New Yaris !

[Yarisagos]

Hey guys,

Just got my Yaris, its a meteorite metallic. I wanted the blazing blue, but the sales manger went nuts on me and told me take this car home now for -200 invoice or wait 6 weeks for the blue and for more money, they won! I hate those guys, lol.

I done my home work, well i hope so. Please check my data for any errors and better ideas.

My stock wheels are 15" steel, tires-P185/60r15 84T, Bridge Stone.
I am guessing wheels weight at 16 lbs and tires 17 lbs.

My new rims are Sportmax 001 weight in at 20.5 lbs.

New tires are Falken Ziex Ze 512, 205/40R17 weight in at 17.6 lbs.

Stock weight is 33 lbs total.
New setup comes in at 38.1 lbs total.

Does the 5.1 Lbs make a big difference ?
I try going to 16" wheels but it only lower it by 3 lbs.
Also i will be installing NF210 springs.
Anyone see anything wrong with my setup?
Thank you guys, your insight is greatly appreciated.

[largeorangefont]

It will be fine. You may notice a very slight performance difference but the tradeoff for better handling will be well worth it.

[HTM Yaris]

You need TRD shocks . Your stock shocks will NOT last very long . The stock shocks were designed for a certain amount of "travel" . When you put in new springs , you lessen the amount of travel . TRD shocks are valved differently ( more pressure ) to accomodate the drop in ride height .

If ya really want to save weight try Konig Heliums or Feathers . They come in 15x6.5 or try SSR's Comps (for gangsta's only :) ) Also if ya really want to save weight AMS has a 9 lb battery :) look under the photos page for Coryn and Yaris Rules for pics

[Yarisagos]

Originally Posted by HTM Yaris

When you put in new springs , you lessen the amount of travel.

Doesn't cutting the bump-stops, put the amount of travel back to normal?
If your new springs drops by 1 inch then cut off 1 inch off the bump-stops.

So far everything I have heard, this is the correct way to do it, unless i get corrected.

[PetersRedYaris]

Originally Posted by Yarisagos

Doesn't cutting the bump-stops, put the amount of travel back to normal?
If your new springs drops by 1 inch then cut off 1 inch off the bump-stops.

So far everything I have heard, this is the correct way to do it, unless i get corrected.

Your correct! The NF210 are soft enough with little drop so the stock shocks should last as most of the travel is maintained. I have NF210's with the bump stop cut 1 1/4 inch and am riding on 17x7 (38 offset) with 205/40/17. Total weight is 42 lbs./wheel but I loved the wheels. Performance loss is minimal (like it was ever there to begin with), but handling is vastly improved. You'll be good to go, Congrats on your purchase!

[HTM Yaris]

Yeah cutting the bumpstop works ... temporarily . The shocks will still wear out prematurely . The stock shocks are not valved stiff enough to keep the car off the bumpstops when lowered . The car is not made to ride on the bumpstops . Also cutting the bumpstops takes the shocks out of the effective range . That is why they will wear quicker . When your car starts to bounce , it will be time to change the shocks .

[Yarisagos]

Originally Posted by HTM Yaris

Yeah cutting the bump stop works ... temporarily . The shocks will still wear out prematurely . The stock shocks are not valved stiff enough to keep the car off the bumpstops when lowered . The car is not made to ride on the bumpstops . Also cutting the bumpstops takes the shocks out of the effective range . That is why they will wear quicker . When your car starts to bounce , it will be time to change the shocks .

Hmm...... I am trying to understand this. From what I see, cutting the bump-stops is going to do exactly the opposite of what you said.

When I install the new springs, i am going to compress the shocks by the amount of the new spring minus the stock spring.
In other words new springs drop will drop 1 inch, so the shocks are going to be compress by 1 inch more now.
By cutting the bump-stops by 1 inch, is going to decompress the shocks by 1 inch, in math terms its back to original length again.

Now this is the tricky part, the stock springs where design to run at a range with the stock shock, with the bump-stop being a certain size.
With the new springs, the shock is still going to be run at the same range because we modify the bump-stop.
Now this where its gets in the Grey area.

The stock springs are much more softer then the new springs, in other words.
You have a longer time to absorb the bump when you hit something. But the interesting thing this, the stock shocks are going worked harder with the stock springs then it will with the stiffer springs.
From what I see so far, the shocks are going to last longer with the new springs then it would of had with the soft springs, but the disadvantage of the new springs is, that if i hit something hard, I don't not have the same length of springs to slow me down, so big hits will be felt more and there where the damge can happen if i really hit something hard.
The ride of the new spring would be more noticeable because the spring is much stiffer then the stock ones.
Please don't make me repeat this. I am more confuse now, then I was before i wrote this, lol.

[SailDesign]

Yarisagos - don't try to understand - yet. Just be content with the fact that if cutting the bumpstops was all you had to do, they wouldn't need to sell shocks for lowered springs.

[Yarisagos]

Originally Posted by SailDesign

Yarisagos - don't try to understand - yet. Just be content with the fact that if cutting the bumpstops was all you had to do, they wouldn't need to sell shocks for lowered springs.

You always find something forsale, something better, something you must have, and something you need.
The fun part is deciding when to buy it and is it worth it.

[PetersRedYaris]

Originally Posted by HTM Yaris

Yeah cutting the bumpstop works ... temporarily . The shocks will still wear out prematurely . The stock shocks are not valved stiff enough to keep the car off the bumpstops when lowered . The car is not made to ride on the bumpstops . Also cutting the bumpstops takes the shocks out of the effective range . That is why they will wear quicker . When your car starts to bounce , it will be time to change the shocks .

HTM- Effective range? Correct me if I'm wrong , but, shocks don't have an effective range, they do the same thing from full extension to full compression. I understand shocks are valved to specific springs, but, running a strut one inch below it's stock height is still within its "effective range". The ride height is lowered one inch, but, because the bump-stop is cut one inch, the maximum up travel is increased one inch, therfore, total wheel travel is maintained.

If running mismatched springs and struts will ruin the struts, why are you running Sportivo struts with stock springs? Following your arguement, your stiffly valved struts will fail prematurly due to the increased travel of soft stock springs.

[PetersRedYaris]

Originally Posted by SailDesign

Yarisagos - don't try to understand - yet. Just be content with the fact that if cutting the bumpstops was all you had to do, they wouldn't need to sell shocks for lowered springs.

They don't "need to", the market wants them available. Lowering springs are a performance upgrade. Shocks/struts are a performance upgrade. To be most effective, they should be done together, but, don't ALWAYS need to be. If they HAD to be, why doesn't Tanabe make complimentary shocks for their springs? After all, if what your saying is true, all these aftermarket springs are worthless. The fact is, Tanabes are made to safely be used with the stock shocks, any lower and I agree, new struts/shocks are needed.

My main point is, with this moderate drop, the stock shock/struts will be fine.