SS Brake Line + Brake Pad + Rotor Installed~

[dallas]

I have to agree with Loren on this one, if you slot and cross drill a basically stock rotor you reduce the mass of the rotor, which in-turn gives you less of a heat sink.
There is no off gassing of new compound pads, the slots may help with brake dust evacuation, but thats about it. When you see a slotted and drilled pad on an exotic sports car, they have made sure to also have enough rotor mass to allow a big enough heat sink for the type of driving being encountered. I would focus on new brake fluid, A Racing specific or Dot 5.1 for street applications and get good pads and stainless lines.
Cheers.

Originally Posted by Loren

I'm not going to argue with you guys, but I'll tell you that I take most of my information from reliable sources. I consider a brake system engineer who also has experience building race cars and racing is pretty high on my list of reliable sources for brake info.

Here's what James Walker (I'm pretty sure he knows more about brakes than any of the rest of us do) has to say about brake rotors:
http://www.teamscr.com/motorsports/t...or-rotors.html

[silver_echo]

i am curious for those of you that have the slotted rotors or know more than i do about them... which is better? oriented to have the slots come out from under the pad during forward motion from in to out or from out to in? why? just wanted to ask because i am planning new brakes for my car this summer, and was wondering which way i should index them...

[arcticvitz]

Originally Posted by HTM Yaris

I have to agree with Supmet . D/S rotors do dissipate heat better . More air to more surface area = more cooling . Thats the whole theory behind vented rotors . As far as D/S rotors chewing up pads like cheese graters , false . For your rotors to be grated there would have to be a trailing edge that is raised . ( Go check your kitchen drawer ) . Carbotech pads will decrease the life of your rotors simply b/c they are harder and will grind away more material . Carbotech pads do take longer to heat up which in turn helps the seals in your calipers from melting and also helps to keep your brake fluid from boiling as quickly .

Cracks form from a combination of circumstances . The main one being from a manufacturing defect . When you cast anything , it is virtually impossible to obtain an even thickness throughout . Combine this defect with some heat and poor braking habits and viola ...a crack will raise its ugly head . If there is one crack ( from hole to hole ) that rotor is still usable but you would be wise to monitor for more cracks . I've seen many people do this ( On track ) . If a crack extends from hole to hole to hole , then you need to trash that rotor . If a crack extends from the outer hole to the outer edge then you will get a cheese grater effect from the warpage that will follow .

Speaking about on track , I have used the R-1 rotors on track ( against R-1's advice) and they work pretty darn good . The last time I went to Roebling Road . We did 100 + consecutive laps . The Yaris did come in the pits for driver changes but the car never shut off . We experienced no brake problems . Actually the Pros who drove my car said the brakes were surprisingly good . ( I'll get to my secret in a minute ) . We tried our darndest to find a flaw anywhere in the car . The only one we found was lack of power . But the R-1's did glaze up in the mountains . Which is why I bought new rotors from brake warehouse . The R-1's are still good but just wanted to try something else .

My brake setup is as follows : Toyota pads , Brake Warehouse rotors , SS lines and ATE Blue fluid . Check the pics below . On the car are the BW rotors . On the ground are the R-1 rotors . Check out the differences . The R-1's have bigger holes and slightly longer slots . The R-1's also have the hole closer to the outer edge . The BW rotors have 2 rows of holes between the slots . The BW have a powder coated hub/hat . The R-1's were zinc plated in its entirety . Both have pointed end slots .

The things I don't like about the R-1's are that they took longer to bed in b/c on the zinc plating and they glazed in the mountains ( after turning a pretty shade of blue ) . With a good bit of fade

What I like about the BW rotors is that there are more holes , albeit smaller than the R-1's , and the holes are not so close to the outer edge . I also like the powder coating on the hub/hat area . The rust doesn't "bleed" through like they do on the R-1's . I've gotten these rotors a nice crimson color in the mountains with no adverse affects Just a tiny bit of fade .

Now for my trick . Notice the R-1s . The one on the right is how everybody else installs their rotors . The holes are slanted towards the rear of the car . The one on the left are slanted towards the front of the car . My theory is that with the holes slanted forward it allows the outer edge to cool first after leaving the pad area thereby producing more consistent results after repeated use . The pros who have driven my car all say the can't believe how consistent my brakes are especially with stock pads . Then I point out my rotor orientation and they go "Hmm interesting" .

6 hours have elapsed since I started this reply to the time I posted . ( GF's Mini broke and I had to go and fix it , Tranny and flat tire ) So I probably missed a few replies .

Nice write up! Seems like the people that track their cars have no problems while others choose to speak from what they've "heard".

[CB900F2]

AlainMikli.. Hows your long term results of the SS lines been like?... I am in the works of pickup a set myself..

thanks for your feedback..

[cali yaris]

People that know better than me say that it doesn't matter at all which way the slots are oriented. The slots are to keep the pad surface clean and "cut", not to help cool the rotor.

[jaytown]

Does any one know who has the Goodridge brakelines in stock?

[ozmdd]

Not going to get into the drill/not drilled debate, but I can tell you from a physics standpoint, the drilled rotors will have less braking surface area, and less mass to absorb heat. The holes will not cool the inner rotor any faster, as the front rotors are already vented at the perimeter.
The rotor will have less rotational mass if it is drilled/slotted.

[cali yaris]

jaytown, I have Agency-Power lines in stock.

[kngrsll]

supposedly the slots help vent trapped gasses as well...

im curious to know what these do... iknow they work, and work very well. hell, it may just be a pure marketing thing. but if this isnt car porn, i dunno what is:

[CB900F2]

Hi Cali...

I am wanting to pickup a set of SS lines for my Yaris also.. Not sure if this is a fair question, but how does Agency-Power lines compair to Goodridge??

I do not know who agency is and their back ground in the brakeline business..

thanks Cali..

Originally Posted by cali yaris

jaytown, I have Agency-Power lines in stock.