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Old 06-10-2009, 02:53 PM   #1
firebird1999us
 
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Unhappy Got rust in a stone chip on my hood...

I bought some Langka a few months ago and plan on applying it, but am concerned about how to go about removing the small rust spot...it's maybe the size of a matchstick. I've got some 2000-2500 grit sandpaper at the house -- is this the best way to go about removing the rust?
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:59 PM   #2
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You should be able to find a fiberglass pencil at any auto or electronics parts store. I need to do the same thing for a chip on my door.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:04 PM   #3
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Yep, I agree that a fiberglass pencil is the way to go. Using sandpaper will work, but you'll make the area needing attention bigger in the process.

If you can find it, 3M made a paint-pen filled with a rust converting "paint". The "paint" was pretty thin and dried to a glossy black finish. I used this under touch-ups and didn't have any long-term problems with the repairs.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:10 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice on the fiberglass pencil

When you guys fill stone chips do you mix clear with the factory paint or apply it on top?

Does a 2009 yaris even have a clear coat?

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Old 06-11-2009, 02:32 PM   #5
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I don't think any cars use a single stage system anymore. I think it's all basecoat/clearcoat.
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Old 06-12-2009, 11:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerFlosser View Post
I don't think any cars use a single stage system anymore. I think it's all basecoat/clearcoat.
So in other words just apply the base and then add clear, right? Does it matter what type of clear or is clearcoat clearcoat?
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:34 PM   #7
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I'm pretty sure the yaris doesn't have a clear coat. Just sand with the 2000 after painting and then do a nice wax job.
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose View Post
Yep, I agree that a fiberglass pencil is the way to go. Using sandpaper will work, but you'll make the area needing attention bigger in the process.

If you can find it, 3M made a paint-pen filled with a rust converting "paint". The "paint" was pretty thin and dried to a glossy black finish. I used this under touch-ups and didn't have any long-term problems with the repairs.
Does this 3M "paint" have a rust neutralizer in it?
EDIT:

Seems 3M Rust Avenger has been discontinued... This blog has some other rust converting options listed. I think I'm going to try Loctite Extend.
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:40 PM   #9
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I believe Rust Avenger did have a neutralizer, although it has been a while.

Langka and other products like it (my dealer sold me a no-name equivalent) work pretty well. Once you get the hang of the Langka, you really won't need to do the separate basecoat/clearcoat process.

Don't overcomplicate the touchup process and you'll get pretty good results.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose View Post
I believe Rust Avenger did have a neutralizer, although it has been a while.

Langka and other products like it (my dealer sold me a no-name equivalent) work pretty well. Once you get the hang of the Langka, you really won't need to do the separate basecoat/clearcoat process.

Don't overcomplicate the touchup process and you'll get pretty good results.
Yeah, i think I just want to neutralize, paint it up, wet-sand, and wax.
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Old 06-18-2009, 03:58 PM   #11
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CLR worked for me... After that just retouch with the pen.
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