06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[06YarisRS]

Hey, thanks Adam. Not sure what it all means. Could it possibly mean that if I reconnected the blue wire, that my troubles would disappear? Probably wishful thinking. Haha

[atomic_hoji]

lol - yes, I think you need to re-connect your blue wire; at least from what I see on the wiring diagram and that connector picture. Tom or Trevor may have a different reason as to why one of the wires on the autobox is grounded though - the autobox isn't my forte.. MT has a 2-pin connector for reverse indication. lol :wink:

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

[QUOTE=06YarisRS;818414]
https://i.imgur.com/VZceodu.jpg

Ok, I see what happened here, When I did my swap I thought I was clear that I used all COROLLA parts. So my corolla plug has no pin 10, just the 9 that I have been telling everyone.

Now because you have an xD harness the wires are different there at C29, You need to reconnect the blue wire.

Sorry for the confusion, I have no idea whats up with Brushhforhires swap and if he ever figured out this before the crash.

[06YarisRS]

Hi Adam and Tom.

I reconnected the blue wire to the harness and unfortunately I still have the P2770 code appearing.

[06YarisRS]

[QUOTE=06YarisRS;818414]
https://i.imgur.com/VZceodu.jpg

Ok, I see what happened here, When I did my swap I thought I was clear that I used all COROLLA parts. So my corolla plug has no pin 10, just the 9 that I have been telling everyone.

Now because you have an xD harness the wires are different there at C29, You need to reconnect the blue wire.

Sorry for the confusion, I have no idea whats up with Brushhforhires swap and if he ever figured out this before the crash.

Thanks Tom. You were definitely clear about using Corolla only parts. It's my misinterpretation or failure to follow directions I suspect. I'm not giving up hope and really appreciate all the help, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have undertaken this project in the first place. I'm willing to do whatever it takes to fix this, but it may be too far beyond my skill level.

[atomic_hoji]

Hi Adam and Tom.
I reconnected the blue wire to the harness and unfortunately I still have the P2770 code appearing.

May sound silly, but did you remember to clear all the codes? My recollection is that some OBD2 codes will stick the MIL/CEL on even if the condition no longer exists..

And is this the only code you're getting now?

-- Adam

[CrankyOldMan]

I'm not giving up hope and really appreciate all the help, but I am beginning to wonder if I should have undertaken this project in the first place. I'm willing to do whatever it takes to fix this, but it may be too far beyond my skill level.

No way man, you've got this! You've already done all the hard work, why stop now? If you've still got access to the EWDs, go over them again and double check what wires go where.

[ArmstrongRacing]

If clearing the codes does nothing, ground the brown wire next to the blue one you just fixed. That’s pin 9

[06YarisRS]

May sound silly, but did you remember to clear all the codes? My recollection is that some OBD2 codes will stick the MIL/CEL on even if the condition no longer exists..

And is this the only code you're getting now?

-- Adam

Hey Adam. Yes, it's the only code I'm getting now. I was also getting a P0977 (shift solenoid "B" control circuit high), but that seems to have gone away by itself but that happened before re-connecting the blue wire. I have cleared the code with Torque Pro and it turns the MIL off, but it comes back on basically as soon as I turn the ingition on. I'm wondering if the speed sensor harness I made is having anything to do with this. I'm sure my wiring was right and the pins all went in nicely. Also, the CA2 connector is properly seated.

The MAf codes are all gone, but I've only run the car for 5 - 8 minutes at a time. My ac compressor does not sound good and no one had any PAG oil around here.

I thought that maybe the other DTCs were being set by low voltage due to my no-charge situation (which remains btw) but I've connected it to my van's battery. My multi meter shows 13.8 volts with the battery jumpered, but as soon as I take off the battery cable, it drops to 10ish volts and then keeps dropping.

[06YarisRS]

If clearing the codes does nothing, ground the brown wire next to the blue one you just fixed. That’s pin 9

I will definitely try that Tom. Thank you.

[06YarisRS]

No way man, you've got this! You've already done all the hard work, why stop now? If you've still got access to the EWDs, go over them again and double check what wires go where.

Haha, thanks Sam! I think I'm just a little tired now and a little disheartened. I've had quite a few consecutive late nights working on this project. I guess I'm wondering if some combination of parts/factors will make this project not possible. If I know that it definitely can be done (aka, it's possible electrically/mechanically and they there are no limitiations - other than my own, LOL - that make it impossible), then I'd feel better. I just don't know enough to know this for sure. It will probably turn out to be something that I missed and I'll slap myself for being stupid or careless. LOL. I do very much appreciate the encouragement.

[tmontague]

I rechecked Brishforhire's thread and your grounded wire is the exact same as his. Not sure about why the ewd's show it should be connected.

Have you checked if your ground is good? That's the first thing to do and then check your wiring on your ground is good


I'm not great with ewd's and I can't help much for the a/t swap other then what is in other threads

[atomic_hoji]

Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time... :rolleyes:

So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole... :biggrin:

I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car..

Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem.

A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol

Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ?

Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start. :thumbup:

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

I rechecked Brishforhire's thread and your grounded wire is the exact same as his. Not sure about why the ewd's show it should be connected.

Brushforhire's wiring was obviously wrong, not sure why he never disclosed that. He was the first 2zr + auto swap to use the xD auto harness. I've had Pin 9 posted in all of my write-ups and I don't understand why he did Pin 10 and never mentioned an issue.

I guess we will find out

[06YarisRS]

You guys are amazing! I looked at the wiring diagrams again and SLU - (pin 9), as mentioned by Tom will get grounded tomorrow. P2770 refers to "An open in the shift solenoid valve SL circuit is detected". To me pin 9 is SLU - (or ground), so this makes sense that if not grounded, there would be an open circuit, thus setting the code. Feel free to tell me I'm full of it, LOL! I will report back tomorrow as to how this works. I am optimistic about this. I do have one question, though. Are these circuits protected, in other words, will damage be prevented by the ecu or does one run a risk of frying/damaging something by changing wires around?

[ArmstrongRacing]

... will damage be prevented by the ecu or does one run a risk of frying/damaging something by changing wires around?

No, grounding the plug wires wont cause damage. However, if you were to ground the wire in the harness from the ECM on the positive side of the solenoid something bad may happen. That would be a direct short to ground!

[tmontague]

Brushforhire's wiring was obviously wrong, not sure why he never disclosed that. He was the first 2zr + auto swap to use the xD auto harness. I've had Pin 9 posted in all of my write-ups and I don't understand why he did Pin 10 and never mentioned an issue.

I guess we will find out

Well then, that makes more sense. I assumed his thread was all correct and never had time to look through any others

[06YarisRS]

Down to 1 OBD code is good progress! I've had mine on the road for months and there's at least 1 or 2 at any given time... :rolleyes:

So I had a look in my 2018 Yaris manual, but the P2770 DTC (code) isn't actually listed - I either didn't download it, which is possible, or it isn't in this service manual.. The manual you had/have access to may have something in it though? Check in the auto transmission section of the manual(s) under the troubleshooting or control sections, maybe it will give you some more information. Maybe Tom knows more as he's more familiar with the automatics, but I think the SLU solenoid might be for torque converter lock-up? In which case, given the code you're getting, I think you're chasing the right rabbit hole... :biggrin:

I did have a peek through the manual though and it looks like on the transmission itself there is a sub-harness from the connector that runs to the shift solenoids and components on the transmission. Might be worth having a check of those connectors that the wires are good - didn't get snagged on anything moving the 1NZ out / 2ZR in, connectors are clean and seated well. It's easy to do quick - ok, maybe not 'easy' since it's in the car..

Another idea would be to disconnect the battery, disconnect the engine harness connector at the ECM and the connector C29 at the automatic transmission and do a continuity / resistance check. So, basically get a multi-meter and stick a probe in the ECM pin and the other in the corresponding C29 pin and do a. a continuity check (a connection, multi-meter usually beeps) and b. a resistance measurement to see if you have high resistance in the wire - if you do, there might be a bad solder/connection. Work your way through all 9 wires and confirm your electrical connection is solid. It's a bit tedious, but maybe worth a look if the other ideas don't solve your problem.

A/C compressor hopefully survives, but sounds like it might need oil if you hadn't added any. A Ideal Supply / NAPA or similar should be able to order a small container of PAG for you. I recall it not being cheap given the tiny size of the container.. lol

Is it your Yaris' battery that's low? I might be mis-understanding, but if you jumper it from the van and it seems to charge with a good voltage, but you remove the good battery out of the loop and it drops, that seems like the Yaris' battery is hooped.. ?

Keep at it buddy, you're almost there... that first drive out you'll be cautious, listen for problems, nervous... then you'll get comfortable and open it up - and that's when the smiles start. :thumbup:

-- Adam

Thanks Adam. This sub harness you mention intrigues me. Here is a pic of the top trans plug. It seems to have mositure and dirt in it. Could this be causing a problem or are these pins completely isolated form eachother?

https://i.imgur.com/S7DZslD.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

^ could probably use a quick blast with some electrical cleaner, but the terminals themselves look decent from the picture; nothing corroded or mangled. Those terminals are pretty separate when the connector is pushed together, I wouldn't imagine it's causing a problem, but easy enough to give it a quick clean-up.

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

^ could probably use a quick blast with some electrical cleaner, but the terminals themselves look decent from the picture; nothing corroded or mangled. Those terminals are pretty separate when the connector is pushed together, I wouldn't imagine it's causing a problem, but easy enough to give it a quick clean-up.

-- Adam

Well that's good Adam. Thanks! I took my alternator in and had it tested. It passed with flying colors. I was actually hoping it would fail so I could just buy another, bolt it on be good to go. Haha. So it looks like I have another electrical problem to try to fix. A bit back in thread, Tom gave me some guidance that I will follow. I'll bolt the alternator back on, and try Tom's suggestion. I'll also ground the pin 9 wire and check to see if the P2770 goes away. If neither works, I think I may have to step away from this for a few days. The progress has been good so far - I'm really glad it started, lol - but I could use another 'win' soon. I need to convince myself that all obstacles are able to be overcome.

Here is the alternator print out

https://i.imgur.com/pyBNVFA.jpg

]

[06YarisRS]

I reconnected the blue wire from pin #10 and grounded the brown wire from pin#9. I cleared the codes. As soon as I started the car, the P2770 returned. My connections are solid. I wondered if my battery was bad, so I put my van battery in and there was no difference.

Here is a pic that contains a snippet from the Yaris EWD I had from before and The scion xD diagram. Might this be helpful?

https://i.imgur.com/Ob3Ji8Z.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

I am lost here, I don’t understand how you are still having an issue.

Is the small 2 pin connector on top of the transmission plugged in?

You may need to check the wires to the AT plug with an Ohmmeter. Worst case scenario I can send you my harness that I know worked with no codes the whole time

[tmontague]

If all you connections are good then possibkena short in the harness. Like Tom said you can check for continuity down all the wire to make sure they are good

[06YarisRS]

I am lost here, I don’t understand how you are still having an issue.

Is the small 2 pin connector on top of the transmission plugged in?

You may need to check the wires to the AT plug with an Ohmmeter. Worst case scenario I can send you my harness that I know worked with no codes the whole time

Thanks Tom! Yes, the 2 pin plug is plugged in. Yeah, I'm beginning to wonder if my harness is damaged. I think checking it with a multimeter is the approach now. So, I should stay with grounding the brown wire from pin 9? When you say to "check the wires to the AT plug", should I check this from the main plug at the ECU all the way to the trans plug or from CA2 in the underhood fusebox to teh trans plug? I apologize and I know that my limited understanding of electronics is contributing to this.

This link provides what appears to a good path to take:

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2770

Do you think that it is possible that the charging issue and my torque converter problem are related in any way?

I asked my helper yesterday if he noticed anything getting caught as we were pulling the 1NZ and putting the 2ZR in as he was on the transmission side and I was guiding the engines on the pulley side. He said that nothing got caught.

Finally, if my electrical tests don't show anything abnormal, would having Toyota use their special scan tool uncover the problem. I'd rather fix this at home but would have Toyota look at it if you think that they could find out what I've done wrong.


Thanks very much.

[06YarisRS]

If all you connections are good then possibkena short in the harness. Like Tom said you can check for continuity down all the wire to make sure they are good

Thanks Trevor! It is indeed looking like this is the next approach to take. I'm wondering if one of these issues - the charging or the torque converter should be dealt with first.

[tmontague]

Almost always fix a charging system first. In modern vehicles low voltage can and will cause all sorts of weird things to happen.

[ArmstrongRacing]

https://i.imgur.com/Ob3Ji8Z.jpg

You will need to disconnect the large ECM plug and the AT plugand check resistance from end to end. Between:

S1: (B21)#79 - #5(C29)
S2, SLU, ST, SLT
Etc...

[06YarisRS]

Almost always fix a charging system first. In modern vehicles low voltage can and will cause all sorts of weird things to happen.

I think I will try to fix the charging issue first. Thanks Trevor.

[06YarisRS]

You will need to disconnect the large ECM plug and the AT plugand check resistance from end to end. Between:

S1: (B21)#79 - #5(C29)
S2, SLU, ST, SLT
Etc...

Thanks Tom. I will commence that testing shortly. I just need to see if the probes of my multimeter will reach, and make good contact with, the pins. I had meant to bring a paper clip from the school, but forgot.

I just have a quick question. You said that pins 1 and 2 of the alternator connector have to see battery voltage in order to get the alternator to charge, correct?

https://i.imgur.com/0Gd2WZY.jpg

Right now my battery is at around 10 volts. As long as those pins see that voltage am I safe to assume that those wires are ok? I plan to put my battery on the charger tonight.

EDIT: Here are my voltage readings.

Battery Posts 10.2 V
With the ignition OFF:
Pin 1 10.2V
Pin 2 1.02V
Pin 3 0.66V
Pin 4 0.66V

With Ignition ON:
Pin 1 9.7V
Pin 2 9.7V
Pin 3 6.07V
Pin 4 8.33V

From alternator + post to battery -, I get 0 Volts

So, although it looks like I have continuity in all wires, and my alternator tested good, it will not start charging.

Oh, and I was remiss in not thanking you for the 'worst case' possible offer of the harness, but I would like to try fixing my issues. I would also have a hard time accepting that as I've already imposed upon you guys a lot.



Thanks!

[atomic_hoji]

+1 on the charging problem as unreliable electrical source can cause all sorts of goofy stuff. Glad your alternator isn't hooped at least! :thumbsup: Have you checked the charge cable connection at the alternator and the battery terminals? Checked the battery terminal connectors are good and tight? Good, clean connections everywhere from alt to battery, starter to battery, at battery to JB, etc.. and grounds! Poor connection from battery to body or from harness to engine block could cause a headache - granted, in saying that I would have imagined you'd have way more weird problems than just the 1 OBD code for the transmission solenoid.. 10V seems low to me, I would definitely throw it on a charger and see if it helps - can't hurt at least. lol

To check continuity and resistance I found that, as you mentioned, if you gently stick a sewing pin into the ECM terminal and carefully pull down on it while holding the multimeter probe on the sewing pin it pushes the sewing pin against the inside of the terminal and works a treat for measuring.

I admit, I'm a little confused why there's a need to ground any of the 10-pin connectors when they all run back to the ECM for control; in this case it's the SLU- signal, which is probably a ground provided by the ECM anyway... Quick Q, in case I missed it: are all 10-pins on your connector used? By the wiring diagram pin 7 should be blank - which seems to jive based on your picture of the male side connector that has no pin installed. If there's a wire at pin 7, is this connected to ground as a shielding / connector ground maybe?

Seems like if you're running the xD automatic ECM with an xD harness all the ECM side pins will jive. Checking the EWDs, all of those pins match the expected pins on the Yaris' 10-pin automatic transmission connector, so in terms of correct wire to correct function I think you're alright. Just need to resolve this weird circuit issue.

Keep us posted how you make out. You're almost there man! :thumbup:
-- Adam

[tmontague]

Hiw reliable is the alternator test? I dont encourage throwing parts at the wall and seeing what sticks but 10v I silly low and could be a voltage regulator.

My alternator recently went and it would charge but only at 11v under load and 12.6 at idle. Over 3 weeks the car would lose more and more power until it turned over slow and eventually failed to start.

I got a free warranty battery as CT put it on their tester and said it was a bad battery. Same issue with second one until i tested the alt and found that as the source of the problen

[06YarisRS]

Adam and Trevor. I'm responding to both of your posts here. First off, thanks for sticking with me as I muddle my way through this! I'm not sure if I should be happy about what I'm about to post, but, I will say that it does eliminate one potential issue.

First, the 10 volts on my battery is a result of sitting for a long time, plus running the car without charge. My alternator produced in a very heathy 14.XX volts and a peak of 15V on the bench test. I posted the printout a few posts back.

I have conducted the continuity tests from C19 - C29 using a straight pin for C19 and the other multimeter lead for C29. I had no problems establishing immediate connections and the results are... continuity in all wires! I tested each not twice, but 3 times. I said above that I'm not sure if I should be happy about this because it really makes me constantly wonder if there is some innate incompatibility in my car (Maybe a Canadian Yaris hatchback has different wiring than the other cars that got swapped). That said, I am feeling a little better. I enjoyed this testing, but had hoped I'd find a wire without continuity, then I coud start looking for the break in the harness.

I am really trying hard to get my head around the wiring diagrams and I have taken out another 2 day TIS membership.

I had hoped that issues would be resolved when I put my van battery (known good) in, but that made no diffrence.

Anyway, not really sure what to do next. But, like I said, I'm at least feeling a bit better today about the whole thing.

EDIT: I wanted to add that the xD harness has one wire coming off the negative battery terminal, where as teh Yaris had two, one of which bolted to the strut tower. May terminals are very clean and tight.

Also, Adam, pin 7 is vacant in both the male and female connectors of C29.

WAIT... I just thought of something... Back in a bit!

https://i.imgur.com/RfflWWS.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Here are my voltage readings.

Battery Posts 10.2 V
With the ignition OFF:
Pin 1 10.2V
Pin 2 1.02V
Pin 3 0.66V
Pin 4 0.66V

With Ignition ON:
Pin 1 9.7V
Pin 2 9.7V
Pin 3 6.07V
Pin 4 8.33V

From alternator + post to battery -, I get 0 Volts

So, although it looks like I have continuity in all wires, and my alternator tested good, it will not start charging.

Oh, and I was remiss in not thanking you for the 'worst case' possible offer of the harness, but I would like to try fixing my issues. I would also have a hard time accepting that as I've already imposed upon you guys a lot.

The voltage at the alternator plug are perfect. However, you should always have battery voltage on the alternator positive post.

CHECK THE FUSES IN THE POSITIVE BATTERY POST

No worries about my harness, I only have 1 race left this year. Plus I need to start on my custom Mil-spec harness and stop procrastinating haha

[atomic_hoji]

I went to reply, then went to check the alternator diagram to make sure I was right (then put the little one to bed), and Tom nailed it... lol

Fuse / Fusible Link. I recalled that you said you'd tried the van battery, so that ruled out the battery - though it's a good idea to charge it. But like Tom said, you should always have battery voltage on the alternator post and pin 1 of the 4-pin alternator connector - with no voltage on the post the ALT fusible link is probably blown. A continuity check would confirm that as well.

edit: re - grounding points, I recall a cable from the negative to the body (up around the tower as you mentioned), but also down to the transmission on my Yaris. If you don't have a cable to the transmission or the block then the alternator wouldn't be grounded via the block and that could also cause you a problem... I think the age old "check the fuse" as Tom suggested will be the age old "d'oh" moment.. :biggrin:

-- Adam

[tmontague]

Hold the phone batman! I'm about 99% sure that the xd harness I have contains 2 large gauge ground wires from the negative battery terminal. One that connects to the body and one that connects to the trans case.

Humor me and run your pin 9 to a known ground on the chassis like a body panel. Or hell ever quicker have you ever actually tested your trans case is grounded?

I dont remember reading you stating you checked your trans ground was actually grounded.

[06YarisRS]

Gents! Here is a pic of what I think is the fusible link. This came from the Yaris and I just bolted the positive terminal to it. My assumption was that I should use the battery connector that was left over from the Yaris. Maybe I shouldn't have. I tested each fuse by placing the leads on each side of each fuse. I have continuity.

https://i.imgur.com/EyvC6LT.jpg

Here is a pic of the current terminals. When I posted earlier that I would be back, it was to go out and double up the negative terminals as the Yaris negative terminal connected to the strut tower and the transmission case. Trevor, you mentioned that you had another ground. My harness only appears to have the negative battery terminal. I'm thinking now I have a grounding (or lack thereof) issue. ANd I will perform the test - grounding wire 9 to a known good ground.


https://i.imgur.com/eIMvZZy.jpg



EDIT: Hang on... Is the fusible link on the body harness? I just had a look at my "Locations A&B" schematic and it refers to connector A28 and A29.

https://i.imgur.com/5GKHWn6.jpg

[tmontague]

Yes, using the fusible link plus battery terminal clamp from the yaris is correct and currently how mine is set up.

Look at the picture you just posted and notice how your yaris negative tab has 2 ground wires coming from it. Then look at your xd negative tab and notice that there is only one wire running from it.

Now go outside and test if your transmission case is grounded. This is something that you still have yet to report in but was mentioned to you pages ago. This will answer the question of what seems to be your issue to all of your problems.

In case you aren't sure how to do it just attach your positive probe from your multimeter to the battery positive and the negative probe to your transmission case and read the voltage. If you have no voltage then you have no ground. Or read resistance and you should have little to no resistance.

Then report back.

Typically when the fusible link is blown you have a hell of a lot if issues opp up and the dash can light up like a Christmas tree

[ArmstrongRacing]

https://i.imgur.com/EyvC6LT.jpg

Looks good here


https://i.imgur.com/eIMvZZy.jpg

Cable #1 goes to the starter positive terminal.
Cable #2 goes to the alternator positive post, should be connected to the other attachment point on the front of this fuse block.
The left-over connection #3 in the back is your main ground point to the battery negative post, see how its grounded to the strut tower?

[tmontague]

I looked for a pic of my xd harness but cannot find one.

I'm pretty sure you have to use your yaris battery ground tab with the 2 wires from it (one to chassis and one to trans case)

The other ground tab from the xd harness I couldn't remember but Tom is likely correct that it goes to the fuse block, I just never remembered that part

[atomic_hoji]

Well, good it's not a blown fuse/fusible link - that could indicate other problems either current or on the prior xD that hopefully wouldn't have damaged the wiring harness.

Those 2 connectors from the Yaris that you have labelled look like the 2 grounds - body and transmission that I recall. What I don't recall is any heavy gauge cable on an engine harness going to the negative terminal on the battery. Have you run that black cable (2) back to it's source... ?

For giggles, with everything sitting where it is now (battery out), check for continuity between the alternator terminal and that cable (2) - I'm wondering if you've been hooking the alternator up to the negative battery terminal instead of the side of the positive terminal block - which in the pictures you show is missing a connector.. which a quick look at my Yaris I think the red cable to the starter should be on the front of the block and the alternator - which has a black cable with a blue stripe on mine - should be to the backside of the positive terminal block.

edit: apparently while I ran to the garage the other guys already nailed it. :laugh:

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

You guys freakin rock! And I feel like an idiot!

14.6 Volts!!!! I will however put the battery on charge rather than expect the alternator to do that job.

I am going to sleep well tonight! Tomorrow I will do up the wiring on the trans plug. I still have the P2770 BUT I have neither wire grounded. Just so I'm clear, I should still ground brown wire#9, correct?

Soon it will be... :burnrubber: except auto!

[tmontague]

EDIT* very sorry for the huge images, still learning how to use imgur, but at least these pics won't ghost in a couple weeks

Alright, in just spent some time looking st my old yaris harness and took a look in my engine bay and I'm pretty sure I know what your problem is.

The xd harness does not come with any large ground terminals that you hook up to your negative post on your battery. You keep your yaris ground cable for that

https://i.imgur.com/k7L67w6.jpg

The xd harness comes with 2 large black wires with terminals and one will have red electrical tape on it and the other will not. These are both power cables that go to your positive terminal on the battery. The one with red tape is the direct line to the starter. They both attach to the two spots on the fusible link junction that you keep from your yaris.

https://i.imgur.com/GLGfM89.jpg

I think your are either missing one of these positive cable ends or are attaching one to your negative side on the battery and/or not.using your yaris ground cables. Either way you need to test your trans case for ground.

[tmontague]

I'd double check your ground on the trans. Use a multimeter or test light and make sure it is a good ground. If that's good then check the wiring.


You guys freakin rock! And I feel like an idiot!

14.6 Volts!!!! I will however put the battery on charge rather than expect the alternator to do that job.

I am going to sleep well tonight! Tomorrow I will do up the wiring on the trans plug. I still have the P2770 BUT I have neither wire grounded. Just so I'm clear, I should still ground brown wire#9, correct?

Soon it will be... :burnrubber: except auto!

If you feel like an idiot it should only be due to not checking one of the simplest and earliest things mentioned to you when you first started the car - it would have saved yourself a lot of frustration and some of us a fair amount of time. You had to multimeter out and went to the trouble of testing wires in the harness all while neglecting to take the 10 seconds to check that the trans was grounded. Don't let that lesson go unlearned, it will help you when your wrench on cars in the future

Most of us were only able to do this swap because of the help of others, and I'm glad we were all able to help you out. Your trans code should clear once you connect and ground the proper wires. Definitely ground pin 9 that Tom mentioned, it is correct as per the ewd. Enjoy a weekend of hooning around a 2zr swapped Yaris!

[06YarisRS]

It worked Trevor! I now have a grounded trans case and max charging! I still have the P2770 but I will fix that tomorrow, hopefully.

[06YarisRS]

If you feel like an idiot it should only be due to not checking one of the simplest and earliest things mentioned to you when you first started the car - it would have saved yourself a lot of frustration and some of us a fair amount of time. You had to multimeter out and went to the trouble of testing wires in the harness all while neglecting to take the 10 seconds to check that the trans was grounded. Don't let that lesson go unlearned, it will help you when your wrench on cars in the future

Most of us were only able to do this swap because of the help of others, and I'm glad we were all able to help you out. Your trans code should clear once you connect and ground the proper wires. Definitely ground pin 9 that Tom mentioned, it is correct as per the ewd. Enjoy a weekend of hooning around a 2zr swapped Yaris!

Fair enough. I became hyper focused on extraneous aspects of the swap. Recall I said that I overthink things! LOL! EDIT: I did find your reference to checking the ground - post 244!

I do really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Clearly, it wouldn't have happened without your help. I still have a decent list of things to do, including the A/C and exhaust. It's sounding like I'm going to have to replace my A/C compressor as I put the stethoscope on it and it's quite noisy - bearing I suspect.

[06YarisRS]

Cable #1 goes to the starter positive terminal.
Cable #2 goes to the alternator positive post, should be connected to the other attachment point on the front of this fuse block.
The left-over connection #3 in the back is your main ground point to the battery negative post, see how its grounded to the strut tower?

THANK YOU!!!

[06YarisRS]

Well, good it's not a blown fuse/fusible link - that could indicate other problems either current or on the prior xD that hopefully wouldn't have damaged the wiring harness.

Those 2 connectors from the Yaris that you have labelled look like the 2 grounds - body and transmission that I recall. What I don't recall is any heavy gauge cable on an engine harness going to the negative terminal on the battery. Have you run that black cable (2) back to it's source... ?

For giggles, with everything sitting where it is now (battery out), check for continuity between the alternator terminal and that cable (2) - I'm wondering if you've been hooking the alternator up to the negative battery terminal instead of the side of the positive terminal block - which in the pictures you show is missing a connector.. which a quick look at my Yaris I think the red cable to the starter should be on the front of the block and the alternator - which has a black cable with a blue stripe on mine - should be to the backside of the positive terminal block.

edit: apparently while I ran to the garage the other guys already nailed it. :laugh:

-- Adam

Thanks very much, Adam!!!

[06YarisRS]

EDIT* very sorry for the huge images, still learning how to use imgur, but at least these pics won't ghost in a couple weeks

Alright, in just spent some time looking st my old yaris harness and took a look in my engine bay and I'm pretty sure I know what your problem is.

The xd harness does not come with any large ground terminals that you hook up to your negative post on your battery. You keep your yaris ground cable for that



The xd harness comes with 2 large black wires with terminals and one will have red electrical tape on it and the other will not. These are both power cables that go to your positive terminal on the battery. The one with red tape is the direct line to the starter. They both attach to the two spots on the fusible link junction that you keep from your yaris.



I think your are either missing one of these positive cable ends or are attaching one to your negative side on the battery and/or not.using your yaris ground cables. Either way you need to test your trans case for ground.

If you open your pics in Paint, Trevor, you can resize them before uploading them to imgur. 1024 x 768 or 800 x 600 are good resolutions for the forum. Thanks for the pics.

[06YarisRS]

No codes after 10 minutes of running!!!

Remaining jobs:

- A/C compressor, o-ring replacement and recharge
- Axle back exhaust
- solder wiring connections
- secure coolant filler neck with bolts

[atomic_hoji]

...
Most of us were only able to do this swap because of the help of others, and I'm glad we were all able to help you out. ... Enjoy a weekend of hooning around a 2zr swapped Yaris!

^ This!

Glad you got it worked out man! :thumbup: As Trevor noted, find a quiet place and enjoy some honkin' on it; she goes, you smile - it's just the way it is. :biggrin:

If that's the worst idiot moment you have, you're probably doing ok. lol Might feel silly, but nobody got hurt and nothing blew up; pride heals.. although sometime it takes a while to live a good 'whoops' down.

Keep us posted how you make out with the rest of your list, and congrats on the hard work and perseverance!

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Haha, thanks Adam. Given the support/time investment that you guys generously provided me, I think a little smack down is a minor price to pay. Lol. Oh yeah, and a person has to have pride in the first place to really take offense. :laugh:

Got hockey practice today, a few other family commitments, and a few odds and ends to tie up on the car, so first drive looks like tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help, Adam. It has been an experience.

[tmontague]

I plan on making a new 2zr swap thread with just the specific info regarding electrical hook up and what to do with the xd vs yaris harness and grounds.

I will keep it just to those specifics and avoid the stuff about how to pull an engine as that is on all the other swap threads.

This was probably the one part I wasnt sure about as it isn't in one section of the swap threads and until I had my harness to look at it was a big question mark for me

[ArmstrongRacing]

No codes after 10 minutes of running!!!

Sweet baby Jesus.....we finally got it.

Trevor I think you have a good idea regarding the electrical, clear pictures and instructions on that is definitely needed

[06YarisRS]

Sweet baby Jesus.....we finally got it.

Trevor I think you have a good idea regarding the electrical, clear pictures and instructions on that is definitely needed

Yes! It is running strong, free of MILS. The idea to create an electrical thread is a great one. I know that it will help others in the future. I have hundreds of pictures, so, Trevor, if you need any in particular, I'd be happy to provide any needed. It's the least I could do to contribute.

[ArmstrongRacing]

We also need a moderator to remove the wrong wiring picture in brushforhires thread...

I was caught sleeping by that one

[06YarisRS]

Apparently not out of the woods yet.

On my latest start up, I ran the car for about 1/2 an hour to check my plumbing for leaks. Everything was good. I went back out and started the car and my P2770 is back. I cleared the codes and it returns with each startup. The car has started and run at least 3-4 times without displaying any codes. I am going to recheck all of my connections, but I soldered and heat shrinked all of them with pin 9 grounded. I have full charging and my transmission is grounded - 12.6V at terminals and 12.6V from trans case to positive. This is very strange as I've had several startups and no codes. It must be a bad connection. I'll sand down the contact point on the transmission case where the ground attaches. Will report back after I recheck everything.

Tests completed:

1) have continuity on the blue wire as I repaired it (ECM Pin 78 to C29 pin 10), so my blue wire is good.

2) have continuity from ring terminal on brown wire to female pin 9 in connector C29, so my ground is good. I removed the ring terminal from the block for this test.

3) sanded and tested the ground on the trans case 12.6v tested at the battery and 12.6v using positive battery post and ground.

Observations: If I disconnect the battery terminal for a few minutes, then come back and start the car, it does not light up the MIL, but Torque registers a pending code of P2770. On the second start, the MIL comes on and Torque shows a current fault P2770.

https://i.imgur.com/cOJ1VeV.jpg

Looking at the diagram for the xD, is it possible that brushforhire was right and it is the blue wire that needs grounding? I didn't have trans ground when I tried the blue wire. Pin 10 in the pic below looks like to goes to ground but I'm still in the learning phase about wiring diagrams. EDIT: Blue wire grounded gives the same code.

https://i.imgur.com/oezYCxb.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

This is confusing because My harness is the same as yours.

http://www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/uploads/7/4/0/2/74028615/img-1113_orig.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Tom. Defintely the same configuration, but different wires. Not sure if they serve the same functions as I haven't looked at the Corolla diagrams much.

Down the rabbit hole...

If I actually got a 2008 xD ECU, then it appears - in its stock form- to be incompatible with both my harness and transmission. For one thing the 2008 ECU only appears to feed 8 wires to the connector. And, the SLT+ and SLT - pins are not the same between my Yaris and the xD harness.

From what I'm seeing - from my limited understanding - I need a different ECU, or figure out if the one I have will work and I need to swap some pins in the harness at the ECU. I still have to look at my ECU overall to be sure that those spots even have pins and if they are assigned to something else.

I will try to refrain from asking a lot of questions as I've done an awful lot of that over the past couple months. But, feel free to chime in if you are so inclined.

Once this is all over, I'll spend some time cleaning up my thread.

https://i.imgur.com/WbcTW59.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Wow. I apologize. I wasn’t aware they changed the pins in 2011. So it looks like you need to do the same pin swap I had to at the ECM. Here is the link to how I did it:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56031&page=5

So it looks like at some point they started using corolla parts on the xD, right before it was discontinued. Great work pulling up the info!

[ArmstrongRacing]

If you want to know how all of these ECTS wires work and why ill give a brief explanation. Each one of the inputs corresponds to a solenoid, these solenoids move when activated by the ECM and allow line pressure(about 800psi) to activate their wet clutches. The holding and releasing of these clutches manipulate how the planetary gears "simulate" gears.
http://www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/uploads/7/4/0/2/74028615/xd-at-detial_orig.png

Solenoids are just an electrical load device, they need a positive and negative circuit to operate. Just like a bulb, here we're moving wires around in the harness to make those solenoid circuits complete.

The Yaris ETCS has a different layout than ALL of the 1.8L cars due to its sub-compact nature. So we are never going to have a simple "plug-n-play" AT swap.

[06YarisRS]

Wow. I apologize. I wasn’t aware they changed the pins in 2011. So it looks like you need to do the same pin swap I had to at the ECM. Here is the link to how I did it:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56031&page=5

So it looks like at some point they started using corolla parts on the xD, right before it was discontinued. Great work pulling up the info!

Thanks Tom! I really appreciate the explanation of how it works. How could you possibly be aware of every change that is made by the manufacturer? I just looked at your link to your pin swap.

It looks like I do have to swap 57 to 58. The 2008 xD does not reference Pin 9 at all. I wonder if that is why it is grounded. There is no mention of SLU+ and SLU- on the 2008 pinout. I wonder if I need a different ECU.

Here is an update picture that includes a 2009 Corolla. As far the 2009 Corolla and 2011 xD ECTS is concerned, the pins are identical. I still can't get my head around the changes in the xD ECU between 2008 and 2011.

I am wondering if I should just go out and do as you say - switch 57 to 58, ground 9 and test it.

https://i.imgur.com/0G5039u.jpg

[atomic_hoji]

At work, can't play with diagrams, but given what you have there I can see your problem..

All pins trans side are consistent in function (same trans), BUT - pin 9 should be ground as Tom noted; the 2008 ECM doesn't supply an SLU-, it uses a local ground instead it looks like.

At the ECM the 2008 and 2011 xD differs on pins for SLU+/- and SL. Pin 57 on your 2011 harness needs to move to pin 58 to match the 2008 ECM; you've already cut the wire at pin 77 - just make sure it's not used elsewhere and is taped and isolated to avoid issues..

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Adam! I'm going to do the swaps as per Tom's and your directions. At hockey again today, so it will be a bit later. I'm going to practice removing ECU pins on my Yaris harness before tackling the xD harness in the car.

I will definitely post back with the results.

[06YarisRS]

I cannot for the life of me get these darn terminals out! I am practicing on my spare Corolla harness that came with my engine. I'm in the correct release hole, wiggling the safety pin around, the white slide lock is pushed out the required mm. Maybe my pin is too small. I've looked at a close up pic of the actual terminal.

https://i.imgur.com/xhvzRBh.jpg

[06YarisRS]

OK, finally managed to get a couple of pins out. How easily should they come out? It took a bit of force and made a little snap sound. The terminal appears undamaged.

[atomic_hoji]

My experience is that usually if the retaining bar/clip is fully disengaged and the pin has the internal clip out of the way a bit of a gentle tug will slide it out. Generally force and a snap sound means the plastic internal clip is busted. You can check by reinserting the terminal - it will feel sloppy if broken..

Good news is you're pulling out of one and into another pin slot, so if you break the internal clip you're probably OK, as long as you don't damage the metal terminal; and/or no other terminal needs to use that pin slot.

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

My experience is that usually if the retaining bar/clip is fully disengaged and the pin has the internal clip out of the way a bit of a gentle tug will slide it out. Generally force and a snap sound means the plastic internal clip is busted. You can check by reinserting the terminal - it will feel sloppy if broken..

Good news is you're pulling out of one and into another pin slot, so if you break the internal clip you're probably OK, as long as you don't damage the metal terminal; and/or no other terminal needs to use that pin slot.

-- Adam

Thanks Adam! Well, it is done, but I wouldn't call the pin removal easy. LOL! Of course, since I was doing it on the car, despite my best effort to save the wee rubber plug, it found a new home somewhere in the engine bay! I used a very fine tip on my tube of rtv sealant and put a small dab in the newly opened hole.

Standby for a pic!

[06YarisRS]

A picture is worth a thousand words...

https://i.imgur.com/SyQM2O8.jpg

Thank you gentlemen!!! It was the pin swap from 57 to 58 that cleared the codes. I had 5 - 6 starts, running 5 - 10 minutes each, a similar number of scans and not one MIL, except of course when I jumped in and fired it up without putting the intake tube back on. I got MAF error, but that disappeared after re-install and startup.

I redid conduit and tape around the trans connectors and ziptied everything. It looks great.

One other thing I'd like to do is slightly bend my transmission dipstick tube a touch toward to the driver's side. It's hard to get out past the upper rad hose.

Here is a pic with everything (in the engine bay, at least) put back together.

https://i.imgur.com/GVo8KhI.jpg

I am just so itching to take this bad boy for a run.

[atomic_hoji]

Virtual high five buddy! :thumbsup: glad you got it sorted out.

Now get out and go for a rip.. :biggrin:

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Virtual high five buddy! :thumbsup: glad you got it sorted out.

Now get out and go for a rip.. :biggrin:

-- Adam

Thanks Adam! Rip will likely happen tomorrow evening. :burnrubber: Gotta get all the panels and such back on.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Huge congrats to you sir for figuring this out!

[06YarisRS]

Huge congrats to you sir for figuring this out!

Thanks Tom, but it was you who figured it out originally! I was just riding on your coat tails. You guys have been simply awesome, from my initial inspiration to do the swap, down to the technical details. It's definitely a different thing to break new trail, than to copy what others have done. That said, I'm pretty happy I managed to pull it off. In my first post, I said it would be the most involved car-related project I've done, and that it was. Haha.

Now...time to start in on learning to beef up the 1NZ internals for forced induction....joking! :laugh:

[tmontague]

Congrats on the swap! Enjoy a much needed sleep lol

I'm surprised the 2011 harness is different then the 2008, guess we all learned something new on this swap. This is also one of the reasons I want to put out a thread going over these things.

[06YarisRS]

Congrats on the swap! Enjoy a much needed sleep lol

I'm surprised the 2011 harness is different then the 2008, guess we all learned something new on this swap. This is also one of the reasons I want to put out a thread going over these things.

Thanks. Yes, I too was surprised but ultimately thankful that it just required the pin swap. Maybe a quick review of wiring diagrams before posting could confirm any other differences in the years if there are any. I could do that as a contribution.

[06YarisRS]

The auto recycler where I got my used alternator, A/C compressor and engine cover is going to give me a different compressor. So, instead of slapping all the body parts back on tonight, I'm going to remove the compressor. Yet another delay to my first test drive. :cry:

[ern-diz]

Soon...sooooon...

[ArmstrongRacing]

One thing I will add based on my experience with the auto...

The ECM is adaptive, this means it will build fuel trim maps and shift patterns based on YOUR driving habits.

My wife would drive my car most of the time, so when I got in it the car felt sluggish due to her conservative driving. Once I was able to drive the car a while, the performance feeling returns.

[06YarisRS]

Soon...sooooon...

I know. This stupid compressor is messing with my fun. :rolleyes:

Looking forward to the following on my first drive:

1) smoother, more robust acceleration
2) no clunks, clanks, knocks
3) cruise control testing

[06YarisRS]

One thing I will add based on my experience with the auto...

The ECM is adaptive, this means it will build fuel trim maps and shift patterns based on YOUR driving habits.

My wife would drive my car most of the time, so when I got in it the car felt sluggish due to her conservative driving. Once I was able to drive the car a while, the performance feeling returns.

Ah Ha! Clearly then there is only one acceptable driving style. :laugh:

I'm more of an accelerate fast, but not burnout kind of guy...at least since getting older. So, say, routinely running up close to redline at WOT off a ramp onto the highway for example shouldn't adversely affect either my engine or trans, then?

[ArmstrongRacing]

I use WOT regularly as prescribed by my physician

[06YarisRS]

I use WOT regularly as prescribed by my physician

:thumbup: I'm guessing mine is going to say the same at my next appointment.

[06YarisRS]

5 minute job removing the a/c compressor. The little plastic panel next to the radiator pops out easily with the removal of two plastic pins and creates a good sized window to the compressor, water pump etc. Excellent design on behalf of Toyota. I still think that changing out a water pump with the 2ZR shoehorned in there will be a royal pain in the butt.

[ArmstrongRacing]

#7

[06YarisRS]

Initial observations:

Much more refined feel. The engine is much smoother and the valve train is almost inaudible.

The car pulls hard right up to about 6000 rpm before it shifts. Does it push you back into your seat? Not exactly, but it's definitely more potent than the 1.5.

It's much more 'torquey', if that's a word.

Shifting is precise.

My little aging Yaris (with 180000 kms) now has an engine with around 70000 kms!

Am I impressed? Damn straight!

Please excuse both the mess and the crappy pic quality.

https://i.imgur.com/UF2Je1F.jpg


I have a small exhaust clunk as the muffler, on some bumps and harder cornering is hitting the spring seat, but I think this is a quick fix when I get the exhaust work done. EDIT: The muffler is just turned a bit counterclockwise. My midpipe is in two sections (for shipping, I assume) so I just need to loosen the clamp, level the muffler and retighten. I expect that the new exhaust will allow the engine to breathe a little better. That oem muffler and piping is so tiny.

The 'new' used ac compressor is virtually silent.

As a major bonus, the cruise control is fully functional!

So, to Tom, Trevor, Adam and Sam (not in any particular order), a huge THANKS for helping me through this!!!

[ArmstrongRacing]

I’m glad you took on this swap, we all learned something new and you now has a legit RS(nice badge!)

I wish I have a plaque or badge....or anything to give you as a welcome to the 2zr fam.

But sadly I never had anything made

[06YarisRS]

I’m glad you took on this swap, we all learned something new and you now has a legit RS(nice badge!)

I wish I have a plaque or badge....or anything to give you as a welcome to the 2zr fam.

But sadly I never had anything made

Thanks Tom! It's so cool. So glad I did the swap. Now...I get to update my sig. :thumbsup:

[WeeYari]

you now has a legit RS(nice badge!)

More legit...find yourself a TS badge. Got one in my garage but it's pretty beat up.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[CrankyOldMan]

The car pulls hard right up to about 6000 rpm before it shifts. Does it push you back into your seat? Not exactly, but it's definitely more potent than the 1.5.

It's much more 'torquey', if that's a word.

...

So, to Tom, Trevor, Adam and Sam (not in any particular order), a huge THANKS for helping me through this!!!
Always glad to help, especially when someone is pioneering a new variant!

Agreed, it's not sports car level acceleration, but it's there all the way to redline. My favorite part is the way it loves to pull several hundred pounds of trailer and a hatch full of tools. =)

[ern-diz]

Too cool :clap:

[06YarisRS]

More legit...find yourself a TS badge. Got one in my garage but it's pretty beat up.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

I really like that idea, WeeYari. I think I may start looking. Does that badge go in the same place as the RS badge and would it attach in the same manner?

[ArmstrongRacing]

More legit...find yourself a TS badge. Got one in my garage but it's pretty beat up.

Oh right TS. I’m so confused now with all the different home-made versions we’ve created here...

1nz built n/a
1nz supercharged
1nz turbo
1nz with 6 speed
And
2zrfae swap
2zr with auto
2zr with 5 speed
2zr with 6 speed

[06YarisRS]

Always glad to help, especially when someone is pioneering a new variant!

Agreed, it's not sports car level acceleration, but it's there all the way to redline. My favorite part is the way it loves to pull several hundred pounds of trailer and a hatch full of tools. =)

Thanks Sam! One of the things I was looking for in the swap is more torque for highway cruising. I never found the 1.5 to be particularly underpowered, but it would downshift on longer, steeper hills. I haven't actually had it out on the highway yet, so can't comment on that , but your comment about carrying extra mass around makes me optimistic. I do think there is something in the programming for the cruise control that makes the car downshift before it needs to. I have rolled up long hills with the cruise off and rarely had to drop a gear to maintain speed. Something tells me that despite the swap - and extra torque - that this behaviour won't change.

[06YarisRS]

Too cool :clap:

Thanks ern-diz! It is awesome!

[06YarisRS]

More legit...find yourself a TS badge. Got one in my garage but it's pretty beat up.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Like this?

https://i.imgur.com/tR41w7m.jpg

There is this, but it looks like a peel-and-stick only. I would need one that attaches to the grille.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/TRD-T-Sport-Badge-Mr2-Celica-YARIS-Supra-Starlet-Mrs-GT-VVTi-Sport/1688846365?_trksid=p2047675.l2644

Looks like I found the actual badge (Toyota 75301-52010) in the UK, but it will not ship overseas.

[WeeYari]

The actual bolt fastened badge is a unicorn on these shores. May have to buddy up with one of our UK friends to arrange an acquisition.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

The actual bolt fastened badge is a unicorn on these shores. May have to buddy up with one of our UK friends to arrange an acquisition.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Excellent idea! May have to make a post about it.

[06YarisRS]

I went out for another drive this evening and I'm impressed. Took it out on the highway and found the steepest hill I could. I set the cruise control at 120 km/h. With the 1NZ and cruise set, it would always drop a gear. The 2ZR powers up the hill without a gear drop and not even a detectable increase in rpm. Awesome!

I was under the back of the car rigging up a bungy cord on the hanger to stop the clunking just for tonight. I had a look at the midpipe and I'm thinking I ought to have the exhaust shop chop the pipe at the resonator and upsize the pipe to the rear flange at the axle. Maybe to 2" or 2.25". I know that my muffler will be much more free flowing than the stock muffler, but I can't help but think that that midpipe is really restrictive. Taking into consideration what you have all said - and done - as well as reading a thread by 'the barber', I'm thinking this is the route to go. I've heard that a freer flowing (maybe too free-flowing) exhaust can adversely affect torque and I wouldn't want to lose any of that. Thoughts/comments welcome as always.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I did an extensive amount of research on this topic back when I did my swap too. I ended up using a magnaflow resonator and muffler, and 2.25in piping. The 2.5in pipe is where you start losing torque according to the internet dyno charts.

I have a video of my dyno run as proof that I didn’t loose any torque

[ern-diz]

I went out for another drive this evening and I'm impressed. Took it out on the highway and found the steepest hill I could. I set the cruise control at 120 km/h. With the 1NZ and cruise set, it would always drop a gear. The 2ZR powers up the hill without a gear drop and not even a detectable increase in rpm. Awesome!

I was under the back of the car rigging up a bungy cord on the hanger to stop the clunking just for tonight. I had a look at the midpipe and I'm thinking I ought to have the exhaust shop chop the pipe at the resonator and upsize the pipe to the rear flange at the axle. Maybe to 2" or 2.25". I know that my muffler will be much more free flowing than the stock muffler, but I can't help but think that that midpipe is really restrictive. Taking into consideration what you have all said - and done - as well as reading a thread by 'the barber', I'm thinking this is the route to go. I've heard that a freer flowing (maybe too free-flowing) exhaust can adversely affect torque and I wouldn't want to lose any of that. Thoughts/comments welcome as always.

I'm by no means an expert but from what I understand, you want to be able to tune to the air/fuel flow. Since these cars are next to impossible to tune, I've stayed away from intake/exhaust mods out of fear of actually losing BHP and/or torque rather than gaining. The noises it would make might be nice but without gains, or worse yet, with losses, I don't see the point.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Also

If you find those TS badges I’ll buy one for everyone on here with a swap. It’s the least I can do to show my appreciation for all the support of everyone here.

[06YarisRS]

I did an extensive amount of research on this topic back when I did my swap too. I ended up using a magnaflow resonator and muffler, and 2.25in piping. The 2.5in pipe is where you start losing torque according to the internet dyno charts.

I have a video of my dyno run as proof that I didn’t loose any torque

Excellent. Thanks Tom! I'll check out your video. It would be great to have a comparison between the stock exhaust and a freer flowing one. Barber said he noticed no difference with just the muffler, but the midpipe made a noticeable difference, but I think, if I recall correctly, that was on a 1.5.

[06YarisRS]

I'm by no means an expert but from what I understand, you want to be able to tune to the air/fuel flow. Since these cars are next to impossible to tune, I've stayed away from intake/exhaust mods out of fear of actually losing BHP and/or torque rather than gaining. The noises it would make might be nice but without gains, or worse yet, with losses, I don't see the point.

Thanks ern-diz. Minimally, I'd like to get back to what the stock xD exhaust was. The used eBay midpipe I almost got looked mandrel bent and much more free-flowing than the aftermarket one I bought. As Adam mentioned earlier in the thread, these aftermarket ones (He mentioned the Walker in particular) have significant restrictions in the bends. He was definitely right about that!

[06YarisRS]

Also

If you find those TS badges I’ll buy one for everyone on here with a swap. It’s the least I can do to show my appreciation for all the support of everyone here.

Huh? I think I should be buying them :laugh: I will keep looking and let you know if I come up with anything.

EDIT: Following up on a lead now. I've emailed a UK eBay seller. Will let you know. I need to confirm if this is what we're looking for:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Toyota-7530152010/652635220

And this, but with different coloring and part number (and actual pic of back):

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=282242020238&category=72211&pm=1&ds=0&t=1533929206000&ver=0

I can only find pics of the front of the badge online. There is a cheaper one (4.99 pounds) but I think it's a sticker. The listing above refers to placement on the front of the car.

[atomic_hoji]

Torquey == broke loose in 3rd gear this morning; yes, it was wet.. :laugh:

Glad to hear you're enjoying the new found, smooth power of the 2ZR!

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Torquey == broke loose in 3rd gear this morning; yes, it was wet.. :laugh:

Glad to hear you're enjoying the new found, smooth power of the 2ZR!

-- Adam

2ZR-FAE 139 - 148 HP! I bet it can break loose! You must feel a significant difference from stock.

I am definitely loving the 2ZR. Car feels a lot lighter. :thumbsup:

[stidnam]

An alternate part number for that badge you're after is

75312-52060

Im not sure what the differences are but both badges can be had for $30 AUD from amayama.com

Can get pictures from the parts catalogue this evening if needed.

:)

[06YarisRS]

An alternate part number for that badge you're after is

75312-52060

Im not sure what the differences are but both badges can be had for $30 AUD from amayama.com

Can get pictures from the parts catalogue this evening if needed.

:)

Thank you, Stidnam! Just checked that out. Definitely a possibility. It looks like shipping would be killer from no matter where.

[tmontague]

Like this?

https://i.imgur.com/tR41w7m.jpg

There is this, but it looks like a peel-and-stick only. I would need one that attaches to the grille.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/TRD-T-Sport-Badge-Mr2-Celica-YARIS-Supra-Starlet-Mrs-GT-VVTi-Sport/1688846365?_trksid=p2047675.l2644

Looks like I found the actual badge (Toyota 75301-52010) in the UK, but it will not ship overseas.

I have that badge on my trunk, after about a year the red faded and crack/chipped, looks ok but cheap as hell

I initially had a 2.5" and can confirm the loss in torque according to my butt dyno. I went back and got 2.25" and I'm all smiles now

[06YarisRS]

I have that badge on my trunk, after about a year the red faded and crack/chipped, looks ok but cheap as hell

I initially had a 2.5" and can confirm the loss in torque according to my butt dyno. I went back and got 2.25" and I'm all smiles now

Yeah, I'm sure the cheapie ones are junk. Hopefully, the Toyota part would be much better made.

Thanks for your experience with the exhaust. I'm thinking 2.25", since it will be crush bent, would be my best bet. I found a place that will do the exhaust with a day or two notice. I'll probably make an appointment for the beginning of the week.

[stidnam]

Not sure how much shipping is coming to for you, but 5 of those badges shipped to my address in Aus is only $8.50 AUD

[06YarisRS]

Not sure how much shipping is coming to for you, but 5 of those badges shipped to my address in Aus is only $8.50 AUD

Yeah, it's fairly expensive given the size and weight of the package. Now, we could probably get combined shipping.

https://i.imgur.com/tJBS4KP.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Yeah, it's fairly expensive given the size and weight of the package. Now, we could probably...

I'm on board, PM me with your paypal info

[06YarisRS]

I'm on board, PM me with your paypal info

I found a much better price Tom. The guy from England emailed me back and he can deliver 6 of these emblems for $120.00 USD. Maybe we could have them delivered to a central location and redistribute from there. Or, I could ask him shipping quotes for each individual piece to different addresses. If you can PM me an email address, I can send you the email. I'm not sure how many we need all together, and maybe the guy could offer a similar deal for a smaller number.

EDIT: Here is link to the listing he created:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=264031301565&_sacat=0

I would like to contribute financially. I would also offer to receive them and mail them out to the recipients.

Thanks

Just to confirm, here are the pics of his product:

https://i.imgur.com/N12VdvY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uuBV8oG.jpg

[WeeYari]

Be warned guys.

The sedan and hatch do not share the same front grill insert design. I'm willing to bet that the clip in badge will only work on the hatch. I have seen another badge which mounts via a single pass thru bolt which facilitates universal mounting.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Be warned guys.

The sedan and hatch do not share the same front grill insert design. I'm willing to bet that the clip in badge will only work on the hatch. I have seen another badge which mounts via a single pass thru bolt which facilitates universal mounting.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Oh my. I hadn't thought of that. Excellent point. We will clearly have to rethink this.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Oh my. I hadn't thought of that. Excellent point. We will clearly have to rethink this.

I’m not worried,anyone who’s done the swap can surely modify a badge. It’s only Trevor and I with Sedans.

Im still interested, let me know how to proceed

[06YarisRS]

I’m not worried,anyone who’s done the swap can surely modify a badge. It’s only Trevor and I with Sedans.

Im still interested, let me know how to proceed

Excellent. Thanks Tom. Shall we order all 6? I would like to cover 1/2 of the cost. I can go ahead and place the order. We just need to decide where to send them.

Adam

[ern-diz]

I wanna be part of the TS crew :cry:

[06YarisRS]

I wanna be part of the TS crew :cry:

https://i.imgur.com/BrKtzAq.jpg

[06YarisRS]

Just scored on eBay $100.00 + $50.00 shipping...

https://i.imgur.com/aoatjE6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hjwaudc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FQpvP1j.jpg

[DarkShadowFox]

Just scored on eBay $100.00 + $50.00 shipping...

https://i.imgur.com/aoatjE6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hjwaudc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FQpvP1j.jpg

*deep fart can noise*

[06YarisRS]

*deep fart can noise*

Seriously? Is it going to sound like a fart can? I don't like the sound of that, literally and figuratively.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Seriously? Is it going to sound like a fart can? I don't like the sound of that, literally and figuratively.

I don’t think so, as long as you keep 1 resonator you should be fine

[06YarisRS]

I don’t think so, as long as you keep 1 resonator you should be fine


Thanks. That's good to know. I will definitely be keeping the resonator and both cats. Just need to upsize the pipe from the resonator to the axle.

[DarkShadowFox]

Thanks. That's good to know. I will definitely be keeping the resonator and both cats. Just need to upsize the pipe from the resonator to the axle.

i dunno i was being silly. id keep your cats and stuff otherwise its just going to be all noise. c:

:bonk: myself

[tmontague]

Yup keep the resonator for sure, it's a well flowing 2 5' open pipe iirc and it does a lot to remove the rasp

[06YarisRS]

i dunno i was being silly. id keep your cats and stuff otherwise its just going to be all noise. c:

:bonk: myself :laugh:

I will indeed keep the cats and resonator. Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

Yup keep the resonator for sure, it's a well flowing 2 5' open pipe iirc and it does a lot to remove the rasp

:thumbsup: I have a question for ya.

Before I found the Megan axleback- and was going to use that other muffler I got - I had talked to an exhaust shop. They said that I should remove the flanges at the muffler and end of the midpipe and have on continuous pipe, bent over the axle. I don't really like the idea of hacking the end off the Megan and welding directly to it. What would you do in this case? If the Megan is designed to attach to stock Yaris exhaust, it must be a smaller diameter, wouldn't it. Would this small area of smaller diameter cause a restriction in flow?

[ArmstrongRacing]

My exhaust shop did this as well. Cut the flange off and did a solid 2.25” from the resonator. I haven’t had to remove it so I cant comment of serviceability once it’s all solid

[06YarisRS]

My exhaust shop did this as well. Cut the flange off and did a solid 2.25” from the resonator. I haven’t had to remove it so I cant comment of serviceability once it’s all solid

Yeah, the exhaust shop said that it just eliminates another point where leaking can happen, which definitely makes sense to me. This shop only uses aluminized pipe and does not mandrel bend, but this Yaris will never see the salty roads of winter. I also think that 2.25" will give good flow even though it's crush bending.

I bet it would make removing the pipe a little more difficult, or even impossible if it's welded, but it can always be cut again and rewelded if need be.

[tmontague]

The exhaust shop i went to also welded everything solid. Personally I'm not a fan. The gaskets with spring bolts add a section where it can flex under stress. This is one of the reasons my muffler weld snapped after 3 years when I was at the track.

I also like to be able to remove the exhaust in pieces if I need to service anything. I hate not being able to do thatvwithba solid one piece exhaust.

[06YarisRS]

The exhaust shop i went to also welded everything solid. Personally I'm not a fan. The gaskets with spring bolts add a section where it can flex under stress. This is one of the reasons my muffler weld snapped after 3 years when I was at the track.

I also like to be able to remove the exhaust in pieces if I need to service anything. I hate not being able to do thatvwithba solid one piece exhaust.

Good points for sure. I'm going to think about this a bit more before I move on it.

[WeeYari]

The exhaust shop i went to also welded everything solid. Personally I'm not a fan. The gaskets with spring bolts add a section where it can flex under stress. This is one of the reasons my muffler weld snapped after 3 years when I was at the track.

I also like to be able to remove the exhaust in pieces if I need to service anything. I hate not being able to do thatvwithba solid one piece exhaust.^ all of this.

I am currently welded solid as a repair was done which unbeknownst to me involved cutting out the flange. I hate the solid setup. I had been in the habit of swapping in my Tanabe Medalion for the summers, but no longer can. Now it just hangs useless in my basement.

Your hands just become tied once welded in.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust Straight Talk...

Well, looking for opinions.

Here is my current setup:

Eastern Catalytics Midpipe which is large diameter until the resonator, then narrows down. This currently attached to the OEM Yaris, very restrictive, muffler. Question to you all: If I just bolt the Megan racing to the Eastern Catalytic midpipe, will it provide good enough flow. If I am only going to gain an almost imperceptible amount of power, does it really make sense to replace from the resonator back with large diameter pipe? I mean if I'm not going to feel a difference, is it really worth it. Maybe it would make a big difference. I also don't want cause the engine problems - in the long term - with too much backpressure. I suppose I could do this and then down the road, upsize that section of pipe.

Thought and opinions appreciated.

https://i.imgur.com/Q7KWa3t.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

I honestly wouldn’t mess with it yet. You’re still using a stock exhaust manifold so that pipe diameter reduction after the resonator likely isn’t your biggest issue.

I’d say just bolt it all up and drive it for a while. Try to sell off your 1nz parts and recoup some money, then revisit this in the future.

[CrankyOldMan]

Excellent. Thanks Tom. Shall we order all 6? I would like to cover 1/2 of the cost. I can go ahead and place the order. We just need to decide where to send them.

Adam

I'm in. Domestic post in the us is pretty cheap, so I'm good with one person distributing them instead of separates shipping from the UK.

[06YarisRS]

I honestly wouldn’t mess with it yet. You’re still using a stock exhaust manifold so that pipe diameter reduction after the resonator likely isn’t your biggest issue.

I’d say just bolt it all up and drive it for a while. Try to sell off your 1nz parts and recoup some money, then revisit this in the future.

Excellent advice that I will follow, for sure. Thanks!

[tmontague]

I honestly wouldn’t mess with it yet. You’re still using a stock exhaust manifold so that pipe diameter reduction after the resonator likely isn’t your biggest issue.

I’d say just bolt it all up and drive it for a while. Try to sell off your 1nz parts and recoup some money, then revisit this in the future.

Fully agree, it wont make a large difference and since you tend to like to keep the rpm's down this will keep the torque in that range.

As Tom said, revisit it down the road if need be

[06YarisRS]

I'm in. Domestic post in the us is pretty cheap, so I'm good with one person distributing them instead of separates shipping from the UK.

Great, Sam. Am I interpreting correctly from your response that I should have the seller send them to you and you would redistribute? If so, please PM me your address. I'm going to contact the seller of the badges and see if he will give us a deal on 3, unless anyone else decides they want one. I will place the order when I hear back from the seller.

Thanks

[06YarisRS]

Fully agree, it wont make a large difference and since you tend to like to keep the rpm's down this will keep the torque in that range.

As Tom said, revisit it down the road if need be

Yes, I was thinking that too. I suppose the true benefit of a freer flowing system comes into play when the engine is outputting at higher RPM. Thanks.

[DarkShadowFox]

Can you make one for the 2015 liftback because i am poverty :D ?

[06YarisRS]

Exhaust Pipe Sizing

Thought I'd do a little reading about proper sizing for exhaust. For now I am just going to leave the 1.75" midpipe (from the resonator to muffler flange) and bolt up the Megan axleback. However, at some point down the road, I'll likely do an upgrade on that section of the midpipe.

Here is a table for reference. I am not sure how accurate this is, but it talks about flow through a "straight" section of pipe. According to the table (based upon a HP output of ~130), I should use a 2" pipe. I think The Barber said he had great success with a 2" resonator to muffler flange upgrade. Considering that I have the 1.8L engine and there are bends, turns etc in the pipe, I would upsize to 2.25", which jives completely with what everyone here is saying.

Link: http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/

https://i.imgur.com/Xuixuto.jpg

[CrankyOldMan]

Great, Sam. Am I interpreting correctly from your response that I should have the seller send them to you and you would redistribute? If so, please PM me your address. I'm going to contact the seller of the badges and see if he will give us a deal on 3, unless anyone else decides they want one. I will place the order when I hear back from the seller.

Thanks

If it's easier that way, I can do that. I was suggesting in general that it's probably easier on the seller to just use one address and then we as a group can sort it out on our end. =)

[ern-diz]

https://i.imgur.com/BrKtzAq.jpg

Hate to break up the good exhaust piping progress happening but I just saw this and had to acknowledge its excellence lol.

[06YarisRS]

If it's easier that way, I can do that. I was suggesting in general that it's probably easier on the seller to just use one address and then we as a group can sort it out on our end. =)

As per PM, I had them sent to me, Sam. Not sure when they'll arrive, but I'll let you guys know approximately when to expect them. Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

Hate to break up the good exhaust piping progress happening but I just saw this and had to acknowledge its excellence lol.

Like that do ya? :laugh: Clearly, I have too much time on my hands. If I still had Photoshop, it would have been a better job. But Paint will do in a pinch.

[ArmstrongRacing]

Like that do ya? :laugh: Clearly, I have too much time on my hands. If I still had Photoshop, it would have been a better job. But Paint will do in a pinch.

Make that your profile pic!!!

[06YarisRS]

Make that your profile pic!!!

Now there's an idea! :laugh:

[ArmstrongRacing]

I had this wild idea that we should all take similar photos with our cars for TS group photo I can edit together. We just need to decide on a pose

[06YarisRS]

I had this wild idea that we should all take similar photos with our cars for TS group photo I can edit together. We just need to decide on a pose

100% behind this!!! Would be awesome. :thumbsup:

As an aside, the badges have been processed through Heathrow.

EDIT: After watching your videos, Tom, I think one - complete with tunes - is in order for the TS group. :headbang: Maybe we should send you clips too!

[atomic_hoji]

I may have to wash mine... :eyebulge: lol Otherwise, awesome idea!

edit: also, I think everyone up here will have a picture covered in snow - you will seriously impress me if you can blend that in to your California weather! :laugh:


-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

A pic I snapped of the engine bay. Just gotta tidy up the stereo power wires and clean the rustproofing gunk off my shock towers. Then, of course, spray new 'cleaner' rustproofing, even though the car won't see winter driving.

https://i.imgur.com/NEbMNQm.png

[ArmstrongRacing]

100% behind this!!! Would be awesome. :thumbsup:

As an aside, the badges have been processed through Heathrow.

EDIT: After watching your videos, Tom, I think one - complete with tunes - is in order for the TS group. :headbang: Maybe we should send you clips too!

That would be even better! Clips of each person with their car, maybe saying your name and location, then some driving/racing footage, wrenching footage, washing footage....then I could put it all together and make it my channel trailer

[TSportblack]

Hi.

I read your Thread and I,m speakless about your work of the 2ZR-FE swap!!! Congratulation!!!!

Greez from Germany

Pj :headbang:

[06YarisRS]

Hi.

I read your Thread and I,m speakless about your work of the 2ZR-FE swap!!! Congratulation!!!!

Greez from Germany

Pj :headbang:

Thanks! It was a very fun, yet sometimes challenging, project. I could not have done it without the help of the other guys on the site, but you already know that since you read the thread.

I saw pictures of your car in your other post. I love everything about it! Please send me your front and rear bumper covers. I MUST have them! :laugh:

[06YarisRS]

That would be even better! Clips of each person with their car, maybe saying your name and location, then some driving/racing footage, wrenching footage, washing footage....then I could put it all together and make it my channel trailer

Stellar plan. I'm in! I wonder if spring would be the best time. Getting very winter-like here now! :frown:

Badges update: Customs Clearance New York City - Gateway, USA. I should have them very soon!

[ArmstrongRacing]

Stellar plan. I'm in! I wonder if spring would be the best time. Getting very winter-like here now!

Agreed. Now just be careful this winter with the extra torque!

[06YarisRS]

Agreed. Now just be careful this winter with the extra torque!

Ah, my 2ZR baby will be getting tucked away for winter soon. This is part of the reason I bought the '08. I plan to keep the '06 for a good long time and Maritime winters are just too hard on the car bodies. My '08 of course will look like a rolling oil slick before long. It will be getting another thorough oiling soon.

[06YarisRS]

Megan Axleback Arrived!

Pictures do not do this thing justice. It is one solid piece of hardware. Can't wait to get it bolted up!

https://i.imgur.com/bWD1OT6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GsU0IdP.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Wow! That’s a beautiful piece. I believe I have a set of lowering springs in my shed if you’re interested....

[06YarisRS]

Wow! That’s a beautiful piece. I believe I have a set of lowering springs in my shed if you’re interested....

Hey Tom! Almost everyone I talk to tells me I should lower it. Right now, I have the Penguin 13mm spacers on the back and I'm running 195/65R15 tires. What kind are the springs and how much of a drop? Do you think I'd have any rubbing issues? I'm going to look online again for pics to see the difference. If I did go for it, how much do you want for the springs?

There was something else I wanted to ask you about. What engine oil do you run? I know you race yours, but would you recommend synthetic for the 2ZR for normal, 'spirited' driving?

Thanks man!!!

[tmontague]

Are you on stock rims? If so then you wont rub. Lowering springs would make the car more fun to drive especially if it's only a summer car and you don't use it to pack a bunch of people in it

[06YarisRS]

Are you on stock rims? If so then you wont rub. Lowering springs would make the car more fun to drive especially if it's only a summer car and you don't use it to pack a bunch of people in it

I am on stock rims, Trevor. You don't think the 13mm Penguins and wider tire would create an issue? I would definitely have the kids in the back and some luggage for road trips, but I doubt that would exceed 200 lbs, worse case scenario.

[WeeYari]

Be prepared for rear left to buzz the liner if you hit highway dips at speed while loaded.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Be prepared for rear left to buzz the liner if you hit highway dips at speed while loaded.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Ah. I would not like that. Is that because of the spacers and tire size I have, or normal behaviour for a stock configuration? Thanks!

[06YarisRS]

Have a snow day today so while the kiddies were out building a snowman - I am on "Daddy-Duty" today and took a short break - I decided to lay some compound on the axleback and hit it with my DA polisher. Would have prefered bolting it on instead, but that would have made me unavailable to respond when the kids inevitably started fighting. :barf:

Hoping for to get this puppy bolted up tomorrow - or maybe later tonight after the kiddies go to bed. :thumbsup:

https://i.imgur.com/zRJVqyo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CvEAM1b.jpg

[WeeYari]

Ah. I would not like that. Is that because of the spacers and tire size I have, or normal behaviour for a stock configuration? Thanks!Spacers.

So many people over the years have stated don't worry you'll be fine with your type of setup. I think the bulk of them must travel 99.9% of the time solo with no weight in the back. I've had very similar configuration, lowered 1.5", and I'm here to tell ya, the wheel mentioned will buzz the fender arch and it's annoying as hell.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

If you plan on using the car to carry stuff or people in the back then avoid lowering springs. If you want to use it as a fun sporty type car then you will enjoy the springs but it won't be good for loading people into. Iirc the yaris weight capacity is 800lbs stock.

I had 2 adults in my rear and 2 in the front on my lowering springs and never rubbed. This was before rolled fenders and I had my 10mm spacers in the rear at the time. I was running a 6.5" wide rim with a +35 offset on a 185 wide tire.

I did had some negative camber in the rear (approx -2.0) but it was fine. So Wee's experience is one thing but you won't truly know until you try it out

[ArmstrongRacing]

....I have the Penguin 13mm spacers on the back and I'm running 195/65R15 tires. What kind are the springs and how much of a drop? Do you think I'd have any rubbing issues? I'm going to look online again for pics to see the difference. If I did go for it, how much do you want for the springs?

.....would you recommend synthetic for the 2ZR for normal, 'spirited' driving?

Thanks man!!!

I didn’t have any rubbing issues with stock wheels and tires, but once I put on aftermarket wheels it rubbed. The springs are MicroImage, 1.5” drop I think but very good quality ride. You have to decide what’s more important to you, spacers or a more performance look and ride. I would send you the springs for just shipping cost, but I gotta go dig them out. Like Trevor mentioned, you don’t know until you try...

I used to use Amsoil, until I did oil analysis on Amsoil and Mobil1....and saw they’re pretty much the same. I use Mobil1 10w40, but for normal use I recommend their 0w20.

[06YarisRS]

I didn’t have any rubbing issues with stock wheels and tires, but once I put on aftermarket wheels it rubbed. The springs are MicroImage, 1.5” drop I think but very good quality ride. You have to decide what’s more important to you, spacers or a more performance look and ride. I would send you the springs for just shipping cost, but I gotta go dig them out. Like Trevor mentioned, you don’t know until you try...

I used to use Amsoil, until I did oil analysis on Amsoil and Mobil1....and saw they’re pretty much the same. I use Mobil1 10w40, but for normal use I recommend their 0w20.

Thanks very much Tom! Your offer is extremely generous. If you have no immediate plans to do anything with them, would you mind if I gave it some thought for a while? I really have no issues with the current ride characteristics of my Yaris and I hope to use it with the family as much as I can for trips and such. I do like a factory feel ride and our roads around here are really quite poor in sections (rough and bumpy). One of the things that I have been thinking about for a while is a rear sway bar, but again, not for any perceived lack of handling with the factory suspension. My understanding is that it would reduce body roll, again, not that there seems to be much of that - at least in the way I drive. I'm almost thinking that lowering springs might be wasted on me.

Thanks for the recommendations on the oil. I think I may start using the Mobile 1 0W20.

Thanks Trevor and WeeYari for your observations as well. I appreciate them.

[WeeYari]

I really have no issues with the current ride characteristics of my Yaris and I hope to use it with the family as much as I can for trips and such. I do like a factory feel ride and our roads around here are really quite poor in sections (rough and bumpy).

Stay stock.



Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

^agreed

[06YarisRS]

Thanks Gents!

Click on this link if you want to hear the Megan Axleback. It's got a nice nasty growl from the 2ZR. I absolutely love the sound and it's not too loud. Looking forward to a highway drive to see if I have any droning, but the roads will have to be cleared up. Will likely be a few days before I can do that. Sorry about all the steam, but I had to open my garage door. I had my 9 yr old son revving it up for me. I'll do a better video later. Right now my son is working on the vid to blur my plate number before I re-upload it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsAKOXFyWJE

I'm taking the car to an exhaust shop as I'm not happy with all the connections and positioning. I think it's still going to bang on the spring. It needs to be rolled clockwise a few degrees and held there. I also need new isolators, for sure. I'll let the pros handle the 'fine tuning'.

https://i.imgur.com/oiIbIOp.jpg

[tmontague]

Sounds nice!

[06YarisRS]

Sounds nice!

It does, doesn't it! I think I have a tiny leak up at the manifold/midpipe connection as I didn't get the flanges evenly torqued down on both sides. Although I ordered Corolla springbolt kits, I couldn't get both sides equally clamped. This exhaust stuff doesn't always go as planned. I figure a few bucks to get everything adjusted and secured by the pros is definitely worth it.

[ArmstrongRacing]

I like it, kinda sounds like mine if you watch my racing videos.

Make more videos! I subscribed

[06YarisRS]

I like it, kinda sounds like mine if you watch my racing videos.

Make more videos! I subscribed

Totally sounds like yours. I think I've watched all your vids.

Here's another vid for ya. I'm new to youtube vids, so don't expect much, LOL.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Edvs_TSGkY

[ArmstrongRacing]

Totally sounds like yours. I think I've watched all your vids.

Here's another vid for ya. I'm new to youtube vids, so don't expect muchTSGkY[/URL]

Awesome man! Keep it up, your doing great!

[06YarisRS]

Awesome man! Keep it up, your doing great!

Thanks man! Gotta say, I'm just loving the sound of that 2ZR/Megan combo! She's got a nice growl. :clap:

[06YarisRS]

Stocking Stuffers

Santa thought it prudent to reward, early, all the good little boys who helped 06YarisRS with his swap (Sorry, I don't normally talk in the 3rd person)! Some are already enroute south of the border from the North Pole.

https://i.imgur.com/6dsYZXD.jpg

[WeeYari]

^ Nice.

I never would have imagined my comment about sporting a TS badge would become such a North American movement. Gonna look sharp.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

^ Nice.

I never would have imagined my comment about sporting a TS badge would become such a North American movement. Gonna look sharp.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

All brilliant ideas should be acted upon. It was an inspirational comment! :thumbsup:

[ArmstrongRacing]

Can’t thank you enough for the handsome gifts you’ve generously distributed to us. You’re kindness will be remembered every time the emblem strikes a conversation.

[06YarisRS]

Can’t thank you enough for the handsome gifts you’ve generously distributed to us. You’re kindness will be remembered every time the emblem strikes a conversation.

Hey, you're more than welcome, man! A small gesture for the countless hours you guys put in helping me with my swap.

I haven't mounted my badge yet, but hope to soon. I'll post up a pic. I think a dedicated thread with pics of all our swapped cars with the badges would be cool.

As a brief update, I'd had been having some exhaust issues. The Megan was banging on the spring pan under any driving conditions. I had it in the shop yesterday and tried some adjustments. I turned the midpipe (it's fixed with a clamp in the middle) and tightened the clamp and removed and reinstalled the rear spring bolts. Also replaced a few rubber hangers. It's still not where I want it. It's also hanging a bit low for my liking. On hard left turns and a bump, it will hit the plate. I'm really considering taking it to an exhaust shop and having them do it, including upping the resonator to muffler flange with 2.25" pipe.

About a month ago, a rock flew off an oncoming car and cracked my windshield close to the passenger A-piller. It was about - 15C here yesterday and as I started driving to work - I took it to work to fix the exhaust - I heard this sound like a zipper and the crack shot right across the windshield, right to the driver's side.

I've been romping on the car a bit more lately - running it up to close to redline from about 30 km/h up and, man, this thing pulls!!! Not that torque steer is a desireable attribute, but it's nice to know there's extra power there. I can see why an LSD would be great for additional traction and likely necessary with any additional performance upgrades.

https://i.imgur.com/HAEGcdL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IyJ2h9L.jpg

[tmontague]

An LSD also helps huge in the snow - or at least a clutch type LSD does. I'm amazed at how well it chugs through the snow with winter tires while both front tires are spinning.

A stock height yaris with 4 winter tires and a clutch type LSD would be a snow machine. Just woukdjt make much sense to put that amount of money into a yaris for snow traction if you could just buy an awd for that amount.


I echo Tom's sentiments, thanks a ton for buying us all the badges, it was a great idea and much appreciated

[06YarisRS]

An LSD also helps huge in the snow - or at least a clutch type LSD does. I'm amazed at how well it chugs through the snow with winter tires while both front tires are spinning.

A stock height yaris with 4 winter tires and a clutch type LSD would be a snow machine. Just woukdjt make much sense to put that amount of money into a yaris for snow traction if you could just buy an awd for that amount.


I echo Tom's sentiments, thanks a ton for buying us all the badges, it was a great idea and much appreciated

You're welcome, Trevor.

Yeah, I bet an LSD would be amazing. Just as a matter of interest, would the same LSD be used for both auto and manual transmission?

On another note, I've been watching videos on the Yaris's that have been swapped with the 2ZZ engine. Now that would be a swap! That valve lift is something else. I bet the Yaris transmission would grenade if connected to one of those engines. I wonder if a 2zz and its mated transmission would be a crazy difficult install.

[atomic_hoji]

Can’t thank you enough for the handsome gifts you’ve generously distributed to us. You’re kindness will be remembered every time the emblem strikes a conversation.

An LSD also helps huge in the snow - or at least a clutch type LSD does. I'm amazed at how well it chugs through the snow with winter tires while both front tires are spinning.
A stock height yaris with 4 winter tires and a clutch type LSD would be a snow machine. Just woukdjt make much sense to put that amount of money into a yaris for snow traction if you could just buy an awd for that amount.
I echo Tom's sentiments, thanks a ton for buying us all the badges, it was a great idea and much appreciated

+1 buddy, muchly appreciated! And glad to see you're having a grand time hooning about with your new found torque! :thumbup:

Hhhmmm... LSD + winter tires = snow machine, you say... :biggrin:

re: exhaust - it seems to be the way of the world, lol. Functionally, it works just fine, but the principle of clunkage and banging is just a nuisance.. I hear ya. :laugh: I'm sure the professionals at a decent exhaust shop can get you sorted. Overall the car is looking (and sounding) great, man.

Take care!
-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

You can’t use a clutch type lsd in an automatic due to he fluid type restriction. You could install one of those wavetrac units though, but I’m not sure it’s worth the effort

[06YarisRS]

You can’t use a clutch type lsd in an automatic due to he fluid type restriction. You could install one of those wavetrac units though, but I’m not sure it’s worth the effort

Ah, interesting. Thanks! Yeah, it sounds like it would be crazy expensive. I'm more than happy with the performance as it stands. I had it out tonight - the roads are clear and dry - and I did a few pulls from about 30 km/h up. Pulls, pulls, pulls. I did one 0 - 60 run but couldn't get my dang Torque to record my time. On the way back from the store there's a long hill on the highway. I sailed up that at 140 and the 2zr wasn't even breaking a sweat. Exhaust sounds pertty good inside with very minimal droning - nothing that a couple more clicks of the volume knob won't fix. At cruise, around 110 km/h and about 2800 rpm, it's very acceptable.

[06YarisRS]

+1 buddy, muchly appreciated! And glad to see you're having a grand time hooning about with your new found torque! :thumbup:

Hhhmmm... LSD + winter tires = snow machine, you say... :biggrin:

re: exhaust - it seems to be the way of the world, lol. Functionally, it works just fine, but the principle of clunkage and banging is just a nuisance.. I hear ya. :laugh: I'm sure the professionals at a decent exhaust shop can get you sorted. Overall the car is looking (and sounding) great, man.

Take care!
-- Adam

Thanks Adam! Yeah, I'm definitely going to set up an appointment at an exhaust shop. I'll make my final decision about upsizing the pipe soon.

I haven't shipped your or Trevor's badge yet as I haven't time to seek out alternative shipping. But, it should be soon though.

[CrankyOldMan]

About a month ago, a rock flew off an oncoming car and cracked my windshield close to the passenger A-piller. It was about - 15C here yesterday and as I started driving to work - I took it to work to fix the exhaust - I heard this sound like a zipper and the crack shot right across the windshield, right to the driver's side.

Oh good, now I'm not the only 2ZR swap with a cracked windshield. :laugh:

[06YarisRS]

Oh good, now I'm not the only 2ZR swap with a cracked windshield. :laugh:

Haha, no you're not. I think I'll wait until spring, when the car comes out of storage, to get the window replaced.

[06YarisRS]

Badge

Looks as though the badge is going to require some modifications to fit on my car. The original TS grille seems to be more of a 'square' honeycomb and mine is more of a vertically elongated honeycomb. So, I'll be thinking about ways to adapt it to fit. A little disappointing, but definitely solvable. I'm wondering if a really strong RTV sealant would be adequate.

I thought I might buy a knockoff TS grille but the only honeycomb style grilles on eBay appear to be the same as mine.

Sorry, gentlemen, I thought these would be a direct fit, snap on item - at least for Sam and me (hatchbacks). If anyone has any suggestions about how to afix the badge, I'm all ears. Thanks.

[WeeYari]

How about knocking enough clip off to allow it to sit flat on grill. Epoxy a nylon bolt onto the back of badge. Tighten into grill with nylon nut.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

How about knocking enough clip off to allow it to sit flat on grill. Epoxy a nylon bolt onto the back of badge. Tighten into grill with nylon nut.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

Excellent suggestion WeeYari. Before reading this, I went out and attached the badge. As you suggested, I removed a couple of the clips. Then it would sit flush and stay put, but not strongly affixed. I put large globs of RTV sealant on the clips, then went around behind and applied more rtv, basically creating a big blob that connected all of the remaining clips. Since it's cold in my garage, I gently used my heat gun to warm the rtv. When this cures, the grill would come with the badge if pulled hard enough.

Here are a couple pics. Sorry about the quality. Crap camera and bad lighting.

https://i.imgur.com/dK210Ol.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AgTfZuT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/A6LsrIH.jpg

Here's a better one taken outside.

https://i.imgur.com/YZoI2aT.jpg

[ArmstrongRacing]

Awesome!

[CrankyOldMan]

Badge

Looks as though the badge is going to require some modifications to fit on my car. The original TS grille seems to be more of a 'square' honeycomb and mine is more of a vertically elongated honeycomb. So, I'll be thinking about ways to adapt it to fit. A little disappointing, but definitely solvable. I'm wondering if a really strong RTV sealant would be adequate.

I thought I might buy a knockoff TS grille but the only honeycomb style grilles on eBay appear to be the same as mine.

Sorry, gentlemen, I thought these would be a direct fit, snap on item - at least for Sam and me (hatchbacks). If anyone has any suggestions about how to afix the badge, I'm all ears. Thanks.

I looked up the badge part number on toyodiy.com and it's only for the 1st gen Vitz (Echo in the US/Canada). There is/was a TS badge for the Euro ZSP90 (75312-52060) but I don't show any hits on the gargler for places that have it available for purchase. That also assumes you have a compatible grille for it (only available on JDM 05-08 RS or EURO 06-08 TS models). That said, I'm still going to try and rig something up to put it on mine. =)

[06YarisRS]

I looked up the badge part number on toyodiy.com and it's only for the 1st gen Vitz (Echo in the US/Canada). There is/was a TS badge for the Euro ZSP90 (75312-52060) but I don't show any hits on the gargler for places that have it available for purchase. That also assumes you have a compatible grille for it (only available on JDM 05-08 RS or EURO 06-08 TS models). That said, I'm still going to try and rig something up to put it on mine. =)

Yeah, I couldn't find anything other than the ones I got. It actually isn't too bad for installation, at least for my grille. I would have used WeeYari's suggestion about epoxying a plastic bolt to it and using a plastic nut to secure it, but I'd already 'glued' it on.

Looks like your badge arrived. I look forward to seeing it on your car when you get the opportunity to install it.

[06YarisRS]

Picked up my sway bar and A/C manifold gauge kit and the fittings needed to attach to the R134 can. Required an R134 can tap, flare to male pipe half union and pipe coupling.

I nearly gave myself a hernia lifting the vacuum pump out of the box. Man, that's a solid pump!

https://i.imgur.com/PeQPqpG.jpg

Holding 30" of vacuum after 90 minutes. I'm confident that the system is leak free. Will put a 45 minute vacuum on the system tomorrow, then fill with refrigerant ~15 - 17 oz, or about 1 and slightly less than 1/2 cans. EDIT: looks more like 13 - 14 oz of R134 All this, just in time for winter. :rolleyes: At least the system will remain uncontaminated. I didn't want to leave any air/moisture in the system.

https://i.imgur.com/nBdKDWl.jpg