properties.

My last oil change (on our 2008 Yaris liftback) had 13,946 miles on it and I had done a used oil analysis (UOA) on it at 12,538. At that time, the viscosity was still in check @ 11.4cSt but had thickened up from the viscosity of a new bottle which is 10.5cSt. The maximum centistokes allowed to be classified as a 5W-30 is 12.5cSt. So, as you can see, our oil was still quite clearly a 5W-30.

Over time, if left in the crankcase, this oil would eventually become thick and no longer be a 5W-30 but more of a 5W-40. But that would be a long way off. What I'm finding is that I'm running low on TBN way before any other factors would indicate it's time for an oil change. In other words, my viscosity is good, my wear metals are good, my additives are good, my contaminants are in check, etc but my TBN is getting low.

I find oil interesting and pushing it longer than your average driver is sort of like a hobby. I don't claim to know it all but I feel like I've got a pretty good handle on it.

For what it's worth, I've now dropped to a 0W-20 with 115,000 on the car. I will be doing oil analysis on this oil as well.

I'll be happy to advise on oil. It's what I do. If you don't know what centistokes are or how they're measured or if you don't know what TBN is, let me help you understand oil.

On my last road trip, I had 2 men, all of our gear for 4 days away from home and ELEVEN full cases of oil (12 quarts each case - each case weighs in the range of 24 pounds). I have 15" Miata wheels on our Yaris and I got 35.8 miles per gallon on that trip. Now, before any hyper-milers turn their nose up at that. Know that I made it from Daytona Beach, FL to Murfreesboro, TN in about 8.5 hours (according to Google Maps, it's a 9.5 hour trip) and I don't have LRR tires either. In my opinion, I made stellar time and got great gas mileage in the process.

There's a difference between an ASE Certified Mechanic and chemist or a tribologist. There's a whole science to lubricants - it's complex and interesting.

*about the author (me): I'm ex-Quality Control for BMW and an ex-Technician for Jaguar. I've worked in a shop where we restored classic British automobiles (which lead to the Jaguar deal - at a Jaguar dealership) and I'm a 3x certified welder. I'm now a T-1 Certified AMSOIL Direct Jobber. In other words, when I get into something, I REALLY get in to it.

[Exiwolfman]

We'll than the problem is not so much the oil but filtration a better way to keep it clean as the article states ,it can last a long time . That maybe true problem is that it brakes down do to the contaminants like I said I see what comes out ....I for one do and always will change my oil at 5k ...longer life ,sludge free engine .


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[fnkngrv]

I actually went 18k miles (not km) on my first engine once before I went boosted. Sent out for an analysis and it came back fine. Really need to see if I can still track that down. It was before I had a file server in the house. It was with AMSOIL Sig Series 5-20 and the EA filter to go along with it. Was only supposed to be good for 15k miles to boot. I was about a half quart low at that point.

[trunkout]

Mobile 1 and about every 10K, that's about 8 months for me.

Done that with my last four cars. Never seen it burn...
Always comes out looking new.

[fnkngrv]

Done that with my last four cars. Never seen it burn...
Always comes out looking new.

To be completely blunt you can't just "look" at used oil. That does not a bit of good. Case in point is a guy on the new 1nz Enthusiasts Garage from PR. He had an analysis report done on his Royal Purple. He was pretty disappointed because it always "looks" good.

From my m-o-b-i-l-e

[Septembersrain]

Honestly, old habits die hard. They keep telling me to wait 5k miles. Yet like clockwork, I'm in at 3k.

»Sent from a larger than life device. Using Tapatalk«

[bronsin]

Hi Yarisworlders,

Just curious the longest you guys have gone between oil changes. I'm kind of anal retentive about changing the oil, but am thinking about easing up my intervals a bit....
Thanks.

bj

When I drove to the Arctic Circle in Alaska from NJ and back (5200 miles one way) I did it on one oil change.

In the Walmart parking lot of Fairbanks I changed the oil. I used Mobile One because gas in northern Cananda was $6-7 dollars a gallon and I hoped to save some money. This is one claim oil companies (used to) make for synthetic oil. :iono:

I didnt use less gas on the way home in fact I used slightly more. :headbang:

Because I drive about 5k miles a year I now change my oil every 6 months. I used to go 3 month regardness of miles. Im thing I will go to one oil filter a year too.

[yougojay]

I'll be doing/ have been doing 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Purchased 4/11/2013 - 5,000 miles & my 1st freebie oil change around 10/11/2013 - 1 year will be 4/11/2014, but right now I have about 6,300 miles. I'll call the service guy at Toyota who I dealt with, but I would imagine it will be changed again regardless of the miles I've put on it.
I did change the factory fill out at 1,500 - I'll stick to 4,000-5,000 mile intervals as the years go by. I have a bunch of Baldwin B33 & B37 (longer) oil filters for it, so I'm set for a long time.

[alanwagen]

3 k is a waste of oil and money. Even Click and Clack say go 5k with conventional.

I go 10k with synthetic and a Toyota filter with no probs and still good looking oil at change time. Oil is soooo much better that the old days and with fuel injected cars, a lot less dilution.

[malibuguy]

I run amsoil 0-20w with a corolla amsoil filter. 15k intervals and im at 73k. Motor runs amazing and is gorgeous inside.

[47_MasoN_47]

I do 5k with Mobil 1 synthetic. Change the filter and oil at the same time. It'd probably last longer but I just don't feel like getting an analysis done. It's so easy to change the Yaris oil I'd rather just do it every 5k and not worry about it.

[krolos]

I just had my 3rd oil change done using amsoil 5-30 signature,
went 16,000 miles this time before change and with the 15,000 mile
filter , oil looked the same as it did at 5,000 miles and no burn.
I switched over to using amsoil synthetic at 60,000 miles, at
86,000 now, nice only to change oil about every 10-12 month.

[why?]

there is a reason manufacturers recommend 7500 miles. 3k is just keeping the oil change places in business. So is 5k. I generally go 6 or 7k unless I need to take the car in for something else, or I wait until I see my gas mileage drop.

[randeez]

I wait for the maint req'd light to come on...then wait about 6 months :iono:

I usually do about 10k miles with syn 0w-20 or 5w-20/30 and wix filter. i'had tire shop change my oil if it was in there anyway up on rack (lazy) , they use some crap they call "synthetic blend" engine seems to run a bit rough in the upper rpms around 9-10k miles so I went back to doing it myself.
which is usually every 2 or 3 months, and its south florida.... we broke into the 40s maybe once this past winter so I don't worry about cold starts

[JustPassinThru]

Longest I've ever gone is about 7000 miles. Which wasn't that long since it was on a long, long trip...I put those 7000 miles on in two weeks.

It depends on the use. Long, highway trips with minimal idling or stop/go driving, will cause less contamination of the oil. Cold weather and short trips, more.

The danger is twofold: Sludge, which comes from condensation in the crankcase (unavoidable) mixing with the oil; and dilution, gasoline washdown into the crankcase; as well as blowby from the piston rings. Washdown is not a problem with FI these days, but there is no avoiding blowby.

So...the ONLY prudent thing to do with your investment...is CHANGE OIL REGULARLY.

[frambach]

3 k is a waste of oil and money. Even Click and Clack say go 5k with conventional.

I go 10k with synthetic and a Toyota filter with no probs and still good looking oil at change time. Oil is soooo much better that the old days and with fuel injected cars, a lot less dilution.

3k is a waste of money. You're absolutely right. 5k should be the minimum.

Actually fuel dilution is now getting worse again. We can thank the EPA for that.

They started messing with diesels in 2007. Adding more complex EGR systems, particulate filters, and urea injection.

We're starting to see the 'trickle down' of that in gasoline burners. Expect to see more fuel enriched oil problems as time goes on. The newer turbo direct injection engines are really the ones to keep an eye on.

I'm not saying 'the sky is falling' but I am saying things are changing and because of these changes, we might see some problems for a bit until manufacturers can identify problems that develop in the real world and work out solutions to them for their future models.

[frambach]

To be completely blunt you can't just "look" at used oil. That does not a bit of good. Case in point is a guy on the new 1nz Enthusiasts Garage from PR. He had an analysis report done on his Royal Purple. He was pretty disappointed because it always "looks" good.

From my m-o-b-i-l-e

A person can draw no conclusion on the state of their oil by simply looking at it other than to check the current oil level.

I've never seen Royal Purple perform overwhelmingly good in any real test (going back 3+ years). It's just a middle-of-the-pack, well marketed motor oil in my opinion.

I run amsoil 0-20w with a corolla amsoil filter. 15k intervals and im at 73k. Motor runs amazing and is gorgeous inside.

What filter number is that? What's the benefit of running it over the recommended filter for the Yaris?

AMSOIL has discontinued the EA15K10 if that's the filter you were running, you're going to have to revert back to the EA15K09.

We'll than the problem is not so much the oil but filtration a better way to keep it clean as the article states ,it can last a long time . That maybe true problem is that it brakes down do to the contaminants like I said I see what comes out ....I for one do and always will change my oil at 5k ...longer life ,sludge free engine .


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Wolf, if you could see the inside of the motor was clean and you got back a used oil analysis with 5,000 miles on the oil that said 'your oil is absolutely perfect, there is no need to change it right now', would you still walk outside and drain the oil?

Filtration is not the issue either. With a completed analysis, there would be tell-tale signs that the oil filter was no longer effectively doing it's job and that's not happening. I'm looking at my most recent analysis in another window while I type this. The following are families of metals that are all checked on a UOA:
- wear metals
- contaminant metals
- multi-source metals
- additive metals
They're all good! I can take off my oil fill cap and shine a light in my valve cover, it's so clean! When I remove my oil dipstick, there aren't any varnished up spots on it. My dipstick looks like it did the day the car had 1 mile on it. You know how dipsticks will get that used oil 'glaze' in certain spots? Not mine.

[Rigaud]

Been using Mobile1 on almost all my vehicles the past 30 years and my dad way longer then that. We go 20,000 km between changes on our every day passenger vehicles and 10,000 km on tuned or mod cars. Every 5,000 km we clean or replace the air filter, I usually verify several times before 5,000 km. Also I replace the oil filter every 5,000 km, fill the new oil filter before installing it. I have a 1995 Chrysler minivan for work with 383,000 km, runs perfect. My 1999 SLT Suburban also on Mobile1 with 293,000 km and doesn't pass or burn more oil then when it was purchased new. My dad's 86' Cadilac Fleetwood was sold with 450,000km always on Mobile1 and oil changes at 20,000km, sometimes more. New owner can't believe how well maintained it was and that it doesn't use more oil then new.

So...................personally I have done it with great success and unless you have hands on experience, don't knock it.

[BobTheYaris]

I've gone 10k and change with Royal Purple when moneys been tight. I normally go 7.5k between regular changes with this oil and have been using it for years.

[xb visitor]

I'm a believer in synthetic I have always used 5-30wt usually Mobil 1 or a generic brand synthetic oil. I've had several vehicles that when swapped to synthetic the operating temps dropped about 10 degrees..So that convinced me to stay on that path.

I've done the majority of my changes at between 5k and the longest was over 11k, I live 2 hrs east of Los Angeles and ITS HOT:evil: where I live. HOT as in 120 degrees!!:evil: in the summer and 2 months over 100 degrees EVERY DAY. I drive my little car ..quite hard, Im sure I drive the poor thing FAR harder than most people here probably anyone..I'm not to proud to admit that, but its probably true :frown: When I changed the oil at 11k..IT WAS DARK, PURE BLACK IMO it was FAR TOO LONG, I also run a stupid "oiled" INJEN CAI air filter most of the time..it doesn't filter anywhere near as well as a stock filter does so probably attributed to the extremely dirty oil..

I'm totally in favor and recommend anyone to change the oil between 3k and 5k especially if you utilize a aftermarket "performance":thumbdown: filter. IMO there good for nothing but making a intake noise..unless you have a forced induction system or a modified cam intake set up.
I have 160,000 very hard miles and she's still running pretty good..no complaint. I do see metal particles in my oil changes. I might post another thread on this..I've been told its perfectly normal under any situation..so im on the fence over it.

[junorico24]

I use to do it every 10 k. I do it 5.5 to 6.5 k now.:thumbsup:
I am using Castrol high mileage oil for cars with 100 000 km and more.I change the oil filter and air filter every 6 months. Gearbox oil every 40k again using Castrol product called Syntrax with G70 gear box treatment additive.

[frambach]

I also run a stupid "oiled" INJEN CAI air filter most of the time..it doesn't filter anywhere near as well as a stock filter does so probably attributed to the extremely dirty oil..

I'm totally in favor and recommend anyone to change the oil between 3k and 5k especially if you utilize a aftermarket "performance":thumbdown: filter. IMO there good for nothing but making a intake noise..unless you have a forced induction system or a modified cam intake set up.


Just so you know, it's not just 'your opinion'. Those filters do a very poor job of filtration. Cummins (diesel engine manufacturer) has come out with a TSB against them. Their capacity is lower than a stock cellulose and their efficiency is lower too. I'd recommend an AMSOIL dry filter (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/air/amsoil-ea-air-filters/?code=EAA08-EA?zo=5007480) to replace your oiled filter. We use the same filtration technology that our U.S. Government uses on the M1 Abram tanks. If you tell me what your filter dims are, I can look up an AMSOIL 'universal' filter to replace it with & give you a price.

I do see metal particles in my oil changes. I might post another thread on this..I've been told its perfectly normal under any situation..so im on the fence over it.

I've never seen metal in my Yaris oil! I'd start a used oil analysis regimen on that car post haste before you get in position where the engine fails.

[IllusionX]

I've never seen metal in my Yaris oil! I'd start a used oil analysis regimen on that car post haste before you get in position where the engine fails.

I have a Gold Plug http://www.goldplug.com/ in place, and there are metal (fine) metal particles stuck on it every time i change oil. Shouldn't be an issue, but you ARE looking at metal friction against metal.. there will always be some kind of metal particles falling off no matter what oil you use.

[frambach]

A magnetic plug will only attract and retain ferrous metals. I have a Fumoto oil drain valve in place of my drain plug or I'd consider getting one. I've looked at the FilterMAG (http://www.shopfiltermag.com/) products before and have considered being a dealer for them.

My last UOA had the highest ppm content of iron I've ever had and it was at 20ppm. That's with 12,538 on the oil with no top-offs and no filter change. I can assure you there was not enough metal to see with the naked eye.

xb visitor said "I do see metal particles in my oil changes." He/she did not say whether or not they have a mag plug. Without a magnetic plug, that is disturbing information. If he/she is utilizing a mag plug, not so much.