30K throttle service

[jaggurnaut]

I just put 30K on my Yaris and took it in to the dealer for the 30K. Just got a call about a $60 throttle service (remove carbon) and a $30 air filter sensor service (will have to buy air filter sensors at 50K if service not performed). The 30K service costs $290. What do you guys think? Am I being overcharged and is the service necessary.

My yaris is a manual driven in mostly hilly areas. Its a commuter car and I absolutely need it everyday.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

[07typeS]

i thought they cover everything when you take it into them?? i got the complete package, I figure if there is some kind of service they think is necessary and its still under warranty, shouldnt they eat it???

[-m-]

Pretty sure they'll get out of it by calling it maintenance. When I got mine the dealer told me that I have to do required maintenance on the car or my waranty will be voided. They are talking about the oil changes but I'm sure they will figure out something else to call maintenance and charge me for it sooner or later.

[nsmitchell]

I may be wrong on this, but I thought we had 100K miles before a tune up. What the hell is this crap they are trying to pull?

Does your car still perform properly with decent MPGs?

Dealer$hip$ do love the $ervice package$ though.

[vacantj]

I thought it was 100K before any service but the guy at the dealer said that there is a 30K service.. So not sure about the 100K service rumor?

[slvryaris]

I am sure those are things that you can do yourself and if they tell you it will void your warranty if they dont do it then they are full of it. Unless you blow something up.

[Kioshi]

If it worries you much, and its seems like a scam....go to a reliable third-party repair shop. I know I will be doing this because mine are reliable, just only thing is...they dont use synthetic oil for oil changes and replace old filters w/cheap filters.....

[Black Yaris]

If it worries you much, and its seems like a scam....go to a reliable third-party repair shop. I know I will be doing this because mine are reliable, just only thing is...they dont use synthetic oil for oil changes and replace old filters w/cheap filters.....

what are you talking about? I don't know of one shop in my shit as town of Toledo that changes oil, that the minimun is sinthetic blend, and full synthetic is avalible everywhere..... what island do you live on where there is no synthetic oil?

[PetersRedYaris]

The throttle body service is an easy DIY. Air filter sensor??? Do they mean mass airflow sensor (MAF) cleaning? This can also be done yourself... Just research it, their both very easy with the correct cleaners.

[nsmitchell]

what are you talking about? I don't know of one shop in my shit as town of Toledo that changes oil, that the minimun is sinthetic blend, and full synthetic is avalible everywhere..... what island do you live on where there is no synthetic oil?

Dude, most shops in my area use conventional oil by default as well as the cheapest filters known to man. Engine problems ARE their bread and butter you know. 3000 mile conventional oil changes are also money in the bank for them.

[whooppee777]

:thumbdown: thats bullshit they're overcharging you. especially since u can do it yourself

[Kioshi]

thanks for the back-up nsmitchell ^_^. Black Yaris ya gotta understand.....each state's different and each state's got their own way of doign things. And not to be racist or anything...even though the majority of my friends consist of asians......

Theres A LOT of asians opening up repair shops where I live...and if theres one thing you know about them, its this: they'll use whatever inexpensive method to get the money they need and make it somewhat half-assed decent work on a car, boat, or anything. Trust me, they wouldnt want to waste their money using synthetic oil on cars THEY dont drive or care about~

Nonetheless....that repair shop saved me from other corrupt repair shops so...there still pretty good. I may end up doing oil changes myself to go synthetic.

[Toyota Technician]

i do a throttal body service EVERY 15 k on all my vehicles due to carbon buildup mostly because of the crappy gas now days, carbon is a byproduct of the combustion engine their is nothing u can do to prevent it and yes it is maintance. carbon stops up ur iac valve that may cause a searching idle condition and sometimes a no idle condition also a throttal body service helps the engine overall preform better it is also very easy to do yourself as for the air filter senser they are talking about cleaning the mass air flow senser are dealer does not even sell this serivice but keeping t clean can only help the maf read more accurate u can by the cleaner at a part store also.

the only way ANY car manufacture can void a warrenty is to directly prove ur modification or in this cace what u didnt buy caused the failure directly without a dought so in my opinion no thay cannot void ur warrenty.

are cars have 100k plugs and 100kish coolent depnding on conditions where u live.
sorry for the long post lust wanted to give accurate info

[jaggurnaut]

Sorry for disappearing (internet problems). Got the 30K service + Throttle body cleanup and MAF cleanup for $400 at the only toyota dealer for 50 miles in this backwaters of West Virginia (just moved here from Chicago). Donno any reliable third party service centers and dont even have a place to do DIY services 'cos i live in an apartment with gravel road-side parking. So I am eating it for now. I envy all you guys with your 'garages' and 'driveways'.

[Pavel Olavich]

Sorry for disappearing (internet problems). Got the 30K service + Throttle body cleanup and MAF cleanup for $400 at the only toyota dealer for 50 miles in this backwaters of West Virginia (just moved here from Chicago). Donno any reliable third party service centers and dont even have a place to do DIY services 'cos i live in an apartment with gravel road-side parking. So I am eating it for now. I envy all you guys with your 'garages' and 'driveways'.

You got scammed! If you look at your maintenence schedule booklet, and if what the dealer says cannot be reconciled to it, then it is probably not necessary. Did they fix a problem? Was your car problem free when you took it there? You got screwed....if you paid with a credit card, place the charge on hold and put it in dispute....then negociate with the dealer for a much lower price.

Don't be so foolish next time...

[contraband831]

what are you talking about? I don't know of one shop in my shit as town of Toledo that changes oil, that the minimun is sinthetic blend, and full synthetic is avalible everywhere..... what island do you live on where there is no synthetic oil?

Dude, there are repairs shops out here that do oil change + filter for like $10-$15, use the cheapest brands they can find to drive in business for other repair work in the future. Kioshi and I live in Cali, i am sure we have a good supply of synthetic oils on hand at these repair shops, but thats where they get you they price synthetic oils as if they were liquid gold. Toyota Dealerships out here are the same $20-$30 oil changes and they use conventional oils, we should all move to toledo for the royal treatment:smile:
, but back to the question at hand, most of the repairs they offer are an easy way to get some money from you, i would go to a good repair shop and pay half the price, for the same service they are recommending.

[YarisTom73]

Like Pavel said, if it isn't in the maintenance schedlue that came with your car originally, then it simply can't void your warranty. There are two maintenance schedules: the Toyota one, written by and for Toyota, which will preserve the life of your car, and then there is the dealership's recommendations, which are specifically designed to ilk your hard-earned cash away from you. There is nothing that your dealership can do as long as you follow the Toyota factory maintenance recommendations. Easy as pie. :biggrin:

[fnkngrv]

You got scammed! If you look at your maintenance schedule booklet,


Talking about the schedule book....mine got ruined....anyone know if a PDF for it? I am not really concerned with the warranty stuff as I have a good rapport with the dealer here. I just want to know what the schedule is...thanks in advance if anyone has anything.

[churp]

i do a throttal body service EVERY 15 k on all my vehicles due to carbon buildup mostly because of the crappy gas now days, carbon is a byproduct of the combustion engine their is nothing u can do to prevent it and .....

Maybe a stupid question but.....I thought only incoming air goes thru the throttle body or MAF sensor???? Not sure where the engine bypass vent tube goes (think it's downstream of the TB and MAF also) but the oil trap DIY would stop most of that. So aren't we really talking of the crap buildup from what gets thru the air filter....so cleaning is rare necessity with proper air filter replacement????

Edit: Hate to say it but having an oiled K&N filter would possibly add contaminates!

[Toyota Technician]

only incoming air goes through ur maf but incoming air and recirculated air goes through ur tb. the pcv system (positive crankcase ventilation) recirculates blowby gas's, the gas's that pass the piston rings on all cars with a combustion engine witch contain carbon then are recirculated through the crankcase, eventually to the valve cover then are dumped back into the intake boot befor the throttal body and in turn clogs the tb. Have u ever wonderd why ur oil turns black well that is the main reason.

i dont see no reason y a oil catch can would stop particulant matter from passing through to the intake unless it has a dense filtering material in it?

a airfilter does not catch all particulant matter it only filters down to so many microns then anything smaller goes right through the af so y couldn't the maf get dirty and knowing that a maf sensor is a variable resistance type of sensor if their was dirt or anything els on the maf could that not change ur resistance value and cause the maf the read incorectly.

[Spades]

welcome to the world of auto maintanence...every place you go will reccomend fluid flushes/replacements, filter changes, and fuel injection or carberator cleaning services.

go down to autozone, shucks, napa,ect and buy a air filter...there is your air filter service.

next, dont do the fuel injection or throttle body cleaning s--t unless you have been running s--t gas and your car is running poorly. fuel injection cleanings cause more problems than they fix half the time. the addatives they put in the gas can break debris loose and lodge them in a injector, and the injection flushes normally burn out cataletic converters...they are bad news.

every deal, private mechanic, oil change place, ect, will try to take you for every cent you have. I know, i have worked for quicklubes and dealerships and private companies for about 7 years now...they are all the same...at least the service writers/salesman/owners/managers/whoever is telling you what your car needs.

you have to find someone you trust, and even then you have to be carefull.

P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.

[churp]

only incoming air goes through ur maf but incoming air and recirculated air goes through ur tb. the pcv system (positive crankcase ventilation) recirculates blowby gas's, the gas's that pass the piston rings on all cars with a combustion engine witch contain carbon then are recirculated through the crankcase, eventually to the valve cover then are dumped back into the intake boot befor the throttal body and in turn clogs the tb. Have u ever wonderd why ur oil turns black well that is the main reason.

i dont see no reason y a oil catch can would stop particulant matter from passing through to the intake unless it has a dense filtering material in it?

a airfilter does not catch all particulant matter it only filters down to so many microns then anything smaller goes right through the af so y couldn't the maf get dirty and knowing that a maf sensor is a variable resistance type of sensor if their was dirt or anything els on the maf could that not change ur resistance value and cause the maf the read incorectly.


The blowby gasses are carbon rich true...but mainly oil picked up by the hot gasses as they go thru the oil coated rings or thru the valve seals. One of the posts on the oil catch can stated a sizable quantity of oil collected in 500miles!

Oil was the main air filtering agent for the 1st half century of the automobile (until the mid 50's) along with a metal screen that kept the bugs and rocks out of the carburator....not nearly as effective as todays filters, but they worked.

Basically I'm just stating that an oil catch can and the largest area, smallest micron filter you can use could "reduce" the need to clean the MAF or TB. I've driven cars with well over 200K on them that ran fine and never had them cleaned...preventive maintenence is key.

[WMERCERECU77]

At 30K go to Advance auto or other part store, buy a red and white metal can of seafoam fuel system cleaner. Pour 1/4 cup of it into a shallow dish and suck it up a little at a time through your brake booster hose or other vacuum hose through the throttle body. Cut the car off. Wait 15 minutes and start the car and white out the whole neighborhood with a now very clean throttle body. Pour the rest in the tank.

:thumbup: Pour a whole can in your tank every oil change.

[Toyota Technician]

P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.[/QUOTE]


your right dirt will not magicaly get through your a/f,particulant matter WILL pass through ur a/f ,ANY a/f will have some particulant matter pass through af's only filter down so far just like oil filters, c'mon u guys dont really think that a a/f that filters down to 10-15 microns is going to catch particulant matter that is 5 microns (same for oil filters). if u can go 30k befor u change
ur af u must be in some clean air,here where i live if u get 10-12 k ur lucky so alot of this has to do with where u live.

also i wouldnt always go by ur manual, the yaris surrpost to be 100k coolent well i have tested coolent at 50-60 k and only have 0 degree protection it is a must to have at lest -32 degree protection WHERE I LIVE everywhere will be different.

good quality throttal body cleaner(bg) will not harm ur catalist in any way.

NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc.

and since were throwing out numbers how about ase certified, toyota certified, ford certified, nashville auto deisel college grad-associates degree and numerous other certifications in auto and deisel (actually over 100)

so i know what i am talking about

[churp]

......NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc......

I agree, but.....IMO they follow the book because they're liable if they don't. I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty, check antifreeze every fall, keep track of every drop of gas (to insure gas mileage doesn't change drastically), etc. I don't clean the TB or rotate tires unless I see or feel a problem...and then I would do it myself, paying someone to do it on a regular schedule (if it aint broke....), to me is not cost effective. Try to tell a manufacturer that his syn oil or extended life antifreeze claims are bogus.

[Pavel Olavich]

...I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty...

It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.

[churp]

It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.

I agree with you Pavel...looks aren't a good judge of oil. I change every 5k because I'm looking for this car to reach retirement (I'll have at least 150k on then, 5 to 6 years), and I won't judge people wrong for going 15k between oil changes. I just don't think the Throttle body requires regular service (just like carburators didn't) until the performance shows it's needed. I've driven too many FI cars for 200k without the TB causing any problems.

[Pavel Olavich]

I agree with you Pavel...looks aren't a good judge of oil. I change every 5k because I'm looking for this car to reach retirement (I'll have at least 150k on then, 5 to 6 years), and I won't judge people wrong for going 15k between oil changes. I just don't think the Throttle body requires regular service (just like carburators didn't) until the performance shows it's needed. I've driven too many FI cars for 200k without the TB causing any problems.

Agreed...to service the throttle body at 15k seems scamish to me, unless the technician can show proof that the service is required, and since it is not even in the scheduled maintenence record, it should be covered free under warranty by Toyota.....only a fool would pay for that service, and so bloody soon in the life of the car.

[GabL]

Just took the car for the 32K service at the dealer yesterday, they checked the brake and said they have to lube it as it is dry?? Comes to $106 for front and rear brakes, on top of the $105 32K service... asked the service advisor why need to work on the brakes, as it is only 32K, he said it needs to be done on all the Yaris. Is this true? But after the service, the E brake is much tighter, as before, I need to pull it all the way up to secure the car, but now, I only need to go about half way.

[ttufrosty]

I have yet to hit 30000 miles, but will probably be there in a month.

When I was at my dealership yesterday getting a part replaced under warranty (side light) the service rep reminded me that my 30k service was coming up. Didnt mention a throttle body cleaning, but did tell me it would involve flushing my coolant, transmission gear oil, and change my oil. All for the low low price of $542.00. Considering I can do both of those on my own for a tenth of the cost, I just nodded my head so I could get my car and leave.

Continuing my rant on service reps, the part I had to replace yesterday was the side blinker on the quarter panel. The plastic clip had busted and they had ordered the part to replace it. So I go in the manager does a write up and tells me he has to have it taken into the garage and have a technician do a replacement. Basically unclip the busted light and clip in the new one. 1 to 2 minute job at best. 45 minutes later I was finally getting my car. So when he goes off and tells me about this $542 tune up that I needed you can get the idea that I didnt care.

One other thing, doest our MAINT REQUIRED light go off every 5,000 miles. If I remember correctly that is what it is set at. When I go to my local dealership, their big service required board lists the service requirements of having the oil changed every 3k miles. So even though the car and Toyota would have us change our oil at 5k the dealership wants 3k. Again another example of dealerships trying to scam uneducated people out of money.

Sorry for the off topic rant, just needed to vent.

[ChinoCharles]

You know, you guys with higher mileage Yarii should be doing some self service DIY's so the rest of us know what we have to do to save hundreds by skipping Toyota service departments.

[ttufrosty]

I plan on doing a DIY on a manual transmission gear fluid change as soon as my Redline mt90 shows up. Other than that let me know what type of stuff you want and when I change it out I will make sure to take pics and all.

[ChinoCharles]

Tranny fluid, brake fluid... anything! I've never done any of this stuff, but bet your ass I'll be trying it for the first time on the hatch.

[ttufrosty]

I am the same way, never done it before, but I plan on doing everything on my own. Having this site provide the factory manual helps out tremendously.

[Black Yaris]

we can do your trans next time you are out this way Chino, I have everything here... plus you can buy Redline, Royal Purple or Amsoil with in 2 miles of my house :)

I do have a question, since we have a hydrolic clutch, I asume it has fluid as well, anyone know how to change that? I would like to swap that over to synthetic as well to see if there is a change

[socko]

I just Seafoamed my wife's car - it's really great stuff. 6 or 7 ounces in the throttle body (use vacuum line to PCV valve to suck it out or the can or out of a cup), one ounce per gallon in fuel, and about 1/3 - 1/2 can in oil about 20 or 30 miles just before an oil change. Don't know if it is necessary at 30000 miles but some people do it alot more often than that. I plan on Seafoaming every vehicle I own at at least 60000 miles. Seafoam comes in 16 oz. cans at most auto parts stores. Caution: after doing the throttle body, wait about 10 minutes then restart the car - you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).

[ttufrosty]

What do you do at 11:00 pm on a Saturday night? Why change your manual transmission oil!

So, I got bored and decided it was time to change the tranny oil. I ended up using Royal Purple Max-Gear 75w-90. Besides stopping to take pictures (DIY coming soon) it was really pretty easy. 2 quarts of oil out, 2 quarts in. Before I changed the oil I drove around the block to warm up the oil for easier removal, and the gears were grinding a bit, a problem I have had for awhile. After putting in the new oil. It is hard to describe how smooth the changes are. I am looking forward to Monday morning and my normal work commute to really see the difference.

As I said I will put up a DIY sometime this week to help others out. Honestly, it is almost as easy as changing the normal motor oil.

[SDsurfrider]

Nice! I can't wait for the DIY! I am at the 20k mark so I am getting prepared for the next level maintenance type stuff.

[uncleyaris]

tt can't wait!!

[drifto]

you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).

be careful with that fuel injector stuff guys, it heats the living crap out of your catalytic converter. its best to let it idle out for a while before you take off and hit high rpm. could set a misire code too (misfires are what overheats and kills your catalyic converter)

also our hydraulic clutch takes dot3 brake fluid. the clutch master cylinder works similarly to the brake master clyinder, thus same fluid.